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CANADA 



NATIONAL LIBRARY 








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MY 



CANADIAN JOURNAL 



1872-78 



EXTRACTS FROM MY LETTERS HOME 

WRITTHN WHII I- 

LORD DUFFER.N WAS GOVERNOR-GENERAL 



BY THE 

MARCHIONESS OF DIJFFERIN 



AUTHOR OF OUR V/CE- 



AND AVA 



REGAL Ulh- IN INDIA 






N R W YORK 
"• ^''PI-ETON AND COMPANY 

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151462 



Copyright, 1891, 
«v M. APPLETON AND COMPANY. 

All rights resen'fd. 



31462 



TO MV CANADIAN FRMONMS 

■Jins MITI.K BOOK 
»S AIFF.CT.O.NATKLY INSCR,„e„ 

H. L). Ji A. 










I'KICFACE. 



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I'l^EFACE. 



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PREFACE. 



VII 



\ 



many others, who, if they read these pages, will, I hope, 
remember that they relate but a quarter of the events 
and the pleasures of the years we spent in Canada, and 
give but a few of the names of those with whom we made 
enduring friendships, and with whom we worked and 
played and enjoyed our life in the Dominion. 

1 have also been sorry to pass so very lightly over 
the cordiality and the friendliness invariably shown us 
whenever we crossed our borders into the United States; 
for whether we were traveling officially through Chicago 
or Detroit, or went as ordinary visitors to New York or 
Boston, we were always received with a kindness and a 
hospitality which we can never forget. 

I must also say one word as to the silence on all 
political matters maintained in this Journal. I have not 
attempted to record in it any part of the business of the 
Covernor-General ; and it is only as they affected our 
movements^ or our social arrangements, that I have, 
even distantly, alluded to public events, and then, I fear, 
in a somewhat light and irresponsible spirit. 

The Cxtvernor-Cicneral and his wife belong to no 
party; and we met with such universal kindness from 
all persons with whom we came in contact in the Do- 
minioii, that I, at least, never wanted to remember that 
people (liffired from each other in their political views, 
and was only too glad to leave politics to those whom 
they necessarily concerned. 

IlAklOT DUKKF.RIN AND AVA. 
CLANDRBovr, Angust 1 8, 1891. 



i 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

ARRIVAL IN CANADA. 
Ji'NE-Arc.iJST, 1872. 
The Voyage— Reception at Quebec- River steamers on the St. 
Lawrence-Arrival at Ottawa-Rideau Hall— Household ar! 
rangements-ChaudicVe Fall-The Lachine Rapids-Quebec 
— PrivilefTCs of the Kings of France— Montmorency Falls— 
RivitVe du Loup— The />«»/«//>«- Cacouna— Tadousac— The 
Saguenay-Trout-fishing-My first entertainment in Canada 
—An early church— Canoeing and camping on the Marguerite 
River— Our first Cantidian salmon , 



PACK 



CHAPTER H. 

gUEHEC. 
AlTOl'ST-SEPTEMnER, 187a. 

The Citadel-Setting up house- Our first dinnc-r party— A picnic 
-"Mr. HrigRs "-Social dutics-The Ursulinc' Convent- 
Canadian songs-The local institutions— Receptions at the 
Convents-Ball given by La.ly Ilelleau-irniversitd Laval- 
The Stadacona Hunt-llall at the Citadel-Departure from 
Quebec .... 



30 



CHAPTER HL 

ONTARIO. 



September-Octoher, 1872. 
Toronto— Hainitlon— Grand reception at Toronl..-Niagara-The 
Falls-HulTalo-Drawing.room at Toronto— Woodstock— 



CONTENTS. 



London— Petrolia— Schools at Toionro_TJ,„ v . r.. 
CHAPTER IV. 

OTTAWA. 

November, i872-January. 1873 
Ottawa-Rideau Hall-Thankscivinfr Dav-Ti,„ r . ^- 

txcelluncy's v.sit to Montreal-Daily routine S u 

-Canadian celebrities-Frost-bitelra:^:';::;^.' 
below zero-Skating-Sleighing-Ncw Vear'f Day ". 

CHAPTER V. 

MONTREAL, 

January-Fkhruary, 1873 

<^iircX-B N™ ° VTf ~-7T^ '''"'-■^'"' "- 



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37 



48 



matches 



CHAPTER VI. 

OUR FIRST parliamentary SESSION. 

Fkhruary-May, 1873. 

ArranRcments for the season at Ottawa-Cal.inct dinner Onnn 

2;;f .•arlia.ent-The Hrawin^-roo-n-Treltri -,?: i 

nientary .I,n„ers-nall at Ridcau Ilall-Prince Edwlrd's 

Island jo„» the Dominion-Birth of a daughter . ' 

CHAPTER VH. 

ON THE ST, LAWRENCE. 
Jl'NK-Jut.V, 1873, 
Sir George Cartier -Quel.ec-Christening of ,he Queen's .od,.,,nd 
-V kcrcgaS function.-The Z>^.,./-T,dousac-.The Godbout 



59 



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R.ver-rhe Mmgan-Lulians in chapel-One of our men 
drowned_P.shing-Adayat sea-Gaspe- 7 V</..a..A. drh!" 
-Camp.ng out on the Dartmouth River-On the St r„hn- 
Not enough blankets !-A strange coincidence-l'ercc-Cur 
mghsh-l'aspediac-DalhouMc-Chalham-Newcastle 



CHAPTER VIII. 
THE MARITIME PROVIN'CES. 

July-August, 1873. 

!>, "'^'"'^''' ^- ^-—D'Huer at (.ovcrnment House— 
^^^r^, fecl.ng McNah-s Island -Lobster.spearing-,:L, 
DufTerm s spec., at the Club-Rail i„ .„e Parliament Build- 
ngs-Rall on H M. S. AV,./ .///../-Industrial homes-Hay 
of Fundy-St. John. N. B.-Hotel life-Toreh-light proces! 
s.on-I3all .n the theatre- Voyage „p the St. John River- 
l rcdencton-Woodstock-Grand Falls-Tadousac 



XI 



PACK 



83 



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59 



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71 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE FALL. 
Skptemher-Dkcemiier, 1873. 
Bathing at Tadousac-Quebec-Miss Florence Lees-Foo.ball- 



ona Races- 



Convents-Paper chase-Visitors-The Hladac., 
Pall at the Citadel-Montreal-O.tawn-Debate on the ad- 
clress-Resignal.on of Sir John Macdonald's cabinet-Curl 
>ng-Mr. Mackenzie, the new Premier-Christmas . 

CHAPTER X. 
OUR SECOND SEASON AT OTTAWA. 

Januarv-Ju' S74. 
The New Year's reccption-Tableflu.-Only ,0^ of frost --The 
i"Bti.ut.onsofOttawa-An ice storm-Concert-Montreal- 



123 



4l*j 



Xll 



CONTENTS. 






PAGE 



137 



CHAPTER XI. 

FISHING ON THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

JLNE-Ju-LY, 1874. 

Quebec-Gaspe-Mr. Reynolds's can.p on the York Riv.r n 

• • • -^56 

CHAPTER XH. 
ONTARIO AND THE LAKES. 
JULY-.SEPTEMIii:R, 1874 

Trois Riviires-Toronto-Rival hotels-Nowmarket R • 
Lake Simcoe-The Narrows.-Orilli;4"hh^. "'''■''" 
-Muskoka Lake-Bracebridge4 „ "7 n '"^ ''"''"^^ 

Parry Sound-CollingwoodJSw'n s" un \'Z"~^'''''''- 
<iians_SauIt Ste Marie M.VI '^"""^-^LinUouIin I„. 

a.e-Ca.npin,o.-;::^;:;r-;;;^;j;:fo^ po... 
thur's Landing-Indians 1/ c;h 1 , '"^'^'-I "nee Ar- 

Kiver-r.ake ?,iehi^rci:^^ :^«-:t'r^'^ 
House-Reception at ti.e Exehanee-Thr , , "'•"" 
shops-Dctroit-Sarnia-I akrT 'r'''^'''^^'-^-T''e 
works_Stratfo,d-r^ 1 h L- ""•"""-C^^^'erich-Salt 
Brantford-Tle sTx N f ~^>r ^^^«^P'--"'« Home- 
-Woodstoek^il.!!;^:^ ^,^^^ ^Wn. .r. 
•Swing hridire ovrr H„. v • ""coe— .St. Catherine's— 

riumt'sho'se-Toro , ^^'Tn J'^'^^-T'- Falls-A,, 

-Whitby-Port nZr 7. '" .'"""'"'^ ^'""^'' ■''' "'^ ^•■•"> 
Palrner'sDe f nd W 7~'""'"''''^-"^"-''''^-nr. 

i'eai and Dumb Institution— Kinirston—H,n,.i n 
—Home again a Ottawa "^'ngston— Uiockville 

• •••... 170 



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CONTENTS, 



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CHAPTER XIII. 

WINTER AND SPRING. 
Septemiier, i874-M.\y, 1875. 
The Dominion Rifle Match-New Vork-The theatres and parks 
-Lntertainments-Drive to '< Sleepy Hollow "-Lord Duf 
.enn goes to Washington-The Normal School-Nieht jour- 
ney to Boston-Longfellow's house -Club dinner- \ Uni 
yersalist Church-Return to Ottawa-The steeple chase- 

r'",°[!^^" ''''"' ^'^''^""'''^ Day-Chil.lren-s tableaux- 
Lord DufTenn s visit to Montreal-Curling- Debate on Kiel 
-B.rth and Christening of a son-Home on short leave- 
Delayed by ice and foL' . 

«' 217 

CHAPTER XIV. 
AN UNEVENTFUL SEASON. 

October, i875-jri,v, 1876. 

R. M. S /'/•;m/««-Ottawa-.Skating-A rainy Christmas Day- 

-Plays-Married w. Bachelors-Montreal-Ottawa-Open, 
ing of Parhament-Fancy dress balls-Theatricals-Ice block 
on the R.deau-Expedition up the Le U^vre-Quebec-After 
the fire-Lord Dufferin's speech-Procession of Jean Pnptiste 
-Gaspe-F.shmg on the York River-Archie's birthdav- 
His departure for school -Ottawa- Preparations for 'the 
Orand I our . 

• ■ 235 

CHAPTER XV. 

ACROSS THE CONTINENT AND ALONG THE PACIFIC COAST. 

August-Septemher, 1S76. 
Our special train-A reporte. and his request-Five o'clock tea 
-Ch.cago-Omaha-The Platte Valley-The Rocky Plains 
-Cheyenne-l he Alkali Plains-The Rocky Mountains- 
Ogden-Cape Hern-Traveling with a murderer-San Fran- 
Z,T~ll" ^'■"'."""^^-'^ Killyle.agh friend-ir. M. S. Am,-. 
%'x/--The Pac.fic-Esquimault-Victoria-Party feeling- 
Husy days-~Our Chinese cook and his wife-Recatta-N^ 
naimo-Bute Inlet-Sal. .y Harbor-Metlacatlah-Succcss- 



••f 



XIV 



CONTENTS. 



heavy mail °"« "''»"''»-Al=rt IJa,_B„„ard'. I„ta_A 



PACB 



257 



CHAPTER XVI 

BKITISH COLUMmA. CAL.KOKNIA. ANB SALT LAKE CITV. 
SEPTKMIiER-OCTODER, 1876 

A forest giant-New Westminster— A .nn. -i, • 

The Fraser River-Yale-Holl^ r T ""'"^ '""Kues- 

Lytton-rndian;r;ve-MrSr ; ;,t~K /"'"" '^^^°"- 

Wow-.-r>ownth'eTho.ps;'r !i-t:^^^^^^^^ 
—Strange servants— 15ill P. • ^e'"0"s"i>ve— Victoria 
day-At s^a-S,n V "'*'.'-^^^l"""-'^""~r>ry <lock-A busy 
""y At .s.a— ban Francisco— Good-bv to H M c ^ ., 
-A -Frisco merchants country house A r , r' '^'/"f ^•>'^' 
Giving names-The Thin ?u Cahfom.an ball- 

fa names— ine Chinese theatre— Toss Hou^p Tl,„ 
turnjourney— Salt Lalcf.r;»v \s J"^s "ouse— The re- 

Deaver-IIotel r ^'•y-^^"™°»«"cicty-Cheyen„e- 

Hotel manners-Oregon Bill-St. Louis-Toronto. 2,3 

CHAPTER XVH. 

OUR FIFTH WINTER AND SUMMER IN CANADA. 

October, 1876-JuLY, 1877. 

Toronto-Lord Dun-erin starts for Philadelphia-Montreal-Otta- 

tWHe?"^! ?«""■"?" ''^'"'■' '''^ service-Christmas fes- 

lyities-Toionto-Speeches-Ottawa-Theatricals-Presen- 

tation by.he cai,men-Procession in honor of Pope Leo XUT 

~D.^..ngu.shed v:sitois-Quebec-In camp-Fishing- r.: 

CHAPTER XVHL 

THE i^ORTH-WEST. 

At'Gl'ST, 1R77. 

■n '^r -St. T^aul-Minneapolis-Minnehaha Falls-Across 

^\;:T~:^^' River-Greetings on the way:!::^:: 
I.vi.-ti.' i I'.r r '7- '" ^'""'P<^R-"* Silver Heights "-An 
«'>^'" ^ ..lea of rdig a-St. Boniface-The Hudson'. Bay 



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store-Lassoing-Sioux Indians-J3all at Winnipeg-A Red 



XV 



P.AGK 



tie Stone Fort — Selkirk- Tv,^ i« i- 

"ii .Selkirk— X he Indian reserve— Winniiieir— 

SrTSnr'"''"""""^ -t,len.ent-A .en,ber of the ,1. 



• 338 



CHAPTKR XIX. 

MANITOHA. 

August-October, is-'y 

camp-On the Dawson route-A "cordun,y" road-The 
North-VVest Angle-Lake of the Woods-CaLeing on th 
W n^peg R.,er The White Dog Mission-Portao's-k 
fs~r/ 7^^ -r?'"-^" I"'iian grave-Lake Winnineg- 
"-^■CM-U,, Saskatchewan-The first railway n the 
Norh-Uest-Flour^S a bag --Stone Fort-Gimla thTl e 
land.c settle„,ent-VVinnipeg-An Indian " Lore'"-Lake" 

llr^^t :;t"T;"^::'^^"^^ '- PraiHe-?rodut 
lana— Want of good dnnking-water-Silver Ifoml,. tu 

. 366 

CHAPTER XX. 

OUR LAST SEASON AT ott ^ «r . 

'^^uiN Al OTTAWA AND MONTREAL. 

October, 1877-jtJNE, 1378. 
Earthquake-Christmas visitors-Pa.l accidonf T . 

-Visit to Montreal-The Windsor it:^HeS^ 

st.tution-Villa Maria Convent-Ball-McGill r^' 
Military display at the theatre-Conva , of he sl T~ 

-Mount Royal Park-Farewell dirner-^he I; wl .'"' 

r-ircweii acidress from both Housp« nf i> r 

Pita.. Mont::al-^ j:::?--:;^::^^:;^^-"' "- 

Ottawa-The children leave fur Lngia'nd ' "' '' 

** • • • '399 



*Ji 



PAGE 



XVI CONTEXTS. 



CHAPTER XXI. 
THE EASTERN TOWNSHII'S. AM) LAST DAYS IN CANADA. 
JlNK-AU(UJST, 1878. 

Gaspe-" Tinker "-Riots at Qi.ebec-Our rooms occupied by 
soldiers-Island of Orleans-Farewell address from the gue- 
bee Parliament— Visit to Hoston-A New England home- 
A literary dinner parly- Lord DulTerin takes his <ugrec at the 
Harvard University— I ongfellow— Mr. Adams-guebee-A 
fcg on the St. I.awrencc-FishiiiK on the Metapcdiac-Run 
to Campliel! Town-Kininuski-Hic-Fisliing-I.ast visit to 
ladousac-The 12th of J„ly-The Maine Press Assoeiatioi, 
— Sillery— The Roman Catholic bishops— Sir Edward Thorn- 
ton's visit— Theatricals on the Island of Orleans— The Mont- 
niorency Falls-Expedition to the Ciiaudit^re Falls— Danville 
— Sherbrooko— LennoxviJic— Eake Massiwippi—Compton— 
Stanslead— Lake MemphremagoR-MaRO(r—nolton— Water- 
loo-Granby— St. Jolin's-I.ake Champlain-Lake George- 
Juvenile coachman at Fort I Icnry-Good-by . . . .jg 

I...K1. I)t'i.|.ERiN'.s Last Days in Canada . . . . ^50 

Index 

453 



PAGE 



MV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



1872-1878. 



419 
450 

453 






CIIAl'TKR I. 

ARRIVAI, IN CANADA. 

U»( ! horrul! Very nu„.h; everybody ill c^^cem the 
wretched baby. Hasil, who is perfectly well, but can ^ 
no <.ne to dress him. and is handed about, unwashed, to 
cnKMU-ers. waiters, to any one who can stand 

.JW,/r. /;//..--Thc ship rollin^r f^.m side to side till 
one s back aches. Such a noise of splashin.^ an.l dash 
n^K and alhn, about, and such fears lest n>y infants 
should follow the exan.ple of my toothbrush. Ll c me 
fly.n, across the roon. ! To add to mv fears tw, stee ! 

whether he thought there was any danger, and if the 
capta,n m.ght not he asked to put inu. por; t.ntil Z 
came calmer In the morning these men were found 
sleepu)).! with life-I)elts on. 

ir,:/„r.u/ay, /p,M. -We are nun I, better now. and „uite 
-^|y our meals, which I), and I have in a cabin by :;::;! 

We are also able to look about, and f.n.l that there 
are .07 "^street Arabs " o„ board, brought out by a Ilu 



MY CANADIAX JOURNAL. 



CH. I 



of a woman, who, although very sick and miserable her- 
self, sings to them, reads out loud, goes down into the 
steerage, sees th( ni to l)ed, and pcrfornis many other try- 
ing offices in the most unselfish manner. Miss Mac- 
pherson pays her own passage and expenses. Each child 
costs ^'lo to bring out, and will eventually be adopted 
into a Canadian family, where it will have a hapjiy home. 
This seems to be an excellent charity. 

Suihiay, 2j(L~\ beautiful day— a hot sun and a per- 
fectly calm sea. ( )ur parasols and sh.-tdy hats have come 
out for the first time, and Ilermic and Masil* are being 
made very mucii of by the convalescent passengers. 
Preparations are making for our arrival at (Quebec; and, 
as it has been discovered that there is no Canadian flag 
on board, my maid, Nfrs. Dent, is busily engaged in try- 
ing to manufacture one. Nobody is (piite sure what it 
is, but all sup|)ose that there must be a beaver and a 
maple-leaf in it. J sincerely hope that no great herald 
will l)e waiting to receive us. 

We have attended a meeting in the steerage, where 
some of the Canadian passengers talked to the emigrants 
about the cdiintry they are going to. I ), also si)okc, and 
told them that in Canada they need never complain, as 
he had heard one of tluin do, "that he had too many 
children," for that there the more they had the better. 
An enthusiastic young man on hearing this slapjied I), 
on the back and said, •' 'I'hut is just what I have been 
telling Kmily." 

{)iti'/>,r : Tni'sih\\ jj;f/i.—A lovely morning. We anch- 
ored early, but did not land till ten, when the Minis- 
ters, I.ieutenant-Covernor, and several other officials, 
came on board, and with them we went ashore, A salute 
was fired from the citadel as I), stepped on land, and we 



• My youngeitt children. 



CH. I 

icrable hcr- 
rtii into the 
y other try- 
Miss Mac- 
Each child 
)c adopted 
ippy home;. 

and a pcr- 
have come 
' arc hcinj^ 
)asscnjfers. 
cbec ; and, 
ladian (lajj 
^cd in try- 
re wiiat it 
ver and a 
cat herald 

i^e, where 
cmiirraiUs 
spoke, and 
mplain, as 
too many 
hi! better, 
lapped I), 
liavc been 

We anch- 

he Minis- 

' oflficials, 

A salute 

(I, and we 



JUNE 1872 A/^R/VAL AT QUEBEC AXD OTTAiyA. % 

walked through lines of troops to a carriagc-and-four, in 
which we drove to Spencer Wood, the I.ieutenant-(;ov- 
ernor's residence. We passed through (Quebec, up a very 
steep hill. The road was rough, a.id it was extremely hot 
and dusty. I could not see the view as we were driving 
away from the river, and also, I was much occupied in 
looking at the people who filled the streets; but when 
we got to Spencer Wood we were charmed with it. and it 
looks right down upon the St. Lawrence. At three 
o'clock I), was sworn in as (lovernor-Ckneral of Canada 
and received some addresses of welcome,— but, as I re-' 
mained (piiet in my country retreat. I can tell vou noth- 
lug of the ceremony. Our host is Sir Narcisse' Jielleau • 
Ins wife is a nice .piiet little Erenchwoman. and he is 
pleasant and kind. Ihere was a dinner in the evening _ 
but 1 dont feel that I have seen enough of any of the 
guests t.. tell you about them to-dav. except that the 
I'rime Minister, Sir John Macdonald, is the image of 
Dizzy. 

mufnvsday, ^^M.-'I'he papers give a most amusing 
description of I)., stating his apparent weight and height 
I ant very flatteringly described, though the ignorant 
male writer speaks slightingly of my dress as being a 
"plan, blue silk," whereas it was in reality excessively 
smart, and had cau.sed me infinite trouble and anviety » 
Ib.wever. I had the satisfaction of hearing from l.ady 
Il.irriet Kletcher * that the ladies knew better, and had 
appreciated it. 

Lady Harriet and I had a drive about the old town 
and r was (piite delighted with it. The views are per- 
fntly lovely, and it w.Mild be su, h a charming place to 
lue in,— if only we had a house here ! 



* IiauKiiitr of the Enrl of Komnuy, wifu of I,„rU Duflcrin's MilU 
tary nccrelary, 



MY CANADIAN /OURNAL. 



CH. I 



In the afternoon we started fur Ottawa in a magnifi- 
cent river-steamer witii four stories and streets of cab- 
ins, and a grand table a'/idtc on board. We sat on deck 
and enjoyed ourselves immensely as we went up the St. 
Lawrence. 1 can not tell you what a lovely voyage this 
was'— so lovely that I can ncU beh ve that we did it of 
necessity, and not for pleasure only. 

T/iiiisday, 2yili.—\\Q arrived at Ottawa, the first view 
of which is magnificent ; l)ut once landed there was no 
time to look at anything ! There were nine addresses 
to l)e listened to, antl after them we drove off to our 
new home! . . . We have been so very enthusiastic 
about everything hitherto that the first sight of Rideau 
Hall did lower our spirits just a little! 'J'he road to it 
is rough and ugly, the h()use api)ears to me to be at the 
land's end, and there is no view whatever from it, though 
it is near the river— and we have come through hundreds 
of miles of splendid scenery to get to it ! Then I have 
never lived in a (iovernnunt House before, and the in- 
evitable bare tables and ornameniless raoms have a de- 
pressing effect : for the first time I realize that I have 
left my own home for many years.-and this is its sub- 
stitiite! 

/V/./r/v, -JiW/.—l'lcase forget the ahf)ve growl. The 
morning has brought m )re cheerlul rellections. We 
are not intended to live here at midsummer, and I dare 
say that in winter this place looks lovely ! Our hou.se 
is, they say, very warm and comfortable, and the Houses 
of I'arliament— which, after all. I do see from my win- 
dows-are very beautiful. And I can cover up the 
tables and supply the homey look which at present is 
wanting-so why did I grumble ? ^\•e have driven in 
state through the town, and have visited the (iovern- 
inent buildings. 1 was (U-lighted with the Senate, and 
With the Library-a iiiige, circular room. When the 



CH. I 

a magnifi- 
cts of cah- 
iat on deck 

u]) the St. 
•oyaj(e this 
ic did it of 

e first view 
re was IK) 
addresses 
off to our 
Uhiisiastic 
of Rideau 
road to it 
> he at the 
it, thoujfh 
I liundreds 
ill I have 
id the in- 
ave a de- 
at I have 
is its sub- 

)wl. The 
His. \V'c 
id I dare 
'iir house 
le Houses 

my win- 
r up the 
ircseiit irt 
[Iriveii in 

( lovern- 
late, and 

lien the 



JULY i£72 HOUSEHOLD ARRANGEMENTS. m 

House is sitting I may come and Usten to debates, but 
the Governor-Cleneral may not ! 

The weather is extremely hot, and we are not going 
to remain here. 1). goes to-morrow to insjiect militia at 
I'rescott, and I meet him there two days later. 

Monday, July yst.—Wa went for a row on the river 
in the evening, which was delicious. It was very pretty ; 
and we had a breath (jf fresh air, and got out of a per- 
spiration for the first time for a week ' 

We have been busy making a number of household 
arrangements. I have chosen my nurseries ; and it has 
been decided to add a story to the little house in the 
garden in which the Fletchers willlive,— for they hav j 
a numl)er of children too. The non-arrival of all our 
heavy luggage has been an an.xiety ; so far our vicere- 
gal establishment possesses about six plates and as many 
cracked teacups; and our own siijiply of china, plate, 
Olid linen seems to lie trying to see the country, and to 
travel for pleasure, instead of coming and settling down 
here as it should, 

Perhaps you may wonder wiiere my :nil(Iren are all 
this time. The three elder ones are still in Europe, try. 
mg to learn a little French, and Hermioiie and Basil, 
who came out with us, are now at Riviere du I.oup,' 
where we have taken a house for the summer. 'Ihere' 
also, are the Fletcher children. Colonel* and Lady 
Harriet Fletcher came out to Canada the mail before we 
did, and made all arrangements f<.r us and for them- 
selves. He is the Military Secretarv. We have two 
very nice \. D.C.s at present. One of them was with 
Fnrd I.isgar. and has kindly volunteered to sfav and 
iH'lp us tor a time. The other is Mr. Coulson. who Ih 
regularly appointed, and whr, will remain even after 



The late Coloiu-I FIticher, C. M.U.. Scotn Funilier GuanU. 



6 MY CANADIAX JOURNAL. CH. I 

I'Vecl comes out Please tell the latter that I f.nd that 

an A. I). ,s a charm.n^r institution. These two ask me 

'f will dr.ve, "or walk," "or boat," or "if I want 

anything from the town-; and if I turn mv head thcv 

nd out what I am boking for, and get it 'for mJ. So 
red need rot hope to get off any of his duties through 
my Ignorance of tliem ! *" 

trv In/.M"'"'^' ^''T^' ''V ■' '""''■' ^''^'^^'" ^^'^'^ '^^^ ^^>"n- 

i thn)k that I am getting on pretty well too.-though I 

s.yu that should be silent in the matter; and the pa! 
I'ers, who talk about us a good deal, lay great stress on 
my not bemg affected-a negative virtue which I may 
mention without appearing too conceited ' 

My attentive A. I). C.s have taken me to see the Chau- 

c tre I-ail. It ,s close to Ottawa, and is verv beautiful, 

here is a massif water which appears to fall in three 

cl.flcrent directions into the same pool, and a great 

moke ooam rises from the splash; it looks jus 'like 
a K^ caldron. (Mose to it is a saw-mill. Thi trunks 
fo.est-trees are carried by the strean> to the door of 
'c mil. where they are caught by chains and slowly 
<''a«RC(l into the teeth of a bundle of saws. After ,)-,ss 
2 through these, the trees fall in planks, which arj 
M'" Uy taken up by an,.ther machine to have their sides 
"c-atly, rimmed. As they pass, a man marks them with 
a pencil according to their tpiality. 

After this we " ran the sliue." which was very excit- 
'"R. I he "slide " is a long incline of water, divided i... 

I> Himh the timber Irom the higher levels is brought 
clown mto the St. Lawrence. The wood is made up ,n,o 

MS.UUI yon sit upon these while they slip down the 
'"clme. It looks rather alarming to see one of th.^e 
great monsters g,. headlong into the water at the fJot 



CH. I 



Jl'I.Y 1872 



RUNNIXG THE KAPIDS. 



I find that 
wo ask me 
'if I want 
liead, tliey 
T me. So 
es through 

the conn- 
with him. 
-though I 
nd the pa- 
stress on 
ich I may 

the Chaii- 
beaiitifiil, 
in three 
I a great 
just like 
le trunks 
e door of 
d slowly 
ter pass- 
'liich are 
leir sides 
lem with 

ry excit- 
I'icled in- 

ial road 
brouglit 

lip into 
)wn the 
L>f the«e 
he foot 



of each fall ; but, although I got on board with my heart 
in my mouth, I liked it extremely, and when I found my- 
self safe on the calm level of the Ottawa, 1 would gladly 
have reconunenced the journey had it been possible: but 
when one has slid down this steej) hill of water to the 
river, one is miles away from the starting-point, and has 
to go home another way. 'I'he rafts and the <|uantities 
of wood lying about in all directions are the most curi- 
ous sights liere. but I see no really fine timber growing 
in this neighborhood. 

U'ednesi/ay, jti. — \ left Ottawa early, and met I), at 
Prescott. He had been inspecting volunteer cami)s at 
Kingston and l'resc(Jtt, and is to see another at I.ajjrai- 
rie to-morrow. 

We shot the rapids. The rajiids are places wiiere 
there is a tremendous stream rushing over a rocky de- 
scent. When the steamer comes to them the engine is 
stopped, and the current carries the vessel over the 
broken water at a great rale. Jf the pilot were to make 
a mistake, or to lose command of the ship, she would be 
wrecked. The rapids look like a stormy sea, but you do 
not go up and down in them, and rather feel as though 
the vessel were being buffeted about, and as if it were 
striking some hard substance. The worst rapid is called 
the " Lachine,"and that does look rather alarming. The 
rapids are all down hill, and going at such a great pace 
the |)il()t* appears to be steering straight upon some 
fearful rock, peeping above water, when just as you ex- 
pect the crash, the stream takes the vessel and carries 
her clear of the danger. 

We were met at Montreal by the Mayor and a guard 
of honor. 



• The pilot on thi. occasion was "Old B.rpliMc," who took lu.l.mn 
a channel he hail himself firnt found in 1843. 



8 



M Y CAN A DIAN JO URXAL. 



err. I 

Quebec : FrUay, s^/r-l saw a little of Montreal yes- 
terday, but not enon^.h to warrant a description We 
went to a little country place, where we had strawber- 
ries and cream under the trees, and when I returned to 
the hotel I received visitors. I f.nd Canadian society 
very easy to ^r^t on with: the people talk, and they .-.re 
very simple and natural, and wiling to be pleased; so 
tha receiving seventy or eighty total strangers is 
made a pleasant instead of an arduous task,-as i 
might be. ' 

I), was occupied all day inspecting a camp, and in 
receiving addresses. i » 'u m 

VVe dined early, and went on board the steamer for 
Quebec. here were 800 passengers, most of them lying 
about on the lloors; but we had comfortable cabins and 
s ept well all n.ght. The only new things we l::!! 
this journey were the f.re-flies; they were so numerous 
on the wooded banks of the river that their lights looked 
like those of a distant town. 

_S-./.;v/.,, ^//,__The Governor-General has some of 
h^ privileges of the old kings of France, and one of 
them IS that he has the right to enter the cloistered con- 
vents, n his train, therefore, we have been to the Ursu- 
n^sand to the Hotel-Dieu. The Vicar-General went 
with us, and at each convent, after inspecting the ordi- 
nary arrangements of the house, we went into a room 
where the nuns were arranged in rows, and where we 
sat on thrones on a dais. In a clever, easy way the 
War inaugurate a kind of general conver.sa'tion about 
e convent, and the nuns laughed at hi. little jokes 
and answered any (,uestions put to them. We were 
Kreatly struck by their manners, so pleasant and cl'x-! 
ful. without the slightest affectation or shyness 

mof:;:t.r-r;r'7;T''^'^''^'"^^^""^- 

■ - ^^"^ '" fhc 7)o„»//ess, n thirty-six- 



I 



« 



-J- 



CII. I 

)ntreal yes- 
ption. We 
1 strawber- 
fturned to 
ian society 
d they are 
•leased ; so 
•angers is 
isi<, — as it 

np, and in 

:eamer for 
liem lying 
abins, and 
/e saw on 

numerous 
>ts looked 

some of 
d one of 
ered con- 
llie Ursu- 
!ral vvent 
the ordi- 

a room 
vhcre we 
way the 
)n about 
e jokes, 
Ve were 
d ciieer- 

L" Mont- 
irty-six- 









JULY 1872 



THE • • DA UN TLESS." 



ton yacht which he has bought, and we rowed in a big 
boat. The fall is six miles from Quebec. The day was 
very fine, and as we saw them from the river the shin- 
ing tin roofs of the town looked beautiful in the sun- 
shine. 

The first view of the fall is spoiled by the quantity 
of timber at its base. The bay is crammed with stacks 
of boards and wood, piled up in every way, and there are 
saw-mills hard at work ; but when you get close enough 
to see it, the Montmorency is really beautiful. It is 170 
feet high— higher than Niagara-and it falls perfectly 
straight down into the earth, clouds of .spray rising up 
m front of it. The water does not appear to rush on as 
in most waterfalls, and it is supposed that it dives into 
the ground, and comes out elsewhere. 

We had brought provisions with us, so we lighted a 
fire, cooked an excellent lunch, and afterward made tea. 
In the cool of the evening we rowed back to Quebec, 
and got on board the steamer for Riviere du"l,oup' 
This is the fashionable time for going to the seaside, so 
the boats are very full. 

Jiivih-cdu Loup : Tuesday, gth.—Qwx house here is a 
nice little cottage, but it is a long way from the sea, and 
I don't think that we shall care to shut ourselves uj) in it 
for long. We are imi)atient to see more of the country 
and the people, and if only we can find a house at Que- 
bec we shall go there; for the more we sec of that place, 
the more we like it. 

Wt'ifnesiiay, /t;///.— After getting my letters ready 
for the mail we set out for the yacht. Tiie day was not 
very good, but there was a nice breeze, and although the 
Fletchers and I felt a little una)mfortable at first, we all 
got over it and enjoye.' ourselves verv much. H. K. was 
delighted with the J)„, Jhss. His KailurH are not very 
smart, but he is looking forward to the arrival of Ham- 



I! 



lO 



A/y CAXADJAX JOURNAL. 



en. I 

moml.* who will soon give it the air of an English 
yackt. I he Dauntless has a well to sit in, and a hu-.^e 
bu rather low cabin. She is one of the/./ vachts wUh 
a sl.d.nj, keel. I), steered back into the ha'rhor before 
a.) admuuig crowd just arrived b)- the .steamer. An 
American on the shore called out, " Well, Governor you 
seem to be used to this kind of work." 

Thursday, nt/,.-\)r. Campbell, of Montreal, came 
here to offer I), some salmon-fishin^r. He has acceped 
for two days, and goes ne.xt Wednesday, the i Tin- 
Colonel Fletcher with him. They will \\\-^ in a c.mp 
and be eaten by black Hies and moscp.itoes. The former 
have a sharp lance, which they insert under the skin 
\ou do not feel the bite at the time, but it bleeds freely 
and inflames next day. While fishinjr. vou keep your 
face and neck covered with a preparati.ui which the flies 
chsbke. I)r Campbell ,.ave an excitin,: account of the 
r.sh.ng, and how the f.she man runs along the banks as 
fast as he can, while the .salmon rushes down the rapids. 
I^thmk /should l.ke to go too-but ladies are not in- 

Saturday, ,of/,--n. E. returned in the evening. He 
enjoyed h.s tr.p very much, though the salmo, were 
scarce and he only caught f.ve trout. Dr. Campbell 

party M, Urquhart attended to the dinner, and was 

most anx.ous" about it._it consisted of salmon 
c old beef, and was very good ; still, it does not sound a 
If It recpured mimense thought and preparation 

Moudav, .^,/.-(:,>ionel Fletcher has gone off to see 
houses at Quebec. ^^ 

In the afternoon we drove to Caconna, a more fash- 
lonable waternig-place than this, where there is a large 



' An Ent^Hsb --ailor 



ill 



CH. T 

an English 
and a large 

yachts with 
iri)or before 
iamer. An 
ivcrnor, you 

treal, came 
IS acceii-ed 
the i7tii — 
in a c-'unp, 
riie former 
r the skin, 
eeds freely 
keep your 
I'h the flies 
)iint of the 
' banks as 
the rapids, 
ire not in- 

ling. He 
inoi) were 
Campbell, 

were the 
. and was 
'mon and 

soiuid as 



JCLY 1872 



T A DO USA C. 



ri 



ff t 



o see 



ore fash- 
' a large 



hotel frequented by Americans, who amuse themselves 
by dressing four times a day. 

IVrdnvsUay, 241/1.— \\ and I started in the afternoon 
for Tadousac. It was quite dark when we got there, 
after two hours in the steamer, and we could only see 
that we drove up a most dangerous road. It was a 
wooden ramp, just wide enough for the carriage, and 
with a little precipice on each side, i led to the hotel 
which we found extremely clean and comfortable. I 
think they manage these things very well in Canada 
There is a complete absence of pretense. The furniture 
IS very plain: just a strip of carpet in one's bedroom 
common-looking French beds, washing-stand and chest 
of drawers— no curtains anywhere— the only lu.xury 
being extreme cleanliness. 'J-here is a table U Iwtc where 
all dine— servants at the same table as the other guests 
-and the food is very good. We had private rooms 
and private meuls, but no one else would think of such a 
thing. The same simplicity strikes me as characteristic 
of the people. They do not pn-temi to be fine or smart, 
or anything but what they are; they believe every word 
you say, and take all polite exaggerations an pld dc la 
Icttre. They are exceedingly friendly and kind-hearted, 
so that their saying what they think does not lead to' 
any uncomfortable s|)ee(-hes. 

Tadousac is the oldest, but I should think the smallest, 
place in the Dominion. Not only as tourists, but as 
sailors, we are delighted with it. The hotel is situ- 
ated in the curve of a lovely bay, with a nice sandy 
beach all round it. There are rocky walks of a most 
amusing description for the walker, a good anchorage 
for the yachtsman, and as all the fishing is up the 
Saguenay, and this place is at its mouth, there is sport 
for the sportsman. There are white porpoises and seals, 
and occasional whales to be seen rolling and jumping 



12 



^fV CAA^AD/AN JOURNAL. 



CH I 

forthel'lr' '■■ "'^"' "' """^"'S ^ '-- here 

fo^d, a rcsi<lc„ , . , wl, '," "' '"" '"""" '"'■ ^a^^ 
.0 the flsl,ing-g„ :J " ';f 'T'"" '° '■■'"P-"" "^ 
searted never.he e s in tL ', f "'° ^"'™'>-' l^"' ^^ 

^''oa- We „ad"r:,;r; >:^:;' "';,"e:::',^>- '»" ™- 

luok at, and white Dornn\.. ^beautiful coast to 

wa.er .o a™„.e „:. ' u' '^e ^e.^ed T'T"' '" '"= 
anCored, and wen, on s.,or o , '„t ^7'=™" "= 

I was just being inslruceed in l,e «,! ,1, ''■'"™'''- 
%, and was standnm „„ i„ ,,,„ ", "' "'™»-,ng ,|,e 
water wl.„ „, line, „t ' H g .^..T"^"-. '-'-. .l,e 
koat, " Pnt i,|, your rod and V """ ""^ "'her 

The yaehe had dra^g d |',er anch""-" "" "'^ '"^ ^'"l'" 
on the rocks. We gt,t o h ' ''""' "'" '"'" K™"g 

fastened .ow-rcet h , ^^^ ^V'^r"^ " " """''^ 
"Meulty got her on. of l,e , r'n't J' ""^ """ '"''' 

f';-^ went. ..Ho„e," said rk:,?:: ;"''"'•,"'' 

fact ,t had come on to blow too hard Z fi , '"'"' '" 
'-... go into deep water whe^he 'avl a^e?' '" '"f 

^:trere";tir'x°''nT'^- '-■--; 
i""eh,andse!t,'ed':;.h:;:;;rrg:x^';r^^ 

day and try again. ^ "^^ "^•''t 

In the afternoon we took i ivnit 

charmed with Tadousac. It ij ^ t h ' "T ^"''^^ 
Sagiienav River md th. . / r ^ '""'"^'^ "^ ^he 

above a 'beautiar, '" ol r w':, "" ^'^".^^^ ''^ -^-' 
it was not too fatiguin.- t I r l ' "*"^'' ^"^ >'^' 



Jl'LY 1872 



THE SAG U EN A V. 



13 



two Rice Lake canoes, and I), tried paddling in one 
Willie I went out in the other 

tufri^') "^'''-^"'''"^^' ^^' 5 A. M., w.th the information 
that the day was very favorable for fishin^r. ^y^ ,,^,^ 
at the wharf at six-a beautiful morning/ There were 
two row-boats ready for us, and we set off, up the Sa- 
guenay. ' 

The river is like a rift in a rocky mountain, and it 
was very pretty in the early morning rowing along it • 
.^reat chffs on each side, the river everv n,,; and then 
spreadmg out into a bay, and looking like a lake the 
entrance quite hidden by projecting n.cks. We h^ul a 
three-hours row, and arrived at St. Etienne. a feeding- 
ground of the trout. I again began to throw my fly 
and soon became .juite e.xpert at it. I caught sixteen 
and D. nineteen, and after my arm ached Mr. Radford' 
took my^rod and caught four; so our bag was a pretty 

We lunched on the rocks, aid afterward got on board 
and sailed nearly the whole way home till it began to rain 
hen the wind fell, so we took to our row-boats and got' 
back in time for dinner. Our long day was not ov7r v'e 
1 he young lad.es of Tadousac had got up a charity co^.' 

h 't: th" '"""''' •• '^ "^^ '" '''' '^"^^'' -^1 '-'ween 
the songs there were some pretty M.ru.v. When all was 

sJia .::: tf ^° """ ^° -'^ '-''' '-' ^^^-^'^ ^ '-^ "^ 

so early in the morning. 

Sa/,,n/.,j, ^7//,._Another lovely Jay. We like Ta 
donsac «, ,„uch that we have actually cho.en a site and 
.rego,„g,„b,,il.la„o„de,, l,„„se here for nex ^ 
Ihe a,r ,s clel,c,„us, and we feel «, well and cheerful ■ 

After breakfast we walked to an Indian hut to see a 
young bear they had found on the hills. He was very 
little and very unami.nhlp.ir.oi,;.,„ -,..._ r ,. "^ 

lan women 



are v 



•ery dark and ugly, and have their h 



air tied up in 



H 



M V CA XA DIA N JO URXA L, 



en I 






little bajjs on each side of their faces. I), next took me 
out in a canoe, and wc had a talk with tiie autiiorities 
about our site. At two we yot on board the steamer, 
and returned to Riviere du Loup. 

Coh)nel and Lady Harriet Fletcher came down to 
meet us, and we hear from him that the artillery (juar- 
ters at Quebec are more likely to suit us than any other 
house we can get this year. 1). will go and see them. 

Monday, 2(^th. — Directly after breakfast Lady H. and 
her governess and children came in to help me to jirejiare 
for my first Canadian entertainment ! Unft)rtunately, I). 
will not be at it, as lie has gone off to Quebec. Of course 
we have small means here of doing anything grand— no 
ornaments at all; thick, white earthenware cups, lodg- 
ing-house furniture, etc., and only wild tlowers to i)e had. 
With them we determined to do a great deal. We got 
moss and ferns, wild roses and red berries; called in 
soup-plates, finger-glasses, and bark canoes; and had in 
the drawing-room fourteen bouipiets — eight on brackets 
round the walls, and one on each table. Then we put 
moss on the chiniiiey-pieie and filled it with bright llow- 
ers, and covered the board in front of the fire|)lace with 
fir-branches, etc. Opposite the drawing-room is the best 
bedroom. We carried out the bed, arranged the firejilace 
in the sanie way, and had tables with tea, coffee, iced milk, 
champagne cup anil cakes there. On one side of our house 
we had croipiet, and on the other chairs, and I received 
my company at four o'clock in the chair department. 

'l"he arrangements took us the whole morning, and 
amused us very much; the only drawback was that wc 
luid no man, not even an aide-de-camp! 

Luckily, the day was splendid. We sat ourselves 
upon the lawn, and soon the first people came, The 
second carriagi- which arrived ctiiilaiiieil llii'cc plif^ls 
with French names! 'I'hey had no cards, und Nuwcll, 



CM I 



juiY 1872 M V f/A'Sr EN TER TAINMEN T. \ 5 

our EiiRlish servant, whom I liad tokl to be very particu- 
lar about annouiKiMjr tlie names clearly, rememberinj; 
my instructions, and unable to jironounce them, stopped 
my guests outside and made them write their names on 
a piece of paper. One of them, a very jolly Irishman, 
asked, " Are you His Excellency's aiiie-de-camp ?" 

When allhad arrived a y;ood game of crcxpiet was 
got u]), and the people who did not play sat on the lawn 
and talked. I had over thirty, and they ailmired our 
decorations very much. 

'I'lie moment my party broke up, and in si^lit of 
many of the visitors, my nei.^diliors' servants came to 
fetch the things they had lent me ; and it was funny to 
see cups and soup-plates and chairs being carried off to 
their lawful owners. I had asked people from four to 
si.x, and, like Cinderella, they rushed off when the hour 
struck. 

\\'fi/nest/a\\ j/s/.— Wq arrived at Tadousac late last 
night, bringing the children with us. I took them this 
morning to a sandy place, where they soon improvised 
spades and began to " make a dirt," as llermie said. 

In the afternoon I.ady 11. and 1 went a drive— the 
only drive here. It begins on a very sandy road, comes 
to a place where the horses have, every few minules, to 
walk down one wall and up another, continues through 
the remains of a burned forest, where the charred stumps 
of trees are almost buried in the luxuriant, fresh green 
vegetation springing up armmd them, and then brings 
you to a place which is really fearful: one side of the 
road is a steep precipice, the other a loose sandy hill, 
which is constantly slipping down and filling up the very 
narrow space you have to drive on. Here we got a 
pretty peep of the Saguenay, while heretofore we had 
been looking upon the Hi. Lawrentc. I), and the Colonel 
went out boating. 



i6 



My CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CM. I 

SunJay, August 4lh.-'n,^ Jay ^as f„^rgy and riinv 
^.U we walk., tc. t.,c lutle du.rC. whu ^' ,r , 1 ":' 

> m.ule ,.f wood, just as y.n. w<n.ld make „„e w th . 

of Nood. p.lcd „nc' upon the other. It is very m.-iint 
-.1 s.mple. The service at Tadousae dep^ ds ' ; ^ 
s ray eU.r«ymen. and this Sunday there was none s^' 
"K-n the place, so they asked an American Script - 
reader to read prayers, an<l he ^ave us a very nicJ e^. 

c. Hand 1 took a walk in tiu.. afternoon, and w^^^^^ 
■nve.Kded .nto payin,. a visit. \\'. are /.. ,.Jw to n v 
v.s.ts as a rule, but sometin.es we n,eet a ' riend a his 
own d.M.r. and he asks us to come in 

.V<v„/,,r v//,.-\Ve were suddenly struck with the idee 

ofK.Hn,s.dm.,n.nshinK^sowe.,rcleredahamper,, , 
v.s.ons to he ready in twenty „,inutes. took a comb , 

brus and a pocket-handkerchief in aba., and s^ti;^ 
I . ami I ,n the //,,.,..,/., which is a small yawl. Ham 
"O'ul follow.n,. in the A,..,/,,, w, ,,,, a iov ly dl 
"P tho Saguenay to the mouth of the Marjrucrite Riv'e 
where we arrived about four o'clock, and stnt ashor f ; 
the Sherman. Then we each got into a can<,e, and 
gan o ascen,! the rapids • I have already desc il,e. he 

2'''s - U>ey appeared from a steamer, but from a^n: 
one sees the dangers more closely. A „,,n stm, r ? 

eachendoftheca..oe.withalon.;ole': , ^,:^ 
passenger s.ts in the mi.ldle. on the floor. The c ;r t 
■ s some.h.nj. tremendous, and the water dashes abo 
to rocks .n .,u,te a fearful way. The men /./. the 
n.M,,.. rst,u.nKasl.oveononesi.Ieand,hn. o,; 

iltrfui skdl. It ,s very hard work, and wh.-,, i .,:., 



eymj.ati.eticaliy to our conductor that 



U must be ftt- 



'- CH. I 

M;gy and rainy, 
t-h I), admires, 
cipk's of archi- 
i'l Canada, and 
kc one with a 
and short bars 
is very (juaint 
depends upon 
as none stay- 
:an Script ure- 
'ery nice scrv- 
oon, and were 
.C'"//'/ to pay 
I'licnd at his 

with the idee 
miper of pro- 
V a comb and 
r, and set off, 
yawl, Kani- 
a lovely sail 
lu-rite River, 
lit ashore for 
""0, and be- 
lescribed the 
rom a canoe 
11 stands at 
is hand; the 
'I'he current 
ashes about 
'oie the boat 
li'^ii on the 
y with won- 
h-en r „.,;,} 

Hist be fa- 



AUG. 1873 



71/ E FIKST SAl.ArOX. 



17 



tiguing work, he replied with very great fervor, ''Joliment 
Jati^iuiiitr 'I'his is going /// the rapids; coming down 
the rush is with you, and then with etjual skill the men 
use their i)ad(iles and ward the boat oil from the rocks 
stoi)ping her in her headlong career as she appears to be 
rushing to destruction. We went up successfully, and 
landed about eight o'clock at the edge of a wood, groped 
our way up a narrow path, and f(nnul ourselves at three 
small wooden huts. The first was a dining-room and 
pantry, the second two bedrooms, the third a place for 
the men. ()j)posite the dining-room, but fifty yards from 
it. was an open shed, which I found to be the kitchen; 
and as J sat at the head of the table I saw Imi)s dancing 
about the lire cooking our dinner. 

Opposite our encampment there is a curious geologi- 
ca!— or dayological— formation : it looks as if half a 
high hill had been cut clean away with a knife-in fact, 
a perfect section of a hill is exposed to view. It is quite 
as Hat as the side of a cheese, with nothing growing upon 
it, but the top is crowned with trees. The side is gray 
clay, and it is six /lumired feet high. 

We were very glad to retire soon to our little iron 
beds, and to cree|) under our nios(piito-curtains ; but I 
confess 1 felt a certain emotion at the idea of sleeping in 
such a lonely place, with no one between us and the 
North Pole' 

Tuesiiity, ^///.—Notwithstanding the solitary feelings 
which oppressed me for a time last night, I slept, and 
was ready to get up at five. We performed a hasiy 
"toilet," swallowed a ciip of tea. and took the canoes 
for fishing. We were both most industrious, and (logged 
the water with our flies, but had no bites; then " I'eter." 
flu- fisherman, took my rod and hooked a salmon. My 

ro<! [H -Inail, and lu: rxrl.iimpi! na rh^. v iii»^,.., „.r. ..a 



moil ran ott 



With the line, that " the cord was too short." (^uiuk 



as 



^ 



i8 



M Y CA A'// DIA N JO URXA L. 



CH. I 



possible he jiiinped into a canoe, and wc saw a most ex- 
citing chase; the salmon flying off with yards of line,— 
being wound up again,— giving an occasional jump into 
the air, and battling courageously for life. When he 
was getting worn out I'eter landed and insisted upon my 
holding the rod. 1 found it almost too heavy for me, 
and I had a great deal of help in finishing the poor vic- 
tim, who still made dashes to release himself. At last 
we got him near the shore, when a cruel gaff was stuck 
into him, and a cry of triumph from the men announced 
his death to us, and to the listening woods. The salmon 
weighed fifteen pounds, 

At nine we went home to our breakfast. After it we 
sat at the kitchen fire and burnt holes in the only boots 
we had with us ! The day was very fine, and we walk jd 
and sat aliout till four o clock, when fishing recom- 
menced. I must tell you that we were oiled all over, 
face and neck and hands, with a strong-smelling stuff, 
to keep off the moscjuitoes. 

Again D. and I began to work, and soon //<• hooked 
a salmon, ami I laid down my rod to see the fight. It 
lasted a long time, and the fish led the fisherman a good 
dance before he died. He weighed fourteen and a quar- 
ter pounds, and was His Lordship's first salmon! We 
caught no more, 

\\'('iiiu-sJa\\ yth. — At eight o't lock we left the huts and 
went uown the rapids, the men singing some of their 
wild and curious boat-songs as they paddleil us along. 
We had arranged to fish for trout at the place where we 
had anchored the yachts, and then to be picked up l)y 
the steamer on its way down the Saguenay, and to go 
oil to Rivi<:;re du I.onp. However, to our astonishment, 
we saw our steamer going up the river. She had been 
detained by fog, and our jilans were th.us put out. There 
was nothing for it but to sail back to '^'adousuc, and 






CH. I 

saw a most ex- 
I'ards of line, — 
Jiial jump into 
life. When he 
sisted upon my 
heavy for me, 
j; the poor vic- 
iiself. At last 
\r:\({ was stuck 
len announced 
. The sahnon 



Aii;. 1872 



HUNGRY AXD TIRED. 



'9 



await the steamer's return there. We had a couple of 
very disagreeai)le hours, and Inaliy arrived at our des- 
tination in a fog, a thunderstorm, and a heavy shower. 
As we expected the steamer's immediate return, we 
merely lay down upon our l)eds, and waited till five 
o'clock in the morning, when at last she arrived, and I), 
and I and our two sleepy children got on board. I), 
went straight on to Quebec, so he retired to bed ; i)ut 
as we were to reach Riviere du Loup in two hours, we 
remained up, and got there at last very hungry and tired. 



t. After it we 
the only boots 
md we walk jd 
ishing recom- 
)iled all over, 
smelling stuff, 

)on //(• hooked 
the fight, it 
ernian a good 
;n and a quar- 
salmon! We 



t the huts and 
<ome of their 
led us along, 
ace where we 
picked up by 
ly, and to go 
astonishment, 
>he had been 
t out. There 
'aduusac, and 



CHAPTER II. 



I f 



QVKUKC. 

The CitaJ,'! : Friday, August 9tf,.-~\.:,^y Harriet and 
I have jcned I), at Quebec, and I an, ,.uch please .vih 
my barrack home. All bcu.ks about Canada will te 
you how splendid is the situation of the Citadel; very 
h.^^h, and commanding a magnificent view of that great 
m-er the St. Lawrence. Our house-.- quarters 
sh uld say-,s not yet quite ready, and workmen are 
stdl busy papermg and n.aking alterations. The old 

above It. It ,s a long room, with windows at ei'her end • 
hose facmg the river open on to an immense platform" 
the outer wall of which forms a balustrade. There sTt' 
and look down htnuireds of feet upon the town Iving be- 
low me; or Into the ships, on to whose decks ffancv I 
could almost throw a .stone; or at the St. Lawrence'it- 
•If. and at the blue hills far away-in fact, at one of 
the most celebrated views of the world! There are 
great black cannon also looking out from the Citadel 
and the Union Jack and the Dominion Flag are ii yi g 
beside me, I assure you it is very romantic ' ^ *^ 

I am rather afraid that with your little English ideas 

you wdl not understand the size of my ..platLm/' 1^^^^^^^ 
It s big enough to give a ball on. or a gar.len par v 
a chanty bazaar, or any other sort of ...»!,„.;.,. ' , n'..! 



open your mind for the consideration of 



It. 



i 



AUG. 1872 



SETTING UP HOUSE. 



ly Harriet and 
;;h pleased with 
uiada will tell 
: Citadel ; very 
' of that great 
-" quarters," I 

workmen are 
^ns. The old 
awing-room is 

at eiMier end: 
!nse platform, 
;. There I sit 
own lyinjr be- 
L'cks I fancy I 

Lawrence it- 
net, at one of 
! There are 
1 the Citadel, 
ag are flying 
c! 

I'-nij^Jish ideas 
latform," hut 
Icn party, or 
'n^ you like! 
A it. 



21 

D. and Colonel Fletcher rode, and I went for a charm- 
ing drive, and was more pleased than ever with the conn 
try round Quebec. Everything is growing so lu.xuriantlv 
now. Tl,e hedges are full of (lowers and large wild maid'- 
enhair fern, and quantities of berries which all seem to 
be eatal.le; and the crops, which, before they were fully 
developed, looked miserable, have suddenly swelled out 
and Idled up all the bare places one deplored a month ago 
Monday, /^M.-The weather is very hot, but not 
oppressive. l>co,)le here live behind green blinds, and 
shut the sun out of their houses : they can not under- 
stand our -iking to see it shine in, and they complain of 
the heat much more than we do. 

7W,n., ijth.-ln the afternoon we went out to do 
some shopping. The most important part of it was 
choosmg furniture for a little room. Jt was difiicult to 
get what we wanted. They have no plain stuffed sofas 
or cha.rs-everythu.g is surrounded by elaborate cary. 
nigs m wood, and the men are astonished that their 
£-xceliencies " u'aiiiwiit pas la sculpturer 

We are miserable over our hea^y luggage, which 
w Ino arr.ve. We have nine dessert-plates, and no 
"tlu-r .hma, no silver plate at all, no harness, and it is 
'mp.'ssil,le to ".setup" or to give dinners until these 
tlHMgs .ynve. No one traveling here should h.se sight 
"f Ins bo., for an instant. Things are never lost, but 
they may be months getting to their owner 

I have been looking for a .scullery-maid, and find 
women-servants very scarce, I have only seen one 
young lady in .search of the place: she s.u.ke with a 

feathers. She was extremely surprised at my wishing 

o have a character. She ha.I one. but had left it at 

home, nut supposing i shoul.i care to see it; of course 

she could fetch it directly. Next morning :C\:ZZ 



'^*»- 



ii 



My CAA'ADIAN JOURXAL. 



CH. II 

me three lines, on very common paper, wluch, i„ very 
bad wr.t.n,., cerfhed her to be honest and "obi d.ein^. ^ 
In spue of the brogue she was Canadian, and was ' u';e 
she d.dn't know what Man.a was," wh;n 1 questioned 
her as to her nationality. questioned 

all ?Jf?V^1r'^T'^ ^"^ "^y ^'^^'-" letters shut up 
all ready for the mail, 1 took a complete holiday from 
wntin,., for one is always pen in hand here, and letted 
writing becomes one's normal condition. W. look unon 
our epistles as seed sown, and are always e,,^ ' h 
otner on to write to new people, that our harvest of 
news may be plentiful. 

Vv/h'r,rT' ''"■ ^''' '''''"^^'^' ''^"^' ^ ff^'e is blowing 
VVe hardly know our Quebec in this tempest, and loin 
to see It in its usual sunshine again ^ 

age''a"littl ''"".?" "' '"''' ' '^""' ""' ^^^-^-^'b' man- 
age a little walk too. Colonel Strange* has lent us 

some arms, and at the top of our crimson-clothed t.i 

.w.n.,..f„ur are cricketers, wh„ ar^ e.pe' . „ We 
to-iii.imiw from I'liiKlaiul <;-M«."ui to arrive 

Ottawa/'""'"""' "■'" ''"""^ Secretary, arrived from 

«rr,M,K„,K the <lraw„,K:.r„„„, ; ,|,en we drove 1„ the 
^.wn to K,:. tal,le.covers and some r.nishin, ,„ tl 's 
Our c torts were erowncl with success, and tie rt™ 
looked extremely pretty. " 



3 



i 



I., commnnci of H Ballory, Cnnadinn Artillery. 



z. 



CH. n 



AUG. 187a 



A PICNIC. 



, which, in very 
id "oblidgeing." 
, and was " sure 
en I questioned 

letters shut up 
e holiday from 
ere, and letter- 

\V'c looic u|)on 
^'s ejrjring each 
3ur harvest of 

le is blowing, 
pest, and long 

:enerally man- 
* lias lent us 
clothed stair- 
f swords and 
lyonets. Our 
ope it will be 
?r of twenty- 
r glass, plate, 
even of our 
:ted to arrive 

arrived from 

ole morning 
'ove to the 
ng touches. 
cl the room 



23 



H 



Nearly everything had to he hired for the dining- 
room ; but about an hour before dinner a few cases 
arrived, and two or three salvers were got out to orna- 
ment the sideboard. 

We had thirty people — eleven of ihem cricketers. 
The dinner was supposed to be at 7.30, and the Cana- 
dians arrived punctually, but the English guests were 
somewhat London-like in their hours. In the evening 
the officers of the B Battery, quartered in the Citadel, 
came in. Every one admired our new platform very 
much, and as a most sjjlendid moon shone down upon 
the St. Lawrence for the occasion, it really was very 
nice. The attractions of the platform almost emptied 
the drawing-room. 

Tucuiay, 20t/t.—ln the afternoon we drove out, Lady 
Harriet, Mr. Coulson, and L First we went over an asy- 
lum part of which is for old men and old women. 'I'he 
first old gentleman I saw said, " I was ju.st coming up to 
see you. I come from Killyleagh."* 

At each side of the building are orphan asylums. We 
went over everything thoroughly, going up to the attics 
and down to the kitchens, and examining both the sum- 
mer and winter clothing of the boys and girls. 

Thursday, 2^./.— The morning looked damp and un- 
certain, but we started on a picnic. A tandem, contain- 
ing our second cook and our guide and commissariat 
officer, led the way. Lady W. and I followed in a ba- 
rouche. I), and Colonel Fletcher rode. I must tell you 
that our "guide " is quite a character, and is of a most 
sanguine disposition : he declared the distance to the 
lake was only twenty miles, that there we should catch 
fish of enormous weights, that moose and bear and cari- 
bou would be shot by us in the bush, and. although it 



ery. 



* My old home in County Down. 



24 



MY CAXAD/AX JOUKh'AL. 



CH. II 



•J\ 



poured as we drove along, that the weather would be 
lovely "in half an hour." 

D. thought seriously of turning back, but we voted 
for gmng the sun another chance, and things soon 
looked much better. When we had reached the " twenty 
miles" we found we were about half wav, and we 
stopped at a cottage to change carriages. The rest of 
the road was too rough for our barouche, so we gu into 
the wagon with the tandem, while the cook set out in a 
cart We gave the horses an hour to rest, while we sat 
in the garden and talked to the man and his wife. She 
was Scotch, and he a very good specimen of an Irish- 
man. Hehad bought eighty acres for ^,00, but thinks 
a tenant in Ireland better off, in spite of his "rent." 
They both dread the long winters, and the heat of the 
summer. 

They had such a nice dog with an extraordinary 
taste for putting out fires. When shown a lighted paper 
he rushed at it, tried to extinguish it with his mouth' 
then had recourse to his paws, and, after succeeding' 
cooled his poor tongue with some clay or a stone 

When we reached our destination, we found our 
three tents pitched on the borders of Lake St Joseph 
which is ten miles long, and is surrounded by hills 
covered with woods. At sunset it was lovely; the hills 
becoming purple and blue, and the water looking like 
molten brass. Close to our encampment was a farm- 
house, and a nice Irish family, all with char .ing man- 
ners— the father a magistrate. 

Our guide had been beaming all day, and was radi- 
ant now that the weather looked better. He had shown 
us the tea-plant growing on the way, the saffron-plant 
etc., and had told us a good deal about the country and 
the people. He sent us out with 01 



our dinner was being prepared. W 



rndH to fish, whih 
ith us went Ham- 



CH. II 

her would be 

but we voted 

things soon 

1 the " twenty 

way, and we 

The rest of 

we g(,t into 
: set out in a 
while we sat 
lis wife. She 

of an Irish- 
o, but thinks 
^ his "rent." 
? heat of the 

xtraordinary 
glited paper, 

1 his mouth, 
succecdir.g, 

stone. 

found our 
■ St. Joseph, 
ed by hills 
ly; the hills 
ooking like 
vas a farm- 
r '.aig man- 

(1 was radi- 
had shown 

ffron-plant, 

ountry and 
fish, while 

vent Ham- 



at;g. 1S72 



AfX. WHITE. 



25 



mond (who had arrived before to pitch our tents), and a 
Mr. White, one of the afore-mentioned Irish family. We 
were just throwing out our first line, when Mr. White 
said, "There is a great storm coming: we must get 
under the trees." We jumped out of the boats, got 
under some bushes, and pulled a waterproof over us; 
a terrific storm, with tropical rain, came on, and, in 
spite of all precautions, we got (pute wet. When it was 
over, we set off for our encampment. Our guide met 
us on the shore. His spirits were not damped, and 
wiien Colonel Fletcher inquired an.xiously if the tents 
had let in any water, he replied, " Not a drop. Colonel ; 
not a droo." On reaching them, however, we found 
every bed .;nd blanket wet through ! They had looked 
so nice and comfortable when we went out, and now all 
our possessions were soaking. 

We lighted a fire, — for which the Whites sacrificed 
all their nice palings, — and currounded it with the wet 
shawls, and beds, and bedding ; then we pulled our table 
close to the warm blaze, and our cook sent us soup and 
€iitr('('s, and roasts and pudding, and we were quite happy. 
As soon as the things were dry we went to bed. 

We had three tents. In the first we dressed ; in the 
second D. and I had most comfortable little beds, and 
we crept through a hole to get to them. I procured a 
penknife to put under my pillow, to cut my way out in 
case of emergency, for in a panic 1 never ct)uld have 
found the hole. There was a faint possibility of a bear 
peeping in at it, and a pretty good chance of a pig com- 
mitting the same indiscretion. 

Friday^ 2 jd, — The fire was crackling outside my tent 
when I awoke, and as soon as 1). had dressed, I skipjied 
across to the dressing-tent, and got ready for breakfast. 
The day was lovely, and we were all full of anticipation. 
Our guide appeared so radiant and so exactly the image 



26 



^''y CANADIAN JOUR.VAL. 



CH. II 

of the celebrated " Mr m ■ 

;- .oe. by thaf na*. ;|;f „ ■%;' ^--'. ^ «'- „e 

his sl,„n coat, and a ffreat ^h J " ""= "■'»■ "''h 

;'- living pi.L„ „f i;™-:; "x:'::"-''/ 1^"^"' 

liKirt was in the Highlands " ** that "his 

w:>i;r-ir™rrh.'-\rh:r:-^ --"■"■• 

tJay, and caught fifty ba^^ -. "''"'^ pleasant 

-^ an aiiuis^., onrtot;;;^^^^;;:;/-^---^ fi^ 

sat tm> hours in the sunshine . i ''""' ^""'*^ ^o lunch, 
again in the afternoon ' ' '''''' ""' ^" ^^e lake 

'i'iie other party, though unsucre.^fni u , 
" i^riggs,- with his p<>wderflrk ' ; . ^'''' '""• 
or four g,.,, ,„, ^^^^^^^ fi^hin^ , Hn t""'' ^'"^ 
dered his men to start 11. r« ^ ^^""^' "r- 

'" take ten '< rounds" of ''''"'""^^"^'^^ ^'^e gentlemen 

though they fear:d':;.erelT;;;:ir;.^^'''^-^ ^'-'^ ^'^^'. 
they only wanted to see the "b.sh ' Off f/" ^'""' "^^' 
as they rowed along EHggs wo hi V u'"^ ^'"'' ""^ 

words of command' to M^ Ce ^wh^"^' '"' ^'^^'^^^ 
and catch a trout." "Whito m.' , '"^'^'^top there 
which they did ../do and ' '"^^ " ^^'^ here," 

--' i^nggl was to tid I'm "to""' "" ''^'^^ '-^^•^' 
shores of which he promis , ,'"' ""'" '''^'^' °" ^he 
ten yards before he'c "e "'v/:':' , "^, ^^^ -t gone 
h'-eath." and during the " bre.t ' , ""' "'''" ^''^'^'^^ ^ 
^levoured by black flies of v^ i , n'" ' '^"" ^'"""^^l was 
declared there was not one ,f"^^^-'' ^"^^'""'^'>^ 
• severe, as there were ^reu.,„" I T "''"^'"ff was very 
covered with mos thaut ^ " "' r'f'^ '-^"'"^ ''^''-^' -' 
\" ^'-y stepped on t e ;;.;1^" '^'^ "."^ ^ ^^e- "n- 
they sank down between llu '' ^^'■"""*'- "lien 

«nggs-s .^ breath - tik 1 b '"^"^"^^^^"f ^he fallen trees, 
began to fear, not J^!; thJrT^^"^"^?^' ^"^ '' -" 



Ir. B 



n 



«:gs had no not 



ion 



CII. II 

nch " that he 
he was, with 
, on each side 
ock's feather; 
ited that "his 

sh with him, 
■cry pleasant 
>h-water fish, 
me to lunch, 
on the lake 

<^' great fun. 
i neck, three 
e canoe, or- 
■ gentlemen 
^ they did, 

> shoot, and 
y went, and 
• and sharp 
stop there 
ass here," 
ey landed, 
:e, on the 

I not gone 
'II take a 
'lonel was 
'reviously 
was very 
about, so 
them un- 
11(1, when 
en trees. 
J), soon 

> notion 



Auo. 1972 



"J/A". BRIGGS." 



of his way at all, but also that he was keeping himself 
up by rather too many " drops " of brandy ; so a consul- 
tation was held, and they found that if they went on un- 
til the sun set, they would lose their way, and be unable 
to get out of the wood, so they thought seriously of re- 
turning. Briggs began to give more decided orders than 
ever. "White, go and get me a glass of water; do you 
hear. White ? — go and get it directly, sir " — this when no 
water was to be seen anywhere ; then, " White, go and 
find that lake — go on there, and you'll find it, sir"; but 
Mr. White was afraid of being lost Then 15riggs lay 
down, called for his mos(juito-curtain, and D. and Colonel 
Fletcher began to consider how they could get him 
home. They sent him a bottle of ginger ale (without 
any brandy), and soon after drinking that he pulled him- 
self together, and they, steering by the sun, got out of 
the wood. 

They were immenselv imused, but Briggs was crest- 
fallen, and went to bcu, and has never alluded to this 
expedition again. Our cook had shot us some snipe and 
stjuirrels, and gave us an excellent dinner: we tasted 
the squirrels, but they were strong of turpentine and 
were very nasi \ , 

When something was said to Hammond about poor 
Mr. BrigLjs, he said, " And he turned out all hands this 
morning after the roosters to get those two feathers for 
his hat." 

Saturday, 24th, — We had our breakfast down on the 
edge of the lake, and sat a long time enjoying tie sun; 
then we rowed over to the other side to see the pitcher- 
plant growing wild. We also saw a turtle found in the 
lake. At noon we started on our journey home. The 
views the whole way were lovely, and we stopped to 
lunch on the borders of the Jacques Carliei River, lighted 
a fire, and had broiled fish, etc. 



28 



^/y CA A AD/AN JOURXAL. 



I f 



CH. ir 

tradesecfeirA he hairZ:';'""""^-' '='""« "" "" 
received, and the . dy had .aktr' "" """' '"' '""' 
ca.es. Which .he he Jedt'to'ta^l hi:"'"' ""' '"- 

pic/r:^;e:f:i7„:t.''^''''""""'-^-'"'^^-- 

Tucs^fay, 2rth.~.\n the afternoon we went to ... ,. 
lunatic asvlum here Tf ^^ went to seethe 

and is very cle" n "^""^ '" "= «" "'-''«'-J. 

ple"'Mr'''Rr'';f r '"' ""'""" "^ '"en.y.f.ve pe„. 

brea.fas,ed;i.h us, a! d we,u" "?: Z n^' '"""• 
w th I) VV« t,.. I . ^"^ I'niver.sitv 

nine^Her^rL:;^::,tr'=;--^'-'p'^^. ^' 

I-op.ewhohacic::,.: Xr''^;"-^"^'^f ^'''the 
'H.n,^ with Chinese huHen" "" ''''^"^'" "'^'^ 

Society is at present my business in life ind .hi • 
how my week is laid out- Mondu- r . ' ''' 

receive visitors. Tues l-u ? ' ,■'"'"" "' '"""''' '" 

have lar,e dinners ";/l:'r'V'''""''^^^^ 
-c. Saturday we have s:^::,r';;';;^'!^--7. 
we have a "drum " Hi.h...-r . ^ '"«^ '"^^''^s 



CH. ir 

; we talked to 
telling all his 
vere very well 
»e fine plum- 
is fully occu- 

:nt to sec the 
ell managed, 

nty-five peo- 
5'iiitli, M. 1».* 
• I'essenden, 
2re all Cana- 

Mr. Smith 

University 

people. At 

'liich all the 

alform was 

and this is 
at homo to 
iirsday, we 
glil-seeing, 
big flights 
•d our din- 
<> pleasant 

■, Madame 

"drums." 

:. and can 

e Treasu^, 



SEPT. 1872 



r//E U/fSULIXE CONVENT. 



29 



not come unless I diplomatically suggest that the invita- 
tion is a "command." Mourning is kept here in the 
strictest manner, and I believe there is a time fixed for 
keeping down a thick veil- a time for paying mourning 
visits, etc., etc. 

I was "at home'* to visitors, and we had a very 
pleasant afternoon— a few people at a time, instead of 
the rush at an official gathering. 

After dinner we had a drum, at which nearly the 
whole of Quebec ajipeared. They were cheery, and it 
went off well. I tried to have some singing, but there 
was too much talk. The band played, and, unluckily, 
finished its performance with " (lod save the Queen " : 
the instant the f.imiliar bars were heard, half-finished 
ices were thrown down and every one rushed away. 

T/iiirsdijy, AV/A7//Ar j/Z/.—Lady Harriet and 1 called 
at the Ursuline Convent. We took the babies, and I 
was more struck with the peculiarities of convent life 
than when we went through the establishment i)efore; for, 
not having 1). with us, we were not admitted, but had to 
talk to the nuns through iron bars. It was (piitr funny 
to hear them all buzzing inside their cage, laughing anil 
talking, and ha.iding sugar to the babies and admiring 
them! Luckily, they (the babies) l)ehaved well, and 
both examined the curious scene with the utmost 
gravity. 

/>/■(/«/)', 6th.-.\ was writing this morning when D. 
called me to see eight bishops, archbishops, and ,,rr„„Js 
rtr.iiWs who had parti(>u!.irly asked for me. I went into 
the tirawing-room, and found all these ecclesiastics in 
. full dress. ()/„■ (Irand Vicar as usual put every one at 
his ease, and initiated a lively tumversation. 

Immediately after lunch we started off in a small 
srr.iinrr U, tlic oilier side of the river. We were met by 
Mr. and Mrs. Roberts, who came out with us in the /'/us- 



30 



M V CI XA D/A X JO URXA L. 



CH. It 



siivi, and they touk us to the Cliauilicre Falls. Wc ad- 
mired them very much. 'I'liere is a great body of water, 
of a deep brown color, which tumbles down from a good 
lieigiit, and the waterfall is very wide; the cloud of 
white spray looks so pretty against the dark water. 

We also wen* to see a very handsome new Roman 
Catholic church j ist built at New Liverpool. We found 
the priest— Father Saxe— a most superior old man, and 
very good-looking. He is proud of his church, and was 
pleased with our visit. Jle cultivates grapes and a gar- 
den, "which are his wife and children." 

Saturday, 7tli.—\\\ the evening we had a small dinner, 
and as soon as the gentlemen came up we had singing 
and playing. Mrs. I'emberton sang Irish melodies, and 
Madame .Sericole French songs, and M. I,a Rue sang a 
little of everything, and then we had a number of Cana- 
dian boat-songs with choruses. 'I'hey are very pretty, 
the music wild and plaintive. Our old friend, Madame 
Duval, was in great force, and she and her daughter 
dictat il a song to M. La Rue which was rather anuising 
aiul pretty. She (Madame .Sericole) sang, "J will be an 
eel in a pond to escape from you ; " then lie, "Si vous 
vous fuites anguille, je me ferai pecheur pour vous pren- 
(Ire en pe( hant ; " then she, *' Si vous vous faites pecheur 
pour me prendre en pechant, je deviendrai alonelfe," 
etc. This kind of (Conversation goes on to any length, 
till finally she says she will become a nnn, when he 
inakcH himself " pr(}chenr pour vous prendre en pr6- 
chant." This fidelity she is unable to resist, and, " ruis- 
(pie tu m'aintes tant pour te fairc prechcur pour mo 
prendre en prechnnt, I will nuirry you." 

Momfaw V''/'.— Mr. and Mrs. T. Urassey* nnd Miss 
RobinKon dined with us. He has just come from Enj{- 




CH. 11 

lis. W'j ad- 
dy of nater, 
from a j^ood 
lie cloud of 

water. 

new Roman 
We found 
Id mail, and 
ch, and was 
s and a gar- 
mall dinner, 
uid siiiginjjf 
elodie.s, and 
Rue sanjr a 
er of Cana- 
•ery pretty, 
id, Madame 
r da'.ijrhter 
icr aniiisinjf 
I will be an 
i, "Si vous 
voiis pren- 
tcs peelu'iir 

alouctte," 
[Uiy length, 
I, wiien he 
re en prfi- 
md, " Puis- 
r |)our me 

and Miss 
from Knjj- 



sEi'T. 187a 



THE LOCAL LXSTLTUTIOXS. 



31 



land in his yacht, a twenty-eight days' voyage; Mrs. 
Brassey came out in the steamer. 

It'ii//t(\u/(iv, nth. — 'I'lie Bishop of (Quebec and Judge 
Stuart came to breakfast, and at eleven we starteil on 
an educational tour. At the first school separate ad- 
dresses were madj to each of us, and I was asked for a 
holi(h(y. The boys' schools seem almost all to lie under 
the Christian Brothers. The Cure of (Quebec went with 
us. He, like the other priests here, is very "jolly." I 
think we went to si.x schools; at each an address was 
read, and at each we gave a holiday. We also went to 
see the Honors of I'arliamcnt — that is, the hual I'arlia- 
ment. i ' 're the seat of (iovernment was moved it 
was ■ ;)crlal one. It is in good taste ; the outside 

(piite plain. After lunch we went with 1). (wiio had not 
previously been there) to the lunatic asylum. We saw 
as much as we dared to see, and I), just escaped a cup 
of tea which one of the wildest of the patients threw 
through the holes in the door of her cell. After this we 
went to see some Kgyptian curiosities, and 1 hurried 
home to rest for twenty mii.ates before my dinner. We 
iiad twenty-two people, the Hrasseys among the number. 

TImrsJay, t2tlt.— \\ is the experience of a very tired 
person you will now hear, for to-day must be .xilJcd to 
yesterday to understand my feelings. We did not go 
out till two, for I was very busy all the morning; but at 
two we went ilown to the Convent of St. Koch, where 
our reception was most charming, 'i'he nuns re( eived 
us at the door and led us into a very larjfe room, the 
walls of which were lined from floor to ceiling with lit- 
tle children: they each wore either a blue or u red ril)- 
bon, and they were all from three to right years old—live 
hundred in number. About twenty stood in the middle 
of the room and sang a song of welcome, and whenever 
they came to the word " Kxcellence," or " Milor," they 



I 



32 



My CAXADIAN JOVKNAL. 



CH. II 

all courtesied together. Then one came forward and 
made a httle address, adding that this great occasion 
was worthy of '< a double holiday." In his reply D said 
t'u't although he had never heard of that phenofnel 
•n nature « a double holiday," he was happy to grant it 
i hen we went upstairs to see the older pup.ls. I can 
not tcl you what a pretty ceremony it was, and how 
gi cefully they all made their rMcccs together We 
looked at the Church of St. Roch, which is a large and 
ra her gaudy budding. Then we proceeded to the boys' 
schoo of the district, and heard son.e singing, and e- 
ceived an address. We had a large dinner at night 

Jnuiay, yj//,-To our duties again to-day, in spite 
of pourn.g ran,. We began at ten, and visited the H.gh 
School which .s a superior boys' school, and several 
other Protestant schools. 

Mouday, i6th.~\S^ went to the Ursuline Convent 
and were received at the door by the Confessor and 
some other clergy, and by some of the ofticial people in 

^CJ J; u" '""'^"' ''' '''^■^"••^•^ •■'"<• ^'^ Montcalm's 
skull nnt. all was ready, and then we went to the great 

door of the convent and knocked. Some nuns opened 
to us. and conducted us to a large room, where we fornd 
all tne pupils dressed in white and with wreaths of flow- 
ers on the.r heads. They sang a welcome as we came 
n ; then two came forward, and one gave a little address 
" }'-ngl.sh and one in French. All the time we were 
here waves of courtesies kept sweeping along the line 
t-vtry t.me our names were mentioned, and as we passed 
down the room. It was ve-y pretfly decorate<I We 
made a tour of the convent, and heard the pupils plav a 
piece on five pianos and a harmonium at once We 
were admitted to the cells-cold and cheerless places- 

When they see the.r parents, the dining-room with its 



CH. 11 

e forward and 
great occasion 
is reply D. said 
t plienomenon 
ipy to grant it, 
IHipils. I can 
was, and lu)w 
together. We 
is a large and 
•d to the boya' 
iiging, and re- 
■ at night, 
-day, in spite 
iited the High 
, and several 

line Convent 
onfessor and 
fial people in 
t Montcalm's 
• to the great 
nuns o|)ened 

HTC wc foiMid 

.'aths of flow- 
as we came 
little address 
imc we were 
ong the line 
as we passed 
orated. We 
[)iii)ils play a 
^ once. We 
less places — 
ire Inclosed 
om with its 



SEPT. 1873 RECEPTIONS AT THE CONVENTS. 



33 



meager furniture, the children's playground, and, in fact, 
all the sights of the convent, 'llie nuns themselves we 
found most cheerful and happy. 

In the evening we went to a ball given in our honor 
by the Lieutenant-Clovernor, Sir Narcisse Belleau. It 
was held in the music-hall, a very fine room. D. danced 
everything, and I danced the square dances. 

Tuesday, ijtn. — In spite of our fatigues, we had to 
start early to visit another convent, " Jesus Marie," at 
Sillery. Here our reception was too lovely. The con- 
vent has only beon built three years, and is a splendid 
house, with all the ncv improvements, and with fine 
grounds surrounding it. In one hall there are twelve 
glass boxes, each containing a piano, so that the pupils 
can practice simultaneously; while in another glass 
house sits the mistress, overlooking, but, happily for 
her, not overhec.ring. At the door we were met by 
priests, and by the Lady Superior, and we first of all 
paid our respects to the nuns— little black: ladies with 
white, large-boruercd caps. They conducted us through 
passages ornamented with mai)le-leaves, and i)lat'cd us 
on tlirtjiies in presence of the pupils. T!ie children 
were in white, and a circle of twelve of them began a 
dramatic conversation, in which they consulted each 
other as to the best way of doing us honor. One sug- 
gested that the " (lenlus of Canada" .should be asked her 
opinion on the subject, and, like a good fairy, sue imme- 
diately appeared upon the scene, and settled the question 
by giving me a large buncii of artificial rt)ses made in the 
convent, singing meanwhile a song the refrain of which 
v/as — 

" Ce sont dps roses sans Spinel, 
Que Ton vous offre au Canntia," 

The Genius was a pretty, fair girl, wearing a silver 
wreath and a white gown ornamented with maple-leaves 



34 



MY CA.VAD/AN JOURNAL, 



CH. « 

dnd roses. After all fhic fi,„ 

'<»k a, a church, a,„l '^a', cU in ^2l T "'' """ '" 
rushed hack .„ he -at h„„ '■" , I /at !'"' ""' ""-'" 
I had my room full of ^.J^uLlZT'' 

now'ra'r„tt:^:';::r"--"'a„e.„^ 

IVeJnesday, /cfM.-The day of our first ball \X. 
excessively busv m-.Hnrv 1 • ' '"-^^ »aii. U e were 

where we were received by the Univ.r!;. ^ "'"' 

res.ed and ,.ar„/l„„Red ::f:e;";,;"h;;;r'' "'""' "= ^'"■'* 
l'.m.l i„ ihe room .!, T ' '^ *"""' ""'"■' ■"«' » »"■"'? 

rciiy d,d e„ .:; h , e':,:;'' : ^'"••" »'•-'■ •nu.y 

hav. ancher „„ Krida,.. «^"couragi„g, », „ 



AL, 



CH. II 



SEPT. 1872 



THE " STADACONA HUNT." 



ave us cake and 
tlier convent. It 
ng itself up, but 
• way we went to 
ielleau, and then 
ternoon. 

>ree to six, so, as 
'en the hour for 

nore of an event 

ball. We viftxQ 
attending- to all 
eless, we had to 
iversite Laval. 
'i«P, etc., and, 
>iigii the build- 
lie great room, 
y proj)er. We 
vas filled with 

and the Pro- 
iress, and list- 

on the roof, 
'd at the :n 
lere we partly 



3S 



high arched 


■"sf 


of l)liie and 


1 


ik and white 




iiiiitary band 




and a string 


% 


tside and in. 




pirit. Thi-y 


~ 


^giiig, as we 


-' 



Thursday, igt/li.~{.\:iy people that we are! To-day 
wc had a paper-hunt. We started at eleven, 1). riding, 

and I taking two Frenchmen who are staying here le 

Comte de Montebello and le Baron Brun — in the car- 
riage. It poured at first, but cleared soon. W c crossed 
the river in a ferry, carriage and all, and were told where 
to place ourselves; so we were much amused, as we saw 
the jumping perfectly. When the paper was "killed," 
we met at some country barracks, had lunch, and formed 
a "club," "the Stadacona Hunt," with I), as i)resident. 

Frida\\ 2otli.—\\. twelve o'clock I went over a Prot- 
estant home, where orphans and old women have a 
refuge. It seems to be very nice and comfortable. Aft- 
er lunch we inspected an india-rubber manufactory, and 
saw the material from the time it comes out of the tree 
till It leaves the place as goloshes. Then we proceeded 
to a wood-mill, where all carpentering is done by ma- 
chinery, and where we saw our Tadousac house laid out. 
It will be made there, and transported in barges to its 
site. 

We had a second ball in the evening, and this time 
we had an awning on the platform, which was hung with 
Chinese lanterns. It looked very pretty, and it entirely 
prevented any crowd in the ballroom; in fact, it was al- 
most the more popular jilace of the two. 

Saturday, 21st.— \\. E. had suggested some athletic 
sports, so we went down to see them and to lunch with 
the Mayor. There was a very good place for the games 
—a smooth field, surrounded by high grass banks on two 
sides, and with houses on the third. People sat on the 
banks and in the houses, and, as the day was lovely, 
there was an immense concourse of spectators. 

The hills all round, as seen from our celebrated plat- 
form, are of the most lovely autumn colors, and, covered 
as they are with red and orange trees, they really look 



36 



MV CANADIAN JOURiXAL. 



CH. II 

like flames in the distance, or like gigantic flower-gar- 
dens; for our trees are quite as brilliant as your best 
flowers^ and if you can imagine your conservatory mae- 
n.f.ed a million times, and spread over miles and miles 
of lull and dale, you will begin to understand how we do 
things in this Canada of ours. 

Monday, 23d.-W^ left (^uebec to-day, and received 
quite an ovation at our departure. The weather was 
ovely, and we started from the Citadel at three, escorted 
by a guard of honor. The streets were hung with flaes 
and were full of people. At one corner, the boys of the 
University Laval met us, and about fifty of them each 
presented me with a bouquet, so that I was half buried 
with flowers. When we arrived at the wharf, we found 
almost the whole of the society waiting to say good-bv 
to us. The Mayor read an address, and invited us to a 
ball, and D. replied. Then we shook hands with every 
one, and went on board. Every part of the town, right 
up to the Citadel, was crowded, and six steamers full of 
people accompanied us for ten miles. When we got to 
Cap Rouge, the steamers turned back, the people on 
board cheering and waving their handkerchiefs On 
the coast too, at each little wharf, people were collected, 
and at the houses far up on the shore we saw waving 
flags and table-cloths. As we passed the Sillery Con 
vent, all the children came out with flags. No wonder 
we like Quebec! 



% 



CH, II 



io flower-gar- 
as your best 
rvatory mag- 
ics and miles 
id how we do 

and received 
weather was 
iree, escorted 
ig with flags, 
'■ boys of the 
f them each 

half buried 
rf, we found 
say good-by 
t'ited us to a 
s with every 

town, right 
mers full of 
'n we got to 
; people on 
chiefs. On 
re collected, 
saw waving 
cillery Con- 
No wonder 



CHAPTER III. 



ONTARIO. 



Tuesday, September 24th. — The train left Montreal at 
8 A. M., and we were in it till 11.30 at night — a very long 
journey. However, we had a most comfortable car, 
with arm-chairs and sofas, and managed to sleep a good 
deal. In spite of the lateness of the hour we were 
met at Toronto by crowds of people and a torchlight 
procession. The Lieutenant-Governor, Mr. Howland, 
took us to his house, which was magnificently illumi- 
nated. 

Wednesday, 2sth. — A large dinner-party and a very 
pretty ball, the house and grounds being illuminated. 

Thursday, 26th. — At eleven o'clock we started by 
special train for Hamilton. It is a very prettily situated 
town on Lake Ontario, which looks more like the sea 
than a lake. All the streets are planted with trees, and 
there is a high hill behind the town, from which the 
view is magnificent. We were received at the station 
by the Mayor and Corporation, who presented an ad- 
dress, and drove to the Cattle Show yard, where there 
was another, and I), and I walked round the grounds 
and looked at the animals, while the people looked at 
us. We examined prize horses, cows, and pigs, but 
found the crowd so great that we resolved to return in 
the morning to see everything more quietly. We are 



38 



MY CANADIAiy JOURNAL. 



i i ii 

i 



CH. Ill 

-ayi.>S wUh Mr. MoI„„es, .ho ™kes us very c„™,„„. 
wer^t.^":- " '^= ^■^"'^'••™ "^'^. -d 

was finely dressed anH ^^'"";- ^ ^^^ ^hief "Chief" 

y uichseci, and wore feathers in -. k . 
many medals on his breast He carmH h •, ' ''"^ 
of peace, but also had on a srdnin i v ' '"'"'" P'''« 
and a dajreer • inri h ''''" 'P'nR-kmfe, a tomahawk, 

auagger, and he was enchanted when in nil,,.; 
to these weaoons n f^M u- , """^") m allusion 

chiefs sta„d"/bv1„„l!'""^T "■ ""■«"'"'. ""= other 
the Chief , Z,uued i m"' f ', "' """ ""^ "■ ''P'i''''. 

^peech. As .;,::: ;r,,;:r,r;er;rr "''■': 

reception, and afeer„ar<l drove out „ , I , ''""""' 
place belonging to Mr. MCnnJ The '°'^'V°"""'^ 
and then hurried off to the trai"' "' """""• 

In an hour and a half we rp-irh.^ t 
grand and official recemi" ,!ot > °""'' """ "■= 
h".u,r and the Mayor nuf:' tT\ ,'' """" '" 
drove to the Town Hall V,„ """""' »"''•'= 

-.h people, the vi d w, t 1 "^ftt^ "re crowded 
meuted with flurs Th. ' "'" '"""•'" ""'a- 

arches, and thXhole w? "T"™'' ""'^""'" "'"""P'^^' 
■nacle quite a pro ^ i ,,7 ifr; ''' "' """ ""''"''■ >^= 
ing the wav ,Z .T 7' "f ■'="'^""'» '•""' carriages lead- 
'h? ha I I, we^e^.^iir'-Tf"-" "^ """"^ "'« ^ "t 
n. did nm lln.rhis wrin ,- "" """'""" «l''re»»es. 

pected, s" he lu ItT. n J'"""" "' "'^ ^""i™ a'' he ex- 
pleased his aVrnc': Xf ^"^■'"""=' ="" ' "™^ "■»' 
«ter this, we again got ,n,„ the carriages and tlrove 



MrmmiiinM^ 



CH. m 

5 very comfort- 

tion early, and 
refrigerators, 

ind received a 
:hief "Chief" 
in a hat, and 
he silver pipe 
a tomahawk, 
"» in allusion 
ivould rather 

the best of 
'h, the other 
■n D. replied, 
itence of his 
^^ a general 
^'ely country 
we lunched, 

ito, and the 
A guard of 
iin, and we 
'■re crowded 
uses orna- 
1 triumphal 
^ered. We 
iages lead- 
■ met us at 
addresses, 
n as he ex- 
think that 

^nd drove 



SEPT. 1873 



NIAGARA. 



39 



to the hotel through crowds, where we remained as the 
guests of the city. In the evening twenty of the Cor- 
poration dined with us. I sat by the Mayor, Mr. Sheard 
— a very nice man. After dinner we drove out to see 
the illuminations : there were some very pretty ones, and 
the arches looked beautiful. 

Saturday, 2Sth. — The weather is quite splendid, and 
the Corporation took us for a drive. This town is one 
of those wonderful quick-growing places : the streets are 
very wide, and trees are planted on each side of them. 
There are some very handsome buildings and numbers 
of the most charming villas. On our return, we had 
lunch. Our health and the Mayor's health were Irunk ; 
and as the latter made frequent mention of me i.s D.'s 
" kind lady," I am in hopes I made an impression, 

At three, D. had a lev^e, and after this we returned 
to Government House. Another dinner of twenty to- 
night. 

We are thinking of spending a wetk at Niagara, and 
wrote to the hotel-keeper there to ask price of rooms, 
etc. He replied first to the business part, and then 
added, " I should like to know how many guests His 
Excellency will bring with him, as I wish to give a little 
hop while he is here, and I have to write for the music," 
etc., etc. 

P. S. — " The hop and the music will not be charged 
extra " ! 

We declined the "hop." 

Monday, joth. — We have arrived at Niagara, and I 
write to you in sight of the Falls. The spray rises in 
clouds and joins the other clouds in the sky, which has 
a most curious effect, and there is a brilliant rainbow in 
the spray, and I am not in the least disappointed with 
the quantity of water, or with the size of the Fall ; but 
I don't think the first view of it is so overpoweringly 



40 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL, 



CH. m 



SfL' .;™; ai:;^t': ' ^° "'"^ •"" ^' -'^^ 

grandeur of which wHI ml *'"' " " " '«'" ""= f"" 
Juesday,Octoberist.-~\\Q 

-;^. .he .r.j:r.e"HrrLr" '""^" - 
.-"::s":;^;:irar.hr"="^°''^--^-"^ 

"Cave of ,he Winds " iZ "" ^'T'"" " ''''' ""= 

"ally wa, and ^Js.r.J^VlTl:'''' '"^ ""^''^ 
peeled to arrav ourselv« ,, ' "" *"<= "- 

wi.hiaeke,sa„d'hood ; He's' " °"''°'' "™--. 

coutred we descended a mlh, of !, "''""'• '"^ - 
selves a. the foot of a water aU On'' '"1 '"""^ ""' 
-ft Coth shoes, Which en bw'„s to dLbl "'^ 'f' 

Steepest and wettest and m . . ,• *" ''°^" ^'^e 

spray beat in our faces "n r 7''''^ '''''''■ '^''^e 
open our eyes ^o see thl f ""l "^ °"'^ occasionally 
and the grJat hd " ab v^^"'' "'"^^ '" ^'^^ -^-' 
rushing down. We climbed in .^ "'"^' ^^^ ^^^^'^ --« 
small wooden brid/e u'i, '"' "^^ ^^^-^ ^"^^^^ and 
walked behind it in a comn, T ?'"' '' '""^ ^'^^' ^nd 
ioyed it in^mens;;;. 'Z!lTe ^'7'^^-^^^^' ^ut I en- 
-ving passed behind a po ^ 7f m' ''' °''" ^'^^' 
look a funny yellow n-irtv H ^^^^'■^- ^^^^ did 

T/u^rsJr l/lVeZ^' "''P'"^ ^''h water. 

ton, our Min'isler at vt^aThi^r "' 'j ''^ ^^'^^^^^ ^'^-H" 
of the Horseshoe VIl vhTch ''"' T"^' ^° '""^ ^""^ 
greater idea of the ma^nitlt , m ' ^ '^'"'^'' ^'^^« ^ 
view. In the afternn ^'''^^'"^ ^^an any other 

-J!l!!^:^^:^_:;^^ ^" ^he wh^lpoo 



Tlie late General Sir r u .■ ~~ 

"-. SCO,.. .,„, c„„„,.-l^-„^:l7:^f2;;;^;;«..-Gov.,n„, „r 



CH. in 

e that it rather 
a sight the full 
■y by day Sir 

'nvent, accom- 
3s a beautiful 
fter lunch we 
s. 

tie rapids and 
d 'o visit the 
^hat the Cave 

we were ex- 
oth trousers, 
'• Thus ac- 
J found our- 
feet we had 
lb down the 
•ocks. The 
occasionally 
> the water, 
e water was 
f rocks and 
e Fall, and 

; but I en- 
other side, 
• ^Ve did 

ird Thorn- 
o the foot 
^ gives a 
any other 
whirljjoo! 

'overnor of 



OCT. 187a 



BUFFALO. 



41 




and the rapids below the Falls, which are very rapid in- 
deed. 

We went by train to see a great engineering work 
undertaken by Mr. Gzowski.* He is making a bridge 
over the Niagara, close to Buffalo; the piers have to be 
built in water eighty feet deep, where the stream is rush- 
ing along twenty miles an hr .. We saw the whole 
plan — but I will not attem !t to uv.cribe anything so 
scientific. Colonel Fletcher pot on u liver's dress and 
went down the eighty feet, bilngmg u? lome stones from 
the bottom. 

Mr. and Mrs. Gzowski took us for a drive through 
Buffalo. There are miles of '• street " there, arranged 
with the road in the middle, and on either side three 
rows of trees and a broad strip of grass, in the center of 
which there is a stone footpath. Each house is a hand- 
some "villa," with a large piece of ground round it. 
One gets such an impression of wealth and comfort that 
one is astonished, and this is a " third-rate " American 
town. 

Friday, 4th.~?>\v Hastings Doyle left us to-day. We 
were very sorry to part with him, he was always so 
cheerful and such an amusing companion. 

Toronto: Saturday, ^th. — We have hired a ho'ise at 
Toronto, and are settling ourselves in it to-day. There 
is a very bad epidemic among the horses here, and ours 
are suffering from it too, which is inconvenient. 

Tuesday, 8th —\Nq had our first Drawing-room. 
There were about 1,500 pcnple present, and, as I had to 
courtesy all the time, I had plenty of exercise. The 
room looked very handsome when thus filled with smart 
people. This was quite a new experiment in Canada, 



*Col. Sir Casimir 3. Giowski, K.C. M.G., Hon. A.D.C. lo the 
Queen. 



42 



'^'' CANADIAN JOURXAL. 



CH. in 




|f 



lacrosse match. It s almost . ""°"" '« «^^ ^ 
--[is a sort of idea! foe! ba r ^t2^ ^^"^ '^-•^' 
racket and thrown from on. c " "'^"^''^^ ^'" a 

-^y P^etty and ^Z^Z iti' ^ "'^^- '^ ^ 
wlHtes ...nv,. Indians. The iatt!. ^ \''^ ^'"""^ was 
tiance before we left. "^"""^^ "^ ^''^ir war- 

9 A.M., and on our w^tf^r "" '^'' ^"^""^^ ^^ 
«tc>clc to receive addresses T '" """ ''"'^'^'^ ^' ^^^">^1- 
very prettily arran.red' i„,' ' ''''""" ^' ^'"'-'"n was 
were present, and gave us a v'"'' '"'"^^^^''^ "^ P^^P'e 
^'-ve to the Cattle^'Sh ,w ?.r r',""'":^"'^^''^'-- '^^« 
'•>^J^i'-esses, and where h^ V '-•"'. where there were more 

-^ -- in trem:::,:;; s: ^rv'- '-'-^^ 

we saw very little. '^'' "^^^^^ "-S so that 

« "-rci.n«h. proei^i, '";•;::,' ^;:: ^^»■•^ "'■" '■■"-'•«d 

canillf, and r„ck«s 11,.],^^ I ' 'V""''"''' "1' «'>"«„ 
Party..„„l,„,„|,|,/ ''Y'^ .« <^ "en, will, „ ,„^„ 

'"""i;->i"ck, black, ,,n, ',;:,'„",:" t '""""•'" •"= 

saw then <• i , "".xtd with water vv« ..i... 

^-Kmjf tor a well, ..sinking a shaft." 



CH, m 
•e, and it seems 

m the fatigues 
moon to see a 
^' game here, 
' caught on a 
other. It is 
e game was 
us their war- 

'■ Toronto at 
'ed at Wood- 
I-ondon was 
■s of people 
^'Ption. We 

were more 
the pahngs 

"«, so that 

dy Harriet 
entertained 
> some oil- 
;>«! finished 
'P Konian 
'>all, I was 
'i<»t<.'l, and 
le, " Well, 



OCT. 1873 



PETROLIA. 



43 



xceli 



ency 



' ^ large 
i of " pe- 
"I'gh the 
We also 
■•» shaft," 



t-'* 
I 



and all the machinery used. The oil leaves Petrolia 
free from water, but black and thick : the refining is 
done at London. The oil district is, of course, ugly, 
the ground black and swampy. Stumps of trees and 
wooden erections — some like enormous barrels — c( er 
the whole place, but it was very interesting to see it. 
On our way back we were shown into a "drawing- 
room " car, where we found about twenty tables laid, 
each one for two people. We had an excellent hot lunch 
cooked on board, and got back to London at three ^ lock. 
Here the party left us, and we returned to Toronto. 

Saturday, 12th. — Lady Harriet and I inspected an 
orphan home, examining everything from garret to 
basement. On the way we passcil a large house mov- 
ing to some other site. It was on rollers, and was go- 
ing slowly along the street. 

A ditiner-party closed the day. 

7'iifsday, /f//'. — 1). and I drove to see a fine Wesleyan 
church. In the same l)uilding, forming part of the archi- 
tectural effect outside, but separate inside, there are 
Sunday-school and Committee rooms. Then we went 
on to Hishoj) Strachan's Church of Kngland Ladies' 
School. We liked all we saw there very much. The 
girls played and sang and read to us. and as thev had 
decorated their bedrooms we had to go into each one. 

U'fihifsifay, t6th, — At eleven our duties began again, 
and we visited the Normal and Model Schools. These 
are the National Schools of Canada, and members of all 
denominations met us, the Knglish clergyman introdiic- 
ii»g the R. C, Mishop. This afternoon I have been to 
two orphan asylums, this evening to a charity concert. 

Thursday, ijtfi.—h\y children and my brother Fred * 



• I.leul.-Colonpl F. Rownn llnmlltnn. Into ijlh Foot, who wm with 
tt« as A. I). C. in t'nnmla uml Indiu.— II I). & A. 



44 



^i^cw.v^/;/^^v/c;r^A^.,y:. 



CH. lu 



! I 



sail for Canad,. to-day h F , , 
usual hour of eleven, and n.id a vi . ^'"^ ""' '' ^^e 
one of the first-fruit of d'set'h T '" '""''>' ^^""^^e> 
Pecally a Church of Kn^Td ' "'"' '''"^' '^ '« ^- 
-- read and answered ^.^en^'l'^^^'^^" ^^ address 
^'-^ v.s.ted the lii^rary, which ^ "'''""' ''''' "'^'^^*. and 
-^ ^-ve to the lunatic ;/2'^^ '^"^ -all. Then 
a very fine one. with broad cornd ^'""] '"'' ''■ '' '« 
comfortable recesses, in whi^h th '' ^'^^"'"^ ""t into 
e'Kl of the passage is a co e 'V ""''^'' "'• ^^^ ^ach 
-"nd, but otherwise open to the' "'"."''''' '''^"^^' •"' 
^a" walk, and which provid s 1 , 'r' ""''''' ''' '""^ates 
^ach floor. One new featur. i' '"' "^"'"'^ "^ airing 
^ 7-t.nent, which is of^Z T "^'''"'" ''^ ''^ ^'^'^'4 
-" ^''<^ comforts of a private a ,'V'''"^'^^'' '' ''as 
party of twenty-four /onWi ?'"'"; , ''' ''''^ ^' ''''--- 
gentlemen, two R c hi.l. ' " f '" ''''^'-'' ^^^o kyal 
-"•-r of a newspape w IThi' '"'""'^^^ -'""^1. tVe 
-^"^^ for us, son,e 'nl" !r''^ ''"'^ -''^' -ho 

«"'"c of the IJoard of Trade ' ^'"^'^rnment, and 

«■« an adUros., m;,,; ' ;!™;V" '"= °'^ """ 'o re- 
""ed 10 be called " V„rk " „„ '"'"'■"'' "-T»r"n.o 

h"=. After l„„eh we wen iT;"" *"= «-' «'"". 

«s llllcl With a , ,„e Cr t, ■; T"'^"- •'''"■ '■"" 

' « proceed,.,., wen, c^ -c vT'n "■';"'"" "'™' ""J 
}*« for presen.,-a v r^ Herd ""' '' ■•■ "'•''" 
<"'<'■ flower,, !,„„„, fa.cvbr ','""'""'■ ' ''"ve 

1"- <ons,nn,ly. N..., ,; vJry Z k ' "'" """■« '="' 
,T"' Show ,e„t „,e ,,™|!rif7 "*» """^ ""'""It. 

•■'"". arranged .„ a, '^ I nv ' '"""'~' '''' "' "'* 
year. '''"" "ome every day of the 

^ '••"'""'=""""<""" wen. for a „„ 



//.. 



CH. Ill 



-vent out at the 
Trinity College, 
'^ 'lere; it is es- 
^y- An address 
^vcre made, and 
J sma;i. Then 
■ "ver it. It is 
'eningout into 
- s't- At each 
eck, barred all 
'■*-' t'le inmates 
fans of airing 
"Ji is a ])aying 
"^"I'^^'i it has 
^''itl a dinner- 
'fe, two legal 
t-'olonel, the 
t'e wife, who 
'■"nient, and 

^' Hall to re- 
— Toronto 
first settlers 
y. where D. 
The hall 
f Toronto; 
' t'lem, and 
'* a great 
I have 
ifnme sent 
e offering. 
V of each 
ay of the 

for a sail 




OCT. 18-3 



"A'OT A7' HOME." 



45 



with 1)., and in the evening we had a large party of 
al)(>iit 150 people. 

Monday, 21st. — This morning we inspected some Ro- 
man Catholic Schools. The first place we went to was 
the Convent of the " Precious lUood ' I think I told 
you about this order of praying nuns — it is very strict, 
and they use corporal self-punishments. The dress of 
the nuns is beautiful — a white dress, with a btnul piece 
of blood-red colored cashmere hanging straight down 
both the back and the front of it, and a black veil on 
the head. Their beds art^ boards, and they get up twice 
in the night to pray. They looked very well, and (piite 
merry. The second place was a college for boys, and 
the third a convent school. We al.so went to look at the 
cathedral. 

Iheif happened a great coftlretrmps this afternoon. 
I was to be at home to receive visitors ; so I.ady Harriet 
and I sat in state, and nobody camel At five 1). re- 
turned home, and I said to him, "Not a single soul has 
come to see us." Tea came in, and he asked, " Has 
nobody called ?" " Oh, yes," said the servant, "but I 
said, ' Not at home.' " We sent for the book, and found 
104 people hail been, so we had to sit down and write 
104 notes to explain. I had a dinner-part} in the even- 
ing, and, luckily, no one seems to have been offended, 
though our conduct did look rude this afternoon. 
We had a great deal of music after dinner. All the 
young ladies sing and play without their music, and are 
very good-natured about it. 

Wednesday^ ijd. — D. visited the National Schools in 
the morning, and after lunch I went with him to finish 
the Roman Catholic institutions. We drove to the I,o- 
retto Abbey Convent, where the girls were dressed in 
white and blue. They gave ub a little cr»ncert, and then 
all passed round, each making a courtesy to us, Wc were 



46 



f i 



* 



^'y CA.VADi^jv JOUKKAL. 



'^den with bouquet, and ,h 

!''•'« a:, a ■■ House of vlT ) '"'"'>'''■ '''I'': next 

'"".^. or,>l,.„. and si^k a 'e fn""'" ^"""' "'".■"-- 
V-. «s o a b„,v .eh';,": , ,=;-.^ '-; T„e ,hi,, 
'/""-JVl/r, ^^«,__I „„,, ""^^ '-'"•istun Brother, 
"■is n,or„i„g4 n„e S,":" '^ ■''"™""' "-.- , 
'«ly off for f„„d, p 't f ;;" "";" """aged, but 
,ash,„„able young ladies'scroir' ^^ '" ""^P"^" '« 

'^^^i two ballrooms bolh I '" ^'overnmcnt. We 

^^f crimson drapery, "^ ornamented with a good deal 
-7 -n. T,le fu; r:^ t^'-^'^^ Winch i^hted , 

he arrangements, atd opl r\"? ""^ ^ ^'^^'h i„ 
i'-^^h. I danced all the I'uL > '""^ '"'' ^"^ 

f '■>"-«. vvith a selection of 'ceil >■'"''"' '''"^ ^^- ^'very 
g'amme was over «f 1 ''^''''"■'t'es. When the nr 

^^- 'lad to be off f« „ ,, 

>:: Xi'^::!:'- ^•"■•"■"-"Jrl,, '::,•;"-■ >■'". -.= 

J"«*fe8 salaries; (h,« ,.f "*^ '"vvness of 

<•■"' were very gh,d t., h™ "'"""' "«•• ™'"Pany prel 

^''«"'Pour and they hall; be:^!'!::.'^"' ^''^-^ is a stel^ 



P"l off tiJl M 



•ady 
""day. I 



'AL, 



Cil. HI 



OCT. 187a 



SUNDAY SCHOOLS. 



47 



^ere ornamented 
'^'^''''- The next 
«'''f're old, incur- 

f"--- The third 
"•istian brothers 
oronto Hospital 
U managed, but 

to inspect two 
' "ot home yet. 

^s a great sue- 
'i 't took place, 
t'ernment. We 
'i ^ good deal 
'^'h lighted up 



rs. I 



suppose 



'ot a hitch \n 
ery nice and 
ind D. every 
'•t-'" the pro- 
was played, 
e passed out 

'lis 'norning, 
^e, when we 
''''ing, "Os- 
''t'»er than 
'«• We had 
'"<-• blot he 
'owness of 
ipany pres. 



-n athletic 

< a str.'nli, 

/ 

onday. J[ 



.^( 



received a good many farewell visits, and in the evening 
we went to a pertormaiue at the theatre for the I'rutes- 
tant orphans. The theatre is small, but very pretty, and 
"London Assurance" was very well given— especially 
the part of Lady Gay Spanker, by Mrs. Morrison. She 
presented me with a spU-iidid bouquet in which my 
monogra.n was made in shamrocks. 

StiHiiiiv, 2/th. — This morning, at ten, we visited a Sun- 
day-school. Very great attention is paid to Simday- 
schools in Canada, and the children of all classes attend 
them. There was a separate room for infants, and the 
man teaching them gave his instruction orally and with 
a blackboard, upon which he wrote: the children an- 
swered all together, and seemed bright and intelligent. 
They also sang hymns. The larger children were down- 
stairs. I), made them a little address, and we heard 
them sing too, which they do extremely well. This was 
the cathedral school, and the average attendance every 
Sunday is 500. There is a class every week for the 
teachers, and the same lesson is given all over the school. 

M >ni/uv, 2Sth.—\\'ii left Toronto at nine, and a num- 
ber of people came to see us off, and cheered our depart- 
ing train. We had a twelve hours' journey, and were 
glad to reach Ottawa. 

Ottaiva : Tui\u/(iy, 2()th. — My poor children have had a 
very long journey : they arrived at Quebec on Monday, 
after a rough passage from Liverpool, and did not get 
here till this evening, when I devoted myself to giving 
them tea, putting them to bed, and hearing them cha i' •. 

Wfifnfsday^joth. — The weather is perfectly lovely, and 
the children are well and enjoying the fine day. 

Mr. Coidson goes on leave, so Fred at once begins his 
duties as A. D. C, but he comes in for a time of rest. 



M' 




CHAPTER IV. 

very duJi, / .e^r yvT ''^ J^"'""^'*' her,, u.;/, 

, Ottawa is a small t ^ 

"">es „f ehe year. """' "'=)' "ay be i„ a, other 

' "e s-eiillemen trv .„ j 

] h'" comes of my Irish f. ^'•««si"gs.- 

• '^^-"-tiy after lunch. Fred ar,.n.,.„ 






NOV. 1873 



RIDE A U HALL. 



49 



here will ffrow 
"' and do very 

ousJy f.eautiful 
^ery bad road 
•-storied villa, 
a hedge which 
It at this time 
^- ^V'hcn the 
'es, and when 
^^ Jndepend- 
nakes the in- 
^ Jn at other 

i come back 
"ic day with 
the evening 

of our fine 
town. v,he 
'. and . ;, 



t? i \n 



^an 



our duties. I was '< at home," and he announced the 
visitors and helped me to talk to them. We had 108. I 
was pleased with the society, and Ottawa itself improves 
on ac(]uaintance, especially as I have discovered a 
nice common and wood behind the house, where the 
children will be very happy. Mr. Archibald,* Lieuten- 
ant-Governor of Manitoba, and the Pattissons dined 
with us. 

In addition to his social duties, Fred has to look 
after all the stable matters, expenditure included, after 
the invitations, the amusements, such as skating-rink 
etc., etc., so he is not idle. * 

Tuesday, j///.— The little ones, Basil and Hermie, ar- 
rived from Quebec, looking well and merry. It is nice 
to be all together again. 

Saturday, p///.— The weather is lovely, and I gener 
ally walk in and out of town. After lunch, games of 
football, stilts, hoops, etc., go on. We have five-o'clock 
tea, and family gatherings, the babies first, and then the 
<?/r/ children. 

The house gets on very slowly ; the hall door is st.ll 
boarded up. the .schoolroom full of workmen who do not 
vv.,rk the gas-p.pes still innocent of gas. I suppose we 
hall be settled by January. The Fletchers' hoL will. 
I hope be ready for them in a few days, and whe.i the; 
get mto .t we shall feel more settled ourselves. At 
present they are staying with us. 

Sunday ,oth.-\S^ went to our verv small parish 
church at New Edinburgh. It is very pru^itive. I't we 

cathedral"'''"'' """"^ '' '' '" "'"''' "'"■"■ '" "' '''^'" ^''« 

Afonday rrth.-^^ took a walk to prepare for the 

labors of the afternoon. Between three and five I re- 



' Sir Adams George Archibald, K. C. M. O. 



so 



"" ^■^^'^I'r^.v foa^^,,^ 



i 



;^.^'^«dr44 Visitors; Fred I .w x. 

^'««°" helping n.e. ^' '^^^>' ^---net, and Mrs Pa, 

Thursday^ /^///.-This i. T. " 

went to ciiurrh n. .i ^^^^nks^ivinrr n. 

-^) -e did it ,'^ ^ ^•'^^'^^dral, but^(as t J' ^" "« 

snow fel,. ''" ""ostentatious n^anner ' ' rT' '''' 

p -J ^'' X ne first 

S^und and ,ree» wlVi.et ■''" '"''" ''"'■" Oa y .h. 

•"mhled about i„ a' ,h '""': "' " "'•'" ""y or/n«f' ? 
^'O" should se , t^'^ " -™ sand' '"°"'' """ 

^" ifoniff out here is fh °^'- '^''^^ "nly driwhT 

do fn ,. -^ the amount nf ,? . ^ ^"^'^wback 

-^-^psw.h;:;:.t-r;--heputot^;^ 

f/^ •-•« possible, fur coats f, '''*^ "^'^'^ ^''em as becom- 
^^"t ;nce out it is ,e,i^,,; ' ' ^''^^'^^ '"•"fs. etc., etc 

. ^^'^' 'lave been tc.bLl. ' • i ,"'"'' ^■^•'"•'arating 
"<^ep yet anH ""ffW^aninjir thoutrh fii« . 

We sit V;.^ ""' P""^^^*^"* efforts J. '""^ ''^ ""t 

J^« 't. stand, or he on a strait k ^^'"^ ^"'ateurish 
''' ^' -^ -d. and shde do;?l:?::i;:f '-"s curlei 

'^ -rtrrcd hills. The 



AL. 

-^ and Mrs. Pat. 

'"8^ ^ay, so we 
s the papers telj 

ner." 'ru^ c 

ine first 

^ Australia, the 
''^dat 9.iothis 
"^'^t- Rather 
^^'a re-echoes 
'I Empire." 

'^'^ tJay: the 
y. and bri;^i,t 
' ^ere unable 

of snow, and 

coats, which 
■Paulets and 
d with red. 
'^e httle n^. 
'n"e. T..ey 
ds if neces- 
^'ley are of 
'th a flower 
' fJrawback 
""e has to 
"«■«, over- 
o" ; there 
as becom- 

efc., etc. 

'w is not 
ateurish. 
is curled 
's. The 



NOV. 1873 



TOBOGGANING. 



51 



children enjoy it immensely, and have splendid exercise 
pulhng their little sleighs, or toboggans, up the hill 
again. 

The "Black Rod," Mr. Kimber, was one of our 
guests at dmner to-night. He sang us one of Figaro's 
songs, acting it with great spirit, and amusing us very 
much. He also sang some very pretty Canadian boat- 
songs. Another guest was Miss Griffin, a lady who 
acted m a play with Dickens at Montreal twenty years 
ago. 

Wednesday, 20//1.-D., Colonel Fletcher, Fred, and Mr 
Campbell (D.'s short-hand writer, and a very favorite 
member of the Staff), went to Montreal. 

Saturday, 2jd.~l had a long letter from D., giving 
me an account of his doings. After a long journey on 
Wednesday, they reached Montreal in the evening and 
were conducted by the Mayor and Sir Hugh Allan to 
the latter's house. 

On Thursday D. unveiled the Queen's statue, and in 
the evenmg he danced all night at a ball, never flagging 
till four in the morning, and being pronounced "a brick " 
by the young ladies of Montreal. He had a dinner at a 
club on Friday, and returned here to-day, fatigued but 
pleased. We are both going to Montreal in January for 
a " season." 

Wednesday, ^/M.-We are gradually settling down in 
our house, and are dragging from obscure packing-cases 
the few ornaments that have emigrated with us. I have 
set up a boudoir, and in it I put all my favorite things, 
so as to have one home-like sanctum. The state-rooms 
continue, I fear, to have a hopelessly company look. 

We had a dinner >arty of twenty-six, a great number 
a Ministers amoi g them. There is no clock (going) in 
th." drawmK-room, so my guests fidgeted oft before ten, 
and had to wait in the cloak-room for their carriages. 



W^ 



52 



My 



•''^"'AN JOVKXAL. 



I I 




"■h^""- person „„,„,^^^. ' 

"'■re was snow i„ ,!,„ ,f,. 
;P « >c do.,We wincow,'";?,":™-"- """ >-' "= Seu.ng 
"ira »„,dows, but stuff c„ti„„- ' ," ""• ""' ""ly U.c 
•"'- houses are very hit " "■°"' ""° "-^ crevice 

; "ve in a sleig,,. j ,„i„k~iV''^\'';-'>' ' "■™' '""• ■"- first 
"■"^ - a iittle n,ore snow ,'t ' nf " '">' "■"^'> -I.en 
I «-ll tell you I,, _ '' '* ratlier rough at present 

'-afefast at nine, then eparaf T "'""""y "'y- > 'e 
""d places of business F. . " ""^ >'='"ous offices 
^"'erward helps to wr he f„ ^"^ '° "'= tables and 
-""anagestL soc^?^ "r""'"' "^Sh Mr c„^ 
8° "«o town. We lun'h ^r ""' ^' "'''" '"ey a, 
generally alone, the ^e„^^ ""'-'he children ami 
,Afer lunch we go ou T "'""'"^wLen thevl / 
'»'"■ I ■h..k, we sha ha e '7;f "" " '^ ^ "uty, but 
"ur return we have tea and h "" '"■' "' "oors On 

a ?.3o. The Fletchers' c^'^f '' """ ^^"^'"' : dinne 
°ne or two large dinners Te v wee"t "" "= ""« -"■« 

'""^- One's foot loo£ ike /"T?'"''' '"■• ">e firs, 
'arge racket, ai I . ^ '" '" the center r 

-'""-^ "" 'f,nd t :•;,';.:'=" •" '"p up . ; ti 

very amusing. With., , '7^:7 '° T^"'' '^''" ">™. and 
"'"Idle of the beat.., track n,,™" "'^ '" '" P in ' e 

;Td ^'t "■' f- '-vit';:^ '-■^^ •^-*"ah, are stay- 
»"d m the afternoon we all L / ' '"• » "leigh-drive 

One ::^'r'''"'-■•«^•-es::■ '-----"- 



CH. iV 

"d it is useless to 

'd we are getting 
avf not only tlie 
to every crevice. 

^•<^"t for my first 
■'eryniuch w]^^^ 
^"gh at present, 
"ary day. \\q 

/arious offices 
le stabJes, and 
"S^h Mr. Coul- 
-feven they alJ 
hi'dren and i 
hen they Jikg. 
'^ a duty, but 
)f doors. On 
^•■en ; dinner 
2 have either 

for the first 
center of a 
"1 niy own 
h them, and 
'*' P ill the 
with th';ia 

"' are stay- 
"ff I ('-ok 
e'fh-drive, 
"ff dinner- 

■mploying 
: tol(! me 



DEC. 1S72 CANADIA.y CELEBRITIES. 

that when he came here himself he earned ten shillings 
a month Mr. Tod, the librarian here, was another 
guest. He ,s the author of the best book on the British 
Constitution. Then there was a railway celebritv.a 
very nice man, who got out of a sick bed to come • he 
brought with him a pleasant sister-in-law and a very 
pretty daughter. Sir Hugh Allan also duud with u^ 
and Sir Francis Hincks. 

Saturday, 7///.-Lady Macdonald left, and I went out 
to .<ee some tobogganing. The high hill .s sufficiently 
covered with snow now, and the children are very brave 
about going down it. They start at the top and go 
bumpmg and jumping all the way down, sometimes 
tumbling over into the snow at the bottom, and some- 
ti,a.s going along the level ground for a good distance 
. 1 c ly they looked so odd, all covered with snow while 
thege-lemen-s beards, eyelashes, and hair, had the snow 
froz. o them. The thermometer was 10° below zero, 

but the day ■ .s bright, and wc did not feel the cold at 
all. loil.n, the hill and pulling the toboggan after 
one, IS hard work. 

Mon^iay gth.^On^ of my e.xhausting "at home " 
days. My labors began at ,.30, for I had the managers 
of a concert I am getting up to lunch, and went on' till 
s.x-a steady flow of visitors. It was a very cold dav- 
luckilyfor the conversation required of me-and ninetv- 

d"!! ;::""?■?/'' " "^^ ^"'^ y-' ^^^^ ^^ve found your 
drive! did I invent. On these occasions D. comes in 
when all ,s over and asks •< what news we have heard " 
and we always have to say that we have heard nothing. 
I generally keep Mon.iay evening sacred to repose, but 
-day we were < Miged to invite travelers, and two 
lorontonians, the Pattissons and Fletchers making up 
twelve. Our tourists came to Aiaerira fn. ten m- • -h 
D have found traveling so very expensive that they 



: > ii 





54 



^/K C^A'W^y^^VV06'A>.r^Z. 



CH. IV 



have to hurry home at the end „f , 

-day. at a N.. Yor^llZ'^Z ^''" ""' '" 
■Tuesday, I oth~-.\\ i,, i '*=' 'So^- 

-me and toboggan and it "J' 7' ''"' ^'^""^ ^-^ to 

J^nglish hats!-vvhen /]-,!, i T ^'"''''' ^'^'^ ^oots. 
o^ cloth with ind,a. b : J" ^'T ^""^^^^' ^^'^ 
are necessary, i o„]v u f' "^ ^'°^^^' ^"^ fur hats 

>-^-s-" oL /ooth' fooCror"' '^' '^'^ "p --^ 

'" the carriage with cot ? ^^'^ '^'^^ ^ame out 

^ad a fearfufattack o ^.^^^ ^"^ ^-^'^^ '^"ots, has 
and two Sisters of Mercv .r . '"^""^"^^^"''y ''heumatism, 
day, Terence, having a hole i""' ""'""^ ^^'"^- ^^^^^^- 
ho'»e with his fingfr frost bt. "" °' '" ^^°^^^' -'- 
-■spicious White spots nie'f::: '"' ^''^"^ ^^^ ^^o 
with snow, and are all right ' ''^ ''^'^ '""^^^^ 

«-'":ri^'re-hVrarr''°"'-^-"--e- 

0"awa weeks. After he WeSre'lT h' ■"" "«"'" 
"■gilt; the,, a visit from , J ^" '''""'='■ a quiet 

and Mrs. Tupper who "'"" ='"'' 1"^ wife, Dr • 

•he next nighff:m:or:;re' *"%"*'" ^ ^-^ '^ ^ 
-ur Langevin, and Mr. M s"h„°"' "J'^-«°"- 

preferred returning home to .,f ?" ' "'"'= '»"" 
liked their own stove side or h ''' ""^ '"=<=^"^e they 

____ J_^^_o^ out-door nnk, and find it 



\:4 



\ I' 



III 



"" CH. IV 

Their bill for 

young: men to 
-26 to look at 
•s, thin boots, 
trousers, boots' 
5» and fur hats 
' laid up with 
■ho came out 
ler boots, has 
' rheumatism, 
I'm. Yester- 
gloves, came 
"y had two 
were rubbed 

skating-: the 
rink. The 
snow hard 

nner in the 

=»"r regular 
ler a quiet 
wife, Dr.* 
and a visit 
'ife~Mon- 
lese latter 
:ause they 
:t day was 
olentpoli- 
as a prob- 

id find it 



DEC. 1872 



MAKING A RINK. 



55 



rather troublesome to manage. An Englishman ex- 
claims, "Flood it!" but this is just the difficulty, for 
the water freezes as it touches the ice, and will not 
" flood it " ; and if, by having a circle of barrels round 
the space and upsetting them all at the same time, we 
do succeed in covering it with water, and go happy to 
bed dreaming of beautiful ice and a capital skate, we 
wake in the morning to find either that it has snowed, 
or that the wind has blown old snow over the rink, 
which a ray of sunshine having partially melted, has 
stuck hard to our lovely ice, and there we are longing to 
skate and obliged to begin "■ au dduge " again. 

Wednesday, iSt/i.—\Nt had a ball. The room was 
well lighted and looked well, the supper (by the new 
cook) was very, good, and I hope every one was happy. 
Sir Hugh and Miss Allan arrived for it, and remain till 
Saturday ! Colonel Fletcher was told that " Mr. Hamil- 
ton will be spoiled here, people like him so much." 

Friday, 2oih.—K great snowstorm. I was to have 
gone to a mission service in church, but I could not face 
the weather. D. did go, and afterward inspected the 
Christian Brothers' school, received addresses, etc. 

Monday, 23d. — This morning we visited the Grey 
Sisters, and saw their school. Then I came home and 
arranged my concert-room with stage, etc. 

The Belgian Minister at Washington arrived in time 
for an early dinner, and is staying with us. At eight 
the singers arrived, and began to dress, and at 8.30 the 
listeners came pouring in, were cordially greeted by His 
Ex. and Her Ex. at the door, and were seated by oblig- 
ing A, D. C.'s and secretaries. 

The music began at nine— it really was very good, 
and the acting admirable ! The costumes were perfect, 
and every one was delighted with the two hours' amuse- 
ment. 



56 



^^y CAA'AD/AJ^ yoc 



'^^'AL. 



^ allowed the three ch 



en. IV 



enjoyed it immensely 



garo," and 



'I 



ildren 



^-^rence wa 



ey 



to '>e present, and th 
- was in fits over « V 

''P^^ at eleven, and the 



great anxiety th 



wh 



ole entertainment 



faces, 



Ttu'Sihiy, 24t/i.^o^ 



was considered 



W 



two knees, and 



th 



IS 



really 



a great success. 



IS cold ; t 



e are 22° below 



'^"^' ''"ger frozen 



>n which we wall 



^ero, and are d 



ow. I, 



ev 



are very thankful to think 
cold we need expect here. 



' -'^Pite of thi 



that 



we 



wo ears, two 
'" our family 
voted to our clouds' 
"■^ ^^'e skate, but 
are feeling the 



We 
Worst 



C/irislmas Day ~^'vu,',^ 
*- •-!>-», a,K, nu^r - ':: *■'•' •" '■•"-•I. in seJ- 

=ncl my clu„d, fur sauntlots ",. ;, V"^''-- "^^ ">y cloak, 

""c ■" l).e cl,„rcl, is <,„„,,' ,' ''"■''«! : happily, every 
«"" be sarprised ,„ I, a >'"'■"'', "";"•"'« "P- 1 '., you 
;;-' 'o do In May a. ,'„ . ".f """f '^ '«» ".a„'l,e 
""-• old at all. 4,1 ,, ' ■ •""'.-'^■'■■•■ely see,ns l„ f^el 

l"\ "' "- ears, a, ;,",.;"',: ".","■ "iH. ,l,ee,cep 
He ,s always feeling ,1 ,.„ d i'" '.'. "'•'«'"">' "-'rvoas. 
""'"l-er .Ley are frt.e T 'il'l"'"-' '■■■"" "■'-"-'■y 

1 l-e.r nnrse. Afrs, „,„ .'''> ""•'"selves immensely. 
.^:;«,"-n e„„„„ed l,y„,^ !:,""; "■"H'"'^' "P. L... 
' ''<-'f irnverness is leami ur , , " P'"'' "' 'I'ates. 

.'"Ily fear s„n,e a .^f ';; "''" ""'"'' "'"P "P, and 
I""; "ill make her ,.aref„| "^ """"'"•' '"" " f™sl- 

. ».e have arrnnire<l a el,,-; , 
'"-^ "II "..■ rlnldrentf he l^T'"""?- "'"' ""•» "■""• 

"-"■'ive,and,i,e:,,tnr:''';'i'.r;:.'''''''^ 

J vthti their gov- 



^1 



i- 



ClI. IV 

'sent, and they 
fits over " Ff. 
'"le to under- 
even, and the 
*t success. 

fw" ears, two 
' "I"- family. 
• ""r clouds, 
'^■■'tc, but we 
'^iJ the worst 

zero. Pro- 
"■*''! ill seal- 
"^^''■t-'.as we 
t'lc amount 
2 my cloak, 
; there are 
"<' gloves. 
P''y> every 



DEC. 1872 



SA'A TING. 



17 



n., 



you 



s than he 
ns to feel 
'le exrop. 
' nervous, 
•issers-hy 
the snow 
iniensely. 
r lip. I)U( 
f skaU's. 
'lip, and 
a frost- 

ii even- 

They 
ir jfov. 



ernesses and nurses, were ushered into the room with 
great ceremony. Hermic rushed at a doll. " There is 
my doll," and kissed it most fervently. Of course they 
all got various presents, and the big ones dined with us, 
and afterward played blind man's buff, snapdragon, etc., 
etc. 

The pictures have arrived, and are a great improve- 
ment t(j the house. In my room I have drawings of 
Killyleagh and Clandeboye, and there are a few oil- 
portraits in the dining-room, which make it look home- 
like. We shall be (juite sorry to go away next week, to 
undertake a long journey in the snow, and to be a month 
in hotels. 

Mr. Pattisson's Irish cook came to tell him that, hav- 
ing had her hand severely burned and blistered by lifting 
a cold iron pot, she would go home by next steamer. 
He pretends there is not one to go in. 

FiiJay, 2jth. — We continue every day to practice our 
skating. I can get on very well with ordinary skating. 
I), can go backward and do tiie figure of eight. Fred 
is beginning the outsiile edge, and is studying the art 
with great care. The children arc not industrious: they 
fin J n\aking snow houses and tobogganing much more 
amusing than lamely shuffling over the ice, so I think 
they will be long in learning. 

S(jfur</,ry, jiS^/i. — Tins morning we visited the "Con- 
gregation de Notre Dame," an educational convent, 
where Nelly was shown a Christmas-tree, and told to 
choose what she liked best on it. In spite of my nudges, 
truth would out, and she took a very pretty doll instead 
of the insignificant present I was trying to suggest to 
lier. 

Directly after lunch I went down to the Rink to re- 
ceive my ci,.jti„g,p3r^y !t went off estremely well. 
Some of the young people skated most beautifully, Miss 



58 



^'^ CANADlAAr JOURAAL. 



T, , . , CH. IV 

Patrick and Mis^ i<r.-r.„ c , 

'he best porJ!!::^"'^^:^? '"' ''"'^ «'"^. ^-« 

well done, and .hesce„ao,fK„t i,T' *""'""^'■- 
tobop,„i„,, down the hill mZ' A "^ ' "' P'°P'» 
"« d,a „,,. fee, e,ual to ska ^tef r "sIT "'^^'^'^'' 

When It became cold w„ ,. '^'' experts. 

- -.<! mulled claret a,;ddarc!' T" ""' ''""'' """" 
■-••"1 1" repeat these , art t oLT ?° ''°"^- '''<' '"■ 
was <,uite a surprise '. h ^t „ ' u^t Z ' '"'" ''""™'« 
"Pected now, an<l parcels of .'l,? "V™'"' " "'" ''= 
'"'"» will he brought next s'rn' ""'°"'' """"'■ 
Penscd with on this occaTon '• '''"'^ ""'^ "«■ 

^-••cJ. rough rut,s, Tl.is is tret^;„ '""^ ^^^^^^ '"'" 

thus.astic over its deli^h r, T.^^^' '" ^^ «"' 

^^Pt here as a v.itin«-dav' Alf:;: Z ''""'^ ^'^^ '» 
;-^' all the gentlemen visa n ' ^ 'T''"' ^^'^'^ '' "-^e. 
from three to five and receive 1 V ''"■" "^* ''"'"e " 

^t was a most lovelv d?v '-^ '"""• 

ten degrees of frost, w i h^Cs'" ^'"^^ '>--^''". with onlv 
^V.th the exception of a few "'r/r:'"'^^ "'^ ^' ""^w ' 
been perfectly con.f„rtable t f. "'''""^- ""'^ ^^^^ 

we are so well wrapped uo w. "' ''' **" ^a'"'". and 

not feel cold. ' ' "'' ^''^" ^« «" out, that we can 



CH. IV 



'"y girls, being 

graceful when 
r^y; everyone 
lots of people 

t^" my skates, 
'ch experts. 

house, drank 
lour. We in- 

'i iie dancing 
irse it will be 
•ious decura- 
ch were dis- 

'leighing are 
le as driving 
^wgets into 
^t to be en- 
id the red 
t. I think, 
r's Day is 

»y at home, 
' at home " 

with only 
^ca (haw! 
'. We have 
^'arm, and 
*t we can 



1 



CHAPTER V. 



MONTREAL. 



S/. Laivrence Hall ; Sunday, January f/Z/.— We left 
Ritleau yesterday, had dinner at I'rescott, and reached 
Montreal at night. A very successful winter journey, 
for had the snow been troublesome we might have been 
days en route. The Mayor met us, and we drove to this 
hotel, where we have taken rooms for a month. Our 
own cook and servants arrive early in the week and ar- 
range everything, while we go down to Quebec for a 
hall. The rooms we have here are very clean, but very 
hotel-like, stiff and starch, and I shall not feel much at 
home when 1 receive my guests in them. 

Monday, 6tli.— \\c went early to the Rink, which ve 
were curious to see. It is a great place, 250 f. et long, 
of smooth, dull-looking ice, which reminds one of wax, 
and which is covered with scrapings cut off by the 
skaten; there is a raised walk round the ice for non- 
skaters, and a gallery at one end. The roof is arched. 
Most of the skaters were children of four years old and 
upwards, going backwards and forwards, Dutch rolling, 
making eights -looking as if they had been born on 
skates. There was only one young lady there, ^ •jry 
pretty and a splendid performer, Hrr skating is the 
mtist bcautifiii, jffarcfui thing i.ih- < ,ui mt, Hkaimji is* 
particularly pretty for ladies, as the dress hides tlo ma- 



6o 



^y CANADIAN, joUA^^^r^L, 



If III 




^'^'nery which is visible when men ^. 

^'"k 's dull, however, I thi k , ''"• ^" '"'door 

^f doors. ' ^'^'"^' ^<""pared to skating out 

VVe went down to the >;f-.f: 
two good bedroon^s ^^,; ""r ".^ ""' '' ^-' ' '-^1 
--car. Mrs.De;th.^ ,;tu'''^'^'"^^"''■ 
»'« i^x.'s short-hand writer n^^^^^ ' -"ing-roo,„. a„d 
occupy a couch opposite ^Ct^^ " T "'^'^^^'-^ ^« 
'"to .t with his hat on, whi^' / "^''^' ^''^'^ J^'n^Ped 
g'-^ve an air of respectability to T"'"'" ''' ^^""^'^^^^"^ 
^•■»« 8:'g«:Iing at him under h.^ ' P'-o^eeding. De.u 
«'m.sed when, later, the h t f '"'' '"^' "''''-^ ^''" "^^re 
''^ J'ttle man pulled h,s d tl^'"!""^'^ ^""^'^ "^^' -^^1 

^-^s,/uj, .,/,_;ve .avok ^^^' "'''■ '^'-^ head. 

*- ^'t a parsing s aUo.^ i;; ""^: ^" "^^-' ^^ cup of 
twelve. ** '''^'""' -^"^ armed at Quebec at 

■-.and wee accon.pa, ■', , ' „;™'". ™""'8>l.r„„g? 
'" 111., h.-tol „ver t/,e m,M L ■'"'■ "'^^ ''™« "P 

quite amusing: il sk^Z ,""""•' •"" '" •"'"""•• is 

-cep.i„„ weie. wi.rL":; ^^irr'^' ^■"^- -™ 

r-f'^™'-»--^:;^'^;;d'SeC:: 

«i"k. where r; i, „~ H ,' "':'■"","•' "■■ ">■'••"" w<^nt lo ,h, 

'"■'i- "f Q.,.„ . ';;:'":*!" "'"'■*' '■)■ a" .i« ,-..,; 

""-■noon w. „,;„,j .^'"„ ™ '7- i"'"",. I„ ,|,e 
'•'-"'■■■, Tl,i, ,„„ee i„ , ' ' "'' "'""' "f '"y l.om. expc 



JAN. 1873 



CITIZENS' BALL. 



^1 in-door 
o skating out 

JJ- and I had 
eds in a Pii||. 
"g-ro<;;„, and 
' expected to 
hyly jumped 
B considered 
■<^''"J?. Dent 
'^ still more 
"t^^tl off, and 
is head. 
e a cup of 

Quebec at 

, the river, 
'un shining 
'ig through 
L' drove up 
snow is in 
another is 
rhe Warm 

band was 
'. Ijut too 
-K'giuiiers 

It to the 

'«* young 
III the 
v.iiiiined 
'H'pxpe- 
try.and 



6t 



The Citizens' Ball took place to-night. It is one 
given for us by the city, and for which we were invited 
to return when we left in the autumn. It was a splendid 
entertainment. 'I'he room was decorated with our colors, 
and with wreaths of roses, and there was a large recep- 
tion committee, who took great care of me ali the even- 
ing. 

Thursday, gth. — An excursion to Montmorency was 
arranged for to-day, but I did not go. At noon, forty- 
two sleighs, each driving a tandem, came to the door, 
and I), got into the first in a snowstorm. Tiie weather 
cleared later, and they drove twelve miles, had lunch, 
visited the Fall, and were back by dusk. They enjoyed 
it very much, though they came in very cold. 

1). and I dined alone, and then went off to a skating 
ball. The Rink was lighted up, and hung with fln!';s and 
lanterns, and there were regular dancing programmes. 
It was a very pretty sight. I can't conceive anything 
more graceful than the lancers skated ; waltzing also is 
pretty, but few people, even here, can do it, 1 had a 
very comfortable seat, and sat there with a never-ceas- 
ing stream of figures passing before ine. 

D. skated a gocxi deal at the ball, and Fred took 
some turns with the young ladies hand-in -hand round 
the place, but they did not dance, I went round twice, 
but am not a good enough skater for these public dem- 
onstrations. 

J''rUin\ iot>i.—M\tr some skating, I proceeded to the 
grating at the Ursuline C'onvent to thank the nuns for 
gome lovely specimens of their work, which they sent me 
an a New Year's gift. Then I came home and '* received " 
farewell visits. All at Quebec, both in " society " and 
in the streets, are m nice to us— they are very home- 
like, \Vr left the hotel in the ^vf^nin" rmti^f*;' *hi* v\'-p^r 
and had our special car. in which we first had tea and 



e>2 



w 




^fy CA.VADfAX JOUJiXAL, 



CH. V 



"Wse, and then we „en, , ^ , ^"' ' 

Couls«n amended "a par y •■ i„'':t ""■'" ^-^ and M, 

■&/ar^„|. ////, ,,' ^ '" "■« "<:•« carriage 
"-•-."as, ia.ed;7„"r;:!f ^' "»'-. !„'.;„, f„. 

Mondav, ijt/i j) 

and some churches aC^h '"L"'th'' ''' '^^ ^-^'«' 
a J^raw,ng-room, There were\h . '"'"'"^ ^^ ^ad 
///.../..v, i4th.-.\x^ .kated 7T" /'°°° P«"PJe at it. 
^f'^ "horning, and at ni.ht ' , " '" '^ " ^^'^'''^^ '" 
[--ty-eight people: S,,) "" '"' ^'""- here J. 
^tayor and his wife a I '"'^''" ""^ ^is wife the 

-ali for so many.t;' t;^ ^e,?"^ d-vving-roo. i 
y ball at a Mo„s. Papi, , /; ^.^ >'' ^« -e were gon,g 
auiment I have been to in ~' ^'■■'^' P^vate entert 
have been handsome, w th bro " ''" "'^ -"^^ must 
powdered. They have a prettv h. ^'"" '"' ^'^''^ ^air 
Pieasant. P'^">' house, and the ball was 

«hoe torchlight processiof'r'"'' "'' '""'^^^^ ^ «n"W. 
" <^''>ck the prescient o TL' ' '" ""'■ ''""«'•• At eight 
^';"ve out until we „: ' ! 'r"'^'^ ^'^'^^ ^^ •'«- and we 
^hite blanket coats iU I "•""'•''^"^■'*" '^^hey w.ne 
^he sight really was verv ,' . '^^'"^"' ''^"'' '^^^ caps, and 

7^ r'^ht night. th:^~;^r "^' ^'^^^^'--^^^^^ 

f '«hs and thousands o^T.nklin T*""'' ''""^'^^"'^ "f 
the gayety of the whole "^'^ '''^'''^' ^''^ '""-ches. and 
Processi<,n walked .,',,"'' "'''' '^'"''^''h'ful. T 1 

:;;-tchingthene;; ;;':;- 

! he roads were e.vcl^l,ent ,,,7 l'"'*^ """"^ ^he trees, 
d.'-'vt- iLave n-ailv enj„n,, f '^^'■''^ ^he first sl..igh. 
^'ved at a house where sul./'' "'^'""^ -' hour we ar- 
-,'^^^ ^ very an.usi.;; X^^"'Vr"'""^'' «"^ -"- 

-- sun^ afj^j. _^,j^ 






CH. V 

Fred and Mr. 
carriage, 
a^ in time for 
^h the Mayor 
■gins on Mon- 

'^.1^ Courts, 
eniiig we had 

people at it. 

a school in 
inner here— 
'lis wife, the 
'ing-rooni is 
! were going 
■ivate enter- 

^''^e must 

white hair 
he bail was 

^^ a snow- 
At eight 
"•S and we 
'"'ley wore 

f^'ips, and 

anadian: 
'Hireds of 
ches, and 
"'• The 
ve round 
he trees, 
t sleigh- 
r we ar- 
li where 
"ng list 
^r each. 



Jan. 1873 



MONTREAL, 



63 



I 



There was the usual amount of compliments to the 
country, to us, to the Mayor, to everybody. Canada 
was the finest country, the Canadians the finest people 
His Excellency worthy to be a Canadian, Her Excel' 
lency most excellent, the Mayor admirable, thr Mavor 
ess most hospitable, our hosts . . . words failed ' When 
the Mayor got up to return thanks, he said that " As 
Canadians, we have one fault~we are too fond of prais"- 
ing ourselves; but in this case it is sincere." When all 
was over, we got into our sleigh again, and the fresh air 
was delightful! The snow-shoers were by this time 
"jolly good fellows,- and I found them rather alarming 
to our horses and to me; so we begged them not to ac- 
company us h<,me, and 1 think they were not sorry to 
return to the supper-room. 

Thursday, j6th.~\ may tell you, once for all, that we 
spend the morning in the Rink. 

This afternoon we visited a Catholic commercial 
school- really a well-arranged building. The boys 
have a very good string band, and between addresses 
we had some music, 

We had a large dinner in the evening: Sir Francis 
and Miss Hincks were of the party. I fear it was not 
bvely, but what can one do in a small room with thirty 
strangers ? 

Saturday, /cW/.— After our morning skate wc came 
home m a snowstorm, and then out again to a benevo- 
lont institution where old women and orphan children 
arc lodged, and the latter educated We had tea wah 
the Bishcp and Mrs. Oxenden. Thev have a very ni.e 
house, and they had collected a iittle party i<. meet us; 
but we had rather u, hurry away, as it was snowmg 
hard, and we had to drciss for a dinner-party. It was to 

and was, I thought, the pleasantest we have had here. 



64 



My CANADIAN JOURNAL, 




CH. V 

and only rcLneU ,„r H .e" .7/™"«'«I "> «he kink, 
the Board of Trade ™ "" ""''«« '™" 

p.o:!:::;;^:i,t^r— ^---.«drove.oa 

good one : but i, „a_, ,|,e wrong o as" asT: ' "'" 

big dinner. I eniovpH tK^ • '* •^""'^^ rest before a 

I'lc^ dined with n" ''"'"«' """ """^ "'« P™- 

onr horses were^ul^r^^'r/.r; "^^^f »"^ 

taken to the dreSr-fo:^'r:r; ?' "'"' "• "- 

■adies. „. afterwards'visi: d h N ™ TsV^iT'"' "" 
s<-'lf. We dined with the M ,v,,r , °"' '''' '"■"" 

in >l.e snow to J ,„ l'"' ""^ ""'>■<= «Wc-d ,. at 

^'ei.^ - .■eat,/r:;;::a .if r„ rrJuTi-^'-r'^ 

gayet.es are in our own lunnv C.anad.an 

and who sen. me magnificent bono" , t, '' " ■''°' 
;;...• .;i.nrch and co„ege here, and ar^cei^brat'ed' L'r'Z.: 

W. h.d (Of course) a d,n„er-party. n, i„„k i„ , 



Jan. 1873 



"MONKLANDS." 



65 



bride, and I had a senator and a judge on either side of 

nnd?'?;?-"' '^'^•~'^' ''" ^'- ^^'"^ ^" ^ ™i''tary school 
and had the rest of the day for amusing himL f w h 
skat.ng and curling. We had another large dinner r 1 
people w.ll have du,ed w.th us th.s week, Is whom 
are quite new acquaintances. 

Fruiay, ^^///.-There was a tremendous snowstorm 
to-day, but we had an appointment to visit " M o^l ^1 s^ 

"^ "It. eyes Hum the snow, and we nil li-wi 
to cover our faces and take as much care of l!! 1 
was possible. ^ "^ ourselves as 

"Monklands" used to hf> th« (- 

tuc lown tor a Government House Tf li.,c 1, 

A eer »ee,n« ,„e nuns and .he I,„„hc,,',„ , „,„„^,. 

" ""• "5° >■"""« lailifs, <lri:sscd in white wore 
""r.esy,n^ and whence proceeded s,.,„uK hnrns 

•-Ilc^^buf .-r' "'''• '"'" ""'^ ^"•'" ^-' ^« visit a 

w ' '■*'""'' straight home. 

One of our young ladies turned nut to be a " hi e-sto4^: 



66 



MY CANADIAN JOURXAI.. 




W \ \ 



C\\. V 

ing," and amused us much by laying down the law to the 
company. 

Saturday, 25th.-l took a drive along the river to pre- 
pare for the labors of the afternoon, being "at home " 
Ue began to receive at three, and had a stream of visit- 
|>rs till S.30. I had not much time except for shaking 
hands, and all my conversation was " How do you do ' '' 
"How cold you must ber* " Good-by ! " A funny lit- 
tle American woman, traveling alone with her maid 
came and looked in at the door to see mc ; then she 
thought she would come in, so she went home and 
changed her hat for her bonnet and returned. She asked 
for "my husband," and invited us both to Philadelphia 
She looked small and thin enough to blow away, and 
tred found ... afterwards almost fainting from the ex- 
ertion of h ) V;Slt. 

Mouda.. .7.^». -After skating, I brought Miss Allan 
back to lirjn '. and we went to a chemical lecture It 
was given to ludies, and I am patroness of the associa- 
tion. I then went on to the Protestant Infants' Home 
D. visited the Montreal Waterworks. 

We had a dinner of thirty-six— our last here. The 
children arrived at midnight, looking extremely well 

Tuesday, 2m.~\\^ all went to visit a large convent 
called Hochelaga. It is a fine building, and contains a 
very beautiful chapel copied from one in Rome. We 
heard the organ played and the novices sing. 

In the evening there was the " citizens' " ball given 
in our honor. There was an excellent ball-room, with an 
enormous supper-room off it. An arrangement was 
made at one end of it, like the canon's stall in a cathe- 
dral : these were lined with green, and decorated with 
the antelope and heart, our motto, etc., etc. ; in each a 
chair, but only one stall was used all the night, and that 
by mc. The whole room was ornamented with Hags 



JAN. 1873 



THE RIXK. 



^7 



and "V. R.s" and " D.s," and was very pretty. There 
was a state quadrille first, of enormous length, reaching 
the whole way down the room, and with us and the 
Mayor alone at the ends. 1 enjoyed my share o^ 'he 
evening very much, and tlanced all the squares re 

supper, leaving very soon after. An official list of 
partners was made out for I)., and he remained dancing 
with dowagers until four o'clock in the morning. 

Wi'Jnesiiay, 2(^t/i. — I), had relaxation to-day, skating 
and curling, and I did some business, and went over the 
R. C. Deaf-and-dumb Institutions. 

These were very interesting, as the poor creatures 
are being taught to speak, and very successfully too. 
There are separate establishments for the boys and 
girls, and the master showed us the whule system of 
teaching. 

This is a cold, bright day, 20° below zero. 

I spent the evening with the children, D. and staff 
having gone to a night-tobogganing party and dance. 
The former returned at twelve, and the young ones 
not till nearly three. They enjoyed it, but thought it a 
dangerous amusement in the dark, and Mr. Coulson had 
the sleeves completely cut out of his coat by a toboggan 
coming down on the top of him. 

21iursda\\ 30th. — The fancy-dress skating ball took 
place in the evening, and was a most beautiful sight, be- 
sides being great fi: 1. 

We drove to the Rink wearing morning dress, and 
went out on a balcony to look down upon the scene. 
It was like a fairy pantomime of gigantic size, and was 
most striking. The building was hung with (lags and 
C'hinese lanterns, and from one end to the other there 
were gayly-dressed tigures of every sort and variety 
moving about with that easy, graceful swing whicli be- 
longs to skating. When we went downstairs we were 



i\ 






58 



- .«• 






.Cft.lT . 



. ""■'<* and Miss KinVsforrf ,» 

">e best performer,. Ila^t L ° ""''' "''"'' ^"^- "=% 
well done, and ,l,e scene o„ hf ,S '^ "''' S"-^"'"' when 

■ n>ovi„g about so f ast on he fc. /"; ^"'^ ' ""y™e 
tobogganing down .h'e hm behind' "1. ^^ " ""P'^ 

■ "u. did no. fee, e,„a, to si. :;:gtw ,^f„°'"»/^''ae.s, 

vVhen It became cold w^ ^ '^'^ exjierts. - 

•" and ™„,ied. cla e.? atd da^ T '^' ^""'^ "'^ 
t^-ld .0 .epea. these ;a..iltra tT^^ 7' '"- ' 
was qu,.e a surprise .his .ime ba.!,t"''"™K 
"Peced now, and parcels of hoi and "'' " *'" "' 
t'ons will be brough. „e„ «,!"'' ''"'""'s <i«ora. 
Pensed with on .his occasion ''' "^'"^ """' "''■ 

^^-iastic over its d ^h r Th' ^T^,^"^'^^ ^° ^ - 
■Piumes on the horses- back areThK^'' '"^ ^^e red 

kept here as a visiting-da; Alf tT^ !■ ''^'^'^ ^^^ « 
andalHhegentlemen'vis,': n ZT^'^'^y ^'^or..,^^- 
from three to five and received, '"^''^ "^^ ^^n^e " . 

ten degrees of frost, which sell^ ^Tid bright, with only 

Wuh the exception of a feJ.r/Vr^K^"''^'-''^^^^'^*-^^ ' 
been perfectly comfortable theK '^'"■''^'"^^' ^^ have 
^e are so well wrapped up when 1'' '' '' '" ^^™' a«d ^ 

not feel cold ^ ^^^^ ^« 8^° (>ut, that we can^ /- 



» -. 



^^ 



IT"! I nil 






5«y g'ris, being- 
' graceful when 
?ay; everyone 
"ots of people 
' on my skates, 
^ch exjierts. 
' housej drank 
hour. Wein- 
"^The dancing 
irse it will be 
rious decora- 
ich were dis- 

^leighing are 

0^ gets into 
ht to be en- 
"d the red 
M think. 
ir's Bay is 

«yathonie,„.y^' 
'at home " . 

• with only 
*fea thaw? 
s. we have 
"'arm, and 
at we can /" 



=^^ 



r' 



CHAPTER V. 

MONTREAt, 



I 



St. La7vrence Hall: Sunday, January jM.^We left 
Rideau yesterday, had dinner at Prescott, and reached 
Montreal at night. A very successful winter journey, 
for had the sno*r been troublesome we might have been 
days m route. The Mayor met us, and we drove to this 
hotel, where we have taken rooms for a- month. . Our 
own cook and servants arrive early in the week aiid ar- 
range everything, while we gp dowsi to Quebec for a 
ball. The roonjs we have herfe are very clean, but very 
hotel-like, stiff and starch, a|jd I shaiH not feel much at 
home when I receive ttiy guests in them.' 

Monday, 6th.— \ft went early to the Rink, which we 
were curious to, see. It it ^g;reat place, 250 feet long, 
of smooth, dulMooking ice, which reminds one of wax, 
and which 'is covered with scrapings cut off by the 
skates; there is a raised walk round the ice for non- 
skaters, and a gallery at one end. The raof 1* arched. 
Most of the skaters were children of four years old and 
upwards, going backwards and forwards, Dutch rolling, 
making eights— 'looking as if ttfey had been born on 
skates. There was only one young lady there, very 
pretty and a splendjd performer. Her skating jg the 
aiusi ijeamiiui, graceful tning om tm 8*e, Scaling is " 
particularly pretty for ladies^ iTl the dress hides the ma- 



» -. 



\ 



4 ^ 



•4! 



6o 



i 



"^^ ^^^ADIAN JOVHI^AZ. 



"elf*. V 



chinery which is visible ^u ■ 

7;; -dun. however ^hlt col ^'r- ^" ^"-^- 
of doors. V ' *''''"P^'"ed to skating out 

We went down to the staf ?nn . • 
^-o good bedrooms, and hT^^ I>- and I had 

";- car. Mrs. Den't had a soflt th ' '^'^ '^ ' ^""- 
H's Ex.V short-hand- writer tdi"^' -"'ng-roo.n, and 
occupy a couch opposite to mv^"/ ^e was expected to 
'-^« 't with his hat o#whicTl '""^' ^'^^''^^ ^"'"P^d 
gave an air of respectability J 'h'^''' '' '""^'^"^^ 
^as giggling at him unde h^r P^^'^^^ding. Bent, 

amused when, later, the hat of '^^'.^"^ >vas still more 
^^^^ man pulled his cbth sS"^^ ^^'^^^ °^' -^ 

r«„^a^, ;^/^_We awoke in . ^ '^'"'^'^ *^^^^- 
^^^ at a passing staUof h '"^^-.^^ ^ave a cup of 
twelve. ^ '•'''^"' ^d. arrived at Quebec at 

-d^re^S^^-^i^-d the Citadel, the r^ 

on the snow. ^V. VoJ^ltT""' ''''''' '^^ ^^^ -^^^.^^^ 

■ ice, and were accomp " d ", ''^^^-'«-' cutting through - 

to the hotel over the mo!th ^^'"■- ^« drove up 

^reat moulds, and thetl f7' "^'^^^^ -«- i-' 

•nany chifdren, who get In tL ^ ^"""^ '''"^'"«' ^ut too 
nervous. "° «^^* J" the way and make beginners 

«&)=, «here D « B,a«io, "T'."*^ "^^ again ».„ to the 

"Ch scmbby f„;,|, and „^r' h ' ""'' ' """'i^'l 

' «n«. This plaei in wimer i,^ . "" "' "'' """^ "Pe- 

"■*'^ piun,a^ .how, z: r ::r:° "-"'r-^" 



■I ■,*■• 



Xt'- . 



► >. .- 



, I. .^.jiWVM.tS"' .>,'. 






cTtf . V 

An in-door 
skating out 

D- and I had 
eds in a Pull- 
"g-rooin, and 
' expected to 
^y^y jumped 
- considered 
dJng:. Dent 
s still more 
fed off, and 
is head, 
e a cup of 
Quebec at 

, the river, 
un shining 
ig through - 
i drove up 
snow is in 
another is 
fhe warm 

hand was 

', but too 
>eginners 

>t to the 
e young 
In the 
tamined 
leexpe- 
try.and 
bles. 




JAN. 1873 



CITIZENS' B4LL. 



* 
61 



The Citizens* Ball took place to-night. It is one 
given for us. by the city, and for which we were invited 
to return when we left in the autumn. It was a splendid 
entertainment. The room waS decorated with bur colors, 
and with wreaths of roses, and there was a large recep- 
; tion committee, who took great care of me all the even- 
ing. , 

Thursday, ^th. — An excursion to Montmorericy was 
arranged for to-day, but I did not go. At noon, fortyr 
two sleighs, each driving a tan defl|, came to the door, 
and D. got into the first in a snowstorm. The weather 
cleared later, and they drove twelve miles, had lunch, 
visited the Fall, and were back by dusk. They enjoyed 
it very much, though they came in very cold. 

D. and I dined alone, and then went off no a skating 
ball. The Rink was lighted ufl, and huhgwith flags and 
lanterns, and there were regular dancing programmes. 
It was a very pretty sight. I can't conceive anything 
more graceful than -the lancers skated ; waltjing also is 
pretty, but few people, even here, can do it. T had a 
very comfortable seat, and* sat there with a never-ceas^, 
in^ stream of figures passing before me. 

D. skated a good deal at the ball, and Fred took 
some turns with the yourig ladles hand-in-hand round 
the place, but they did not dance. I went round twice, ' 
but am not a good enough skater for, these public dem- 
onstrations. 

Friday, yoth. — After some skating, I proceeded to the 
grating at the Ursuline Convent to thank the nuns for. 
some, lovely specimens of their work, which tbey sent nie 
as a New Vfcar's ^ift. Then- 1 came bom« and " received " 
farewell visit.s. All" at QtictJeci both in "society" and 
in the streets, are so nice to iis*— they «re very home^ 
Hke. vye l€!t itit hfttel Iti' the evening, crp^sed the' river, 
and had Our special car, in nvhich' we first had tea and 



4 



W.' 






"*^;"-lv -11 »nrniT'g.iBBim«-Tri»a^aa^sifeE,Ei^iaaa«a 



62 







CH, V 



'""St. and ,h„ „,, ' _ ■ • '^•' 

CouUon amended •.»;:«, '".n":; l""' ^-', -d Mr. 

^l son., churches ^ Z^T^'^^'^''^'^^ 
^ Drawmg-room. There were'^?^^ ^^^"'^^ 

.; '^^ -orning, and aM^^^^^^^^d a schoo] I 
^enty-eight people: bS^^^ ""I ^rst .dinner here- 
Wayor and hi& wL arid ^.u ^'"^^" ^"^ his wife i\,^ 
-alUor so .any, ^ l^^^"^^^- ^--'ng-roo.l 
«^bal, ataMons.PapfneVut Th>^^-«-eweregoing 
. "^^'nment I have.been to ?n r ! ^'■'^ P"^^t« emer 
V J^^ve been handsome wtVh "^^^ «'« ^^^^e must 

powdered. They hav/a p'e rh:"''^ ^"'^^'^^^a^^^ 
. pleasant. ^ ^"^ ^°"se, and the haJl was 

*^^fdnesdav i^th • Th" 

j-*^-hiight processioa ;;:::: -f"^ T""''^ ' -- ^ 

^ck the president of rff ''"'" '^°"°'-- At eight 

-If^eout untilweme ,TJ.'"'^'^^'"^^-"VandV^ 
whue blanket coats L^ '°^^-«^°««" They woTe 
^e .ght really was ^:S,^:;^'^^^ 
t^ebnght night, the snolco;e,r''''''^^^^^^^^^^^ 
^-^hs and thousands 6f trnklinlber"".'' '""^^^^^ ^^ 
the gayety of the whole scenT ^^^^^^'^'^^^ and ■ 
procession Mcalked up the J •'"'"■" ^"''«^tf"'- The 
^.-atching the rJHe p^S ^"' "^ ^^--o^^^^^ 
The road* w,re excellent andf'"^ ''"""^ '^e trees. 
d"ve I have r.ally enjoyed ? J"^' ^'^ ^^^^ «'eigh 
^•ved at a house M^ereTul '^''"' "" ^^"> ^^ al 

-^hadaveryamusfng Sg"^^^^^^^^^^ 
-^ toast, and a song w'ith .";5:...^^-- ^^^ ^ long list 



B^.-' 



'"'^^fTereaSR: 



.' '. 






Jan. 1873 



MONTREAL. 



63 



There was the usual amount of complirteats to the 
country to us, to ihe Mayor, to every^dy. Canada 
was the finest country, the Canadians^ the finest people 
His Excellency worth/^ to be a Canadian, Her Excel' 
lency most excellent, the Mayor admirable, the Mayor 
ess most hospitable, our hosts . . . words failed ' When 
the Mayor got up to return thanks, he said that "As 
Canadians, we have one fault-we are too fond of prais- 
ing ourselves; but in this case it is sintere." When all 
was over, we got into our sleigh again,.and the fresh air 
was delightful ! The snow-shoers wer^ by this time 
jolly good fellows," and I found them rather alarming 
to our horses and to me ; so we begged them not to ac- 
company us hoj^e, and. 1 think they were not sorry to 
return to the siipper-Toom. 

Thursday, i6th.^\ may tell you, once for all, that we 
spend the morning in the Rink. 

Tills afternoon we visited a Catholic commercial, 
school -really a well-arranged building. The boys 
have a very good string band, and between addresses 
we had some music. 

We had a large, dinner in the evening: Sir Francis 
and Miss Hincks were of the party. I fear it was not 
lively, but what can one do in a small room with thirty 
strangers? 

Saturday, /<?//i_Aftcr our morning skate we came 
home in a^snowstorm, and then cJut again to a benevo- 
lent mstitut.on where old women and orphan children 
are lodged, and the latter educated. We had tea with 
the Bishop and Mrs. Oxenden. They have a very nice 
house, and they had collected a little party to meet us- 
but we had rather to hurry aVay, as it was snowing 
hard, and we had to dress for a dinner-party. It was to 
have L ii cii a s mati-ong,-troT^tfetcTierou t to tWenty-fou ^^^ 
and was, \ thotight, the pleasan^est we have had here. 



I 



. ^. '- » 



64 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. V 

and D. went off toh, L^ ^""^ '"breakfast at nine, 

im„,ediare ; after A. ett*"''"^'' "" ' ^'"^ "»"- 
=ind only refumed fof HUEi .„' """'='"''' '° "« «'"*. 
the Board of Trade '""■' ^"^='<'«'» '"«■ 

When that deputation was dismissed w. ^ • 
Protestant deaf-and-dumb :ns.itutTon wLilh waT"" ' 

red:-' ^::L7sL'd^.r-c3^^^^^ 

our list, and we onfv^orh . "'''' institution on 

big dinner. I en Wcf tL "' " ' '''^" ^^^^ ^^^^--^ a 

■ pipelined with us ' '''""^' ^"' ^°«^^ "'9^ peo- 

. were sh«n everythm* ot ,nT, f T '"'"'• ="" « 
Uke„tothedissJ.,„r.?„ol 'C :;r '"'■'= D. was 
ladies. D. af erwards viii;r^' LZ '"' '" "i"- 'he 

self. Wedmedw^fthrS^tdTs"*"'"^"™-. 
i" the snow to „et into ' '^'.f "" ""^ Pepped out , . 

^'^'^K we .teatiyrio.'::: . a r^m "st of"J:f c^-^;^" 

gayetiesare in our own home. '"^'^ ^^ ^"'^^^nad.an 

The Mayor has a nice house and fh». 
, display of flowers on his tab) n fact Th7r ' 'f "''' 
bought every flower in Montreli fov Th '"' ^'^ ^"^ ^ 

and disappointed the e I [' whL h"!! F^ "'"'^ '^^' 
and who sent .e Jgnific:;: C,^ , ^TJ h^^ 
fine church and coUeire here an^ ""'^"^^s- They have a>.. 
attusic. *^ ^' ^"^ ^'^ celebrated «ir their ,; 

^<- had (pf co u roc) a U...„er.pa.ty. D! took in ki 



V , ,^^} »iiv^' 



\* "--j 



*^j Ti~f(\*CT|j,i 



Jan. 1873 



'MONKLANDS:' 



bride, and , had a senator and a judge on either side of 

.nd tadt^'Sfr';hrda°- ri'" ''^'^ -"-■• 
,u.inga„d.c„rii„g/t:;!7d:::.r::"4t:t'.™^ 
rr'n it!' ''"'"'"^^ "'"■ "^ '^- wee j:„ " ^wh ; 

are quite new acquaintances 

rrs,rr:e\:L:;r r "tV" r- " -- 

and they .ere •' flounde^: • a.o f whilft'h* c''"? 
n.an was shading h,s eyes fron. the si: I'd w alltd 

"Monklands" used to Jj# th^ r- ^ *•- 

house when fhpr» if Governor-Generalk 

nouse when the Government^ at Montreal Fbelievf " 
the situatbo s fine hut if «, Tu . ^oeiieve 

the town fo. a Go;::'„ir H ::: xz 'r """' 

l^rged, and now contains .anunfa 4, p, pi r "' 

.e:^:: ;:- ^^e^ ir.^^i.S:?T- 

room where a stage presented Ll ,0 ' °'^ ^^^^^^l" 
whi^i,'**!, H'cscHLca itsell to our view Unnn 

which the ISO young ladies, dressed in white'^r" 

courtesying, and Whence proceeded sonnrlc \^ 

pianos, and har^noniuras ^^ ''™^f '«""d« «f harps. 

ainment followed and dM7JT'' '''''' ''''''■ 
'resses. ^ ' ^ ^'^^'^ anspbred ad- 

When this was over, poof "Jf^F-v - t,n^ * 
'4oUe»-p- hn* ;„ ^ -• "^d to visit a 



^riTaa^ a small c, 
JIne of our young Jadi 
6 



»d were tolerably merfy. 
|i^doi,itobea"bJue-stock- 




4 



«| 



•f*~ 



I 










66 



MV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 




GH. V 

ing," and amused us much by .laying down the law to the 
company. 

• - , Saturday, 25th.--l took a drive along the river to pre- 
pare for the labors of the afternoon, being " at home " 
We began to receive at three, and had a stream of visit- 
ors till S.30. I had not much time except for shaking 
hands, and all my conversation was " How (fo you do ?•' 
"How cold you must ber' " Good-by ! " A fiinny lit- 
tle American woman, traveling alone with her maid 
came and looked in at the door to see me ; ihen she 
thought she would come in, so she went home and 
changed her hat for her l^onnet and returned. She asked 
for "my husband," and invited us both to Philadelphia 
She looked^ small and thin enough to blow away, and 
tred found her afterwards almost fainting from the ex- 
ertion of her visit. ' 

Monday, ^///^.-After skating, I brought Miss Allan 
back to lunch, and we went to a chemical lecture Jt 
was given to ladies, and I am patroness of the associa- • 
tion. 1 then went on to the Protestant Infants' Home 
D. visited the Montreal Waterworks. 
, We had a dinner of thirty-six— our last here The 
children arrived at midnight, looking extremely well 

Tuesday, 2m.-Wc all went Vo visit a large convent 
called Hochelaga. It is a fine building, and contains a 
very beauhful chapel copied fr^m one.fn Rome. We 
heard the organ played and the novices sln;^. 
\ In the evening there was the ^'citizens'" -ball given 
ih our honor; There was an excellent ball-room,, with an 
«iormous supper-room off it. An arrangement was 
madeat one end of it, like the canon's stall in a cathe- 
dral ; these were lined with green, and decorated with 
the antelope and heart, our motto, etc., etc. ; in each a 
chair, but only one stall was use d all the n ight, and th a^— 



y Dy me. The whole room was ornamented with flags 



^-i^i^Mii 



'•f^<'':f-( •" 



JAN. 1873 



THE RINK. 



(>7 



and " V. R.s " and " D.s," and was very pretty. There 
was a state quadrille first, of enormous length, reaching 
the whole way down the rooi^and with us and the 
Mayor alone at the ends. ^M|oyed my share of the 
evening very much, and dancltt all the squares before 
supper, leaving very soon after. An official list of 
partners was made out for D., and he remained dancing 
wi^hjjerwag^s until four o'clock in the morning. 

Wednesday, ^^th. — I), .had relaxation to-day, skating 
and curling, and 1 did sOme business, and went over the 
R. C. Deaf-and-dumb Ihstitutions.. . ; 

These were very interesting, as the poor dreatures 
are being taught to speak, and Very successfully too. 
There are separate establishmefTfs for the boys and 
girls, and the master showed us the whole system of 
teaching.. 

Thiis is a cold, bright day, 20° below zero. 

I spent the evening with the children, ti. and staff 
having gone to a night-tobogganing party and dance. 
The former returned at twelve, and the young ones 
not tithR^^rly three. They enjoyed it, but thought it. a 
dangerous amusement in the dark, arid Mr. Coulson had 
the sleeves compktely cut out of his qoat by a toboggan 
coming down on the top of him. 

Thursday, jot/i.^-lihe fancy-dr-eSs skating ball took 
place inj the eveniag, and was a mosyjeautiful sight, be- 
sides being great fun. 

We drove to the Rink wearing morning dress, and 

went out on a balcony to look down upon the scene. 

\ It was like a fairy pantomime of gigantic size, and was 

\most striking. The building was hung with' flags and 

(^Hmese' lanterrts, and from one end to the othef there 

wye gayly-dressed figures of every sort and variety 



Idn^ to skating. When we went downstairs we were 






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PhotogTdphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 




33 WIST MAIN STRUT 
WIBSTM.N Y I4SI0 



4 .^. 

4lfS 









% 



1^ 




'' 



68 



^/y CAXAD/AX JOURXAL. 



conducted t(, tl.c farther end ,.f th 



in 



for 
for us. 



iiiid chairs at th 



c edge of the 



t- Kink, wh 



CH. V 



ere a plat- 



iLc were prepared 



Here 



we stood, while the two sets of 



us. 



were danced in front of 
each couple skated in, Ix.wed 
took their places. I think 1 h 



On 



'state" lancers 



beautiful the lancers 
inia>,ni;e how the 
Kauty; ] never 



add it 



c was a pomlr^ set : 
to us as they i)as.sed, and 
ive already told you how 
you can 



tliey were 



'ire when skated, and 
'on of costume increas'es th 
saw anything half s„ prettv. Wh 



cir 



off too. 1 
th 



over I), ant! Vxi^^X 



collected a i*^-^ { 



put un doiniii 



en 



c children sat on the ed^f of 



riend 



ocs, and skated 



s under my canopy, 



the who I 



Ih 



c eveninir watching the il 



It, and we were 



amused 



cy came hefore i 



IS. 



'11 



liferent charact 



crs as 



«-entleman who passe.l us every 



>cre was one delightful old 



way, acting capitally the whol 



round in sonje diff 



ccllent and large 



m 



c time, 'i'here was a 



erent 
II ex- 



(iren. 



'J'h 



t'tc, etc. The lad 



I're were Indian 



'onkey, wh<. performed for the chil 



s and Chin 



petticoats, so th 
Vardens, Watte 
were! In fact, t 
add 
th 



les costinncs had of 



:inu'n, cavaliers. 



ere was every variety of peasant-Dol 



:iiis, etc 



etc, 



and 



ve 



necessity short 

ly 



perpetual motion— f 



o an ordinary fancy h, 



ry pretty they 
ill you have to 



le ice. 



'II 



or no one ever stands still 



le spe( tators lined the walls. W 



away to have some supper, ami 



per balcony 



to 



>'ler it I sat on th 



on 



e were torn 



•'mother set of lancers, and 



see the general effect. '| 



Sir K 



he 



e u|)- 
y danced 



"'"sure that if they had not turned th 



ojfer (le Coverlev." I 



out, by playing "(lod 



era I 



Hhould have been ahl 
much. 



e ( 

save the On 



•overnor-Cien- 



een. 



e to get him away, h 



I 



never 



c enjoyed it so 



h'tij, 



n 



\3i^t~.\\ visited the blind-scluH.h 



his account of them, I 
with him. H 



e was SI) tuucl 



was (piiie sorry not t„ hav 



and, from 



- --M.y not to tiave gone 
•-^ by .1 iiitic blind <hiid 



FEB. 1873 



lf7X/7:A' a AMES. 



wliere a plat- 
'f re prepared 



ffclmjr his face all over with her tiny fmgcrs to feel 
what he was like. 

Siilurt/iiy, I'lhruary /it. — We went tiiis afternoon to 
see some snow-shoe races, anil, for the first time since 
we have been \\\ Canada, we were all t!»or(»iij,dily cold, 
and were j,'lad wlien it was over. 

In the evening some K^mes \n the Kink were very 
amusing. One sport looked dangerous: it was a hurdle- 
race, and the skaters had to jump over stiff harriers 
placed m their way. Numbers of them caught their feet 
on the top bar, and came down ; it was wonderful that 
they escaped being seriously hurt. The funniest race to 
watch was the barrel-race: a number of Hour-barrels 
without ends were pl.iced ;it iirtervals along the course. 



irrels as hovs; 



The first row h.'d the same number of b, 
the seconil and the third sets had fewer, for the com- 
petitors got separated and did not all reach the barrels 
at the same time. Kach boy dived down when he reached 
the barrel, crept through it, and skated on, as fast as 
possible, to the next. Of (ourse the barrels rolled and 
tumbled about on the ice, and some boys were much 
<|uicker at getting through them than others. There 
were also backward races, and girls' races, and boys' 
races, etc., all on sk^ites. I gave the prizes at the end. 

Afi'fii/ii\\ jti.~h\ the morning we went to the Kink, 
and, a small band of music having been obtained, thert; 
were lancers danced, and waltzes, and every one worked 
hard, some because they skate for the prizes to-mor 
aiul some beiause it was to be our last dav there. 



row. 



We went to nn Irish concert after di 



nner. 



All tl 



songs were Irish, anjl there was a little speechifying be- 



tween times. 



7'ui'si/,t\\ .////. — It thaws to-day, and is ((insnpiently 



horrid, but wt* aro ail full of i-tiif 



tement al'uut tlit- sk.it^ 



Ing-niatchcs this afternoon. Uucbec has sent a tlui 



am- 



'■I 



i li 



70 



^fy 6V/\-. //;/../, V JOURXAL. 



cir. V 



pioti lady, and has told her she ne.-rl „», . 
1 i< IM I.- „,rls skal,„K was beautiful. 




rSsr^s^:^ 



CII. V 



f-'turn to her 
w'lich D. has 



erestin^:, hut 
jiiilj^cs said 
two, which 

ket he had 

- W^entlt'iiien 
refused to 

>df! 

lancinjLj till 



CHAPTER VI. 

O'JR I-IRST I'ARI.IAMK.NTAKY SKSSloN. 

O i tinea : Fruhty, /u-huury /^///.—Thv curlinR-rink, 
outsitie our windows, was ready to-day, and tlie K'^ntle- 
men h;\d a ^anu; in the morninjj and skated in the after- 
noon. We i)layed "puss in the corner" and •'fri;:r's 
ground " on skates with the children, who were deliglited 
with this idea— mine, I l)e^ to say. 

Sii/i/n/tty, /jf/i.~Cur\\nu: and skatinji are our exer- 
cises every day. We have iiad a ^r at consultation over 
our arranjrenients for tne " season." During Lent there 
can i)e no balls, but we shall have some plays. 'I'wo 
pieces, "The Tirst Ninbt " ami "To Obliire IJenson," 
are already in hand, and we are to have one play each 
week, and each play twite. This will ^ive us four en- 
tertainments. After Kaster we shall awe a big ball in 
the new room. 

For the openinjj of Parliament wc have invited Mr. 
and Mrs. Howland. with whom wc stayed in Toronto, 
to come to us. The meetinj; is on the 5th, and we have 
a Cabinet dinner the night before, athnner the day afttr, 
an ice-party on Friday, ami a small dinner on Saturday. 

I suppose the House will "sit" all throURh ,\pril. so 
that we can ask the jSo members to dinner before they 
leave Ottawa. 

The children's dreadful colds are all better, but the 



72 




m 




'^"' CAXADUX JOUR'XAI.. 



f ^-^-r 'His me l,c has h.„l over , 
,At one o\:U,rk in the n.^h h, ^ '"''' ''^ ^''^ ■*^-'"«- 
•^^•'-v .ero, an<J at c en he J ^'^^'?'""^''- was .0° 
-"■e of seventy de^^reew o -f ,• ''' '° '''"'^■^-•^ ^'^^^'r- 
l>^'"Ple catch cohls ! " ' "''^ extraordinary that 

'^- <'"ntinues to feci nuh., 

"■";;;;;;;; '>-;in>c.,i„u:j;::;: ,;;;'' """^- '" "«-"■ 

■"";■' at l„„„„ i„ ,„; ,„,,'•■""''• -..I as 1 „a.| ,„ ,,. 
""'' '< ""^ »ea,l,„ has „„ ' ""'"'■''' •■» vi-silors, 

»ide. "■'" '""^l'«l .l.scssint- it ,.n every 

"'i-y are |,l..asc,l ,„ ' ,. ." ""■ '•"•""l'laM„l„er, „.|,i,,, 

ww.ll ,„is«,|„. hall, if ,„„ ,,,'"'• ■""' «Ml,"(,|,! 
PaiHT." ■''''""•»'= area rc.|igi„„s 

'•"/""'"water'a,;,,!:' ,:;:';;■''•:'[ ^""Mce was 
>."""«. Wc- shall have •, ■' ''"' ""' """" i» 

'"'^•••a <l"s a,„l „„„„ r- , , Z T"'"': """'" ""*■""■ ''- 

"."••• -"" -aam, ,iriv,;:a:;';,f ■•'''"« r"""-- 

P"i«: around us. ^ '^ ""• ^'^•t-'rytlnn^r ^jrip. 

i^^^^^iivilm^ro-'h";-;':^ 

'V./..,/,;,, .../^n :" '•^' '"'"^' '-^--^^ «ti" fancy free. 

«rrived at 'twelve th ,;"'"''" ^^'"'^^^ '*-'-» ' 
iM »^'>v- uns inortiHiif fo r.,i, 

^"'^y none of them knew it i H ! , '^'^'^^."'^ P'^^-. 



'!'!!!■ 



arc 



CH. vr 

"f llie same. 
:ter was 20° 
'■t^— a differ- 
riJinary that 

>rtable,and 
" tlie suni- 

il'ivf this 
liad to re- 

?.? visitors, 
I't'cn e.\- 

t on every 

■ered rink 
iiccessfnl, 

^^a mi It on 
r, which, 
1 drop in 
^1 for de- 
i<I, "Oh! 
■t-'ligioiis 

ice was 

inter is 
V//V he- 
iiil"»ssi. 
K ilrip. 

Its are 
<ree. 
iison ' 
piece, 
arc 



MARCH 1873 OP/:X/X(; OF rAKI.lAMllXT. 
Fred and Mr. C 



73 



^reU and Mr. Coulson, Colonel and Mrs. Stuart, and a 
nice-lookinjr Miss Himsworth. After hnuh the'rcst of 
the world arrived to skate. It was a lovely afternoon, 
and they practiced the lancers, while I looked on at the 
t()bo^;raninJ,^ and just missed seeing a disagreeable si^rht. 
Little Kdward Fletcher was standmj^r tlreamin.ir in the 
middle of the hill, and as a tobo;,rjran was coming fast 
down upon him the |)eople on the toj) shouted to him to 
get out of the way: but he did not hear, and the tobog- 
gan, with a young lady in it, lifted him right up m the 
air. She got her eye cut, and had a bump on her fore- 
head. It might have been a i)ad accident. 

After the outdoor |)arty we had a dance to warm 
ourselves, and all went home at 6.,^o. 

Sir John and I.ady Mac.lonald, and M. Langevin, 
arrived, to stay till Monday. Sir John is the I'rnnJ 
Minister, and .\I. Langevin the I'ublic Works, who has 
built our ball-room and does all our improvements. 

Moihhiy, .JA//,7/. v.— To-morrow the Session, with its 
duties, connnences. 

Tui\u/ay,4(/i.—\s the dancing is over for the present, 
I have been !)usy all morning refurnishing my big draw- 
ing-r<.„m, which has hithert.. been kept as a ball-room 
Ihe new room is nearly ready, and is very handsome 
It IS to be opened as a theatre, and we are having such 
a pretty stage put up. I.ady Harriet Fletcher has come 
over to s|)end a few days, for a change, and to help me 
to entertain Mrs. Howland. 

We had our Cabinet dinner; all men. except I,.ndy 
Harriet and me, the two ladies of the house. I sat be- 
tween the Prime Minister, Sir John, and the Postmaster- 
(.cneral, Mr, Campi)ell. They were both very pleasant 
neighi)()rs. All were in uniform, and all full of anima- 
tion and ready for the fray. 

IVtiinesiiay, jt/,.~-\\\ the aftcrn(.un, 1). dressed in uni- 



74 



.VK CAXADIAX JOCA'XAL 



ill 



J 



CH. VI 

^.rm, and drcye in a sleiffh-and-four, escorted by troops. 
A I.C.s, and secretaries, to direct his faithful Lords 
and Commons to choose a Speaker. This did not take 
very ion,, and on his return we went and sat at the 
Knik n, delicious sunshine for a couple of hours 

////^'■.v;/</)',^///.-The openin^r of J'arliament. MavinLr 

";lress,n the .nidclle of the day. I was la.v, and dul 

'"t appear at all till I was auayed in my linerv His 

Kx. wore the (;overn<,r's uniform, like that 'of the 

m lent '1;";' '■ "''" "' '^- ^ ''^"^'^' -^^' -'^j^^j 

• U.pt on a the tmie. Mrs. Howland and I, Mr. 
at .sson and Mr. Curtis, went in the f.rst carria.^e, M.ss 
a^-e and three children in the ne.xt. Ue arrived some 
-nc before the C.overnor-Ceneral, and I was conducted 
to my seat by the Gentleman-Usher of the JJlack Rod 
he Chamber looked very well. I sat to the left of 
the throne, and down each side of the Senate were rows 
of ladies ,n full dress ; the Senators were on tne floor of 
he Hou.se, and the galleries were full to the ceilinir 
clrove in an open slei,.h with four horses, accompanied 
)> Mr. How and and Colonel Fletcher. Mr. Holbeach 
nllowed with Fred. As they came up to the buildinjr 
twenty-one ffuns were fired. The HIack Rod met the 
procx^ssion and walked backwards, bowing all the way, 
H.s Ivxcellency ^^ettin^r more stern-looking everv minute. 
VVhen the procession arrived at the Senate-Chan.ber, we 
all stood up, and waited until the Governor-C.eneral 
having taken his seat on the throne, re.p.ested us to be 

The Cornmons were sent for. and we sat in solemn 
sdence till they came. D. then read his speech, first in 
laiirhsh, and then all over ajjain in French ; and everv- 
thing that was said was repeated in the two lan^uiaKt^s 
I hen (olonel Fletcher carried the speeches to the 
Speakers of both Houses, and so the ceremony ended, 



CH. VI 

1 by troops, 
hful I.ortls 
id not take 
sat at the 
irs. 

t. Havinjr 
-^y, aiul did 
iit-ry. His 
lat of the 
nd cocked 
ind I, Mr. 
'iii^v, Miss 
ived some 
coiuhicted 
lack Rod. 
lie left of 
were rows 
le fl(jor of 
le ceiling. 

om])anied 

Holbeach 

l)tiilding 

met the 

the way, 

y minute. 

mher, we 

-General, 

ns to be 

1 solemn 
1, first in 
d every- 
iijiiuajfes. 
to the 
y ended, 



MARCH 1873 r.iA'/.iAMr.xr.tKv d/xxeks. 



and we went awav a 



75 



s we came. 'I'he children were 
much interested, hut remarked upon Papa's gravity; 
they thought it a pn^pcr occasion to be wreathed in 
smiles. 

Saiur(/(iy, cW/.— We had rather a pleasant dinner- 
party of Ministers. Mr. and Mrs. Howland seemed 
very happy, and she looked very smart in blue velvet. 
The Speaker of the Senate came to stay with us. 

Monday, lo/i. — Tlie frost seemed to have returned, 
so we sent out our invitations for a skating-party for 
this afternoon. The day was, however, too lovely, and 
the ice, which had been in splendid order, got cpiile soft. 
It is possible to be happy on doubtful ice here, as we 
know there is no water under it, and that it is only snow 
sprinkled. The skaters kept in one shady corner, and I 
and my guests sat on the brink, and were cpiite warm 
and comfortable. 

We had another dinner-party — our farewell entertain- 
ment to the Mowlands. 

Tuesday, nt/i.—'SU. and Mrs. Howland left this morn- 
ing in a snowstorm, ami we remained in the house all 
day. (Ireat arrangements and discussions go on about 
the coming Drawing-room: Who is to have the <7///vr? 
Who is to have seats? Which way are these people to 
come in, and whith way those ? Where is Her Excel- 
lency's cloak to be taken off? etc., etc. Then I, — not 
being very well, and having meekly asked to have a tall 
office-stool behind me. against which I miifht occasion- 
ally lean, — an architect and several carpeiU.-rs have been 
busily engaged in making a design — ground-plan and 
elevation — of a complicated and splendid erection, 
crowned by a vase of (lowers, and covered with crims(>n, 
which is to appear as a part of the throne, but which is 
to be scooped out for me to sit on ; and a recpiest for 
my exact height has been forwarded to me, that all may 




76 



Ih 



n 



Ji if 



^/y CANADI.iX JOURXAL. 



CH. VI 



be correct. Tl 



bcr, aiul bf;th Houses of J'arl 



Ills ceremony uill l,e in the Senate-Cha 



th( 



m- 

le occasion. ""'^"''' ''"''" ^^>'"^"^-J for 

\\'e also had a discussion as to whether we could put 

of our t eatr.cals on Thursday, for Mar.o and Carlotta 

atti, who were to have ^^iven a concert to-day, have 

been snowbound, and can not ,.et here untU thai day 

cppcr s (,host IS also teann^r its hair at the number of 
gayet,es .n Ottawa, and wrote an entertaining ap, L t 
U to come hn.self on Friday, so we could n.'t ake .e 
•hos sday; after much consideration we keep Ti u 
day. but try to ,.et Mario and C. i'atti to sin,, a o ' 
here a fer our play; it will l.e very nice if thej an do 
o. lhearran,.ement of our political dinners also re 
<iu.res some thought. We have to stu<Iy wh.ch pa ty the 
proposed guests belong to: wh.ch provinc ,' " ^t ' 
nchor Kngbsh-Upper or Lower Canada, thei. 
c.al K.smon, etc., etc., so that the dinners ma; be m.l 
as pleasant as possible to the guests 

h.d''^tr'''' "^''-'^''^ ^-^ '-^- -'d warm, and ice 
bad. ^Ve are .sorry, as this evening two very irood 

ttc ,|r«se,l incur l.ist for the nrawin<r.r„„m n,„i 

tl..> K'nu,d arrangements we got „„t at the vvr 2 ,. 
b..t everyth.ng else wen, „ff verv well. The Mi' ' J 
WC'.U ,n w„h ns, an,l we st„„.l l./.he thr.,„e-I w I „v 

::,'rr;;::;;r "■'""■-'"' -•"•---:i; 

n„n,l.n; ,jll,.-\Wt had a great party to-night and 

° r.;; "",'• -»■ ' •■• •'■"■= «..-.» assembled -tt n e 

a..d after hav.ng some tea were e,..„.!„c,ed through u,' 



CH. VI 

late-Cham- 
ourned for 

■ could put 
d Carl(;tta 
■day, have 

that day ; 
-uming to 
rood deal, 
luimber of 
appeal to 

take the 
"P Thiirs- 
!«■ a song 
-y can do 
I also re- 
party the 

whether 
their so- 
hti made 

and ice 
ry gootl 
and one 

om, and 
te of all 
ig door, 
tinisters 
kvith my 
I'll a tors, 

:Iit, and 
It nine, 
igh un- 



MARi;n 1873 



T//£A TRIG A IS. 



77 



known passages to their future ball-room, where they 
found 300 chairs arranged m rows, in front of a very 
pretty little stage, and a band dressed in the gorgeous 
uniform of the (lovernor-Cleneral's (iuards. 'l"he enter- 
tainment began with music, and was followed by " To 
Oblige IJenson," which went off admirably. People 
were particularly delighted with Fred's performance- 
he did the i)art of Trotter Southdown; and Mrs. South- 
down was excellent, too. 

Just as they finished, Mario and M. Saury, a violin- 
player, arrived. They came as guests, and would hear 
of no terms. After a little, I), asked Mario to sing, and 
the audience were greatly delighted at his doing so 
twice. The vit)lin-player was also a great treat. It was 
wonderfully kind of both gentlemen to perform for us, 
as they only arrived at Ottawa at five in the afternoon, 
and came direct from a concert. This delightful music 
made our party a great success. We went straight into 
sujjper afterward, and it took some time to feed and 
"si)eed " the parting 300. 

Friday, i4tli.—\ kept this as a ilay of rest, and in 
the evening dispatched my young party, under Lady 
Harriet's chaperonage, to see " I'ejjper's Ohost." She 
does not seem to have been a good duenna, for she said 
"good night " to the young men and m;iidcns directly 
they were seated, and slept composed! .hrough the 
whole lecture. 

SatttrdiiY, 75///. — It began to pour with rain this after- 
noon, and the roads were very bad for our dinner-i)arty. 
We had one of thirty people — the first of a long series 
of similar dinners to be given every Saturday for three 
months. The guests were culled from all parts of Can- 
ada ; we had representatives from the shores of the 
Atlantic, the Pacific, the St. Lawrence, Lake Huron; 
Upper and Lower Canadians, French, English and Scotch, 



!l 



78 



■I! 



:|| 



^/y CAXAD/AX /OUAW'AL. 



CIL VI 

cn::;!;;t).^''' '"'^'""""^ ^^^ conservatives (the Gov- 

and'h!.";f'' '""'^ ""^ ''^^>' •'•''' ^ ''^ '^'-v fearfully 
ri ""^"' '" ' ''^'y '-«^ -"^-v ,n our new 

J/W.,, .7M.-Another young ladv, a Miss Mac 
P erson from Toronto, came to stay wuhus. so no. .^ 
have representatives of the three .rr^^-.f t 
house. *' '^^ ^"^^■"'^ '" our 

iycd/lt'S(/a\\ /0//5.— We werp nut -.11 ♦! 

♦ ,.„ ; • / ^ ^"^^ ""' ^" the morn ns-' but 

the ice IS soft and the snow wet 

Two tourists came to skate, in wonderful costumes- 

r.ped red-anu-yellow stocking., moccasins, brigl bL' 

blanket-coats with embr<„dered shoulder-piece and 

Alban.an scarfs round the.r waists. We ask d til. to 

dme with us before the play. 

F,rst"St"""n""'M"'''"''' ""' ""'''^'''''^ -^h "The 
bv if ,^ , . "^ ^"°'' ^"^ '""■'^^ splendidly done 

y M. K.mber. and the singing introduced before and 
clunng the piece was excellent 

/'W.n', 2m.-l took a drive in the afternoon, and at 
four went to the Houses of Parliament to pay mv rs 
v.s.t there. I have a seat on the floor o the Ho e 
next to the Speaker's. The business was not v ry i t .' 
estmg, but I was rather amused, as a number of people 
made very short speeches, and one saw their "tricks 
and their manners." 

Sa/unfay, 29th -\n the evening we had a large Par- 
I.amentary dmner. One of my near neighbors was very 
-nterest.ng. He .s a ■' working-man - n.ember ; we 1 ad 
met h.m soon after his election, when he dined in a 
rough coat but now he wears evenmg clothes ; he talked 
•so l^leasantly, and was full of information. One of our 
Ruest.s, a French c:anadian, made great efforts to reach 
t.^c nursery when he heard the children romping up- 



M 



en. VI 
(ilie Gov- 

fearfully, 
our new 

^liss Mac- 
io now we 
ns in our 

ning; but 

:;oHtumes : 

'ight blue 

eces, and 

Miem to 

ith " The 
idly done 
■(ore and 

n, and at 
my first 

Mouse, 
ry iiuer- 
f people 

" tricks 

■Jje Par- 
f'as very 
we iiad 
cd in a 
i talked 
of our 
o rcacli 
ing up- 



APRiL 1873 PARUAMEXTARY DIXXERS. 



79 



stairs, and told nic he was most curious to see " le lord." 
I think he imagined Archie* must be very i)eculiar. 

lVt'iiucs(/av, April 2d. — We drove into Ottawa on 
wheels. I), goes \\\ every week to have titc-a-titc inter- 
views with different Members of Parliament. This even- 
ing there was a vote of want of confidence in the Gov- 
ernment, but the Ministers won by thirty-three. 

We had " Benson " ft)r the last time ; very well done, 
and much appreciated. The children helped to warm 
up the audience by their shrieks of delight. 

Friday, 4th. — Two men dined with us; one, the 
Speaker of the Legislature in Manitoba, wiio has lately 
been tarred-and-feathered i)y the people, and who came 
to relate his experiences of that operation. The other, 
a Mr. Otley — a nephew of Sir Hastings Doyle's, who has 
been engineering near the Rock) .Nb)untains — has walked 
hundreds of miles on snow-shoes, lived for months on 
salt pork, been eaten by moscpiitoes in summer, ard 
slept and lived, unprepared for winter, in an atmosphere 
40° below zero. He came out with us in the Prussian. 

Tuesday, Sth. — I went to the House, as a scrimmage 
was expected. First, there was great excitement over 
the Easter holidays— what length they should be— and 
then a party motion about which there was a great deal 
of interest. The Opposition had asked for a Committee 
to intpiire into the conduct of members of the Govern- 
ment, accusing them of bribery. They lost, and then 
the Government itself ask-nl for the same Committee, 
saying they courted inquiry. There was a good deal of 
irritation about the whole affair. 

Tuesday, /j/Z/.—The two Miss Rethuncs arrived yes- 
terday to stay a week with us, and we opened our new 
ball-room this evening. It is a fine room, very lofty and 



Viscuuiit Claiulcboyc, 



I 




80 



^/V CAXADIAX JOURXAL, 



cir. VI 



wcll-proportionecl. It has not yet 1 



decorated it with white-and-bl 
bunches of pink roses. 'J'hese 



and doors, and 
pillar 



appeared to be twisted 



yet been painted, so we 
ue twists of tarlatan and 
-Micircied all the wind 



pillars af,'ainst the wall and ac 



ows 
round the flat 



crimsrtn throne was at 



on 



ross the corners. Th( 



e end of the ro 



was a place for the band at the other. Th 



oni, and there 



hall, billiard- and te 



:i-r 



my boudoir, and th 



oonis, the i)as,sajre lead 



tlie latter beinjr jijrhted 
lar^re drawinjr-rooin and d 
f 



e conservatory, looked very 



with ("hinese lant 



e ante-room, 

up to 

pretty, 



"iR 



erns. 



'Ih( 



'•r supi)er, and seated 140 at a t 



'iiinjr.,,,,,,,, were both arran^^'d 



were present, and, they say, all were pleased 



'lie. Some 650 peopU 



T/iurs<iay, M,iv /s/. — 'III 



weather. The sun 1 



is week we have had loveh 



We h 



s (piite hot, and I 



;ive put up a tent on the 1, 



ani out all day, 



the family play football, marl 



oth 



er Kames, to the «:rc-at drli-lu of 



iwn, and every aft 
>les, prisoner's base, 



ernoon 



We find Pari 



'anient is likely to sit another ten d, 



sn we aave jrjven up all idea of 



anc 



I vs. 



present. We are rather afraid ,.f the 1 
qnitoes here, hut it can not be helped. 



movin;,r to Qudje, 



at 



leat and the mo.'- 



Fiiifaw 2d.~\ 
noticeinthepaper that I should [ 



ncourayed by the lovely weather, I put 



intending' to receive penpl 



)e "at home " to-d 



»y, 



I)and there, and at five to Ut tl 



le in the j^rarden, have tea and 



the ball-room. '|'h 



lose who liked dance 



m 



miserable, and the after 



e mornmj.- was, however, cold and 



t<» sit in the dr 

and they danced ind 



loon poured with rain: so I had 



iwuiy-room. About fifty peopi 



oors all the t 



e came. 



I'-Tcntly ,p,i,e happy. Nine child 



amusements, the littl 
quite at home with the st 



ime, and were ap- 
ren took part in the 



<• ones likiiij; (he band, and 



Satitn/it 



faiiyers. 



Ketlin^f 



t"-Uay, anti f 



I'. ..V.—The provoking weati 



am under my tent 



ler was line aL'a 



in 



once more. Mr. ami 




CH. VI 



MAY 1873 



I'A'/A'CE EDWARD'S iSLAXD. 



8r 



Mrs. Ryan and her dauKliter arrivc'd from Montreal to 
stay Sunday with us. Mr. Ryan is a very pleasant Irish 
Senator, his wife a very nice Swiss-Kreneh laily. for 
whom he waited forty years, she marrying some one else 
in the meantime. 

Tfii/rsJay, m.~-\ saw Lady Macdonald on 'liies- 
day, the day that Sir John nuule his splenchd speech 
in the House, with which 1-red was so greatly de- 
lighted. 

Fn\/,i\\ (^t/i.—\ advertised that I should be "at home 
between three and six " this afternoon. Part of the en- 
tertainment was to be out of do(.rs, and i)ar . '{'he 
weather was very doubtful all the morning; but we took 
courage, had the tea laid on the lawn, put up a tent and 
down a carpet, turned the drawing-room chairs out into 
the garden, and at three were rewarded !)y the com- 
mencement of a really fine afternoon. 

I received in the tent, and the company sat and 
walked about listening to the duards' baud till after 
four, when they went into tlie ball-room and tianced very 
vigorously for the rest of the time; but I stayed in the 
garden and watched the dancers come <»ut to the tc, 
and talked to a few of the old people, though most of 
them danced, too. 

Safitr.hy, fo///.^y\r. Coulson left us to-day. We were 
sorry to lose liim, and, I think, he was sorry to go. He 
joins his regiment (r)oth Ritles) at Halifax. 

We had our last Tarliamentary dinner for this Ses- 
sion. 'I'he I'rime Minister of Prince Kdward's Island 
and some colleagues of his, wli(» are here to try and 
arrangt; about joining the Confederation, dined. 



U'luhirstfaw A.////.— Fred went to d 



ine in Ottawa, Lady 



Harriet was having tea with me, and 1)., the (^)l()nel, and 
tl-.e l^ortor were looking for fossils, when, to my great 
surprise, T,ord (leorgc ('ampl)el! was annoiinced— the 



f 



82 



^1/K CAXAD/AJV /OURXAL. 



CII. VI 



Duke of Argyll's sailor son. \Vc sent to the hotel for 



liis tliinj(s 



ThursJay, /j///._ l-Ved took 



the afternoon ih 
liiake to the House 



our jrucst a ride, and ii 



ey went with I. 



W 



dy n 



irriet and Miss 



arr 



anj^^ed for a yonn;^^ ladv wl 



«.■ Iiad a dinner-party, which 



was 



Kn>,dishir.an. 



i<» IS K"Iu;j: to marry ai 



and who wanted to dine here l)ef 



'•re she 



went home. We asked two other ,drls, and put the smart 
ynun.Mnan between them! O.idly enou.d,. an old ship- 
'> .'te of h.s. whom he had not seen for four years, was 
also at dnmer. 

Prince Kdward's Island has eome into the Confeder- 
at.on. so the dovernor-denerai's dominion iseniarued; 
but he loses one of his titles. '*'t.^". 

.W./.;r .rt'<.~\ li„K. 'jriH ,vas horn this day. and 
the Queen has telegraphed that she will he her V^od- 
mother. *' 






en. VI 

! hotel for 



U\ and in 
and Miss 
tvliich was 
marry an 
ilorc she 
I hi- smart 
old sliip- 
ears, was 

"onfi'dcT- 
:iilargcd ; 

(lay, and 
Ikt j4{)d- 



a 
1 



('HAl'TKR VH. 



ON rilK sr. I,AWKI.M K. 



TufSi/iiY, June iotli.~\SKi lift Ottawa this morninjj 
very early, jj^oiny by rad to I'rcscott, with our whole 
family, tlu' mw baby ini-liidcd. 'I'lurr wo j,rot into a 
steamer, and sat all day on deck. We had a deli;,dilful 
cruise down the river, and an excitin;,' descent of the 
Rapids. In one i)lace we passed within a few inches of 
a wreck, and we felt ipiite creepy. At Montreal we 
changed steamers. The children were deli;,ditcd witli 
the ^nandeur of the .St. Lawrence boats, with their enor- 
mous saloons and state-cai)ins. When we were at tea 
we heard some music — the "Dead March " — Ijcin^r 
played; and looking: out. wi- saw, passinj^ slowly in tiie 
darkness, the steamer with the body of Sir (leorjje ('ar- 
tier* on board; it was a strikin;,^ moment— tlie chapel 
on board Ii^^hled up. the band playinjr. and l)ells tollin^j 
at sea, answered by i)ells tollinjj on shore. 

U'eiincsihy, ////t.—Wc awoke at Quebec, and found it 
wet and cold. In spite of the weather and the early 
hour, we had a friendly welcome fn.m the pef)ple. 
MoiiJay, i6tli.-'X\w little baby's christcninjr-day ' 
A larjre bouquet had been sent me in the mornin)^^, 



• Sir (a'dfKc Carlior, lalc memlicr for Munlrcnl r.ist. \m\ <lif<l in 
En^;Iallll. He wuh n (lesii'iidniit of the fuinous Jan|iu'<i ("nrlicr wlio. in 
1534, '•'"••- i«»s5«i53ion of Cmada in t!ic jiainc of IVauti., 1, King of 
Franco. 



I 



84 



^fy caa;ad/a.v journal. 




V\\. \'\X 

a.Hi iH-autifuI Hou-cTs for the font, by Mr I cvi Tl 
Cathedral was full of neonl.. • T i, . ", "'^' 

drcn there md tL ' '^ "^v whole six ehil- 

victoria Alexandrma Muriel M'iv"iw.i,. i . . ''"> 

-.....,,.,. u..,,,.,,,:i :---;- 

Mct.her, "^rodmother"- Sir r,.hM \\f , ' ■ ''' 

-';- . ^^.. and a ^.;,:;:./tcL !;;: -::^^^ 

j^^^^^^^_ 'M>t^v,a„d to knock down ail the prayer- 

^Ve came home and rested a little -ind -.f f 
"at homi^ " 'n, "uie, and at four I was 

H.» e ',; :r;':;':;,^ "',"""," '•^' "■• """ '"■■ "- 

I lu-re IS a new I-ieutcnant-Oovernor Ii^m ..,. i i 

- -, I-.. fa,„ii>.. ,„„ .■,,,,,,,1,,,.; ;, ;; ;; ° 



rn. vif 

-cvi. 'I'he 
'e six chil- 
'w. Lady 
i<imiral)ly, 
tlfliiyc of 

:— Afysclf 
I-ady H. 
ki, '^frnd- 

s |>rcst'iit. 

Ilail;,r|,ty, 

t'ltorts to 
L' J)rayer- 

11 r I was 
-rs went 
eiiin^r to 
vork an- 

stir for 

iif was 

IKISSC'd 
IX'St. I 

sliaken 
do you 

\. I). C. 

ki'Il I'll- 
family 
lu'alth. 
ctions. 
til five 
nvcnt, 

as he 

State 

it (ai;t 



JUNK 1873 



VICE REG A L FUXC TIONS. 



85 



established is, that the Governor-deneral and I, on pid)- 
lic occasions, walk first ; Mis Honor, the Lieutenant- 
(lovernor and his wife follow. Ikil the five Lieutenant- 
Princesses have also to be seated in proper positions, 
and when (as to-day) I take three of my family the 
A. 1). C'.s tear their hair! Priests met lis at the convent 
door, and we proceeded to the room where the prizes 
were to be Riven, which was filled with ju-ople. 'I'lie 
nuns did not api)ear at all. I found in front of me trays 
full of books, and as the names of the winners were read 
out, with an account of their various merits, they walked 
past, and I presentetl them with books. There were at 
least 200 prizes, every )rirl in the school, I am sure, hav- 
ing jrained from one to six "rewards of merit." I'hen 1 
crowned six of the most remarkal)ly virtuous younjj 
ladies. The first three wreaths, alas I I imt on wronjr 
side foremost, but perceiving' that the },nrls managed to 
turn them round, I was more care ful, and was at the end 
complimented ui)on the way m which I placed them on 
their heads. Between each trayful of books we had 
music. The ceremony lasted two hours. One lady 
fainted, but the children bore it admirably, and I took 
them to a field of cut grass to refresh them when it was 
over. 

We dined at six, for we liad to go out early to cele- 
brate the 200th anniversary of the discovery of the Mis- 
sissippi. "Why on earth?" you will exclaim. Well, I 
don't (|uite know why, but tlie J.aval University has to 
find some object for a yearly fck, and tiie discoverers 
were French-Canatlians. 

'I'he celeI)ration was a tremendous affair. For three 
hours I sat on a very hard and stately arm-chair, with 
my I.ieutenant-Ciovernor beside me, on my right an 
empty space, on the other side of which .sat His Ex. and 
his I.ieutenant-doverness. 



i|!r 



! ! 

r i 



ll I ' 



ii 



86 



Ary CAXADIAN JOURNAL. 



c\\. vri 



Fnday, 2oth.-\\'^ christened a large new ship this 
mor„,n,.-the luul of Duffnin. The day seemed fine, 
but heavy showers ,an)e <.n. The ship is on the. stocks 
at present, and I had great difficultv in breaking the bot- 
tle, as the rope was badly hung, and when I aimed at 
he narrow bow it would swing away. At the third ef- 
fort, however, I succeeded. 

In the evening we attended a concert given in aid of 
the widow of a poor gunner who was killed by the burst- 
"it^ cf a gun the day before we arrived here 

Saturday, 2nt.--\S^ drove down to our new yacht 
Ihe (.overnment has fitted up . vessel for us-the 
nnmi Most charming cabins are arranged for me, and 
everythmg is perfect for yachting-but I have to com- 
bine sador clothes with garments enough for two months 
ot \ iceregal ceremonies, which would be diffuult even 
on the Great Eastern. I fear Dent will go mad with the 
agony of crushnig my things into •' bunkers." My cabin 
has a comfortable bed, a hanging-press, and a large 
glass, ornamented with pink ribbon and muslin I) Ins 
an excellent cabin off ft, and Dent another. The dm'- 
mg-room is paneled with chintz and light wood, and 
l<red sleeps on one of the sofas there. We have a nice 
after-cabm for a drawing-room, and Lady Harriet and 
the Colonel have small rooms off ,t. To-night baby 
sleeps on board with her two nurses, and we sail for Ta- 
do u sac. 

.SV///./,n., .W-After breakfast we went to our now 
house at Tadousac. It is so pretty, with red roof, green 
I' Hu is, and white walls. We have a platform, upon 
wh,(-h we sit and look out upon the St. Lawrence, and on 
to which all the sitting-rooms open. The children will 
1 think, be very happy and comfortable here until our 
return, for we do not remain here now. 

-^\m„.. .!.. , ,^^ .h rived, so there was no 



.. 



CH. VII 



JUNE 1873 



TADOL'SAC. 



87 



\ M 



service. We sat on the sands and paddled a little in D.'s 
Rice I-ake canoe — the Lady May. Tlien we returned to 
our ship to dine and sleep. 

Monday, ^^V.— Such a stormy morning. IKnt, my 
precious maid, wild about her boxes, and j.,nvinji warninj^ 
f)n the spot ; myself m despair, for she isalreasure. On 
shore another valuable member of our household also in 
a tantrum about something, ami when I land I must en- 
counter her. Dent will, I trust, calm down, for 1 really 
can't bear the idea of losin^r her. 

An address was presented to His Ex by the Ta- 
dousacians on the occasion of his becoming a house- 
holder here. 

We gave a house-warming, and had the Curt?, and the 
Scpiire's agent and his daughter, and our captain to din- 
ner. We sat on our balcony till nine o'clock, and then 
came on board. 

Tuesday, 2.////.— We started in a boat directly after 
breakfast to see the sahiion-fishery, and saw ten fish 
caught in a lal)yrinth. 

Il'rd/irsday, .^.,-///.— The anniversary of our arrival in 
Canada. We left Tadousac during the night, and had a 
most hjvely day on board, sitting out reading; the 
weather perfect. We reached the mouth of the (lod- 
bout in the afternoon, anil the owners, or, rather, the 
hirers, of that river came on board to bring us two 
salmon, and to make plans for to-morrow. They are 
Mr. (iilmour, Mr. Cross, and Mr. Muir. 

T/it/rsdav, ^^///.-— We got up before six o'clock, and 
started for the shore. In the night the wind iiail risen 
a little, and we were in the happy iiosition of being an- 
chored in a swell. However, we got safely to the river, 
which was quite smooth, and the weather beautifully 
warm. We breakfasted at the wooden huts, and fished 
all day. It was almost too fine for the salmon; they 



; I I 



88 



^tV CANADIA.V /OUR:VAL. 



jimiped and frisked about under 



CH. VII 



"i>t rise, so that after 
only three fish to she 
thro 



our noses, and would 



many hours' hard work th 



w. Fred 



ere were 



w, but did no more aft 



The Colonel retired to bed 
but the swell is better ! 
J'n'iay,27th.~.\). and C 



^•au^rht one his very f.rst 
^r this hopeful beginning. 



on his return to the sh 



in the 



olonel Fletch( 



momu g ,„ fish and I h'" """ "^ "^'^^ 

1'. had »™e fu„ with o„Vl,l "'"^ '""" '"""■ '»'<■ 

i"to the water b,u held ,?T V" ''"'""'"'^ " '« f"" 
had to array hi,„,t\ r ,'" """ '','"' '^""'^ ''^ "e 
we returned to „ , s i/ we f "," f"""'''' """ -hen 

1'. had to carry ,,,Mns, ,„rr::::d';::r-^^'«-. - 

-="";-t::rr'"ntr::^'^'-''--" 
-t;r;-::,;-rf-=a^=; 

feeding then,. '""'""^" «"l> Pvn.s then, baths and 
__.^ A ro,„h.|ooki„g evening, we are to start during the 

splendid harbor tins nSr'nhuf ■";"""'' ""''^^''^^'^ '" « 
the slightest movei^r ro" ", "' ^'"" '""^'^'■- ^-' 
"" the other we see a bf ,'"'' '' ^" '^'and, and 

warns, thei. nicdy b.i't I ^'"'7'''' "' ^"^"-^ ^'^- 

in^^ to the .. Ho or be '" """'-" '""'^"^ ^^■'""^- 

Wchadservicei;;r^^^::K[^!-"-'-n'sI^a>^. 

A priest visits these o ut "f /i '""^^ ""'"^ ^^^'^"'•^• 
year, and he happens t^ . r' „ t'^'Tir';"-: "'"^ ^ 
very obedient to him -nul -.r X , '' ^"^'''^"'^ ^''^ 

-as very picture, t' t se' tl "mT" " ^'"' ^^'^'>'- '^ 
^^'"""•" 'I'-^-ssed in\ru vTi T'' '•' ^'''urch.the 






iP 



CH. VII 



June 1873 



LVDIAXS IX CHAPEL. 



89 



red, pointed nightcaps), their babies and children with 
them. We followed them into the ehapcl, and found all 
the squaws S(|uatting on one side, and the men on the 
other. They sang a Canticle— the women one verse, the 
men the ne.vt ; the music was a melancholy wail, with 
very few notes, and the voices of the singers were thin 
and weak, but it was interesting and curious. 1 sh(niid 
like to have stayed till the end, but the Chief began 
to get us chairs, and to bring us into notice, so we 
left. 

We walked across the little peninsula on which the 
chapel is, got into our canoes on the river Mingan, and 
paddled up to look at the fishing ground. It is at the 
foot of a very pretty waterfall. 

The I'riest and the Captain dined with us. The 
former is a pleasant man. He is just going up to the 
Esquimaux. He is very ill at sea, and has before him a 
voyage in a small schooner which may last three weeks. 
These missionary priests have hard lives. We were told 
that on Saturday he had scarcely had anything to eat, 
the Indians having nothing to give him. The huts here 
are made of poles very lightly covered with birch-bark; 
in each of these tents seven or eight families live. 

The priest in his yearly visits to these Indians ar- 
ranges all of a suitable age in couples, and marries 
them; and there is a total absence of all love-making. 
They are very moral: drink (when they can get it) and 
laziness being their sins. Those we have seen here are 
hideous. 

There is a great meeting at a place called Rersimis 
once a year, and all the Indians, that can, go there; the 
greater part of the marriages take place then. The 
Chief had on a black frock-coat ornamented with epau- 
lets. He called I). " Hrother." The same man received 
one of our Princes when they came hef", and saluted 



90 

him in the 



^/K CA.VADIAIV JOURNAL. 



CH VII 



on h 



IS 



same 
i)reast 



way, th<;n showed h 



Afomiay, joth __\\- 



and said, " I'a 



im a medal he 



mere; tii co 



wore 



nnais ? 



canoes up the M 



t'^'t up at six, and 



The three rods fish 



'"^^an. it is about 



went in our 



ed 



an hour's paddit 



one a twenty-pound fish ; th 



away, and I), caught two sal 



eleven o'clock, though tl 
became 



's was all th 



nion. 



very hot at this t 



lere were about t 
me, and we went 



e success before 



en rises. Jt 



^<' wait for the cool of tl e hv n ' '''"' T '""■ ^^'"'^ 
and in getfn<. nito thl ^ ^ " "" ^^^""tleme., bathed, 

sv,iuM^ Muo the canoe to vo to \h,. k-h . 

«-"= u,«e,, and wc. all thdr clones "•"'""^.'i"''™ 

India: ::::j":;ru':;;v" '''^"' "'"'"« "«»"•• «■"- a„ 

We returned i„,„,edia.ely We "^ /"""•■'' ""'"■■'^■"• 

l.ad been ea " 'Z^ '"l""' '">' " "''='^'= '" '"-"I he 
of the water wh„ h „ i ' *?;; "" "'" '"'"" "' '"" "'•-"= 

.>.e water is ve^y dee"" lt:::V;;:.;',r ""l'"'' '"' 
stantly slipped He „„ , V ' ° "■'"'• a"'l "■- 
q«i.o.veil I e ha.i on' „T " "^ '", '''" "" » -- 

c-ived after ,n„,. ..uT'i,;";: ; rrr'ir ,, '''rr?"" 

'I'e poor dead hod'v „ ' tlfl, r„ "^ "' "',''"'' ''"<=" 
".'h. in t,,e water, tl,eL:;Lr,„;i:S-^''-''-P- 

-«>k P a.e- iC'nll '"","';'"'='< '"-'lay the ftuteral 
possible nta'r^'rr ,";. n n^ln i",^™: "-\»"" "ery 
Ihe erew attended and .'; j" 'V ' ■" "'"'"'"■ '^" 



u: ! 



CH VII 



JULY 1873 



FISHIXG. 



91 



Wednesday, 2d.—t\\. three o'clock to-day we started 
to go up the river. 

The fishermen are not very fortunate; the salmon 
are not rising, and the greater part of those that have 
been landed have been hooked by the tail or in the 
back. Fred caught five; one weighed 23' Jbs., ami it 
was taken in a curious way : the hook never touched it, 
but it was caught in a ncxjse round the tail. Colonel 
Fletcher got two, but 1). was very unlucky. 

The morning was extremely foggy, but the afternoon 
was fine, and we dined out on the rocks, and came on 
board to a late tea. 

Thursday, jd. — The fishermen again left in the after- 
noon and went to sleep up at the Waterfall. The night 
was wet, and there was thunder and lightning. 

Friday, 4th. — Lady Harriet and I went up the river 
after lunch with the Captain, who is to have some fish- 
ing. The salmon will not rise, and it was in vain that 
everybody tried every dodge to entice them; they will 
not be caught. We dined on the rocks, and left our 
gentlemen in their tents for another day, coming back 
again with the Captain, who was, I fear, much disap- 
pointed with his want of success. We reached the ship 
in such a fog ! 

Saturday, ^t/i.—Wo. spent a quiet day on board, and 
only went ashore for half an hour, to visit Mrs. Scott, 
the wife of the Hudson's Ikiy Agent. She is a French- 
Canadian, and must live a lonely life here. We also 
went to look at the grave of our poor man. The gen- 
tlemen returned in the evening, and we had another wet 
night. They had had very bad sport. It turns out that 
the foot of a waterfall is an impossible place to fish in. 
The salmon do not rise at all, but a great many get foul- 
hooked; this accounts for our ill-success. 

Sunday, dif'i. — We had intended leaving the Mingan 



ga 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



cir. VII 

t"-|'ay. huf it is too stormy. VVe had prayers on bonrd 
«... th<n went for a walk on th. island, L\ Zv.rt 
foss.U, m\ saw a live seal, a flock of . U, duck ad 
three tame «oa<A. ' " 

^^C'"' ^"''T"'" '"-^'-""'t "e fished for ,r„,„ I 

afternoon was lovely, and we spenf it In a" ind of 
^7. K :r".r""" "'""'^-^-es nfe on Llr n , 

"" rdes, opera-glasses, telescopes-firt-solash ■ ,H 
right! nobody hurt; seal looks up again , o v, 
>er of sea-birds to starboard ; fire a'ga > 4 .5 ^wh le" 
.e appears disappears, .urns t,p ''again \o\ n'eaH^ aj 

^::;,o?p-;;--.-;-o:.-a„di 

tame partridge; fetch water for her cTt^h^ief , 

.t^-^rtrrii^^roh-'-r-""- 

ti.eir box u side d I ' _„?\tv"::r':' "'"™ 

"Shake .he,n,"..p„, i„ your hand'^. T etc .' ."';'■ 
cost, ,n sight ■■ ; every one rushes ,0 loSk it , A f 
ow str p of land, where we are g,ad ,0 te"h ere t , ,t 

J • ivim.ei. 0.50 : A shower. 7.?o • A hpintif,,! 
set -7 ir^ • A\'„ . /-J"- rt ueaiituul sun- 

be Clin, « ?: ? ^'""■'^'' """ '" ''-"^ ''-^'S i' will 

^/-^</.J', aw. ., new page in our Canadian history 



^ 

^ 



err. VII 



jL'LY 1873 



GASPE. 



93 



— (iaspc. This morning I came on deck, and found 
that we were steaming ujia lovely lough into a splindid 
harbor. A sunny landscape: hills, and white houses, 
and red roofs dotted about ; sufficient houses to make 
it very gay, and not enough to make a town of it. 
"Such z place for .l sailing-boat," I), thinks, and is de- 
lighted with it. 

A gentlenian comes on board, and we make arrange- 
ments for the morrow. We get our mail, and write our 
leUers. 

In the afternoon a dej^utation appears, and reads an 
adilress, to which His E.\. replies in " suitable terms." 
The deputation consists of the Mayor, the Custom 
House Officers, the Doctor, and other local dignitaries. 
They ask if we will have a drive, and promise to have 
carriages ready for us when we like. So at four o'clock 
we go ashore. On the landing-place we are met by 
our friends, a:id I find that Oaspe driving is all to be 
done ti'te-h-tctc. The Mayor takes His Ex. in a gig, I 
follow with a millowner in the next. Number Three 
contains the Colonel and Mr. Eden (of whom more here- 
after) ; Number Four, Lady Harriet and the Doctor ; Fred 
closes the procession with — I don't know who ; but he 
must have been the fifth in order of precedence at 
(iaspe. It was amusing, starting off in this way, and 
we took a pretty drive for nearly two hours, and made 
ourselves as agreeable as possible to our several com- 
panions. It was rather fun, in the evening, comparing 
Lotes as to the various items of news, and the different 
v, zillions we had gleaned from our drivers. One con- 
sidered Gaspe the rising^ place in the universe, another 
viewed it gloomily, etc. 

Mr. Kidd and Mr. Campbell (belonging to the Gov- 
ernor-Oeneral's office) dined with us, and we saw some 
fireworks and a bonfire in our honor on shore. 



^^ 



94 



My CAXADIA.V JOURNAL. 



< n. vu 



//V,/..,>,/,,,.,^//,_A very^Mcat day. Up ,,1 siv ,„.. 

J,^'> ashore: Imts and \va'^^:,^^ arc ,nck.-r ..„ 
.,,>,! 1 . ^ i''iLk.c(l into canot's 

■HHl «o ,|ow„ ,|K. bay.wlulc uc drive t„ „KTt tlu... 
Uearc,nour«„.sa,an,; but ours ,s a double one 1 

wcaredrn-enbytlu.Mr.Kdenc.fwl,on.Ispok X: 

■s the., oldest ududmant/- a Custom] louse oft, ■ 
an 1 a n,„,, ,^,„„^^ ^,^,.^,^_^ He assures us we saU 

- U:hhfy salmon, and veus everytlun, ,n the ..u^,- 
'/'■ rosiest b,,t. U-c do have a most lovely dnve T 

-untry.sl,kethcH,,hlands,andweseew,ldh,lls , 
;;ne su e. an.) (Jaspe Ray on the other. The r a, 

tin-ou«h trees, and ,t would l.c unpossible anyul L t 
M-c a more beautiful ..unury. The dav is vev fn • w 
^";- very fast, and ,t is most pleasant." In . , ', 

'^ '-'f we meet the canoes .H. the I )artmouthK, V 
-become most pu:turescp.e! Ima.n.e s.x biM -In k 

-'-HM^rocession; in each two nu.n stand ^r^^^^^ 
"' ' 1""R poles m the.r hands, wlule tw<. pa.ssen ,1": i\' 
'" ... center of the boat. U'e have three hour^' o m. ' 

"■ »"rk, a„,,y, l,„il.ls l,i„,sdf .-, nro,,l„„.. U^ 1 " 

".r U.I,;,vcs„Mp ,„„l nsl,,a,Kl ,.„/„>.. ami ,„„i,l ! 

;:::;f '"■■".■■■■""« >--•.■• "v„av.', ' '•; 

" "^'. lif Knilkmni vvl,i|, i|„. |,„„l, a,ul , „, I, 
" ■ '^'^'=U"'tvM;urtains have been put up, 




< II. vn 



'H.- 



The 




'J 
< 

r. 











s 



JULY 1873 



THE DARTMOUTH KIVIiR. 



95 



but as I endeavor to crawl iiiulcr them the whole erec- 
tion tumbles down, and it is some time before I am 
safe inside. 

Thursday, /oZ/i.—Wc are all up early, and breakfast 
at five, jfet into our canoes, and proceed lii).;her up the 
river. The pools we reach to-day are very lovely, and 
we have a very pleasant day at them. I catch a number 
of trout, so do I'red and Lady Harriet; and Fred ^ot a 
salmon—the only one. We stop|)ed fishinj^^ at eleven; 
the men made a bower of branches ami birch-bark, and 
we sat and read and ate until four, when we fished a^Min. 
The last pool was .so pretty— or, rather, fine. 'I'here 
wtrv, jrreat cliffs on either side, anil in front a waterfall 
with a wail of rock and tries behind it, the further 
course of the river being ijuite hiikkii from view. At 
ciKdit o'clock we left, and i)a(l(lled down to our camj), 
passini; throui,di some great rapids. The worst are 
called the " Lady's Steps." Tea and bed followed. 

Friday, nth. — Again wi' breakfast at five, and begin 
our return journey in exactly the .same way as we came. 
Finding an invitation from an .American gentleman to 
go up his river, the St. John, and to stay with him, we 
accept; so we go on board the Dniid, wash and dress 
better than is possible in a tent, ami in two iiours begin 
a new adventure. 

We drive for half an hour, cro,ss a stream in a Iioat, 
walk a little way, and then meet si.\ saddle-horses. 
These we mount, and ride for three hours through the 
forest; five miles of the way being through a burned 
wood. The tall, charred trunks are all that remain of 
the old forest, but a beautiful fresh underwood has 
grown up everywhere. This ride brings us to Mr. Cur- 
tis's "shanty " on the St. John. 

I conUI nf)t get on witli iiim at fir?;!. !)ut ! wH-ii {:\\\\\d, 
that he was very nice, and that it was only preoccupa- 



96 



AfV CANADIAN JOUK'KAl.. 



CII. VII 



tioM that was the matter witli 1 



liin— ami no wonder, for 



Course, has 



It seems that we ouylit to have l)r..iijri,t l,lankets with 

us, and the poor man is in despair, as he, of 

a very limited supply in the backwoods. \\ 

we like doin;^r without blankets, and he is ha 

was time for a little fishing, ami i'red cauul 

I"idy Harriet and I si 



e swear that 
Pl"y. 'I'here 
U'lt a salmon. 



iM-ed, side l)y side in the I 
dinin^r.ro,„„, partly covered m witl 
umler which we dine. 



cep m a tent; I)., the Colonel, and 



louse. Off tlu'ir brdri 



Mim 



1 mosquito-curtains, 



Thesand-llies are dreadful lure, but 



them with smoky fires (called "smiu' 



we try to defy 



Aft 
wood 



j4es ") and curtains. 



er dinner we sit out of doors before a pile of bl 



izinij: 



\'<>u remember that I t(jld you that 



ant of ours was drowned at the M 



a poor man-serv- 
iuj,Mn. As we knew 



c were unable to co 



mmuni- 



nothinjr about his people, w 

(■ate the news of his death to them, so 1). ordered any 
letters that mi^ht arrive for him to l)e brouj^riu to him- 
self. The first of these— which we I 



was from a servant-jjfirl he 



lave just received- 



was attached to at Ott 



iwa. 



:iiui was dated exactly seven days after the dav ol th. 
JKTident. In it she said, " I have !)een in mv new place 
a week, and I like it very much, but I had such a dread- 
ful dream on the day of my arrival. I dreamed that you 

Jftther, and that No- 
te spot 
111 uninhabited rej^ion 
miles distant 
IS or posts, it was 
e news of her 



and Nowell were upset in a boat toj,a-th 

well was saved, but you were drowned." As ll 

where the accident occurred is in 



on the coast of Labrador, more than 500 
from Ottawa, without either tcleKiapl 
impossible that she should have had th 
lover's death when this letter was written 



Satuiihiy, /.V/;.-After breakfast tl 



into canoes, and were four hour 



lis morninjj we jrot 



liu 



s K"iiiK' lip the river 



wever, we siopi)ecl five times on our way tu fish, and 



CIl. VII 

iiidcr, f(ir 
kcls witli 
iiirsc, lias 
wear that 
y. 'I'hcTc 
I salmon, 
loiicl, and 
room '. a 
-ciiitains, 

y to defy 
curtains, 
f blazing 

lan-scrv- 
rtt' knew 
ommiini- 
cred any 
t to liim- 
(fivcd — 

Ottawa, 
y (»1 the 
.'w plaju 
a dii'ad- 
lliat you 
hat No- 
he spot 
1 rej^'ion 

distant 
S it was 
> of her 

: Wf got 

L' river; 
ish, and 



JILV 1873 



/'J:A'CE. 



97 



so the time di.l not appoar lon^;. We onlv rau,i,dit trout 
thus far; hut we have reached " Keliv's I'.,ol." and are 
told that here salmon will surely come. I). , atches one 
(nS lbs.) almost immediately. Mr. Curiis hooks one for 
me, and hands me the rod, but in so doinjr off it eomes ; 
then he hooks am)ther, ( take the md a-ain, and <-njoy 
myself immensely while I play the fi.h. 1 landed him', 
and ffreat was my joy and pride. Colonel Fletcher and' 
Lady Harriet each play one. but she loses hers. Then 
we were carried swiftly down the rapids home. Dinner 
-fireside-bed! Alas! be.I is not the end. There was 
frost to-ni-ht. and the limited snpplv of blankets was 
terrd)le. I woke at one, very cold, «:ot up, and dressed 
in all my clothes, and lay down ajjain ; but not to sleep 
I shivered till four, ami at this early hour on Sunday 
morning nii.i,dit have been found sittinK' at a ^^reat wood 
fire 'Hit of doors: a tent on my ri.i,dit. where sleeps my 
friend; behind me a wooden house, where sleep my bus- 
band, brother, and the Colonel; t,, the left a .secti.m of 
a tent, jutting out of which may be seen the feet of 
sleeping men; one-who is awake-attends to mv fire- 
a dog lies by, the river rolls along in the backgn.und! 
In this f.icture I may be represented reading a novel • 
the primeval forest extends itsell on every side ui nie' 
Tiic rest of the world got up to breakfast at seven, and 
we rcHJe and drove home to our ship .again. Mr Curtis 
"of Moston" was most kind to us ar^I very pleas.int, 

Momun, /^///._We starteil in the night, and found 
ourselves next morning off I'erc.:.. The view from our 
ship is (pute lovely. There is the great, precipitous ro, k 
standing out by itself, with a natural arch through it, 
which gives the name to the place; then, on the main- 
land, the red cliffs rise up above the sea, crowned with, 
green shrubs, and the plateau (mi which fiie little town 
IS built slopes down tu the, water, and ends in anotiier 



" ' 



98 



A/V CAXADIAX JOUKXAL. 



CIt. VII 



\\ 



1] 



fi:' 



{i;rorit rliff. The sun shines, and everything is (lclij,ditfiil, 
("oloncl Flelciier and D. botli made skcltlies; when they 
had finished we steamed round the ruck, and got into a 
boat to row ashore. 

A salute was fired (by the blacksmith), and all the 
fishint;; population of I'erce, headed by tiieir Mayor, 
Manager, and the SheriU", met us, and uf course read au 
atldress. 

I'erce i . a most important fishing-station. It is prin- 
cipallv owned by Jersey people who have never been to 
it, and their rejjresentative here is Mr. Orange. In addi- 
tion to its beautiful scenery it has the merit of spotless 
puritv (in spile of a strong smell of lisb ])ervading the 
atinospiiere). The houses and stores are all of the fresh- 
est while, with red window-saslies and doors ; the streets 
are of gravel. \N'hen His lv\. had replied to the aildress, 
we went through the places where the fish is salted, 
dried, etc. 

The operation is as follows : On a table on the beach 
the cod is beheaded, cut open, and spread Hat. He is 
then brouglil into a large, scpiare room, laid upon the 
door, and sailed; above him, below him, and around 
him, are his fellow-coils. After remaining in this retreat 
for three or four days, he is imt into a great tub and 
■washed. From this he gets into a barrow, and is wheeled 
out of doors to a long bed of dried fir-boughs, upon 
which he n'|)oscs with his neighbors and gets dried. He 
ought to lie there for six days, and the I'erce fishermen 
have to watch the clouds all that time, and rush to lift 
Iiim into a shed should it threaten to rain. A shower 
would spoil him. From this free-and-easy stage he la 
removed, and stacked on the gravel, and covered over 
with birch-iiark and heavy stones; this is his final trial, 
and he is now fit to fulfill the object of his existence, and 
tu be eaten. 



if 



cii. vir 



JlI.Y 1873 



DALllOUSIE. 



99 



I he stacks are really works of art-thov are so neat 
and trim. We also inspoctfd the stores and shops u{ tin- 
town. We were told there was a splenditi view from the 
top ot a mountain or lii^rh cliff above tht- town, and we 
started to drive there. I only j,^ot to the bottom of the 
worst chml, in the jrik' with the Mayor and Mayoress 
but the j;entlemen went to the top. In the afternoon 
we continued our journey up the I!ay of Chaleur to 
Paspediac, off which little town we anchored at ten 
o'clock. 

ruesday, /^t;,.— \), went asliore at 7 a. m. to look at 
this place, and fo.uui a sleepy .\;rent, wiio could not rise 
to the magnitude of the occasion, or comprehend that it 
was the Ciovernor-General who represented the "early 
bird." 

I'aspediac is another part of the Jersey fishin^^-busi- 
ness. Here ships are built, and in them the dried cod 
is sent off to its various destinations. 

We were detained an hour by our engine, which had 
Rot out of order, and so did not reach Dalhousie till 
five o'clock. The scenery towards the end of the l!ay 
was lovely, and the .surroundings of this villa.t,re reminded 
us of Scotland. We had not seen such high hills for a 
long time. 

The courageous people of Dalhousie fired off some 
old guns which had been found at the bottom (.f the 
river, and it is a mercy no accident occurred. 

The principal inhabitants met us on the wharf, hut 
His E.v's hand was. first shaken by a bhu k man, who 
appears to be a pet jester of the neighlu.rhood. Later, 
this gentleman perceived he had forgotten me, and 
made a dive through the crowd to shake hands with 
me. My gravity was rather upset by this une.vpected 
Weh'ome. 

We walked to the Court House, and had an address 



W' 




lOO 



AfV CAXADIAA' JOURNAL. 



^n. VII 



presented ; then I), took a drive, and I went up to the 
house of a senator — Mr. Hamilton. We got on board 
aj(ain in time for dinner, and continued our journey in 
the ni;^lit. 

Wcdnrsthiy, i6th. — We have had a roujj;h twenty-four 
hours, and could not enjoy the deck until we were some 
way up the Miramichi river. The country round here is 
flat and uninterestinjr. We reached Chatham in the 
afternoon, but a sad accident occurred in firing the 
salute. 

An address was read, and lunch prepared at the house 
of the Member, Mr. Muirhead, to which we had to pass 
uniler an arch specially erected in our honor. We re- 
turned in the evening to attend a concert given by the 
convent-school. 

T/tursJav, i///i.~\Ve invited Mr., Mrs., and Miss 
Muirhead, and two other gentlemen, to breakfast on 
board, and to go with us to Newcastle, a town a short 
way from C^hatham. 

There was an address, and a drive to a new bridge 
which is being built over the river, and then we set sail 
—or, rather, "got under steam "—on our way to Prince 
Edward's Island, where I hope to receive letters. 



en. VII 






CHAPTER Vlir. 

THE MARITIME I'RO VIN'CES, 

_ FnWay, July /cf///._This nicnnns we f.unid ourselves 
|n sight of Prince Edward's Island; and very pretty it 
looked in the sunshine. The cliffs are low, but tiiey 
show a red line above the water, crowned with green 
and the whole country is much more cultivated and 
m(,re park-like than anything we have as yet seen in 
Canada. 

We anchored at ten, and got some letters from Ta- 
dousac, with good accounts of the children ; and at 
twelve we landed at Charlotte Town. 

There was a crowd, and a very pretty arch, one of 
the mottoes on it being " Long courted, won at last " 
Ml allusion to the island having just joined the Do- 
minion. 

We are staying at Government House with Mr * and 
Mrs. Robinson. They took us a drive through red lanes 
farms, trees, and ferns-country sights which are quite 
delightful to us, who of late have only seen forest 
scenery. 

_ S\Uurday, r^//r-We walked through the town, and 
tn the afternoon had a reception, and in the evening a 
dinner-party. ^ 

Mo.Juy, 2rsr-ln the morning we started to take the 
first trip on the finst railway made in the island. About 



■ Sir William Robinson, Governor of Trinida.I, i8qi. 



I 



illl 



i ■' - } 



102 



Afy CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. VIII 



thirty pc()])le came with us, and at a distant station we 
wore met l)y carriajres, in which we drove to the sea- 
shore, wiiere we had lunch. Then we returned home by 
the same route, and had a little rest before we dressed 
for a ball at (iovernnient House. 

Tiu-Si/ay, 22d.~\\Ki drove out with Mr. and Afrs. Rob- 
inson to do some shoppinjr, to look at a fine view of the 
town, and to be i)hotographed under the triumphal arch. 
Then we went off to the DruiJ, and H. M. S. Spartan 
manned yards as we passed. There was a regatta in the 
harbor, for which 1). had given prizes, and we had in- 
vited forty people to lunch with us on board and to see 
the races from our ship. We had a very pleasant after- 
noon, and as soon as the sports were over we went 
ashore to give away the prizes. The day was a i)erfect 
summer day. 

We dined quietly at Government House, and dressed 
for the ball after dinner. This ball was part of the 
reception which the local Parliament had resolved to 
give the Ciovernor-deneral. 

It was in the Parliament Buildings, and the Senate 
Chamber was beautifully arranged for it. From the 
ceiling hung a thing like a chandelier, made of roses 
and moss, which spread out into single ropes of flowers, 
attached to the gallery all round the room, forming a 
light canopy of flowers above us ; then there were flags 
and wreaths on the walls; so that nothing could have 
been prettier. Besides a dressing-room, a little resting- 
place was provided for me, in which there was a large 
supply of refreshment ! 

The supper-room was decorated with green, and with 
a large painting of D.'s arms, surrounded by all the 
Canadian flags, that of Newfoundland being still rolled 
up (it has not joined the ITnion). 'J"he sujiper was a .sort of 
picnic, being sent by dillerent people, and was very good. 






I 



ft !, 



CJI. VIII 



Ji i.v 1873 



PICTOU COAL-MINES. 



103 



I 



A pretty girl with whom Fred danced said tn him: 
" I noticed tliat you danced with all the phiincst ^'iris 
and tiie worst dancers, at Government Honse on Mon- 
day, and I said to myself, ' Well, really, I don't think 
.\[r. Hamilton is such a swell that he need dance with all 
the i)lain jjirls and the bad dancers,' " — alludinj,^ of 
course, to the (lovernor-deneral's partners hem;; chosen 
for him. Fred immediately asked her for a second 
waltz. When we left Me were accompanied by a forch- 
lij^jht procession to the pier; there we j;ot into our b-at, 
and went on board the DniiJ. All the lailies, in th. ir 
ball-dre..ses, came out on the balcony of the hcnise tcj .see 
us off; and the arches were illuminated. 

Thursday, 24th.— \w the morninL,^ we rea<he(l I'ictou. 
I must mention here that the climate of I'rince VA- 
ward's Island was very much more like Kn},dand than 
that of our part of Canada, and both Lady Harriet and 
I felt the change. She got hay-fever and asthma, and 
is in bed, and I have a cold ; however, I did not like to 
miss .seeing the coal-mines of the Dominion, so I went 
with D. to insi)ect them. I saw all the above-ground 
part: the .■ngines, the ventilators, etc. The principal 
ventilr.tor is called the" Lady Dufferni," and there are 
two engines which go by the name of the " Lord Duf- 
ferin " and the " Lady Victoria " I), went down the 
mine with Fred and Colonel Fletcher. The shaft was 
1,000 feet, and it took them just fifty-four seconds to 
get to the bottom in a lift, 'i'hey stayed down there an 
hour and a half, while F talked to the managers at the top. 
We got back to the Druid in time for dinner. All 
night there was a fearful noise gt»ing on — "coaling," 
just over our heads. 

Friday, ;?j-///.— Sailing through the Cut of Canso, 
with the land close to us on each side, on our wav to 
Louisburg. where wc anchor in the morning. 



iiJ 



104 



A/r CAA'.iP/AX JOURXAL. 



cii. viir 



Satut\ia\\ 2<^///.— There is a foj-; outside the harl) 



or, so 



we are cauj^ht here, but have had 



1 h)()ketl ill a book of 



;i most pleasant day. 



that Loiiisburjf, in addition to its hist 
town with broad streets and st 



universal knowlcdj;e, and read 



ality, a small villajje, 



isti 



orical mterest, is a 



one houses; it is, in re- 
)f a fe\ 



attered wooden 

cottages. We landed at one of these, borrowed two 

• gigs, and set off to drive twenty-five miles to the capital 

of Cape Ureton, Sydney by name. 1). drove me, and 

Fred the Colonel; Lady Harriet remained on board. 

We drove through i>retty woods, occasionally getting 
a glimjjse of one of the several arms of the sea which cut 
Cape Breton in so many places, sat i)y the roadside to 
lunch, and reached Sydney in the afternoon. 

It is situated on a l)eautiful harbor, and we found 
several large steamers there; the biggest was the 7//'- 
bania, which has just been laying the Atlantic cable, in 
comi^any with the Gifat Eastern. We went on board 
her, and saw the machinery, and the tanks which held 
the cable. We had asked to see the mayor of the town, 
and when a gentleman jumped out of a carriage and ac- 
costed us, we took it for granted that this was he, and 
accepted his offer of a pair of fresh horses and a cup of 
tea. We went to his very pretty house, where his Eng- 
lish wife received us graciously ; and then D. heard that 
a deputation was waiting for him at the hotel. There 
he found tiie real Simon Pure, and sjjcnt an extra hour 
with him and the other magnates of the place; so that 
we left very late, and had a dark drive back through the 
woods. 

The weather was cpiite lovely, and the trip extremely 
pleasant. At four o'clock we bought a Sydney paper, in 
wiiich we fountl our arrival announced. Very sharp of 
the Sydney Press. 

Lcuisburs : Sunday, 2yih.-~\\ii arc detained here by 



I 






cii. viir 



JULY 1873 



HALIFAX, XOVA SCOTIA. 



105 



i 



the fog. After church we went to look at the old forts; 
there are scarcely any stone remains, t)ut Colonel Fletch- 
er's military eye easily discovered the form and plan of 
the fortifications in the grass. 

Monday, ^<5V//,— We started this morning, and got on 
a good way before the fog came down upon us again. 
Fog — rain — Atlantic swell ! 

Tuesday, 2j;///.— Still very foggy. We luid great 
doubts as to whether we should get into Halifax at all, 
and stories of ships being kept out for three weeks were 
rife. However, with great care, we poked our nose in 
just at the right place, and at two o'clock appeared in 
the harbor, to everybody's astonishment. 

It was so wet we did not go ashore, and put off our 
landing till ne.\t morning. The Lieutenant-Governor 
and Mrs. Archibald came to see us, and arrangements for 
endless gayeties were made. 

Wednesday, jot/i.~At twelve o'clock we landed, on a 
slab of marble which commemorates the arrival of the 
Prince of Wales on the same day, thirteen years ago. 

The weather was most dull and muggy, and gave a 
certain melancholy to the ceremonial of address reading. 
Fred and the Colonel had been e.xulting all the way upon 
again seeing "real soldiers," after all the Volunteers that 
have welcomed us in other places; but I have been pro- 
vided with a fund of chaff against them by the non- 
arrival of the "real" guard of honor, who made some 
mistake, and turned up an hour later at the Government 
House, instead of at the wharf. 

I received Admiral Fanshawe, his wife and daughter 
and son, in the afternoon, and when the day cleared up 
and the sun shone we saw that we were anchored in a 
very cheerful i)lace close to the town. Dartmouth, which 
is almost a part of Halifax, is on one side of us, and 
woods and villas and large institutions are dotted round 



I 'II i 



u 



io6 



A/y CAXAD/AX JOURNAL. 



cu. vm 



the Hay, wliilc at t!ic mouth of the harbor is a small forti- 
fied island, ■riicre is one man-of-war here, and we have 
just missed the Flying S(iuadron. 

'I'liere is a ciuestion as to whether Parliament should 
be proro^nied on Aufriist i^lh or not, and the papers are 
advising; the (lovernor-Creneral, and abusinjf him in ad- 
vance, if he does not follow each of their different coun- 
sels. 

Thursday, j/jA— Lady Harriet and I went a drive 
with Mrs. Kanshawe, and saw the North-west Arm and 
Bedford Basin, and enjoyed the country drive; the 
Meather was lovely. 

In the evening we held a Drawing-room at Govern- 
ment liouse, and had the pleasure of "full-dressing " in 
our cabins. We got ashore in safety, and had a very 
successful gathering. Every one said, " We did not know 
there were so many i)eople in Halifax." (;oing !)ack to 
the ship, we found ourselves in a fog, and my feathers 
and tulle were much the worse for it. Dent says, with 
indignation, " iOvery day in this yac ht takes pounds and 
pounds off the value of your clothes." 

Friday, August ist.—'^V\% was the day of the Regatta, 
and, had it been fine, it would have been a very pretty 
sight; but as there were fog and rain, little except the 
lunch took place. 

Wc had a great dinner at the Lieutenant-Governor's, 
which was long but pleasant. One of my neighl)ors 
was the R. G. Archbishop of Halifax, a clever, amusing 
Irishman. 'I'he dinner had rather a funny finale. Mr. 
Archibalil proposed the <,)ueen's healtli. and we all stood 
"|) to drink it; the band played the Nalion.d Air, and at 
the end of the usual eight bars we all prepared to sit 
down. But no ; the band went on— a slight smile passed 
down the table; eight bars more— the band strikes up 
aniiiher verse ; until at last, alter several of these un- 



14 r 



i I :< 
1 i i\ 



CU. VIII 



Aik;. 1873 PA'/XCE LOUIS OF HATTENBF.RG. 



107 



I 

I 



exi>ectcd l)i-;rinnings, the whole of the solemn and 
stately party broke out into a hearty laiij^h. 

There was an evening party after dinner, and I), 
and I walked about and talked to all the strangers tdl 
11.30 o'clock, when we retiirneil to our ship, 

Saturday, Ji/.— Harly tiiis morning we went to visit 
the fortifications, and saw three different sets of forts. 
We returned to the Druid at two, and had the Local 
Government to lunch. 'Ihey are in oj)position to the 
Dominion Tarliament, and their papers were rather dis- 
agreeable about our visit here; but 1 am happy to say 
they have set aside all political differences for the mo- 
ment, and really seem as if they could not do enough 
for us. The result is, that ne.xt week we have four balls, 
three monster picnics, three dinners, a concert, a cricket- 
match, and a review. Is it not fearfully kind ? " What 
shall I wear?" is a question I must debate seriously 
every day. 

We dined to-night at Admiralty Mouse with Admiral 
and Mrs. Fanshawe, where we met the same people as 
last night and a few sailors. One guest, a niidshii)ma!i, 
was Prince Louis of Hattenberg. 

Sunday, ^7</. -We were to go to the Knglish Catliedral 
to-day, but our coachman, after drivmg us to the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral, proceeded to another church, at 
which we remained, and only discovered afterwards that 
it was the wrong one. It was a lovely afternoon, and 
we sat (.11 deck till bedtime. 

Monday, 4t/i.—\ (.\i\y of Herculean labors! At 8.30 
A. M. I), went to breakfast with Admiral Fanshawe, to 
see his beautiful drawings. At ten we rowed dctwn to 
the Dockyard to meet him. and all went on board the 
Hoya/ Alfred. She and the Spartan manned yards as 
we approached, and then wc got on board and went 
Into every hole and corner of the ship. We had finished 



t' I ' 1 



108 



Afy CANADIAX JOUKXA/.. 



cii. vm 



the inspection about 12.30, when \vc returned to the 
J)mi(/, and prepared to receive a party at luncheon, in- 
cluding the Lieuteiiant-dovernor and the Admiral. No 
sooner had we finished this meal than we started for a 
picnic given by the Irish lienevolent Society. I), anil I 
sailed to it in our own little boat. The rendezvous was 
at .McNab's Island, and we were received on laniling by 
gentlemen wraring green sashes. The President armed 
ine up the hill by way of helpnig me. He, of c<n>rse, 
impeded njy progress consideral)ly, and when he stumbled 
and nearly fell, told me that it was "the blind leading 
the blind." There was a lovely view from the door of 
the large picnic shed ; but we had to go in at once, and 
dance a (juadrille. At five we had a "cold collation" 
and many toasts. The old Archbishoji was rather 
amusnig. When the chairman, who proposed his health, 
said he hail known hin» for " forty years," he groaned 
aloud, which made us all laugh. We returned to the 
y>///(/ at seven o'clock, and having re-dressed and re- 
dined, we left her again at eight, to attend a promenade 
concert in Ilortiiiiltural C.ardens. We did not "prome- 
nade " a . all, but sat on the center one of three stages, 
a bright gaslight thrown full upon us, and an immense 
crowd looking on. On one side was the band of the 
f)oth Killes, and on the other that of the 87th. They 
played in turns, ami we remained till the end of the 
performance. To-day, at any rate, we have earned a 
night's repose. 

Tufstiiiy, y//.— T.ady Harriet and . went a little shop- 
ping expedition this morning. At one shop I saw a poor 
woman who liail come 250 miles to ask me to get her 
husband (mU of prison. 1 fear she did not believe that 
I really had not the power to do so. 

\Vj- vverf given a picnic to-day by the 87th Regiment, 
P. and I sailed down to the Island about five o'clock. 



1 M! 



en. viu 

•d to the 
chcoii, in- 
iiral. No 
ted for a 

1). ami I 
:v()iis was 
uulinij by 
•lit armed 
)f course, 
stumbled 
il leatlin); 
e door of 
oiue, and 
ollation " 
as rather 
lis health, 
: |froaneil 
ed to tl>e 
J and re- 
romeiiaile 

" prome- 
;e stajfes, 

immense 
md t)f the 
h. They 
ul of the 

carr.od a 

ttlc shop- 
aw a poor 
to jjet her 
licve that 

Reirlmcnt, 
c o'clock. 



AUC. 1873 



y.oA'n l>l'/v/:a'/X's sPEEcir. 



109 



There was a ^reat number of people, and it was very 
pretty and anuisin>f. 

\\ hen it was (juite dark, we went out lobster-spearinj^. 
We had two boats, and two j;reat torches in each, and 
we stood up— with poles forked at one end in our hands 
— and watched the bottom for lobsters. Presently we 
saw one crawlin^r aion^r; i nj-uie a ^rab at himj but 
missed. Then came a second ; this time 1 was more 
careful, and aimed my weajion slowly at him, puttui},^ the 
fork rijrht over his back, and then liftni>r him. kickin;;, 
into the boat. It was very e.xcitin^. We were only able 
to stay a very short time, but we "grabbed " at five and 
broujrht home three. 

UWnesJay, 6t/t.—\ luncheon party on board, which 
went off very well. Then a visit to a ^rreat lunatic asy- 
lum— a beautiful one, .so vray and clean and (|uiet. Al- 
most all the patients were out in the grounds, the band 
playing, and everything and everybody happy and peace- 
ful. It seems to be admirably managed, and the view 
fr;.n the building is splendid. I), dined with the Arch- 
bishop, and I.ady Harriet and I with Mrs. Kanshawe. 
She had the rrince-Midshipman and .some other .sailors 
to meet us. 

T/iufs,/,fv,;/A.—\\ii had another great lunch on board, 
which went off very well, in spite of the weather being 
rather wet ;ind cold. 

In the evening 1). dined at the Club, and made a 
speech upon the absolute impartiality (.f the (lovermjr- 
(leneral in party matters (there is great strife going on 
now), which was e.vtremely well received. He ended by 
saying: " As a reasonable being the (lovernor-deneral 
can not help having convictions upon the merits of dif- 
ferent policies. Hut these considerations are abstract, 
?perij!ativ€, devoid of practical effect on hi^ official rela- 
tions. As the iiead of a Constitutional Slate, as engaged 




m 



no 



A/y CAS'ADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. VIII 



in llic ailmiiiistration of Parliamentary (lovernment, he 
has no political friends, still less need he have political 
enemies; the possession of either — nay, even to be sus- 
pected of possessinj; either — destroys his usefulness, 
yometimes, of course, no matter how disconnected iiis 
personality may be from what is taking' place, his name 
will K<-''^ drajij^ei'. into some controversy, and he may Sud- 
denly lir.d himself the subject of criticism in the press 
of whatever party may for the moment be out of humor ; 
but under these circumstances he must console himself 
with the reflection that these spasmodic castiyations are 
as transitory and innocuous as the disiii)Iine ai)plied 
occasionally to their idol by the unsophisticated wor- 
shipeis of Mumbo Jumbo when their harvests are short 
or a murrain visits their flocks." D. met me afterwards 
at a bad at the Cleneral's, where he had tt) ilance every- 
thinj; t'l! two o'clock. 

/>/ ./,, ,!»'///. — We had a larjje lunch on board, ami 
after i^ went to a review of the garrison and Volunteers 
on the common, and, as the afternoon was lovely, it was 
a very line sight — red coats, brilliant staff, His K.\cel- 
lency and Kred riiling about, cocked hats, rilles, l)aiids, 
artilleiy. engineers, a sham fight, a large number of spec- 
tators, etc. 

To-night we had a really beautiful ball, given by the 
Legislative Council, in the I'arliament lUiildings. The 
ball-room is very lofty, has handsome cornices, aiul sev- 
eral full-length oil porr. aits hanging in it. Tiic whole 
of the walls were covered with white calico, striped with 
bands of pink ; over the dot)rs and window were " l),s," 
surroundeil bv pink-and- white Hags; tlie tuirtains and 
all tile wiiulows were pink-and-white tarlatan, and it 
was all very briglu and finished-looking. The supper- 
room was hung witli real Hags, and the cntrance-luill 
was converted into a grotto of ferns. There was plenty 



CH. VIII 

nmcnt, he 
e political 
to be siis- 
iscfuliifss. 
lected his 

his name 
.• may sud- 
I the press 
;)f humor ; 
)le himself 
;ations are 
le ai)plied 
ated wor- 

are short 
ifterwards 
lue every- 

)()ard, and 
/olunte'TS 
cly, it was 
iis Kxcel- 
les, bands, 
er of spec- 
imen by the 
n^^- 'IHe 
■1, and scv- 
Ihe whole 
riped with 
ere " D.s," 
rtains and 
an, and it 
he snpper- 
:rance-hall 
was plenty 



AUG. 1873 riCXIC AT McNAB'S ISLAND. ,„ 

of -MX in the (lancinji-room, and a very ^ood band, and 
we really enjoyed it very mnch (you know there are 
occasionally entertainments which are more duty than 
pleasure). 

SiUunhy, j^M.—The political difficulties to which [ 
have alluded call I), back to Ottawa, and he has had a 
very busy morninij, writing farewell letters, and making 
arrangements for the long journey, which he begins to- 
night. If he had gone by rail it would have taken him 
at least seventy hours; but he luckily catches an Kng- 
lish mail steamer on its way to (Quebec, which will take 
him part of the way. and will leave him within twenty- 
four hours' journey of Ottawa. 

In the afternoon we went to a mf.nster picnic given 
to us by the citizens. The day was lovely, and we sailed 
down to McNab's Island in our boat. The Mayor, who 
received us. led us to the large shed, of which I have al- 
ready told you, where all the peoi)le were waiting for us. 
We danced a (piadnlle. and were a|)plau<led after it, and 
then a few round dances. .After dinner I), made a s|)cech, 
in which he "confided me to the care of the people of 
Halifax during his absence," and very .soon after this 
we were conducted down f) the boats and returned to 
the Druid. 

At eight we went to Government House, and were 
met there by a torchlight i)rocessi()n, and by a grand 
fire-engine demonstration, the engines preceding us, and 
being brilliantly illuminated. Many of the houses also 
were lighted up, and there was an immense crowd in the 
town, which we drove slowly through, !)ack to (Jueen's 
Wharf, where a guard of honor was in waiting, and 
where I), said " good-by." The torches all remained 
at the pier till we had reached the IhuU ; it was a beau- 
tiful sight. 

D. and Colonel Fletcher got on board the NatorUin 



1 




112 



M Y CA XA DIA N JO URN A L. 



CH. VIII 



at ten, and we watched them steaminft past us; both we 
and the y sent off some rockets. And now, here am I, 
Idone for a week, doing " (lovernor-General " at Hali- 

Monday, //M.— This was a very tiring day. In the 
morning I had a great many things to do for 1)., and m 
the afternoon I had Umcl. with the Archibalds, which 
lasted till after four; and at 6.30 had to be at the Gen- 
eral's* house for dinner. 

He was too ill to appear, and we were a small party 
of eight. After dinner we proceeded to the theatre, 
where we saw "Still Waters Run Deep" and "Under 
the Rose " acted by amateurs. There were some excel- 
lent actors, and I enjoyed it very much. I received 
three bouquets, which I carried together in an enor- 
mous bunch. The best performers were Major and 
Mrs. Hall, Captain and Mrs. Mitchell Innes, t'aptani 
Wallace of the 60th Rilles, and Mr. Poe, who is on the 
Ro\al Alfred. 

I went to supper at the Artillery Barracks, and I 
believe there was dancing afterwards, but, mercifully, I 
knew nothing of it, and left b'cfore there were any symp- 
toms of such an intention. I was so very tired. 

Tuesday, 12th.— ^\r. and Mrs. Robinson came on 
board to say " Good-by," and 1 had a lunch for four- 
teen people. My guests were two hanilsomc Toronto 
girls and two admirers of theirs, the Lieutenant-Gov- 
ernor and his family (five), and Captain and Mrs. O'Gra- 
dy Haly. He is the General's son and A. 1). C. 

It was a lovely afternoon, and after lunch we drove 
through the Horticultural Gardens to a cricket-match— 
the 60th Rifles against the Garrison. 

Then we dined with Admiral and Mrs. Fanshawe, 



♦ The lolc General Sir W. OT.mdy Hftly. 



CH. VIII 

, both we 
lerc am I, 
■ at Hali- 

. In the 

)., and in 

(Is, which 

the Gen- 

nall party 
e theatre, 
1 '* Under 
)me excel- 
[ received 

an enor- 
lajor and 
s, Captain 

is on the 

;ks, and I 
crcifuUy, I 
any symp- 
d. 

came on 
1 for four- 
le Toronto 
.•nant-(iov- 
^rs. O'Gra- 
C. 

h we drove 
et-match — 

Fanshawe, 



At'O. 1873 



/XDrS'/A-/,!/. HOMES. 



113 



and went with them to tlic hall on board the Roxal 41- 

JtCll. 

I did like this entertainment. The ship was close to 
the wharf. 1 he deck was d.vided at the mast into two 
part.s-supper-room and ball-room, and at nHdniLdn the 
part.t.on was taken down. The funnel was beautifully 
decorated w.th arms-swords, bayonets, etc.-and was 
surrounded by jets of ^as. The st.pper-tabies were ar- 
ranged between it and the mainmast, round which 
there was a rockery and fernery, in which water trickled 
and frogs disported themselves. The band sat upon a 
scaffolding round the mast. The whole was covered in 
with flags, and all the companions, compasses, wheels 
etc., etc were ornamented with plants. The poop made 
a .second ball-room, also covered, in the shape of a bell- 
tent, and I had a seat there, and a good view of the 
ball. I hose who preferred Nature could gaze out in 
the opposite direction upon the moonlit sea. I did not 
occu^py the chair-of-state much, but danced, and enjoyed 

U'cdncsJ.y^ jjth.-\ took a long rest this morning, 
and was ready .n the afternoon to visit some Protestan 
chanties. 

The first was an orphan-home, and the second a very 
interesting reformatory for boys. It is on a new prin- 
c.ple and seems to answer admirablv. All the inmates 
are, or were, criminals. There are no walls, or bolts or 
bars, and the br)ys arc even allowed to go into the town 
on honor. They promise to return, and do. 

I Mey all learn trades, a.ul do not leave the Home till 
hey are able to earn thrir bread. They choose one of 
four trades, and are allowed to change their minds onre 
We saw them hard at work, carpentering, shoemaknig," 
tadonng, and cabinet-making, the gmaller ones cutting 
"P firewood, and tying it in bundles. They also do 

Q 



i M 



i ! 



.1 V 




\ 






! 

i 
1 


r 

'i 







114 



Af Y CA NA DIA .V JO URNAL. 



CH. VIII 



gardening and farm-work, and have got small pieces of 
garden and pets of their own, and a band; school-work 
is done in the evening. The boys looked very happy, 
and the few who at different times have run away gen- 
erally return of their own accord. 

This evening a ball was given to us by the 60th 
Rines. It was a most successful one. The room looked 
like a very smart lady's boudoir, and was beautifully 
lighted with wax candles. I danced a great deal, and 
liked the entertainment extremely. We were not home 

till three. . , , 

Thursday, I4th.~\ had to leave Lady Harriet m bed 
with an asthmatic cold, while I delivered myself over to 
the Roman Catholic Archbishop. Fred and I visited 
his house and his Cathedral, and a convent, and went 
on to his country place, where he had 150 people at 
lunch to meet me. The lunch was out of doors, and 
was really very pleasant. There was a band, and little 
wooden platforms, on which we were sui^posed to dance! 
— -md did try to, but every one is worn out with past 
g'lveties I got back to the ship at five (having left it 
at 'twelve), and at nine I attended the Sergeants' Ball. 

The political excitement is fearful, and we hear that 
the Opposition is going to ask for the Governor-Gen- 
eral's recall ! ! So expect us home in disgrace. 

SiXturdax, i6tft.—\\c went to Dartmouth, and visited 
a rope manufactorv, and a skate manufactory, where I 
was presented with a grand box containing two lovely 
pairs of Acme skates, for 1). and me. We drove on 
seven miles, by a chain of lakes, till we came to an old- 
fashioned inn, where we had lunch. After this we went 
to a gold-mine, and saw all the process of extracting the 
precious metal, which 1 thought very interesting. This 
ended our sisrht-sceing. All day we went about in a 
procession of ten carriages. I gave a dinner to the 



CH. VIII 

lieces of 
lol-work 
; happy, 
ay gcn- 

the 6oth 
n looked 
autifuUy 
]eal, and 
ot home 

2t in bed 
f over to 
I visited 
md went 
people at 
oors, and 
and little 
to dance! 
with past 
ng left it 
ts' Ball, 
hear that 
rnor-den- 

nd visited 
;, where I 
wo lovely 
drove on 
to an old- 
s we went 
•acting the 
ing. This 
ibout in a 
ner to the 



AUG. 1873 ST. /O/AV, A-EIV BRUXSWICK. 



"5 



amateur actors on board the Druid, and afterwards 
went to see them do "Caste," which was very amus- 
ing. ■" 

Monday, iSth.~\\\ left our dear Druid early in tlie 
mornnig. and drove to the train, where the Lieutenant- 
(.overnor met us and escorted us for about six hours on 
our way. We passed through " Evangeline's" country 
to the Bay of Fundy, wliere we got into a crazv-looking 
steamer and sailed for St. John. Here th; Mavor 
Sherilt, etc., came to meet me, and there was a greU 
crowd on the landing. Never was I .so stared at as to- 
day. When D. is with me I feel that I am (miy part of 
the show; but alone, I have to bear it all At the sta 
turns people looked in at the windows, and gax.ed at \ne 
while 1 ate sandwiches (of all the things in the world ' ) • 
when we got to the hotel, a crowd outside eyed me and 
a crowd inside stared at me, and on the stairs Yankee 
visitors criticised me. « I guess - ; I went to my room for 
a ht le. and on my way t(, dinner I found them all still 
on the stairs, and they looked at me through the hinges 
of he door ; when I came up again there was a c.niple 
walking arm-m-arm in my room, and three ladies look- 
ing mto It; but I walked by them in so stately a man- 
ner that they .sent me wor,I they had only come to put 
some flowers there. Then the crowd outside would not 
go and I had to stand at the window, and be cheered 
and hear "(;od save the Queen" (to which I have no 
right whatsoever). 

^"'■^"'".''. /^///.-n. arrived here this morning. ITe 
left Ottawa on Friday, slept that night at Montreal, and 
Saturday night at some place in the White Mountains* 
where he found a ball going on. Sunday, he saw the 
scenery, and came on here at night. 



In the State of Afaine. 




MV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



cH. vni 



The whole day was wet, and I can not say I was 
sorry to have a complete rest. 

This is a fine hotel, upon American prmciples. I he 
cooking is excellent, and we dine alone, and are waited 
upon by our own servants in a " private dining-room 
which seems to us a very noisy one after the ship. 1 he 
floor is covered with oilcloth, there are no curtams, and 
outside there is always going on a racket of plates and 
voices Some kind of steam-engine thumps underneath, 
and carriages rattle down the street. We manage our 
dinner in a tolerably English fashion; but if we fol- 
lowed the •' mode," we should eat in a great room, filled 
with various-sized tables, with a large " bill-of-fare 
by us to choose from. After each mouthful a familiar 
waiter would lean his hand upon his knee, and, stanng 
into our faces, ask " What we should like next ? Then, 
at every pause, and on every opportunity, he would pour 
us out a large glass of cold water, and place it ostenta- 
tiously before us-this even at breakfast, when the sight 
of it makes one shudder. Salt-spoons are unknown ; you 

■jse your knife instead. , , , i 

Our own sitting-room is very nice and comfortable. 
Everything is arranged so that one may require as few 
servants as possible ; and this is lucky, for an idiot gen- 
erally answers one's bell, and is merely bewildered by 

one's order. 

There is a large public drawing-room, and the guests 

also perambulate the passages a good deal. 

Our maids enjoy themselves, as they dine with the 
company, and can have many kinds of food, while they 
fill their heads with the fashions. Dent gave a sigh of 
relief when she dressed me this morning, as she said, 
" Well, I am thankful none of them have a dress like 
^{^jg I .' « xhem " are Americans, who are all in a sort of 
uni^form of gray, with enormous buttons. I was amused 



CH. VIII 

' I was 

s. The 
c waited 
r-rooni," 
p. The 
lins, and 
ites and 
lerneath, 
lage our 

we fol- 
)i-n, filled 
-of-fare " 

familiar 
1, staring 
" Then, 
luld pour 
; ostenta- 
the sight 
DWn ; you 

nfortable. 
re as few 
idiot gen- 
Idered by 

the guests 

I with the 
,vhile they 
a sigh of 
she said, 
dress like 
n a sort of 
as amused 



AUG. 1873 /'J!OC£SS/O.V OF SCHOOLS. 

ti[ lor Halifax, to worry the Govt-rnor-Ofner-il - W 

'" carriage, al, abo„< and ar,„„Kl the ci.; ' ' " 

of St. John ^ ' ^'' "* ^'''"^' '^^'^ 

ror::r:::r:s:::rr>;rr^" 

over. '^ ' "^ presentations were 

see "i.rTl'tT^r'V ^"'"■' « '•--' '° 

ce s.on of the schools came to the door of the hite 
and we stood on the steps to see them ' 

so Lit it ^^"'^ '"■"""^ "•'^' but the crowd was 

Ismail ctr' ""'^"""^ '"'• ^^^"^ ^>' ^« ^^'^ through 
A small circle was formed for those who were dres'ed 

quet. the other children had to stand where they could. 



M. 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



en. VIII 




ii8 

1) made a speech to the sea of heads, which few of the 

waves heard but which will read well, 1 lu.pe 

it th; e;enin, carriages were again ready, and we 
drove through the town in a procession 

Heing part of the procession we saw little ot t 
the e when our carnage stood to let the crowd pass 
u here was an immense stream of walking lights 

" nd . Ith fire-engines were lighted up, and ornamented 
w h rc^lths and flowers. Some of the horses had high 
::!: of roses over their hacks. 'H--^^ ;-,;-; 
fectlv tremendous, and received us heartih. U hen we 
^^u'hehotel.wewenttoawindowonte^ 

story to look down upon the crowd, and thc> sasv 

'"^7tA-We had a long drive of fourteen miles 
to ChieMustice Ritchie's house, where we were to 
unch The drive was through a beautiful country, and 
: td several warm greetings on our way. An arch 
was put up at one place, and a bouquet presented. At 
unotl^r p ivate house the gate was hung with f owers. 
and the lady stepped out with a seco.d bouquet for me, 
while a third was brought me further on 

We had lunch, or what was called a " high tea ; but 
there was no tea-only champagne. ReUirning home, 
we found several bonfires lighted along the route^ 

We reached our hotel at eight, and dressed for the 
ball This was given in a new theatre, and .as got up 
• a great hurry.' The fioor had to ^e laid down over 
the pit, and the decorations to be done, and during the 
d 7we heard that it was not nearly finished, and that it 
would be dull and wretched. 

It was, therefore, a pleasant surprise when we reach d 
the door and saw a brilliant room, the «tage end with 
"Welcome "in gas-light, .ver two ---•^;^^'"^^ ^^ 
floor lined with ball-dressed people, the boxes end the 



CH. VIII 

,v of the 

and we 

of it till 
)\v(l pass 
g lights, 
amentcd 
had high 
was per- 
^Vhen we 
e second 
y saw us 

een miles 
were to 
ntry, and 
An arch 
nted. At 
1 flowers, 
et for me, 

tea " ; but 
ing home, 
ute. 

2d for the 
^as got up 
Jown over 
during the 
and that it 

we reached 

e end with 

chairs, the 

es end the 



AUG. 1873 



I-REDKRICTO.V. 



119 



dress-crcle filled with spectators, draperies of red and 
green, flags, plants, and cages of birds (which sang and 
gave a rural sontinient to the entertainment), and a very 
beautiful string-band playing "Cod save the Oueen •' 
i^upper was in the green-room. Tlie ball was ve^' sue 
cessful and amusing. There were many Americans pres- 
ent ; they dance in quite a different stvle from ours 

Sf'rJay, 2jd.-~\N^ felt very sleepy v.hen we were 
called this morning, hut we had to be down at the 
steamer at ten, and could n<.t allow ourselves any lazv 
indulgences. ^ 

We drove with the Mayor to the wharf, and were 
met by a great crowd, and there was much wav:-r of 
handkerchiefs and cheering as we left. Our journey^'was 
up a splendid river, the St. John, with lovely scene'ry all 
the way. About fiye miles from Fredericton we were 
met by three steamers crammed full of children and 
people, who greeted us warmly, and, having once begun 
to cheer, felt obliged to carry it on the whole way. 

Mr. Wilmot, the Lieutenant-Govc- oi N..^ Bruns 

wick met us at the landing-pla< , , uh a number of 
people, and we had a most gra( lous reception at this 
; the ambitious little city," " the celestial city," Freder- 
icton. 

We dined early, and went to the Exhibition Building 
where the address was to be presented. It is a very flne 
building, though only made of rough wood, distempered • 
but It has good proportions, and is very large. There 
were at least .?,ooo people present. The school-children 
sang, and after the speeches we walked round, and then 
got into a carriage and drove in the torchlight proces- 
sion. The engines looked beautiful; but my pleasure 
was somewhat destroyed by my dread of fire The 
torches were paraffin lamps, and the war in xvhi.h ma — 
of them were spilled about tiie ground, and went on 



iiA 



120 



M Y CAN A DIA N JO URNAL. 



CH. VIII 






l! 



I 



burning there, muslin },'owns walking carelessly close to 
them, made me fear some bad accident. Rockets and 
Roman candles were also (lying wildly about. 

This (iovernment House (where we are staying with 
the Wilmots, who are both most kind to us) is a very 
good one ; the river passes the house, and a very pretty 
flower garden goes down to it. 

Sunday, 24th.— i\ pouring wet day, and very stormy. 
Wc got to the Cathedral in a close carriage. It is rather 
a fine one, and is quite finished— strange to say ! The 
rest of the day we spent quietly, the greater part of 
the time in our rooms. 

Monday, 2j///.— The people of Fredericton had ar- 
ranged a picnic for us to-day, so we started off on our 
business directly after breakfast. We went first to see 
an interesting settlement, the property of a Mr. (libson. 
Eight years ago there was not a house in the place; 
now there are good cottages for the laborers, fine houses 
for Mr. C.ibson and his sons, a very ornamental church, 
and a school. He has done everything himself, and the 
place is quite a Happy Valley. His business is lumber. 
His old mother, who left our neighborhood in Ireland 
fifty-fours ago, was so delighted to see some one from 
<' hmne." Her parents having objected to her marriage, 
never wrote to her, and I wish they could see her now, 
in her son's fine house, surrounded by every comfort 
that money could buy her. her granddaughter playing 
ihe organ, and her son so much respected and honored! 
After this visit we got into the train, and with a 
large company of people went thirty miles up the new 
line, and half-way back again, to a place on the St. 
John River, where an arbor of evergreens had been 
erected, under which 250 people lunched. 

A band played, toasts were proposed, and all went 
off well, in spite of rather dull, cold weather. 



CH. VIII 



AUG. 1873 



GRAXD FALLS. 



121 



In the evening there was a dinner and a party the 
pnncpal excuement of which was that Frc^^l u.'d ! 
young lady disappeared for more than an hen in ,,' 
"■^■■nmated garden; that her parents were askinreverv 
o.>e where their daughter was; and that, cons "' tiv 
al eyes were fixed upon the culprits when they etur" J 
Ired has had a great deal of chatf to stuid IIT 

We were told that, at the hotel where the youn;r hdv 
was s ayn,g, other young ladies remarked luu ^ h'v 

"r:.:;::^s;f-----'--o.on:;::^ 

changed horsi and had "nc^ U' ^r^,, "'" ^^ 

many bouquets 1 received to-day ! ' ^ "^^^ ^ "^^ '^"W 
Wednesday, 2-7 th VW li.,) .. c ■ 

a. .Hi, ,u„c Placed;:;:,;; ;:i;:;-7,,:x:'. T" --'7 

cent l)„nf,re», an ,„i,lri.« .,„| ''■';'""""■ '■""I, n,a„nifi. 
heard ■• Rule H ,''„," •■ , , '" "= *""' *•"'"--• "' I'ed we 

There wa, I,":":::';;. ,:: ?p;"j; ,r'"f ''-^;"-- 

"rche,, T„e inn was kep. ',„ I'N^.roT.'r.lS 



i'« 






I 



il 



tl :, 

I 
I 



if 
i 

! ! 
1 






122 



M Y CA NA DIA N JO URN A L. 



CH. Via 



lady, and was perfect ! The Grand Falls here are very 

fine. 

Thursday, 2S//i.—\\'c started at eight iiunctually this 
morning, for we have 250 miles to go, and drove on as 
before, stopping to have hinch by the way, and sleeping 
at a little French inn. The family got ui* a dance when 
we hail gone to bed, and we heard the fiddle going, and 
our servant instructing them in a Scotch reel, during half 

the night. 

J'>t\/iiv, 2Qt/i.—\\Q got ui) very early, and drove, 
drove, drove on ihrough forest nearly the whole day. 
We saw one great fire in the wood, and were nearly 
choked as we passed through it. We missed seeing a 
beautiful lake owing to the clouds of smoke hanging 

over il. 

We reached Riviere du Loup about five in the after- 
noon, and got a tug steamer to take us straight over to 

Tadousac. 

There we found the whole party of children in their 
dressing-gowns, just going to bed. The five elder ones 
are looking so fat, and .osy, and well; but my baby is a 
mite indeed ! 

Saturday, jot/i.— Our summer tour is now over, and I 
return to a i)rosy account of home altairs. We have 
done all we intended to do; and the drive of 250 miles 
in four days was a very pleasant termination to our tour. 
The J)ruid was to have met us at Rivitre du Loup, but 
was detained by storm, and only reached Tadousac this 
morning. 



CH. VIII 



are very 



ally this 
ve on as 
sleeping 
ice when 
)ing, and 
ring half 

J drove, 
lole day. 
c nearly 
seeing a 
hanging 

he aftcr- 
t over to 

n in their 
Uler ones 
baby is a 

I'cr, and I 
We have 
250 miles 
I our tour. 
Loup, but 
Kisac this 



CHAl'TKR IX. 

'illK I- AM., ,873. 

Tadousac: Monday, S^f^L-mhcr ist-\ seized upon a 
fine mornn.g to bathe with the children. It is rather 
ate in the season for a first dip, but I .unid not re.sist 
tryn,g .t, though the water i. at all tin,es e.xtren.ely cold 
here. We prepared f . "^ bath in our own rooms, and 
covered with waterj ,aa down to the water. My 

costume .s of the brightest orange, and is very striking 
We are very quiet here, and U very busy, lie is writ- 
ing the whole day long. 

Friday, j///._We went on board the Druid just be- 
fore dinner, last night, and took Nelly with us for a little 
holiday. The night was rather rough, but the wind suited 
and we reached (,)uebe<- early this morning. We found' 
Mr. {;, Urodrick * at the hotel, and 1). brought him up 
to stay with us; he is very pleasant, and gave us much 
Kiiglish news. I drove him to the Montmorency Kails, 
and just as we were on our way to the Natural Steps we 
were caught in a heavy shower, and got rather wet. 
These steps are very curious. The river narrows at this 
place, and has cut a regular staircase in the rock tlirough 
which it makes its way. D. did not move from his desk 
all day ; he was up till two, and the clerks till four, ami 
the steamer had to wait half an hour this morning (Sat- 
urday) for the monster dispatch. 



• The II.,.,. (;. C. Urodrick. now Warden of Nf crton CoIK'tjc. Oxfonl. 



124 



AfV CANADIAN JOURXAL. 



CH. IX 



i 



I' ;i 



Fn'Jay, 121/1. — W- jijavc an oiitiloor afternoon party 
on the platform, an>i were anxious about the weather, 
which turned out to be perfectly lovely. The amuse- 
ments consisted of a band, dancing, a bear, and my chil- 
dren (who all arrived in the morninj^) to be looked at. 
Hasil was a splendid sigiit, and had the air of Henry 
VIII, as he sat back in a small rocking-chair, with his 
sturdy form and rosy cheeks. The others are "ery nour- 
ishing, and the " tamil) " did us creilit, particularly as I 
did not show my baby, of whom I can not yet be proud. 
Instead of her, we exhil)ited the Queen's present to her 
godchild. It is a large medallion, with Her Majesty's 
head in raised gold in the center, surrounded by rows of 
diamonds, pink coral, and pearls. On the back is en- 
graved, " Laily Victoria Ale.xandrina Blackwood, from 
her godmother, Victoria R." 

Saturday, 13th. — The day was pouring wet. I had a 
visit from a charming lady, a Miss Florence Loes,* She 
has been thoroughly trained as a surgical nurse, and did 
nurse, and underwent great fatigues (not to say danger) 
in th«i Franco-Prussian War. She wears the Iron Cross, 
and another order, which only three ladies possess. 
After nursing twenty-two men through ty|)hus fever be- 
fore Metz, she took charge of the Crown Princess's Am- 
bulaiu-e at Homburg. She has been sent out to visit the 
hospitals in Canaila and the States ; and all anti-women- 
working people ougiit to sec her! 

Monday, i^th. — I took the children to some athletic 
sports, and after luncii we drove out to the Cemetery. 
It is a very pretty one, and the trees are most of thcnfi 
decorated with a crimson or a golden branch — the first 
touch of autumn 



I.-. 



• Now the wife of the Rev. Daore CmvM, Rector of Sti George the 

Mnrlyr, Ilolborn, London. 



CH. IX 

on party 
weather, 
e amiise- 
niy cliil- 
)()ked at. 
)f Flenry 
with his 
ery lloiir- 
hirly as I 
[)(i proiul. 
int to her 
Majesty's 
y rows of 
ck is en- 
od, from 

I had a 
es.* She 
', and did 
,' danger) 
on Cross, 

possess, 
fever l)e- 
ess's Am- 
) visit the 
i-women- 

e atlilf'tic 

"cmetcry. 

of them 

-the first 



George the 



SEPT. 1873 



co.vrLArrs. 



125 



mjrws,/ay, ryth.-K football match took place this 
afternoon. The Dufferin Ch.b were dressed in bh.Cand- 
orange jersey.s, caps, a,ui stockings; and the Ji Uattery 
(the C.tadel soldiers) wore red. Colonel Fletcher played 
on the.r s.de. The soldiers were somewhat rough, 1, 
one gentleman had his nose broken. The DuffeHn Club 
won, 

Saturday, 2oth.~XW Stadacona Hunt met to-dav 
and had as usual, the w<,rst possible weather. I dro^c 
out w.th the chUdren to see the meet, and they were 
amused for a short t.me watching the jumping; but we 
felt so cold that we took ad ,-antage of a heaty show^.' 
as an excuse for returning home very soon 

Monday 22d.-\ inspected two convents this after- 
noon, wh.ch 1). had visited without me last year The 
first was the '.lion Pasteur." The M.sses Carron a d 
some other young ladies were there to ,neet us, and to 
ake cnarge of my A. D. C. The inspection was very 
long, t.rst I was introduced to all the nuns, i„d spe- 
c.aliy to t e Ir.sh ones; and I saw the novices and the 
school-chddren. who sang and ^ea.i an address; then wo 
passed to a large room where the penitents were col- 
lec ed, and observed how they had given u,. the pom s 
nd van.t.es of the worl.l. for the most unbel- omingM Ir 
poss.ble. We looked at the beautiful embroideries and 
at the useful work the nuns do; admiral the chapel a 

Havinjr thoroughly done the " Ron Pasteur." we pro- 
ceeded to the..(;rey Si ,crs." who take chargeWohi 
Peope and orphan children. Here I .sited t'hree. 

.. prett.iy-decorated throne, songs, and a request from 
the youngest child nrr-smf f^- -. u^.h- -r - . 
V.ca.re was my .spokesman on each occasion. He we^U 



126 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



ClI. IX 



round with me and made little exhortations — thus reliev- 
injij me of the necessity of finding something to say to 
everybody. 

Tuesday, 2j(f. — Such a wet day ! We just managed 
to get out on the platform for half an hour, for a game 
of very odd football with a brick, with the children, and 
had to give up all hopes of dancing there in the even- 
ing. 

We had a dinner party, and then a '* drum " ; and as 
the balcony failed us, we opened our one passage, and 
the young ladies promenaded up and down, and irank 
tea, and cracked crackers, and had supper, and seemed 
to bear the disappt)intment about the dancing very well. 

U'ciiiifsday, 24th. — We had a bride and bridegroom to 
dinner. They have been married six weeks, and are 
taking an immense tour, on their way to Japan and 
India. 1 am quite surprised at the small quantity of 
clothes she carries about for so extensive a tour, and 
one comprising so many climates. Two serge dresses, 
one "good " silk, cut stpiare, and a black silk skirt with 
a white " top " : with these, she has entered into the 
smartest New York society, and is going round the 
world. 

Saturday, 27///.— This was a most lovely warm day, 
and the weekly Paper Hunt was a very gay affair. About 
thirty people were riding, and nearly twenty carriages 
following. We saw the jumping veiy well, and the 
country looked (piite beautiful with its autumn-many- 
colored hills, the blue river, and the gay villages with 
their shining spires and roofs. The riders found the sun 
almost too hot. 

Wrdnrsday, October ist. — In the afternoon I took the 
children out to see a collection of birds made by Mr. 
I.emoine. The trees in his place were lovely, the leaves 
being now of the most brilliant colors — some trees per- 



CH. IX 

US rcliev- 
to say to 

managed 
r a game 
;lren, and 
the even- 

' ; and as 
sage, and 
id urank 
J seemed 
:ery well, 
groom to 

and are 
ipan and 
lantity of 
tour, and 
! dresses, 
;kirt with 

into tiie 
)und the 

arm day, 
r. About 
carriages 
and the 
nn-niany- 
iges with 
d the sun 

took the 
le by Mr, 
he leaves 
.zees per- 



OCT. 1873 



y /SUVA'S. 



127 



fectly crimson, and others orange, with yellow ones and 
dark green lirs all mixed. 

find .t .snowmg; but the day cleared up, and after our 
^ -nner the young ladies and the '. drum - general y 
danced out of doors on the platforuK We h:fd a e v 
n.ce party: the dancing amused some, and the Boston 
Qunuette Club, wiu. are here now, brought their inst 
men ts and played beautifully to us ; we had supper, and 
people left after twelve o'clock. 

a d smal snowstorm st.ll going on. This is rather early 

to begn, wmter, but we hope to see the ground once 

more before it disappears until May 

JW.,.,^//. A very wet day ; "our intended visit to 

the Indians, and all the sports of the week, postponed 
Mr. and Mrs Rothc ry * arrived. He is the IJritish Com- 
m.ss.oner who is to settle the f.shery pan of the Wash- 

ng on J reaty. Ii,s wife. George Dallas (his secretarv), 
and a young Mr. Russell, are with him. They hnuhe 
with us. ^ 

Tur.u/ay ////.-Fred «-ent off before breakfast to 
ram for the race which he is to ride. He has scant 
iH.pes of w.nnmg, as he walks a stone over the proper 
ndmg we.ght, and hi.s horse has just come off the gr.'ss 
In fact, h.s only chances lie in the possible misfortune of 
others. 

Mr. and Airs. Rothery dined with us, and we went to 
the Sergeants Dance, where we opened the ball with the 
Sergeant-Major and his wife. 

n'edm's,/ay, m.~l visited an asylum for old women 
anc paid a morning visit to the Ursuline nuns. The 
chddren were so astonished when a dozen cheerful ladies 



■ The late Mr. Uothery. Commissioner for W-eck^ 



128 



AfV CAXADIAN JOURNAL. 



CM. IX 



dressed in black appeared behind a double grating to 
talk to us. Basil and Hermic could not get over it at 
all, and Nelly seemed greatly amused. The key of the 
room into which we went was handed to us through a 
hole in the wall, so that nothing could be seen but the 
hand that held it. 

Thursday, pth. — The weather was so beautiful that we 
could not tear ourselves away from the " home-vie\/," 
and remained on the balcony all day. 

In the evening the Lieutenant-Governor, Admiral 
HHlyard, and twenty-four others dined with us, and we 
had a party. As the night was perfect, our guests 
danced to the light of the moon, and were much pleased 
with the entertainment. But it began badly, for when 
the band was wanted to play, it was discovered that the 
men were all asleep in bed, so there was nothing for it 
but to drink tea while we waited for them to awake 
and dress. 

Friday, lotJi. — We were startled this morning by fif- 
teen guns, — our guns saluting the (ieneral (O'Grady 
Haly), who arrived by the Montreal boat. We sent 
down the carriage, and an invitation for him to stay 
with us. 

We have begun to prepare for our ball, and I am try- 
ing to solve tlie difliculties we have to encounter in 
moving from Quebec. All our servants, plate, etc., have 
to be at the ball on Tuesday night. Then all has to be 
packed to start Wednesday afternoon ; the servants are 
to get to Ottawa Thursday evening, and visitors come on 
Saturday. Parliament meets on the Wednesday after. 

We went to sec the " Stadacona Races." I took the 
General, 1). rode, and the jockey (Fred), of course, was 
on the course before. He wore a lilac jacket and cap, 
w oighed twenty-one pounds t j much, and his horse was 
nor * fit." Theie Weic twelve hurdles and seven brooks 



CH. IX 



OCT. 1873 

t" jump. 



t^il.L AT THE C/TADEr. 



129 



UMKc Th. .'^^'^•'"•'te • tl.rcw Mis rider at the- first 

'tmc. ihe remainmg three IkuI a ^.nn\ race and tin 
end was n,ost excitin. Fred corning t, a very^cnri^ se 
ond.nspiteoralihisdisadvanta^s. ^iX^t^^i 
f ll>. I he other races did not interest us greatlv t 
the weather was magnificent t'^'it'), but 

ben^et'^'t /'''■~'T'' ''''■'''''' '"«"-^-> ^he H Hattery 
at e f' ; ■''' '"^' "'^ ''""^^'^' -^: «"^' ^'Hn 1 assisted 
at the first meet-ng of the "Clandebove Football C •' 
-a oys under twelve. There are twenty n.e, d s 

s>t.ciaai_\, Archie benig president 

wea,h„ look did ;;::, •■■"" ""^ """• ^i". '"o 

company „e „„a,„e .., n:^^ X^:^''' ^'""'^ "- 



! 



■ i,: 



(I 



l 



130 



M Y CA NA DIA N JO UAWA L. 



CH. rx 



wliicli was finislicd oil' witli festoons and roses. It looked 
very lij^^ht and pretty. There was a heavy shower at si.x 
o'clock, and tlien it cleared, and everythinjr went off 
well. The platform was so popular that it ended in our 
havinj( almost too much room in the ball-room. 'I'he sup- 
per, too, Mr. I'attisson manajrcd very well. The rcjom 
only held si.vty, and we were 330; hut there was no 
crush, and the relays were kept (juite distinct, and each 
sat down comfortably. The guests stayed till 2.30, hav- 
injr begun to dance soon after nine. 

Wciinculiiy, ijt/i. — We took a farewell walk on the 
beautiful platform before going down to the boat, where 
we found many of our friends waiting to say good-by. 
The Lieutenant-Governor paid me a state visit at the 
Citadel. 

Montreal, Thursday, i6th. — We had a comfortable pas- 
sage to Montreal, and were all glad of a good long night 
on board the boat. To-day D. was kept extremely busy 
seeing different people. We managed between two in- 
terviews to get a little walk in the streets, and at one 
o'clock, he being unable to come, I went to the Geologi- 
cal Museum, and was shown part of the collection of 
fossils by Professor Dawson, which I enjoyed very much. 
After lunch we had to start off immediately to take Mr. 
and Mrs. Rothery over the " Mont Ste. Marie " convent. 
The nuns had only two days' notice of our intention, 
but every preparation had been made, except white 
gowns for the girls, so they were in black. 

After we had gone over the house accompanied by 
the Sisters, the Bishop of Montreal (an old man, with 
long, white hair), anil the Archbishop of St. Boniface 
(Manitoba), we were shown into the sallc dc rt'ccptwi}, 
where all the young ladies were assembled. Here we had 
music, and a little piece acted by the " Muses " and the 
" Graces," each stating the reasons why she was specially 



\ 



\m 



I 



li 



CH. rx 

It looked 
wer at six 

went off 
led ill our 

Tlie sup- 
I'he room 
ro was no 
and each 
2.30, hav- 

Ik on the 

)at, where 

good-by. 

ut at the 

table pas- 
ong night 
nely busy 
1 two in- 
iid at one 

Geologi- 
lection of 
;ry much. 

take Mr. 

convent, 
intention, 
jpt white 

anied by 

lan, with 

Boniface 

ri'cepiioiiy 

-e we had 

and the 

specially 



ocr. 1873 



OTTAWA. 



131 



M 



privileged to present the address to Flis Excellency. 
1 h.s had of course been composed for the occasion 

a 1 the chddreu well, and the house looking so nice 
Many nnprovements have been made, and our princi,. i 
pas gcs have had new crimson carpets, and white pa nt 
on the doors and wails; so they look very gav and smart 
After al our travels, home looks very comfortable and 
we should be very happy but for political anxieties 

mission "^ '''""'' ^" '"''"" ^^- ^'''^ '"'''"'■^ "^ ^^^ <^°"^- 

_ Saturday, iSth.-l was busy all <lav getting the draw- 
;ng-roomto look Mived-in." The Rothervs arrived m 
the evenmg. The weather was wet and bad 

Wednesday, 22d.-Y0.mgh, we had the Ministerial 
banquet, and were thirty at dinner. The only missing 
Mnusters were Dr. Robitaille and Mr Tilly 

rW,,^. 23d -\X^ dress'^d for the ''opening" 
before lunch-low gowns, feathers and diamonds, uni- 
forms or evening coats-and at 3.30 set off in carriages- 
Mr. and Mr.. Rothery. Mr. Pattisson and I in one; iLy 
Harriet Hetcher, my three children, etc., etc.. in others 
and the Governor-General in a carriage-and-four behind 
us He opened a bridge on his way, which is to be 
called the Dufferin Bridge, and then came on. and entered 
the House with a very brilliant staff-for he had this 
year a number of officers and friends in uniforms accom- 
panying lum. The Senate Chamber was full; numbers 
of Iad.es on the floor, and crowds of people i„ the gal- 
leries. I), read the sj^eech in French and in English 

J^ruiay 24th.-Kt last we have a lovely day. 1 took 
Mrs. kothery, Mr. Brodrick, and Mr. Russell to see the 
C haud.ere Falls, and we also went over a lucifer-match 
manufactory. 

tiaturday, 2sth.~l gave the prizes for some athletic 



'r*^?i6R«!«ri»^gw*«;«' 



n i' 






11 ^1 ' ! 




132 



MY CANADIAN^ JOURNAL. 



en. IX 



sports. Mr. Jirodnck and Mr. Rothery went, to a Minis- 
terial dinner, and brought lis home much news. Lord 
Roseber- (who came to us to-day) dined with the Oppo- 
sition ; I. It, althoujrh they sat till twelve, they never 
mentioned the great fight which is coming off on Mon- 
day, and about which they were all thinking, but talked 
instead of Shakespeare and the musical glasses. The 
Archbishop of Manitoba (Riel s protector) dined with 
us. 

Monday, 27th.— Y\\it great debate began; but I did 
not go to the House, and I), and I had Rideau to our- 
selves. 

Tuesday, 2Sih.—\ went to the House to-day, and re- 
mained till II P.M. I heard Sir Francis Hincks,* Mr. 
Macdonald, of Tictou (who is a very good speaker, but 
untrained), and a Mr. {;ias.s.t It is supposed that' Mr. 
Blake J and Sir John Macdonald * are waiting for each 
other. 

Wednesday and Thursday, 29th and j-o///. — Our 
thoughts and time still occupied by the debate. The 
first day, two speakers took up the whole time. 

Saturday, November ist.—'\:\\p v.eather is very wretch- 
ed, and very English-wintery. It tries to snow, and 
succeeds in sleeting and being raw and dull. 

I saw people, for the first time since my return, to- 
day ; 134 visitors came. I had Lady Harriet and Mrs. 
Rothery and the young men to help me, and the after- 
noon was pleasant'and like a party. 

Monday, j./.— Mr. Brodrick left this morning. We 
(ladies) went to the House of Commons at three o'clock. 



* Sir Francis Hincks, member for V.nncouver, British Columbia. 

t Mr. (ilass, member for London (city), Ontario. 

t Mr. K. Blake, member for South liruce, subsequently Minister of 



Justicq in Mr. Mackenzie's Cabinet, 1.S73. 



* The Premier. 



f 



cir. IX 

J a Minis- 
kvs. Lord 
the Oj)po- 
ley never 
on Mon- 
ut talked 
ses. The 
ined with 

>ut I did 
u to oLir- 

', and re- 
:ks,* Mr. 
aker, but 
that Mr. 
for each 

//. — Our 
te. The 

y wretch- 
low, and 

:turn, to- 
.nd Mrs. 
le after- 

ng. We 
i o'clock. 



lumbia. 

klinister of 
rcmicr. 



f 






¥ 



J 



NOV. ,873 M^CDOA',l/.Ds CABINET KESIGSS. ,33 

Before the recess for dinner, there was a little scrmimaye 
over H.s Excellency's dispatches, and at the end of this 
we adjourned for two hours. 

At a quarter to nine Sir John Macdonald rose and 
spoke for r:"e hours, making a very fine speech, full of 
power, lively, and forcible to the end. He did not fail 
in the slightest degree while speaking, but when he .sat 
down he was completely exhausted, and his voice was 
quite gone. Mr. Blake got up after him .,ut a lu)urned 
the debate in a few minutes, and will mush his oeech 
to-morrow. ' 

Tuesday, 4th.~\ did not hear Mr. JJlaK';. IT spoke 
for five hours too. 

Wednesday, 5th.~\ drove into Ottawa, intending to 
hear the speeches and see the division, but at the 
Office I was told that Sir John was with the (iovernor- 
General. As the House would not sit without him I 
remained in the carriage, and soon we saw Colon'cl 
I'letcher taking Mr. Mackenzie to His Excellency Of 
course, we guessed that he had been "sent for"- and 
the groups of two and three who stood about turned 
their heads curiously and nodded in a knowing way 

^Ve took our places in the House, and Sir John got 
up and briefly announced thnt- th« n ■ . 

rpcwrn<..« 'vl """"^^^^ that the Oovernment had 
resigned. The announcement was received in perfect 
silence. i<-iic(.i. 

Ho.I^'. ^PP««ition directly it was over, crossed the 
House to their new desks. 

Saturday, ^.V.-This is the family half-holiday; so 
af er dinner we went down to the ice, and exerted our- 
selves to learn the Dutch roll-mother and children and 
governesses struggling and tumbling about, but all 
making great progress. 

Monday, ^./M.-There is a regular snow.stnrm going 
on. ^Skating was out of the question, so we went out 



mtmm 



\' ', 



»34 



MV CAXADIAX JOURXAL. 



CH. IX 



to toboj^gan. The snow was soft and loose, and we 
were nearly choked aiul buried in it ; but, of 



course. 



the children liked this very much. 



Tuesday, .?j///.— We were inveigled down to th 



e ice 



in a biting cold wind, but were too much blown about 
to learn anything. 



Monday, Diienifwr /s/.—]). had a party of Scotchn 



len 



for curling and lunch (St. Andrew's Day), and we ilrank 
the " (^ueen of Scotland's " hcaltii. This was the open- 
ing of our new Curling Rink. It is close to the Skating 
Kink, and the tobogganing hill is on the other side; so 
we have (piite a nest of amusements there. 

Il'<d//i'sday, jd.~A\ixs for the thaw !— our Rink was 
just right, and now all the ice, and all tlie skating, dis- 
appears ! It is in a terrible state— all over Iimips and 
bubbles, with dead leaves frozen into it, whic h, as you 
know, burn holes in the ice. 

Saturday, <^///.— Being the twelve children's half-holi- 
day, Saturday has now become a weekly festival. We 
skated all the afternoon, and after tea had a great re- 
hearsal of the children's i)lay. Mr. Di.von exhibited a 
magic lantern, too, which, though only i)artially success- 
fid, was received with shouts of delight. 

Afonday, .W/.—Thermometer i.S° below zero. The 
day looked didl, but we had a most delightful skate 
on the Ottawa— clear, smooth ice, and any amoiuit of 
space. I found myself able to go more than a mile as 
fast as possible on tiie outside edge. The children en- 
joyed it immensely. 

Monday, /<;f/i,—\\ went into Ottawa, and came back 
in time for a short skate. In the evening we had some 
of tlie new Ministers to dinner. I am trying to become 
a (]rit, but I can't (|uite manage it. It takes ine as 
much time as the out. .de edge backwards, I sat lie- 
tween Mr Muckeiuie and Mr. (^'artwright : ! like them 



m 



t 



k 



cit. IX 



m 



t 



I 



DEC. 1873 

both, and the latter 



CHRISTMAS. 



135 



IS 



Mackenzie is v 



very talkative, and pleasant. Mi 



cry straightforward and 



Scotch, in accent 

lim sat M. Letellier St. Juste, a French Ca 



nice, and ven 



:ind in looks. On tiie other siile of 



then came Mr. Vale, from Halifax, and tl 



I'rinie Minister, Mr. Alnion. 
large deaf-and-dumb insti 



nad 
II 



lan, and 



W 



le Ilaligonian 
c also had lilt; head of a 



institution at JJelleville, who is very 
anx.ous fur us and " family " i„ ,,, ,,,„,„ „,,.,^ ,„ ^^.^. \ 

pantomnne done by his pupils, and thinks a journey of 
SIX hours absolutely nothing for the purpose. 

Fruiay, i^th.~\\^ attended an amateur performance 
m aui of a charity. It was very good indeed. The 
firs part consisted of <• waxworks " done bv the beauties 
of Ottawa. They certainly have a taleiu for /„M„/..v, 
lor I never saw anything more perfectlv still than they 
were-although they were " on view " for nearlv half- 
an-hour at a time. Each one was wound up in turn, 
and went through its performance admirably. 

Tu,-uUn^ .V'/.-I drove into Ottawa on a Christmas 
shoppmg e.xnedifion, skated in the afternoon, and dined 
at si.x, as we had to g., and give prizes to I'rotestant 
schools in Ottawa. The n.om was very hot, but the 
"exercises" went off w.ll. and 200 people had to be 
nont away for want of space. Children read and sang 
I), received an address, .md replied to it, and we did not 
give the prizes, ns there was not time. 

W'cdimday, ^^///.— C.nwen and I'red * arrived this 
morning, both looking very well. Thev found me busily 
arranging the Christmas-tree. C-awen began his skating, 
but at present he looks very fall and shakv on the ice 

ThnnJay, ^^fM.-Tiie church was beautifully deco. 
rated for Christmas. 



My l.rotli.T,. Taptnin (',. Rnunt, H^.,-!!.,.., !.,!.. -1. j,_. 
Gunni., .iM.I Capiiun \\ Rowan U.imiltt.n, A. I). C. '" "'^""" 



iHI 



I3f> 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH, IX 



Luncli and a little skating filled the aftcrii 



oon, and 

at five the children's Christmas really liej,Mn. There 
were ten of thcin under eleven for Lea, and very pretty 
the table looked, with their little fair heads all round it. 

The tree came next, and was a j^^reat success: every 
one seemed to get what he wished for, and the books, 
toys, etc., will be thoroughly appreciated during the 
week's holiday. 

Saturday, -.7///.— This morning we attended a perform- 
ance at St. Joseph's College. The house was beauliful- 
ly illuminated outside, and we had songs and addres.ses, 
and a little French play acted by the students. It was a 
good night for sleighing, and the drive home was pleas- 
ant. 

Wednesday, J tst.~\\ti had our first skating party to- 
day, and I was able to perform the outside edge back- 
wards and forwards (juite well enough for puDlic display. 
About seventy peojjle came, but there was not enough 
snow for tobogganing. After the out'loor amusements 
ve danced in the ball-room, and I think all enjoyed 
themselves very much. 



Clt. IX 



CHAPTER X. 



i 



OUR SFXOND SKAbON AT OTTAWA. 

T/iurs</it\\ Janiavy /, /.e^^.—I). had, unfortunately, 
a had c(.ld and licadachf, and so I was ohlijrt.d to re- 
ceive the gentlemen of Ottawa l)y myself. Von leintm- 
Iter that they pay visits to all their aajuaintaiiees on 
New Year's Day, and that every 'idy in the land remains 
at home to receive them. Two hundred and seventy 
came to see me, jjreeteil me, and passed through the 
drawing-room into the dininjr-room for teaor cliam|)aKne 
—mostly champa^Mie! One very odd man apjieared 
whom I had nev.r seen before. He said to me, " Ah, 
very .sorry indeed to hear -iiat Lord Dulferin is ill ; he is 
such a K'reat fellow, it really would be a pity if anything 
were to happen to him. . . . Do I speak to Mr. Hamil- 
ton ?•• Fred ^jot him off into the dininH:-room, where he 
continued, "I knew Mr. Ccmway " (our other A. D. C, 
whose name was Cloulson) "so well that I felt I knew the 
orowd.so I thought I would come to-day. Sorry His K\. is 
ill; he is such a good fellow, always turning up e\ cry- 
where. Awful bore this sort of thing, but one is obliged 
to do it." 

I have been busy the last few weeks teaching the chii- 
dren to act a little play, to be performed before an au- 
dience this New Year's Day, so, directly the last of mv 
visitors had gone, I rushed to make final arrangements 
on the stage, to visit mv patient and gel him up, to dress 
myself, and to dress the fairies. 



138 



^fy CAXALVAX JOURNAL. 



CH. X 



Every member of our two families* between the ages 
of twelve years and eight months appears either in the 
play or in the hiNraux whieh come after it, and I only 
wish you were here to see how well they all do it and 
liow pretty they look ! 

In the piece they rei)re ,eh. imps who, clad in the 
gayest att.re, are invisible to the n.,rtal eve the moment 
they put on certain bright-colored caps, and visible 
agau, directly tliey take them off. The fun of the play 
consists in the way in which they are supposed n, ap- 
pear and disappear, i^Iaguing the life out of a gigantic 
mortal, who either can not see his tormentors at all 
or whose frantic attempts to catch them when he does' 
only lead him into the traps they have prepared for' 
him. ' 

My little troop e-Mered fully into the spirit of the 
plot, and were so delighted with Fred's acting in the 
part of "(irumps," the troubled mortal, that they were 
realy holding their sides with laugnter, and there cer- 
tain y was more nature than art in their representations 
of the mischievous imps. 

'I'he lahh'iiNx were ecpially successful, and though an 
eye wasoccasuHially opened during the " SIee|)ing Beauty 
n the Wood" scene, and then consciei.Jously shut up 
again with unnecessary firmness— thorgh one infant 
preferred to sleep with his legs in the aii , another 
made an uncalled-for announcement in the miiklle of 
a tabluu, r/>vr///— the whole performaiue was most 
charming and successful, and actors, parents, and audi- 
ence were all e(|ually delighted. 

SiUiinfay, jr/. _ The cold has diminished, and now 
there are only ten degrees of frost-which is nothing 
One really does not feci cold lialf as much here as in 



' Ours anil Coionel Fletcher's, 



■I 



en. X 



JAN. 1874 THE IXSTITUTIOXS OF OTTAWA. 



139 



Enjjland. The house is warm throughout, clay aiul 
night, so that one does not shiver over one's drcssnig, 
or dread vcnturini; out into the passages, or crowd 
round the fires in tiie rooms, as one docs at liome. 

And then, wlun one wishes to go out, one knows 

thanks to tradition and to the thermometer — exactly 
wliat ought to i)e put on, and one wraps one's -elf up hke 
a mummy, antl drapes one's face in an indisj)ensable and 
most becoming " cloud," and thus defies the wealiier. 
We had a delightful skating party, 'i'he ice was lovely, 
and while numbers of graceful performers danceii over 
it, otiier young men and maidens, to say nothing <;f 
fathers and mothers, were sliding down hills in tobog- 
gans, children were digging and burrowing in the snow, 
and nurses and perambulators added a homely aspect 
to the scene. Vou can't think how lively it looked— 
like an ant-hill decked in brilliant colors. 

When it got too late for outdoor amusements, we 
came in for tea, and the young people danced for an 
hour. 

Afoiufaw 5*^' — I'lit-' tiiermometer only 5^^° ' 'I'he most 
unheard-of thaw, and the snow almost entirely gone. 
We were, however, able to skate about two miles up 
the Rideau-a very rare chance here. In the afternoon 
I actually drove on wheels into Ottawa, to begin a tour 
of inspection of the Institutions therewith Miss Lees. 
We went first to the Jail, which we found comfortable 
and well kept; Miss Lees thought it the best she had 
seen in Canada. We next went on to the Protestant 
Orphan Home, a small house, with a stuffy slee|)ing and 
living room for the babies. A better hoit-c is much 
needed. 

Tuesdaw 6th.— Wt drove in a snowstorm to the Crey 
Nuns' Convei^*, and were received at the "Mother 
House "—the order having about ten establishments in 



■*»mi<fmmimvi.sammm» 



'iif 



li 



ll :i 



I ji 



140 



MV CANADIAiX JOURNAL. 



CII. X 



Ottawa, of which th 



mil nit 



is is the head. I visited the " ( 



oin- 



'ty, and the " I'ostulaiits," and went intc, the 
c lapei, where the nuns were singing beautifully. From 
tins house we walked to the Hospital, and after it t<, the 
Orphanage, and the Refuse for the Old. All these Miss 
Lees examined as well as she could. J!ut she lit <•. to 
turn up every sheet, and to peep into every con.T, and 
tins IS a Kind of inspection to which the good nuns are 
not acuistomed. They like my perfunctory style much 
better, ami I am amused when I go abcnit with her to 
see her shppi,,^. behn,<l the scenes at most unexpected 
•"omc-nts. and surpn u)>; everybody !>y her searching 
(luestions. * 

\Vedncsu'ay,rth.~-\\\ .„ u-h.d the -Grey Nuns" to- 
day by visiting their sch.,.ul and an Knglish Orphana-^e 
Miss Lees is going to write a book about these things" 
so I need not record details. 

1-ast night we kept Twelfth Night by practicing the 
"Boston Dip "and Badminton. 

T/uns.hn^St/,.~-n^^ weather is despairing. It will 
thau-, and even condescends to rain, which in a C\,nadian 
January .s mean ! Think of the ground being visible' 
and nw skating! and umbrellas up! and driving on 
wiieeis ! 

There was, however, a sight to-day which I am glad 
|;' ''aye seen. After the rain it fro., hard for a short 
'-"H'. leaving ropes of luautiful clear ice hanging from 
t "• telegraph-wires. while the trees seemed to be the 
.IccoratuMKs of a fairy play. Words really do fail to de- 
scribe the beauty of o„r woods while this "ice-storm" 
contmues. There is a transparent sheath round every 

InTl'l , nV'"' ''^■''^' particularly pretty, with its 
s.na I and well-known rods all rased in clearest crystal. 
^^•'"I^' '" tlu. .listance the trees seem to be made of silve^ 
with (la/./ling jewels on every bran,-!,. It reminds mc of 



JAN. 1874 



COXCERT. 



141 



M^ story of the twelve princesses wl,„ used to disappear 
"t n.glu, and uere, after n.uch searelH^K^ discovered by 
".e owner of an nnisil.le cloak to fre.,uent a garden 
whose trees were covered with precious stones. I ,ke 

e ,nv.sd>le sold.er, I can not resist break,n, o, 

-chesand takmg them home ; but, unUke h.s mv 
diamonds melt. - 

Jf">-^'^y, /cV/,.-The skating party, which ha.I been 
rostponed on account of the thaw, took place to-dav, bu 
resolved .tself nuo an nuloor party. The voun-. ia ! 
came .n extra smart attire, feeling that the^had ml g 

b .me of them. I regret to say, evidently rejoiced in 

he- bad weather . After the dancing the children per- 

forn,ed the.r little play and taNcau.. again with g eat 

success. K'^^'iL 

SaturJay, /////-This was a most lovely clay for our 
skatmg party, so warm (about .0° below freezing-point) 
the tobogganing hill in perfect condith.n, and the ice 
good. I skated the whole time, only sf.pping occasion- 
ally to watch the toboggans come down : once Fred was 
left behind in the michlle (.f the hill, and rolled to the 
bottom; another time, three i^assengers remained in the 
snow, whde the fourth sailed on to the bottom of the 
slide. 

Tuesday, .V"//'— Thermometer 30° below zero during 
the p.ight— about zero during the day. We skated a lit- 
tie. but there was a good deal of snow on the ice \\. 
five o'clock the children were all readv in their fairy 
dresses to act their play to about f.ftv of their contem- 
poraries. After the performance they had tea, and then 
games and dancing till eight. The guests were many of 
them very pretty, and all very well dressed 



U'i'i/it,'s,/,i\\ iSth. U'e have !e 



concert in aid of our little church, and the 



nt iiiir bali-ronm for A 



morning was 



iim 



mm mmr^i » i » i hubbb I 



142 



MV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. X 



I' 1 



u 



occupied in placing the three hundred chairs, and in pre- 
parinj; the staj;e. 

Tiic first part of the programme consisted of vocal 
music i)y amateurs. Then "Rosa d'Erina " sang four 
songs capitally. Three very pretty tableaux closed llie 
entertainment: Ihe Death of Cleopatra; the Expulsion 
of Hagar; and a group of flower-girls, Nelly being one 
of them, ("leopatra was very handsome, and was beau- 
tifully dressed. 1 think they will have cleared fifty 
pounds. 

Saturday, jTst. — Saturday brings its usual skating 
party. The day was very cold, and we cut short the 
outiloor amusements, and had a very successful cotillon 
indoors. 

Mr. Mackenzie, the Prime Minister, arrived. At the 
station he received a note from D. asking him to come 
out to us, which he did immediately, and stayed for din- 
ner. On returning to Ottawa he found he hail missed 
an ovation, which had been prepared for him after his 
very successful elections. I believe his majority will be 
about eighty. 

Montreal : Monday, February 2d. — We left for Mont- 
real, and had a long day in the train, but with books, 
and short naps, we got through it very well. 

Tuesday, jr/.— Soon after breakfast, we went up to 
the Rink, the two Misses IJethune and ourselves being 
the only privileged persons, as it is shut to the public on 
account of the fancy-dress ball which is to take place 
there to-night; we had i)lenty of room, splendid ice, and 
a most delightful skate. 

At eight o'clock we went back there for the ball, and 
took our places on a raised dais at one end of a great 
building like Westminster Hall, with an architectural 
roof and ornamented rafters, its shiny ice floor illumi- 
nated by a thousand lights. As sooii us the band 



CH. X 



FEU. 1S74 



MONTREAL. 



143 



changed from " God save the (^uecn " into some lively 
s ™n, we sa^.^ from the far end, gay fancy-dressed 
h^'ures ghdn,g hand-n,-hand down the Ke, and passin.. 
- ,n coupler till at last the whole space was covered 

Red R.d.ng. Hoods etc. J). skated in plau> clothe.'; 
only looked on and enjoyed the scene 

J^jt'T'"'' ■''"-''■ --ted the High School, and 
made a Latui oration there. 

Tuesday, loth.-W^ had a band at the Rink this 
n.orn.ng. and skated to music. We danced the lance;: 

ualt^ed and some "outside-edged" to the " lilue Dan- 

I must tell you the names of some of our f.gures 
though 1 fear they won't convev much to you We e^^' 
c:ute the "Rose," the "Shamrock," and the "Thistle"." 
he Ransom ' the " Lily," the " Snail," the " Serpent," 
a Cham of " e.ghts," etc., etc. I wonder if ever you will 
sec a performance ? 

//v.//,,..,/,,,. /,//,_,Ve took the .r.iil by surprise this 
mc „„«, and ,n»pecte<i i,. The won.o's ,lcp..r„„e„. is 
m nsat.sfactory but as a new female prison is l,ei„,. 
. t le can l,e sa.d. We foun.i live women sleeping" 
" . .my ,x.M. a„,l ,l,ree in a bed ; and we saw prisoners 
wah u rl.papers ,•„„] ornamental ribb.ms, and one with 
her ha,r mnch dressed, an.l with eurls „,m,me,l ,1 v 
..,K.n her forehead. The ,nen were n.uch better car^d 

After dinner Fred Wirrl Wr- tu ^ 

.. . , , »>ar(i, Mr. I hompson, D an( I 

"-en to see the games a. the Rink, which look d v ry 

son,:', m irr::™ :- r."'""» t "- '--■ "-" 

Unrr I ■ ■ exeitrng and amusing. The 

barrel.races went off with ■• .,t spirit, „„d the buys, in 



U 1 



144 



A/V CANADlA.y JOURXAL. 



CH. X 



i-M 



all stajres of creeping thnu'/h br.t''V.aless barrels, roll- 
ing and struggling about, iookcci iike strange shell-fish. 
Mercifully, none were hnrt, for it must be a dangerous 
game. 1 gave away the prizes afterwards. 

I have been elected a member of the Rink, and am 
the only lady who holds that proud ptjsition. • ' ',0, 
1 believe, the first wife of a Governor-General who has 
ever skated here. 

Thiirsilay, 12th.— \). and 1 left early, and were "seen 
off" by a guard of honor composed of the students at 
Magill College -a fine-looking rifie regiment. We had 
Mr. i5ridge ;' car, and traveled in great comfort. We 
found it v<', 3 cold at Ottawa. All the children in differ- 
ent stages of old. 

Ottiucui : Tuesday, jyth. — There was a very exciting 
game in the Curling Rink between 1). and Mr. Cordon, 
a Presbyterian minister. They play for the Club prize, 
and whoever wins to-day has to play another member, 
and so on, till the last man remaining gains " the horns." 
This game was very close, "twelve all," and the ne.xt 
shot must decide the winner. We all came in to watch 
the last strokes, and IJ. got " two," and so won, and has 
a new antagonist to encounter. 

ThinsJay, igth. — We had a great expedition to-day. 
Our party filled two sleighs, and we start. 1 at eight 
o'clock in the morning, anu Irove ihree mi < along, or 
rather on, the Gatineau river, and then eighteen miles 
throiigh the " bush," enjoying \.\\<^ winter scenery. It was 
a prettier diive than I had e.\pected, l)eing :u<>re open, 
less shut up in wood, and the horizon more varied than it 
usually is here. We saw the Gatineau rapid' ; ushing 
along black-looking through the snow; -''so something 
of the lumber-trade, for we met all the ; > s'-ighs full 
of wood coming to market. As they re ' (led, w-e 
had 10 make way for Iheni, and on twu occasions we 



i 



% ... .-.^" 



I 



CH. X 



FEB. 1874 



A WINTER'S DRIVE. 



145 



met ,n most awkward places, when we all luul to ^^, out 
and hft our sle,,d, sideways on to the hank, and once we' 
had to take out the horses. Another tinie we were at 
le top of a hdl. and our foe wanted us to back down it 
We asked .f he couid not back, but he exclaimed indur- 
nantly, " Why, there are enough of you there to l.ft 
that cutter of yours right over the mountain "-this of 
the great famdy sleigh ! 

We arrived at last at the house of a farmer, the 
-wner of a cave, which cave was the end and object of 
onr expedition. Here we lunched, and , n. guided hv 
he farmer, we proceeded on our wav two nules alon-^ a 
lumber .sn.-w road, very narrow and bumpv. We kit The 
carnages on a lake, and clnnbcd up a h.ll to the nu.uth 
of the cave, where we took (,ff our fur cloak.s, and, each 
takmg a lighted can.lle, entered the cave 

After examining a part of it, which I mav call the 
hall and ante-room of this subterranean mansion, we 
proceeded .hands and knees through a very low pas! 
sage to the drawing-room. We ladies had 'grea S- 
cjdty wth ou, :>ettic<,ats. especially when in this m- 
bled-up posu.on we .,ad to cross a pool of water o . 
narrow plank and .. g.eatly relieved when we were 
able to stretch ourseh. s upright again. New peri s Jm 

1 1 1 "'"i-ii, in me darkness, ai)neared fn 

lead down to the mi.ldle of the earth, r t 1 vve ve v 
naturally observed to them, we had no, dri'ven twel 
nules, and crawled <.n hands an.l knees to the spot to 
be deterred by a small difficulty ; , down we we t ^ 

lur^Orr^ 'T 7'"^ '' ^''^ '--"-^ "^ «^^"n^ 
s.on. Of course the place requires a geologist's eve to 
appreciate it thorouLrh'v If ic .,,,,,. ,,r ^^ ^^.^^^o 
even iffpm.u f 1 'i • ■ "■ " "^-" no; i won't 

cvtn attempt to describe its origin 

n 



I 



"i-i MM«>WA 'tm, W.M W ' , '» iW'J-'M't»i l BM t M 



146 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



cir. X 




We came out from our crawlinjr very dirty indeed, 
and, returning to our carriages, drove homeward. Our 
slei-h was fust, and we had just descended a very steep 
hill when we heard a noise, ,nul looking i)ack saw the 
second sleigh stranded in the middle of the road, its 
horses galloping madly towards us. ( )ur footman rushed 
m front of them, and caught hold of their bridles just 
as they were upon us; he was knocked down between 
them, but was not hurt. The gentlemen all got into 
the broken sleigh, and fmally arrived safe home, though 
they were run away with at every hill on the way 
back. 

It snowed most of the day, and at the end of our 
drive we looked ideal Canadians. 

Moinhiy, .^j,/.-_There was a very exciting curling 
match to-day between U. and Hutchison for "the 
horns." 

1). won by si.x ]5oints, and will now have to encounter 
another player. The boys made some calculations 
afterwards, in which they proved that each i)layer had 
run eight miles, had thrown f(Kir-and-a-half tons forty 
yards, and had swept out the Parliament Buildings- 
pretty .severe labor for one game ! 

Tuesday, s^f/i.—Thii " Fred's --for we have no less 
than five of that name in our household— played a 
match, the winner to be the "representative member" 
of the new "Viceregal Curling Club." Brother Fred 
won it. 

He and Colonel Fletcher dined with the Ministers 
"in honor" of the Dominion Board of Trade, and Fred 
returned thanks for the ladies. 

Safurdiy, .^W/.— Colonel Strange, from Quebec, and 
Mr. Plumb, M. I>. for Niagara, dined with us, and we 
had an "electric evening." I don't suppose you could 
have one at home : but here by rubbing our feet on the 



1 



If 



I 



cir. X 






MARCH 1874 KUiCTRlCAL EXPERIMENTS. 

cl .cc a spark, and from any hot metal, such as the ire- 
place, we jret (juite a shock. 

Mr. I'hunb showed us a very curious thin.^ We 
wen uuo a dark room, and rubbed the ins.deof the b- k 
of a book wuh a fur glove, and n^stantly the gilt u n 
on the outside was illunnnated by sp.irks s' ,nt tl" 

dajtmie. He discovered this accidentally by passiniri 
P.ece of fur round h,s hat, when the maker's ^ ' „ 
peared msale u. letters of light. Then we tried to i.:, 
l>e gas, and I had the satisfaction of succeeding three 
Umes myself I hdd a p.ece of wire, or a n::!^ i ' ^ 
nd ruboed my feet on the carpet, and touched thi 
>u.nc , a spark was emitte<l, and the gas instantly 
i^la-cl up. The children are extremely fond of chrr' 
mg .U some unsuspecting victim with a linger or a ^X 
whKh instantly emits a perfect flash of lightning. One 
day I bmught the baby down to the drawing-n>om. and 
Fred (who had just been rubbing his feet preparatory to 
trying an electric experiment) kissed her and gave her 
such a shock that she cried with fright. 

Wednesday, March ^//^-The ice still demoralised 
and every one grumbling. ISoth grown-up people and 
children find " walking on the boards " a sad exchange 
tor skating, tobogganing, and curling. 

Friday, ^///.-The Ottawa Curling Club came and 
played on our Rink for His Excellency's medal Thev 
• made a good score, and have hopes of winning it Mr 
f'.Imour and Mr. Mackenzie spent the afternoon here 
and curled with I). The Premier brightened up very 
much during the "roarin" game." 

Saturday, yth.-lx. poured, and the beginning of the 
afternoon party was trying. Skating was out of the 
question, and a few ladies dropped in alone ; I was in 



!■■■ 






I 



148 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL, 



CH. X 



despair, but at last the tv;o necessaries— men and music 
—arrived, and we had a very nice little dance and cotil- 
lon. Hermie and Basil contribute ^^reatly to the amuse- 
ment of the company. She and Hasil talk to every one, 
and are always in such high spirits, that the lookers-on 
like havinjj them to play with. 

Nowell (D.'s valet) won the cup, and I presented it 
to him ; it is to have his name, and " Presented to the 
Vicerejjjal Curling c:hib," etc., engraved on it. 

Tuesday, lotli. — There was tremendous excitement in 
the Curling Rink to-day— I). l)laying another opjjonent, 
Mr. Russell, for " the horns." 'J'he game was very in- 
teresting. 'I'hey had to make twenty-one points, and 
five times durnig the course of the game they were ties, 
I), winning finally by one— a very honorable and unex- 
pected victory, as Mr. Rus.sell is the "skip " of the Ot- 
tawa Club. 

Tut-sday, ^y///.— There was beautiful tobogganing to- 
day. The children went down in every sort of way, 
double and single, standing, sitting, and lying. Once 
they tied four toboggans together, which looked like a 
raft covered with people— a rescue from shipwreck. 

Friday, s-^l/i.—h day of much ceremony. Diamonds, 
lappets, and feathers at two o'clock, when all drove to 
the Parliament Ihuldings, the C.overnor-Cleneral in car- 
riage-and-four, and I in a (|uiet brougham, to a private 
entrance. I went into the .Senate Chamber, which [ 
found full of ga\ ladies, and soon we heard the gunr. 
which aimounred His Ivxcellency's arrival. We all stood 
up to receive him, as he came in jireceded by his .Staff. 
He sent for the Commons, and the new Speaker made a 
little speech, and the President of the Senate replied to 
it. Then T). rc.ul the speech, first in Kngiish, then in 
J'rench, and we departed as we came. 

On my return I dolleU my finery until after dinner, 



I 



CH. X 



APRIt 1874 



ES'GLISH VISITORS. 



149 



When I dressed up again, and we returned to the Senate 
Chamber to hold a Drawing-room; it went oil very well 
and was quite a brilliant affair. ' 

Satimiay, 28th. — \Sq turned out of the drawmg- 
room to-day, to have it arranged as a second supper- 
room. 

The conservatory was hung with Chinese lanterns 
and everything that was possible done to embellish the 
rooms for an evening-party. 

There was a band, tabhaux, and some singing in the 
drawnig-room, supper m two rooms, and I believe people 
enjoyed themselves. 

Sumh\\ j^(/t.—\\<i had such a nice walk on the Ot- 
tawa. The !)anks were lovely, clothed in icicles, and ice- 
grottoes, into which we got, had been formed in places. 
'I'hcy were supported by enormous pillars of ice, and a 
frnige of large icicles shut us in. 

Ti,cs,/ayy3ist.~\ went into the House, expecting to 
see Kiel take his seat. There was great excitement out- 
side, but he did nut appear. We iieard a very amusing 
debate a!)oul abolishing the sale of spirits within the 
precincts of Parliament. We were very busy at home 
preparm- everything for a full-dress rehearsal of a 
selection from the opera of " Semiramide - and the little 
play of •' One Hour," in which I myself take part. The 
rehearsal was successful, the servants making ui) an 
audience. 

Thunday, 3d A/>n7.~m, Charles Kingsley*and his 
daughter are staving with us, and we took them over the 
Houses of i'arliament. and had Si.- John and l.ady Mac- 
donald (me day, and Mr. and Mrs, Mackenzie anotlier 
to meet them at dinner. ' 



•The Into Rev. C!mr!o« Kin^Kk-y, .uihnr of Wchlw.nni ISuJ 
Hypatm, etc. 



''fifif'iiisimvmmmm 



150 



MV CAXADIAN JOURXAL. 



CH. X 



i 



\m\ 



Saturday, 4th.-~\\^ looked on at curling to-day and 
saw I), beat the "champion," Mr. Gilmour, twice ' Dr 
(Jrant dined with us, and he and Mr. Kingsley were very 
hai)])y over j,reoI()gical subjects. 

Juistcr Sunday, j///.-There was a great congregation, 
and we had an excellent sermon from Mr. Kingsley 
ai.propriate to the day. lie does not stamn.er at all i,,' 
preachmg. The gentlemen say that in the smoking-room 
he IS most amusing; but he seems shy, and is therefore 
less brilliant, in general society. 

Tuesday, rth.-\). walked 'into Ottawa, and in the 
street met Mr. Laurence ()lii)hant,* whom he asked to 
come to us at once, and to bring his wife. He is very 
pleasant, and she is a sweet, pretty little woman, very 
chatty. Ihey belong to a curious sect, headed by a 
Mr. Harris. They have no objection to talking about 
>t to us, but she tells me that in the community 
tlicy never speak of religion, that they have no church, 
no services, and that every member believes, or, rath- 
er, disbelieves, what he like.s. Thcv look upon Mr 
Harris as a "moral doctor," and all their efforts in a 
"Kood" direction are employed in c.uupiering their 
own faults i)y their own efforts— and Mr. Harris's pre- 
scriptions; they also believe that their prophet actual- 
ly suffers physical pain when his followers offend, ami 
that they know when they do wrong themselves by 
a peculiar sensati(m in tiie throat. Thev consider 
themselves bound to spend all they have; not merely 
to give to charitable instituli«Mis, but to distribute 
It personally. They live in a district where they have 
farms, and the members all help each other as they 
can. 



• The Intp I.jnircnte t)lii,|,.itii, .uitlior of Tlu- riicadilly Papers 
etc. ' 



en. X 



MAY 1874 AMATEUR THEATRICALS. 



151 



they 



FnJiiy, iot/i.—\). curled, aiui nearly killed Mr. Oli- 
phaiit with the e.xertion. I like both her and him very 
much ; and certainly their faith in what they do beUeve, 
and their conscientious performance of the same, are 
wonderful. 

Fru/,n', /-///.—The jrrcat ball jriven by the citizens of 
Ottawa in our honor took place to-ni^rht, 'Piie dancinj; 
was in the Senate Chamber-a very handsome room— 
and a new floor was put down for the occasion. 1 sup- 
pose two thousand people were present, but there were 
so many i)assaj,a's and i)romeiiades that thedancinjr was 
not too crowded. We much appreciated our hosts' kind- 
ness and hospitality. 

Moinhiy, 27t/i.~\\'G were pleased to see in the morning 
paper that there are $900 (nearly ^200) over, after all 
the ball expenses have been paul. which are to be mven 
to i;harities. 

!lWm-s,/,n; -?y///,~In the eveninj,r our play came off 
and was a sreat success. People seem to listen with eyes 
and ears, and to be <|uite deliKhled. 'I'he whole com- 
pany was jro<„|, and every one knew his or her part, and 
it went smoothly and with spirit. 

After it was over I changed my dress in about three 
minutes, and came down to supper. Stray couples walked 
about the corridors, visited the conservatory, and hud 
what is called "a lovely time," 

When I had shaken hands with the "si.x hundred." 

and we were alone awain. we had our supper, of which 

we were all very glad, for nctinK makes one so hunjrry ! 

S„/un/.,y, }f,n j,f.-\). and Kred went (..it huntintr, 

and had a very pleasant run. 

The children tried a paper-chase. Colonel lletdier 
was the fox, and the run was most e.\citin)r. the '< h<.iinds " 
•hrieking all the way, and hnving some dl-IiKhtfully stifT 
timber to rlimi;. 



152 



AfV CAA'^D/AJV JOURNAL. 



CH. X 



;!( 



A Parliamentary (Imncr; five expected guests failed 
to come, and left a great yap at the table. 

r/iurschy, /.////.-The Lieutenant-Governor of Nova 
Scotia and M,ss Archibald arrived tr, spend a fevv days 
with us. 

Lady Harriet is expecting' her sister and uncle— a 
«:reat excitement in our small world; f„r, though our 
guests are numerous, our home-circle is small. We have 
very pleasant weather, and sit out a great deal, enjoying 
It; but as yet there are no leaves on the trees, and no 
plants bedded out. 

FrUaw j.V,— \\o had such a pleasant day, driving in 
two carriages to visit Mr. Gilmour's place on the (iati- 
neau River, and to see his sawmills, etc. Lady Mary 
and Mr. Marsham. who arrived on Fritlay, went with us. 
The weather was line, ami the river verv full ; the rapids 
were magnili.ent, and it was very interesting to see the 
lumber go down them. 

We watched the trunks of great trees turning and 
twisting in the whirlpools, passing fr„m one current to 
another, dashing down waterfalls, disappearing in the 
waves, and coming up again on the brink of other rapids 
We saw them reach a place where a number of men, with 
poles and spikes, stood by to harpoon and mark (l-e 
passing monsters, sending those stamped with a "(J " in 
one direction, and those with a '• I' " in another. After 
thi.s, a further rush down the river brought the logs to a 
calm pool, where they were just recovering from their 
excituig voyage, when they were laid hold of by an in- 
norent-Iooking cogwheel, up which they marched slowly 
and surely into the teeth of fourteen thickset saws, which 
sent them m pieces on a further sail, down a small 
trouRh of water, to the s.tack yard. In addition to the 
almost human interest of this tragic performance, we 
had lovely scenery to |o„k at, a good limch to cat, a nice 






ili 



MAV 1874 



THE QUEEN'S DlRrifDAY. 



153 



1- 



drive, and a row home in boats ; so we enjoyed ourselves 
miicli. 

Monday, ^j///._The (Jiieen's birtlulav I<ent The 
morning h.oked bad, but we dressed ..urselves ni. and 
at eleven arrived /n fn.nt of the Town Hall, where the 
hremen ami engines were to be reviewed. \Vc lonked at 
and walked round them-the rain c,.min<r ,inwn a little- 
listened to an address, and then proceeded to the review- 
ground. 

The Governor-Generars Foot Guards looked ex- 
tremely well ; l)ut the weather was <!readful. and when' I 
came to give away the colors ,t poured m torrents, so 
hat the feathers m my i,onnet stood on end, and I h.ul 
to lake olt my veil and throw it away. Vou may im- 
a^ine my mother's feelings when I turned round in the 
"iHl.lle of the deluge and found that Arehie was out in 
danemg-shoes! Wo had luneh in a large tent, and I) 
made a speech, which you may read in the newspaper 1 
send you. * ' 

IIW„rs,/,n; ^^///.-VVe made an expedition down the 
Slide to-day. D, paddled ins canoe to the foot of the 
( haudicre I'alls. folond I'leteher rowed there, and we 
took two carriage-loads, with five ehildicn-.-.dl in -i 
Kreat state of excitement. \Vc found a nuigniflcent 
<•'•'!) prepared for us~(lags and green arches over it • 
and when we were all assembled, we started at a slow 
am! stately pace on our journey over the Slide down to 
the Ottawa. It takes three waterfalls to reach the level 
of the river, and gomg „ver these is the greatest fun 
\\v remain,.,! ,.n our crib for some time, and then g,.t on 
to a rait for tea. which we drank out of i.ns, without 
milk or sugar; and we ate raft -made brea.l. whi,h was 
excellent. 

J'n\An, j^f/,.~\Vv went up the Khieau in a carriage 
fur ain.ut civint .Miles, and saw the Kails, which are very 



^■^!^s^mmmsmmm& 



a^im-^. 



it 



154 



AfV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. X 



pretty. Had tea there, and came back in canoes, D. 
rowing me. There was a beautiful sunset, and the river 
was lovely— the scenery much more English-like and 
meadowy than it usually is here. There were some rap- 
ids to run, and we ladies got out, while the Colonel and 
1). took their canoes down. It was (luite dark when we 
got hdinc. 

Sati,nlay,3otfi.~i\^ it was a lovely day, and as the 
mos()uil,..-s are, so far, very harmless, ha'd tea out of 
doors. We carried the things down to the rocks, and 
the children were extremely happy attending to' the 
fire, and jum|)ing about at the edge of the water. 'I'he 
two families were present — ten old enough for pic- 
nics. 

Tuesday, June 2ci.—\WQ drove about twelve miles into 
the country to the borders of " Meech's Lake," a pretty 
piece of water inhabited by swarms of mos(|uitoes. We 
drank our tea in a cloud of smoke, to keep off the tor- 
mentors, and then got into our canoes (which had been 
brought here in a cart) and explored the Lake " We " 
means the Fletchers, Lady ALiry Marshara, I)., and my- 
self. ^ 

Our expedition did not end quite pleasantly. It had 
been arranged that we were to get into a boat half-way 
and row home. The night was very dark, and the ( ur- 
rent tremendou.s. Presently we came up against a beam 
of wood stretched across the rushing river, which we 
knew had an opening in it through which boats could 
pass; but in the dark we could not find the place. The 
Colonel, who was rowing with I)., said the ladies would 
have to get out, and that the boat must be lifted over 
the bar. ( )h. it was disagreeable ! We knelt on the nar- 
n.w plank, with the rapid stream swirling under it, and 
I don't think I could have done it but for a fortu'nate 
peg in my bit of plank by which 1 held on, and which 



i 






"^ 



CH. X 



i 



JUNE 1874 



EXCURSIONS. 



155 



gave me a certain sense of security. Lady Mary was so 
brave : she made no fuss at all. When the boat had been 
drajr^a-d over the beam we got into it again ; hut we had 
several more alarms about steamers, rafts, etc. and I 
was thankful when we got safe home without collisions 
or further accident. 



*l» 



CHAPTER XI. 



Ml 






FISHING ON THK ST. LAWRKNCE. 

Quebec : Saturday, June 6th.~\\^ left Ottawa yester- 
day-Archie, I)., and I; Nelly was up to see us off and 
looked a httle melancholy at being left behind ' We 
went by tram to Prescott, and had two hours to wait 
for the boat, which had been detained by fog We 
feared this delay would disarrange our plans, and make 
us late for the night-boat from Montreal; but as it 
waited for us, we made our journey successfully, and 
arrived this morning at delightful Quebec, where as 
usual we met with the most friendly welcome. Pcoi)Ie 
always seem so glad to see us here, and all the way up 
the town faces were smiling at the windows, and hats 
were off everywhere ; it is just like coming home ! In 
the afternoon Archie played in afoot-bai. match—" 'I'he 
Clandeboye" against "The Rovers"; I need not say 
who won. 

n. and I had a walk in the town, and then I un- 
packed the English box, which has just arrived, and 
which astonished me with the new fashions it contained 
I can not yet decide whether to put on tlie bonnets for- 
wards, backwards, or sideways. 

Wednesday, loth.—Wt went on board the Druid, and 
left Quebec. The day was lovely, and as we went down 
the St. Lawrence the <-oIoring was beautiful everywhere 
We passed numbers of sailing-vessels. 

Friday, /-?///.— Found ourselves in sight (if Gas-)^ 



awa yester- 

us off, and 

-hind. We 

Lirs to wait 

fog. We 
', and make 

but as it 
ssf Lilly, and 
:, where as 
le. People 
the way up 
<, and h.its 
home! In 
tch— " The 
h1 not say 

then I un- 
rived, and 
contained. 
)nnets for- 

Onti(/, and 
vent down 
'erywhere. 

of Gasp^ 



tSSSS&^ajssrnser"^' 



« 



r ? 




^W 



Junk 1874 



THE YORK RIVER. 



157 



c 



this ■nornin.^.. Net a ripple on the water, and the phice 
lookin^r i.n-ely. Mr. Kcicn, the vivacious harlu.r-master 
came on board, presented me with a lar^^e Indian box 
which had been made for me. told us all about the 
salmon, etc, 

1). went into the bush to sec about our llshin- 
">x. We iiave brought with us the pieces of a little 
Dc'droom and dressin--room, which are to i,e put to- 
gether on the site, which I), walked ei^^hteen nules to 
select. 

'riie night was very bad-rain, snow, and hail We 
are glad to be m harbor. 

Sunday, /^///.-Rather a fine-kx.king morning l)i,t 
cold. We went to church and had a good serm'on- 
short and plain. In the afternoon we landed on the 
U.rk side of the harbr.r, and drove along a good road 

We met a friend on the way, a farmer, originally 
from Cavan, who has cleared, and now lives upon, thirty 
acres of his own land. He and his wife have added 
fifteen to the population of Gaspe. He asked us up to 
his house, which was very comfortable: a large sitt n- 
room, with three concertinas, books, etc.. in it ; a dininj-' 
room, kitchen, and nice bedroom on the ground floor 
and everything very neat and clean. The view from his 
door— lovely. 

. ,if ""'"''; '5th.~Onx two rooms were taken off in the 
middle ot the night to their destination on the St. John 
River, and I)., Archie, and I soon went after them We 
made the first part of the journey in a " wagon,"" then 
got on horses, and rode at a iog-walk for three hours 
when we reached our fishing-Dox. Wc gave all neces- 
sary direaions there, and then mounted again to cross to 
the \ ork River. When we reached Mr. Reynolds's camp, 
which IS situated on this rushing river, I got Archie 
some food, and then the poor little man had to start 



'f'mF 



CH. X 



.) 



APRIL 1874 



ENGLISH VISITORS. 



149 



'■#-• 



«/ 



when I dressed u't^ again, and we Veturned to the Senate 

Chamber to hold a Drawing-room ■ it wentoff very well 

-and was quite a Utilliaht affair. ' 

^•a/^r^a;.,^^//,.- We turned out of th6 draimg- 

foom to-day, id have .it arra.>ged as a second supper- 
room. ' , .' ■: ^ 

The conservatory was hung with ChiTiese lanterns 
and everythmg that was possible done to embellish the 
rooms for an eve,ning-part)r. • 

There was a 5and, tablcaui, and some singing in the 
drawmg-room, supper in two ., • u,s, and I (relieve people 
^njoyed themselves. •> . ' 

■ Sunday, 2gth.^\St had such a nice walk on the Ot- 
tawa. The banks were lovely, clothed in icicles, and ice- '■ 
grottoes, into which we got, had been formed in places. 
They were supnbrted by enormous pillars of ice, and a 
fringe of large/Icicles shut us in. ^ ,. 

r//«./^.vs jA/._ I went in|o the House, expectingJil 
see Ricl take His scat. There was great' cxctement out- ' 
- side, but he did not appear. We heard a very amusing 
debate about abolishing tlie sale of spirits? within the 
, precmcts of Parliament." We were very busy at home 
^ -preparing everything for a full-dress rehc<^rsal of a 
selection. from, the opera of " Semiramide " and the ^ittle 
play of-'<One Hriur," in which J myself take part. The 
rehearsal was successful, tl^e servants making up an 
audience. 

• Thursday, id April. ~Ux:On;,x\t% Kingsley 'and his . 
daughter are staying with us, and w« took t lM.m over the 
Houses of .Parliament, and had Sir )o^n artd Lady M«c- 
donald one day, and Mr. and Mrs. .Mack-Muie another 
, tt) meet them at dinner, .'-• »■• 




^i 



Dalfa. etc. . '> '^ . f 



Hypatta, etc 



V:, 



y 



\'M 



* . V N^ 



A\ \h 



*%jhf 



»♦• . 



sV- 



150 



Jfy CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. X 

.Va/«rd'<y, ^/^.^VVe looked on at cwling to-day^'and 
saw U beat the " ehampion," Mr. GiJraoui-, twice ' I)r 
Grant c^ined^with us, and he and Mr. King^Iey were very 
happy over geological subjects. 4^ ^ 

Easter .Sunday, j//,.-There was a great congregation, 
and. we had rf,i excellent sermon from Mr. Kingsley 
appropriate to the day. He, does not stammer at allin 
preachmg. Jhe gentlemen say that in the smoking-room 
he .s most amusing ; but he seems shy, and is .thexefore 
less brilliant, in general society. 

Tuaday, jth.-VX walked into Ottawa, and in the 
street met Mr. Laurence Oliphant,* whom he asked to"^ 
come to us at once, and to bring his wife. 'He is very 
pleasant, and she is a sweet, pretty little woman, very 
chatty; 1 hey belong to a curious sect, headed by a 
Mr. Harris. They have no objection to talking alwut 
't to lis, but she tells me that in .the community 
they never speak of religion, that they have no church, 
no -services, and that every member believes, or, rath- 
er, disbelieves, what he likes. They look upon Ml 
Harris as a " moral doctor," and all the'ir efforts in a 
"good" direction are employed in conquering their 
own faults by their own efforts—drtd Mr. HarrisVpre. 
scnptions; they also believe that their prophet actual- 
ly suffers physical pain when his followers offend, and 
that they know when they do wrong themselves by 
a peculiar sensation in the throat: They coiisider ' 
themselves bound to spend all they have; not merely 
to give to charitable institutions, but to distribute 
It persbnally. They live in a district where they have 
farms, and the members all help each other as (hey 
can, ' . 



"He 



•» The late Laurence Ulipharit. aliihor of TJ... Y\yr'M\ 



lly Pitl 



J£Bk 







CH. X 



MAY 1874 AMATEUR THEATR/HALS. 



151 






Friday, JO/A.—D. curled," and pearly killed Mr. OJi- 
phant with the exertion. I like both her'and him very 
much ; and certainly their faith in what they , do believe, 
and their conscientious peffornianee of the same a^e 
wonderful. ' • ' 

/-r/V/r/v,////;. -The great, ball given by the citizens of 
Ottawa in our honor took place to-iiight. The dancing 
was in the Senate Chamber-a ve.'y handsome roonv- 
and a new floor was put down for Ihe occasion. 1 s^p. 
pose two thousand people were present, but, there we/e < 
so many passages and |)romenade.s that the dancing wis 
not too crowded. We much appreciated/our hosts' kind- 
ness and hospitality. 

A/vnJay,:!y//i.-We were pleased to sf^l^hc, morning' 
paper that there are $900 (nearly ^2o() over,- after all* 
the iKiH expenses have been paid, wJiicli are to be given 
to charities. 

nWu,sday, ^^M._In the evening our play came off 
and was a great success. People seen) to listen with eyes 
and ears, and to be quite del.ghted. The whole com- 
pany was good, and e^;ery one k.iew his or lier part and 
It went smoothly and with .spirit. 

" After it wa» over I changed my dress in about three 
minutes, and cMe dowh to^upper. Stray couples walked 
about the corridors, Visited the conservatory, and, had 
what is calle^l %a.loAety time." 

'When I had shaken hands with the ''six hundred" 
and we were alone again, we had our supper, of which 
. we ^ere all Very glad, f«)r acting makes one so hungry ' 
.SW«r^/v, May jd.^i). and Frt^d went out hunting 
and had a very pleasant run. 

The childfen tried a paper-chase. Colonel Fletchet 
was the fojt, and th<j run was most exciting.'the " hoiui#" 
'ilirn'kihg fill the way. and haying suuie tfelightfriHy stin 
timber to cUmb. 



-K 






152 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. X 



A Parliamentary dinner; five expected guests failed 
to come, and left a great gap at the table. 

Thursday, /^///.— The Lieutenant-Governor of Nova 
Scotia and Miss Archibald arrived to spend a few davs 
with us. '. ^ 

Lady Harriet is expecting her sister and uncle— a 
great excitement in our smaU World • for, though our 
guests are nupierous, our Jiome-circlels small. We have 
very pleasant weathtr, and «it out a great deal, enjoying 
It; but as yet there are no leaves on the trees*, and no 
plants bedded out 

Friday, 2id.~\\'^ had such a pleasant day, driving in' 
two carriages to visit Mr. Gilmour's j^lace on the Gati, 
neau River, and to see his sawmills, etc. Lady Mary 
and Mr. Marsham, who arrived on Friday, went with us 
1'he weather was fine, and the river very full ; the rapids 
were magnificent, and it was very interesting to see the 
lumber go^down them. 

We watched the trunks of great trees turning and ' 
twisting in the whirlpools, passing from one current to 
another, dashing down waterfalls, disappearing in the 
wjves, and coming up again on the brink of other rapids"" 
We saw them reach a place where a number of men, with 
poles and spikes, stood by to harpoon and mar(c the 
passing monsters, sending those stamped with a "(; " i^ 
one direction, and those with a " P " in another. After 
this, a further rush down the river brought the logs to a 
calm pool, wher€ they were just recovering from their 
excitmg voyage, when they were laid hold of by an in- 
nocent-looking cogwheel, up which they marched silowly 
and surely into the teeth of fourteen thickset saws, which 
sent, them in pieces on a further sail, down a' small 
trough of water, to the stack-yard. In addition to the 
almost human interest of this tragic perf(.rmance; we" 
-had '"'"•'• • 1 . . .. » . 



iy£i»-iiccxi6fy-tu-UH44-^^^<>o(j hinch to eat, a nice 



-^ !■*?('$'. t*-^ *^ (■ 



m^ »-^ 



MAY X874 T/fE QUE&irs BIRTHDAY. 



153 



ourselves 



drive, and a row home in Wats; so we enjoveti 
much. ' 

Monday, ^jM.-The Queen's birthday icept. The 
morning looked bad, but we dressed ourselves up and 
at eleven arrived m front of the Town Hall, where the 
firemen and ea^s were'to be reviewed. We h.oked at 
and wa ked rou^them-the rai,^ coming down a little- 
Kstened to an address, and then pi-oceeded to the review- 
ground. 

The Governor-Generars Foot Guards looked ex> 
tremely well ; but the weather was dreadful, and when I 
came to give away. ,^e colors rt poured m torrents, so 
that the feathers in my bonnet stood on end, and I had 
to take of( my veil and throw it away. You may im- 
agine my mother's feelings when I turned round in the 
middle of the deluge and found that Archie was out in 
dancmg-shoes! We hadjuneh in a large tent, and I) 
made a speeGh,.%bich you may read m the newspaper 1 
send you. 

IVidiu-sdny, 27th-.\\^ made an expedition down the 
de-tA-day. I), paddled his canoe to" the foot of the •• 
(haudiere Falls. Colonel Fletcher rowed ther^ and we • 
took two cafriage-loads, with five children-all in a 
great state of excrtement. We found a magnificent 
cnb prepared for us-flags and green arches over it- 
and when, we were all assembled, we started at a slow 
and stately pace on our journey over the Slide down to 
the Ottawa. It takes three waterfalls to reach thefevel " 
of the river, and going over these is 'the greatest ftm 
We remained on our crib for some time, and then got an 
to^ a /alt for tea, which we drank out of tins, without 
milk or sugar; and we ate raft.-made bread, whic^h wW 
excellent ' 



Slide-tA-( 



titt- t hr Rid c a ii m a rarr i age '' 



1 ,^ 



ii. 



for about ci^htmiJes. and saw the Falls, which 



are yery 



••'■'"Si*^"''' 






154 



Jtfy CAJ^ADlAIf JOURNAL. 



CH. X 

pretty, / Had tea there, and came b^cfc in canoes, D 
roiRring/me. Thererwas a beautiful sunset, and the river 
was Icively-^the scenery much mdi'e English-like and 
mea(|6wy thaait usually is here. There were some rap- 
ids tb run, and^we ladies got out, while the Colonel and 
D.jook their dSnoes down. ' It was quite dark when we 
got home. -^ ■ 

\ Saturday, 3Sth.^j^ it was a lovely day, and as the 
mosquitoes are,; so' %r, very hai-nriess, had tea out of 
3or§. We carried tJie things .down to the rocks, and 
ihe children were extrem%. happy attending to the 
/fire, and jumping about ^ tfte edge of the water. The 
/two families were ^present — ten old enough for pic- 
nics. . v- -V""' ■ ' ■ , ■'■■■' ■ ■ . 

Tuesday, June 2d.— We drove about twelve miles into 
the country to the borders of " Meech's Lake," a pretty ■ 
piece of water inhabited by swarms of mosquitoes We 
drank our \ea in a cloud of sittoke, to keep off the tor- 
mentors, and then got into our canoes (which had been 
brought here in a cart) and explored the Lake. " We " 
means the Fletchers, Lady Mary Marsham. 1)., and my- 
self. ■ ■ ■ 

Our expedition did not end quite pleasmitly. It had 
been arranged tlrtt we were to get into a boat half-way 
and row home. The, night w^s very dark, and the Cur- 
rent tremendous. Presently we came up against a beam 
of wood stretched across the rushing river, whieh we 
knew had an opening in it through which boats could 
pass; but in the dark we could not find the place. The 
Colonel, who was rowing with D., .^aid the ladies woiild 
have to get out, and that the boat must be lifted over 
the bar. Oh, it was disagreeable ! We knelt on the nar- 
row plank, with the rapid stream swirling under it and 
I don't think I could have done it Ixit for a foctiinat'e"' 
p e g la my bit of pUnk by which i held On, aM^ wTucir~" 



I 



t ■> 






CH. X 



1 



iV^ ^v 



JUNE 1874 



EXCUXSlpNS. 



155 



gave me a certain sense of security. Lady Mary was so 
brave : she made no fuss at all. When the boat had been 
dragged over the beam we got intoit again ; but we had 
several more alarms about^teamers, rafts, etc.. and I 

: sSfe home without collisions 



was thankful when we got 



or further^aceident. 



I 



.< ■* 



A 



\ , • , - u 

,41 V' . 1 I^W 1 



f^B^B^smsmmam 



.1' 



>4 



i-^r^N 



' CHAPTER XI. 

FISHING ON THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

Quebec : Safufnay, June tfM.^We left Ottawa yester- 
day-Archie, D. and I ; Nelly was up to see us off, m 
looked a little melancholy at being left behind We 
went by tram to Prescott, and had two hours to wait 
for the boat, which haxl beeq detained by fog We V 
feared this delay would disarrange our plans, and make 
us late for the night-boat from Montreal; but as it 
waited for us, we made our journey' successfully, and 
arrived this morning at delightful Quebec, where as 
usual we met with the most friendly welcome. People 
^always seem so glad to see us here, and all the way up 
<he town fafces were smiling at the windows, and 'hats 
• were off every^ere ; it is just like coming home ! : In 
tl^e afternoon Archie plaVed in afoot-ball match—" The 
Clandeboye " Against '' The Rovers"- I need not say 
who won. * jf . i 

*r). and I had a walk in the town, and then I un- 
packed the English box, which has just arrived, and 
which astonished me with the new fashions it contained 
I can not yet decide whether to put oii the bonnets for- 
wards, backwards, or sideways. 

IVednfsdt^, loth.^VJ^ went on board the Druid and 
left Quebec. The day was lovely, atfd as we went down 
the St. -Lawrence the coloring was beautiful everywhere ' 
We passed numberg of sailing-vessels. 

/^r,««r, /^M._-«tJTnTU aurseives^"srgHt~^FGasp^ 



/-- 



.» a 



\ ■• ; 



.V 



■■I 



pVi^v?>5--»^ ' 



■HI' 



awa yester- 

us off, and 

ihind. We 

Its to wait 

fog. We \ 
* and make 

but as it 
jsfully, and 
, where as 
c People 
the way up 
5, and 'hats 
fiome ! • In 
eh—" The 
:d not say 



fe 



-f*- 



hen I UH' 
rivedj and 
contained, 
nnets for-, 

^fut<f, and 
'ent down 
cry where. 



of Gasp^ 






Z>^ 



'' h 



r^ 



/I 
i 




ir«it*"' 



.«P^S^^ 




June 1874 



Tm YORK RIVER. 



157 



h.s mormng. Not a ripple on the water, and the place 
looking lovely. Mr. Kden, the vivacious harbor-master 
came on board, pret^ented me with a large Indian box 
wh.ch had been lyiade for me, told us all about the 
salmon, etc. • 'X ■ 

box. We haveWught with us the pieces of a little 
bedroom and dressing-room, which are to be put to- 
gether on the sit^, which D. walked eighteen mUes to 
select. j 

The night wai^' very bad-rain, snow, and hail We 
are glad to be in |iarbor. ,, ' 

Su,uhiy, /^//..-[.Rather a fine-lookin^r morning, but 
cold. We went |o church and had a good sermon- 
short and plain. In the afternoon we landed on the 
York side of the t^arbor, and drove along a good road 

We mefa friend on the way, a fanner, (originally 
frT^ Cavan, who ^s cleared, and now lives upon, thirty 
acr,s of h.s ow^ land. He and his wife have added 
.fifteen to the p Julation of Gasp.^ . He asked us up to 
his house which jvvas very comfortable: a large .sitting- 
room, jv.th three foncertinas, books, etc.. in it ; a dining- 
room, kitchen, an^ nice bedroom on the ground floor 

Mo^ay isthLonr two rooms were taken off in the 
middle of thecJht to their destination on the St. John 
R.ver and D., Archie, and I soon went after them We ' 
m^de the first p^rt of the journey in a " wagon," then 
got bn horses, ar^d rode at a jog-walk for three hours 
when we reached our fishing-box. Wc gave all neces-' 



sary directians t 
the York River. 



-wlHeh,; 



vs sTtiratep 
some food, and 



ere, and then mounted again to cross to 



OT this rushing river, I got Archie 
!:hen the poor little nian had to start 



^, N / 




s» 



_/ 



ft 



■ ^, «<) \ 



v^. - .0. 




IMAGE EVALUATION 
TEST TARGET (MT-S) 




// 









/!/ 




f/. 






I.U |50 '" 



I.I 



1.25 



25 






1.4 



1.6 



W 



o^ 



^% 







Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 



33 WIST MAIN STMIT 

WIBSTIR, N.Y. 1 4310 

(71*) •73-4903 





^ 





o 



<\ <0v ^\ 




I 






fA 




rsS 



M Y CA XADIA A' JO URN A L. 



cii. xr 



! 



back 



was vcr 



aRain, and only reached home at ten at nijrht. Ik- 
y proud of his Ion;; day, which prevented his 



ackno\vk'(l;^nng any falij^u 

Our host is so pleasant and kind, and wc had 
agreeable dinner; Colonel McNeill * and Mr. Monck 
also here. Afterward 
th 



a very 



s we sat around a fire outside. 



are 
and 



len came in to write uj) the ^Mine-book. 



Titcs,ht\\ 1 6th. — It 



rained early in the morning, |)ut 



was sunny, though cold, ^^x^x\n^ the day. I fished for a 
short time, and caught, or, rather, hooked, a " kelt "—an 



uneatable salmon, whiih has I 



)een in the river all tlw 



winter. I), caught one salmon of 14 lbs., Colonel McNeill 



two, and Mr. Monck two; but it 
bad day's sport. 



as considered a very 



Thi 



s is a beautiful river 



tuinihers o 



rai)id current, very clear water. The woods h 



deal of birch in th 



em, and the look-out 



open than on most of the rivers. 



f pools, a very 
:»ve a ;.;reat 
is much more 



On our ret 



fo 



urn we had dinnr-r. camp-fire, etc., as bc- 



re. I have such a comfortable room, with carpet and 



curtams 



U',\{n,-uh\\ ryf/i.~\). fished vij,'orously all this very 
wet day with no result. 'I'he only ff)rtunate person was 
Mr. ^^.nck, who br()u;,du home two salmon, .'6 and 27 



th 



le (itliers 



lbs. 



those " unclean " fish 



caujrlit kelt, and were very angry 



over 



/'/////, s, /,/!•. /,W/.-\Ve (elei^rraphed last week to Fred 



and Dr. Campbell not to ( 



ome. as there seems no cl 



lance 



of the nshinir on the St. John bcKinniny yet ; but to-day 
we hear that they have arrived. Colonel McNeill and 
Mr. Monck have most kindly Ronc up the river to a 
distant house in order to leave room for them here as 



• ^fninN(;l.ncrn! Sir J.,iu. .McNeill, V. C, K. C. H.. E-iucrry to 
H. M. ihe (Jnecii. ' ' 



CII. XI 

i«;lit. lie 
eiitcil his 

ad a very 
loiuk are 
tsidc, and 

niii;^f, but 
lied for a 
clt " — an 
r all the 
1 McNeill 
•d a very 

s, a very 
c a ji^reat 
icli more 

'., as he- 
rpct and 

Ills very 
soil was 
> and 17 
;ry over 

to Fred 
I ( lianre 
t to-day 
(•ill and 
cr to a 
here, as 



JUNE .874 FISinXG A 7- YORK RIVER. 



Mr. R 



rihly wet. 



cynolds insists upon h 



'59 

laving them. The day is ter- 



Satuni,n\ .',v//._Fre(I and Dr (' 

■ery early, having left the /;,v//,/ 
Ue had a very beaiitifuj d 



river had risen s< 



and I took a walk, and Fred 



niiicli that there 



imphell arrived here 
>t 5 A. .M. 
ly as to weather, hut the 



as no fishing. I). 



self 



and two men into the water. 
Mr. Monekeamedown from his I 



iip>^i;t a canoe, and .,ent him- 



"II, one twentv-n 



lit' and the other twent 



!i<uise with two salm- 



.V///A/,/r, 2ist.~\i last we 1 



y-two j)ounds. 



can not he considered a "mid 



li;>vc a fine day, though it 



a walk, and sat 



round a "sniud 



summer's day." We took 



damp wood, wiiieh smokes and k 



-that is. a fire of 



niosipiitoes off. 



ccps the l)la( k-ll 



ii's and 



Mon(/i 



',t\\ 22ii.~\ 



i"k'. The river i; 



ice weather, i)ut the sal 



much to(. Iii^rh, and tl 



nion not ri> 



rapid. I went down to the po.d where 1 



le current too 



th 



c canoe, and walked hack I 



not to do so again, lest 1 should 



>y myself; hut I 



was fishing i 



n 



Tiu'uiity, 2j,/.~}\ 
so far at Vork River : 



meet a hear. 



;iiii advised 



ere are the statistics of our fishing 



Mr. Reynolds, five fish, weiul 



13 lbs. 



'Khing 23, 2,, 3^^^ ,0 



Colonel McNeill, twel 

*S. 27, 3^, 24, 20, 26, 14 II 



ve, wei 



ghing 



24. 22, II, ,8. 



34. 



Mr, Monck. 



15 If'^ 



seven, weighing 25, 11, 26, 27, 



'7, ij, 



Lord I )„ three: 1.,, ,.^. ,0 lbs. 



I'Vfd. tw 



So f, 



<>: 31, 14 lbs. 



R 



evnolds (• 



ir we have not been fort 



mate, Last year Mr. 



'"Jrlit ten fish himself the first day'l 
i^lits were: 47. .^7,30, , 



out. Their respective weigl 



20, 18, p, 30, 10. the nvera«re ! 



' - ' .!-» .i«t lu, me nver.age heintr 
marvelous in the way of fishhig, and I 



"f? ?5 lbs. Th 



lie went 



•9. 

Is is 



record it as an 



i6o 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



cir. XI 



interesting fact, thouirh i Uon't suppose you will appre- 
ciate it. 

TliuisJii\\2Stfi.—.\xi:\\\ii arrixed to-dav, and Mr. Rey- 
nolds left. I ). had at last a yood day's nshinJ,^ and came 
home with six salmon: 26, 25, 14, ,.3, ,2, ,0 lbs. Dr. 
Campbell caught one, 23 l!)s., and Kred nothin),'. The 
(lay was extremely cold, and we were surprised that the 
fish rose at all. 

Our mail arrived, and in the middle of his salmon- 
tatchinjr |). sent olt dispatches. 

/'/7./,/r, .'^///.— Fred was j^rjven the best pool to-ilay, 
and I), went up to the "Little Salmcm H(de " and the 
" Mat Rock " pool. I walked there with him, a distance 
of about three miles through the woods, and Archie 
went up the rapids in a canoe. lie and I then looked 
(Ml at the sport, he amusiuK' liimself between times by 
cuttin^r down trees with a hatchet and by feeding .1 fire 
with wood. 

D.'s first fish was a very lively little one. which 
jumped and frisked about, and finally took him rij.,rht 
down the rapids. It was 12 lbs. 'l"he .second sulked, 
and merely kept a good steady pull on the line, keeping 
it up for an hour, and only making for the rapids at the 
last moment. It weighed 23 lbs. 

Our lunch, which the men provided, consisted of lum- 
berman's fare: bread fricl in pork fat. and tea. We 
all came down in a canoe, the stream bringing us at a 
great pace. 

We foe id that Dr. ("ampbell had not even seen a 
fish. Tred caught two, and having just finished a strug- 
gle with a twenty-six-pounder, he came home to dinner 
in very good spirits. This fish was already gaffed and 
m the boat, when it jumped out again, broke the top of 
his rod, and had to be played for another five minutes; 
BO that it was a miracle he saved it. 



CIt. XI 

)ii will api^re- 

aiul Mr. Key- 
ing, and came 
, lo lbs. Dr. 
<>tlliIl;,^ 'I'lic 
iscd that the 

liis salmon- 
pool to-ilay, 
)le " and the 
m, a distance 
and Arcliie 
then looked 
L'en tunes by 
ceding -i fire 

(Mic, which 
>k hini ri;.,du 
:()nd sulked, 
line, keeping 
ra|)ids at the 

isted of liitn- 
ul tea. We 
k'ing lis at a 

['vcn seen a 
hed a strug- 
le to dinner 
galled and 
; the top of 
ve minutes; 



Jink 1874 



OCA' C.I.)//\ 



161 



clothes, there ^w.re two ,e„ " '" "-"'- ""r 

^" '- ^--I'-ted ov): :: , :; " •"" •"'• ->•' " >'-'.- 

^'"•<'Ugh the hush, I, uy ,;''''';-'''^^ ''■''■ ^^''''''^ 
f-vnnnutcsaftcTthM- 1. ''"' ^''■"■'^■'"" "•'"<. and a 
"'^'Stream, with -, It'tl "'''" '"'"' ''"'"'"^ ''""" 

v^'^ ^••-'•'"HMcxeiii and M,-M;;n;r;:;"'V'' ;'"'"• 

"'•■'' the raft contained ,1, ""^ *""••""'"'• ^'-nnd 

»■<■ niTc M,„i, af,^.,. ,11 , 

""■- 'HI, a„.i , „,dc.-i ; ;'•"■'■ ■"""'■• 

,';"->■■ -.,,,,,•,;';';:;,;::;:'>•"■--■■■-".'-, 

TlH- „„■„ l,.„, ,v,r , V ;" "'"" »'—la.,l i,. 

'-^ l'a.l.s ,,„„ . ., : . """■ ^'■'" '™l "-!.■ . ..,l„r. 

.iivi.i. ..'.,:;'„ :"'■■;;■"■•'" ••';•» i™ „„„.,. 

':''"'■ TI„T,. i/ ; ' V "';■"■''• "''"'■ m"«|mt..., „r. 

^'-iv..,. I ^litur;;'';;::^';,;''''! ''■"'■' '"■•■'»''■''' 

i" wl.i,.„ „„r ,„c",: 1;;:;,;;" "-'" "'"'!.■ "...I,:,.,- 

^>Pn<'site our door 1 l.,.Mn.. i 

"— "■ c.,,av,.:;;,^ ";;,.'":-■ ;■■• <■ 

awav. ^miujgo to siiiokt 



loKe tlicni 



1 6: 



.vr ci.wiD/.i.v /ocA'XAr. 



en. xi 



'I'lic kit<lic 



II is ill aiiolluT IdLT-hou- 



(■ <in tlic (ithcr 



side, ;iii(l from it 



we sdoii had an excellent dmne 



Nouell (|)."s valet) has made all these arr 



iii''cnicnts. 



and, 111 spite <.f many bites from the iintirin.i; llies, he 
works away with j^reat goud-hiunor and ..kill. 



If 




OIK mr, 



.U,>iiJ,n\ jQffi.—'Vhv Tirsl CisI 



im)4' on our own river. 



The lislu-rs (h'ew lots for the pools, and ,\r( hie and I 
went to see D.'s siicet'ss. He only broti.tjht two home 
wlu'ii we rf'tiirnt'd to dine at two o'clock. The others 
had iif-t seen a fish, so i >. and iJr. ( '.unr.heii icsoivcd lu 



July 1874 



DOMIXIOX DA Y. 



JTo flown towards the mouth of 
ly now oil their way up. Ih 



163 



th 



e river, the fish bei 



in which th 



to fish in a hike el 



ey intended to sleep t 



ere is a little h 



ouse there, 



trout. S(jme of these 



ose by, and b 



"-ni«ht. Arch 



ic went 



e ate for tea 



^"""^ 'J' iiiese we ate fo 

IVeJnesJay, July /j/.—Anoth 



rought home fourtee 



n 



It was Dominion I), 



;»y, we had several (] 



t^r very bad day, but, 



o'clock- in ,1, f , ' "'*-'>■ '''*'' ^'^'^ed till two 

^^^^^•, '3. M lbs.; and Dr. Campbelinve-.,, „,,.,,, ,^ 
T/iinsiiiiv, 2d. — D was mm nf 

can,htfive-sa,nu>n!^Ct: :^;,rH"^''^'''^"'' 
J'ome when he cau.d.t the la t so le .h r 'T "'"^'"^^ 

it down to the house I wash "'"'."''' '" ^^'"«^ 

nshermen-s return to din:^^;:T;;r""^'^^^"^ 
i"^-thD.han,i„,ontoa;:n::'^^;.?;:n^^^^^ 

c.Un,,andwesawthecreature brought as W^:^,::; 
"P and down the nool wWK .. v!' ^T.. ''^'^''"" ^''^ «" 



try the " Silver Doct 



pool with "King ('off 



fish 



's on ! This one 



'^r, and at seve 



t^c. and then wi 
" o'clock another 



13 



s'mpiy tugs; he keeps a steady 



164 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XI 



pull on all the time, and I do the same by him, and take 
care to give hnn no rest, but wind him up every time he 
attempts to lie (juiet; once he jumps, and they say he is 
a largo one. This game goes on fur some time, and 
tiien my friend ihmks he will take me down the rapids. 
I am still standing in the ca:;oe, but keeping firm by 
pressing my knees against the bar across it. We went 
down half a mile hand-in-hand like this, and I began to 
feel that it was a question which of us would be ex- 
hausted first. A salmon-rod with a fish at the end of it 
is no joke ! I began " to wish he were dead," and to say 
to my.self that I never would go through such an anxiety 
again, for the fish is never safe till he is in the boat. 
At last we gaffed him, brought him safely to his death, 
weighed him, and found him twenty-six pounds— the 
largest caught here this year: so I am very p.-oudof my 
success. The nameless pool is now the " Countess Pool." 
Saturday, .ft/i.—\ wet morning again. We packed up, 
and went down in canoes towards the Dnad, fishing on 
the way. The salmon would not rise, and we had only 
three to show at the end of a long day. We left oyr 
boats in the evening, and drove to Gaspe, where we got 
on board the DruU, after saying farewell to our fisher- 
men, etc. 

We meant to start at once, but there was a fog out- 
side, and we did not get off till foui in the morning. 

Tuesday, yth.~K fog,— and the Druid ai a standstill 
all yesterday, ve not knowing where we were till three 
oVlo( k, when the mist rolled away suddenly. We anch- 
ored at night about fifteen miles from 'Fadousac, and 
came in there early this morning. The children were 
looking out for us, and Archie went ashore to fetch Nelly 
and Terence for breakfast, and to show off his steering. 

We landed after breakfast, and found Hermie and 
Basil with outstretched arms at the top of the stair.s, wait- 



JULY 1874 



THE SAGUEXAY. 



165 



everywhere. '"'^"' ''"^' ^'•'^vls al,„ut 

/'W'/</f, /(///.—After hrP'.K- . 

and Nelly-^ancl starte.l n , ^'''^\-'^^"-^''-". o'Tselves. 
o'clock we stopped to fish •^^'^^"^nay. At two 

and we were ni; :l;; ::i:::,^;''-. '- the w„,d rose. 

'ove,;:::::tr;s::;.::;;;:j--^-"^sawa.ost 

i>^eous masses of purple 'd M ^"'"'-' '^'"'^ '"'" ^-- 
Jfrounds. This ar„! of he •'''"'' ^^"'' ^^'^^ l^ack- 
Sreat Canadian sights- i V "' '' ":"^''^''-''-^'d one of the 
water is very deep'ri.h't p ^ ' ^ '^ "; ^'"' ^-■'^^. •''-' the 
a" the san.e Ik .ht wj' "''^; ^"' ^'-' ''■''-»- 
I'herearetwoenormn. """'"^'''-^^ rno„otonous. 

tliem. and we hope to see them i . "" ''" '"'* ''"'^'^^d 

r>. and Coh!; J'h;;^ : ^^;;"f--^ - Haha «ay. and 

-'--fishin, in^s^^drr^^r^irrr'^^'^ 

'-ved later, and found that th "■sk;^ h- m' f^' '"'" 
•^Port. AVe were able to watc t ^ a j '•'" ''^■"''^' 
most excitini? and terrlM. n. ''' ''*''' ^^»"»e 

hooked a saLon ,1 TT T ^" '"'•"^'^^" ' ^>- 
very stron, and L ^ .^r ft"t ''" ""^^"" ^"^^^ 
an hour he insisted un'on ''^''' '''^^^^'^ '""re than half 

on .reat wadi ^ k 7"'"^^k''"" ^'"' "'"''^- '>• "-• 
'^'^•d thro„,.h he '' '"'' '^""'^' «"'• -»n "r st.nn- 

the foot of'^ne r p d H r"'; ""^'' ^''""^ «^— • At 

^^^-nwerei:::!t^;,r^f:;\:^';^^'^-^^ 



whHwri;,;::jrr:;:;:i': -v-^-'a;h at 



a second 



he salmon and srnt h 



It. 



apid; then there 



"tn off down 
was another long pause, 



1 



i66 



MV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XI 



another attempt on the part of the gaffmen, the hook 
came out of his mouth, and he was gone I However, we 
bron-^ht home seven salmon, and were all very happy, 
and very hungry for dinner at nine o'clock. 

Branches were being planted all along the road, in 
honor of the Redman Catholic Archbishop's visit. He 
comes here once in five years. I), was able to present 
each of the priests with whom he was to stay with a 
salmon, which was very acceptable. The Comet, and a 
splendid Aurora, appeared for us to look at after dinner. 
In the night we start again. 

Sunday, i2th. — We reached Chicoutimi this morning. 
We sent a note ashore inviting ourselves to breakfast 
with the Trices, and when we were dressed found Mr. 
Price waiting with his carriages to take us to the 
house. The Prices are a happy family of four girls and 
six sons, all unmarried, and all living together. We 
found their house charming. As you enter the gate 
you see through the trees the beautiful blue water, with 
large ships upon it ; and the tide, when high, comes 
right up to the edge of the parapet. It is a delightful 
summer resilience. They always have a large party in 
the house, and have lovely rides and drives, and boating 
excursions for their guests. 

They gave us a good breakfast, which we ate rav- 
enously, enjoying all the country fare, and the wild 
.strawberries and cream! Afterwards we walked to a 
waterfall, and then returned to our steamer, and waited 
on board, while I), received an address. When we left 
we fired two guns as we passed the Prices' house, sa- 
luted with our flag, and exchanged pocket-handkerchief 
waves ! The weather is fine, and we are enjoying our 
sail immensely. • 

Before we left Tadousac, an Indian came to D. and 
said that he wanted io go to the Marguerite, a iittie way 



Jt!LY 1874 



MU/^A'AY JiAV. 



167 



up the Saguenay, and asked if he might go with us- D 

told him to go on board the DruiJ with his canoe, and 

there we found him comfortably installed ; but we passed 

the Marguerite and many other "stations," and at each 

he refused to get out; so it ended yesterday in our 

brmguig h.m back agaui. We were much amused at the 

Idea of h>s coming the trip w.th us, e.ijoying good fare, 

and returning home again. Jiut when we came to ex- 

amme h.m, it turned out to have been a misunderstand- 

mg: he wished to offer his services to D. as a fisherman 

h.nkmg he was going to the Marguerite, and once on 

board he was obliged to continue the voyage. 

In the afternoon we passed under the cliffs '• Trinity " 
and " Eternity.- and went quite close to them. Trinity 
r.ses straight out of the water ,,500 feet high, a straight 
wall of rock. I), fired at the cliff, and we threw stones 
without bemg able to hit it ; it looks so much neare.^ 
than It IS in reality. 

We reached Tadousac at nine, and Archie was on the 
sands waiting for us, Terence awake in bed, and the 
others asleep and invisible. 

Mo»day, rjth.-ln the evening we went on board the 
nnad hoping to sail ; but there was a V-r, ,vhich con- 
tinued all night, and which kept us at an. u..: 

Tuesday, i^f/i.-We could not see our house when we 
first got up, but the mist cleared away suddenly, and we 
immediately prepared to start. Then there was great 
waving of handkerchiefs from the balcony to the steam- 
er, and from the steamer to the family on shore. About 
two o clock we reached Afurray I?ay, and went ashore to 
see this rival .seaside place. We took a long drive in 
two carnages, D. and I leading the way. and the Fletch- 
ers and Lady Mary following. We had beautiful wcath- 
er. anil thnmrKif tu^ „i — _ • 



and thought the place quite lovflv, Th 



c ground 



seems to have been cut into terraces and mounds'by the 



1 68 



My CANADIAX JOUK'XAr.. 



c-n. XI 



action of water, and there are the St. Lawrence, the M 

;iins, and some very picturesq 



ray River, th 



ic mount 



ses to malce up the landscape. After d 



nearly three hours 



tiful aurora 



we dined on hoard, and 



and at twelv 



ur- 

ue 
riving for 
saw a beau- 



e w 



ourselves, on the m,,rning of 



e started agam, and found 



Wednesday, ijt/i, at St. A 



nne. We drove off early, m 



two g,gs, to .see some celebrated falls. The drive was 
n.ne miles, and we passed wood-carts almost by hun- 
dreds drawn by oxen and horses. The weather was 
fine but not clear, and we did not see the beautiful 
v.ews o the.r best advantage. At the end of the dr.ve 
we followed a woman who was to guide us to the Fall 
She brought us up to a pretty little one, which we de- 
cKled was scarcely worth all the trouble we had taken 
to see .t; but, happ.Iy, I had been told a great deal 
about the St. Anne Fall, and felt sure this co 'id not be 
the r.ght one. We questioned the lady, and as she ad- 
mitted that there were some " little - falls above we de 
ternMned to go on. The walk was tremendm.s-up 
s-.ch a hdl,m the bush, and with pouring rain coming 
down upon us. However, we struggled on, and were re- 
warded by fuubng ourselves suddenly in front of the 
J-alls. 1 he water was rushing from a great height down 
a narrow gorge, forming six great steps or waterfalls 
each one with a still pool at its base : so that there were 
SIX separate falls, and yet but one flow of water 

By the time we got back to our carriages we were 
very tired indeed, very wet, and very ready for our 
lunch, which we were to have in a cottage. 

The yacht's cook's mother-in-law lived on the road 
and he begged to be allowed to give us our lunch there' 
Nowell tells us that when he and the cook arrived they 
found the poor people busy with their summer cleaning- 
the man had two cans in his hand, and when the cook 



i 



JII.V 1874 



ST. AANE. 



169 



suddenly announced to him that the Covernor-General 
was coming to lunch with Inm, he dropped both his cans, 
fell back mto his chair, and shrieked "Jamais ' " 

When we arrived, we found a Hag at the gate and 
one on the house, and the man and his wife— he not 
sixty, she seventy-two, and just married to him, en sec- 
onJe /wr^— waiting to receive us. 

The first room of the cottage was a big kitchen, with 
a good cooking-stove; and the room behind was also 
very large and very clean. In three corners were beds 
surrounded by chmtz curtains hung from the ceiling' 
I here was a large stove, some chests for clothes, and a 
cupboard with glass door containing china. A table in 
the middle of the room was spread for lunch. 

The old lady talked to me, and seemed much amused 
at our havmg so many people to wait upon us. The 
cook gave us an excellent meal, ending with wilo straw- 
berries, cream, and maple sugar ! We soon after said 
a warm f^^^rewell to our hosts, and drove back to "the 
wharf. We ought to have seen a church at St. Anne 
celebrated for miracles performed there, and in which 
about one hundred lame people have left their crutches- 
but we had not time to visit it. ' 

About eight in the evening we reached Quebec, and 
just as we landed the most awful shower I have ever 
seen came on, accompanied by thunder and lightninir 
I he streets were literally flowing with water, and every 
spout was spurting forth little waterfalls. 



p 



CHAPTER XII. 

ONTARIO AM) THE LAKES. 

IfW;/..v/,n., 2.V.-0ur mail arrived at Quebec yester- 
clay even.n^r, and as soon as we had read our letters we 
embarked on board the DruU, and bej-an our western 
tour. We arrived at Trois Rivieres, and the Mayor 
came on board at eight o'clock this morning and took 
us ashore, where we found awaiting us a magnificent 
array of firemen, some in helmets and plumes, and some 
in tuli Zouave costume. 

We drove to the Town Hall, a new and very large 
room for a town numbering only 9,000 inhabitants, and 
there we had an address in French, to which I) replied 
iM the same language; then we went on to the Roman 
tathol.c Cathedral, to a House of Providence, to the 
Ursul.ne (^.nvent. and to the English Church, at the 
same time seeing the town, which is very prettv with 
many grass corners, some fine trees, and a vorv'prctty 
square. All this we accomplished bv 9..I0 o'clock, when 
we returned to our steamer, and a' cannon announced 
tliat the (.overnor-C.enera! had gone. He soon after 
emerged from his cabin as an unofficial tourist, and we 
sarted Ml three carriages to see the Waterfall of the 
place; it was twenty-four miles off, and we had to be 
nack at 7.,^, so wc had no tmic to lose. When we got 
to It, we found a very pretty fall, though not, I think, 
qu.t- worth the jm.rney. Close to it there is a curiosity 
in the shape of an enormous hotel, buried in the bush, 



July 1874 



TOR OX TO. 



171 



whlh ' ,"^ ''^^ ''''' '" ''"'' "'"--"'' ^"J into 

«h.ch no mortal guest has ever steppod-the produce 

of some incomprehensible speculation. We rowed su 

miles of the wav hiri- in 1 • 1 , • ^'-^ ^'^ 

_ i"e waj Dack in a big, slow thing called a 

RiviOrcs ^""^ '"''' ""' ^-^^'-'-y^'S and returned to Trois 

a nne'nf T' "'"'" ""'' ^' ' ""'"^'" "^ >"""« ''-^^'^^ -"d 
for which th""r'\"^' ^vmptomsof an illumination. 

o<f^tarl>, .n order to reach Montreal at a particular 

/•////..</</,■, .V'/.-We traveled by train as far as 
Kingston, and thence by steamer 

we l^^'l 'f'r^'''' ' ^''"" "'^^^^ "" I^-'<e Ontario. 

guards of honor, etc., to meet us. but found only the 
hotel-keeper of the Queen's, who said our luggage was 
m our rooms (it had arrived by train the night before) 
He ushered us into carriages and drove us to his ho" 
d. where we found very comfortable rooms arranged 
for us. *' 

Colonel Cumberland, the provincial A. I) C having 
made all arrangements for us, we did not even know 
where we were to go, but it now turns out that he had 
engaged rooms for tis at the Rossin House; however 
a friend of the Queen's telegraphed to the propri- 
etor of that hotel, and he came to meet us, carried 
off our luggage, showed us into the Rossin House 
carnages, and drove to his own rival establishment 
Our steamer was in an hour earlier than it was ex- 
pected and Colonel Cumberland was walking up and 
down his veranda waiting for the proper time, and so 
missed us. 

I), received an addres. of ^.elcnme ffom ihe Town 
Council, and walked about to see the improvements 




"~r'*t*'^*^^-- . 



I 



172 



AfV CAXADIAxX JOURXAI.. 



en. XII 



in the town, and at five we had tea at the Lieutenant- 
Governor's. 

SitturJay, :?.5-///.— Archie joined us. Directly after 
breakfast we drove to the railway-station, accompanied 
by a ),aiard of honor, and there we found a very smart 
pih)t-enj;ine, ornamented with flowers and branches 
and flajrs; a second one, equally ;ray ; then a .sort of 
open carriajre, witli a canvas awnins;, with red pillars, 
and jrreen boujrhs twisted about, and bou(iuets in the 
lamp-stands; ne.xt this we had a very comfortable orili- 
nary railway carriage, with chairs and sofas, but when we 
passed stations we went into the open one, and .smiled 
sweetly. 

The first place we stopped at was called Newmarket; 
here we got out, and, mountinjr a stand, received two 
addres.ses. Then we jjot into carriajres, and drove 
throujrh the town, Dassing under four or five triumphal 
arches, to lay the foiiiuiation stone of a church. 

All the country had come into the town, and almost 
every house had decorations and people in the window.s. 
I), laid the stone, upon which " Straight forward " was 
cnjrraved, was given a silver trowel, and drove back to 
the train. 

The ne.xt ceremony was lunch at Allendale, in a very 
fine station on the borders of Lake Simcoe. It is the 
junction for Harrie, of which it has a lovely view; we 
went on there in the train, and passed under a fine krch 
close to the station at Harrie. to re(>eive addresses from 
the corporation, and one from the dergv of all denomi- 
nations in the place. There was a great crowd, and all 
the people we have seen to-day seem well-to-do; so 
well-dressed, and (lourishing-looking. 

I lere we left our smart train, and got into a " special " 
steamer, in which we had the most delightful voyage 
across Lake Simroe: the air deliciou«, and thr ^.-cnery 



CH. XII 

Lieutciiant- 

rectly after 
icconipanied 
i very smart 
d branclus 
n a sort of 
red pillars, 
nets in the 
irtahle ordi- 
•ut when we 
and smiled 

vewmarket; 
'ceived two 
and drove 
B triumphal 
ch. 

and almost 
e windows, 
ivard " was 
:c back to 

e, in a very 
It is the 
' view ; we 
a fine arch 
L'sses from 
II denomi- 
k'd, and all 
to-do ; so 

" special " 
Lil voyage 
»c scenery 



^'■^^' '^74 OKILUA. 



beautiful ; green, clear w 



'73 



a very distant shore. 'Ihc d 
was perfectif)n. 

About five we came t 



Iter, and wooded islands, and 



;iv war 



m, but this traveling 



the Narrow 



s, wh 



an( 



') a very curious place, called 
ere the steamer passes under two bridges, 



i through a grass cutting ; h 



HI each side, it is nece: 



aviii 



g only a foot to spare 



able to steer. Just bef 



sary to go very fast so as to I 



decorated 



with flags and fillfd 



)re we got here four st 



)e 



earners 



meet us, and I), and I stood out 

ami the people waved their handkerchiefs and'chee 
then 



we went in i)rocession through the N 



With people came out to 

on the bows and bowed, 

red : 



we came in sight of the hotel at which 



arrows. 



loon 



ing; It is built on a promontory, and 



we are now stav 



in the bush ; th 



fount 



e grounds are laid out with 



IS a sort of garde 



n 



:iins, and with summer-houses h 



water. Having got th 



I-ake Couchicl 

^\'e passed it, however, for th 

Oril 
tl 



rough the Narr 



grass, (lowers, 
iMging over the 



ows, we are now in 



'■"g, and this is the Couchiching Hotel. 



iia. Some Indians in can 



e moment, and went (»n t( 



H-ir nags were larger than their 1 

ept making furious gesticulations of wd 



oes came out to meet us 
'joats, and one man 



drawn saber 



come with a 



Oril 



five arches— i 



la gave us a great wel 



come 



there 



were four or 



mmense erections— one of them rather dif- 



ferent from the ordinarv i)att 



wasornam.'nted with wheat, and with tl 



pattern; it was castellated, and 



country, stuffed— a tl 



various recesses. Then there 
and good wishes, and the n 



cer on the top, birds, f 



te animals of the 



oxes, etc., in 



oes 



peared, having been inspired 1 



were all sorts of niott 
time of " Killyleagh " ap- 



lielfast 



•y an old shopman from 



This plj 



cc is on the edge of the settled 



on the outskirts of the gr.int now 
It is most flourishing. We d 



country, and 
't apart for emiKfants. 



rove through the town, and 



i 



it i 



ill 



in 



i;4 




^/K CANADIAX JOUNArAI. 



CH. XII 

received two addresses on -i cfn.wi • .t. 
mad., our way to the hr.tfl. ^leanicr, and 

We dmcd privately, and afterwards were ceremoni 

to bed. ''"'^ "'^^ "'^"^ gladly 

W,/v, ^rf//,._We went by steamer to church at Oril 

of it Tf u ' "- '^""'^' ^'^ ask for a conv 

an,, br„,,« u ,„.„e ..,„e prcy „„. 'nea,: , '1 „' i t' 
i red had been miserable since we 'irriv^,t i ■ 

There was a little regatta this morning, and in In 
<l'an canoe-race; I ,ave the winners of this 1 st he" 
prizes, and afterwards we stirtn,! in 
I-ak-e (:ou<:hichinr ""■ '''''"^" "^' 

calleci Kim' "'1? "! ''"''""' ''' '''' ''' ^"^'-' reserve 
i«ic *vtsieyan missionary read an ad- 



i hi 
if 



JULV 1874 



MUSKOKA LAKE. 



175 



d ess o wh.ch D. rephed that he was glad to hear that 
h.s ch.ldren were content, and that it was the intention 
and endeavor of the Oovernment to keep faith in every 
particular with the Indian subjects, in whom their j^reat 
Alcnher, the ()neen, took also a special interest, etc 
hen he presented the cha-f, iSenson, with a History of 
the Holy Land, illustrated, and we looked at the babies 
who were being carried about on a novel sort of cradle' 
It IS a flat board, on which the child lies; at the top of 
U there ,s a skeleton hood, which can be thrown back in 
the house, while out of doors it is raised, and has iien- 
era lly a shawl thrown over it. It is a most convenient 
cradle, as ,t can be set up against a wall, or hung up on 
a nail, or m a tree, the child being ,,uite safely tied into 
't. It also goes flat against the mother's back as she 
walks along. 

We looked at the plain little church, and went into 
one of the houses and distributed pipes and beads, and 
then said good-by. They sang " (W.d save the Ou en •' 
-n Indian. These are the Ojibbeway Indians. The mis- 
s'onary. his wife, and two nice children came with us to 
the ne.';t place- Washago. 

waJlunchin?. ' ''"'Tr' railway-station. hut there 
was unch m a car, an address, a guard of honor and a 
foundation stone of a church to be lai<i. After h! we 
J,-t into carriages to drive fourteen miles. We st "pi 
twice on the way-at Severn and at (Jravenhur !^'n 
received addresses. At each place where this .s ' 
makes a speech, instead of reading a formal reply When 
we left our carriages we got on to a steamer clvered w 
ags, and steamed along a lovely place, called Musko a 
Uav, into Muskoka Lake, and then through a most curi- 
ous, narrow river, in which we twisted and turne<l roui 1 

islands, and had only just room tn j., „.:J ' 

appeared to be going straight asho^candlh;::";::;,::^ 



i 



i;6 



iVr CAXADIAX JOURXAL. 



if) 



CH. XII 

«msWeri„g ,|,at oi>.|,,\," r *""■""" ""'"'"f'-lly, 

rciiiarka >ly neat ami linkl„.,i i , ""uses here are 

is almost emireVt' ■l;;;:;':'-'-'""'""'''' """ "-■ l>°P"la,i„„ 

When wc returned to the stcim,.r i i . 
w.th a very c:harn.in,. en.i^ra, , "' "' '"^^'^^'^^ 

r..> . and made u,, <l,eir ,„i,„|s ,., ct„,c I ^ro ', ' "" 

fine boys, and she was so merr „ , , h \ "'" 

rajreoiK Th,.^, a , . '"'^'^'^>' •'"<" •''<» nappy and cou- 

tin,", we IT "'T'-';'-'"*'^ '"•■ themselves, and are ,.et- 

I'l . As we passed throngh the lock between the two" 
i)- stepped ashore to soe-ik f,, fl,» <• ■ ^"' 

-ii-wed i„ ,.ea. has.J M "=,•": ';',';;; ; ;-• -" -» 



July 11574 



SI-.T7LF.RS. 



scenerv -.nri .V'""-"''"^ ^" ^^'" you particulars „f the 

up a f,rm, recfivos joo acres „f f„rest fr« >. 
drove a,.„„ ., .„„. ,,„„„ ,„ ^,„ ..^^^r.^Tlteirti:.': 

cf;'9-:;r;,: :::: ::;'rr: «.ri: 

TlK-i, we saw a Parisian jeweler-ll,e merries, nnn • 
He was lurned i„i„ a l,ar,|.w„rki„,, farmer an I 

boys Aga.n, we saw a Canadian and an L'^n sL,l 

-c, rock i,; la; ■ . ^' : .ret'r;..;,;!':''*-''' '"-^ '- 

.ha. ,.f an old soldier from Mea.h, Me and l,i we l" 
n...e eh.ldren, all hean.ifnily dressed in white fro" > 
as.e. an , n, ,l,e house, one wall was eovered : 
"ooks. I he man was lon.i in his praises of ,he eountrv 
and would advise everyl.„,l.v ■„ con.e here. The J fe 
of .h,s l,ne„f road is n,„eh more Ihieklv settled tha, we 

f-rr ■ I,:.::.'" '■"•-™'~.u.,o„arto';"it"i: 

I'inally. we arrive.l at I'arry Sonnil, where we h„l 
addresses and arches, and a ..sail " in a stean ",", 
wc went on board .he CNcora, our new home fur a fu,,: 



i 



178 



^fy CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XII 

She is a very large steamer, and was formerly a oele- 
braed blockade-runner known as the Letter V tl 
sh.- has stones of cabins built on her deck. We hav« 

:;Ld'r;;r'^-- — --^e. .rthda, so^;; 

Wednesday, ^^M._U'e left Parry Sound early in the 

Nine steamers came out to meet us, with flaL^s and 
passengers They turned, and followed us to the to n 
ere we had addresses, and arches, and a drive. Tu" 
■tie g,ris dressed as " Britannia - and " Canada " stood 
at the corners of the p, incipal arch 

wa>, and there was a great farewell, with cheering and 
shr.ekmg of engines, as we parted company ^ 

Our ne.xt destination was Owen Sound The id 
dresses and arches you may imagine. The feature «; 

ad post.lions, an outnder in uniform in front of us and 
about forty vehicles following us. We drove thrcngh 

Ihe country .s very beautiful; the finest trees we have 

:z::h:;f ' ^-^ ^^^^^^^^-^ --^ ^-^-^^^ ^^^ 

We returned on board for dinner, and during that 

r/,«,, ,/,,,., j„,/,._,ve went i„io Killarnc-y (.he Indru, 
name of eh.s ,lace signifies " here is a cl™ „e ■ t 
-.,l,.,l „,, a very narr.n, passage >„ reach it. Thi.. 
d,a,,s „re collected on ,l,e wl.arf, an.i r,re,l a 1 „ 
One of them „,ade a speech to I.,s Ex., «„pp,„g Tl^^ 



1! 



CH. XII 

rmerly a gcIo- 
•tter //. Now 
^•k. We have 
rthday, so he 

early in the 
ourselves off 

ith flags and 
to the town, 
tlrive. 'I' wo 
nada " stood 

)ut for some 
hcering and 

d. The ad- 
; feature of 
four horses 
it of us, and 
ve through 
a waterfall, 
es we have 
ike than is 

luring that 
a magniti- 
taking in 
en a letter 

tlie Indian 

'it'l "). and 

The In- 

a salute. 

ng at the 



jfi.v 1874 



MA AV TO { 7. /X IXDIA XS. 



179 



end of each sentence to have it translated into English • 
Us reply went through the same process. \Vc also' 
spoke to the women and looked at the church, and d,s- 
tnbuted knives, p.pes. tobacco, and l,eads. There was 
one funny old man with a drum, who to.,k to dancini: 
and smgmg before us. 

At one o'clock we came to another Indian settle- 
ment-Manitoulin. The Indians here seemed verv poor 
and the one who made the speech spoke much 'to this 
effect: MVe are glad to see you ; our wives and our 
chddren are glad to sec you. our father. We have come 
far to see you, and have brought our wives and our chil- 
dren to see you; and we arc hungry, for we have had 
nothmg to eat." I), ordered them a barrel of flour and 
a hundred-weight of pork. When he replies to the In- 
dians, they give a deep grunt at the end of each of his 
sentences, which has a most peculiar effect. 

They sometimes give me presents of their work 
which I immediately pay for. At this last place there 
are Kpiscopalian and Wesleyan missi<,naries ; and at Kil- 
larney we saw a Roman Catholic priest, who came in our 
steamer, greet his flock in a very affectionate manner 

Ihe evening was a little rough, but we stopped at 
Urucc s Mines for the night. 

Friday, j/.sA-At si.x in the morning we went ashore to 
see the copper-mines, which are not flourishing, though 
the ground ai>pears to be covere.i with the mineral, and 
we picked up a great many specimens. 

On our way to Sault Stc. Marie we passed through a 
very beautiful and curious place called the Devil's Cap 
I here are a number of islands, so close together that li 
.s impossible to see the way between them till you come 
straight opposite the channel, and then the view down 
each passage is very pretty. The one we passed thr-uurh 
seemed only just large enough to hold our great steamer 



It 



i8o 



^rV CAA-ADIAX JOURXAL. 



TH. XII 

'-i i- I 'he IT "' """"""" ^^•■""'-'" 

'" l;;:;'ts to see a Hu.lson's Day seflcme,,,. ' '" " 

wore d,ess,„g ,„eir ehil.hen's hair n,uch after He^^a 
ner „f he ,,,„„key,, in the Zoo. Those are ,l,e "owe 
class of liKJMns we have seen 

Wand"wh?dH"""" "■'■■ '?""" "■"■^'^Ivos off Miehipieo.en 
sand, .h„ I ,s supposed eo be very rich i„ a^-a, .,. |,„t 
all .hose on ,l,e surface have heon already picl'd ,p ' 

^^m) keeps the Li^^luiu.usc ^^■u■e me a good c.ne and -iko 
presented us with three splendui ir.n.t ' 

.J/W., ,V._.(),, „,,t stopping.phice was Nipigon 
AVe passed through some very pretty scenerv in .- 
to it lii,riw>-i I • ^ l'''-^^} sccner) in coming 

7 H "T.ons-shapecl lulls-and anchored 

ver wher "" ' 'f ""'"""" ^" "^ ■""'"" <>' '!> 
h ,, ,l,e s.ore and make purchases for o„ nshing 
„''";"-'■'"", '■'^■"-■'""•"'■-knives, blankets, tin plates 
n."Ss, lookms-slasses, .lies, e,c. There we;e a good 



AUG. 1874 



CAMp/.vc our. 



i8r 



many Indians sittinjr about and I) ,v, 1 .u 
one „r., „„„ «„„/, .„■„;.: ./ ^ 'T^' '" 
tl.".K »a, ,„ pack our ca„.,e,. We .^j „ ' l' I" ""' 
painted white uift, rr„; , , '*'"^^"\t-'- Ours was 

it .ot D. and 'Lt F, ;i r Arch- '1 ''''"' = "'' ^'^^ 
our blankets. I gga.e .r d t -nf n ""' ""'"'' ^"^^ ^" 

' '• '^'"« iv\f)o IS lookinc- after Arrlii^^ n . ■ 
W.lson (our guide), Mr. Dixon (Arch 's t , ' 7 "" 

canoe, we passed ..^^ T „ eri^rt:;:/" •'"'" ""^ 

made quite a respectable lake Ve ell "'■"."••''<^'> 

«-.>li a rapid rushing pas, it w„i, h , f P"'""'"'^- 

our canipi„j.,,l.,,.,. r *= "'""*>''" niittht he 

1114^111^ place , so we jrot ouf anri t k 

and very s„„„ la„de,l a ro.hI trout' Th, "^" '° "'*''• 
"'d. Ulien the rest of .7 '"^ '"ur-ouiicc 

•hat this was „:,";?L„S:; -- -;i>, .hoy told „s 
rapid and portage agat u . T "' '""' '" ""»» "« 

campingjound ittron e,an'"':\j'""^r'-^' 

a,nll.riir;:;,::.;;^::['\-,''^-"' '^"•■" »•■-'■ i- 

" oorner in it. Coi: ' Z^'u:T;""^f \" """ 
which comes out of hi, earplt h,j , I!"';' '"" "-"'■ 

and Lady Harriet All , u^' '' "'""■'' ''"'''^ '""■ 

„„, H_ ' narnet. All the other gentleman sVen i„ 
0"= large ntar.uee; and the men have three more tents! 



;i 




very hot, and I felt the sun rithor i " ""■''' 

who seemed very n ce Lop e s r '^°''"'■'- 

acrossthe..er.ias:n!;r:;an^;:;i;:;!:r::r' 

i:^Lh:;;;u\:.;:;:t:-7--ner--;;^: 

river to^^ethe H re T V"''" ""' '"^'^^ ^""" ^^e 
fished. On one " e o "n "" "'''" '^ ^"^'^^ ^"d 

end of his rod aJ-,,-1,- . '' '^ ^f^""" '^^ the 

Doctor a.::ti^i:r 'Ze'V^^;;'r" '-' --' ^^^ 

thensh(of which thee ar. ' ^'■""' ''''^^^"'^^ 

gorged with shad fl esTnd ..r""''"\""^ '"^^^'^'^•>' 
baits. Those we d .V V , '''"'" ^"^ ""'" ^'^''i^^te 

weight. The CO ,k h ""' ^'""^ ^"" ''-"^« 

up a f enlace tr ''"*''"' ''"' '"'"" '''"^'■^ '-^"'^ ^^'^^^ 
cellent dh^r i "'"r ^'^•/^-•''^'-^ - with an e.v- 

very cin^Sr ^n^rr^' "-rr'^ ""^-'-^ 
-si^read with fir-bon.l ' , . ""^ "^ ''^^ ^^^^^ was 

'i.'^;;y.can.t;:st^in;:t:;::;;"^"^^^^^--'- 

■ ed vard, the Doctor, and Captain 



% 



Al-C. 1874 



n 



PORTAGES. 



I S3 



^Vilson, went off to see I .ke V • '' ^ 

«'-^ty miles lo„^^ u^ the e • ''''^"*"' ^^''^''^^h is al„.„t 

w^^'ch w... s-nall. " '""''' '^ 'O" ihcr luck- 

ThursJav 6th T \ 

;-'^ a poru,e. and a::iv:d .u the V'"'' ''' ^'^^-' 
'"•■f <'"e j.st before lunch ''^V "'',""' "^' ''' '''""''- 
^-^i' appetites as wc all , , ; ,,''"' '''^^ "-- sec. 
cleared every p,ate 7-,u,s ,, ' "^^^ ravenous, and 
-i^-^'", everybody carrvin'onut"' '"''■' "^^ -^'-'^"^ 
gentlemen with great o'l "^^' "'"' ^^"'-* "^ the 

.^^''-•"we,ot\r;r;;T.f';;"'''"'-^- 

vva.t some ti.ne. as the m n h . ^"'''"'^'''^ '''' '''''^' ^^> 
canoes had to make tuoT "^' '" ""'"''y ^^er the 

into the canoes :!T^.^T ^' '^ ^^■'•^" ^ ^^>^ 
camped at the .^,,exa„^cCT ••":'?' "''^'^- ^^'^ 
you of before-a chirmin^ ^' ''''"'^'- ^ ^ave told 

ter than at the cnft^^rr^l' "/ '"' "^'^'"^ "" ^^ ^ 
-uld see Archie catci a ,ou "m ' ''"""^' '''^' >'-' 
ashore he hugs it m his arm. -i '" '"'''"' '^" ^^^^« '^ 
^he danger of losing it onTv hi ''""•' '" ^''""^- "''''^ 

-ftered greatly in^"" 'st f'T "" '"^'- ^'^ ->^'^ 
caught one tro.u, and then we f', '' ^"^ ^ --'^ 
at the camp-fire, and sk.pt "''' ''"•''^^'^'^ '^"'"^^'v^'^ 

Pot^i::d'%^;;[2kc:^^::^^;^;-' ^•;ts ^-^ ^^^^^^c, and 

^^<-' '-ad a p.casant v . ^'■''^ '" ^'^^' ^anoe. 

^oun. her beaut f:i:raC^7 ^'^^' ^'^"--. -^1 
^numphal arch at the ton of ! ^^'^ ^^ception, a 

^vreathsover all the doo ^ Id ! '""^^^r'""' ^"^ green 
'i^-^- We lunched dev It. ^'"'' ^'"""^ '^^^ ^-''^"^c- 
-ash after four nighu of ' '^ '""■ ^° ^ tremendous 
- little extra finery as a react; ^""^■""'' ""^' ^'•^^>'cd in 
Crauford,a lady who had ' n"' """' '" ''" "P"" ^^^«- 



Il'^ 






^'''eiih butt 



er. 



a jar of most del 



icious 



]:'■!■ 





i 

'1 

-■'It 




t 


^^^^^^eI ^' 


i 


^Hl 




HH!f 


i 



184 



Ji/y CAXADIAA' JOURXAL. 



CH. XII 



It 



th 



is six o'clock, and \vc ha 



c t'V 



ve just sailed awav ; and 



er-roiigh surface of I,akc Superior lies bef 



I), has been doing several portraits of Iiid 



ore us. 



ians. ']"he 
nes are curious, and we made the 



translations of their iiar 

a(;(|uanuance of a " Xaughtv little W 

who cries with Joy," and of •• 'l-he Cloud tl 



oinan," of "She 



Siiiur,i,iv, A't/t.~Vh 



lat is past, 
ere was a fog on the Lake, so 



remained at the entrance to it all ni-rht b 



we 



in th 



e ni( 



)rning, and arrived at Silver Islet in fo 



lit got off early 



hours, having to pass through a d 



»iir way there. The island itself 
nally seventy by eighty feet; but it has be 
increased fifty-seven times that 



ur or r e 

isagreeable swell on 

s a mere rock, origi- 



docks built all 



round it. 



en artificially 
size by breakwaters and 



gan to work the mines, but, jrett 



A Canadian 



company first be- 



sold them t 



o a 



n American com|)anv, wh 



getting into difiiculties, they 



'"«: a great deal of monev. Th 



kee| 



ping out the water, as the "Islet" onl 



above the level of the Lake. We 
mainland in a tug, and saw all that coul 



o are now mak- 

ere is great expense in 

y just rises 



out actually going down the 



went over from th( 



tl be seen with- 



lik> 



patterns in a sort of whit 



mine. The silv 



er is in fern- 



of the undortak 



talks of going honu- tl 



ing isa"Krew" fr 



quartz. The " Captaii 



oin County Down, and 



his mother in M 



lis year to put up a monument t 



Yo 



ingor Churchyard 



o 



u see. we are constantly meeting successful people 



fr(mi that renowned county 



We |)roceeded on 



Tape— high basalt 



our journey, and passing Thund 



me 



ic rocks, in |)la 



ler 



piece of scenery~g,,t into Thund 



at Prince Arthur's Land 



res very precijiitoiis, a 
er May. We landed 



(Icr a very hot sun. This i 
years old; it looked very pre 



injf, and received an add 



ress 



ex 



quite a new town— four 
tty, every house beinir 



corated with green, and a (p.antitv of Ha^s al 
pects to become a great city. I) 



us about. It 



went out for.'i ilr 



i 



Al-G, IS 74 



fXn/.IXs AT SUKBAXDOiVAX. 



185 



» » e asked suiiic irLMUl(H)..ti . r 

the deck and looked ■".'''""■-'"^"--^''■> 

youn,. „.en went to a d ; ":;;'''-^ •^^'''^^ "-' 
very much ' '""^ ''"J^*>^'^ tiicmselves 

"■7'; "i.cre „. „„„,,..„ j'i ' , '::;;;;;,"■;>: -"'- 

I >»<-ii,in smaller carrKiL'-cn U'.. -. . /• , 

■^a.u,.,«,, ...... „., fuu,,/:,;,,, ";,: „^: «'>■ ■;- ■7-. 

Stipend. ' ''"' ""'"■ aiimial 

They were more savatrp ffnn fi, . 
fore, and. thon,h n,os of',, 'I "^r"' "' "'"^ '^• 
they had some svmntom , '■"'''"" ••'"^'"-'«' 

Who sat ,.n the .'rmn /', ""''' '"" '"^'^J'-i"^-men. 

v"y much .„ ,„',.,„ ;■„';;,, "^ ""••;">'■ ■■■ «y 

pi|HS. knivc, „„,|, „, , „ VK^'-fK-,^ ""•111 vnlh t.,l>a,v„. 

•>' '..rch.baric, w.,ici, iu.,i,.;j.:: .;:,';' ""•'"•"" "•-''•- 

inside. ''^'^^'0 roomy and clean 



I: 

'I 



I 



1 86 



M Y CAN AD/ A X JO L'RXA I.. 



til. XII 



f' 



v'c tlu;n ^iA \n\.o a lar^c canoe, and were tugged 



al)oul the Slicbaiidowan I.ak 



wa 



y of 



e, a very i)lcasant and cool 



nio 



ving about, compared to tlie carriage. W 



er nine ; so we dined at 



did not get back to tlie sleeping-place, which we had 
passed on our way here, till aft 
once, and went early to bed. We slept in a cottage, and 
the lletchers in a tent. 

Tufsiiiiy, ////i._\Ve were again called at five, and 
found a wet morning— such a wet morning ! However, we 
iireakfasted, and, hoping for the best,dr( 
wagon for live miles to the borders of the K 
River, where we got intc 
I m 



)veinour sliak 



y 



imanisti(|wa 



canoes to paddle si.xtv miles. 
ly say here that the river is evidently lovely, and 
had the day been fine we should have enjoyed it im- 
mensely ; but the weather was perfectly awful, a thunder- 
shower lasting till one o'clock, which wetteil us to the 
skin long before that hour. 

During this downi)our we had to get out of the canoes 
eight times to make jiortages, and you may imagine how 
miserable we were walking through narrow path> 



s in 



dripping wooils, our clothes heavy with rain ! The worst 
bit of walk led to a magnificent waterfall, which was 
W(;ll worth seeing, even though we had to stumble over 
rocjts and trunks of trees, and in and out of pools of wa- 
ter, to get to it. It is 1 20 feel high, and very grand. 
At one we lunched, and the r.iiii (eased ; we lit a f 
and dried our cloaks, but of course could do iiothi 
to our boots or underclothing. A tlish of hot pota- 
toes brightened us up. and we got on pretty well till 
7..?o p. M., wlien we reached a place where a steamer w.is 
to meet us. We had been looking forward with 1 



ire, 



to this happy termination of our troubles; but wl 



got there, we found that tlie steamer had 



onging 
len we 



and had left ten minutes bi'fore I W 



given us up, 



e were in despair at 



the idea of a further ten miles' paddle, but the ca 



iioe 



AUG 1S71 



SAC IT STE. MARIE. 



187 



men bore it with great jjood-humor, and immediately 
started ulf to race, by way of enlivening the time, and it 
was very pretty to see our five canoes shooting through 
the water. Our patience was rewarded, and our misery 
was soon changed into joy, for some wise friend ..ent the 
steamer back ; and when we met her we were comforted 
by a cup of the l)est hot coffee I ever tasted. 

We had promised to visit an Indian Mission on our 
way, and so we did; but the children there had all gone 
to bed when wc arrived, and so we just peeped at their 
Iitt!t l.irk heads as they lay asleep. 

We reached the Chicvra about nine, and took off our 
damn things at once. I was rather ill in the night, but 
none of us caught cold or were really hurt by the wet- 
ting. 

Thursday, 13th.— Wt reached Sault Ste. Marie early 
this morning, having made a quick passage from Thun- 
der I5ay across the terrible lake. Captain Wilson, before 
giving up his post as guide, took us down the rapiils here 
which are very long and exciting; and then we bade fare- 
well t., him and to the Doctor. We have like.l them 
both very much, and they have been a great addition to 
our parly, so wc were sorry to sav good-bv. Dr King 
IS an Englishman, but has joined the United States \rmv 
Ue had a very pretty sail down Lake Huron, and ar- 
rived at Mackinaw late in the evening, anchoring in a 
little harbor which only just held us. 

/>/.%, I4th,~\ delightful voyage down I.akeMi.hl- 
Ran. 

Saturday, /J///.~This morning we came in sight of 
Chicago. A tug came off with our Consul (Mr War- 
wick) m full uniform, who told us all the arrangements 
that have been made for our reception. The weather in 
beautiful. 

We lunched early, and immediately after the Com- 



;l 



X\ 



ill 






1 88 



J/K CAXA/UAX JOCAW'AL. 



ki iwjji 



CH. XII 

mittee of Reception came on board. The President of 
the Committee is from Cuiiiuy Down (Mr. Dickson) and 
his wife was a Miss Reid, and was at Killyleagh the day 
of our marriage. He is very luippy here, andis pleased 
at being so well acquainted with us. Another member 
IS from Killmchy (more County Down). 

Wlien D. had si)oken to all the committee, «e ad- 
journal to the immense drawing-ro.mi of a gigantic hotel ■ 
there we were introduced to the Mayor, who made a 
si)eech, to which His Kx. replied; then to the I'lesident 
of the ]ioard of Trade, t(, the Presidents of the .St 
George, St. .Andrews, and the Caledonian Societies, who 
all mades peeches, which were all rei)lied to; also to the 
Governor of the State ; and 1 think there must have been 
more, but 1 can not remember them. Some unoflicial in- 
troductions followed, and then we got into the first of 
sixty barouc^hes to drive through the town. We saw the 
extent of the fire of ,871, and the wonderful wav in 
which the city has risen from its ashes; also the effects 
of a second enormous fire Inst July: streets, churches, 
etc.. all in ruins. 

What 1 think is really beautiful here, is a drive by 
the shores of T.ake Michigan : the water is a lovelv, deli- 
cate blue-green color, there is no land in sight, the beach 
IS charming, and the lake is covered with ships 'I'his 
drive forms part of a very pretty park, in which there 
are small lakes, zoological gardens, etc., and lots of peo- 
plo about, in carriages, and boats, sitting, walking and 
picnicking~the most Hyde Park-like thing I have'seen 
oil this continent. 

Wc next visited the Waterwork.s, which are enor- 
mous. 

We passed twice under the river through massive 
tunnels, and saw a number of very handsome new 
streets. 



Ave. 1874 



CHICAGO. 



1 are enor- 



realize 
s on 



189 

The Consul sent me some beautiful flowers and fruit 

dont attempt much description of Chicauo-a 

gUKe-book and statist.cs would be recjuired I Cn 

hardly be , eve I am here, and shall certa.nly not r 

Monday, of which one has always heard 

Mr I^.kson and his w.fe, the Consul an<i his sister 

Tr^r'li T ■ ?' "^' '" '^^^'"^"^ '^^ ^'- '^'-^ '^ 
the hotel where we are to stay-the " Palmer House - 

It IS a palace: marble staircases, bn.ad nass-urp« 
ha^uisomely carpeted, and furnished .JithcnLr^^^^ 
ofas and cluurs; chimney-pieces fron. Italv, in lof y 
00ms also beautifully furnished; pier Klas::s-eve y 
iuxury, n. fact. Kach bedroom opens into T sitt "' 
room, and off mine there is a bath-room with h t 'd 
CO d water la.d on. The bedroom has velvet-pile Lr s 
with Aubusson patterns, plain crimson curtains, and 
ca.rs such as I wish I ha.l in n.y drawing-room at 
Clandeboye. 

When we arrived we were presented to the manager 
were seated in a comfortable room, and were " elevated •' 
to our flat. The manager walked along and talked 
amicably to ns. Pointing out the sitting-room he said, 
Ih-sis the young gentlemen's room"; and then. lay. 
'n«: hold (,f I), s arm with both hand.s, added, " I don't 
know whether you are to be counted among them, my 

.SW,,r, /<<//,.-.Such a breakfast ! No wonder Ameri- 
cans despise our efforts in the way of hotels. lUing out 
"» the Dominion, we arrange<: to have our meals in the 
Pt.blic rooms, so we went into breakfast in an e.M.rmous 
hall, and sat at a small table. There were two smaller 
ro,,ms olf ,t. fined with table., and quantities of black 
waiters to attend upon the people, and a lengthy bill-of- 



\A 



* 'f 



If 



**¥¥«*MX»w««»,M 



190 



^/y CAXADIAX JOURNAL. 



CH. XII 



fare to select from. I „„„ ,,y t,,„ ,,„ ,,i 

crTf,','" f" h"' "'"'7'"'' "'"'^' "•''^- '?«» a„/„,„ ! 
try, dii or tne verv hf^tf -i.-.,) ;» 

, • ^ very Dtst, and It was amus nL-- to spp 

liow It was all managed. ^ 

I went to a church which was in mourning for a 
b.shop, and we had a curious sermon in his praise His 
'-i-s ry. h.s good manners, his beautiful Vre h " e 
graceful way .n which he could pav a co„>p,i„,en 'e 
were . . set before us with much gesticulation In i; 
P.te of a 1 that was odd in the description of him we 
ece.ved the .mpression of his having been a really ^Z 

wa '^d e'- ".' "" '"" '" church, and the singing 
was done by two men and two women 

Ihe manager of the Hotel has placed the most 
magnihcent flowers in my room "with hi« 
,„^.„t^.. ^ "'^'"' «"» his compu- 

that arinstTh'''^ '"' ""'^ "' "^ ^^'-^^""^'-'^ ''^''•--'y- 
inat against the American hotel system- -,n,l r »i, i 

their ladies dress well; they havtut^'^r^^^ 
knack of putting on things. We saw .Lme girls i 
Park with the commonest untrimmed harvest hats - d 
hey looked smart in them ; black or gray i Impost ' 
■rely worn, but the simplest materials'ar ad "and 
|>ut on in a successful way. ' ' 

All 'Ihi' r "■"°"'' "" "'" '"'" "-^ • •"•^- f" a little 
All the (.crman p„,.„lati„„ were out, sittin.r „„ ,,, 

«™s , r„w,„B ,n boats, eatin,. their dinners, and sL d 

fine elk M ,"""''' "' " ''""'"'"" °f »■•""■"» ■■ t»o 

tme elk, a small hon, two gri..ly boars, two buffaloes, 

The drive by the Lake was crowded with carriage. 



AUG. 1874 



THE PALMER HOUSE. 



191 



cocks'"' '" "° """'"■ ^"^' ''^5 n.en-scrvants, and ,8 
me joints are on hot n ates with fh»;r 

.- before ,,,e„. ; .,,„!,„,:,:: r :.•:",:'",;:,;:: 

he wall ; the first was, •■ N„ servant is ever tr, tell a ie"t 

::'::.i:era;:r^"*'''^"-"'"'-^^----''""^; 
.no:i?;:^--:srtrc'^tr7"-; 

caldrons for son,,, si. l,ro,li„, p,,^ f: ...f .f,™, 
one for mutton another for veal, etc., etc., and places ,,' 

cH,c.e h,„,,^,,,. ,-,--- 

rh';n".'i^[r:;:i:ir'' '"'" - ice.et,ph„ard"i„ ;h: 

,hJl'\"""""'""'" •■"' ^''^"'" '^'■"P'- »■•= also visited 
the l,ake.roon-., where excellent hread is mide h, 

;;;t'h:;::'''"-'-'-™'--«-::^::-:::; 

''laik vc vet. but ovpr\' I^o^» r .1 ■ 

ffeous Tl, • ■' "^ ^'''" ''""^^- ■'^ most ffor. 

Reous. I he bar-room is very lanre -mrl u. . 

twelve billiarcl.tal,les in it. Tl ev Inv; m . '" .'" 

I'cious lemonade there • nd l\ ? \ '"'"' ''"• 

' "''^ J"^< I'njov nt' it when 
a message came to .say the " Hoard of Trade " ^to w h 
I had not .ntendcd to go) did expert m..-/!.^' 
get on my bonnet at once. ' ~' " 



1 ■■ ■ 



N' 



If 



W*%<ls,«u,ia(,«ii. 



192 



vI/K CANADIAA' JOUKXAL. 



i! ■ ! 



CH. XII 

now address y„' ■■ ,:.:;;:.:" "'• *-'""""•' »■" 

^'.oouJus :u,,:;"i ::':;,;;''= '''"'"™-"<'« 

.l.e H',"d'''rr;',":""' '" ""'."'■^"'' ''"^'"'^ Ho.el, Where 

I'le Hoard of I rade jrave us luncheon 

ment be ter dnne, or with more taste. A ha.ul was 

s^a^ned ,n the passage, which played .n;ocir:: 
Q^een, and other music. The lunch was cold, with 
the exception of hot turtle soup and coffee 

1 l)e table was T-shapcd, and we sat at the top hav 
.no one opposite us. A row of black waite^st d 

bu ^'"^'"/T"- ^^'''^ ^-'^ white aprons 
black a.l-coat.s and white gloves, and looked so unny 

chl: ''."'•"'"" "'''^^" '^''^"^ crossed over their 
cheats; when a signal was given, they all marched in to 

St,>^varcr tI' '"^" r '^^'"'«^^' ^'"^' ^'-- ^^' t'- 
•I Ivr J [ ' •^■'^li-nery, into which a pig walks 

'»''^e at one end. and .omes out a ham at thn \L. Zl 



CH. XIT 

als conducted 
II room at the 
but what was 
the enormous 
with people ! 
them, and the 
silence, said : 
Canada will 
ite unawares, 
to speak at 
outside, and 
sinjr through 
; but he was 
-eived. 'I"he 
nd then the 
le presented 
)rm, and we 

iiotel, where 

n entertain- 

^ band was 

)d save the 

cold, with 

le top, hav- 
iters stood 
ite aprons, 
d so funny 
over their 
rched in to 

ove to the 
pig walks 
other, had 



AIG. 



1874 



just stopped work 



There 
I 



were yards full of 



THE SHOPS. 
^^ but it was fully explained 



njoyed the drive there, and if 



(■')ws waitin;;,r to be sold. 



»93 

to us. 



very long, the drive h 



it had not been so 



and even in my state of f, 



ome would have been deligh 



J was so 



surprised to fmd 



. . ightful, 

■'tigue It interested me much. 



"S Of broad carriage-drive, the edg 



""le miles of boulevards-tJ 



lat 



off, trees planted 



and parts fdled with fl 



on either side, parts of 



es beautifully finished 



villa? 



and 



streets, i 



owers. Then there are b 



n which each house I 



't park-like, 
't-*aiitiful 



of hiwn and garden. I had tl 
a money-making place, and d 
much 

place. 



las its own bit 



"k'ht of Chicago only 
'tl not expect to find 



spent on beautifying. I am delighied 



as 

so 



with it— th( 



I iiad 



an h 



to receive any people wh 



r^":!'.:^'" "":"■"■"'->" "™<i-sed 



man 



o might come t 



afier sent^ Lady Harriet and me bea 



for the occasion, and wh 
room the flowers were a b 



en we went into his d 



o see us. 'J'he 

utiful bouquets 

rawing. 



covered with bou,,uets, which . 
each lady as she came in • tl 



to 



over flowers 



'»'if"l sifflU. One table was 
were afterwards presented 



; tlie cliimncv-ni 



pieces, etc., all 



A number of pcopl 



among them. Murdoch bv nam;, h 
ago, and has " se 

since. He took t 

ing, and seems to be fl 



e came, another Killyleagh 



e only left t 



en nothing equal to it" (KiUvl 
'> printing, about which he k ' 



lourishing. 



^•h man 

en years 

agh) 

new noth- 



Tufsday, /cW,,_i). a„d th 



early to see the " V 



rairie, 



';i expedition with the Cons.d 
lops of the town 



e other gentlemen 

and I,ady Harriet and I 



drove off 



sh 



s sister-in-la 



went 
w <ner the 



The first we did 
amiable man showed 
It 



as Field c^' Lighter, wh 



us ev 



IS a very large general sh 



crything fn^n top to hot 



ere a most 



torn. 



- yy .«,^c ^reneral shop. GInvp<! nr«. »„ 
a musiin dress, vcrv m„rl, , ^""\es are To.f. a pair; 
' ^'^ '""^'^ trimmed with imitnfinn i 



mitation laci 



^1 



' i 



, ...nJgSJ'*^'- "-^-TOi-aJwtfc^' ", 



194 



AfV CAXADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XII 



£?,o ; and the making of a plain dress, ^6, which is n.,t 
cheap. 

Then we went to a china-shop (all came from Eng- 
and), and to a toy-shop, where I made a few purchases 
for my family. We also were shown a confectioner'', or 
"candy-shop," and we saw the picture painted in Emr. 
land, and sent by the "Graphic" as a memorial of the 
Chicago fire. 

Another sight was very curious. People here often 
keep their own money, instead of putting it into hanks 
and we visited the safes. There are small rooms, the 
walls of which are lined with pigeon-holes, each having 
a very strong door and lock of its own. Persons hire 
these boxes, have their own key.s, and sometimes go 
twenty or thirty times a day to use their money I adies 
also hire these safes for jewelry. The outside door 
weighs five tons. 

D. enjoyed his visit to the Prairie, or '< Perairer " e«» 
they call it here. He shot one " chid en "-a prkirie 
fowl; the others nothing; but they were only there a 
short time, and they saw the country, which was what 
they wanted. 

On their return we dined, and prepared for our de- 
parture. The hotel-keeper again presented us with bou- 
quets and enormous baskets of splendid fruit Mr 
Murdoch came to say good-by to his Killyleagh friends" 

^Ve traveled all night in a Pullman car, and slept 
very comfortably. 

_ Wahmday, /p///._We arrived at Detroit this morn- 
ing, which seems to be a very pretty town. I)., Fred 
Ward, and Colonel Fletcher went by steamer to Windsor 
and C hatham, but as they had to return here I gave up 
the expedition. At both places I), had verv warm recep- 
tions, and Colonel Fletcher tells me he made excellent 
speeches. 



AUG. 1874 



DETROIT AXD S.IRX/A. 



T^ady Harriet, Fred, and I. walked about t<, l,,ok in 
at shop.v,ndou.s. and at f.ve o'clock we crossed t e v r 
in a^steamer to meet I), at Windsor. 

^' e all returned toLrethcr -in,i ,.. 

"received- at Detro n '''' '"^'^'""^^'-^"^'y 

foot of a r.n. , ' """"'■ '^"'^n^'"' ^'^ the 

town 1 1 7;'"'" '''''' ^^"'"« ■^^^^'■.^^'>t ^'I' the 

town , It was crowded with neo|)le tlairs llvin, f,- 
of t!ie hnnsnc fU l"^' "'^K^ ii\in«: from most 

01 the houses, there were companies of United Sf.t 

troops. fire-en,n,es, police, a military l.an<l in tls^^et; 
and people sutm,. in all the windows. Ue Iro -e ,' 
process.on through a ,reat part of the tow, / "n" 

: L;" h^ t ""■"^' "^- ''•"^^"^' "^^'-^ '-e V 
tr"e ■ th T'^ "^' ''"^^^^" ^^•'^" '•-">'^' --VS of 

ro.^^ a;rr dX- : -;'-'-^ 

cessKjn reached completely ..oundlh^^-irtr,!;::; 
and the ta.l ,>f it meeting and passing, each ot 1 Ve 

retnrned to the Town-Hall. and' there'we ha a pee I 
f welcome from the '• ( ,rator - of the town, an<l ) ," , 
a very ,.K>a reply. Two other spee< hes foliowe 

express., te warmest friendsh.p to Kn,,and a: r.:! 
ada. I he lown-Hall was illuminated. After dinnr 
some sm^ers came and serenaded us 

T/unsJay, 2o//,.-.Th\s mornin;,^ at .S .0 wc l.ft l^„ 
;-t, and ,ettin, on hoard a nLt o;,^, ' , ^ ; ^ 
steamer went down the St. Clair River to Sarn.a 

Mr. Mackenzie, the Prin.e .Minister, who con,es from 
■'^ rn,a. was w,th us. and we had a pleasant journey thro I 
lovely scenery, and in beautiful weather ^ 

Mr. Mackenzie was evidently very an.xious that Sar- 
" a should d.st.njruish itself, and looke.I verv much 
pleased when four steamer.s, crammed with ;. i; ^ 
covered w,th fla.s and green boughs, came out to mTet 

The r.ver here joins Lake Huron, and is at this point 



^•1 



tg6 



MY CAXADIAX JOURNAL. 



CH. XII 



■; 



VH^ry „,,rr„w, Von Huron, an America,, town, being 

straijrlu opposite. ^^cmg 

When ue arrived at the wharf we found a pink-and- 
wh.te pavhon erected, ornamented with festoons of red 
wh.te, and bine; and close by it, on the one side a very' 
lar^^e stand, upon which hundreds of people were s.ttin^'- 
on the other side, two tents carpeted, and arranged fo; 
a reception. 1). as usual replied to two addresses, and 
hen no less than ten were read to him by chiefs of dif- 
ferent ndian tribes, to which he replied'in one speech 
hese Indians are more ciyili.ed and advanced than 
hose we have seen lately, and speak with horror of the 
"disgustinjr" war-dance. 

We went into the tents, and shook hands with every 
one who came by, and then we j,ot into carriages to 
dnye through the town. Sarnia (the ancient name of 
Guernsey) is a small place, but there was an immense 
crowd m It, people from the country, and a trainful fron 

The nrst arch we |,asse<l thrmigh had a picttire „f ,|,e 
Queen, .„ one s,de, anc, one of ,,,,,,, a, ,atn, „,,,,,; 
the othc. As we passe.l under the se,-ond a I ,r.re 
c eese wa. havered into the earria.e, as a pr e t A 
one house a h.tle stand was erected in ,|,e gartlen c, v 
ered w.th children, who cheorctl and wave.t flag ' , 
through t e town we receive.l the warntest wele.m.e. 

..e;!.",, 'h, "■'," """': ^ "•"""' '" ""'« "■ 'he 
steamer , the railway-statmn, over wliieh some verv 

comfortable bed,„,„„s were arranged for us. >Ve d ned 

at barnia in the evening. 

I'ri.hy .,..,y._We ventured on to Lake Hu,„n this 
".-rnrng ,„ a ,mall .steamer, and were punished ft^ o 
e,„er,ty. The sofas and cha,rs .lanced about the cabin 
the band rushed to the side, the reporters sat droof^^g 



CII. XII 

town, being 

a pink-and- 
oons of red, 
side, a very 
kere sitting; 
rran;4ed ior 
jresses, and 
liiefs of dif- 
one speech, 
a need tiian 
jrror of the 

with every 
arria^es to 
It name of 
n immense 
linful from 

ture of the 
: artist, on 
d. a large 
esent. At 
rden, cov- 
lags. AH 
I come, 
les in the 
ome very 
We dmed 
ptu dance 

uron this 
d for our 
the cabin, 
drooping 



Avn. 1874 



SAL7 -U JA-A'.?. 



197 



J 



upon the stairs, I lay on tlie floor, and we were all glad 
when at four o'ch.ck we landed at (loderich. It is a 
very prettily-situated town, on a high bluff, and after an 
address we mimediately drove round it, and to the house 
of our host, Mr. Cameron; and about live o'clock, some- 
what giddy, and not at all hungrv, we sat down to a 
great luncheon. W hen it was over, we again took to 
our carriages, and drove to the Town-Hall. It is built 
in the center of the Scjuare, and everv street in the town 
leads to it. Here we held a sort of reception, people 
passing by and shaking hands. Then we went on to see 
some salt-works. 

In searching for oil, they found salt, and salt of the 
best quality. Salt water is pumped up into shallow iron 
tanks, which are heated, so that the water evaoorates 
and leaves the whitest, most sparkling salt. Of course 
we had, before leaving these works, to stand over gla.sses 
of champagne, and 1). made a very successful speech to 
the guests assembled there. Back again to our house 
Dress instantly for dinner, and for the ball which comes 
after. Dinner is my greatest trial on these occasions, 
for I really can't be hungry so often in the day. 

After it we went to the ball. The Curling Rink was 
arranged for the occasion, and was verv pretty, and 
there were numbers of nice-looking girls.' Ileft "before 
supper, I), directly after, and the boys some time in the 
morning. On our way to the ball we saw some fire- 
works and a candle illumination in the town. 

Sadnday. 2M~\Ve had to breakfast at eight, and 
leaving our kind hosts, Mr. and Mrs. Cameron, go on 
oiir way. An hour after starting we stopped for " live 
minutes "at the railway-station of Mitchell, and heard 
and answered an address. 

The ne.xt stopping-place was Stratford, which town 
was promised "two hours." Here there was a guard 



198 



•'/)• CtX^tD/AX JOVRXAr.. 



CJI. xit 



niifi a band and 



crowds f)f |)C()ple, t 



nrivc sedately round the t 
l;ir«:e followinjr of 



wo addresses, and 



own with four ho 
('■arria;;rt.s. Wc went int 



copahan, a Roman Catholir, a I'resI 



rses, and a 
o an Kpis- 



f'van Church 



when 



so th 



lyterian, and a ^V 



we returned to the stat 



:it no one nii;Tht be jo 



es- 



•crnians. 



rented by some ( 
ment-room, and left 
a«:ain j^ot into our tram. 
In a short time 



W 



;il<Mis; and 
">ii an address was pre- 
l"<»ked into a refresh- 



everybody else at 1 



unch 



when we 



m 



ent. We were met by t 



we reached Herhn, a ( 



and by s( 
sashes, \vh( 
i'lK^ -Mi the h 



'irie horsenie 



K' usual number of 



uTman settle- 



preceded us into the t 



n wearinj,r ,ed, whit 



carnages, 



o 



e, and blue 
wn. with a band plav- 



itanis were out. 'J'he add 



""s;;s were decorated, and all the inhab 



awnm 



Mil 



to make h 
thmk it wa 



« in front of the Town-Ilal 



ress was presented und 



er an 



self hearil by a lar^r 



^""1 '>■ spoke so 



as 



:i very successful visit. A ( 



e part of the crowd, f 



club sanjr .< Die U'acht am Rl, 
C.ueljih was our last stat 



em " to us. 



• erman ^lee 



Sunday. Cuard of honor, band 



ion. and re,stin;r.piace fortl 



own 



Hall (f. 



for a drive, and I 



our o cl()( 



•k). 



two addresses, lunch 



our healths drunk. I) 



le 
in 



we stay. In the even in jr we d 



rame up to Mr. I.eman's I 



went 
louse, where 



see the illuminati 



rove to the I'own-IIall 



I) 



rawm«-room. which we 



ions, and to hold a fidl-d 



turn we had 



nt off very well, 



to 



ress sort of 



innry, for we mad 



i^npper; and this time we were real 



n our re- 



and (lid 



le mistakes about the h 



V ve 



ry 



ours to-dav, 



not eat when we mi^rht, and then could 



when we would. I have a most ch 



not 



ev 



erythiuH: so prettv and 



fuming' bedroom here 



lively and pleasant, but, not 1 
her mother docs the honors. 



nice, '!"he host 



ess IS very 
!)einjj very well at present, 



Sumh 



pretty church. V 



".'• •?.?'/.— We went to n I 



fiiffc. new, and rather 



''^^w''^ think how we ble»» the Sundavf 



M 



Ave. 1874 



BRAXTIORD. 



Mo,nh,y, 24th.~\\\ l)reakfastccl earlv.as I). I 



out at nine to drivf over 
other (luclph sijrlus. 1 
c:k 



199 

lad to he 



oVloek, when I joiiieil hiiii at the rail 



liad only a >liort ch.-,t 
on the wav 



a inoilel farm, and see some 

remained (|uiet until eleven 

wav-station. \\c 



mce to go, hut stopped three limes 



We first arrived at I'reslon. a ( 
anil heard an address read witl 
was presented with a native suit of clothes. (kIu came 



ierman settlement, 
1 jrreat emphasis, and I). 



ext.and our ohjeet here was to visit M 



Hom 

gets them adopted hy farmers or ij'laced 



iss Ma(:|)hersun' 



e.* She hrin^rs waifs and strays out to Canada. and 



lu're was an address at the stat 



as servants. 



drove olf with Miss Macpherson to her H 



ion. after which we 



oor. 



se 



orre. 'I'he 

and looked very well and 

oiti gentleman took us over his house to 

leii we }4.>t hack 



children were all at the d 
iiealthy. An 

•e a view he was very proud of, and tl 
to our train. 



W 



e visited Harrisburjr, hut w 



next day, so we only saw a fe 



ore not expected til! 



real stoppmjr-place, and there wc w 



w people. Hraiitford is our 



of honor, hoth foot and h 



crowd 



W 



orse, a band, and 



ore met hy <^KVAX(h 



e (Irov 



c to a S(|uare, where the addre 



a very j^^rcat 



ss was 



I)ifsented, and then to a school, where hundreds of 
children were arraiijL^ed round the 1 



and the mistress rciul an add 
make much reply, as we liad not k 
iind had only just time to carry out 



;iwn. 



They sang, 
ress ; hut I), could not 



nown of this visit, 

our projrramme. 

r was jrjven us for lunch at the hotel. () 



Half an hou 

rooms are most comfortable, the |)eopIc wl 



ur 



live in them liavinu furnisi>ed them for themsel 
"laving turned out for us. 
Lunch over, we started 



!io generally 



ves. 



and 



on new duties. I), t 



urned 



• Viiit' ante, |i|), 1, a. 






J,i 



200 



^fV CAXAD/AX jOilRXAr.. 



m 



f'H, Xtl 

tlic first soil ,.f a raihvav and I In, I •> , 

address Dn-scit.-.l t,. n, • ' "''''"''' *" f''^' 

••>,> •IIIU t\cnilLr; some -ir/Oi.... 

isdnli-i, "'i-J'^iiiii^. J), from Ills siHxrlu'^ 

'•■^ "-'il) Ixvnnnnjr „„„.e known to th.- .wmmI ' , , "^ 
rm'ive l,im better and better \s V ' ' ' '""' "'^"^ 
vcTv i.Ieasant "' ^'' ""' ^"^ ''^at is 

-Monn,,n;.;/,;;;rv;;;ri;;"' ""■ '''''''•''■'''-■' 

n-mcnts l,.f.,ro „„r early llr L ' l "'"V"" '"■ "'"" 
-Hl.hlc ,l„„„ ,,,,. f„,,, I, i I • :"■'" '" "''"'' '" 



Ve had thirteen mil 



us tu 



1' 



CH. XII 

of a yodiijr 
>lif(l to the 
n\n^ latlies, 
»y roiicern. 
[)ii|)ils were 
-•stiller. \\'^, 

■ wlidle (,{ 
turned out 
(k'C(jratc(l, 
'laved the 
• lip, and 
' spi'c'ches 
and they 
hI that is 

L' Senate, 
party of 

se yoiir- 
It it is to 
or three 
wiiic h to 
lit many 
luinied, 

ind, fol. 
'•isit the 
Nations 

< luirch 
service 
Queen 
'aptaiii 
iiilcs tu 



Air,. 1874 



77//-: .S7.V XAT/OXS. 



:oi 



irive, and at the entrance to tlie Reserve we found ar 



arch- 



TheSix Xations' Welcf.nie " o 



n one side, and on 



ions are yratitled ; conu' a^^ai 



n. 



the other, " Tlie Six Nat 

'I'here was another arch farther on, wl 

by Indian bands and Indian iieople ; most of them in 

I'! tin 



UMc we were met 



|)ean clotiies. l)iit a few willi featliers. etc. 'I'l 



le 



inter|)reter is a very clever, tine-iooi<in>,^ man, and he 
was l)eautifullv (h-csscd in well 



IIK 



1 t)reeches of dcersl< 



made, tii,dit-litfin.i; tunic 
in, witli silver ornaments; tlie 



sleeves were short, fniished otl with fr 



111^1'. 



and 



over 



the 



rest of the arm there was a lon;r jrauntiet of wampmn 
a sloiicliy black felt hat linisiied off his costume. Ik 
looked very maKmficcnt on Imrsi'liack. 



Close to the " ('((unc d ll< 
a ^^reat crowd of Indians, a 



>f old 



luse " was a third arch and 
monjf whom were .1 number 



warriors " «ot up" in paint, feathers, etc.; but 



these adornments are no lonj;er natural to them, and are 
only put on in our honor. We waited in the Council 
Chamber— a >(ood room, where several curiosities were 
laid out for inspection-^-and when ad was ready we 
liassed into an enormous arbor erected for the occasion, 
which was filled with In 



W 



dians and other spectators, 
e sat on a dais, and listened to an Indian speech, 



whi(-h was translated to His V. 



\., who replied in Mnj^lish, 



stoii|)m.Lj at the end of every sentence for the interpreter 
to |)ut it into Indian, The words of the lanyua^c are 
very lonjj, and the Indian sjnecli took twice as lony to 
deliver as the Knj^jlish one. 

When this was over, the old chiefs shook Innds with 
us, and there was a jrrcat rush of women, many of whom 
presented me with things. One pinned a little silver 
brooch into my dress. She was a verv liaiidsome-look- 
iiiK person, and wore a larye straw hat and a jjrcat cloak, 
underneath whi( h one saw cloth jraiters, worked in beads. 



Th 



e ncvt ceremony was a war-daiK e, Seve 



n mea 



.202 



M I 



li 



-''>'f./.\v//./^.Vyu6-^^-^^. 



Hf. xir 




*TI,cOV.rfoK«,p„per of Toronto. 



"iip'Uiicd it 
"fJians then 
tt^'-'i, and We 

«:''l.\ who 
;ed. 

'ays it has 

' Sfll.l- 

I •iiiKitf'iir 
Laiisc" the 
'"■ti.oriis, 
'>at, with 

to make 
e calves, 

mother, 

>red and 

■ nursed 

"H' Was 

'I'liat is 

to the 

whole 
>iit ex- 
tJinner. 
>•• He 
aiuln!, 

some 
th the 
•e tiie 
" etc., 

The 
:.aiul 
Hall. 



AUG. 1874 



WOODSTOCK. 



203 



wiurh went oft" very well. Hut 
we " work our passa;;e." 

W'tiluruiiiw 26tlt.~()'ii at 9 a. 
to Paris, where we wer 



vou se(i 



that. 



as I). 



savs. 



M. as usual. We dn.M 



c reeeived bv the .'^lav 



I)t'(iplc, and drove a mile and a half, 
the railwav-station. 



or and the 



at a fi 



'ot's pace, to 



r 



!ie town is prettily situated, and it tak 



from the ^ryi'sum m its neij,dil)orhoo(l, of whicl 
piaster of Paris. The station 



IS its name 
1 it makes 



rateii 



t one end of a scpiare was the |)latf 



cari)eted, covered in with tlajjs and I 
lands and bird-ea«;es, and all the t 
tl 

garlands. Addr 



as most heautifullv deco- 



orin, raised. 



\\\ 



"K with jrreeii ^'ar- 

t-'k'Kraph -posts down 

ic radway-sides twined with Krwn and joined with 



we sh(/( 



fsses, ot eourse, were read, ami thei 



)k liands with numbers of peoj 



with a woman who came fr 



and who seemed almost mad with excit 



>lc ; amon;,r others. 



ago, 



om C'laniieboye a year 



cment at seeinjj 
us. She asked to Imss D.'s hand, but he said, " I ,,,u!d 
not allow a lady to kiss my hand." •• Then mav I kiss 
voiir fare?" D. jr,,t ,,1,1 of this embarrass! 



)y saying, " Ladv Dufferin d 



stock 



tig position 
oes not allow that," Wood- 



was our ne.xt destination. 'Ihe address 



the station, and we d 



ro 



atuler. 



was at 
ve out to the place of .Mr. .Ale.\- 



senator, where a ^ri-'at piil)lic | 



)icnic was jriven 



in our honor. I), had to reply to an address from tl 



county, and to return thanks for I 



le 



lis own and for my 



lu-alth. whi( h were proposed seiiaratcly at luncl 
by a farmer, who did it rather well, refe 



1 ; mine 



rrinjf to William's 



speech on revisiting Holland, when he said that the we 
come would have been K^reater if " .NT.iry had l)een with 



mp." We met here a Soutl 



whom we had kno 

the three pretty Misses Ale.vander 



icrn Kfiitleman, Mr. Fea 



rn 



wn eleven years ago in Kngland ; and 



'l"hen on to Injrersoll. a small town wA\ .i.,,! 



pactly built, where we drcjve throuKh well-decorated 



'1 « 



Ml 



204 



AfV CAX.U)/AX JO CAW 



■IL. 



fii. .\tr 



streets, followed I 
Scliciol. I 



th 



iiuer.s(;ll jv 



'V ^^u.inls, firemen, aiui pconl 



ere was an areii made of elu 



Kreat clieese-iiiak 



l>c'»|'lt', to the 
'"« place, and 



>";,^"(•heese, the makin^Mif Canada!" \\ 



procession to a el 



ess of convertin;r 



'i"h(; Sund 



leese-factory, and 
new milk into cl 



eses, the motlo on it I 
e drove out it 



)e- 



saw the whole pro- 



eh 



'y milk has to be used for 1 



eese-makin-r it imist I 



\\e always feel jri^d wh 



'e (jiiite fresh 



'eese in five hours 
>iitter, as for the 



town, and at 6.30 to-d, 



en we approach our si 



l>een here t 



'y we jrot to I.,,|h1 



eepmj,'-. 



wo years before, but tl 



on. We had 



warm a reception as if this had I 
as almost dark when the 



It u 



iver, but the st 



addre 
reets were crowded, and 



ducted by all the people to M 
tlie;ratewasa beautiful, ill 
rnished with the prettiest 



le people gave us as 
)een our first visit. 

ss-ceremony was 
We Were con- 



'jor Walker's house. Ov 



fu 



iiminat 



ed arc h. 



I had 



ver 
a room 



f 



iiniiture I have ever se 



pecMnens(,f Canadian rnaph 



an( 



en. Mis. Walk 



very nice, and she jLjavc us a 



er IS a ( 



■erman. 



we were .so thankful to her 



quiet dinner, for which 



I), had t 



••^^•outtoa"conoert."and found that h( 



was expected to speak— for tl 



Thursday, 27th.~\\ 



'"■eakfast t( 



le ninth time to-day! 
-' were routed out directiv aft 



I'ark, 
we held 



«:o and open, and name, tl 



town 



and then we proceeded to the I 
■ a reception and ate lunch, i 



, and there were about one tl 



er 

ietoria 

'wn-Ilall. where 

t was jriven bv the 



room. D.'s health was drunk, and I., 
speech in reply, and we got off to th 



"'"sand people in the 



le made a very 



good 



an h 



th 



our we arrived at St. Th 



oina 



had a dri 



e usual reception b 



ve, and saw a 



:>iiothcr railway-station, wl 



and were taken l( 

weie introduced to heaps of peopi 

we were gelling int 



e train by 1.30. In 

«• I need not enter into 

usiness— arches, guards. We 

ooden railway-bridge, 



wonderful w 



. w lie re we 



o our carri;iir 



people; and then, just as 
-^^, .... Mau;f, hurror- 



en. xrr 

>ple, to the 
place, and 
^'J on it l)L'- 
'■"vc out ill 
whole pro- 
(Ive hours. 
;i-s for the 

' sleepinjT. 
Uc liatl 
rave us as 
■i'^it. 

iK'iiy was 
vere con- 
se. Over 
id a room 
an maple 
(leriiiaii, 
or wliich 

that he 

•y! ■ 

;ly after 
Victoria 
I, where 
1 by the 
e in the 
T tfood 
30. In 
tcr into 
s. We 

rre we 

just as 
Kjrror- 



AfG. 1874 



si.\rcoE. 



20: 



stricken, exclaimed: " I'.ut the Iinul 



and 



liuich. 



I), consentfd to run in for a 



1 I yon must come 
moment, and 



Kot thron-h three speeches. On the return to the car- 
nages '-olonel Fletcher says tiie Mayor was in despair— 
300 or 400 dollars' worth of lunch, and nobodv to "eat it. 
He had been there fiftv-six vear> 



(;overnor-(ieneral before, and 



never come l)ack. 



It w 



and never received 
said, " I know von wi 



11 



lon},a'd to eat some of th 



;is cpiite touchin^^ and f really 



e luncli. 



Sim 



coe is a very pretty rural to 



in an hour's time. It had mad 



wn, which we reached 



c i-reat 



ns — no less than nine arcl 



preparations for 



ics, ami everv iiouse stre, 



ous 



with fjajrs. and yards and yards of red and bl 
white stuffs, '{'he Courl-ll 
ran{,red with a covered |)latf 
dress was read. We went to st 



iminjif 



lie and 



e was very prettily ar- 
orm outside, wliere the ad- 



Campbell, at their charmint: littl 



:iy with .Mr. and Mr^ 



which we had to turn after dinner t 



c country-house, out of 



o see fireworks and 



Illuminations, and to be intro<luced to people on th< 
aforesaid platform. In the nij^du th 
caused, I fear, by these h 
both workeil hard till two in tl 



ere was a real fire. 



onors to us, and the Kreds 



iiul helj 



le iiiKht, carryinjT bucket; 



>iiijj to put out the names. When I), next morn- 



>ng expressed his re«:rets that 



dent should hav 

politely assured him that it 

would jrreatly improve the t 



such an unfortunat 



e acci- 



e (K-curred durinj,^ his visit, the May 



or 



•as a very good tiling and 



own. 



Fii(/iiy, j.SV//.— We drove t 



the schools at Sinicoe. Th 

Welland, we stopped for addresses f 



o Waterford, first visit 



and at four we got to St. Cat I 



ing 

ere, and at Dean's Corner and 

i(»m the counties. 



lerine s. 



It i 



ara, and is celebrated for mineral waters. '|"| 



s near Niag- 



ve 



ry pretty, houses and trees being mixed 



le town is 
everywhere, 
he arches here were of new patterns. One repre- 
sented a siiip with the yards manned, and a large boat, 



Tl 



i. ' \{ 






. m 



206 



I n 



"'^^-'■^''^^^■^Vy.v,,.,,,, 



1 Ji 



•^"•-'^•t. ". one place, a man '',""■'• ""'' ^^■''■"■'^s tl,e 

'^'•'''^^'-t arches to look t'' ^^^'"-> "" it. The 
-'■>• 'ar^e-headed tin nair •■' T^-'^'' -ottoes'^ 
^^'----•'-donen/h:;"/^^^'-''- '''-Koyr 
A Platfonn was erectec n r?' '''''^" '''"'^- '-vc'ly 

J^--. -d|,.,.,,t ' ''-Hdd,eofthen.Jj: 

/^^' ^I'ove slouly throinrl, "" "'^' ■'^^'-^''-'t. 

^^•'•/''^'t was ,.ven l.y the t',u, \ 1-'/ ^^^'^''^^^ ^ d,n- 

J-'^-N -'.ich ucre really ;;';V' ' ^" '" ''^'^ ^^e- 

^^'"'-'. and .reat l)<..u,uets n^ ^ ^' ''""^ •-»™« were 

:^;'-'-P'ay. Uh.i :,;;:'-^^";-a.ulles-.,n.^:S 

;•;;'-. ^-vlhaveha, :;^;f: '7'^'— ptio„ 
.^ I'ave only ^iy^„ "nte all this at once so 

;"^- -''"'J of all the" k n h^,,; ''"^^' ^-^"^-"^ of all ourdo- 

^- -•- the short-ha " rpo;7e:"r '"'' ^^'^■^--^"-- ; 

^':^'^"" "P ^vith the description St '' ''''''^" ""^''^'^' to 

■^"•' ."'"-^^ for,n-ve nie. ' ''"^>' ^'"*>^''t to write, so 

"■-l-re vv.vfr,,,,, s,, (■;,„, ,;■'."" '"« I'"" in the ,rai, 
°" "'«■= pier.,, ,l,e,„" ; '^'""T "''"' "' " '"'i "K 



t'l. Xll 

''• One was 

nl across tlie 
'ently sittiii^r 
—^iliylea^rj, 
on it. 'j-|,^. 

"lottoes in 

■^'le Royal 
lU'te lovely. 
'''<i niarket- 

^reen and 

rcet. 

"i -'Schools, 
'Pt-'ti a din- 
to the fire- 
rnis were 
" finished 
'■f^'-eption 
■ ^^"ce, so 
" our do- 
ry where ; 
liable to 
^vrite, so 

I Works, 

he train 

to see 

irown " 

X built, 
topped 
to let 
esting 
uchin- 
1 and 
ily it 




i|! 



II :f 



208 

and the weath 



^IfV C.iXAniA.V JOCj^x,ii_ 



CH. XII 



this part of the count 

Afoiula 
crossed 



er and chmate in summer are deiightf 



ul in 



rv, 



j/,»/._\Vc left Xiaj,rar, 



ake Ontario in th 



I "1 a steamer, and 



mau 



lie chiel excitement of this trip 



e most lovely weather. 



was 



.>lie was riishinjr t<j the wait 



caused by my 



parcel, when the steame 



r went off without h 



mg-room to fetch a 



in 



ran about the wharf gesticulat 

manner. \\\ pm back for 1 

>" the verge of hysterics. 1 kept .saf 



had had time to calm d 



er, and she 

g ill the most excited 

ler, and got her on board 

y away until she 



Hot 



the St 



el at 'I'oronto, and in th 



own. We went to the Queen 



reets with I). 



looked 



As w 



e w 



over his should 



"^* "*^' '"h snouitier, and salt 

to see you going quietly like th 



into conversat 



especially about ou 

1). 
was r 



">n with us respecti 



e evening I took a walk in 

ere walking along, a man 

It is (|uite pleasant 

It," and then entered 



said. 



r reception by the .\me 



'1,^^ our tour, and 



who 



ind Fred went to a theatre after d 
■ecognized, and received with cl 



ricans. 



inner, where D. 



were in the midst of 



leers. 'I'he act 



agine what th 



a tr 



e noi.se was about 



ors. 



^4f'c part, could not im- 



Toronto: Tuesday, S,-pt, 



•inb 



gntta, and lunched with a rille-club 



I.*/'.— I). looked at 



speech. I did noth 



Th 



a re- 



vith Mr. Howland. He h 



"ig until the evening, wh 



ere he made a 



tile dinner 



was a Southern g 



was rather long, it 



en we dined 
:is a nice house, and, althouiih 



was very pleasant. Tl 



wh 



> sat !)y me. and told 



eiicrai. with one leg and 



tinguished wom, 



me his wife 



lere 



one arm, 



dre 



'" '" the South, as she had 



was the most di 



11 under five years old— t 



seven chil- 



tiieni 

IVt'dnt'sday, ^,/._I). 

to give away the medal 

at the Club, and made (people" say) 



wo pairs of twins a 



mong 



went again to the regatta, and 
s won. In the ev 



Kood speech there, The hea 



ening he dined 
an exceedingly 



rers were quite enthusias- 



srrr. 1874 



If// 1 /BY. 



209 



t:c, and l)esidc.s continual cheers during the speech, they 
stood up and cheered tor fully live minutes after he had 
finished. 

In speaking of our tour, I), said; " Never has the head 
of any (iovernment passed through a land so rei)lete 
with contentment in the |)resent, so pregnant of promise 



in the future. I'roni th 



e northern forest bonier huuh 



whose primeval recesses are being pierced and indented 
by the rough-and-re.ldy cultivation of the free-grant 



settler, to the trim inclosiire ami 



wheat-laden townships 



that smile along the Lakes; from the orchards of Ni 
agara tf) the hur. nig-grounds of Nipigon ; in the wig- 
wam of the Indian, in the homestead of the farmer, in 

the workshop of the artisan, in the office of his emi)loyer 

everywhere have I learned 'hat the people are satisfied: 
satisfied with their own individual prospects, and with 
the prospects of their country; satisfied with their 
(lovernment, and with the institutions under which 
they, prosper; satisfied to be the subjects of the 
satisfied to be members of the Hritish F 



)ueen 



inpire. 



77iur.ufii\\ j(/.— Hitlierto we have bee 



lot. 



day we were very cold. It rained a great deal, and 
we had our first experience of this sort of t 



our in wet 



weather. 

When we began our journey again, Whitby was the 
first place we stopped at. Sold 
our heads .vhile the addi 
through," and an umbrell 



iers held a tarpaulin over 
ress and reply were l)eing "got 



us. 



I'hen 



a-covered crowd stood around 
we got into a carriage, and drove to a plat- 

reii 
ions, and there 



form in front of the High School. The poor child 

had taken great pains with their decorat 

were V. R.'s and I). 

the walls, and child 

rain. 



in every pane, and garlands on 
ren in white standing out in the 



Next we went to a college about to be opened, An 



2ro 



^^y CAXADIAX JOCRXAL. 



H ! 



117 



in 



arch at the entrance was verv nr<.ffiK. i 
'" P'"^. -"ite, and bh,e sto 2nd T^' .^'"'"" 

^-■".nga lovely clea.rat,.n-,f , " ' , " , T "' ''' 
"P"" them ! Th,s collej,^. is c.Ilc . ." '^^ '"^""^ 
^^■"1 the house was built ,s, ' '•^•f^^'^^ar Castle. - 

^^> Resold. ThereJ;:':,;r:r"^''^"r''"'^-^ 

tions in the drawing-roon, '''• ^'"'' P^^'-^^'^a- 

i^ownianvilie came next h„, .. 

heavily there that we hurried , * ■ ''"" ''""'■'•"^' '''' 

as quickly as possible. '""^'^ "'■■^■^" ^^'^''"esses 

At Port Hope the rain ceased linr -. ., 
drove up here I conceived .Will "'" ^''"^'•'•'•''^es 

vic'ed for us, and as" e , , '1' ''' '" ^'^^ ^"^^^ P- 

along I disliked them more • d f' T ""^""'"^-'-'^'y 

-turn to the station. tiis J "^ ' "^^^"^ "'" '''"^ 

town, which is vervnr., II V • '""''^' •'^eeing the 

n, and she was knocked do.n, a„.l killed „n I e " ! 

At five o'clock we reached Coburff. and Ind in -,,1 

dress nr twrv t «.u- i . '^ "^ "U aci- 

or two, I thmk— at the ToivnHall A I),,„i„„ 

room afterwards. The res, of the evening .oJen; 

to^.^^;, was „nempl„,ed. We are in a most ^ntfo'tTwe 



r^ 



'/,. 



CH. xir 



''"'H'. Children 
f' t'le top of it, 
L- sun had shone 

■'(icncc. hut had 
, and prcsenta- 

ain poured so 
iiree addresses 

■i I lie carriages 
le horses pro- 
tinconifortably 
It-' «-ct out and 
>e(l seeing the 
;ilso missed a 
the Fletchers' 
soine s])iritcd 
'St-', a crowd, 
1 f-'ict, all the 
made me ter- 
ions through 

tr " (iod save 

,^ on, a poor 
^■"-''1 tlv first 
"t he pulled 
"11 the spot, 
has not yet 

liad an ad- 
A Drawing- 
, wonderful 
-omfortahle 



SEPT. 1874 



^'V /A'O.V-.V/.V£, 



FrfW, 



'<n\ ^///.— We left the I 



by train for half an 1 
into a steamer. 



louse at 8 a. m.. and 



"""■ to Kice I.ak( 



211 



wi'nt 



wli 



ere we got 



R 



ice 



I,ak 



e IS verv 



cause of the wild 



pretty indeed, and 



add re 



Hast 



ss on the \va\ 



nee which grows there. \»'e 1 



IS so named he- 



lad 



one 



ing.> 



Th 



man, and told 



c reeve there 



IS w^ passetl through ;he lock at 



nohl 



lis he had been wait 



was a most 



amusing old 



eman to come and see h 



"ig tlftv v-ears f 



<»r a 



'J'h 



im. 



e final object of 



and we had t 



our expedition w 



I did 



o go a short wav 



'IS an iron mine 



not expect to care the 1 



"1 a train to reach it 



so many untidy, stony, barren pi 



cast about it. 



we h 



ave seen 



tliis o 



ne was really an interest 



We f 



ound ourselves at th 



|) laces called 
ing sight. 



or c 



;ivern (these Wf)rds are t 



c top of an cno 



mines; but 



rmous hole 



(le 



ep, and large in proport 



00 smal! for it), ,40 feet 



as tlav. Tl 



le m 



">". perfectly open, and liLdi 



low, and it was a sort of th 



en looked like imps as tl 



mg one sees 



mmiature, in a fairy play. The .sid 



ght 

ley worked i)e- 
presi nted, in 



IJiit, alas! the coal 



Wh 



is in the States. 



fs were walls of ii 



on 



en we returned to the ste 



tied to its side, covered 
—in which lunch was laid 
it, as we breakfasted 
The man 



lUl 



m with green— a (1 



er we found a barge 



and 



oating arbor 



\ er 



:igers of the m 



'•^^ 730, dnd it 



y glad we were of 



was now past 2. 



cans, and we were th 
General Fitzhugl 
our hosts; th 
Southerners. 



"i"s, steamers, etc., are A 



eir guests. Colonel C'hambI 
h. with their wives (two sisters) 



meri- 



is 



ey live in the hotel, and 



ind 
were 



are cluirmini 



There was great 



turn, as a bantpiet and a ball 



inxiety about the t 



beg 



inning [ had .said I 



were to f 



ime of our re- 
ollow. From the 



very severe sieges 

had refused when I found 



\vould not dine, and I withstood 
pon the subject ; but I was glad I 



we did not reach Cob 



iirg till 



im'- 



f' 



;ii, " 



I u 
\ III 

N 



212 



^fy CANADIAX JOURXAL. 



CH. XII 



7-30, after eleven hours' outing. We were met by a 
torchliKd.t procession, and as my carriage was drawn by 
HUM,, anti not In- wild horses, I enjoyed it. The Urcnien 
presented me with an enormous bouquet as I got out of 
the carriage. 

All tlie other ladies had to rush home to chx-ss, and 
I-ady Harriet ami I enjoyed a quiet tea. 

\Ve went down to look at the dinner-table, which was 
beautifully arranged (in the hotel). It was shaped K, 
represent the deck of a yacht, and two pillars which 
supported the ceiling of the room acted as masts the 
r'«kM'i«: l)fing proi)erly arranged from hem. There' w,s 
a tiller and a bowsprit-in fact, the idea was completely 
carried out, and in front of I ). stood a cake, <.n which 
was inscribed the word " Foam."* 

!).'s health was drunk, and the company were de- 
lijrhted with his reply, which brought all the guests to 
their feet. The dance was in the same room, and was 
very pretty and sue, ossful. I was at it for a short time. 
Satunhiy, j///._.\t our posts again at 9 ,\ m .\ ten- 
der farewell to Coburg, and a warm " How do you do > •' 
tt) Itellcville. 

The station was three quarters of a mile from the 
town, and we had a slow march all that wav. and all 
through the town to the pla.e where the addresses were 
read I hen out to a great institution for the deaf and 
dumb The building is on a fine site, and is most airy 
and cheerful. The pupils were collected in a large 
room, and on the wall, in green letters, was written 
Accept our silent welcome." Dr. Palmer, the hea.I of 
the institution, brought forward some untaught children 
just arrived, and showed us how he began to teach them 
so as to give them their first ideas, It was very inter- 



The name of the yacht in which Lord D. went to Iceland. 



to ilrcss, and 



ile from the 

ivay. ami all 

Ircsscs were 

lie deaf and 

s most airy 

in a larj^e 

i'as writtt'n, 

tlic lu-ad of 

[lit rhildrt'ii 

teach them 

very inter- 



sEPT. 1874 



k'lXGSTO.V. 



213 



est 



ing to see their expressions of dawninp compreh 



cn- 



sion. Dr. Pahiier then showed us other children in va- 
rious sta^a's. One little jjirl, who had just returned from 
the holidays, haviujr jrot a little rusty during her ab- 
sence, made the most curious faces of disgust with her- 
self when she made a mistake, and the most piteous sort 
of sound between a laugh and a cry. 

A deaf-and-dumb teacher next came forward to show 
us the sign-language, and in pantomime told us a story ; 
It was a wonderful piece of acting. He afterwards ( 



in 



th 



e s 



;ime way) told the story of Christ stilling thest 



orm 



and I don't think that the reading of the passage could 
be more impressive than the way in which he conveved 
the narrative to us by signs. 1 thought, when he 1 



that. 



H'gan, 



coming after the comic story, it might seem irrev^ 



erent ; but it had a most s( 
I). 



s s 



)lemn and reverential effect, 
peech was interpreted into signs as he spoke it, so 
we saw the method well. No word is spelled; every 
sentence is in signs. 'I'hey all "diil""(;od save the 
Queen " in this way before we left. 

This interesting entertainment made us unpunctual 
for the first time during our tour, and we had to run in 
and out of Nfiss Macpherson's Home, and to cut Napa- 
nee very short indeed, so as to get tt) Kingston at the 
right time— that is, about six ; and after the address we 
had to drive some way, and go in a steamer to Mr. '.'art- 
wright's, where we stay. 



1 felt 



very unready to go back to Kingston after 



dinner to hold a reception; but it had to be done, and 
through rain and lightning we returned there. 



There were a great many jieople in a brilliant 



room. 



and after we left the " young things " danced, but I have 
ni>t yet seen them to hear about it. I have forgotten to 
mention iliui brother Krcl left for England on the morn- 
ing of the 3d. 



U \ 



i! 



i 



2K 



^^y CAXADIAX joc/i 



VAL 



the 1) 



Su,i,f,iy^ d//i.-^K 



cir. xir 



cJer til 



'^'iitnning of tlic Th 



'"^'ston is pretfil 



t't-'cs here and 



'^usancl Island 



y situated, aliTK^st 



at 



the Th 



had 



"iisaiid Islands, tl 



restin^r is deii^ditfnl. 



and 



Sitting un- 



ivc had a I< 



a conijortabic st 



'> t"f weather be 



ively j 



people f(j||(,w 



vill 



"'^' us. When 



^'•""cr all to oursel 



ng b 



(Hirney thronirh 



fautifnl. W, 



t-', a hundred small 



**"(-' had a I; 



ly 



'■ow-buats c 



vt's, one full „f 
we -ame in si^lu „f ]{,,,,.,.. 



.'^i^l't. Uhen we land 



'"."••'"<' a /lag. and it 



aiiie to meet 



horses 
continual 



was 
^'<' we gut into a ca 



a ve 



I's; each 
ry pretty 



« sort have spoiled my 



t-'xperienees of th 



"erves, I got out. and 
lambs; th 



; these, however, had tl 



took- a lower p|.- 



"t>si's up against a (] 



"-' "lisfortune t 



^*i behind 



two 



really delighted to thin'k 



'«•. ai.d shied fearfully; so ] 



Mere I) 



mad 



tliat th 



a s 



C"""t of our recept 
" I)u 



Peech, in which h 



IS was my last driv 



o run (heir 



was 



nng th 



e SIX- weeks 



"'" 'i' di/Terent ,,lac 



save some ac- 



t'lat I have received 



'»>' tour ha 



es, and said 



twenty addresse 



something lik 



_s occujiied. J belie 



ve 



<^f content 



Ncverj one of which I 



f «"'e lumdred and 



fi 



rst t(. last 



'"^•"^ '".valty. and kind 
"o harsh, d 



"eathed a spirit 



ness. J„ f, 



'« "'arred the jubilant 



ilut the d 



esjxmding, or discord 



rom 



^'"iiKTatuIati 



ored 



iiave n 



^'"""":^'--'tions with which 



'US of th 



let, f 

"It note 

e nation. 



It would I 



of bt 



en coM/iiied t 



v^'t' have been h 



on- 



th 



'e' nnpossible to descril 



e variety of ,he t 



;> '"ere vocal greeting 



tered 



'e* cither the beaut 



graceful and 



"" either hand al 



tapest 



I>ii-tuies(|ued 



ni'mphal emblems which I, 
■ ""*-' ""'■ way. In add 



ITS. 



V or 



ave glit. 
ition to the 



'■y. '"'(I |)rismat 



t" window, with whici 



:^"'«"-^" i'"is of evergreens. (1 



';■ '■•'"•'pics of color fr 



passed uiid 



h !h 



Restive 
of sal 



er a number of || 



e towns Were 



arches, '/'h 



'e most ingen 



'"11 window 
^'ay. we have 



f. an arch of whec! 



ere was an arch of eh 



'"US and sug- 



^r atj arch of hard 



eeses, an arch 



ware, stoves, 



SEPT. 1874 HOME AGAIX AT OTTAWA 

and pots and pans, an arch of sofas cl 



215 



hold furniture, an 



th 



leir picturfs(|iie costumt;: 



arch of ladders, ladt-n with fl 



(lairs, and housc- 



rcnicn in 



of boats ; a Frcc-trad 



, an arch of carria),a's, an arch 



arch of children, and last of all 



<i arch, a Protect 



lonists' arch, an 



but 



rather a celestial rainb 



an arch—no, not an arch. 



o\v 



Indeed, the heavens themselves drc 



)f lov 



cly youn,i,r ladit-^ 



infrecjuently a nia),nc ch 



•ppcil fatness, for not 



descend into our car 

has l)een nearly sniotherc^d !)eneath tl 

ranied down upon her, f 

with tlower.-- 



icese or other comestibles wo'ild 
riage. As f,,r F.adv Duff 



erm. 



sne 



ic nose;;avs which 



or our i)ath has been st 



rewn 



U'e had 



a recepti(; 



returned to the ira 
where there was a char 
did not jjo f-irther than tl _ . 
the same way at ( arleton I'l 
speech. Two Arinisters, Nf. T 



llie \'ict 



oria Flail, and tl 



len 



met us at Smith's I'al 
eame to the station, 



''i. V».c stopped at Smith's l-'allj, 

'liin;r li(([^. reception, tliou;,di we 

^ic station. \Vc also stopped in 

" ;icc, and D. made his last 

■I'tellier and \\. Fonrnier 



"kI at Ottawa all the Minist 



rhey arc all pleaseil with tl 



cess of the tour, and delii,rhted with the 'I 



ers 



le suc- 



A n 



oronto speech. 



ne fi:nard of honor met us at Ottawa. The C 



ernor-Generars guards looked splendid, and 
t olonel was satisfied. 



lOV- 



even our 



hot 
the 



\\ 



ofii 



e Jiavc a si«h of relief when wo ^oi home. The 
|e looked so nice: a cheerful little fire (merely for 
l""k of the thin^r) in the draw 
ft" jrrown, and with a fine ^lass sid 



room re-papered and new 



rawintj-room; Fred's 
I' to it ; my bed- 



•<'arpeted, and lf)okinK' so larjr,- 



after all the vat 

quiet so charm 

train in the m 

dress, of not havinjr to visit three or four towns befo.. 
^^e^rotobH auaiti.andof having "got through" with 
flying colors— delightful! 



K'l's rooms and cabins I have slept in ; the 
Ilk', and the idea of not having to catch a 
">'ning, of not having to repiv to an a.I- 



2l6 



^ry C^XAD/.^X JOi-A'X.,/.. 



en. xir 

land tV'duulL'^uKl wf '' ''^"^'7^'-'"^' ^""'""el Cu.nber- 
time. ' "'' ^' "^"ifratulated each other all the 

•'^f) ended our tour nf ■«, u- , 

fciuu 01 a rest now. 



ill 



:i 



I 



CHAPTER XIII. 



WINTKR AND SI'kiM;, 1874-75. 

Otta-.'ii: TufsJav, S,-/<t,- »„'><;■ /,-//,,._ We f,penrd the 
Dominion Ritlc Match, anil I (ircdfiic first shot, and am 
said to have made a I)uirs-eve-which some people 
won't believe, in spite of my havin^r received an en- 
graved silver tablet in commemoration of the event ! 

S,i//,n/,iy, 0</,>/>rrj,/.—l). went out hiinlinjr. 'phey 
iKid a very good drag f„r ..bout twenty minutes, and 
lii"n a bagged fox was let loose; but he sat (piietly 
looking at the hunt, and refused to stir The man neat 
gave him a kick, upon which he ran at him. and after 
him with open mouth ; and at last he bolted ii,t„ a wood 
and .so was altogether a faibire. 

S<,/un/av, fo//,.~\\\' have received invitations from 
New York : one to I)., from some of the principal men 
there, inviting him to dinner on M..ndav, igth ; and one 
from Mr.s. Wil.on, asking if she might issue invitations 
to meet me on the same afternoon. 

Aro„<An, /j//r-We set off on our journ.-v to Nt-w 
York, leaving about tc 1 in the morning and' traveling 
all day and all night till we got to our destination th,' 
next morning. 

nc-s</uy, /^7///._\Vhen we arrived the town looke.l 
gay and bright— so many creepers and trees, and bits . f 
gardens and lawns : but tin. day wan dull and cold. We 
had visits from some people, made some engagements 



1; 



I! I 



218 



^"'' '""'^ 'I ffoou walk do 



^/KC./AWZ>/^^y^^^,^,^^ 



cir. xnr 



sent us a box f, 



and 

wliicli 



'"■ " -Madame Ari;^ot 



t-'nj<)>'ed it much. \\ 



'« comfortable, b 



'-' are at the IJre 



way. A[r. j, 
'<> which we 



'";-' fire are $,8.50 a d 



• ""t very dear. (> 



h)d;,r 



I) 



l"^ ^^'i" '>e ($5) /-r a .1 



y. arid the servants' b 



uncan 
went, 

'OfTt IIou.se, 
'^r rooms and 



'""^T is made di 
•' l>nce attached to'eaci 



'»y eacli. 



eat in 
and that 
more " will 



:'.i,^reeable to me by tl 



«: "ly soup, t(j know tl 
">y potato cost; 



1 th 



'"S- I do not lik 



'oard and 



'"« the pric, 



«:<> d 



"wn as another orde 



''at my share of it is 
30 cents, and that 



'e wr»u Tiav- 

e, when 

eents, 

' some 



wi'^lies, but it mak 
than it usually is. 



■^ enables one to be 



on the bill. Sec 



t-'s that virt 



teonomical, if 



ll'fi///t's A 



some en^rajrenient 
littl 



/^//i.~Mv. s 



s ar 



I't-' even more disa^r 
;"" ^^'ard called, and I 



one 
reeable 



slioppni^r, wantin^r, 



parasol. I ^a 
with a little sili 



e made with him. / 
;imon,ir other th 
or a vei 



bel 



In tl 



found th 



'e afternoon I 



asked £6 f, 

^'r at the handle. 



■y ordinary black 



leva 
«t'nt to do a 

'".i,^S a dark 



one. 



St 



c- distances j 



•'^^'t ""t on a round of 



reet, which is mil 
and pitied himself 



'""lense. I |i.,(| 



to 



;;^J';vay. and I), started to walk 



''"' an opera-box <: 



^■^'ry much. In th 



visits, and 

8^0 to 74th 

there. 



'"^"ly HIas. 
order. The h 



'l"h 



'\'^'" "s, we took the Fletcl 



e evening:, liavin, 



t-' perform 



liers to 



wants some more boxes 
had was very open, and h 
i''ii«:lish one. 



""^e 'shne. thou«htoo! 



«^'-s were n,., of the I 



see 
atti 



and 



mo 



>arc-lookin;r. j^ 



ad 



none o 







'^AffKuAn; /f///,__'i'j, 



re shade. 'Pbe b 
f t'le privacy 



o.x we 
of an 



;«-"ed by Mr. stuart, ami 



is evenin,ir u-e went to 



tl)oronj-hly American 
riie (Jilded .\ 



were very much 



piece from Mark 'I 



a theatre 



l)y a 



amused 



The h 



waui's novel of 



v^uvk s«.,„c,i ;:s,,,,,;,ii; pu.",!,"';"- T' '""• '"" "'^ 



hero 



ine 



OCT. 1874 



NEW YORK. 



219 



shoots her false lover with a revolver, and the last act 
caricatured a Va-ikcc court of justice, with its appeal to 
the feelings of the jury, and its verdict of "Nut (Juilty," 
though the murder vvas completely proved. The prin- 
cipal actor waij excellent— Raymond by name— and the 
w(nnan was g(,od in the tragic parts, but looked much 
too wicked in her innocent days at the beginning of the 
play. 

Mr. Stuart told me he made /"zo.ooo a year by his 
theatre. He is getting up Sunday ccjncerts, to " rJlieve 
the loneliness (;f the Sabbath evening." 

Ladies go to theatres in bonnets, and were not very 
smart at the opera. 

I'rUay, i6th.—\ saw Sir Kdward 'I'hornt )n, who 
called, and at the apjiointed time I), and I started for 
(leneral Wilson's li..use in 74th Street. 1 was in a morn- 
nig gown and bonnet, but found my h.)stess in a low 
dress! Everyone else, however, was like myself, and 
only those took off their bonnets who (I suppose) looked 
best without them. I had to do duty, standing at the 
door all the time, and shaking hands with every one, for 
two hours. 

Mr. Sam Ward sent me a most lovely bouquet of 
pink and yellow rosebuds for this reception. 

Siitiiiiia\\ iytli.—-\Si: drove through Central Park to 
Jerome Park, where the races took place. We were in 
the jockey Club stand, opposite the Grand Stand, and 
the horses passed twice between the two, so that we saw 
both the beginning and the end of the race very well. 

Sir J'ldward Thornton dined with I), and me. and we 
to()k him to a theatre in which we had been given a box. 
We had not been there three minutes before we found it 
was such a piece which we could possibly not stay to 
see. Im;igi!,<j tlie history '>f the temptati'on and fail of 
man in burles(|ue upon the stage ! 



t 



:i!:i 



If 



220 



''/Kr./.v^z?/^.vy^r/^.v^/.. 



•S////(/, 



en. XIII 



',n\ 



t')-(iay: littlest- 



/S//L-~\Ve went t 



ivice and much 



'! ^" ""satisfactory church 



aiul met all the world d 



Am 



ericans are better d 



oin^r the 



serm 
sam 



""■ I walked I 



A; 



lome, 
' tTovvd, the 



think that th 



ressed than we are, l,„t I tl 



(-'V excel our best-dressed 



10 not 



appear at Ascot or (iood wood; and 



tlu 



people, such as 



■""■;'■ »" pretty. We Ji„„, „:, " , "^■J' ^":' ";". <" n.y 
verv ri,:l,. Hi, ,,.,.„,„ ^ . ."'; ■" "'^'enl, an ■ musl be 

«t was removed, the dish „f f, '^'^^^'^.'^^ - -'t each course 
'"•'^cdatfora^ni^ 1^^^^^^^ 

a-ithecoverreplacecl: ;;;,;t^:.r'- "'"'"'''^^' 
P-ture ,.dlery and the house. , i" ,d'\7r "s."" "" 
she seemed very simple and natur u " '^""'"■'- 

room m turn: a little in th. ,i "" ''''' '" ^'^»h 

-the library, a reJ::r;r^:-^^^^^ 

^V'ile in her bedroom, etc Th.. ."■''"""""' ^' "^^'^ 

••^'»« I ^"Ppose it is slept in but t d"' " '?' '^'■^^"^'^"'' 
were. ' ' "' '' ^"^'•'^ ""t look as if it 

There was a lady there who was just liL- 
t>onal ^ ankee on the staLa- She n '' ""''^*"- 

«he had told her husband she .0 1 '"""""•^■•'- '''-'^^ that 

f- hi-, as she meant o,;^^^^^^^ 

she could. Then she inf . • *^''"" ■'' 'P''^"'< '^'^ ^'ver 

f"lnKuinert.rhe td '"^T.^'''^'''->^J^^^ 
«'-e January, and th;;;^;:; ,:;;:■-- --ySund.^ 

which she had not been ill < sh "^^'asion upon 

'-/iomestictroubles.^;;;dh rs;;:",r;n?'r'^"^^'' 

policeman to turn her cook oMf \ u '' ^" ^^'^^ ^ 

got so far, a more ftshi , ''""''''• ^^''^^" ^he 

-i^;-pera..ton,e;t:n:;^;;-:';:r-''^-^-"'d 

^ eveninif I went to the opera 



CH. XIII 

iry chiirrh 
'keel hf)n]c, 
crowd, the 

I cio not 
e, such as 
not, to my 
•Stewart, a 

' imist he 
irble. Ill 
tliree. A 
<'lj course 
<"c, to be 
L' lielped, 

saw flic 
tcwart — 

in ea(h 
lort time 
1, a Httio 
cautiful, 

as if it 

I'onven- 
'•st, that 
n black 
as ever 
cheer- 
■>inulay 
n upon 

to tell 

«ct a 
en she 
would 

•aid a 
opera 



OCT. 1874 DRIVE TO "SLEEPY HOLLOW, 



221 



1: II 



\.ith Mrs. Stevens. It was " Ruv Hi 



is a^raiti. as 



Al- 



bani, who had just arrived, was too unwell to siiijr yet. 
C. Vznaga was the young lady of the party, and there 
was a stream of young men jiassing through all the tunc. 
No one seemed to dream of listening I 

I>. was dining with thirty gentlemen at Delinon- 
ico's ; the dmner went off well, and there were no 
speeches. 

Tuesday, 20th. — I), had a breakfast given to him by 
Mr. Sam Ward, which he liked immensely, and in the 
evening a dinner, which he also enjoyed. 

Thursday, 23d.— Wo. started off before nine in the 
morning to a railway-station, where we were met by Mr. 
Dudley Field, and went by train to Tarrytown. 

There a coach-and-four, driven by Mr. Dudley Field, 
Jr., awaited us. We were glad to see the country ; there 
were pretty villas all along, and a capital roail. The 
view ought to have been lovely, but a fog hung over the 
Hudson, and hid its opposite bank. We returned by 
road to Irvington, where we saw Washington Irving's 
"Sleepy Hollow," passed in front of Cyrus Field's house 
to see the view, and then stopjied at Dudley l'"ield*s, Jr., 
for lunch, or rather breakfast, for we had only had a cup 
of tea before* starting. Every one was very kind, and we 
enjoyed it very much ; then we drove back to the station 
and returned to New York. 

Friday, 2jd. — Another country day. This time we 
took the ferry, and went over to Orange Valley, where 
Mrs. Yznaga lives. She gave us Spanish and Cuban 
dishes; the first, "gumbo," a curious gelatinous soup, 
with oysters, chicken, sassafras-leaves, and red pepper 
in it. Then a dish with rice and tomatoes in the mid- 
dle, grilled chicken and fried bananas round ; then 
various sorts of light pastry, and chiK-ol.-itf' tn flrink. 
We returned about four o'clock. Our paity consist- 



1-'. Ul 






in 



222 



^rV CA.VADIAX JOURX.^L. 



e(i of Miss St 



Ilartc 
W 



evens, Madame 



van Hoffman 



ca XIII 
and Bret 



'^ dined with Mr 



and Mrs. J) 



'"id Mrs. M„rt 



"", and met Mi 



Gen 



era! 



'lavl 



:;;r'f ;,-''"- '<a..<ioipi. R 



.30, as wc were all 



or, and Consiiela ^ 



.oh 



mson. 



"s a very nice, prett 



goin;T()n („ f 



^"•'Sa. We dined at 



first 



act of "I 



Alban 



iicia. 



y dinner, and 



'"-' <'P«Ta. They gave 



we 



i, wh 



and 



)nly 



ni 



, who sang for th 



t-'iijoyed the rest 



well received, and 



e second time 1 



'>-sed the 
very niiieh. 



Stitiiri/u 



Mr. JJel 



T, 24th.~-\\ 



we are proud of h 



K're, was 



s ve 



gentleman wl 



'"ont's i)icture-ga!l 



^ went with .Mr. I) 



^•'■as a C.'anadiai 



Ty 



went with Mr. Hierstad 



1" '« rich, and coll 



'-''■y, and on to the h 



uncan to see 



oLise of a 



wards made a round of gall 



"• to see his 



ccts pictures. D. tl 



In th 



eries. 



pictures, and aft 



len 
er- 



V 



Vo 

lad 



e evening we saw "J 



i"iff -Man '• acted I 
iL's here call "a 1 



he R 



Smith 



ove 



'aw 



ly m 
25tfi.~\). had to lea 



y Mr. Montague, wl 



omance of a Poor 



lorn the young 



""le o'clock, .so we di„cd 



ve for \\ ashington hef 



peopi 



It am 



used 



quietly with som 



I'liner differed from 



's handsome and 



'""' '" "''•'^^■'•ve in what wav tl 
one we should give. ThnV 1 



l^iit their table was I 



comfortabi 



e, and they are 



ore 



e very nice 



licir 



louse 



ad absolu 



itely 



=»'"ge for the numi 



verv rich 



of ch 

^Ve had ovst 



nothingonit— Motabonb 



'er oT people, and 



"la, a candle, a bit of food 



"'". a (lower, a bit 
so it looked very bare. 



ers soup, fish, an ,v//M', cold be 



av- 



compliment to the Sund 
clotli was then taken off, and 
sert-table once ag 



ef— a 



■an( 



s a 



am. 



a hot pudding, 'n^ 
we sat at a mahogany des- 



M(>nt/,n\ 26t/i.---[) 



rived at si.v in th 



went to U'ashintrt 



to 
Th 



le morning, and w 



on, where he 



=' niMet sleep in his train-bed, wh 



's just settling do 



ar- 



or 



"ton had rome to meet h 



at once. Sir Edward 



nn. 



en he heard Sir E. 



.gave hini a 



so he had to jump 
Clip of tea, and took 



OCT. 1874 



THE XOA'MAL SCHOOL 



223 



him a walk, then breakfast, and then a drive to all the 
sights. He saw the President, wiu, was very civil and 
called upon him, and Mr. Fish, and then started for Balti- 
more, where he slept. 

Tiu-sdiiy, 2jt/i.~\). returned, and when he had had a 
cup of tea we paid a few visits in dilferent directions ; 
after dinner he attended a political meeting at Tammany 
Hall, which mterested him. 

Wt'diifSiiay, 2St/i.—\\\ the morning Mr. Cyrus Field 
came for us, and we went to see the Normal Sc'ho(jl. We 
sat upon a platform with the teachers, and at nine pre- 
cisely music struck up, and 1,200 girls marched m, and 
in about two and a half minutes were seated. Of course, 
this can only be done by the most perfect arrangement,' 
and is quite a military manoeuvre. A chapter in the' 
Bible was read, and a hymn sung. The President got 
up and said : " Young ladies, I present to you the Karl 
ol I )ufferin, C.overnor-deneral of Canada, and his Lady " ; 
and 1). said a few appropriate words. 'I'he President 
then said: ^' The young lailies of the First Section will 
repeat their quotations"; and one after another a num- 
ber of girls got up, and repeated something they had 
learned. This is a voluntary e.vercise, and is intended to 
give them confidence in speaking before a number of 
people. These girls are all being trained as teachers 
After this a chord was struck, and thev all rose, and to 
music marched to the various class-rooms. We followed 
to the e.xercise-rooms, where we saw a hundred or so do- 
ing gymnastics. Then we peeped in at chemistry, geol- 
ogy, drawuig, ind Latin classes. 

Our next visit was to a common school, and the 
children's department was very interesting. 'I'hcre were 
1.150 collected in one room, and thev marched in at a 
much slower pace than their elders, and with an air of 
solemnity that was most amusing. The second half of 



ij 






' 'I 

I \\ 

\ si 



224 



My CAA-AD/AX JOU/fXAL. 



en. xiii 



the room had the seats raised towirr! fK« . , 

Leads wc.,„ „„,;„;"; ,:::"; ,'"•■ t""'' "" ■•■5° 
•he bis b.,ys and ;■;?'"'•:,,::' T ""■ "■' ='» -" 

school in ,„.. „„, |,!;if;,i;,; ''"^ ■'" ^'S- ^'"Wren a. 
"fee, aiiu uicii 1 realized how w-mfin,, i u . 

of speed. ' " "'"■ varieties 

Wlien we reached „„r des.i„ation_tl,e Revere H„„ 
«„.„„-, ,es.ed,,n,.O.p,,,.,,n,is;aprj":n 

'M)|)ear to be very busy i.ui f.,II nf , '''' ^"* 

houses l„.,l: o,„. We visited Bunker's HatulHr' 1 
ColleRe. The Metnorial Hall l,„i|e , ' "''"■'"■'' 

'he fortner students who w re | e ' „'""n" ■■'■ "' 
where the vouno- m.„ a- , ' "'" '^ar, is 

saw one studel,?^ ' ■'""' '" ^■">' h--""ls<""e. We 

The, :; \,'';'r'^ ™7' PI-™ -d comfortable 

nice oid.f,;:hiL,;.u-\^ ::";;.;;" '"-^ "■"■ "- » 

^henHetoo.eo„.n.an:\:;';[l^::tir;;r;r'Th? 



,-l'^l 



CH. XIII 

back, and a 
-cJ the scene 
'S tlie 1,150 
vas clapping 
We also saw 

t'iiildren at 

'Jfhton last 
fetch him. 
i sat by me 
ting I had 
rst arrived 

)eds them- 

I'he engine 

"lore like 

1 varieties 

:re House, 
id took a 

the town. 
Vork, but 
vehicles. 
le "resi- 
blic gar- 
ly good 
Harvard 
mory of 
War, is 
ne. We 
fortable. 
im in a 
IS living 
y. The 



OCT. 1874 



BOSTON. 



225 



poet's study is a plainly-furnished room, with a large 
orange-tree standing in one window. He is a most 
charming -.n.K hnahle old nian ; he gave me one of 
his poems as a souvenir of my visit, and he invited 
D. to dine at the Club dinner to-morrow, so we re- 
main for that. Just as we were going out of the house 
Ills daughter Alice appeared, and he intro lu- rl her 
to us. 

We have our meals in the American fa-'ii-n u re, 
in a public room: there are numbers ot si..ill tai ies 
for ten people; sometimes we are alone, - r.K umes 
there are other people at our table; at ever) meal the 
first ceremony always is to place a glass of iced water 
before us. 

In the evening we w.ent to the Hoston Theatre— a 
fine one, with spacious entrance-hall. 'J'he theatre itself 
very large and beautifully decorated, finer than anv we' 
saw in New York. The piece was " Belle Lamar " i 
story of the War, and was very interesting and well'put 
upon the stage. Here they have a farce both before 
and after, while in New Vork there was only one piece 
given in each theatre. 

Saturday, 31st. — W^ drove this morning to Dor- 
chester Heights, and to see some more of the city, and 
at 2.30 I), went to his Club dinner. He has been very 
lucky to be here for it. It takes place onlv once a 
month, and he met at it Longfellow, Lowell, kmer.son, 
Dana, Dana, Jr., Holmes (the Autocrat of the Breakfast 
Table), etc. They have all promised him books as a 
remembrance of the occasion. 

I took a walk in the town, and in the evening D and 
I went to the Museum Theatre. It is not so fine as the 
Boston, but it is uncommon in one wav; you pass through 
a museum to it-statues, pictures. sUifTcd animals, etc. 
I he play was " Arkwrighfs Wife," bv Tom Tavlor-very 



Ml 



m 



226 



^fV ^■t-y--tD/AAr /oc^^y^t^ 



K'>'n\ iiulced. '/'he h 



cir. xui 



all tlif 



parts were well (llicd 



^Su,u/,iY, Noirmk 



eroi„e was p.e„ya„„ graceful, 



and 



we could )r^^^. 



•r ls/.—\\\. tried 



t'Tiicd out to be a I 



^1 seat, and the tliird 



two churches befo 



Old-I' 



we attenij)ted t 



'i^^l'sh chapels, and th 



"iversalist church. I 



re 



" enter 



very slightly altered, and 



c servi 



^'c was 



'I'll 



's service is intended to 



a sermon upon All S 



t IS one of the 
our /,ituri,ry 



"Pini<;ns mav be 



th 



and 



suit everybodv.wh 



^■y can not s 



'" '"^"•>- places in Canad 



aints' Day. 
itever their 



ha /e these i: 



\Ve d 



"PP'<rt a number of diifj, 
'•'vcrsalist churcl 



;i where 



nei;^rh|),,rh 



rove afterward.s, and 



ics. 



rent .sects, they 



ood 



^'■y is Knglish-look 
^V'e had to d 



inir 



^avv a «:reat deal of ,1,^ 
le coun- 



_"e Villas are very pretty, and tl 



ever, it will enabl 



e at foiir—Amer 



'can .system ! I{o 



thirt 



een h 



Moiiiiii 



loiirs'railwavt 



•'. ^'/.—'I'he d 



*:/'^ to so to bed early, and 
>-'n<>rrow to Afontrea'l 



prepare for 



than I expected 
We had 



'y passed much 



. and we real I 



I very comfortal 



v e 



""Jre pleasantly 



"joyed th 



pas.sed through I 



>'i' compartment t 



e journev, 



M 



ountains and 



'cautiful scenery ( 



'cut meals. ( 
•""cr. but, thank 



half 



^^'vcral rivers), and had 
■cnerally they onl 



o ourselves, 
^^'t'"i^' the (;reen 



y wait te 



an h 



our. 



^ t<' our "hi^h ofh 



two most exrcl- 
" minutes for 



ce, 



H 



!»r to relate since 



• they yave us 



•///—I 1 



''ave had nothin 



cpwortii I)ix( 



""• '■^'turn here, but to-dav I 



^'■'^^\\ Harriet, to tl 



". who is Kta 



the( 



Four h 



lor.ses started i 



"e steeplechase 



y'"«: wi h us, hi 



V, particu- 
took Mr. 



'. "IS sun, and 



'OVerm)r.(;enerarsChall 



,'; ';"^'' ^"^-e: the first was 



was that of 



'jockey." fii^i, 



a man of fifty 



^'"^^e Cup, and the onlv faU 



«even-rather ok] m ,| 



lay stiiffor ::: ;:;r:r'"r'" ^'^ ^ i-^. and ;;; 



ened us; but h 



cconds on tht 



e rid 



er 



Jfround and frij^rht- 



^' tf"t up and walked about all th 



e res? of 



NOV. 1874 



"'' ^^raccful, and 



OTTAIVA. 



227 



every ,i.e >: ^^ZiJV^Z "' ',"' "?' '*'« 
W^,, --/.-The new (General,. Se.by Smy,,,. and 

clay.-' 'rhe'ii;: r' ::.c:';rv:,rr '''v^ 

^.^.^^^ wh.ch all the young IacJ.es have been prac 

Inilians and otl,er ■■ „.i|,| „„,„.. „ I " "" "V 

•The General commamling the Cn„a,li«n Mili.m^ 



228 



^fy CANADIAN JOURNAL, 



cir. XIII 



unless some kuici friend assassinates him. I was thre.t 
cneclwUhaw,feforlHnUuuianUnhopesth" S; 
c H.S su,,,.est.on I have made as to tl./appropri.ue e 
of .nak.ng the pair stand as spectators over tl>'sk tine 

T::::::t::ei::s'^^'"'''^^"^'"^^^'^^-'--'"^ 

materil c^, f ' '"■"" ""''' ""'"^ "'^^ ^^ '^e same 
matenal coals for eyes, and an old hat on his head- he 
•s ei^riu feet h.^^h, and stands ri.r|u i„ ,„,• wiv hi ' 
view of the I'arhament mulditu.s " the ' '' T^ 
was illuminated with red and g;i!;n f.re ""'"'"' '" 

Tuesday, December i ::th '/'h,.r,. ,..., . 

.1 ^ 1 iiere was some verv pooH 

oboggan.ng to-day. The new slide is must e?citl 

for. the natural hill not hein.consi.ieredut^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
teep.a «reat addition has been made to it. A ^ 

iS •;;uitun"'•^^r^"''''^"'^"^^'^'«^--^- 
s ; ; \ " """"'' perpendicular, the toboj^^an 
sta ts at a rap.d rate down it-and its oaupant has 

t^^T T T ^"'^"^^"^ "^ '"-^ -^"^'^ ^- y 

r ased. To-day the wooden part of the slide is a 
shce of ue, so the tobo^rgans rush down it at a tre- 
mendotis pace. « nc 

/W,jr, /.;V/,._Gwen and Katie* arrived about five 
o clock, lookuig extremely well. 

C//m/;,.^. A,,, /.,,;/„,, ^,-//„1a„ i^j^al Christmas Day 
-the weather lovely, twenty de^^rces of frost, and a 
)n«ht sun. The children had received presents from 
the.r governess and nurses in the mornin^^ and were in 
Kreat exc.tement. After breakfast they came down and 
we .ntroduced Nellv a, Uermie to a dolls" house w." 
K-l.«hted them. Hallio ha<I dressed a number of inhab- 
itants for it, and it is a (harming toy. 

In the afternoon, every one. except me. went out and 
had a very pleasant afternoo n skating and tobogganing. 

• My sisters. 



ved about five 



JAN. 1875 Cnil.DRE.^S TABLEAUX. ^, 

I found plenty of ,,vork at the Christmas-trce. wlmh was 
ready d.rectly after tea. The only co,.,rtn,.ps of the d, ^ 
happened just a.s the ehiklren were iumpin/whh e..c,te- 
mcnt to ,., ,n to see it. The ,..s went out. and we ha,l 
to wa.t more than half an hour for it to rea.ver In the 
mean t.me we got up a dwarf, wh.ch amused then, ,u, h 
Ihe tree was next lighted up, and was greeted with 
cheers. The r.fteen children-the eldest deven ye 
old-were all perfectly delighted, and were much t'oo 
pleased w.th the treasures they i,ad received to feel iu- 
c ined to play games afterwards. They simply sat on 
the floor absorbed m their new possessions, will, s.ghso" 
perfect happmess. The youngest of the party wat o„o 
..the happiest ; she ran about the floor pulling a sheep 
after her, and looked such a pretty little dear. The Z 
people also went away laden. We were fourteen at din- 
ner, w.th governesses, secretaries, etc., and in the evea-. 
ing we played games. 

/•//;/<,.•, January r. ..sy^.-W. were more or loss f,usy 
in the morning makmg the arra.,gen,ents for the chil- 

' Thorn -V"' '""' "•'° '" ''° "'^ '''■ -^" ' -- 
at home to receive visitors. Wc had ., , gentlemen 

who said "How do you do>- had a .rl.,«« , f ' 

cup of tea, and passed away ^' '' "^ ""'"^ ""^ ' 

We refreshed ourselves with a little tea when the re 
c Pt ... was over, and then I dressed for the evening 
and helped to paint the actors. ^' 

The play took place upon a small stage erected in 
the ante-room to the ball-room. M,-. Hii, :"r 
P.ece and painted the scenes. •' Pussy-cat. Mew-.ne " 
was the name of the play, and it went of ve y w , 

•-I .as excellent in the par. he uiulertook.^^^L^^^^^ 
«H1 .nade-up. with rcl stockings, red knickerbockers a 

hrowi. l,Iouse. and red wiLr I-r.-.i \y...., ^' * 

magician, in a dressing-gown covered 'with my Jl!;;^;;;;; 



I. 



1 1 



i :k 



230 



^^y C^A^^D/A.V/OUA'X^r.. 





CH. XIII 

si),^ns. Nelly looked very nrertv in . • 
^"K a crown on her hc.d \ '" '''^''''^ ^"^ 

Ardne was a prince n^''^ T "'"^' '" ''^'^ ^and. 

" >ran in the Mo"" rfd n"' "'"'^ = '''^-'"-' '^e 
all the oti,ers in th; same u-ll '7"' ' ""'^ '''^'^>' = ^"^ 
colors. Terence's fu? ' "^ '"'"'^''"^ '" ^'ff^Tent 

-.and,r:^;^;:\r:-;--^^-^^^ 

much unproved in acting since 1 .st v 1 '" '"''^ 

I'll.. /.// -"'""-i. last \c.ir. 

' "ill dcscn,: .r,™,'' """■»'■"•'' '--■™n,,.clf,„.„ich 
"ea.l. her .a. ,hr,' " "'" "','■'"''' •« "« '"P; be- 

»"" "■.-.» c.,c„a::.u ': z';:z:rv '"^ ™"^^' 

tlieir feet in his rt-d m. P"^'t'<>n. lercncc lav at 

"K|..e<. up „,.„ >.,„•■:„!'•*•-'■ t, ■'"'■^ «- 

the Kncounter.thrReultn"' ,"';■"" '" ' ^— -"-'t : 
Victor. ^'"'^' ^"^' '''" Coronation of the 

ma.::ti;L^cti;^C,t;e:^^^ 

V ine. ■rutcncr, and won a cup presented 

pi.r"' nt," ;;t :.":i"r ' """'■• "-■' »•= ->--" >>- 

■■"'or ,„.« *„H.ir ,,,""*■"■'' ""' "">■ """py. ••.">! 

lil'le pcple left *"'"" "" '■'<l'', »'l'™ ,l,e 

'on;;::;;:':;;-::;\-'];,r r' "■' "-"-"• ' -p*- -« 

"^Ve had not left Ottnu-i t-~ n-"- . , 

' •"" f^'inutes before the 



fiite tarlatan and 
a'ld in her hand, 
^■t-r; Terence, the 
^ pink fairy; and 
ume in different 
■ tiiroiijrh the full 
All have very 

Kui .o be behind 
ne myself, which 

painted in dark 
'ick opened, dis- 

silver and red. 

at the top ; bf. 
y in the center, 
Terence lay at 
louped beneath 
-■ They were 
aby amused us 
f the pcrform- 
a t'»iirnament : 
^nation of the 

of thecurling;- 
cup presented 

- repeated the 
for sixty.five 
•y happy, and 
'jlit, when the 



FEB. 1875 



CL'KUXG. 



train came to a stand, and all 



J31 



out. By their exertions we 
yards, when a second 



our sweepers had fo jump 



K^ot on another few hundred 



This kind of b 



stop ctccurred. 



at the end of which 



usiness went on for near! 



time the Parlia 



y an hour. 



still in sijrht. After a little 1 



ment Build 



in^r^ uire 



m 



On arrivnij^r at Montreal we found 



lowever, matters improved. 



ff very cheerful, and 



our rooms look- 



which those marvelous 'adies* 



a nice little supper rcadv. foi 



Tufsi/ay, j6t/t.~\\ 



were aj^aiii quite rcadv, 



Rink; found the P.ethunes, M 
and a couple of nice Knjr'lisl 



e started at eleven o'clock for'th 



i:'is Campbell, Mr. M 



ax we 



lows we passed a couple of h 
executed a brilliant lancers 



J(lishmen. With these plavfel- 



ours very i)loasantly. and 



.\t 



2-.10 the two I'Ved 



liave a 



k'ame of curlinjf, prc|)arat 



Is and I and Xowell 



went to 



le oldest members of the M 



row with four of tl 
Club, whose united 
Sf)methin«: like 350 years. We did 



ry to a match to-mor 



a^cs. 



I b 



out real 



elieve, are to amount to 
not play well, and 
we ended by winninjr the tw 



got a bad beating;, though 

last ends, the latter of which w 

girls went out walking with Colonel Fletcl 



o 



:is an end of four. 'Pj 



le 



and the other two young men I h 



with 



s. and at ten we went to the ball, I 



H-r, Maxwell 
ave mentioned dined 



arge square room, with beautiful 



t was a nice. 



q»'.-terie, and very jolly. (;,ven looked ,., 
I'kcd her dress. As you may suppose, sh 
partners." 



music, excellent 



par. 



very well, and I 
e got lots of 



M^on,l,n\ Frhruarv rsf. Th 



was the opening of th 



e great event of the day 



at Ottawa, 'Phe h 



new theatre here— the first 



one 



iox a very comfortable and con 
Tuesi/ay, ^th.~\ great curii 



ouse IS really very nice, and the stat 



venienf one. 



ng-match was played be- 



• My lifters. 



232 



^/y C.4A'AD/,Ar JOUKXAL. 



CH. Xl!i 




tween our club and the Renfrew Clnh i 

sented by the Caledo-uan C b f ' T ' '"'^"' P^^^" 

to Renfrew, and four :U;:^n^n::^:T^''^^««'^' 

w.nner could not be announced t I the Uv > "' ^ "' ''' 

«ver. The two i-reds -.n,i ^r "" t'^*^ ^uo frames w<Te 

went early to ]<enfw Cm 'r^^- "^^^^ ^-^ ^xon 
-'cl Robertson wrr^;"';-';^^-^'''' ^'^-"«' ^''etcher, 
.^ame be;,an at ten u tl h '■'"'"""^^ ■^^^^- '^ ''« 

'1 l>e V. R c C were "'' ^^ ''' ''''^ '''' '"^'^^ ''- ' s. 

telegraph fhat v. Ren"; the^w rc'ti '^" "^" '"^^' '^^ 

••ss:iis r! ~ " ~^^^ 

-rried Ministers andl^^^l^JJ^'^-t'^"^ V'' 
was expected in the House • J I ^'^^^ ''"'"^'"" 

^^'""er, and they amnest cd'Ri I 7 "'"" '" '^'''' ^^'^' 

-^■eks old. so I was abie tc7f ' '''"^''^ * '^ -^^' ^ve 
representation of the ' f L '""^"^^ ^^ ^'^^ -cond 
^'-" ''-t performance hid be "'"'"''" "' ^^•'^'■^^'' 

It i.^ an operetta, wriuen by Mr ni'"'^"'":'^ ^"^^^'^^^"'• 
.^•^•11 by name, and composed b^ ^ ""i;;?; "'" ^'"^ "^"'^^ 
'" Ottawa. The mus, s v ' ^"''' ^''^ "^^^-"'^t 

play excellent ; it is verv ■'7"\P''<^tty and the whole 

t'^i". on one's'own s a;e' nd": '"^, '' '^'"^^ *"" '^ -- 
poser must have been sati^f d wi "m " "''^"^ *'>"'' -'"- 

san,. and looked charmim '"?"' ^^''- '^"^^"". both 

J^-'-'-r. u-as quite ,"";;'■• "'' ''^ '^''"^^ '-"-'f. Mr. 
I asked the actors to keen nn ♦!, • 



• Lord Frederick IJlackwr 



Jiiirii o/',t), p_i _ 



VAL. 



CH. ywi 



MAY i«75 IfOAfE ON SHORT LEAVE. 



\ for a medal pre. 
r "f wurs held to go 
(.\mie here ; so the 
c two jrames w^re 
l^aKcr .iiid Dixon 
, Coionel Fletcher, 
lained here. 'J he 
ly for three iiouis. 
behindhai;ii. but 
later we heard by 
-s, so we won the 
irst public match 
le to dinner, and 
he evening, 
r-party to-day— 
^ great division 
t off there after 
the night. 
»y * is now five 
at the second 
eux/'of which 
'cly successful, 
hom you know 
s, the organist 
I'ld the whole 
'■""g out a new 
tlior and com- 
>rsand singers 
• Angiin. both 
e himself, Mr. 

'tn'ucs during 
very gay and 

iry, 1875. 



233 



preiy. the girls' colored petticoats and high, white caps, 
and i .. men's bright-colored clothes being very elfective' 
iWdnesday, April 2ist.~\\xcxit was a severe frost last 
night, so we determined to have some skating on the 
Curi.ng^Ruik— rather late m the year for my first skate! 
Sun,.'av, 2j///.— Baby was christened by 'the name of 
Irederick Temple. 

Tuesday, May /////.—We leave for three months' 
holiday m England, and had quite a sad parting with 
the seven little ones. General Selby Smyth met us 
with his A. D. C, at the gate, and at the station therj 
was a crowd of people to wish us adieu and don voyage 
The day was lovely. At Montreal we were met by (ien- 
eral O'Grady Haly,* who is to be Administrator during 
D.'s absence. 

IVeJnesUay, 12th.— \ torrent of rain falling all day 
We left Montreal early, and spent ten hours in the train, 
reaching Quebec about six in the evening. 

FrUay, i^t/i—X very stormy night, slates blowing 
about, and we go on board to-morrow ! 

Saturday, /j/Z/.—Such a dreadful morning: snow 
rain, and cold wind of the bitterest description. I) sent 
to beg the Mayor not to bring the steamers out to ac- 
company ours, as it was impossible for any ladies to go 
'n them. The Lieutenant-Governor came for us. and 
drove us down to the Polynesia,,. One steamer did go 
with us for a little way with a band on board They 
played " He is a Jolly Good Fellow " and "God save 
the Queen," and cheered us when we parted. This was 
about I p. M. 

At three we stopped suddenly, and on .sending out 
to inquire we found we were ashore! We got off soon, 



The General Officer coipHiandin" !! Vf F.r-. •- !> •.• u ».• i, 
Amei'ica. 



1 








' m 


H 




1 


1 ■ 
( ' 
|: 

i 



234 




I 




'''' ^^y^^f^A^ yOO^^^y^^, 



but at four we were ctuct • "' '"' "" 

;;-^ could not get off till TuL^" ^''"^ ^^^ ^^re told 
'^"^ »'ght. We have a vervlT' "' '^^'° ^'^'ock in 
deck, with a wa.n..:ate;Ttori "'''' -ttin.-roon. o 
-oking-roon, in which .ehl: ''^"^ "^" '" '^ ^'- 

^;Pes of getting off tHl V; '"^t^h^f " '''''■ ^« 
the boats went out to do some L ^'^^"''''''- One of 
n^^ get back ; another was se ^ f ""l "''"' ^^ -uld 

^'^h a large proportion o an " ' '"^ "°^^ '^»'''. 

pose when we do get off t 2 J""' ''' ^""^- ^ -p' 

of ice, which looked very p '?;"" ? ^^^^ted a field 
Some small pieces floated roun'.'" '^' '■"^>' ^^'-''"?- 
h^ '"«"t we got into quit a hir^ '""'' ^"^ ^^^--^ 
'^ «toP- ^ ' -^ ''"^'^ P^'-t of it, and had 

round us-;o,ne, dirt/b'oH",VT '''^^'^ "^ '<^« -'' 
-'^■^e. and all rough and rigged '^ ''"'"' "''^^- 
deck, a ship stopped on its voyage ^^"^^^ '-»"- ^ wet 
"•es H-e find on this May day 4^ . . ""^ '^^ '''^^«- 
ba^•»^ to move slowly through th. '^'^ ^'^'^^'^^ ^'^ 

"'■'""^' employment, that of w'!: "^ '' ^'^ ''' ''''^'^'■ 
"^"t •• we were in cuttL 1 ) "^ "'" ^''^^^ " J^K^ger- 
this field of ice " meL '"""^ '^^ "^^^ 'trough 
P'--. i-t as a kn ifT '.Tt:;,;-^ through g.eaj 
^onietimes the piece resisted „.^^ ' wedding-cake. 
^^ hj'd to push it slowT fde Lf' ' '"'"■" '^^^^^' -'"d 

^/'^..Av. ^oM._i awoke ,hT«'''' ''"'^ ^^' ""• 
^'earing the vessel cruncTun/" ''' '" ^^^ '""n, 
^-e free, but in a fog he s f'"!' *'^ "^' '-^^ ^-' - 

As soon as we got far .. T"''°'" ^'^^^ '-»" ^av. 
7"" of the ice. and win, o"' ""'^ "^ ^--^ ^he 
o^ a .reat deal of fog. and^;:; .^rnr"'^'''"^' '" '^^^ 



I^fl 



I 41 



CHAPTER XIV. 

AN UNEVENTFUL SEASON 1875-76. 

FriJav, October 22d.-l sent you a post-card from 
Londonderry telling you that we were off on our return 
to Canada after our holiday at home. We got on board 
on a very disagreeable evening, but we thought the wind 
was lessenuig, and that we should probably have a calm 
passage. We talked of seeing land on Thursday, and 
made up our minds to reach Quebec at the latest by 
Tuesday. Thursday, however, found us very near Ire- 
land, in a regular storm, which lasted two days and two 
nights, during which time we scarcely made any progress 
In twenty-four hours we only made forty knots, and the 
Captain said he had never been so delayed in his life be- 
fore W e were obliged to remain below, and I can't tell 
you how dreary it was, rolling perpetually for two davs 
and two nights in one's berth. Later on we saw some 
beautiful icebergs; and now that I have seen field-ice 
icebergs, fog, and a storm. I do not wish for any new 
experience of life at sea. We go! to Quebec this morn- 
ing, and found the weather beautiful, but very cold 
One steamer, which left the Monday before us arrived 
yesterday with her bulwarks washed away, and having 
lost three boats. Our Prussian received no damage • she 
IS such a good sri-boat. ' 

The General, Lieutenaif overnor ,Ar ^..^me to 
meet us, and our landing m ..ns lovely place was very 



236 



^^CAN^-U^rjon^j,^^^ 



CK. XIV 

pretty. It is so ca; ,,„, . 

d-.^ fee, «, exhilfr^.i,?; y^'lZ'^ "' '""''"'" -" 

'he hotd ,.„, They ca^ , i^"""""*' """ -e at 
house. ^ '■"""' '° lui'^h, and to see their 

Thurscia 2StIi T o 
t'eton c-.I ,r;n camT ^1";'?'?' '"' ' '^'^'^- '^^e IJt- 

--• -^-'-V expecte °t n;r'th':'K """ /'" '^^^'^ ^'^ 
^ crown and train, and stilTth ^ ^'"^^ «^ <^'-"ada " in 

^"- '- wiil appear'in fun dress ''^^ '''^ ^'^"^ ^"'"- 

^een begun. It is to serve the nurn' 'T''"'''''' ^^' 
as uell. '^^ ^^^ purpose of a supper-room 

Saturdav. i^th i-p _ 

to give a fancy ball, and TrrT"";^'^ I'"'^" '" '""^ ^^^^-" 
talk. ' ^"^^ •'^'^^-ady deep in niiUinery- 

Thursday, i8th.~\\^ skit^rl f 
year, on the Rideau, where we h. d '" ^'■'' "''"' ^^'^ 
We had a jirreat din,, ! '"^^^^ ^ P'^ce. 

u a ^reat dinner to-n e it for th« ^ . 

Supreme Court (sixty-tw. nest J . '^^^^^'^ «f ^he 

shaped table spread in tie b. , ! " ""f ''"' ^ ^^--^^ T- 
. Monday, Decc.er m^^^ZT, '''' '^• 
'ce .imply perfect. We hav I^ '' '"'^ '^^ ^''^'''""^ 
t« teach us to flood it proper,v n T '"u'" ^'■°'" '^^"^••«-' 
structions is excellent. ^^' "^ '^' ^^«"'t of h,s in- 
Thursdav nth Tt,„ 

!;;-y.o..di«ttr?:or;re" '"'^'-'- 
:;;;;;;;;|_;M»■ettydol,,dres.,edi,Mhesl^ ,; /,'^^™- 



^'n 



DEC. 1875 



SATA TING. 



m 



gown, for Victoria. She was delighted, and carried it 
about all the evening. 

Saturday, iith.—\St asked Miss Kingsford, Miss Pat- 
rick, and some of the other good skaters to come to-day 
that we might practice our figures. This was a real' 
true skat.ng-party, with no temptations to toboggan or 
dance, and it was very pleasant. We worked away at 
roses, double roses, thistles, lil.es, snails, etc., and then 
we came in, had some tea, and talked about -the fancy 
ball. 

Monday, ?oM.— On Saturday we had the same people 
as last week, hut as the thermometer was about 20^ be- 
low zero, skating was a doubtful pleasure. Sunday was 
still colder, and to-day the weather is no milder. 

Tiu'sdiv, 2ist.~.lh\xing the afternoon a sudden and 
comfortabi change in the weather. They say there was 
a jump of ^ in the twelve hours; and certainly it be- 
came very wa.in. and a complete thaw set in after a very 
"cold snap" in.i jd. 

Friday, 241 ■.— i'he ';now is quite off the tobo;:.traning- 
slide, and the Skatin;.; ik is spoiled for the present ; but 
it has begun to freeze .igain. I was very busy all' day 
with Mrs. Hall, arranging the Christmas-tree. At five 
o'clock Gwen and Russell* and Fred Ward arrived. 
I'hey met at Prescott, Cwen looks extremely well. 
During the severe frost in Montreal her h- t-water pipes 
burst, and she was nearly frozen. 

Saturday, ^f///.— A wet Christmas Day in Canada ! We 
went to (hurch under umbrellas! However, it cleared 
up afterwards, but was at ' o time a nice day. At five 
o'clock the Littleton children came, and after tea the 
tree in the ball-room was lighted up, and the shrieking 
" brats " were admitted to it. The tree was very suc- 



* My sister and l.rothcr-in-l.iw. Mr. ami Mrs. Ru r, .Stephenson. 



■ If 



h \ 



mm 




238 



^^ ^^A'^z;/^AV06./...^,,. 



^««s^ul, and really looked v 

J-^t in front of th'e Tl ro . 7 '"^*''>'- ^^ -as placed 
-^''^•Pe were concealed by . ?'""■'" ^^^^'entricities of 
^"d g'ass balls and i/? "' ''^ '"'''">-^'oIored cr. ! 
f"d -surro.ndedr e r ''T''' '"'^^ --H p." ^n ^ 

^^n. bounded b, ; XX ;:,;-^- --. t.:x 

p". presented by His E. to d ' ''"" ^""'- '"bol 

-'»-''>■ one for n,e. ^Vhc-n't " ll 7'"' ^""'^^^-^ne very 
'esu sided .e be,an to . ^ " "^'""^"^ '^^ ^ ^^ 

"'^'; ^."-r presents '''"'"^'" ^^P^ared well pleallj 

'/ I'diiesdav^ 2nf/i 7-1 

;an.icipa,e great a™ s J, r,":'^" '- '")■ -p. 

mere amateur stae-e Tl,^ '^ ^"'te bevond tli-.f „f 

'' back,.™,,,,,, of ^:, '^7-= ■•"■" ^'--ee. and a ca .^ 



0- III 



Jan. 1876 MARRIED VS. BACHELORS. 

239 

Side by minor fairies of the female sex, while two male 
fairies sit in cars underneath. This is the last scene of 
the play and while this gorjreous sight is in the back- 
ground the active performers in the piece are grouped in 
the front. We had an appreciative audience, filling the 
room. ' ** 

Tuesday, iith.-K very important curling-match took 
place in our rink, between the four " Fredericks - of the 
\.ceregaClub and the four "Jameses" of the Ottawa 
Club. Alas! the Jameses won by one. There were to- 
bogganing and skating after lunch. A lovely div- 
about zero. ^ "■ -^ 

^Vednesday, /^//..-The married men of the Curling 
C.ub had a match against the single ones. The best 
bachelor was absent, and " little Campbell " (who is very 
short-sighted, and never plays) took his place. He was 
a great element of amusement ; for, in the first place, he 
made by accident two most beautiful shots, then he fell 
in front of a stone while sweeping, etc. The bachelors 
were beaten by :8 to .. There was much tobogganing 
m the afternoon, and a frightful upset, Fred and Colonel 
Littleton coming in with their noses scraped by the icy 
snow upon which they fell. 

Thursday, /jM.-The bachelors determined to try 
and regain their laurels to-day, and marched in proces- 
sion to the Rink. They were dressed in white bLiket- 
coa s, wore white kid gloves, and orange-flowers in their 
but on-holes. Their fate was, however, as sad as yes- 

Monday, lyth.-W^^ had a large children's y.xXy in the 
evening. When the fifty-five children ai.a their mam 
mas had arrived and seated them.selves, " Liule Nobody " 
began, and went most successfully till near the end 
when in the middle of the last beautiful fairy transfor* 
mation scene there was a fire, which might have been 






F 



f* 




240 



^fy CAXAD/AN JOURXAL. 



CII. XIV 

'"-e were people ru^lS;' ',':':; :7r' '-"-»•. 
Kreat scrimmaire aoim, „„ } nowinR, and a 

Lablo queen of . k iri,. '"^ "'""' "'^ ""P^'-^- 

rose-ligh, over .he scene hnj' ""'T """' ""'''■ ^ 

»■•■'» spoiled, and tlu au'.ho a„d Z" ''""" '''''"' 
tlieir hands a lilile carpenter burned 

wri.;n.on.\,,e;?:r:r?,;r:;r'io',''"-";^'^" 
■^e a ver, pren;^::^,;:' v: z:::"' -= -"-' ""^ -'" 

r//^,/,,,, 2j///._Spent a great cleil nf r 

copied for the sin,n-n. u Hri .J ^ "^' ^^o parts 
of each fi,.ure Vou ',v ' '" ^"' "' '''''■^>' ^"''''^^ 

^iiffia,Ity 'of arra^,!" r^""" ^'"'^ "'"^"•'^'"" -^^ the 

Fred wL dcTJhSde Ltr. Tn'V"^ '" ''"'^^^- 
of it. ^ ""^^ ' ^"' ^ lielp-aiid dream 

in.tr«';:::;::';:;;';r -7 ^"<'«"ied .„. ™„r„. 

IH'ople join I r J ' r'^'''*' ^'"^ '"•■»^^' the elderly 



MARCH 1876 OPENIAG OF PARLIAMEXT. 



241 



Sunday, joth. — The Comte Louis de Turenne arrived, 
and we took him a snow-shoe walk. 

Jfom/iiv, j/s/. — We all— I), and I. the Littletons, the 
Freds, and the Comte de Turenne — started in a private 
car for Montreal 

IVfi/ncsdiiy, March ist. — A very stormy, sncjwy day, 
extremely cold, and no admittance to the Kink. In the 
evening there was a fancy dress ball on the ice. Ihe 
Count, the Littletons, and those who had not seen this 
before, were delighted with the sight. It was bitterly 
cold, and 1 wai glad to skate a little in a domino. I 
danced a set of lancers and some other things with I). 

Thursday, 2d. — Some good skating in the morning, 
then a grand lunch at Mr. Ryan's, which our three 
Fredericks had to leave early, as they were going to 
join the fourth Frederick in playing against four Jameses. 
We meant to go and see the game, but when we arrived 
at the door of the Rink we met our party coming out, 
victorious and radiant. 

Saturday., 4th. — Wo left Montreal by the morning 

trani, taking with us the Comte de Turenne and Cawen.* 

Tuesday, jth. — The Marcjuis and Marquise de Hassano 

arrived t'^'s 'ternoon, just as we were fmishing a labori- 

ous rehearsal of part of •' School." 

IVcdnt'sday, SUh.—\ cold, windy day; however, we 
went out and skated. The Comte de Furenne is work- 
ing hard at the outside edge. The Cabinet dinner took 
place to-night, and the new Ministers came for the first 
time, in tiieir uniforms. The dinner was in the ball- 
room, and we had a band to play during the evening. 

Thursday, gth. — In the morning wc had some skating 
and curhng; the day was beautiful anil mild. After 
lunch we went to the opening of Parliament. 



My brother, Colonel Gaweu R. Ilamihon, 



iff- 



i ! )i 



242 



MY CAXADIAN JOURNAL, 



CH. XIV 

I>rawi„,.-room afterwards. " ,c '^ , '""'"^' ""' ^'" 
at cne before, a.id I must hnv , '"''">' I^'"""'''^' 

l)rawin«-roo,n "'' ""^■'' "^'"^ ^^ ^ ^''"'^e after the 

the nrst two acts o'f "s ,1 '•" f ^"''"^" -' -'--sc.i 
Kimber and Miss Vell.t -^^'-y ^"'^cessfully. Mr. 

and we rehea-s.-d fh« . "\'-"^>-'-'«^ht singers arrive,!, 
^ lenea.sea the sinirniP- miirlriih... i 

.r,j;' '■■•"■■•»-«=";; ;:■:;;,- 

«<r..n r. • "^^'^ '^^P^ telegraphing from Ottawi 

<- an I brnig my toboggan ' •' m uttawa, 

ful party This i« , ' , '"" •'"'' '""' " "'on success, 
lie has hcK , , t " J; ■'>^"'^"' ""^ """«■ "i'li "«. and 

-.r,;^-'^:. ---:-!;/ ->:;ryn^ 

iiinch with U.S. " ' ''*= ''^*^^" P''«yers had 



MARCH 1876 



THEA TRICALS. 



243 



\ e dressed for the fancy ball at nine-all onr house- 
hold in costumes of the same pcriod-a.ul walked in pro- 
cession up the room. The dresses of our guests were 
beautiful, and there was great variety in them The 
sing.ng-dances and the new supper-room were nuul, ad- 
mired, and when people went away at 4 a. m. they seemed 
extremely i)leased. 

Satuniay, ..jM.-It snou ed hard-in fact, I have never 
seen the snow round us su deep. The Littletons have to 
be almost dug out every day, and the road to their house 
IS on a level with the palings. 

Monday, ^7///,_Tl,e l-rench members of the Com- 
mons gave a beautiful ball in the new Library at Ottawa 
to which we went. The room, an enormous round build- 
mj?, was very well lighted. 1 believe fifteen hundred 
people were in it, and there was no crush at all W'e en 
joyed it very much. Numbers of people wore their fancy 
dresses. ^ 

Wednesday, 2(;th.~'X\y^ Comte de Turenne arrived for 
tlie play. The actors dined early in D.'s room. Then I 
went to dress for Mrs. Jloneyton, in the " Happy Pair " 
Then the " School - arrived, and began to dress' in one 
room, and the men had another, and the guests came 
•rowding in. and got off their things in the school-room 
and there were painting and curling and excitement going 
on everywhere. 

Fred and I began the performance with "A Happy 
Pair." and had a very warm audience, which was pleas- 
ant, "School" is a very difficult piece for amateurs- 
hnt I must say that it was an unequivocal success' 
hvery part was wel! (!..nc. and it was (piite new here, s,, 
the audience liked it immensely. I was reallv surprised 
when I came into the supper-room to see how hand.some 
" looked, and If certainly \s u much needod addition to 
the house, enabling us to give supper to 



.!! 



17 



p|)er to a large party at 



I f 



244 



A/y CAXADIAX JOURXAL. 



CH. XIV 

once. Afterwards I went into the drawing-room, and 
said good-night to all the beaming crowd 

Tuesday, Apnl /////.-Such a lovely day We nliv 
tennis, walk, lunch, practice .some music, drive into Ot 
awa,and go to a birthday-party of the Littletons, where 
there was to be a magic lantern. I took si.x children, 
and Victoria enjoyed her f.rst party immensely, and ap 
plaudcd every slide. When a somewhat undra,L staiue 
oXiot'r ••'''' '''" "•'^'^'"''^^ ^hat " Hallie would pip 

MonJay, ////.-(J^en. Miss Abbot, and I drove into 

ttawa u) the morning, and after lunch walked to the 

nver Rideau to see the ice coming down. We stood for 

some tune watching great blocks go over the Falls, and 

: :7, /"'""'"-: ^ "^^i^^- '-^ 'i"le way off but 

tlK I. alls, that we returned to our original place and 
wlicn we got there found that a new bridge imn "di^te y 
over then,, upon which we had been standing a fe vS 

\vhtre we could have a good view of the river md suv 

such a .W.,,. and heard such a ....:;^ i/T L : 

here was great excitement on the spot-men and I Zes 

l::::^trs.r:::i^"^^-^^'"--^^^''-ouij:: 

yW</v, A/ay fm.-Thc waters of the Ottawa ire 
su feet higher than they have been for vears.and t ' re 
much more ice to come down; there are (iood.s everywhere 

rues.A,y, MM.-The weather deserves to be r ro led' 

or ,t rca ly was fine, bright and sunnv. aiui un k nv' 

Unj^ .^ have had before this month, -iv few :ot 2 

we able to appear, but they are not .trong enough 

cither to buzz or to bite. '""ikH 

/V/«^.v%. >„. /,/.__,03» in the shade. I was "it 

home," and received mv visitors i,, ., „..i..„ , ^% '^^ 

r,aiucij ffom four 



June 1876 



RIVER PARTY. 



ing-room, and 



245 



to six, when it was cooler and very pleasant. They 
looked at a jrame of tennis, and seemed to enjoy the 
garden. 

\Vednf,day, rfA.-D. and I, Nelly, the Smyths, and 
Littletons, h-H by a steamer at seven o'clock in the 
morning, and landed at Buckingham at eight There 
we saw a lovely waterfall. The river Le I.ievre a large 
tributary of the Ottawa, rushes at this place through a 
ry narrow passage, and after falling a few feet the 
incline becomes more gradual, but the water tumbles 
over r(,cks and stones, and looks like a very steep rapid 
unlike anything I have ever seen before, and verv beau- 
tiful. This sight was only r„ passant. Nelly was de- 
lighted, and kept up a fire of joyful exclamations, which 
helped us to like getting up so early. 

After driving through the village of Buckingham 
which was gayly decorated with flags and arches, we got 
out at a wharf, and found a small steam-launch ready to 
take us up the river. We had twenty-five miles to go, 
and were to be four hours doing it. There were some 
swift rapids in the river, and when we came to the worst 
ones we were told that the steamer was too heavily 
laden, and that some of us must get out. We had a good 
deal of trouble landing the gentlemen, I), only remaininj- 
with us. 

The small engine puffed away, but we made no prog- 
ress, and we got very frightened. The bell-rope whi( h 
the pilot used for giving his orders had been burned 
through, a lace curtain havirg caught fire early in the 
day, and when he called out his orders the stoker did 
not always seem to hear. I), tried to reassure us. but 
when we looked out and found that we remained exactly 
HI the same place-off a great rock_we ladies were in 

an aironv of terror 'I'lii.M tl.o K,^,» 1 ._ t . 

. " - •••-tit utj^ai! to turn round, 

and the gentlemen on shore were frightened too when 



11 



I. « 



246 



MV CAXAD/AAT JOURXAL. 



M 



i.ir 



CH. XIV 

they saw this manoeuvre 'r'h«,r 

Nelly and I were both in tear ami T i ^ ' """" 
now to think of Xdly- fa" 'th t " "•"^' '"'^^^"^ 

drownefi- u "'" ^''^ •'^" '^"'''•''1 t«^ be 

irr "'^^^'-"^•'-"'■. ^ve turned safely, and did irc-t to 

the share again, a,>d there we landed .0 thu t . .^ 

-■. a„„ „ ,„.„r ,0 see .ho I-.,,, ,he object .t Z e.'i^,,! 

The walk was rougl,, a.ul we had some climh.n. a,„l 
»ome steep places ,„ g„ down, a,ul there we i^^jf 

abou half-way down the Fall, and could neithe see he 
X^'f. "- the height of it. but only the thiek "s . 
't. A river with a rapid stream passes through a ve y 
narrow passage here, and issues like a wall of wa r 
from between the rocks. I UM as if a puff of w i ' 
"«•« t topple it down over me. We went ow a 
ward, and saw more of it; it is very hi^^^^^^^^^^ 

„ I- ji. — u^ found that everyUimg 






n 



JUNE 1876 



QUEBEC. 



247 



had disappeared from our basket. Lucky for us that 
driiiks had been preferred to silver spoons! Xclly and 
I rather dreaded the descent of our friend the rapid, 
but we got down safely in three hours. 

We found a large bonfire burning at Buckingham, 
and a crowd of people. There we got into the carriages,' 
and prospered till we came to a steep hill with a preci- 
pice on one side, in the middle of which our horses 
jibbed, and when they got us well to the edge of the 
"precipice," Nelly and I escaped through the window 
(a large one). The horses were led down the hill, and 
D. reproached us for leaving him alone in his peril. 

It was rather cold all day on the water, but warm 
when we landed. We got back about eleven, very tired • 
but, in spite of all our troubles, we were glad to have 
seen those splendid falls. 

When we undertook the expedition (invited by the 
owner of the steamer) we did not think it would take so 
long, and, m fact, knew little about it. The steamer 
has only been on that run for a few weeks, and scarcely 
anyone has seen thl^ Fall ; but I think it is a most mag- 
n.hcent sight. A reporter was present, and it depends 
I'PO" what he thought of the rapids whether other peo- 
ple are encouraged to go or not. As he was not in the 
boat, and had no friend to be alarmed about on board 
his view will probably be cheerful. 

Monday, /^M.-Packing day! Very hot, and every 
one meltmg and busy. Boxes and bags yawning all 
over the house. A holi.lay for the children 

Thursday, rs^A.-Wc started earlv m the morning 
bv tram to Prescott, there got into' the steamer, and 
had a pleasant voyage to Montreal, where we changed 
from one steamer to another, and came on to Quebec. 

Quebec: Friday, T6th.—\rn^ vd earlv. and larujed at 
eight; tiie Lieutenant-Governor and a' guard of honor 



! i 



i 



f fi 



248 



^/y CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



! r 



CH. XIV 

, „ r ' '"'■>' ^"'' ""'I »o "W not go „u, (ill 

1 e'"i':f d Tt ' """ '"''=<" °^- the scene 
tlie late l.re_desolat,on over a large space. 

-WW^., /7,/,_n.e „.e„t to see the temporarv ic 
co.nmo.la.,o„ arranged for the snfferers: eharh el', a e' 
akcn ,„ some, and drill-.sheds and barracks ho ", ler, 
1 oor people who have lost their all bore the°r m^ Irt 
unes wonderful,,, I thonght. Very ho dT^ „' 

he evenmg we wen, ,0 see the " I!„sv Ilees '• perform 
1 l«y are the officers and soldiers of the Hnatter H 

represen.^^^^^^^ 

J/,W,n. /j,//,._Three strangers dmed with us- a 
rre^ man, an Austrian, and an Englishtnan. D e„- 

Si c ' 7i:.^i :::: ^-^'i ^""'=' -^ -^ '^--p- 

■he afternoon ' """ '"" """"^ o'" «=""» i" 

came on, which lasted all day ™uer showers 

nrost beautifu,;: ,:;;'::: tt- ■'"v™"' "••" 

of it Innt^.J 1-u ^^^'' '^"'" the stage, at the far end 
ot 't, looked l.ke a garden, with real flower-beds in th. 
foreground, and a painted shrubbery behind ttt ''' 

present. K^"ery. About 200 gentlemen were 

D. and his speech were immensely wel! received, and 



Iren waitin;? 
t go out till 
he scene of 

nporary ac- 
arities have 
hold others, 
eir misfort- 
11 clay. In 
» " perform, 
'attery, and 
'trels, sing- 

^'ith us : a 
n. D. en- 
European 
I friends in 

parade on 
t'ith the n 
ne medals 
was beau- 
r-showers 

ve a great 
room was 
le far end 
ds in the 
sm. 

hich the 
-General 
"wn the 
len were 

ved, and 



JUNE 1876 LORD DUFFERLVS SPEEUf. 



249 



he spoke very well. He began by saying, «' I can not 
help remembering under what various conditions, in how 
many vital emergencies, at what supreme epochs in its 
history, durmg the last 300 years, my illustrious prede- 
cessors must have had occasion to harangue the citizens 
of Quebec. In a thousand vicissitudes of fortune, in 
perpetual alternations of triumph and despondency— 
when hordes of savages were lurking round your pali- 
sades ; when famine had prostrated vour strength, and 
the unaccustomed rigors- of an Arctic winter had be- 
numbed your faculties; when novel forms of pestilence 
devastated your homes, crowning your clergv and your 
sisterhoods with the aureole of martyrdom;' when for- 
eign leaguers as.saulted your independence, and hostile 
cannon threatened your battlements— Viceroy after Vice- 
roy has appealed to your patience, your fortitude, your 
charity, your patriotism; and never once, whether in 
good fortune or ill fortune, as your history tells us, has 
the appeal been made in vain." At the end he proposed 
the toast of " Prosperity to Quebec." 

Friday, 2jy.— We visited the SiUery Convent, and 
then walked into a place belonging to Colonel Rhodes. 
He has underground gardens, which supply flowers, 
mushrooms, winter salads, etc. The Colonel, who enter- 
tained us most hospitably, has made quite a name for 
himself as a practical gardener here. The view from 
the house is lovely. 

On our return home we had a long visit from the 
Bassanos, who were delighted with our platform. After 
dinner the soldiers had some very good theatricals. 

Sii/un/av, 24t/i.~\). went down to the steamer to say 
a few words to the Canadian rifle-team, now starting for 
Wimbledon. 

I was "at home," and the lovely morning turned into 
a very bad afternoon. Thunder and showers and wmd 



ii I ! tr I 











'\: i 


1 i? 


aii ' 


i 'i 







250 AfV CAA'ABfAJV JOURNAr. 

came on, and though I had many visitor, th 
uncomfortable. Some fearer! , y, '"^"'^'''' ^^ey were all 
"ked thunder, and o'L"! 7; '"'^ ^i"?^^' ^^^ •^'- 
horses; and 1 sincerely sympfi^^^^ ^^'^^ten their 

from ,t saw the procession of Jean 13a ,s 1 "; * '"^ 
the town on the way to the (■ n r h T ''"V ""^'^ 
festival at Quebec. ^ '"' '" ^^^ g'-^at 

\Ve .spent two hours at the rrsnlin. r 

'"«• P--es to the P.pd-te^he": "m 7''"' '" ^'" 
them, and comment ,'■''• ^^- t^'-^^Je a speech to 

-hi^^hvoun,^: '.2;r, r ^"^'-^^"-^f'-^ -y in 
-anci,;,the'case::f^:N:;;^^':^,;;;:-''--^inent.in- 

h^^ her handkerchief to tl^c ' /" '°"''""^ "•^^- 
ciown the river. ''''■'" ^'^'' ^^^^''^1 miles 

In the evening we .aT(»'i('f.H o ^ 
Jean JJap.is.e socletv XTl^"""''^'' «iven by ,h= 

took four Children iXtCuZ' "'="""'• ""^ 
ceive ,„ap,e s„„„r thro,,;,, .rC/''^" "«^. -^ <" «■ 

"■e e„i„,,d .aili„/ea,:r , Z' b™ if'f = """ -""• 
'■refrory, ,|,e offiHal wl,„ fur„i. e, 2 "'"■ '^''■■ 

"'<= "itli a kcv and „ i,h , I ! , " '""'''• P^sented 

'or ™y special ..en';;,! tl I' ^ IH;;;"^^ '-^on^h. 



Jfv IS76 rfsm.^G ON THE yo^A- avfej, 

^'y^A. 251 

We went „p to ,t, however-an hour's drive inrl fh 
hours on horseback-Archie bein. fL f ''^ 

really enjoyed th.s. Our servant ^ . " ,^ ""' ^''^^ 
look very nice, and afte lunrh '"''^' "^'^ ''"'^ 

river; b.^t the "news waft True^^t 1.7" t"' '' "^' '^^ 
too "heavy." We returned ' '"~''^' ,"''^^'" ^^'^^ much 
qu.toes. Let me slv t n ^ '" ^''"ncr-and mos- 

ever present. a::;ra::^,:;e -2,:::;:,;'^^-^'™- - 

a.^ f 4 ^ ^""^' ^"^1 'It eiffht o'clock J) 

and P red returned I) h wi ■ - *>'"•" ciock i). 

jrril^P fh« ^ '-''"^'''^ "^e -'ialmon and a 

grilse, the averap:e weurht of th« -1 , • 

tu„ 1 vvci^uL 01 ine salmon be nsr 21 li.^ 

the largest one 28 lbs Frerl ha.i « ■ ^ ** ''•• 

onH ., I had one salmon of 26 lbs 

and a larg-e trout of s Ihc u- t . ' 

hooked and flu J- ^ . '^'"'"" ^^^^ been foul- 

nooKed, and took him two hours to kill 

not brit fish~^^' '" "'"^' ''^^^^'"' -'^ ^here can 

the l,mK rule rTI • ^ ™™'"K. "nd in spite of 
•ormenK and FreH t" '? '" "•"• "■"■" "'"- 

R". one, an i Fred fie Th ? '" ''"*' "' '"'» """= 
and ail ■„,. „ er ., il„ u'"^='' "' "'' "» '^ ">»- 

suggested thrisM"'' "'''* '^''' ^"'^^ ^'-»«iJy. he 
fc.s>-sLeu mat 1 should trv mv liirlr \\r t . , ,. 

after breakfast, and thri ?., ^'^ri i ' •' ""'^'^ 

brought us to nnr n^ r'l.r ^"^^'^g aou waikmg 

« "s to our pool. We immediately set to work. 



'^^. h 



MAY i87S HOME ON SHORT LEA VE. 



233 







pretty, the girls' colored petticoat? and high, white caps 
and the men's bright-colored clothes being very effective' 

Wednesday, April -?/j/.—There "was a Severe frost last 
■night, so we determined, to have some skating on the 
Curl|ng Rink~rather late in the year for my first skate! 

Sundqy, ^jM.—Baby was christened by the name of 
Frederick Temple. 

^ Tuesday, ^ay //M.-We leave for three months' 
holiday in#ngland, ^nd had quite a sad parting with 
the seyert little ones.' General Selby Smyth met us 
M^ith .his A. D. C, at the gate, and at the station there 
was. a crowd of people to wish us adieu a^nd bon voyage 
The day was lovely. At Montreal we were met by Gen- 
eral O'Grady Haly,* who is to be Administrator during 
D.'s absence. * 

Wednesday, lith.^K torrent of rain falling all day 
We left Montreal early, and spent ten hours in the train, 
reaching Quebec about six in the evening. 

Friday, 14th.— K very stormy night, slates blowing 
about, and we go oh board to-morrow f 

Saturday, ,st^..-S,nch a dreadful morning: snow 
rain, and cold wind of the bitterest description. D sent 
to beg the Mayor not to bring the steamers out to ac-' 
company ours, as it Was impossible for any ladies to ga 
in them. The Lieutenant-Governor came for us, and 
drove us down to the Polynesian. One steamer did ^o 
With us for a little way with a band on board They 
played - He is a Jolly Good Fellow " and "" God save 
the Queen," and cheered us when we.panidr~THi^-was 
about 1 p. M. «,^ 

At three we stopped sudc_-.,^, _. 
to inquire we found we were' ashoVeV We got off soon, 




* 1 he (i«ne«U Officer commanidihg H. Nf. forces in British North 
America '^ 









fil 



in 



I' 

In.. • 




234 






cA. xm 



the night. We have a vei-v 1 ' T ' *^ ^^° ^'^'ocJc in 
d-fc. with a warm.:ater ttov° "'"^ -^^ing-room on 
-n#ing.room, in whi h te h, "e '^"' "^^^ ^° " ^^e 

f opes of getting off tilVT m at'^f " ^^"^^- ^^i' 
, the boats went outV do soniethin '''^^"'^'''- One of' 
.^ not get back ; anothl was s^n 7 °' '''^''' ^"^ co.,ld 
-«> a large proponK o" f " '"' ^'^^ "°- ^o^h. 
. pose when we do get off 1 Tj'^'^' ''' ^^^ne. I sup- 

of ice. which looked very tluyT Tk' "^'^^^ ^ ^^'^ 
Some small pfeces floated rou'd'" ""^^y evening, 

f'e, night we got into quite a thiol' "'''''' ^"^ ^""4 
■ to stop. , ^"'f^ a th.ck part of. it, and had 

., -unTt^lT^mTdU'T "V"^^ P'-- of ic^ all 

; ^ite, and all rough'i:^ 'a^ed'^A? '"^^^' -'^- 

deck, a ship stopped on its vovL ^^ '''^"" ""' ^ ^^^ 

"res we find on this May day Tr 1 ''^ ^^^ P'^^^" 

began to move slowly through th. " ""^ o'^ock^ 

^atmg employment" that of w.. u '"'■ ^' ^^« ^ f^C 
"«^t " we were in cnftL ""f "'^'"S^^^e great " Juggeri 

^his fidd of ice Some' mef '"''"^ '^^ ^^^ ''^ -ugh . 

sometimes the piece resisted u.'^'' *^^clding-cake, 
^« had to push it slow7;tfde Lr ''''"" ''^^^^^'-"d 

^^«..«5y,, .oM_j awoke ahnT 7' '""'^ ^^^ on.v 
'rearing the vessel crunch^' " ''^'^ '" ^^^^ '"orn. 
^«re free, but in a fog thTst^"? ''' "^' ^^ '- «5 ^ 

As soon as we j.ot far ''"'"■''°'-" "lew all day \ 

-orner of theiccand wlntro^ '°"'' "^ turned , he 



"Jf 



If' 



^ cii. xiri 

fie we were told 
two o'clock in 

5itting-room on 
"ext to it the 

eals privately. 

es stuck. No/ 
'ater. One of 
ler, and could 
irtd now both, 
?one. I sup- 
hem. 

ghted a field 

osy evening-. 

, and during 

't» and had 

es of ice all 
nps, others 
2r all, a wet 
- the pleas- 
o'clock^«e 
fas a fafci- 

f'/ugger: 
ly through 
^S^ great 
d'ng-cake, 
egree, and 

I get on.v 
he mori^, 
It ten w<^ 

II day. \ 
irned the 
:, in spitgl. 



/ 



.CHAPTER XIV. • 

AN UNEVENTFUL SEASON 1875-76. 

■ Friday, October 2 2d. -I sent you a post-card from 
Londonderry telling you that we were off on our return 
to Canada after our holiday at home. We got on board ^ 
on a very disagreeable evening, but we thought the wind M 
was lessenmg, and that we should probamyshave a calm ^ 
passage. We talked of seeing land on Thursday, and 
made up our minds to reach Quebec at the latest by 
Tuesday. Thursday, however, found us very "near Ire- 
land, m a regular storm, which lasted two days and two '' 
nights, durmg which time we scarcely made any progress. 
In twenty-four hours, we only made forty knots, and the 
Captam said he had never been so delayed in his life be- 
fore. We were obliged to remain below, and I can't tell 
you how dreary it was, rolling perpetually for two days 
and two mghts in one'.s berth. Later on we saw some 
beautiful icebergs; and now that I have seen field-ice. 
•cebergs, fog, and a storm, I do not wiSh for any new 
experience of life at sea. We got to Quebec this morn-- ' 
mg, and found the weather beautiful, , but very cold 
One steamer, which left the Monday" before us, arrived 
yesterday with her bulwarks washed away, and, having 
lofet three boats. Our Prussian received no dAe • she 
>s si|^ a good s^^oat ^^ ' 

■ Th e -Genex 



l^- 



meet us,«and o 




feUfenalil-Governor, etc., came to 
ding at this lovely place was very 



\ 






'^rmmm 



I:' 



.% 



•#"■ 




',^»i , 



''^AN jOuajSTAL. 






r^ 



236 

pretty. WmmS^^V A 

welco^i^to meet us at Fathir P^^' '"" ^.^"^^^"-« -^ 
stol. on the way anywhere w' ^^^'"«^ "^ "^^ to 
aftetnoon, and reach OttaayJiBfiSL ^^ ""^ ^°^^ ^^'^ ' 

. W come out with us I pLee ^^'r t'"'^"'* "^° 
:^rnet Fletcher, reached Ot^! ^°'^"'' ^"^ Lady 

f e hotel there. They ca^^^ -"^ are^ 

"^use. "^^ ^^"^^ t° l"nch, and to see their 

*'fe.o„ childr;„ catl^oTeTTt' '"" ' """■ «' Li.. 

: -ne. They expered. He-;'. h'e"' Kir" ;'rf""'°' 
» "own and train and «m ... f *^'"S "f Canada " in 

•tae -,ai„ app,a:'ir,„,rd'el'"'' "■"■^' ^"""^ '"■"« 

been begun. It is to servTth. tennis-court i|#^ 

as well. , '"'^^ ^'^^ P"'-P0se of a supper-rooT 

-''"" to ^^^t^S^!^;^rr !r^ ''^^^ '" '"^^ «--«on 

talk. ^ ': ^"^ ^'^^ ^J'-eady deep in millinery- 

Thursday^ iSth.—Vf^ ikf^H ( ,. 'I 

year, 6n the Rideau' wfeeirK J"" %^''' ^'"^^^ this 
Wehadagreatiw ! •^•^^'^'^^P^^^PJace. 

Supreme Cou^JxT^o !" f I '"' "^^^-^^^ of the 

#ce simply perfedT^ ha^Ilif '^^'*"'% ^'^-^ff- 
•■^Jo teach us tc. Aoodlt propi^^,i!f?^'^'^'^°'" ^°'^-' ^ 
structions is excellent ' ^"^A Result of h1ff„^* 

'^f ff a box directed to meW^^'^''''' ^' ^«v. 
S^^^P^^^^, 4resse<^|K,'^"''""^^* *^°"- 



* Lord If athe f 



!iartest blue velyet 



»-G,^Mr6r; 



^«=m6neI713Sp,l^^= 



nls. 



m-. 




DEC. 187s 



SKATING. 



237 



gown, for Victoria. She was delighted, and carried it 
about all the evening. 

Saturday, uth—ySt asked Miss Kingsford, Miss Pat- 
rick, and some of the other good skaters to come to-day 
that we might practice our figures. This was a real' 
true skating-party, with no temptations to toboggan or 
dance, and it was very pleasant. We worked away at 
roses, double roses, thistles, lilies, snails, etc., and then 
i#e came m, had some tea, andfWked about— the tancy 
ball. v.- 

\ Mqnday, 2oth.-^On Saturday we had the same peopl^ 
as last week, but as the thermometer .was about 20° be- 
low zero, skating was k doubtful pleasure. Sunday was 
still colder, and to-day the weather is no milder. 

Tuesday, .?/.f/.,^Durihg the afternoon a sudden and 
^mfortable chan|;e in the weather. They d^jLhere was 
^^ 7^^ the twelve hours ; and ce^^ly it be- 
ll^ery wWm, and a complete thaw set in after a very 
Mnap ' indeed. ' 
^J^nd^jjt/A. —The snow is quite off the tpAgganing- 
slide, andlMpkating Rink is spoiled for the present; but 
it has beguTtd- freeze again. I was very busy all day 
with Mrs. Hall, arranging the Christmas-tree. At five 
o'clock Gwen and Russell* and Fred Ward arrived. 
They met kt Prescott Gwen looks extremely well. 
During the severe frost in Montreal h|pr hot-water-pipes 
burst, and she was nearly frozen. 

Saturday, 2sth.-^K wet Christmas Day in Canada ! We 
went to church under umbreUas ! , However, it cleared 
up afterwards, but was at no time a nice day. At five 
o'clock the Lhtleton children came, and after tea th« 
tree in the t^U-room was lighted up, and the shrieking 
"brats'^ -were admitted to it. Th e tree was very sue 





My »i.ster and brother-in-law, Mruuid Mrs. Ritpert Steph. 



enson. 



iii&. «(!.-«• 



y* li^^ri^^^ 



238 



'r^^T": 



^^c^A^^z;/^^^^^^^,^^ 



-«ssful, and really looked v. 
J-tinfront.„ftheThrone /T'^'"^- ^' -as placed 
«hape were concealed by "pes o^''""' -^-'ncities :'- 
a"d glass balls, and it was ' "J'^^'-^^'^'-^d crackers 
f "d surrounded on the fln u"'"^ ^''^ «"^^11 Present 
-'•n, bounded by a pal n/oT ''/"^" ^"-' ^'^ "o e 
^-o-«. On the floor were afso t'T'"^"^^^ -^'-g- 
f^-"s, presented by His Ex to d ff ' ' '''" ^°"'- tobol 
-ely one for m. When tt fir r"' P-Pie-one very 
'e subsided we began to take thel''''^''"^"^ ''^^ - 'it 
^ - J^appy to say the ch, rl'^ f;"// ^J ''^-ree, and 
^'th their presents. appeared well pleased 

^nd Russell S.ephenson^ Mactfl.:''':"" f>-. F. Ward 
Lietleton. We also dre^ for ,h ' '^'■«' ''"<' Colonel 

. lanticipate great atol '"^"^'' '<>' "y cun 

""I Owen ^.tcl^g\l2TT '" "^""SM^s Sleton 
very excited over !Z a„"d k"'! "'^^ ^ '"^y -e b a" 

. Sa/uriaj; JVw year's n ^''7— "le ladies, I mean 

--;» between .welTe ^^0^7^= "--" "- 
1 he day was very mid ■ Z^ "'■<'»y-"5 gentlemen 

^^^^yratetaeweatHerwasdecidedi:r,;^S-;,^^« 

-fprre1j"ra:--w"r.-peopleandt.eir ■ 
Nobody," written by Mr n '"" '''^•'- P'ay, "L.ttt 



^npporfea on 'eaci, 



-'<K 



'/ 



^r^'*"'*'* ^^^^re^D VS. BACHELORS^ 






239 



s.de by mmor fairies of the female sex, while two" male 
fa.nes s.t m cars underneath. This is the last scene of 
the play and while this gorgeous sight is in the back- 
fhrfrnn! ^^^';;<^ P^^^ormers in the piebe are grouped in 
the front. We had an appreciative audience, filling the 
room. '6 "'^ 

' Tuesday, itth.-K very important curling-match took 
place m our nnk, between the four " Fredericks " of xhe 
V.cerega Club and the four "Jameses" of the Ottawa 
Club. Alas! the Jameses won by one. There were to- 
bogganmg and skating- after lunch. A lovely dav- 
about zero. ^ ^ ,. 

Iff^sday, 7^M._The married men of the Curling 
Cub had a match against the single ones. The best 
bachelor was absent, and '< little Campbell " (who is verv 
short-sighted, and never plays) took his place. He was 
a great element of amusement; for, in the first place he 
made by accident two most beautiful shots, then he fell 
m front of a stone while sweeping, etc. The bachelors 
were beaten by 18 to .. There was much tobogganing 
in the afternoon, and a frightful upset, Fred and Colonel 
Littleton corning in with their noses scraped by the icv 
snow upon which tjiey fell. 

TAursday, jjfA.-The bachelors determined to try 
and regain their laurels t^-day, and marched in proces^ 
s.on to the Rmk. They were dressed in white blanket- 
coats, wore white kid gloves, and orange-flo.Wers in their ' 
inmon-holes. Their fate was. 'howe^r, as sad as,yes- 

Monday, s^^A.^W^ had a k^^ldren 's party' in the 
even when the fifty-fivripn and their mam 

mas h^d arrived and seated theifef^^, " Little Nobody " 
began, and went most succe5gfalj)r.jiir,3^ .g,^^^ 



when in the middle o7 the last beauTiful^aioTt^nsfor- 
mation scene there was a fire, which might have been 



.:t 



Mil 




M 




;' 1 




K 


■ ■» 






r ^ml 




■ ' 





-"d.e'u'ndeytl'; "T''"^ '° a'tae-ligh, held a 
.>-e „„, ;e.p,,e tl"' "at^^rtUrr '"™""^^ 

ne. e^:?, al r^l '™V--;«' -"speech. 'na,i.^J 

rose-light over U,e scent-h^ , / """ """"'fo* a , 

»as spoiled, and te author a°ndT"' ■'■''""' ""'' 
■Iheir hands a litlle . '!'"=afpe"'" burned 

wn.i„go.;Krp:: r:t:r™^n-;'^'>-eb,er 

"e a ver, prertilTe^;^! [i::'-;- - -P^c. .his ».„ ' • 

.«.p«<( W .he singing laMe .h„,*"""f • "° """^ 
of each figure V„,, ^ ''"'"'""''. 'ha. is, thirty copies 

difficuify of arrang nra^TJ'"' "' ""'"'''" """••■=■ 

. Fred Ward doe. .hf a'rd . pa^- STh: ''^ "', h^'""- ■ 
•of it. • '^ ".♦ '^"^ ^ hdp— aucJ dream 

ingt:;^':^r^-J^^,'^-«- -decided .his .orn.- '^ 
people Vin I te,v "I f -^t' *'" """''= "^ "derly 

vep^'jch a.i„rhtd!to';th:h^''hrsr''"-f i 

I intended to .aH him "'■""" "' "*' '""« "<"". 

•his came 1 e „,!,, ■■ "f " "' "" "">« P"""' ^fte ■ ' 




IHH^^Ml 



h*k 



f ■• 



MARCH 1876 OPENING OF PAikUAMENT. 



f4I 






Sunday, j6th.—-'Y\it. Com^, Loui§ de Turenne arrived, 
and we took him a snow-^oe walk. *■ ' 

\^'i/<7««/ay, j/j/.— We a>I— I), and I. the Littletons, the 
Freds, and the Comtek de Turenne— started in a private 
^wtor Montreal / >> > '^ 

vVednesday, Mar^ch ist.-~K Jtery stormy,* snowy day, 
extremely cold, and no admittance tO the Kink, In the 
evening thefe Was a' fancy dress; ball on the ice. The 
Count, the Littletons, land those who had not seen this 
" , i)efow, wef* delighted with the sight. It was bitterly 
cold>*«nd I was glad to skate a. tittle in a domino. I 
ilanced a set of lancers and some other things with D. 
Thursday, 2d.— Some good skating in the morntng, 
^ theK a grand lunch at Mj. Ryan% which- our three 
^ Fredericks had to leave early, as they were gbing to 
._^ joiia the fbuPth Frederick„in playing against four jafmeses. 
W/ meanLto go and see the game, but when we jtt-rived' 
,''^ «tftli^' door of the Rink we met-our. party coming out, 
' ; . vJctQriou^nd radiant. * ,>'" 

VSa/urm', ^M.— We left Montreal by the morning 

W train, taking with us the Con^e de Turenne aiidOawen.* 

. *^^*"''*-^' 7''^— The Marquis and Marquise de Bassano 

'■\Jii*'5^^«' this afternoon, just as we were finishiog a labori- 

oUs-iipl»earsal of part of "-School." « 

IVednesJay, StA.—A. cold, windy day; however, we 

went out knd skated. The Comte de Turenne is work,- 

* ing hard at the outside edge'. The Cabinet dinner took 

place to-night, and the new Ministers came for the first 

■* time. In thei^ uhifoVms. The dinner was in the ball-. 

room, ^A we .had a band to play during the evening. 

Thursday, pth.-Jix\ihc fnorni»ig we had some skating 
and ctfrl'ingi 'tKe day was btautiful and mild. After 
lufcK we went' to the opening' of Parliament. 






• My hrother, CoJpncI Gawcb R. ilamil|p»t. 

4: 



*' 



-^ 










Ik: 



242 



t 






1' 



r. 



i 



■ "*■■■ 

^fy CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



K ■ "• 



CH. XIV 

rested, as we hacfS dine'at et^'^.T: t '^^^^^^ ^^^ ^ 

I>rawing-room. afterwards nem aw so'"""' '""'^ 
at one before and T m.' /k •'''' '"'''"y P^op'e 

. Drawingroo" ^ '^^^ ""^"^ ^^ ^ ^^^^ ^^'er the 

The^iSnTte^'^Jllte^t'-'^^P-^i".-- 
the first two act. of-Schoo f """""-- -hearsed 

the evenrng the other twenTy ei^ht ' '"' '" 

and we rehearsed th. . "^^"^^^^'^^t singers arrived, 
waltz y^^^'"-^^ ^^^ «'"&'"g quadrilles, laneers and 
waltz. I he lancers went beautifullv an, ,^. \ 
very pretty . Z^'*"'""'')'' ^nu the waltz is 

ful party Th„ i ir? , ""■'"" '''" " ■""" «"<^««- 
whi^h „L I':;;*: '="' - -" '-e before our baU, 

will be very pretlv Th, h n ^ ™"'"' '" """s, 

b= l.a» beguT.rlain „' '""^'" ""^ ''"""' *'"■ "'• »"'• 
hi».i,ir ntw I bJ". "?'"'' "'"■'"■''ranee of . 
"• " Will be a nice thine- in ha«w. tir 



S 



IKAKCH<l876 



THEA TRICALS. 



had a great 
^assano and I 
>resen£ at the 
many people 
oriTious nuni- 
ice after the 

)Guring ram. 

ive rehearsed 
isfully. Mr. 

nner, aud in 

ers arrived, 

laneers, and 

■he waltz is 

T. so bright 
re would be ' 
'm Ottawa, ♦ 

and to to- 
lookers-on, 
St success- 
e our ball, 

'hite tent, 
is bearing 
I its walls, 
J in roses. 
Mr. Bier, 
• h us, and 
brance of 
went out, 
for His 
lyers hfl/| 



243 



. We dressed for the fancy ball at nine-all our house- 

, hold m costumes of the same period-and wglked in pro- 
cession up ' th'e room. The dresses of our guests were 
beautiful, and there was great variety in them the 
smg,ng.dances and the new supper-roo'm were much ad- 
' m.red, and when people went away at 4 a. m. they seemed 
extremely pleased. 

■■; Saturday,j,_^.^i, snowed hard~in fact, I have never 
seen the snow round us so deep. The Littletons have to 
be almost , dug out every day, and the road to their house 
. IS on a level with -the palings. 

Monday, ^///i.-The French members of the Com- 
' monsgave a beautiful ball ui the new Library at Ottawa 
to which we went. The room, an enormous round biiiid- 
mg. was very Avell lighted. I believe fifteen hundred 
people were m it, and there was no crush at all We en 
joyed .t very much. Numbers of people wore their fancy 
dresses. -^^^^ •' 

^''^"'•^'^•Iv.^pM.-TheComtedeTurenne arrived for 
the play. The actors dmed early in I). "s room. Th«n i ' 
went to dress for Mrs. Honeyton, in .the " Happy Pair " 
1 Wfen the " School - arrived, and began to dress i^,, one ^ 
room, and the men had another, and the guests came • 
crowding in, and got off their things in the school-rbom ' 
and there were painting and curling and excitement going 
on everywhere. 

Fred and t began the perforfeafice-wrth "A Happy 
Pajr," and had a very warm audience, which was pleas- 
ant. <'School"is a very difl[ieult piece for amateurs- 
Out r musl say that it was an unequivocal success 
Every part was well done, and it was quite neW here, so 
the audience liked it immensely I was really surprised 

;T K.V y"^'",^"^^*^ supper-room to see how handsome 
- It luukud, and It tfiiamiy.is A much needed- additioiTuT"" 
, the house, enabling us to give supper to a large patty M 



u * • 






v."' 



I 



j' 



:(■ 



244 



J^y CAXADIAxV JOURNAL. 



CH. XIV 

once. Afterwards I went into the drawing-room, and 
sa,d good-n.ght to all the beaming crowd 

Tuesday, April jith.-Snch a toveiy day. We piav 

tenn.s, walk, lunch, practice some music, drive into Ot 

tawa.and go to a birthday-party of the Littktons, where' 

there^was to. be a mag,c lantern. I took six children 

and Victoria enjoyed her first party immensely, and ap' 

Flauded every slide. When a somewhat undrap;d statue 

wa^^^bued^ she exclaimed that '< Hallie would pip 

^ ^.«^a,,v7M._Gwen, Miss Abbot, and I drove into 
Ottawa in the morning, and after lunch walked to the 
river Rideau to see the ice coming down. We stood for 
some time watching great blocks go over the Falls and 
ten «.ent to look over a bridge a little way off;' but 

the i-alls, that we returned to our original place and 

utes belTirHV'""^"'' '^' been standing a few mm' 
utes before, had been partly carried away. We sat down 
where we could h,ve a good view of the river and Jw 
such a .W,/„^, and heard.such a cras.i^ 0^^^^^^ 
hard at"" T' "'"'"^"^ °" '""^ ^P"^— - ^^^ houses 

^^ ir :;r:s^"' ^^^^^-^ --^^ -^- --^ ^^ 

T/'ursJay, May ////i.^The waters of the Ottawa are 

S.X feet higher than they have been for years.and tlere ! 

muchmore.cetocomed.wn; there are floods everywhere 

Tues^iay, MM.-The weather deserves to be recorded 

or ,t rcaly was line. bHght and sunny, and unS^^^^ 

t.,/^^'''^/^' >/»^ /x/.^io3' in- the shade. I wa.. '>.t 
k ^ n.^," a..a uvd^U my v.sUors in the garden £r!m four 



u 









JuNri876 



RIVER PARTY. 



24S 



r 



to six, wrhen it was cooler and very pleasant. They 
looked at a game of tennis, and seemed to enjoy the 
garden. - — - 

Wednesday, 7ih.-D. apd I, Nelly, the Smyths^ and 
Littletons, left by a steamer at seven o'clock -#-the 
morning, and landed at Bucki^jgham at eight There 
we saw a lovely waterfall. The river Le Lievre; a large 
tributary of the Ottawa, rushes at this place through a 
very narrow passage, and" after falling a- few feet the 
mclme .becomes more gradual, but the water tumbles 
over rocks and stones, and looks like a very steep rapii 
unlike ^ything I have ever seen before, and very beau- 
tiful. This- sight was only en passant. Nelly was de- 
lighted, and kept up a fire of joyful exclamations, which 
helped us to like getting up so early. 

After dfiving through the village of Bucki^ham, 
which was gayly decorated with flags and arches ^e got 
out at a wharf, and found a small steam-lqunch ready to 
take us up the river. We had twenty-five miles to go 
and were to be four hours doing it. There were some 
swift rapids in the river, and when we came to the worst 
ones we were told that the steamer was too heavily 
laden, and that some of us must get out. We had a good 
deal of trouble landing the gentlemen, D. only remaining 
with us. , 

The small, engine puffed away, but we made no prog- 
ress: and we got very frightened. The bell-fope which ' 
the pilot iised for giving his orders had been burned 
thrdHgh, a lace curtain haVing*" caught ,fire early in the 
day, and when he called out his orders the stoker "did 
not alWaysi seem to hean D.- tried to reassure us, but 
when we looked out and found that we remained exactly ♦ ■ 
m the same pjace— off a great rock—we ladies w«.ri> in 
-airagony or terror. Tben the boat began to -turn round, 
and the genllen>eo on shore were irightcfie<i too when 



.' ' •«' 






' ^J- 



246 



'.f 



s«^ 



^ 



MY CANADIAN journal: 



CH. XIV 

• thlT "',">■'=='■='' 'hat if we were to touch a rock or 
the br^ch of a tree, while we had this powerful s,7eam 
broad.de on, we should be_^,opp,ed over. Bythis'tm" 

^. u , . /'"^"ys race, the tears pour ne- dnwn 

as. she exclaimed, "Oh' it «,iii k 1^ """^ aown, 
d!-owned" Rn„, - '^^ ^^ horirij! to be 

^.-era,s::r:;,-rr^5^-f.&^^^^ 
a-^SnrhTrV:?:;^'^---' -'-' -^i§ 

VXe ha^d all lost our appetite through fright-and 
they had been good-for we breakfasted at Ifx.nd^t' 
was three o'clock before, we landed, still treU i'ng and ' 
had,lunch on the shor,. Afte. that we had. 'o wJlk a 
^|e and-a half to see the Fall, .he object of ou^ Jl^j! 

The walk was rough, and we had some climb.ne and 
some steep pUces to go down, and there w "e a great 

r:e"feT;rT:^'^r'^^ that after our ad': . 
ure we felt that the wate^falj must really be fine to 

was hat we could not see the waterfall for the foam 
buut really was a splendid srght. and perfectly u2"i ., 
any fall ever saw or imagined. We stood on a rJck 
about half-way down the Fall, and couJd neither see tht 
breadth nor the height of it, but only the thic^ ess of " 
't. A nver w.th a rapid ,tream passes through a vev 
narrow passage here, and issues' like a wall of wa e^ 
fram between the rocks. I f^U as if a puff of wild 

wis IT '' '""" ^"" '"^- ^^ -"t '-er Z' 
wards, and saw more of it; it Is.very high .nd very 

,,u.^fr'.''V r ''':'"''""^ ^° ""»• boat, and when w. 
virn d fu, iu mc nuug- io dr.nk We found that everything 






I' 



•i? ' 



JUNE i€l76 



QUEBEC. 



247 



had disappeared from our basket. Lucky for us that 
^ drinks had been preferred to silver spoons ! Nelly and 
I rather dreatied the descent of our friend the rapid, 
but we got down safely in three hours. ' 

We found a large bonfire burning at iJuckingham - 
and a crowd of people. There we got into the carriages,' 
and prospered till we came to a steep hill with a preci- 
pice on one side, in the middle of which our horses 
jibbed, and when they got us well to the edge of the 
"precipice," Nelly and I escaped through the window 
(a large one)'. The horses were led down the hill, and 
p. reproacl^ed us for leaving him alone in his peril. 

It was rather cold all day on the water, but warm 
when we landed. We got back about eleven, very tired • 
but, in spite of all our troubles, we were glad to have 
seen those splendid falls. / 

When we, undertook the expe^tion "(invited by the 
owner of the steamer) we did not think it would take so 
long, and, in fact, knew little abdut it. The steamer 
has only been on that run for a few weeks, anH scarcely 
anyone has seen this Fall ; but I think it is a most mag- 
nificent sight. A reporter was present, and it depends 
upon what he thought of the rapids whether other peo- 
ple are encouraged to go or not. As he was not in the 
boat, and had no friend to be alarmed about on board 
his view will probably be cheerful. ' 

Mondaj,, /^M.-Packing day ! Very hot, and every 
one melting and busy. Boxes and bags yawning all 
over the house.;, holiday for^the children 

nursJay, /fZ/i.^We started early in the morning 
by tram to Prescott, there got into the steamer, and 
had a^^easant voyage to Montreal, where we changed 
from one steamer td another, and came on to Quebec 

(? tf^'^ ^ ^-v^ ^/-./rfjV/tf/i.-Ai^ived earty,^riancfed at" 
e.ght; the^ Lieutenant-Governor and a guard of honor 






1 't / '^ yr^?^ 



248 



'Jtfy CANADIA]^ JOURNAL. 



* CH.XIV 

fh^ r^ ^ "^^' ^"" ^^ tl'tl not go out till 

the late fire-desolat.on over a large space. 

no/ T ^■'' "^<^-^^^ ^-^nt to see the temporary ac 
commodation arranged fnr fho « - ^'"F"rary ac- 

taken in c.J ^"^"5^5 f-""^ ^^^ sufferers: charities have 

PooV n^ ,T\^"u ^'■'"■^'^^^ ^"^ •^^"^-•'^ hold oth J 
- Poor peopleWho have lost their all bore their misfoTt 

the evening ^e went to see the " Busy Bees " r-rform 
They are the' officers and soldiers of the B BattS' . h 
-presented on thii occasion the Christy^Mins 7^;;' 
>ng songs, etc. ^"c.s, bing- 

J/.«^^, 7p/^._Three strangers drned with us- a 
Frenchman, an Austrian, and an Englis'hman D en 

afternoon ' '"' "" "^"^^ "'^ ^"^^^ '" 

the EltnLdTa'f ' -^'^ '''''^' ^'^" "^« ^ ^^^^^ - 
e iisi9ianade-a review on a small scale with the R 

cirr,^ r.r. y '''''^^ ^ series of hfeavy thunder-showers 

^ came on, which lasted all day '"wers 

'^'''^«'fl'',^/./._The citizens of Quebec gave a ^reaT 
dinner to the Governor-General to niUt -rf ^ 

most beautifully arran^eriH It ^ ^^he room was 
of it looked 1 Lr^^' ^^ '^^^^' ^^ ^'^^ fa^ ^"d 

, D. and his spee.h: w rr c immtu.cl> wdt rec<>ived, a^id 



•\ ' 



JUNE 1876 LOJfD D UFFERIN'S SPEECH. 



249 



he spoke very well. He began by saying, '' I can not 
help remembering under what varidus conditions, in how' 
many vital emergencies, at what supreme epochs in its 
history, during the last 300 years, my illustrious prede- 
cessors must have had occasion to harangue the citizens 
of Quebec. In a thousand vicissitudes of fortune, in 
perpetual alternations of triumph and despondency— 
• when hordes«f savaged were lurking round your pali- 
sades; when famine had prostrated your strength, and 
the unaccustomed rigors' of an Arctic winter had be- 
numbed ^r faculties ; ^when novel forms of pestilence 
devastated ydur homes, crowning your clergy arfd your ' 
sisterhoods with the aureole of thartyrdom ; when far^ ' 
eign leaguers assaulted your independence, and Tiostile 
cannon threatened your battlements— Viceroy after Vice- 
- roy has appealed to your patience, your fortitude, yqur 
chanty, your patriotism ; and never once,, whether in 
good fortune or ill fortune, as your history tells us, has 
the appeal been made in vain." At the end he proposed 
the toast of "Prosperity to Quebec." -^ 

Friday, 23d.— W^ visited t|je Sillery . Con^fe, and 
then walked into a place belor^ing to Colonel klodes. 
He has underground gardens, , which supply flowers, 
myshrooms, winter salads, etc. The Colonel, whp enter- 
tamed us most hospitably, has made quite a name foq ', 
himself as a/ practical gardener here. The view from 
^he house is lovely. ^ 

On our return home we had a long visit'lrom the 
BassanOs, who were delighted with our platform. After ■ 
dinner the soldiers had soiqe very good theatricals. 

Saturday, 24th.— T>. wefit dOwrt Ito the steameMo say *' 
a few words to the Canadian rifle-team, Viow starting for 
Wimbledon. J^ 

_L w as " a t home," aft4 tfre k^vglyfflornTqg-tOTmrd-TntTr- 

<« very bad afternoon. Thunder and ^howers and wind ' 



\L^-^ C • i \ *.u 




% 



ym. 



r 






r Si 

I 

'■ .■•I 

, -4! 



^4 




^/'K CAI^ADIAN JOURNAL 



, _. . CH. XIV 

came on, and though I had many visitor, th 
uncomfortable. Some feared for tlT' ^^ ""^'^ ^"' 
%cl thunder, and some tho ' h> i m?'' '°'"' ^'■^- 

ho^;andrsmcere,,s>;::f:;^,:,:r^^f- 

^^««''^7, ^^M.-We went to the Mil ^k " 
from u savhe procession of Jean Bam f. } '"^ 

the town on the way to the ch u^r:h ' ;"; rtV^^ 
festival at Quebec. ' ^ "'^^ 's the great 

^ye spent two hours at the Ursulin. n 
-ng prizes to the. pupil-teachers rn, T''"' '" ^'"■ 
them, and commented upon thV r ' ' 'P'^^*^ *° 

which young ladies ar^ a, uded: onr^''"' "^^ '" 
stancing the case of <• Nellie Gram ' '''' ^""^'"^"^ i"-. 

We returned homp in r;,^^ ^ ' \ 
off to Montreal, and c; "en was obi T^"" "^' ^"^^^" 

ing her han^rch.ef To tirchild ' /' "'"^'""^ "-- 
«! ■- • ^ children for several miles 



down the 
In the 
Jean Ba,. 
a great hqi 



re.7 1"'m ' '""""' «''"=" "y -he 
«re son, ifle^A?:' Cnid" '° "^^ ^"^ «'-"^» 

crepa^r^' r:td~tirer::i,tT "r^r'-^ =^^^" '- 

'ookfour children to se the uH '"""='"'• ^"^ 

treat to them ,„ visit the „„„, Tn , " '^ " ^''^^ 

.ce,ve „,aple sugar ehrough the blrs "^'' '"" ">'''■ 

<iay,a„deveo.thi„g„rbo'°V°'' '" '"e Z>.,„y, a,„veiy 
We enjoyed siiling^^LK ' Z' ."""'""^'"'^ ^"^ ™« 

fort„„l^;fh *^,^:7t!' W. - -■^- O'clock. „,os. 



^ 



,/ 



'tTO-mgrrbr fishing. 



I 



/ 



■ t rr?"^ ,i^)^iy iippvM 



Jfiv ,8,6 ^/W/*c o^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ 



'5' 

We went up ,„ i,, however_an hour's drive and ,h 

^o/ver; l:. *d art^:r :: we^n^t ,:: ^r 

ever^presen, and are'^^.e ta:,era;,e "' "'™^"" ^'= 

been invited ,o fah a^d whi!h t a";; T " '"^^ ''^'' 
ours. I sat all dav in „ "'''" "''" '^1 

took charg ouZZ":T'°-"""" '""i"^' Archie 

small devfces forkiflL ? "''"''J''' ''"'''" '" ^■''"°"» 
,„rf IT Z ^ '!""=' »"<! « eight o'clnrW n 

and Fred returned. I) hM r^„crU, r «"' ° "^'fck D. 

.ruse, the average weighrortTe^tl^^n "^ ^H; 
the largest one .8 lbs. Fred had «« salmon of ..6 bs 

nooKea, and took him two hours to 'kill 
■ •>o't7f^:ti~\" "'^ "'"'' "«-"■ -'' 'h"= can 

cnis. ij. and Fred went to ihe York n tu;. f 
got one, and Fred five Th« i ^ ,• ^'^ *""^ 

and all were over .ribs It ^^' '' ''^ "^^ ^^ •^^•' 

assembled on board a Jin aM t';"' '"'' ^'^" "« 
ner till nearly ten ^ ' ^^ "^^ ''"^ "°^ '^"'^«^d d.n- 

had^f ^afhT?' "T" P^^* "^^^^ «^h y-^erday 
M oeen caught at a pool called Miller's I pnHin^ i 

as D. found we could drive over Xr. ^*"^^"^» ^"^ 
suggested fhnf T cK " ^^ °^^'^ there quite easily, he 
t yf t ^, 1 w "^^ ^''y "»y luck. We 



brought u. to ou"!. fu^""' ^""'"^ and v;:rik;;i 

«: t u, to our pool. We itpmediately set to work! 



.'AJ K^ 



I- .i1 




k 



*. 



^. 







IMAGE EVALUATION 
TEST TARGET (MT-S) 




/. 






b^/ 












/ 




(/. 



% 



1.0 



I.I 



2.2 






110 



>- .. 



11:25 11 1.4 



2.0 

1.6 




I llUUJJ^ldJJlllL. 

Sciences 
Coipordtion 




4^ 



«v 



i 



■^^ 








N> 







as WIST MAIN STRUT 

WHSTIR.N.Y MStO 

(716) S73.4S03 









^. 



^ 




252 



Ji/y CANADIAN JOURXAL. 



en. XIV 



m 



: \ 



II 



but not a rise was to be got, and I feared my expedition 
was going to be fruitless. We gave up tliis "good" 
place, and went lower down the river, and I very soon 
had the pleasure of a rise. I stood up in the canoe to 
throw the fly, and sat down to manage my rod when the 
fish was on, for it would be no joke to ups'-t the boat in 
these swift rivers. I landed my victim with success, and 
he weighed 21 lbs. I tried once more, and caught an- 
other 24 lb.s. D. and I then had lunch, and I returned 
home at four, while he fished on, and brought two more 
salmon home in the evening. Fred was fishing higher 
up the river, and we hoped he would have had a 
good day; but he had not a rise till five o'clock, when 
he came down to the place where we had been in 
the morning, and immediately had three. He got the 
third on, and was just happy, thinking it secure, when 
his reel broke, his fish went, and he had to come 
home. 

We had a very jolly little dinner when we met again, 
and enjoy being comfortably on board after our experi- 
ences of the " Hush." 

The owner of this river, with his party, caught fifty- 
seven salmon, averaging 2.3 lbs., the first wei'k he was 
up here ; but, hoping for more, he went a long way higher 
up to camp at the " Narrows," and we have just heard 
that after four days there they have only caught three 
salmon. Mr. Reynolds will regret this expedition when 
he sees what good fishing we have had close to his 
house. 

Wcdntsday, ^ih. — This was a lovely day, and we arc 
assured that two or three days " of this " will set our 
river right. We went ashore "to shop," and 1). visited 
two schools, and after lunch we fished for " Tommy 
cods." We all sat in a boat and fished over the side. 
The excitement was in the variety of the game — sea 



JULY 1876 



THE ST. JOHN RIVER. 



We 



toads, blue fish, flat fish. Tommy cods, smelts, 
brought home a bucketful. 

Sunday, p///._We went to church in the morning, and 
in the afternoon took a most lovely walk. The weather 
was beautiful. 

Monday, loth. — This morning Fred and Archie start- 
ed for the Bush, and D. and I went to fish the lower 
pools, intending to sleep here, and to follow them to- 
morrow. 

I), went on foot, taking with him a little boy to act 
as guide. On the way, this boy told him that his father 
had been drowned two months ago, about twenty miles 
up the river, having slipped into a rapid as he was push- 
ing some felled wood into the stream, and that his body 
had never bee.i found. To-day, when fishing from a 
canoe, I), hooked a salmon, and the man had actually 
gaffed it, when it wriggled over the stern of the canoe 
back into the water. Knowing that the salmon was a 
dead fish, X). paddled slowly over the pools below. All 
of a sudden, as he was looking over the side of the 
canoe, he saw lying at the bottom of one of them, in 
about fifteen feet of water, the body of the poor man. 
It was in the same condition as on the day of his death, 
having been preserved in the ice-cold water. 

I had a canoe and two men to myself, and beg; .1 the 
day well by getting several rises and three salmon. I 
thought I was going to do wonders ; but salmon-fishers 
are never sure of an hour's «' luck." D. came from his 
pool to meet me. with four fish, and we landed, and were 
devoured by mosquitoes during lunch. I began again. 
and whipped the waters, without even a rise, till 6.30. 
On my way home I tried a new pool, and got fast to a 
salmon, whit h gave me very hard work and the greatest 
anxiety for half an hour, for we were on the brink of a 
very iroublcsom*; rapid, and I wanted to keep him away 






254 



MV CAXADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XIV 



from that. Then some parts of the pool were very deep, 
and in others there were logs and traps of all descrip- 
tions ; so that I never felt sure of my fish till he was 
landed in the boat. The salmon on our river are smaller 
than those on the York, but they are very strong and 
lively. This one kept rushing off with the line, and 
jumping up in the air so far from me that I could scarcely 
believe he was my salmon. D. had eight salmon, and I 
four— a great day's fishing. 

Wednesday, 12th.— \). did not go out this morning, 
and sent in his .stead our captain, a nice old man, 
who has never caught a salmon in his life. He re- 
turned at two o'clock highly delighted with a twenty- 
Iiounder he had landed, and which we have sent off to 
his wife. 

Mr. Reynolds and Mr. Middleton, who left their 
river to-day, came on board, and had lunch before em- 
barking for Quebec. Mr. Reynolds gave us his score, 
which I copy for the sake of those it may concern :— 



Salmon-Fishing on the York River, 1876, 

Salmon Ihs. 
His Excellency .... 8 

Lady nufTerin a 

C.ipt.iin Hamilton . . . , fi 
Mr. Molson • .... 14 
Mr. Mitlcllcton . , , .50 

Mr. Reynolds 29 

Mr. Grant i 



»97 

45 

US 

326 

1,094 

37 



Average 

24* 

24J 
23? 
2lJil 
31}} 

37 



Total , 110 a,47o 
General average, about 32^ lbs. 

We are rather afraid that, now we have come down, 
our fish have g..ne up the river. 

Saturday, 131/1,— \ went up the river with D. and 
Fred to ra^ch trout. D. was very anxious to make up 



f \ 



CH. XIV 

ere very deep, 
f all descrip- 
h till he was 
er are smaller 
y strong and 
the line, and 
:ould scarcely 
salmon, and I 

Ihis morning, 
ice old man, 
life. He re- 
th a twenty- 
c sent off to 

10 left their 
h before em- 
us his score, 
oncern : — 



Average 
34* 

'41 

ailt 

a; 



come down, 

I'lth D. and 
to {fiakc up 



July 1876 



ARCHIE'S BIRTHDAY. 



255 



gnlse When we returned to the ship we dined, said 
good-by to all the men, and started for Tadousac 

Monday ijtft^-W^ were in sight of Tadousac about 
one o clock, and immediately shrieked from our steam- 
wh.stle to report ourselves to the children. They came 
down to the beach to meet us. 

Tuesday, /^V/;.-_We keep Archie's birthday to-day, so 

a haycart, a buck-board, and a horse were ordered, and 

. and I, hve children, and Mademoiselle packed into 

the cart. Archie rode, and Fred, Mr. Dixon, and the 

provisions came in the buck-board. We drove to a 

place where there is a small waterfall and a mill, hmched 

there, stayed till it was time for a cup of tea, and th.n 

mounted our carts and drove 'Tound the Concession." 

i he buck-board broke down, and we had to borrow a 

cart. As the road home was very rough, the fun of the 

expedition consisted chiefly in the fearful bumps we got ! 

All our plates and cups were smashed, and I felt much 



* York Rii\-r, 

H. ^ Salmon 

IS hxccllency g 

Lady Dufferin [ j 

Captain Hamilton (^ 

Total . .16 
Averagi', i:^\ ll,s. 

St. John. 

His Excellency .^^ 

Caplnin Hamilton ,, 

Lady DiiHcrin •....'.' 4 

Our Captain .... * , 

Total J , ,jQ 
Average, I7,«g lb». 



lbs. 

11)7 

•15 

148 

3yo 



546 
217 

53 
30 

836 



w: 






*f flj 



2;r) 



MV CANADlA.y JOURNAL. 



CH, XIV 



IM 



bruised and shaken ; but th^ children enjoyed it im- 
mensely. 

Thursday, 20///.— We left Tadousac to-day, and had 
to say goou-by to Archie, who now goes to school in 
England— so the first break in our home circle is made 
Parting with him took off rather from the distress of 
parting with the others ; though even from them we 
shall be away some time. We left in a great shower and 
thunderstorm, and had to anchor some hours in a fog. 

Ottawa: .1/t>//^av, 2.////.— Delighted to get to Rideau 
in the evening. Found the weather cool enough for 
fires. 

25th-2gth.—T)^^ week has been spent in arranging 
for our departure for the Grand Tour. A great differ- 
ence of opinion e.xists as to what we shall want at route 
Some say take provisions, others say don't We de- 
cided, however, in the first place, to have a box made 
to hold plates, cups and saucers, knives and forks, tea, 
salt, etc. Then we take cases of preserved meats, a 
basket of eggs, some butter, Devonshire cream, and ja'm 
and we have a refrigerator in our baggage-car. So we 
sha n t starve, as we can add our own delicacies to the 
tough antelope steaks we are to get on the way. 

Mr. Reynolds has taken the greatest pains about our 
comfort in the railway carriages. Fred Ward arrived 
Saturday night, so we are now ready for our departure 



CHAPTER XV. 

ACROSS THE CONXm.NT ANO A.ON. T„ P.CP.C COAST. 

Grand"'S/"-''-"'f~/ ""^ ""=8'" "7 accoune of this 

:: ■:^;':o';f ::r'' -r-'^ "■"^''- ' "^^^^^^^^ 

amta to De put to our piles of lusr^raee -i hlr>.v f.u 
UDon us Dr r'-n^t 11 . . "ft>t.'*b<-. 'I oiow feu 

upon us jjr. Grant called to inform me that Mr^ 1 ifM 

I went over to see her, and found her dreadfidlv di« 
appomted, but a little comforted by the f n ^^^^n 
.". us when she recovers. To me.^^^^^J:^^; 
as a party, she is a great loss-she is alway so cheV 
and so ready to enjoy everything; ^ '''^' 

(nends wl,„ c.-,mc to wish us " rooj.by ■• fv, h" '^ 
whole rull,„a„ ,0 ourselves,..,,,, L ' 'nwin'rooJ:'." 

r. t.,r,.r'^'ii ^t't """■•'■ -"- "•"■''-'■» 

ton's ,„ I "^^ '' '""''^ "'■■•''' '"''"i's Mrs. I.ilile. 



>(!.,!: ■ 



li.I 



258 



M V CA NA DIA N JO URXA L. 



CH. XV 



live in it by day, when the top berths shut up and dis- 
appear, and the under beds turn into seats for four. 

At Prescott we lunched in the station, and then re- 
turned to our " house-upon-wheels," and really began to 
live the life that is to be ours for seven days. Here I 
was introduced to the American reporter, a very nice 
young man, who comes with us to give an account of 
our tour in one of the New York papers. During the 
day he became so enthusiastic over the delightful pros- 
pect before us, that he made known to me, through 
Fred, his desire to invite a charming young lady of his 
acquaintance to share his enjoyment of the trip, assur- 
ing him that, if only I would lend her the shelter of my 
name, no more active chaperonage would be required 
of me ; and that her mother — too delicate to undertake 
such a journey herself — would be perfectly satisfied 
with this arrangement for her daughter. He proposed, 
with my approval, to telegraph at once and to arrange 
for the girl to join our special train at some station on 
the way. — Hard-hearted, prim Englishwoman that I am, 
I felt obliged to discourage the scheme ! 

Our next amusement was our five o'clock tea. Mr. 
Reynolds had made us a most ingenious " portable 
kitchen," and we all sat and watched our kettle boil, 
and were extremely particular about scalding our tea- 
pot, etc. We had an excellent cup of tea, in spite of the 
watching and the number of cooks ; so we set two 
proverbs at defiance with impunity. 

I Have a comfortable chair (between the railway- 
couchos), and I sat in it, did a little work, read and 
talked till eight, when we reached Coburg, where we 
had supper or dinner, whichever you like to call it. 
The evening is the least pleasant part of the day ; the 
light in the cars is not sufficient to read by, and we do 
nut always feel inclined for games. 



AUG. 1876 



CHICAGO. 



259 



fucsday August nt.-\S,. ,,ept pretty well, though 
often awoke for a moment by the unusual sounds and 
shak.ngs. Ue crossed in our train to the American 
side by means of a forry opposite Sarnia 

When we were dressed, and our carriage turned into 
Its day condition, we got ready our breakfast ; the public 
had theirs at Sarnia. A most excellent meal we had • 
fresh-boiled eggs, which Fred Ward supenntculed ; tea." 
Mr. Reynolds s home-made bread, our own butter and 
Devonshire cream, potted meat, a cold chicken, rasp- 
berries, and jam! We enjoyed it all vcrv much, which 
accounts for my telling you so much about it. 

We were so warm and so dusty by the end of the day 
that the sight of Lake Michigan, and the pleasant fresh 
a.r irom It as we passed close to it into Chicago, were 
very delightful. Crowds of people were bathmi. and 
we longed to join them. When we arrived at the Palmer 
House Hotel, we were shown into the most gorgeous 
smte of rooms: a drawing-room with marble statue" 
satin curtains, embroidered chairs, gold and carving and 
P.ctures; admmg-room furnished with verv prettv ligh 

bath::::rrf\3:r:r'"^''^^v'^-^'^^'^^''"'- 

beds in it f ^ ""• "■'''' ^'^'^ "'"liciue" 

beds in It, for a dressmg-room. ^\; settled iyto these 
magnihcences as well as ^ve could, but I think we -atle 
agreed with my maid, who said that at the end of a 

h^H ^'^V'■"' ""' ^"^' ""^ f^'^-' '•■Hlinedto be 
' bothered with so much splendor - 

witJ^K^'l" '; "'~'""^ ''""^ ''' ''■"^'■"•^'^ breakfasted 
t^.k V' r^"''"-^'" ,,,, ,,^.j,„^ Mr. Palmer 
00k a tender farewell of " Mr. and Mrs." Dufferin. as 
I'e called us, and Mr. Forrest and his daughters (old 
acquaintances) also saw „s off and T ,s-v J \ \ 

to Mr Cf T„U.. .... ,.. ' ' ' ^^'*" nninduccd 



to Mr. St. John, the C.lobe reporter. Tl 



18 



le Chica 



g« 






ii 


l! 


W 




■ :l 


i 



11 1 



260 



AfV CANADIAN JO URXAL. 



CH. XV 



ilrl 



morning paper speaks of me as " Her Royal Nibess," 
and says that I do not wish my " hubbie to go and see 
the ' Nausty ' man," Brigham Young. It also reports 
that we went to bed early to " save gas," and that " if our 
money holds out " we shall go to the Centennial. 

We had rather a pleasant day: it was less dusty, 
some of the country very rich and well cultivated, vine- 
yards to be seen, and nice little homesteads; we saw 
some prairie land, and in the evening stood outside our 
car to cross the Mississippi. There is a beautifully light 
bridge over it, 2,260 feet long. It is a sensation to see 
this river, of which one has heard so much; and a great 
river can't help being striking, but there is nothing 
grand in the scenery at this point. 

We lunched and dined at stations, Burlington being 
the principal one at which we stopped. After dinner we 
played whist, and all agreed that we had got over the 
day very well. The people we have seen traveling so 
far get out looking very dirty and crumpled, and one is 
quite tired of the sight of brown holland ; every one is 
attired in it; you might think it was a livery. 

Thursday, 3d.— Wit had a very bad night—stopping 
so constantly it was almost impossible to sleep— and I 
was not, therefore, in good condition for trying the 
" hotel car," which was put on. There seemed to be an 
excellent meal provided; but the room was hot, and 
smelled of food, and I longed for our own little quiet 
breakfast. 

At ten we reached Omaha, and crossed the Missouri 
—such an extremely mutldy river, it excites no desire to 
bathe in it. Carriages awaited us here, and we drove up 
to our hotel, and chose our rooms; they really are very 
good for this last point of civilization, before the prairie 
begins. 

D. and I took a drive to see the town, and we sat on 



AUO.I876 TIIE PLATTE VALLEY. 



, and v.-e 8.'»t on 



261 
of Omalia arc very „e,v ,vi,l T, """>: "'<■■ ""'ee's 

an'::ti,^^^^^:;^'v^:-f;:"""-"i"^a„u„ad 

'!. 1 to ,s,t „,th every wimlow „,,c!>, an.l vel fresh 

Here. »e are r,s,„g all .lay, goi„K sl„„ly over the 
Kocky Mountains; ,l,e train ,n„ves at an easy lor. 'f 

'y'Tir^r '""""«'>"• "■i">' evervti;',r We 
passed throush the Watte Valley, the rivr' I'lat'e run 
n.ns at some distance fron, us all tiay. The , e ,er ii 
no l,ea„t,r„l, is iutcrcstiu,. a srcat' sea of , ^'ry 
na hut w,tha„o„dsoil,a„d ffiviu,. one an extriordT 
roorinT..'" " ^^"""''"-"f "- country and o, .l,e 
We lunched at Fremont, and dined at .....nd Island 

sTi::"^\'''T'""'f"'™""^'^'"''-'"'"i"'.^^^^^^ 

st.i I..US. My Idea ,s that it is excellent ; the renorters 
"■"1 my n,aid think it i, disRus.ins. This di fere cc , 

r;:;,:?^ 7'*';"^r- » >■'"' -'i-c ^ n,:,;; di 

tier, jou „.|| nnd ,t bad; but I want neither meat nor 
w.ue, and can live „„on the thiugs winch we «et Ud 

butter, eggs, fish, an<l ,ced cream '-the latter, at the 
most unprom.sim-lookiug stations, rivals Gunter, We 



262 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL 



CII. XV 



• 



generally have a tal)le restrved for us, and at Fremont 
a very smart negro, with a beautiful iieacock-feather 
fan, brushed the flies away whih; we lunched. 

Saturday, j/Z/.—We slept much better last night, and 
J did not even awake when we were stopped l)y— the 
grasshoppers ! They get on the rails, and, being squashed 
there, oil them, so that the engine can scarcely pull the 
carriages along, as the wheels don't bite. 

When we did awake, we found ourselves on the 
Rocky Plains, a delicious wind blowing, and not bring- 
ing the dust to us. 

I got out at the station, where the people were break- 
fastmg, and looked about— a scene of desolation ; and 
yet when we look back from the train it does not appear 
so desolate: great plains of dull-colored grass, broken 
up by rocky mounds, which present a wiiite api^earance 
to the eye; in fact, a part of the Rocky Mountains. We 
have risen 3,600 feet since we left Omaha, and I suppose 
the delicious air makes everytliing appear amletir de rose. 
We have seen flocks of cattle, and four antelopes. The 
curious thing is, that you see cattle apparently quite 
near, but on consideration you realize that they must 
be very far away, as you can not make out the details; 
a man on horseback that you fancy quite clo.se, looks 
like a stone moving. There arc no trees or houses, or 
any object by which to judge distances, and the atmos- 
phere is wonderfully clear. 

This is very like being at sea: the wind whistles 
round the car, and the land round us is flat, with white- 
crested waves of rocky sandhills, while the air is most 
exhilarating. But I must not, under its into.Kicating in- 
fluence, fill up my journal with rhapsodies. 

We lunched at Cheyenne, and were met there by the 
Governor of the territory, Mr. 'I'hayer. There is a large 
hotel at Cheyenne, and it is "quite a place." After 



AfG. 1876 



TIIR ALKALI PLAIXS. 



263 



terest of tl.: pla.n, w.th its little prairie do^s to watch 
he gophcrs-a sort of .^round-s.purrel-and an occa 
sonal antelope; then the plain broke up into undulatnig 
h lis and heaps of rock, a few scattered trees, and the 
magn.hcent ran,.e of Rocky Mountains, with patches of 
snow rehevMig their blueness, in the distance. Some of 
t .e '. heaps of rock '■ look like ruined castles, foJtl e 

b oken Altogether, I think the views enchanting, and 
I breathe the a.r w.th pleasure. At Sherman we re:;ched 
our h.ghest point (8,363 feet), and scon after leaving it 
we went over u very awful-looking structure-a sort of 
skele on bridge, w.th.n.t a parapet, across a ravine 

Ihe wmd,of which there is a good deal, blew off the 
I'd of our precious kettle, but luckily we stopped a mo- 
ment after, and it was rescued. 

.SV/W<;v, ^///.-The scenery early in the dav was u-dy • 
sandy, desolate plains-'' the Artemisian Desert," Tt is' 
called, or "the Alkali Plains" 

Breakfast and lunch, at Evanston, were served by 
John Chuumen.- They wore clean white blouses 
oose blue trouser.s, and stumpy embroidered shoes the ; 
long p.gtads twisted round their heads and fastened up 
T e r He.ght, the.r dress, their ha.r, and their singularly 
m.ld expression, make tl.em very feminine looking It 
Evanston there were some very Indian Indians-hide- 
ous brown squaws, dressed in brilliant rags, waiting at 
he doors of the railway carriages for gifts of food ' nd 

them 7 he Colonel set up a coin on a stick for them to 

c rk off'/h ttT" ^f ' '" "'^^'- "^ ^'- knocked te 
cork off a bottle without touching the bottle 

we ler'ef '"!'".'' '°k' f '''* ""'''' '^^^'"^ ^— '"" 
vvt were to watch with "full breath and anxious heart" 



If 



fl 




264 



v'/r CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XV 



for the magnificent scenery now about to burst upon us 
as we pass through the Krlio Canon, or valley \c 
cordnioly, we sat out on the edge of our baggage-car 
anu if we were a little disappointed at first, by the even- 
ing we were well pleased, and felt that we had really 
seen a most curious and (part of it) beautiful place We 
came down hill through the valley, starting from a great 
upland of the Uintah Range of the Rockv Mountains 
I he railroad seems to divide the countrv into two parts 
for on one side, rising imnicaiately from the track were 
green, sloping banks, while on the other were gi-antic 
hills of rough, red stone, twisted and tilted and tumbled 
into every sort of strange form-castles and pulpits 
monuments-all kinds of devices seemed to stand before 
us. We remained the whole afternoon watching the 
views develop as we passed the various points ; the beau- 
tiful part was when we distanced the details, and when 
the green and the re<l and the curious shapes become a 
broken mountain range, opening now and then to show 
us miles and miles of mountain and plain below. 

For several hours we had a little stream close to us, 
and as the day i)ecame very hot, the river seemed most 
refreshing, ami added a foreground of fresh green to 
the magnificent views in the distance. We passed the 
Tiir)usand Mile Tree— 1,000 miles from Omaha— and 
close to it "the Devil's Slide," a curious geological 
formation ; two natural walls of rock down the side of a 
'nil, with just sufficient room between them for " Him " 
to slide through. 

A short time before we got to Ogden we came, as it 
were, through the Rocky Mountains, passing quite close 
to patches of snow, and looking back upon a very much 
more rocky appearance than the mountains have from 
the other side. Now, do you understand that from 
Omaha the country gradually slants upward towards 



^- CH. XV 

I)tirst upon us 
)r valley. Ac- 
^"' bagjra|re.car, 
St, by the even- 

wc had really 
^iful place. We 
ij( from a jrreat 
:ky iMoiiiitaiiis. 
into two |)arts, 
the track, were 

were ffi^^rantic 
'(1 ami tumbled 
-s and pulpits, 
:() stand before 

watciunjT the 
iiits; the beau- 
ails, and when 
ijK's become a 

1 then to show 
below. 

in close to us, 
seemed most 
resh jrreen to 
^'c passed the 
Omaha — aud 
us H:eol()gical 
I the side of a 
1 for " Him " 

e came, as it 
\^ quite close 
a very much 
is have from 
id that from 
'ard towards 



AUG. 1876 



on D /CAT. 



265 

these mountains, and tliat the railroad mounts to . 
KMght of 8 34. feet, after winch it suddenlv desce ids' 
l^u you realue that now the nvers How thj oth " t' 
and that we have crossed the (Jreat Ran;;e ' ^' 

An .American j^eneral came to have tea, or rather 
ced water ,n our car, and stayed till ue reached O.^den 
\ part ron; our car and our two conductors Iiere" 
1 e ,a,ard (as we should say in ICn.huid) and the port^- 
-by name and by nature Mr. llrown-belon,. to th 
part.cular Pullman, and have been most attentrve o 
on he way; but the lines of railroad chan^. ,,, .„ 'J 
we have to j;et into another car. 

We had arran,.ed to sleep at O.^den, and on arriving. 

fully hot, for the weather ,s very warm. The village is 

:usrTh;":''''^M^'"^'"^'''^^^^^''«'^^ '••'•---'- 

"'"sc his is on the way to Salt J.ake Citv and this 

Pbce. almost full <.fA...nuuis; so, of course.\;C Fed 
and I took a bttle walk, we fancied every two won • 
we saw together were collea.ue-wives, and ev y , s 

:x:;rf;:::;;r^^^-^"^'^'----^--^'-^ 

roon^"?'' ^''r''" ''''' ^^"■^>- ''"- •''-' --'-V ..four 
roon open, and so .spent a tolerably cool ni.ht. 

A t lie ,„,rmn,. we sat on the platform of the station 

Oi.r .Irivor tavo „s m,„l, i„f„rm.-,tion ,•,, ,v,. „,.nt 
"l""K. sh.nv.,! „s ,1„. I,„„s. .,f ,, hisl,„p „,,„ „„. . ' 




ise 



le 

'Rh 



ved JJriirh.i 



111 \' 



»<'und that the Prophet had 



'"5^. 'I'he A 



if ■■' 



■I'l ' • 
m 4 



mLTicaii 



married a relation of his, for 



266 



A/y CAXADIAX JOVNXAL. 



CH. XV 



on hearing his name, and where he came from, lirigham 
Younj; saiil: "Oh, I nuisl have married your father's 
sister, but 1 had forgotten all about the family." This 
reporter thinks no name bad enough to apply to his new 
relation. 

Ogden has no time of its own, but keeps " Kast '* 
time for one train, and " West " time for the other. A 
perpetual sum of mental arilhmetie goes on, and \vc 
were constantly forgetting by which time we ought to 
go, and trying to remember whether the "left-hand 
clock ■' or the " right-hand clock " was ours. 

We left in the evening, and found our new carriage 
very comfortal)le, though it has (mly one " drawing- 
room." We sat at the end of it— the last of the whole 
train— and passed by moonlight along the banks of the 

Salt Lake. 

Tuesday, Sll. —We are going through the Alkali 
riains. and the dust is dreadful : a large, rt)ugh dust 
covering everything in a second, and very iiainful to the 
eyes. As I write this my paper is like a jiloweil field, 
and, the wind being very high, one can only see a few 
yards for the clouds that surround the carriage. 

'I"he only thing that grows on these .plains is sage, 
and a " sage-bush " here is tlie worst name one can apply 
to anv vegetable growth. 

UWiiesi/(n\(^t/i.—\\'e. got up at six this morning in 
California, the sandy desert changing into a mountain- 
ous district covered with i)ine and oak, parts of it laid 
bare like a great tpiarry by the mining for gold. As 
one looks l)ack niion the country through which one has 
juHt passed, it seems perfectly impossibl that the rail- 
way should really have made its way through such ste«'p 
and perpendicular rocks, whidi sectn more I'ltteil for the 
^\|ni5,^ ,j;>v<'U'r with his helpful stick than fur an immense 
long train like ours. 



2eps " Kast " 
lie other. A 
on, and \vc 
\vc ou^ht to 
.■ " left-hand 

'S. 

new carriage 
le " (h'awing- 
of the whole 
banks of the 



is mnrninjj in 
I a monntain- 
irts of it laid 
for KoU]. As 
whicli one has 

that the rail- 
ijrh such steep 

fitted for the 
"or an immense 



AIT,. 1876 



'ROCXD/.\G CAPE //OA'X. 



267 



'Ih 
Tliere 



«-' point of interest 



IS 



IS 



;» "p;»th " just wid 



roiiiuiinj; Cajie Horn. 



e eiioii'di fnr th 



round a precipitous rock, and one lo.,k^ 
upon the valley far heiieatii. '11 
find the skeleton bridj^c 
can see throuj-h them, and tliey niak 



e' railway 



s strai^^ht down 
"^ is very t'lm.- but I 



s very tryinjr t„ the ner 



m.i,^ sides, and are 



from the ;^rn,iin(l. Xowell 



so very weak-look 



ves ; one 
e no attempt at hav- 



m^, and so hij^di 



wh 



en he kept sayiny 



expressed our sentiments 



HkIu bridj,M 
" A ver 
Th 



y K'ood 



" A \ 

bridgt 



, as we went over the last 



ery weak brid 



Re, 



W 



very 



e are over it. 



c country now be,t,nns to look rich and park-iik 



and at the stat 
offered to us at t 
'I"he Colonel 



"•ns the most en( 
wo])ence ajiiece. 
w 



P 
• rmous i)eaches are 



as talkin;; to a cert 



train yesterday, and we hear that tl 



man has been arrested fo 
fi 



im man on the 
lis morning the .said 



r murder. He and otl 



re to Chinese establishment, and shot th 



lers set 



pie as they came out. 'II 



e wretched peo- 



le murdered were"onlv"CI 



so It is supposed that a small bribe will get tl 



nnese, 



le assassins 



We lunrhed, very badly, at (>)lfa.x, where tl 
grizzly bear at the station, and then returned t 



figes for a hot, dusty afternoon. 11 
that our long journey— of nine days— wa 
and packed up the things i 
ready for our arrival at San !• 



lere was a 

o our car- 

owever, we felt 

s near its end. 



n our " liouse-on-wheelt 



Mr.s. Littleton tel 



rancisco. 



1 am 



so so 



rry. 



egraphs that she can't come at all. 



Having washed off the dust, am! made oursel 



smart as possible, we prepare to "land " at 
tion called Oak lands. Captain Chat field, tl 



ves as 
a small sta- 
le captain of 



H. M.S 7,;,.//,,,/, Mr. Hooker, the Kngli'sh C,.nsul'; and 
Mr. ^^alkem,a Untish ColumhinM, c;,me "on board," and 

e got into a large ferry. 



escorted us to our hotel. 



W 







2G8 



MY CAXADIAN JOURXAL. 



CIl. XV 



steamer, which took us over to San Francisco. Our ho- 
tel is the " I'alace," and is enormous ; it is built round a 
court, which, by the way, is loaded with American flags; 
there must be at least five hundred of them hunj;^ about. 
Our rooms are very nice, smart and clean. We took a 
walk while our baifjj^ajfe was beiiifj brou},dit uj), and looked 
at some shop-windows ; but oh I it was so cold. 1 had 
on my lij>;ht " train " jfarments, and the wind blew throuj,di 
and throujrli me. I saw many ladies in furs, and have 

now ordered out mine. The climate is treacherous 

that is to say, that of San Francisco, for it is a promon- 
tory, and its climate is ililTerent from the rest of Califor- 
nia. Wo went home after seeing some second-rate shops 
and quantities of Chinamen. We shall not be able to visit 
the Cliinese ([uarter on this occasi(;n, as the small-pox is 
very bad tiiere. 

(Captain Chatfield, who has kindly made every ar- 
rangement for our comfort on boartl tiie Amethyst, dined 
with us, and we went to the play, and saw the " Oeneva 
Cross." The theatre is a very good one, and we enj()>ed 
the play; though I, at any rate, began to feel the effects 
of having risen at six and traveled day and night for 
many days. 

IVuirsJay, loth. — Breakfasted in the enormous dining- 
room, and were very glad of a fire in our sitting-room. 
Received visits from Mr. Bradford, the artist ; Captain 
Chatfield ; and a lovely basket of flowers, with " Wel- 
come to California," from an ok! Nortli of Ireland 
friend. 

At one o'clock 1). and 1, the Colonel and i'rcd Ward, 
drove off to see the sights. We went to Woodward's 
Oardens to see the sea-lions fed, but were too late for 
this, and so, after looking at an aquarium, we resolved 
to go at once to the ClilT House. This is a hotel over- 
hangintr the Pacific, and js a great resort uf the peo[)le 



AUG. 1876 



s-'i-y fA'Axasco. 



169 



here 1 o ^ret to u you drive thr„i„.|, the P-irl. , 

which has been reclaimed from h ^1 ' •'^'''" 

"f the orimnal deserf U ' , -'""'-''eap, specimens 

^-•ery morsel f eut ,.' /'^ ""^^''^" "" ^" -!-• 
beautiful road has i m t, '"''V"^'^^'^^' ^" ^'-- «Pot ; a 
arc actually growi " , ^ ■ ' "^' ''''^^''^ ^'^^^ ^-ass 
'balcony of the C ff ""l^'--"'sin,^ place. The 

0-n.lchanmu^''\:;:::'-^-;;-';;^-e..c.hc 
jr-at rocky islands, upon which .^^^^l'''''''' 
t"e sun, and pelicans stand combin,. t r f e ,?' '" 

I counted seventy-one sea-lions f, *'''• 

some were dry, and of •. n ■ 1 ' '""" ''' ^•'"■^'J 

-re still wct'iookLr^mtr . :" ^f ^' "'r^ "-'^'^^ 

very like tiKU of luun. s in t^^^^^^^^^ 

ann.sin, to watch them climbmi;;;^-^"-^ 
">.',^ "1 and out of the sea an,l 1' '''"^"^f^N J"mp- 
fe^enerally. The pelicans f' '"•'"^■'"^' them.selves 

takin, headers in/T h! iu :"' t^" "^'"^ i''^-^ -^' 
clistance, wluch prevcm J our s "'1 ' '''''^" '" ^''« 
^Vc lunched at his u, . 1 "^^ '''^' '^'"^ ^'^w. 

oysters, "Porter-^ so :t' "!:••" f -'^"-^-' fare: 

'^ii^andevervwh e ::::;:'';'^''"^'--'eofa 
""r drixer " beat - do n t c\ '■' ''""'^ '"■"■'^' ^^^^ 

to side all he va Mr'V; '''r'''^"'"^^'^'-«-^<^ 
wood, and have nrdi , " '""^^'^ *''^'-" ''""t of 

arcunulmills for pul ^'^^^ P-c sand, and there 

- -twelve of thi:rtr;r;;;n:: :;->-•- 

One curious thinir here i« - ^/"•^/•''- 
tlio top „f ||,„ ..ill „,,, , ■. ,'""" '» 'I" I'liKMic „n 

« ...v.»i:.:e >his „„.,,,,,,,., „,„, : ^; ;,;;^'-"P« 

liaa an odd effect carnages 



Jl 



ii 




270 



^fy CAXADJAX JOURXAL. 



cn. XV 



(.cncral McDowell, the hero „f I5ull Run, dined with 
us, and we took liini to a special i)erformance of " lirass " 
in our honor. We had a ^^ood box, and enjoved that 
very ridiculous i)lay. 

iX and I took a walk, and on our return we found a 
most stanch old man fr.nn Killvleagh. He is con- 
nected with both our families, having been called Hans 
after D.'s grandfather, and having been taken on board 
my grandfather's ship when he was thirteen. It is ex- 
traordmary how he remembers everybody of that day— 
the very old times. Me put me tNrough such an examina- 
tion as to my great-aunts, uncles, and cousins, that 1 felt 
some self-satisfaction at having passed it. He thought 
me like my family, but said the ancestors did not come 
out so clearly in Fred. 

This man has been mining for forty-five years, and 
now declares that he is going back to the "old place" 
to buy a little property and die there. I dare say " going 
Home" IS a dream of his, and that he expects to start 
by every steamer; but the gold-fever is difhcult to 
shake olf, and, even if lie does go, I fear matter-of- 
fact killylaugh will be dull after years of Californian 
gambling. 

This interview ended, we had to begin to prepare for 
departure. The gentlemen had to get into their uni- 
forms, and there was great agitation over a missing 
bit of uniform, and a frantic rush to the tailor to make 
HI) the deticiency. We breathed again, and were all 
gloved, booted, and spurred, the luggage and servants 
gone, when I peeped into His Kx.'s room, and discovered 
an enormous bath-sponge unpacked ! Fred and 1 were 
m despair over it ; we ungloved, and wrung it, and 
scjueezcd it, and reduced it to its smallest possible com- 
pass, and then we did not know what to do with it. 
Could I in state, could he in uniform, carry a vulgar 



AUG. 1S76 



"' -'/. ^V. AMETHYST. 



271 



sponge np into .,J.;t;r rC^^^^^^^^^ '■-""- 
and carry it so- "I, m;„l„ , """>"'«■ s lur mat, 

i^ i«ing nrcci ••: .. r,f„„t'. ",.;"" ^'"' ^^ "'^' •'""■■-^ 

"f ••". emiuy c,a. b t!,H ^ '''"'">■'"'■""■• ^'■■"' 

find for it?" '• ""'" ''""■■'■ 1""™ can we 

wither i;™,Lr;; ";■; ;;;;;;'-' ■"-• -^ --0 «,isfied 

ruler of tie Canadi-.n i^ • • ""t the dcNpotic 

"'«l-furc„atat,,a„d;a„dX , r™:;"'^'''''' 
to a vulvar newspaper parcel I, , """"" 

"' Hie fur cat a „v r ",, '"■■'" ""^ -''eltcr 

re<:eive,l with rj p "t^T "''■■''"" '" ""' '"'"'• ""» 

'-I With care b .X /.ctir"™'"" '" "-'-". was 
war hoat, and was ur t ,e "r"''"^ """^' '"""-"f- 
^hip l.y one „f hi Xs „ ""•' '"" >"-"«c ,„ the 
leave it lying .nnocentiy-,'^;:":;,';,"';" "T"'" '" 
lency stepped .,„ b,,ard .l,i Z I "" "'' '■•"='" 

veyed to the proper ..nar^c;:;; '^ f'^,™ '\;"^ .- 

seamen. ^ ^ ^'<-' -Majesty s 

^Ve sent two nieii-sprvnnfc ■ 

- the party on b.::c™:X.V'"'''r^^''"^^' 
I. Colonel Littleton, the Vn.Z^T''' " "" 
maid), and "John.- ' '^''-^^ ''^ ''-'-bander * (n,y 

The captain has talcon -i i... i 
clivided it into two f J'^' '''^■^""■'' '"-^ ^■•■""•>'. and 



Is 




2/2 



^/y CAXADIAX JOURXAL. 



cir. XV 

an ecuilateral triangle, that a small angle at the top or 
Po "t ,s my mauls room, and that 1). and I, two ron 
beds, and a large chest of drawers, inhabit t e bas of 
he saui triangle. Captain Chatf.eld has been m kind 
n makmg everything n.ce-pictnres on the walls, mu 
-vered dressu,g-table, etc. We remain at an ho i| 

mvS!^"''f •"""' """^^ ^""^^^^'^^ the spirit of 
n^ ream i U appears to me that the raciHc is i nasty 
ocean. I g.,. on deck, and lie and sit and do.e all day • 
the men ,ook pale, and are not in good spirits ^ ' 

than?'- ■' ^V" ''''''' '' ^^'^'^ - »-^i- "c-ean 

ami he aptam s cabn. the least nice ,)lace one could 

I '-bly be m The screw thumps and vibrates direc ly 

nder U. and the pitching is longer, and in it one has to 

air wh>ch IS so very trymg to the inner man 

JAW..r, /^//;._Got on deck, and lay in a cot swung 
under a tent of Hags; every one better, but not we 1^ 

mys h!:^ r,:Tf • ' l'^''' ^--^ ^^"^ -^y >'>- about 
myself, had I not heard the Captain say that we " shipped 

ffreen seas nearly the whole wav over; so I feel tl t I 

bad a r,ght to be ill. Mexande^ got ;erv n.t ^ e 

by he screw and I awoke in the night to'hear her cry 

"U the t aptam s cabm. 1). h,lped her in there and 
asjhe (..pta n ciid not awake, she lay herself down n 
tlie door under his cot and slept. 

rurs,/av, /,-///.-Things look better. I dress and sit 
down a,, eat, and soon begin to walk, and! L'k 
abou w,th pleasure. We coast all the wav, and the e 
a.e strange, dangerous, isolated rocks sticking up oil 



AUG. 1876 



ESQUIMAULT. 



^71 



of tlic sea. A linn f ti,- 

miles) betivcc. V„, '' "'"'■■""' '^^''"""el (ten 

capped ra„j-e of moi^'a!,:' ' "' ' ^'""'"''' — 

l.as no, arrive.,, and ^ ayt" a::..'";' '";'" "^""'^■' 
sooner than we were o.vpeald '"''"'>-'">"• '"".rs 

l™t very deep ," , '1 ' '*'"""" "'■"■'>'"-. >ery small, 

Pressed with :,;'„:;:: ;"," '"'""' ""^ ""■"■ ^""-'y 

monntains in tht , is an ., ■""" "" '"'"'■ ""'""'^'1 

■I'he eirlvn "''"'"''■ '■■I'armnig weather. 

."ai. -eanterwhSch"^,;, :.;;;:-•'>■ '"" """« <>- 
sl>e arrived with ,n,r servn' • ''"""'■'•. at twelve 

"Hon. I, Nowei, d tirHr'c''",?.;:;"-;-:'-" ^' ""-■ 

to His E.vcelle„cv •■ ,,,', ■,''•'"''•■■ '^''''••''•■le-tamp 
should have dmel I ' r *' '"'' ""'"''' I"-*', as they 
ceivetl „y thetL'e'ei';;""-^' '"'' """"■ '-" "'"' - 

wcn?.7ro,;:b:':;' ;;.;,i';"^'"r,;'' '''"■'"""'"■«-« 

-..e.ashort-"-;^:--:;j-.a„d 

■'■-•arria,et':,,;:;:\:a •■;:'i;;'„t''::'^":' «"' ■"'" 

«:rew into an enormnnw „ ^ 'ct„na. We 

^'^at city (it i t In r ^"T^^T '^^•'"'■^ ^^'^^ ^-^-''^'i 
J ""Iff I's. At one p„nu aion;,^ the route 



drcssej arciicr.s, siicli 



lit from the wood 



a party of ma-nifiecntiy- 



^is you have /w/ seen 



off th 



le St 



age; 



274 



A/y CW'ADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XV 



green-feathered hats, green velvet coats, breeches, b,V 
boots, bows, arrows-really very handsome-looking peo- 
l^Ie. They formed an escort tlie rest of the way Far 
ther on we picked up a band of horsemen with'red rib 
bons across their breasts-a company in green-bands 
-some mihtia-an army of small boys, each carryin.^r ^ 
bright-colored flag-my "body-guard." The men who 
wore the colored sashes saluted in a curious fashion bv 
puttmg the hand to the mouth. \Vc went over 'two 
bridges, both ornamented with green and with various 
flags and devices, whence we saw a number of the Indian 
canoe.s, winch here are shaped like gondolas, full of peo- 
ple and covered with flags; the Indians were singin.r 
and we were sorry we could not stop to look at them 
longer and to see them nearer. 

Then we passed through the Chinese quarter of the 
town and saw a number of the men and a i^^^ of the 
very funny little women. The Chinese put up their own 
arches, and they were very prettily desij^ned ; thev hung 
up lanterns in some, and on one there was quite a house 
ful of httle .mages. When we entered Victoria there 
was an address. U replied from tiie carriage. At pres- 
ent the feeling here is British, but anti-Canadian, on ac 
count of the railroad, which can't be made yet ; .so it is 
not all plain sailing. We were told that on one arch 
here was written, "Our Railroad or Separation." The 
Governor-General was obli.ired to refuse to ,,.o imder it, 
though he said he would do so if the " S " were turned 
into an "R"; and one man who found we were makinr. 
a turn to avoid the street with the obnoxious arch jumped 
about as If he were mad, and when he met us above the 
arch he jumped again, and shrieked, "Three groans for 
Mackenzie I " 

I think every one of the 5.000 inhabitants of Vic- 
toria must have been out in the streets, and we drove 



AUG. 1876 



VICTORIA. 



275 



at a foot's nace to fiw. r- 

been lent to u. a;""'"'''""?^ """-'* -'^ch has 

two hours and a ,',f "^ ^"^ "^'^ "^-■'■^" ' ''- ^'-c lasted 

cessK,n'pasIed''lKn)'t' l"^""'' ''' ''""^ ^''^"^ ^^e r,ro- 

reception of him • ,' ; ;'?*"^^ ^'^^'" ^'"- ^hcr 

looked about. 'I'he'ho s. i ''''■^■^".''>' ^^'^''^ ^^<'"^% and ue 

bniiard-roon, and excelle,u\:r Jr'Tr'"' '^^^^ 
nese cook, who is I <rriev,^ t, ,' "- ''''''^ '' <-"hi- 

cooked for six vl,:^ V^ ^^' '''''''^^'^^-^^Z 
'--'lystvle;AlS^^^^^^^^^^ 

comfortable ort of L s ' "'"" '""" ^ '^^'^ ^^ --y 
Chinaman under her r I^!";' '' '"''''"'^'^' -^" ^ 
'"an, and a gardenerJh t r '.'' '''''"''' ' ^o^^^-'- 

to-day that I will ,;,;'. V' '' '" "'"'^'^ ^" "^"^^ 
were verv tired a it' ^'^T"'^'"" ^'-"^-'-"w. ^\'c 
to bed. ' "'^'^^' ^"^' ^^-^'-^ ^^l-d to go early 

In the evening the Chinese quarter of fh. . 
'"ummated, and all their houses ''" ^'^" 

went in just as they lik.^ • ' "''"""' = P'-^^P'e 

meats. . ^ '"^"'' ""^ ^^'^--^ S'ven tea and sueet- 

arock.butVnUga::^;:^:r:-:^^--'^^"-;ton 

to It IS the want of water Fv. ' "" drawback 

and garden, has to l^e brou.^ V "';' '"'' ''"• '^""^^ 
mi-ch to spire -ind M ^ " ^'"■'■^'' ^ •'^" there is not 

windows tSi':'vt!:;^:;;r"i^--^"p- ^-nuh: 

ains, a little wanting ^tlrv•^"f;•' '"'"^^^ '''^ "^"""^■ 
''■■^^h. Mount Bakef .';."' ?r''"^'' '^"^ ^"^tremely 

* The Hon. Afr Rirhnr i. h ~ ^ ' ' 

I-ieutenant-Governor, had not'vof'.r^' '■^■<-'n only recently appointed 
^^ not J ct occupie<l Government 1 lou.sc. 








MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XV 



i'. interviewed peoi)ie ixum. ten till five. They are 
very anj^ry with Canada, and he has n.ird \vori<. About 
five I got liua to come and talce a little drive. We called 
on the Lieutenant-Governor — Mr. Richards — drove 
through the city, and as our drive was unofficial, went 
under the obnoxious arch, and round the "park," JJeacon 
Hill ; from the coast-road there is a very fine view of 
the mountains. Captain Chatfield came to stay with us. 
There is a bright sun, but a cold wind. It seems to me 
a trying climate, and the many changes of temperature 
and food, and the long journey, have rather knocked 
me up. 

Chief Justice Sir Matthew Begbie dined with us. He 
is a very big man, very amusing, and the whist-player of 
British Columbia; however, on this occasion 1). and I 
beat him thoroughly. His mind was, I suppose, distract- 
ed, for I found afterwards that he had planned to sere- 
nade us, and had arranged for some young ladies to 
come up at 9.30 to sing with him at our windows; so he 
was all the time listening with one ear for the sound of 
wheels, while he was attending to the trumps with his 
eyes. At last D., who had just gone away to do some 
business, heard voices in the garden, and with well- 
feigned astonishment rushed in to tell me. We brought 
the singers in, and gave them tea. 

yv. :/(/)', iStJi. — We had a dinner for the Lieutenant- 
Governor and his wife. The other guests were Mr. and 
Mrs. Bunster (he is the Dominion M. P.), Mr. and Mrs. 
Roscoe, Senator and Mrs. Macdonaid, and the local 
Prime Minister, with his wife, Mrs. Elliott. 

Saturday, /gt/i.—\), kept, busy till within ten minutes 
of dinner-time. He is working -.^/y hard. At five o'clock 
I ga /e hm !ip, and took the Commodore and the boys a 
drive. Wc ,\it to the Gorge. The roads here are 



good, and 



ily. 



AUG. 1876 



OUR CHINESE COOJC. 



277 



In the evening we had a Drawing-room at the Parlia- 
ment Buildings. The officers of the rteet helped to make 
a brdhant Court, and it was very largely attended, and 
was most successful. Six Chinamen came, and the-r 
names greatly tried the gravity of the A. D. C. who had 
to read t!icm aic^ud. 

AfonJuy, 2/'f.-~l walked for an hour with I)., and the 
whole of the rest of the day he was shut up with various 
people. One deputation stayed from two till six. I was 
"at home," and the Commodore helped me to receive my 
visitors, for Fred was deep in invitations, and the others 
were with D. In the evening we had a dinner— Mr and 
Mrs. Trutch, Mr. and Mrs. Crease, Mrs. Grey, Mrs 
0'Reilly,the Ministers Smith and Vernon, and the Mayor 
(Mr. J. S. Drumniond). 

Tucsi/ay, 22J.— As usual, the morning was spent by 
D. in seeing deputations and visitors of all kinds. 

We had an afternoon-party, and I received the guests 
in the garden. We had a band there, but in a very short 
time we adjourned to the house, and danced D was 
released about four o'clock, and was able to lead off 
the ball. Six Chinamen came, and looked on with great 
interest. The party broke up at 5.30, and we had a 
dinner, beginning at 6.30, and had afterwards to attend 
a concert held in the theatre. 

JlWm-s^fay, 2jd.~l have just received such a funny 
visit. Our cook, Ah Sam, has been lately married and 
said he would like me to sec his wife; so she came this 
mo ;jng. The door opened, and in walked a Chinese 
lady, dressed in black satin, wearing bracelets and rings 
and with her hair wonderfully done; and supported by 
her came a little creature with a baby face, who evi- 
dently could not walk alone on account of her tiny feet 
her hair very much dressed, and ornamented with what 
appeared to be a cap of many-colored cut papers ■ she 



i 



HI 



\m y 



iif 




l' t 




2;8 



MV CAXAD/AX JOURXAL. 



CH. XV 

wore a blue tunic with embroidery on it, black satin pet- 
ticoat, bracelets, and earrings, and had rings on her bits 
of hands. This was the l)ride. We got her into a chair, 
for she seemed at first incai)abie of even shaking hands 
without help, and for some time she appeared to be on 
the verge of tears, and half covered her face with a red 
sdk pocket-handkerchief. It was a little embarra.ss.ng 
or us all. Ah Sam kissed my hand, and brought in a 
tray full of presents: two packets of fireworks (whr a 
w.U be awkward to travel with), some gimcracks they 
use m their churches, a Chinese crpe handkerchief, and 
some shell frames. We looked at these and thanked 
ly'^oul then he went away, and we began to talk to 
the bride, who by this time had somewhat recovered 
She was really a very pretty little thing, with a bright 
complexion, pretty eyes and teeth; and she answered us 
very nicely m ICnglish, and cpiite understood D.'s j„kes 
as to the respective merits of her hairdressing and mine 
I'oor baby that she is. she has onlv l)een married a 
week, and has not known .Ah Sam, who is an elderly and 
very ugly gentleman, much longer. When leaving, she 
kissed rny iiand, and then made a set courtesy at the 
door, just like a child who had learned its lesson. 

At twelve o'clock we went in carriages to see a re- 
Ratta. which was to be held at the Corge-an arm of the 
sea which spreads out like a small lake, narrowing at 
each end; its shores are rocky mounds and wooded 
banks, and on them there were knots of people in every 
direction. Across one end there was a string of flags 
which, with the background of mountains, wood, and' 
water, looked very gay; a number of boats were <|n(t,.d 
about. an<I arranged in three groups were twentv large 
canoes, filled with Indians, and covered from siem to 
stern with flags. It is impossible to conceive anything 
'nore brilliant than the scene was, with a bright sun 



Ave. 1876 



/f£GA TTA. 



279 

sinning over all. As soon as the Indians saw th. ( ;,.v 
en.or.(.enenUappn.achin.tl,eysetupanextra,. 1 ; 
how , and jumped about, stampn^g and clapping ^ 

^Vegot uuo a man-of-war's boat, and mwed about 
amcmg them, being greeted bv each set with f Is ' 
t-t.ons and acclamations. There were ab.n, ^^i 
people m each canoe. Most of them had tC^^" 
l>a.nted-br.glu red being the favorite color. S L -u 

a streak across the face, others patches on their c^U 
1 ., ,. '^'Uiici nc(i. I hev also wore colnrf/l 

r»t"r,;,''"' "■''■■ "■">•--'-'-" -" 

TlHTc wtTo ,,cmc exccllcm races, f„„r „r llvo „f ,h. 
rfie .anoes ,„ a race, tlu- .non rmvi„„, „r rather Jl 
|llmK w,.h all .l,oir ,„i«l„_..„,|„y strokes a „,i, „ ^1 
leaving quite a sea behind them. 

There was. too. a most e.xciting scjuaw race. \\c> 

owed alongside most of the way. and saw the wonu., 

^vHl; one crew consisted of rather nice-looking voung 

ones, but these did not win. ^ 

Many <.f the s.p.aws wear hand.some silver bracelets 
and a certain young lady. Amanda by nan.e. has pron.^ 
i^cd to try and |u-ocure me a |)air. 

The Commo.h.re came home to dine with ns, and we 
- a party. U'e were obliged to d.sn.iss ou; guest! 
athe. early, as we en.barked after thev left. We dmve 

t"WnmauIt. and when we got into the boat the three 
rnen-of-war suddenly illnminate.l. At the end of ea,h 
arc a blue- bght burst into (lame, and everv port was 
I'yI'tcdnp: there were also .some rockets ' 

/W„r. ,4tl,.-A was awoke alx.ut seven bv the 
tluimp, thump of our .crow, and fnund 
on our travels. We passed tj 



We were again 



irou<'.h the C.eorgian H; 



ly. 





WSOKS 



280 



A/y CAXADIAN JOURNAL. 



CII. XV 



and had all day the most lovely scenery. One part of 
tlu; lime we were in a very narrow channel, and could 
almost touch the rock ow one side. About fcnir we 
reached Nanaimo, and anclKjred in its harbor. We went 
out to fisii for salmon, and beini,^ unsuccessful, we stopped 
a fishing-boat to ask if they had caujrht anytninj^r, and 
the owner immediately introduced himself as a County 
Down man. He ran away as a boy, and now turns his 
hand to anythinjr here. He i)ointed to a half-breed fjirl 
on board, who, he saiil, was his dau^^hter ; adding, "Of 
course, she's not like any of us, but she is a very tjood 
girl." 

Friday, ^^///.—Directly after iireakfast we landed at 
Nanaimo; it is a small place, but the inhabitants gave 
us a very kind reception. A large scpiare place was 
built up, and decorateil with Hags and evergreens, and 
at one end of it the school-children were placed. I'here 
was an address, and then a song, written for the occa- 
sion, was sung. 

We went to the coal-mine, looked down it, and came 
on board our ship again. 

We left at one o'clock and proceeded on our journey 
north, reaching Tribune Harbor in three hours. 'J'he 
gentlemen rather expected to get some shooting, and 
directly we anchored every one ajipeared in sporting- 
clothes. !)., the Captain, and I went in one boat, and 
landed where there was an Indian house. The inhab- 
itants promised to show us grouse and deer, but directly 
they had put us in the track they went off at a gallop 
with their own guns, and we sup|)ose they intended to 
kill a deer, and to bring it on board to sell. 

We tramped on through the narrow path, climbing 
over lallen trees, our only pleasure being the beaut ifid 
view as we looked over the bay in which the Aiiuthyst 
was anchoretl. When sunset was app.'-uaching, we turned 



One part of 
I, and Could 
[jut four we 
)r. We went 
I, we stopped 
iiytniny, and 
as a County 
JW turns his 
If-breed ;j;irl 
Hiding, " Of 
a very jjood 



AUG. 1876 

back. I), and the C 



BUTE LXI.ET. 



281 



three grouse rose, the first we had 
perched ujjon a tree, and sat tiler 



)mmodore had just unloaded, wh 



en 



seen. One of them 
e, so we said, "for the 



pot," and the CaiHain loaded and shot hini; h 
was lost in the thick shrubs t 



owever, he 



hi 



m. 



'l"h 



c rest of the jKirty had no butt 



lere being no dog to find 



they were much pleased with themselves for I 
bought some fish from an Indian; they found, h 
upon their return to the ship, ih; 



cr sport, but 



lavmg 



owever. 



the refuse of what had 

and tiiat a great sii|)ply of better and cl 

hc>^\\ laid ii 



ip, that they had purchased 
already been offered on board 



lieaper ones had 



SiUurday, 26//i.~\\\i started in tl 



ni 



ight, and when we came on deck in tl 



found oursel 



ves in lUite Inlet. Th 



ic middle of the 
le morning we 



e scenerv here for 



forty miles is perfectly lovely. The channel bet 



th 

th 



e outer belt of islands and ll 



e water very deep. On every sid 



le mainland is narrc 



ween 

)W, and 



ered hills, exhibiting the great 

outline, and some of them capped with snow, 



e rise high i)ine-cov- 



est variety of fo 



rin and 



Unfortunately the weath 



every mile we went, so that somet 
tops of the mountains for a fe 



ler was bad. and got 



mist descended upon t 



Rot worse 

imes we only saw the 

w moments before the 



linte Inlet is expected to be tl 



icm and they were lost to vie 



w. 



Canailian Pacific Rail 



le terminus of the 



way, so the (loyernor-( 



aine out of his way to see the harbor, 
the most beautiful green. We saw several 



cascades coming down tl 



leneral 
e water is 
glaciers and 



I'h 



anch 
fish 



ored we set out to fis 



jump so very close to one bef 



K' mountains. Directly we 
ever saw so many 



I n 



' I' "" '"-'.> ^""'»^' 10 one Delore; however they 

woidd not look at our tenipling spoon.s, and we <'aught 

rif if It I ■« .» ^ 



nothin 



On shore we saw the inost pict 



was an fiuiian wrapped in 



ures{|ue figure. There 



a scarlet blanket, and with 



«mmm 



282 



A/y CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



\ ii Ji 



CH. XV 

conical hat on his head, perching upon a large stone, his 
arms clasped round his knees, lie looked like an enor- 
mous rol.ni redbreast. \y went to speak to him and 
when he got up we saw that the red blanket was al,n..st 
his only covermg. He produced an old sock, fr„m 
wh.ch he extracted with pride a written paper, signed 
by an l.nghsh admiral, which informed the reader that 
this Indian was a decidedly bad character, but that he 
had behaved better than usual on some i)articular occa- 

SIOIl. 

He was in the act of making a "dug-out "- a canoe 
carved out of a tree-which lay on the shore in its un- 
'in.shed state. I), looked into his hut-a miserable 
place open at two shies; a woman and three cNldren 
and a quantity of dried fish, were in it. We gave the' 
man what tobacco we had in the boat. 

Smuhy, 27///.-..\nother misty and rainy day. We 
had a very nice service on board at ten o'clock, with 
good singing. We at this time were still in the Sound, 
and the scenery was ve.\ r,ne. but for about three hours 
<n the afternoon we were in the open sea, and there were 
doubts whether we .should not have to keep out to ^ea 
f«.r the night, to avoid a very nasty bit of navigation in 
the dark: i,ut the g„od ship ^//;/,//„,v/ went verv fast 
ami we h.id the pleasure of anchoring at eight in Safety 
ilariior, and having a (piiet dinner, 

We found our tender waiting us here. 
Monday, ^.W/.-We started as usual about davlight 
•"><I again passed through narrow channels and most 
bcautilul scenery. .At ten we had some gun-practice, 
and saw shot, shell, and case hred at the rocks on shore. 
I he latter is used for thing at boats, and as it leaves the 
Kun It l)reaks up into small pieces, an<l powders the 
water all over with scraps; a boat coming off could 
scarcely escape being hit. The sailors equippinl them- 



^ 



AlHJ. 1876 



MIirLACATLAII. 



283 



selves for war, with swords and j^.stols, and the doctors 
l)rei)arc(l for i)roken legs and various wounds. 

We arrived at our anchorage about four o'clock and 
as usual, this sporting community i)rei)ared to fish and 
to shoot. We were surrounded hv steep, high, pinc- 
c-overed hills, so Fred Ward, Mr. Rowe, and a half-breed 
determined t<. shoot for us a deer or a bear. Tho Com 
•""'lore, !)., and I went fishing, but another boat-load 
made for the little river before us. 

The bear-hunters shot a goose, the large boat-load 
caught SIX trout, and the Commodore and 1) took a 
tremendous walk through the bush, and succeeded in 
.getting to the top of a very pretty waterfall, which 
sto|)ped the.r farther progress. They saw tracks both 
of deer and of bear. It rained, and 1 remained in the 
l)oat, and did nothing. 

r.u's^hjy, .v//.-There is very little to tell of to-dav 
for the weather has been desperately bad-pouring rain! 
and much fog. Wc have seen nothing in the wav oj 
scenery, and had it not been for having our tendc'r to 
IMlot us mto Metlacatlah, we should have spent the 
">«lit at sea ; however, here we are safe at am hor 1 
saw one little sea-beast to-day; i, jumped clear of th- 
water several times, and showed itself plainly_a sea- 
otter. 

Metlacatlah is one of the most successful of Indian 
ni.ss.ons. Jt >s entirely the work of a Mr. Duncan, who 
whe.i hecame here found the Indians in a most savage 

/^/^tlfflflmt II.. I.. !■ • ^ 



condition. Jle has lived entirel 
i-egarded by them as their fath 
liear that the inlliience he h 



Is 



y among them, and 
er and their friend. I 



done, is wonderful. 
^^'e fired a can 



IIS, and the real gooti he I 



KIS 



can came off to see us. II 



lion directly we arrived, and Mr. I) 



iin- 



aiid enthusiastic, guud a.iu cl 



e IS vei-y pleasant— bright 



Wl 



ever— quite a model \\\ 



IS- 




wferoiijsi; 



( ; 



! i 



284 



MV CAXAD/AX jOURXAL. 



CH. XV 

sionary Coming to these Indians in their most savaL^e 
and debased condition, he has Christianized and civU- 
•>:ed tliem ; he has not only taught then, their religion 
and the three R's. bnt has hunseif shown them how to 
biM d, taught them how to trade, to mal<e soap, to sin-. • 
IS h..r ch.ef magistrate, and, as I said before, thdr' 
father and friend. 

He came to MetlacatUJi from Fort Simpson with fifty 
Indums. settmg up a new village on this spot ; now 
here are e.^ht hundred living here. When he first came 
the Indians were some of them cannibals, and all ever- 
c.sed the most horrible heathen rites and ceremonies, 
cssed nj blankets, wore painted masks, had several 
■ves, and knew no law. Now Metlacatlah is quieter 
than a wh.te village of its .size; the Indians themseh's 
are pohce, and they form a council, which settles all 
tneir iocai matters. 

Arr Duncan amused us by telling us how he once 
bought a schooner to take furs to Victoria; he started 
as Its captain, and his crew were Indians. Neither can- 
ta.n nor men knew anything about the sea, and the 
voyage is a „u)st difticult one, and .somewhat long for 
they were out a month. *" 

U\ul,u'sday, joth.-lt was delightful, after vestcrdav's 
ram. to find a lovely morning, and to .see the beautiful 
sc-enery of this place to perfection; but I must tell vou 

cTthh ''"' '""' '"'''' ^" ""' ^'^^"'"^^'•"'»i?'-*''f Mc^tla- 

We started in boats directly after breakfast, our Staff 
being dressed in red, to please the Indians. As we an- 
proached the shore they (the Indians) fired off two can- 
n..ns. and when we landed we f,>und a very respectable 
KiKud-of-honor ready t.. present arms; a Imarded place 
had been prepared .u, the grass for us to stand on and 
round It were all the inhabitants of the vilhure 



Aur,. 1S76 



METI.ACATLAH. 



They had received 



285 



them before 



"o notice of our intention to visit 



our arrival last ni^^ht 



the inhabitants were ab 



so th 



t-' greater part of 



were „„i,. „„.c„ ^. ^1^::^"^^^ ^ -" '-<= 
Mr. Uimcan presented me will, a silver brirel,.f 

-i-rs.in":it,riL;t:/i:::; ;: r:!^.'''^;;'''"' ''.'-^ 

was shot „ueside his d„„M„;he til,::;"'- "'"='"""^" 

ppglliii 

C , I ■ son ,eacl,es .he «irls ,uu| .rains .hen, L \„^ 
'" ■ "'" '"' "•'"'• "e nex. sa,v .he •• Cuneil R, T" 
••"Hi ,„ ,. a |,e.„li,,r fireplace, which they havl „ »,' 
c«ta„es, a,Kl which ,, w,.„l.| like ,„ pn.'i, le , 

center of the room, with .he ,l,in„,ey ,|ir,.et|y over it 

•r;:!::,r;:it!i."'r:;" -:" "^^ ■-" ™...es 



carry 



gymnastics for the boys 



>usiness of the place. Outside, th 



ere are 



The I 
painted 



'ris 



*>n stands opposite; it is a funny 1 



two rooms, tl 



Ihun th 



ijlack l)elovv and wliite above. I 
ic " bhick " pris(in beiuL' 



le" white." (hi th 



e t 



y little tower, 

t is (hvided into 

niore diH^racciul 



"P of this building there 



IS 






f ' i 




mms 




2 86 



MV CA.VAD/AX JOURNAL. 



en. XV 



a stand fc.r the band ! The Church comes next, and is 
quite new, Iiavin- been built entirely bv Mr. Duncan 
and the Indians. It is ,20 feet long bv' 60, and is 50 
feet h,i,di; ,t IS made of cedar and cvpress, and is I 
suppo.se, the only building of the kind to be seen any- 
where made by people so lately savage. It holds i 200 
people, and is very handsome inside. Of course it is 
"lade of wood, and is perfectly simple, but the propor- 
tions and the simi)licity together give (juite a grand 
ettect. '' 

Tiie School is another very good building, and round 
us walls there are te.xts and pictures. The pupils all 
learn to read English, which they prefer for readin- to 
their native tongue-their own words are so very long 
1 hey translate what they read into Tschimchyau 

At. Duncan has succeeded in educating them up to 
the Idea of having separate bedroom.s, and houses to 
theuKselves, mstead of living five or six families together 
<>> one room; and the first of his new houses has just 
been put up. We went into it, and were received bv the 
master and mistress; the former presented me with one 
of the masks they used to wear in their dances The 
house was very nice, the floors and part of the walls 
covered with a kind of native matting 

After making the tour of the village we returned to 
•;: 1' ''^'"'•-»- ■■I'c people collected round, and .sang 
('od save the Queen,- and some English songs, and 
then a song about .Mdlacaliah. composed bv Mr Dun- 
can, and set to the air of " H„„ie, Sweet Home "• also 
some English and Tschimchyau hymns. An Imlian 
then read an address in English, and the chiefs signed 
.t m our presence. D. replied, Mr. Duncan taking down 
his si)eech, and translating it afterwards. He speaks 
their language perfectly, while many Englishmen only 
learn a jargon called Chinook, which is a sort of " pigeon 



ALT,, 1876 



FORT SI MP SON. 



287 



«-l.o may have sickness a,„„„« Uk-,,, ,„ ' T 

put "l> a saw.n.ill, ami 1 tl.mk 1 '1 , "" '''■" 

n-kos„ap;,,,e,;ac,e,.sus„\, ',::,'''?"'"■;- 
» piece the width „f a (l„irer ■ Tl is „ , '' "" ''"' 
"-king a. prese,,., and t he ,.,d C ^ t"""''- '^ ""' 

;o .he sh,p a,u, asked f„t s„a,., n;",?,:;' ,:;"';: 
-^ -then. stat,o., .r Bntish .,„:;: :;rL;;;: 

We went there in r)ur tender thn /j / 

is most beautiful. ^ '^^ view from the Fort 

Unfortunately, the (Jovernor of the Fort nul tl 

.e.ate„„t.;ea::ii-:,r--::;^-...... 

<■ 10 ,,:ii„„ , -' "'>»-, lOOK Us tliroMfrh 

the village, where we saw for the fust tim.. c 

p..ie!'''n™,':'.^:™,r °r ,"" ^""- "■••■' ■■'" ™— i-o 



on Its breast a 



wings spro.uj out, niul 



on 



ear 



aked baby or imp; undcrnc 



wni 



ith 



K and 
was 





288 



MV CANADIAIV JOURNAL. 



% 



iJj : I 



CH. XV 

nailed a long cloth apron ornamented with buttons 
Another j^ole had a dog at the top and a queer face 
carved below. These poles are said to cost the Indians 
about ^300 apiece— that is to say, they will give away 
blankets to that amount for the privilege of i)utting 
one up. ** 

We went into some of the houses ; they consist of 
one very large room, with the square fire in the center 
the rafters being made of the most enormous trees' 
His Ex. spoke to the Indians, and they made a reply 
which Mrs. Morrison (who is a half-breed) translated 
_ We had a very short time to stay here, and were soon 
m the Douglas again, on our way back to Metlacatlah. 
Mr. Duncan and Mrs. Collinson dined with us. An 
Indian chief came with them in order to present D. with 
the hat his father used to wear in the feasts and dances. 
It is three feet high, made of strips of thuja-bark plaited 
together, and jointed so as to sway about with everv 
movement of the dancer. The man valued it very much 
and Mr. Duncan told us that, although he has known 
him for years, he never saw the hat before. He says 
many of the others had presents ready for us, but we 
had not time to go to the houses. 

Thursday, jyj/.—We were to have started at day- 
break, but there was a thick fog, which only lifted at 
9.30; after that the day was beautiful, and we had a 
splendid passage over to Queen Charlotte's Islands. I 
suppose this is the wildest place I shall ever be at. It 
is solely inhabited by Indians, and as yet there is no 
missionary among them; but Mr. Collinson is coming 
here from Metlacatlah. 

We anchored opposite a village which, in the distance, 
looked like a forest of bare |)()les. These poles are 
heraldic, and are the monuments to chiefs that I told 
you of before. ICvcry house seems to have one— and, 



SEPT. 1876 A TRADIXG SETTLEMENT. 



289 



as I think I said, they are hi-hly valiied-as symbols of 
rank. Some are carved the whole way up with v,ro. 
esque figures and faces, some are painted ; and in many 
houses the door is a part of the pattern of the pillar 
and IS an oval hole, through which you see the pictur' 
esque Indian figures appearing. When a man dies 
h.s friends destroy his house, leaving the framework 
and the pillar, and make a little hut for the dead body 
to he in, with a blanket nailed before it We ivv 
one with two canoes outside, ready to take the owner 
across the ''silent lake." On one house were two fig. 
dcntly' ' '"' ''"'' '"'' ^'■"^'^-^'^^^^-'"i^^ionaries ev^- 

Friday ScptnnU-r /./.-D. and the Commodore started 
at SIX m the morning, with some Indians, to try and get 
a bear, but they saw nothing. The Freds and I went to 
a httle trading settlement, where an American is buying 

shore t.' /'''"' T'"' '" '"^^^ '^"^ '^-'"^^ ^^°"^ ^'^e 
shore , the day was lovely and warm, and we had great 

fun bargaining, buying silver bracelets and carved bowls 

from them. They have a market at Victoria, and ask a 

good dea , but the American knew what we ought to 

ff.ve ; and when we came back to the ship, and exhibited 

our bracelets to an Indian who was trading here, he did 

not seem at all pleased, and would not let me have 

another bracelet which I wanted so cheap. It was so 

amusing on board to see all the buying and selling g.nng 

biscuit","" f"""^ "" ^'"^hes, soap, tobacco! anci 
b sc uts bemg exchanged, while hideous faces, painted 
black or red, looked up from the canoe. 

The people here all .seem to paint their faces, and 
tley wear blankets, which they, unfortunately, buy 
wlute so that they are generally very dirty-looking' 



is rather sorry now that he did 



of ihc fun li 



ere. lie returned 



not stay aiul see mn 



at 2 I'. M, 



and 



re 
we are off 



tyjMg 



290 



M Y CANADIA X JO URXAL. 



cir. XV 



again. You may sec by my writing that the screw 



work 



IS at 



Saturday, ^,/.— We liad beautiful 



able to enjoy th( 



weather, and 



rough. A fog this 



evening; but the night wa 



were 

s somewhat 



whetl: 
ha 



er we could g(j on at all, 



s mornnig, and manr doubt 



s as to 



or w 



heth 



er we s 



ve to go out to sea-a very unpleasant prospect 
' just turned back, when we met 



had 



Doug/t 



hould 
We 



'as, and, as she dr, 



show us the wav. W 



iiws less water, sh 



our little friend, the 



e were off Yhwca 



wanted to pass between it and th 



e undertook to 
uver Island, and 



came on 



e mainland. 'J'he fc 



)L'' 



very thick, and we lost sight of the Doi/o/as 



and stopped again ; then th 



we were 



e mist suddenly lifted. 



immediately able to go on at full sijeed 



and 



great delight and relief t 



o us al 



There are two th 



dians. One is, that at Metlacatlah 
creasing in population, whereas 
they are diminishing in numb 
I told you about the hid 



ings I forgot to say about the Ii 



they 



are rapidly in- 



m 



women have their lips .stuck out, by 



old 

of wood, which are put in when th 

changed for larger bits as th 



most other places 

ers. Then, I don't think 

eous way in which many of the 



times the tablets are the 



means of pieces 

ey are babies, and 

ey grow old ; so that some- 



as such. In the case of too hot 
upon this convenient dumb- 



e size of a spoon, and are 



usee 



the mouth when 
lower 



cool 



a morsel, it is laid down 

umb-waiter, and is tipped up into 

Other women have a hole in the 



p, through which a silver pin appears; th 



movable ornament 

The fog this morning detained 
found it impossible to get to the harb 



IS IS a 



us so long tliat we 



had intended to stop the nigbt ; so it 
termined to anchor in Alert B 



did. We had an h 



or, in which we 

v.'as suddenly de- 

ly, which we accordingly 



landed to see the Ind 



!0ur to spare before dinner, so 



we 



ian village there. We found 



SEPT. 1976 



ic screw is at 



ALERT BAY. 



2gt 



great number of people, sitting in front of their houses 
-large bu.ld.ngs, with whitewashed fronts. The w'e e 
wrapped ,n blankets, with handkerchiefs t.ed roundup 
'cads. \\e walked straight through them to the hst 
-use wh.ch was the ch.efs. Ch, the smell - Th 

ritd:7'^^''''^"-'""^'"^'-'-'"^'"^'-^a 
rner it, and uhen we went in we found a great square 
room, with fires in three corners, and three set of " 
pie sitting round them. In the center was a wooden r!' 

w: weiur't'"''*"^ ^" '^'^ '-'' '^^ -"--^ -^-- 

\Ve ^^ent up to one group and saw the chief, who how- 
ever appeared to be stupid; and his son was ing o" 
US back playing an accordion. The other peop were 
eating berries and flour-and-water round the fire they 

tTdt ::?.'" rf^' '"'''' -^^^^^^-^ --hiter. 
ested n us hough they had fired off two cannon on our 

arrival, and had whitewashed their houses on the cin ce 
of our coming. cnance 

The?ind'l'" T''- '"' '''''' ^°"" ^-^P'-"-^ it all. 
ihe. had been having one of their most savage orcnes 

and had been singing, dancing, and feasting fuf ix fays 

lh.s very morning their " medicine-man "had b en out 

IVTT'^' and in his tantrums had bitten sk:;:! 

pie. On these occasions he rushes out of the house 

naked and all the people are bound to run a y b t 

caught they stand still to be bitten, as they c'o sk ; 

t a great honor. The trader said : '. If you had come 

u-o hours sooner you would have seen the most terrible 

ase of savage life -; but I don't think we shou for 

the moment the man-of-war came in sight thev quoted 

il maif to :'^ '^""'^" ^^"''^' ^"' ^''"^^'^^ ^^-' -^i 
cine-man to escape into the woods 

Dr.nk is at the bottom of much of the misery In 
Canada there !« => r,n^ ..f <^.-- r ,,. ^^ ^" 



there is a fine of $500 for sell 



•iians, but here they get it from Amer 



iii«' spirit to la- 



•i,( 



30 



ican traders. 



292 



AfV CAXADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XV 

Sunday, j./._We had a lovely day, and after morning 
service went through the last danger on this route-the 
Seymour Narrows. There are several whirlpools formed 
by a rapul tide in tliis very narrow channel, and an 
American man-of-war was lost in them not long a-,. 

We anchored in Tribune Harbor, and took a nice 
walk over the cliffs, returning in time for dinner 

Monday, ^///.-This is the last day of our voyage in 
the Amethyst. ^ 

When we arrived at Hurrard's Inlet we saw the 
R<Kket, and the sight of her told us that our mail was in 
Not havmg heard for a long time, we were all delighted' 
In the evening, by another steamer, two more mails ar- 
rived, and when I went to bed I had quite a headache 
from readn,g letters. I had forty myself-so many from 
the children, etc. 



i 



f 



CHAPTER XVI. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA, CAUKORMA, AN„ THE SAI,T T.AKE 

CITV. 

7'«««'«;, .9.//m/v,-5M.__The repose of a sea-life is 
over; posts and tcieKrams. addresses, replies a he 
bands and salutes are alive again ' 

Almost before we had finished our breakfast we were 
hurned uUo boats, and put on board the ^..,/.7and ' ! 
her we steamed along for an hour, reading ^ U;eew 
n the papers. T.ater we got into boats and canoes nd 
landed in the bush, where we went to see a gr"' tree 
cudown. Our time being short, our host, Mr.^R ^ ? 
• cl chosen a tree near the water, and he made many 
''P' log.cs fonts small size; but as it was .,o feet hit"i 

ancUbout six feet in dimeter, we thought L:^^^^^^ 
It had been partially cut through, and we stood by to 
see , s overthrow. Two men were working at it Thev 
stood each upon a spring-board, on either side o tie 
t ee. I hese boards were narrow planks s.uck into holes 

part of the runk ,s too hard to repay the labor of luuk- 
'"J? through it) ; the spring-board gives the workman 
great power with his axe. workman 

In about ten minutes the monster began slowlv to 
end o one side, and then a crashing and a grca In d 




WW— 



294 



MY CAXADIAN JOUKXAL 



cir. XVI 



I I 



J 



Wc set off again in our boats to the Antfi/ivsf, where 
we had a Imuh still more hurrifd than the i)rcakfast. 
Tile /)oui^r/as towed us in tlie ship's boats, and as we went 
very fast, and the water was full of pieces of limber, we 
had quite an exciting voyage, trying to avoid a blow 
from one of these. 

We landed at a wharf, and got into carriages, which 
took us eight miles over a corduroy road through the 
primeval forest. Our destination was New Westmin- 
ster, and when we arrived within the precincts of the 
city we were met by the Mayor, a guard of honor, and 
a band, and passed under arches decorated with flags. 
There were some very pretty devices, and two rather 
amusing ones. D.'s motto was very happily combined 
with the great political question of the day— " which 
route the Pacific Railway is to take "— " Per Vias Rcc- 
tas. The Eraser Valley." Another had " .Speed the Rail- 
way " written upon a board, above which a little train 
moved along as we passed. 

Wc had a sliort way to drive, and turned up a grass 
hill, at the top of which a series of platft)rms were ar- 
ranged, covered in witli flags, and decorated with ever- 
greens; the view over the Fraser River, the town, and 
the distant mountains was (piite beautiful. The whole 
town was out, and there was l)esides a great assembly of 
Iniiians. After various varieties of white men had pre- 
sented addresses and been replied to, and after numbers 
had been shaken hands with, we looked down the hill, 
and saw a mass of Hags marching up ; the bearers of 
these gay !)anners were all Indian chiefs, or great men, 
followed by a set of Indian Vnlunteers, who had got them- 
selves Info a very smart blue uniform, and were com- 
manded by the owner of an old red coat and a pair of 
epaulets. The chiefs formed into a circle, while the army 
remained in a column, and stood facing liie platform. 



SEPT. 1876 A SPEECH IX MAXY TOXGUES. 



295 



I), went down and shook hands with the chiefs, and then 
returned to the phitform and listened to the speeches of 
four of them, every sentence of each bein^r translated 
by an interpreter into Knglish. 

When it was his turn to reply, I), spoke one sentence, 
which was taken up by five interpreters, who each, in 
turn, put it into some new Indian tonjjuc. The process 
was lonjr, but it was interesting. These poor people 
have been waitinj,^ here for the Governor-Cleneral for 
nearly three weeks, and have taken great pains to get 
themselves up for the occasion, 

There was lunch m a tent, and after it we walked 
down to the river, and saw three very good canoe-races. 
One set of boats had twenty-one Indians ir each. At 
six o'clock we made a move to go to the steamer up.jn 
which we sleep. On our way wc passed under a Chinese 
arch, and got out of the carriage to speak to some of 
the people about. After parting with the officials, we 
a-rused ourselves in our own fashion, and seeing a great 
sturgeon at a fishmonger's, we went in to look at if he 
showed us more than a hundred salmon he had in store, 
and asked us if wc should like to see some caught that 
night; which invitation we accepted. 

I), had a long talk with various gentlemen on bus], 
ness before dinner. After it we stood on the roof of our 
drawing-room on the steamer to see a most beautiful 
torch-hght display by the Indians in canoes. Wc steamed 
up a little way, and then back, the canoes following 
their torches looking very brilliant in the darkness and 
reflected in the water. Some men on foot, also with 
torches, ran along the banks, and the town was illumi- 
nated. Before the lights disappeared there was cheer- 
«ng, and "(lod save the Queen." 



After this wo retired int 



o private h^fr, and 



nriW^ri m 



,\ 



to go out fishing, (,'onductcd by our friend 



the ftiih' 



296 



MY CANADl AX JOURNAL. 



Ill I 



CH. XVI 

monger, Mr. Herring, we got into a boat, Mrs. Herring 
coming with us to do the iionors. We followed Mr. 
Herring, who, in a second boat, put down a great net 
which we saw him take in. We caught six fine salmon 
and a sturgeon, and it really was great fun. When we 
landed we walked under the Chinese arch again and 
were amused by their lanterns, which had little animals 
gomg rou.id and round inside, jumping and moving their 
legs_so cleverly managed. Sir Matthew Begbie joined 
us here, and goes with us for some way. All glad to iret 
to bed. ^ 

WeJncsJay, 6th.~0\xx steamer started at night up the 
Eraser River. She is a stern- wheeler, and has capital 
ac'ommodation. 

The scenery of the Fraser is lovely. I am quite tired 
of wntmg this, and it is impossible to convey an idea of 
the luxe of beautiful views there is in this country Un- 
til A-e reached Vale the only event of the day was to \.c 
cabeu out to .see some magnificent one. A\'e stopped a 
few minutes at Hope, a charming little place, and got to 
our destinati.,n-Yale-in the afternoon. A coach-and- 
SIX (in which we travel for a week) took us up to Mr. 
Oppenheim's house, where we are to sleep. On the way 
we stopped to receive a Chinese address, written on pink 
paper, and an Indian one. The decorations were won- 
derful for such a small place; the most original being a 
live horse, which was placed in the way, with a cloth 
over 11, on which wa* written, " (lood, but not iron," in 
allusion to the celebrated railway. 

Tlic (•ppenheims had a bancpiet for us, cooked by a 
Ircnchinan fn.m Victoria-very good, but so plentiful 
that Nowell managed to suppress some dishes behind 
the scenes. 

Mrs. Oppenheim. though French, is like a motherly 
English woman, and I liked her very much= 'J'l.ev have 



Si;Pi. 1 8 76 



THE FRASER RIVER. 



297 



a very nice house and no children, but have a nephew 
living with them, and I was so surprised when I asked 
her what profession the young man was; she said "a 
blacksmith." He did not dine with us, but with the 
servants, who did not know who he was until my maid 
discovered his photograph hung up in my bedroom. 

Thursday, yth. — After breakfast we started on our 
journey. Unfortunately, it rained on and off all day, 
but except that the views would, most of them, be pret- 
tier in sunshine, the wet was not sufficient to damp our 
enjoyment. Just before leaving, an Indian woman 
brought me a pin made of a gold nugget. 

We set off in a large carriage, which held six inside 
and three on the box ; the servants had gone before us, 
and I), and I, the Commodo.e, the Chief Justice, the 
Colonel, and the Freds, went in this coach, drawn by four 
horses. We had forty-four miles to drive, and the road 
is a wonderful i)iece of engineering ; a wall of rock on 
one side, and a great precipice upon the other, almost 
the whole way, with every now and then a sharp turn 
round some fearful bluff, where, looking forward, the 
road seemed to end, and there was nothing but the river 
to be seen, a hundred feet below. We were following 
the Kraser all day. The river itself is muddy, but very 
rapid, with mountains almost precipitous on either side. 
It was very curious to see the little Indian fishing 
establishments on the way. Wherever there was a rock 
rising a little above the water, there you were sure to 
see a scaffolding, ujion which were hung rows and rows 
of dried fish, and near it a sort of spring-board jutt ig 
out into the water, upon which a man stood over he 
stream, and dipi)ed a net, shaped like a snow-shoe, 
into it ; we saw one man bring up a large trout, and 
cheered him from the carriage. Another curious thing 
we saw was a sort of house in which liic liidians winte.. 



1 i 



298 



My CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



i. : \ 



\\ 



cn. XVI 

A large hole is cut in the ground, and covered over with 
a round roof; in the top of this there is a hole, through 
^^h.ch a notched pole .s stuck, and by this the people go 
dovvn-and through it the smoke comes up 

We lunched at a place called Boston Bar, and D 
took several portraits of Indians there. They were a 
chfferent type from those we have seen before : instead 
of very fat faces, they have thin ones, and large, but 
not coarse, mouths. As we approached our camp we 
saw a most beautiful mountain view ; down the sides of 
he prec.p.tous hills there were streaks of light green 
the rest bemg very dark f.r ; light clouds of mist float' 
mg about, and the river, far below, flowing rapidly a 2 
We got out at one place to look at Hell's (ate wherJ 
the Eraser rushes through a verv narrow pas W^ 
passed several teams of si.xteen o.xen. and ome w h 
twe ve mules, drawing two wagons fastened togethe" 

Uhen we arrived at our sleeping-place which h„? 
b^nar^nged by Captain Layt<!n.Vvi,^«:tm' 

abovi.h '" ''' ^'" '''^ ^'^'^ ^'f - ''"'. 800 feet 

above the r.ver, and when we walked up the ittle n'th 

made to them, we found a large dining-room e 'ct 

peted. the walls hun, with chintz, and ornamen^e \ th 

green; and out of this my bedroom, flttcd with every 

luxury ! (nuside the dining-room a row of ten e . Z 

Zl^lT '"'^'""' '" '''''' '"-^"^^ '-^ '-"-■ ^'--- 

work r'' 7"''"-'""' '" ^"'■"'"^' '^'^ Chinese cook is at 
Hork at ano her i.re. and a lovely view lies before us 

^ery glad of the good dinner we had. After it we sit 
round the f.re ; the Indians joined the circle, and as^ed 
a stone pipe from one to another 

I have retired from the f.re to write this, but it is 
nnpossible to do justice to the day so hurriedly, i have 



SEPT. 1876 



AN /XD/AX £SCO/?T. 



299 



not mentioned a waterfall, perfectly straight, down an 
enormously high cliff. The road really is rather awful 
and I got great credit for my courage in driving over it' 
/'ru/ay, J///.-\Ve breakfasted in our spacious camp 
at seven o'clock-to the tune, alas ' of a pattering r.,n 
-and in half an hour set off on our drive. The riin 
kept on all day more or less, the weather luckily beiiu^ 
least wet at the most important moments. The roid 
was, I thought, rather worse than before, being equally 
precipitous and narrow, and much softer and more slin. 
pery-looking. Before we reached Lytton we met a great 
assembly of Indians, who had built an arch close to a 
li tie church they have there. There were about 500 of 
whom 300 men and women were on horseback; numbers 
of foals were following, and the neighing and excitement 
among the horses was as great as that among the men. 
An Indian had met us about three miles from the town 
and said, "Tayee.'- (chief). .'Yes,- was the reply' 
from our carriage, and .,ff he started on his way to tell 
them we were coming. Such a motley and picturesciue 
assembly: every .sort of color an<l dress; curious caps 
made of handkerchiefs tied on in every possible waV ' 
fur caps, made apparently of a whole animal, though 
some were merely a strip of fur tied round the head • 
and every face a study. The women rode astrifl.. but 
had a blanket so neatly laid over the knees, and tucked 
into the stirrup at each foot, and sat so well, and were 
so much at home on their saddles, that thev looked 
charmmg. Sometimes there were two on a horse, and 
many a mother and child sat together on one The 
men s saddles were often a good deal ornamented 

The missionary read an address, and " (lod save the 
gneen was sung in Indian. We visited the church 
and shook hands a good deal, an.i then rode on the 
troop after us. to Lytton, where U. ordered beef 'and 



J 



-If] n 

1: : 

-.1 > ! 



300 



MY CANADIAX JOURXAL. 



CH. XVI 



Mi i 



flour for he Indians. Here the whites had an address 
and an arch, and we stopped a few moments 

After we left it the Indians followed f<,r some wav 
and we handed out tobacco to the women whTJ e 
nearest, young and old being glad of it 

Vou can't think what a pretty sight it was ! We 
ere two large coaches-and-four, and a great procession 

after u . 1 he.r horses are very small, but very good 
ave plenty of work, and are never ill. J.st'before 
lunch we met another, smaller troop of horse-men and 
women ; one girl, with a yellow handkerchief on her 
head, was very tall, and looked very handsome as she 
rode along. 

We have now left the Fraser River, and are on the 
Ihompson. I nu.st tell you about some Indian graves 
we .saw on the way. One was a lean-to shed, under which 
tlie body or bodies were laid, and in front of the grave 
were three tin pans; outside the shed, facing the road 
stood three wooden figures, a man and two women 
dres.sed up m the clothes of the deceased. On a tree 
close by hung a quantity of horse-skms. When a man 
d.es, h,s friends eat a few of his horses, and hang up 
he.r skms, so that he may ride upon them to the Happy 
i^and. Another grave we saw was surrounded by a pal- 
'ng, .ns.de of which was a figure of a woman, dressed, a 
small cross by her side.* 

We arrived at Mr. and Mrs. Cornwall's house after a 
twelve hours' drive, and in a pouring rain, rather tired. 
I am sorry to say Mr. Cornwall is not at home, having 
most unfortunately had a very bad accident on his way 
here to prepare for us. His horse shied on the road over 



* We heard afterwards that these figures had had new cotton dressc. 
put on them \\\ our honor. 



cotton dresses 



SEPT. 1876 A CAVALCADE OF INDIANS. 3^^ 

Which we have just come, and he went over a precipice 
happUy ,n one of the least dangerous places to be fiund 

rolIeHH ""''•. 'T'' ''' '^'^' "'"'^ his companion 

rolled down twenty-five feet, and escaped with a few 
scratches. Mr. Cornwall had to be taken back to Vic- 
toria to have th. leg set. Mrs. Cornwall has a very 
young baby, and her brother and sister-in-law are help- 
ing her to do the honors. They have made D. and me 
very comfortable in their house, and were most kind. 
1 he rest of the party are lodged elsewhere 

Saturday, gth.-W^ left the Cornwalls' before 10 a m 
and agam embarked in our coaches. At last the sun 
shone upon us and we were able to dismiss from our minds 
all thoughts of umbrellas and waterproofs. The country 
here .s very curious: there are low hills and rolling 
Pla.ns wh.ch to a stranger look barren, but which really 
suppor catt e al the year round, and certainly produce 
he be t beef and mutton I ever ate. One carries away 
romth.s d.stnct the idea of a great sandhill of a yeN 
lovvsh tmge, cut into terraces, valleys, mounds, and ap- 
parently carved all over by ancient watercourses CoTd 
it be ungated, the land would be very valuable; but as 
.t |s there .s scarcely any cultivation, and the only crop 
. bunch g,ass Though it produces such good beef, ? 
can tell you how many acres it requires to feed one cow 
and the an.n.al has quite a walk to take between one 
tuft of grass and another. 

We had not left our starting-point long when all the 
ors o t e ran.bow on horseback appeared before 
and, w.th shouts and drums and neighing of horses, we 
were surrounded by a cavalcade of Indians. The next 
Half-hour was one of the greatest exc.tement. ' I n ve 
saw anythn,g so delightful as the sight of these men 
women, and children, waving their 'flags. X^oTJZk 
iuais gahup.ng up and down the low hills, around 







302 



MV CAXADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XVI 

us, While our two coaches drove steadily alonjr the 
road. e> >- 

Some of the figures were most interesting to watch 
Ihere was one man with a square drum, which he beat 
as he galloped along, his legs keeping time, and his body 
danc.ng on the saddle. The chief was a remarkabl^ 
handsome old man, with a majestic air and a fine seat 
on horseback. He wore a red uniform, and the whole 
costume was, strange to say, complete, and unspoiled by 
any vagary of his own taste. Another wore a blue coat 
deer-skm leggings, and a fur cap, and carried a scepter 
mounted with silver. Several women had babies before 
them, and bigger children tied on behind; and you may 
.magme how the baby's head wagged as its mother gal- 
loped along! The people ride splendidly, and I did so 
enjoy seeuig them scampering over the ground. 

After much cantering and skirmishing we arrived at 
an mn and a shop, where we got out of the coach to speak 
to the people, and to buy them flour, sugar, and tobacco 
_ Ihese Indians are very bright and intelligent-look- 
ing. \\e shook hands with a great many of them, and 
particularly admired the " British General "-the hand- 
some chief I told you of. I looked to see if the babies- 
heads were all right, and I found one poor old lady who 
had been galloping along in this furious fashion with 
her hand and arm swelled with rheumatism. I got her 
a warm shawl at the store. The whole assembly fol- 
owed us a mile or two farther, when they collected on 
tlie top of a small hill, waved their flags, and disappeared 
Four of them_a woman and three men-came on the 
whole . - - 



Aft 



way to the Lake. 



passing through arid plains, we suddenly came 
upon a glassy sheet of water, into which, and out of 
which, the river Thompson flowed. We got on b( 
steamer, and as usual found every comfort and 1 



got on board a 



uxury 



SEPT. 1876 



ICAMLOOPS. 



30:; 



onThetfb^ "'• f"'""^ '" "" ^"^'"^' '^"^'^^ «f Poetry 
on he tables, rock.ng-chairs, and jrood beds 

aL^t? r, • """ ""'' '"^' '^^ ^he river we saw a 
quant ty of wh.te men and Indians on horseback, and 
us as we were gouig: to land our attention was called 
to the other bank (we had got into the Thompson) 
where about five hundred wild horses were being drive 
down to the water. D. landed, and drove up ,n a car- 
nage-and-four to a platform, where he found me (I hav- 
ing walked up) and some other ladies. The platform 
was close to an arch, and the carnage was surrounded 
b> all the people on horseback. I was presented with a 
bouquet by a young lady who had been a school-girl at 

and uncles hve here, and our meeting was quite exciting 
I here were addresses, etc., and D. went a short 
drive, and then returned to the steamer, where the In- 
dians followed him, and stood on the banks chanting a 
sort of psalm. *" 

A deputation kept His Excellency for some tmie, and 
Ah Sam (our cook) got so impatient, and so fearful that 
his dinner would be spoiled, that in spite of everyone he 

to go "" ^""^^ ^"^'"" ' ''" ^''"^' "' ^ '^'"^ ^" ^he people 

I must tell you that a lady at Kamloops was warned 

n a dream to give me a beautiful pin, made of a nugget 

(rmt the one I mentioned before), which she accordingly 

W<,,, 7o./.-_We had prayers before breakfast in 
the cabin, and soon after steamed across to the opposite 
shore to visit the Indians. ' 

There was rather an interesting " Tow-wow." They 
have h.id a hinfl — : ■ ., . Ancy 



seri 



k^e had a land griev 



ance in this province, which 



ous to them, and they set it before the G 



IC 



overnor- 



^ 1 




304 



My CANADIAN JOURXAL. 



CH. XVI 



General in a very grave and dignified manner. They 
seemed ])leased to have the opportunity of seeing him, 
and, although he made them no promises, I thinic they 
felt that they had secured a friend at court. The con- 
versation over, D., Fred, and Colonel Littleton mounted 
some of the Indian horses in order to visit the Reserve 
and although they did not fmd the Mexican saddles at 
all comfortable, they enjoyed their ride very much. 
" Louie," the chief, showed them all his carrots, onions^ 
potatoes, etc., and, once the " Pow-wow " was over, be- 
came very cheerful, and made them gallop along at a 
great pace. 

They returned for lunch, and afterwards rode again 
on the Kamloops side of the lake. D. got a long way 
up the hill, and had a good view of the country, and the 
remainder of the party walked. Mr. Dewdney and Mr. 
Vernon dined with us. 

I must tell you a story of Ah Sam. Captain Layton 
had slept on shore last night, but as we start very early 
to-morrow he wished to have a cabin in the steamer, so 
he said to Ah Sam : " You take your mattress, and put 
it on the floor somewhere, as I am going to sleep here 
to-night." " Oh," says Ah Sam, " me workee hard, Cap- 
tain Layton no work ; me want good bed ; if Captain 
Layton get in first, he have it ; if me g-t in first, me have 
It." So at nine o'clock the whole saloon was disturbed 
by the snores of Ah Sam, who retired very early indeed 
to make sure of keeping the bed. He is a great char- 
acter, and always takes his boots off in tne coach, lest 
he should be made to walk up the hills. 

Monday, iit/t.—l was awoke by the stern-wheel, which 
is immediately behind my cabin, and which shakes one 
more than any screw. We were starting, and about 
seven we stopped at a place where most of the party 
landed to shout ; the steamer weiu on, and the Commo- 



L^M 



CH. XVI 

ner. They 
seeing him, 

think they 

The con- 

in mounted 

le Reserve, 

saddles at 
cry much. 
)ts, onions, 
s over, be- 
along at a 

rode again 

long way 

y, and the 

:y and Mr. 

in Layton 
very early 
teamer, so 
s, and put 
leep here 
lard, Cap- 
f Captain 
:, me have 
disturbed 
•ly indeed 
eat char- 
oach, lest 

eel, which 
akes one 
nd about 
the party 
; Commo- 



SEPT. 1876 DOfV.V THE TIIOMPSOX RIVER. 



m 



305 



dore and I breakfasted at 



ine, and went out fishing at 



Savernagh's Ferry, in the Thompson River. The trout 
wv^re only just beginning to rise when the steamer whis- 
tled for us, and we had to go back. The s 
had a beautiful walk, and brought home fi 
brace of the " sharp-tailed gro 
our morning very much. 



e sjjortsmen had 
ve and a half 
ise," and we all enjoyed 



We embarked at noon in our coach, and parted with 
the Chief-Justice at Cache Creek, on his way to Cariboo 
I then got on the box (or " fore-top," as we call it, having 
just come from the Amethyst) to see Mr. Tingley drive • 
this was an easy part of the road, so I thought it a good 
place to take a front seat. 

We got to Mr. Cornwall's at six, and all dined there 
I>. and I remaining to sleep. We had a most lovely 
day. ^ 

Tuesday, i2th.-\\^ got away early; a beautiful 
bright morning. On the road we met many Indians and 
gave away much tobacco and shook hands a good deal 
The old ladies are so animated; they shake both hands 
before you, talking all the time, and r,,minue the mo- 
tion with head and hands, when - give them tobacco, 
saying, or rather making a noise like, "tu-choo." 

At Lytton we caught up the second coach; some of 
the passengers had felt the heat so much that it made 
them sick, but we did not mind it at all. D., the Colo- 
nel, and the Commodore stopped and bathed in the 
Thompson. We are returning the same way we came 
and are enjoying the beautiful scenery in the fine 
weather. Having plenty of time to spare, ana passing 
one of those fishing-stations I told you of, we scrambled 
down the bank to see the man at work. His implement 
was like a very long landing-net, and he stood on the 
most rickety little spring-board pK-.tform over the rush- 
mg stream, and put his net into the water, drawing it 



■;:ij 



3o6 



MV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XVI 



down stream as far as he could reach ; when he felt a 
fish in it, he let go a string, which allowed the net to 
run down the frame, and to shut up the fish in a regular 
bag. Our gentlemen tried to do it, but they nearly 
tumbled into the river, and could not manage it at all. 

I again got on the box, and drove over the worst 
piece of the road— such awful turns, and such a preci- 
pice at the edge of the narrow road! It certainly re- 
quires good driving, and the coachman has to work hard 
all the time. We reached our camp at si.x, and in an 
hour were at dinner and a splendid camp-fire. 

Wednesday, ijt/i.—i got up at six to look out at a cu- 
rious effect of fog. We are about 800 feet above the 
river. The morning was bright and lovely, all the 
mountains clear, and an extensive view lay before me; 
but when 1 looked down at the Fraser, instead of its 
muddy stream I beheld a beautiful river of soft cloud ! 
This layer of fog must have been 200 or 300 feet thick, 
as we could tell by the trees on the banks, and it was 
the prettiest thing I ever saw in the way of mist. 

We had a very successful journey back to Yale, and 
D. and I sat on the box for the last hour of the way. 
The driver and all the Yaleites were delighted that we 
had enjoyed the trip, and were not frightened ; and the 
coachman's testimony to my courage during the perilous 
drive to Kamloops was " that I hadn't a scare in me." 
We drove down to the steamer Jioyai City, and had the 
Oppenheims to dine with us. 

Thursday, 14th.— '\\\q stern-wheel awoke us about 6 
A.M. It gives the most odious motion to the steamer. 
About eleven we got to Now Westminster, which I), 
thinks should be the terminus of the new Pacific Rail- 
way, and the Mayor came on board, and presented nie 
with photographs of all the arches. The Commodore 
left us here, and wc went on a iiiiie farther to join the 



SEPT. 1876 



VICTORIA. 



307 



Douglas, upon which steamer I have been scribblinj? 
this. * 

We had a very smooth passage of about twenty miles 
to Victoria, where we found it raining heavily. This 
only made our drawing-room, with its fire and lights 
look more than ever comfortable after all our traveling- 
and then the delight of finding a mail waiting, and a 
nice quiet hour for reading our letters ! 

Friday, /j//..--Fred Ward, who is " housekeeper.- has 
ordered up the prisoners from the Penitentiary to " pluck 
chickens" for the ball; it is the custom he^e, and this 
morning, when we walked into the ball-room, we found 
SIX prisoners, with chains to their legs, and an armed 
man standing over them, polishing the floor. 

D. was, as usual, shut up with some argumentative 
Victorian till 4.30 p. m., when I got him out for a little 
drive, and we walked home. 

Saturday, /(^//.. _ After lunch we went to a rifle- 
match. His Ex. gave away his medals, and we saw 
sonie -company" there. The Commodore joined us 
and we walked home. In the evening we attended an 
amateur concert. 

Monday, /cf///._Prisoners all busv, preparing for the 
ball. Fred brought the head gardener into the drawing, 
room to give him some duections about flowers and 
was about to take him to the dining-room, when he'said, 
"leant leave that man here; he's a convict." There 
was a storm last night, and the weather looks bad 

We visited the High School, received an address, 
and replied. D. presented some medals for competition 
which were unexpected, and gave great pleasure. We 
then called upon the ex-f.overnor, Mr, Trutch, to see 
h.s mother, an old lady of seventy-seven. who is dving 
to come to the baJK but can not get her dortor'.s per 
mission to do so. I rested in the afternoon, and at seven 
01 



308 



MY CANADIAN JOURXAL, 



CH. xvr 



■ f 

If 



t n 



m I i I 




we had a very merry little dinn 



was a rumor that tlie great Ah Sam 



er in a small room. There 



th 



was drunk, and that 



lie supper would be very bad; but the dinner was all 
right, so we felt some hope. 'I'he guests were invited at 
8.30, and soon after nine 1). and I came down to open 
the ball. 'J'he room is a very nice one, and we had had 
all the windows taken out, and a sort of corridor tent of 
canvas, lined with flags, put up the whole way round the 
outside, which added greatly to the available space. I 
must say I enjoyed the ball very much, and I think 
every one else did. \\c all danced from 9.30 till three 
without intermission, and as fathers, mothers, daughters 
.'Hul sons are all eiiually dancing-mad here, and as we 
iKid a great number of naval officers, and were in our- 
selves an element of novelty to the Victorians, and they 
were new to us, there was a great deal of spirit in the 
ball. When every one else had gone, we had .some more 
supper and a talk ; the former was very good, and Ah 
Sam had been maligned. 

Tiu's^iay, iQtli.~\\^ breakfasted at eleven, and had to 
start immediately after for the Ks(|uimauU Dockyard- 
the Commodore ' cut on first, and received us there 
with the officials belonging to it. I), was to drive in the 
first pile of a new dry dock ; and when this ceremony 
whH-h was performed by the aid of steam, was accom' 
plished. we went over the stores, and then to lunch. 
The croquet-ground was covered in with sails and flr.gs 
and the tables were laid on it. Our health was drunk,' 
and D.'s reply was very successful, containing a little 
chaff about the way in which he has been shut up every 
and all day with the male i)ortion of the population of 
Victoria— which amused them immensely. 

When ail was over we went to see the Rocket~vi gun- 
boat— and then drove home, the Commodore returninff 
to the Atit^fh-^sf^ ° 



1' t ' 



SEPT. 1876 



SAA' m A A' CI SCO. 



from 



yra/nrs<fay, ^o///._Si,ch a day of labor ! D 
- 7 A. M. preparing for a very importa 



309 

fery busy 
1 , " • .= - - .-.^ ■■.■|)ortant snccch • at 

eleven the deputation can.e, and he spoke till .' ,„ . t'hen 
lunch, and off .0 the Cathedral to attend the chris en n^ 
of a baby-., frcderiok Ten.ple Cornwall." -ihen ,"0 

a pubhc p,cn,c on Deacon I there were numbers 

people there, and we stayed an hour, and said go d- y 
to all we knew. Fred and I then came on board the 
Atnet ivst, and I) wpnt h-if-i- f^ n 

fh .t .1; V ^° f'overnment House to see 

hat the speech was ready for the press. Some mistake had 
been made n. reporting it, and he found it in such hope- 
less confus.on that he did not get away till quite late, miss- 
.ng the dmner on board, and half the ,)erformance which 
was g.ven for us. Th,. fficers had got up some songs and 
g ces and afterw we had some Christy Minstrels, 

which were ver; .ng. 

Thursday^ ^y.^.-The morning was lovely, and D.. 
havmg finished ins business, was able to enjoy himself: 
Ihe Commodore took me for a row, and he went on 
board the Dou^Uu, where there was a party to see us off. 
A\e started at twelve, accompanied by the little steamer, 
and had much waving of handkerchiefs before parting 
with her. ' ** 

I regret to say that I was not able to appear at din- 
ner, and that, one !,y one, tho.sc who sat down disap- 
peared from the table. We had a very rough night, and 
naif the officers and sailors were ill. 

The mail steamer Dakota started an hour after us 
bent upon beating us. ' 

Saturday, -?j,/.-Heautiful weather, and all decidedly 
better. - 

San Franmco: Sunday, ^.////.-Anchored at 7 a m 
and have won the race against the Dakota. We stayed on 
Bnarr, ,or chunh, and then said u temporary " good-by " 
to the ship and her officers, and came ashore to the hotel. 



P 



i 



i^jj 



3IO 



AfV CANADI^iN JOURNAL. 



CH. XVI 



Monday, 2^^th. — At twelve o'clock we went on board 
the Amethyst a^ain, the ward-room officers having asked 
us to lunch win them. They are all so civil and kind, 
and received us most hospitably; we are sorry to part. 
After our farewells were made to our hosts, we set off 
again, accompanied by the Commodore, on another little 
expedition. General McDowell met us, and we went by 
train with him southward for an hour; at the station 
we had a carriage-and-four, and drove to the house of a 
Mr. Mills. This w^as to show us a Californian home; 
and certainly, after passing through the sandy hills, it 
was refreshing to come upon a little oasis of brilliant 
green, and tropical plants. The house was as nice a 
show-house as I have seen : some good pictures, and 
bedrooms really liveable in, in spite of magnificent 
monograms in the center of each pillow-case. All the 
country round looks burned up, and yellow and sandy, 
while the place itself is fresh, green, gay with flower-neds, 
and dignilicd by very handsome evergreen oaks and enor- 
mous bay-trees. We had to hurry away from it, and get 
into our carriage, to drive to Mr. .Sharon's. 

It was too late for us to see the grounds, but I am 
now in a position to tell you something of a Californian 
merchant's home, and society. 

The house was built by a certain Mr. Ralston, and on 
his death it became the property of his partner, Mr. 
Sharon, who was a miner, has twice been a millionaire, 
and twice has lost all, this being his third enjoyment of 
a great fortune. He owns a gigantic hotel, another al- 
most as big in San Francisco, a large house in town, this 
country place, and a big house at Washington, not to 
mention various little mines and railways ; and he is here 
considered as the merchant-prince of 'Frisco. 

We vere shown into the hall, which at first gave 
the impression of a small house, though opening into 



SEPT. 1876 



A CALIFORNIAN BALL. 



311 



large corridors; it seems as though originally there were 
two sitting-rooms, and that a hail-room and supper- 
room, a place for the dancers to llirt in, and a cf)rndor 
had all been added. ' 

Everything opens into everything, -vith sliding, muf- 
fled windows; and nothing is imi)osing. The ball-room 
IS a good room and pretty, but the nicest feature of the 
house is a sort of sitting-room upstiiirs, on to which the 
bedrooms open. We were immediately taken there, and 
told not to dress for dinner (our servants had brought 
on our ball things) ; so we were soon down again, and 
were introduced to the company in the house. The 
guests are General Sherman, a very pleasing man, and 
Mr. Cameron* and his daughter, a ladylike and hand- 
some girl. General McDowell does most of the honors, 
and he marshaled us in to dinner, I going with our host, 
Mr. Sharon, a very quiet little man. I told him I liked 
h'3 hotel, and I tried to look as if $i4,ooo,ooo,ooo-a 
sum he named— conveyed a definite idea to my mind. 
There was no plate, no ornament, no china on the table, 
no luxury whatever here. No tabic could have looked 
less wealthy, and the dinner itself was simple. I only 
saw part of it, however, for I was sudden I v told to go 
and dress, and accordingly off we ladies weiit to prepare 
for the ball. 

The ball guests were coming by train, and nothing 
was done until they did come, which Wc's an hour and a 
half after I was ready, so Mr. Cameron gave me an arm. 
and walked me up and down the corridors, and sat me 
down occasionally, and took me uj) again and round 
again. 

The train did at last arrive, and with it the company 
•—ladies first. I observed a great latitude as to the 



ii 



•Mr. Cameron, at that time Minister of War in the United Sulet. 



312 



My CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XVI 



A 



Style of dress worn. There were low dresses and square 
dresses, velvet, merino, morning silks, and regular ball- 
gowns; every one seemed to appear just as they pleased 
1 here were girls who would have been pretty but for 
the paint and powder, which was laid on thick, and 
sprinkled over the hair just in sufficient quantities to 
spoil It. I asked some one afterwards whether she con- 
sidered that paint was de n^ucur here, as I saw it was so 
much used, and she told me it was used by girls to a 
great extent. I said, " Do they acknowledge that they 
pamt ?•• She said, " Not paint ; powder." There is no 
deception about it, however, for it is thick. 

The dancing is different to ours-the square dances 
an improvement, I think— much more lively, and much 
delightful courtesying and bowing going on. I danced 
the opening quadrille, and was much amused ; the band- 
master stood close to me, and called out the orders, 
" Ladies ' chain, set to partners, cross," etc., in a loud 
voice. The waltzes are slow, and there is a particular 
way of holding your partner, which I don't admire. 

There was no tea-room ; the only refreshments were 
for the gentlemen-a large bowl of punch, brandy, gin, 
and champagne ; the table was in one of the recesses of 
the corridors, and the men sat and drank and smoked 
there. At twelve Mr. Sharon came, and told me it was 
time "for lunch," and I went with him into the dining- 
room, to the top of the table, where .i small round one 
and a chair were placed for me ; the others stood. The 
only ornamentations on the table were sugar ships. 

Everyone was most kind to us, and Mr. Sharon took 
USUI his carriage to the train, in which we returned with 
the rest of the company to San Francisco. When we got 
into our carriage at the station we had a good laugh. 
It was a large sort of coach, but four was the number 
intended to be inside. "We sat three on a seat : D., the 



SEPT. 1876 



GIVING A'AMES. 



313 



Commodore, and I on one, and three people opposite to 
us, when, to our astonishment, an extra bench was put 
down between us, and two ladies came in and sat, one 
partly on His F:x.'s knee and partly on the bench'; the 
other, after trying my lap, happily moved on to' the 
Commodore's. 

At Mr. Sharon's my maid met some Clandeboye and 
Bangor people; one maid-servant told her she should 
go home as soon as she could s^U out her "Stocks " at 
100. She had benight in at 18, and now they are 85. 

Tuesday, 26th. — Mitx breakfast Fred Ward and I 
went to church fur the purpose of standing as godfatlier 
and godmother to Francis Ward's babv, who was born 
the day we reached 'Frisco. 

When we met the baby in church her name was not 
chosen; but they wanted one to go with Mav, and when 
I suggested Muriel tiicy were delighted; so Muriel May 
she was called. I held her the whole service, and as she 
was awake I Lad to nurse her, and to do the " goose- 
step," all the time. 

Mr. Miller, navigating -lieutenant of the Amcthvst 
came to lunch with us, and brought the charts, in order 
that we might choose some anonymous places to which 
we might give names. Vou will be interested to hear 
that future maps will show the " Dufferin Range " and 
the " Countess of Dufferin Range " of mountains. " Duf- 
ferin Island." " Chatfield Island," " Hamilt.m Cape " 
" Littleton Cape," "Ward C>e"; and Mr. Miller is to 
be immortalized, too. 

There are " no end " of mountains. 



had no names befo 



re. 



and the ranges 



We asked our rejiorters to dine with us, and they, our- 



selves, and the ("ommodore had a most doli-iiif|,| 

ing. D. and I quite agree we would 1 

journey for the sake of seeing the Chinese Theatre. 



even- 
lavo cnnuj th.rj wlioje 



» 



314 



My CANADIAX JOURXAL. 



CH. XVI 



.' f 



We went there with the necessary appendage of a 
policeman, and had a box next to that of Generals Sher- 
man and McDowell. The theatre itself is quite unorna- 
mented, and is what some people might call dirty; but I 
am too much pleased to be critical. The pit was quite 
full of Chinamen, as was the gallery, with the exception 
of a small place set apart for women, where about fifty 
ladies sat. Our boxes were opposite to them. The 
stage ran right across the theatre, and was innocent of 
side-wings or scenery. There were two doors, with a 
curtain in front of each; the band sat between these 
doors, and the actors played in front of the musicians. 
The two ends of the stage seemed to be used as sitting, 
rooms for any one who chose to " walk up." 

I don't know whether you are aware that a Chinese 
play is not an affair of hours, or of days, but of months, 
and that you can have about six hours a night of it as 
long as it lasts. We went for half an hour, and stayed 
two, and even then we left most reluctantly. 

The music is of the bagpipe order, but not so loud, 
and D. was charmed with the minor key and the bar- 
baric tunes. It went on almost the whole of the play, 
one musician at a time taking a smoke and a rest, while 
the actors performed. 

When we arrived the stage was occupied by a com- 
pany of aristocratic Chinamen, and it was evident that 
an important council was being held. The councilors 
were magnificently dressed in gold and embroidered 
satin and various-shaped head-dresses, and their man- 
ners were splendid. The acting u,e might consider stagey, 
but It seems to suit the dress and the people, and it was 
delightful to see them walk, or move their arms, and, 
above all, sit down— they did it with such an air! One 
gentleman wore two enormous drooping feathers in his 
hat, which he twirled ju- as if they were mustaches. 



SEPT. 1876 



THE anXESE THEATRE. 



315 



I here was a discussion, partly sung, between the digni- 
taries, and I "guess " that there was rebellion going on 
for when they rose the party divided and went out at 
separate doors, returning again with soldiers under their 
respective leaders. 

A fight then took place, with a pirouette between 
each blow. The soldiers were plainly dressed (black 
Chinese tunics with sashes), but their chests were bare 
and in the second part of the performance one gentle- 
man showed so much of his manly bosom that I really 
thought that, in his ardor, he would get out of his 
sleeves. 

After these political scenes the drama became more 
domestic, and a lady (a man dressed as such) came on 
She had the most modest of manners, and a great affecta^ 
tion of refinement; she begged her husband not to join 
the war, but, in spite of her prayer and that of his mother- 
m-law, he went, and then the story began to resemble 
that of " Faust." 

Having torn ourselves away from the theatre we 
went to the cafe opposite, which had lanterns hung out- 
side. We found music and gambling going on upstairs, 
and a few women and men about, who instantly offered us 
chairs, and began to speak English to us. They asked 
If we would have tea, and as we " would," they took us 
into an adjoining room, laid a table, and all collected 
round us talking. Tlie tea was delicious, drunk without 
cream or sugar (the latter they greatly object to), and 
we had also ginger and sweetmeats. The women came 
behind me, and touched my things, and were especially 
interested in the jet on my cloak. We saw opium-pipes 
and water-pipes, and looked at the women's nails; and 
the men laughed and said, in allusion to their length 
" They lazy, never do anything." We offered to pay, but 
" No, no, we treat you " ; so we effected an exchange of 




. f 



I 



3i6 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



I. XVI 



~: f j M 1 




cards, and are to have and give photographs. D. shook 
hands with a lady, who instantly hid her face and fled. 

Our guide next took us to see the "Joss House," or 
Chinese church. We passed through a dark passage, 
and mounted a winding stair outside a house, till we 
reached the top story, where we found the place of wor- 
ship. We saw it by the light of two candles and three 
night-lights burning in front of idols. It is not at all 
imposing, being small, and crowded with things; no 
seats, and very little standing-room. The " altar " 
stretches across the building, and is occupied by three 
miserable gods in separate divisions ; a few gimcracks 
are placed near them— offerings from their worshipers. 
The only thing at all handsome is a beautiful piece of 
carved wood, gilt, which evidently portrays an allegorical 
subject, and which stretches in front of the entrance- 
door, and partially screens the idols. 

This ended our last day at San Francisco, and to- 
morrow the return journey begins. 

We said good-by to the Commodore (Captain Chat- 
field, R. N.), who has been very kind to us on board his 
ship, and a very pleasant addition to our society ashore. 
You will see that I was not bewildered with the mag- 
nificence of San Francisco, and was surprised when Mr. 
Cameron, a Cabinet Minister (but a man who has not 
been to Europe), told me that when he was asked 
"what he thought of San Francisco," he replied, "I 
think nothing; I am simply da/ed." Of course the 
town is wonderful, because it is built on impossible sand- 
hills. Chicago is to me much more splendid and mag- 
nificent ; but in reply to this opinion I am told, "Oh! 
but then, so far West ! " 

Wednesday, ^////.—We had to leave the hotel at San 
Francisco early, and to cross in a ferry to the railway- 
station, where we found our Pullman ready for us ! 



SEPT. 1876 



SALT LAKE CITY. 



1^7 



The day was very warm and dusty, and the grizzly 
bear at Colfax looked nitensely miserable with the heat 
He received grapes thankfully. Enormous bunches here 
are to be had for five cents. 

rW^^,^^V//.-On the Alkali Plains; weather pleas- 
ant, but the acrid dust disagreeable to the eyes 

Friday, 2<^th.-^\^ breakfasted at Ogden, and said 
good-by to 1-red Ward there, he being the first deserter 
from our party. Then we started for Salt Lake City 
1 he journey of two hours is a very pretty one. Salt 
Lake was m s.ght almost the whole way, and was of a 
deep, bright blue; while on the other side of the carriage 
the hills were red and orange and brilliant yellow au- 
tumn having already put the sumach plant into' her 
gorgeous livery. We had arranged to dine at the hotel 
and to sleep in the raihvay-car ; but I mav tell you at' 
once that the mosquitoes took possession of it early in 
the evening, and that we accepted our defeat, and spent 
the night at the Gentile Ho^el, which is the very best 
lor food I have been in on this continent. 

The city is certainly a wonderful creation The 
streets are very broad, so that the tramway which runs 
down the middle of each one does not interfere with 
ones carriage-wheels. At the side runs a little open 
stream of rapid-flowing, clear water-a most refreshing 
sight in a naturally very dusty place. Green trees grow 
a ong the banks of this artificial ditch, and the watering 
of the arid plain is the greatest work the Prophet has 
performed. 

As we drove from the station to the Walker House 
we passed a pretty villa, with a garden and lawn and 
fountain m front ; and this afterwards proved to be the 
house of our friend-that is to say, the gentleman to 
whom we had brought a letter of introduction. D and 
I went there later, and found a good farmer kind of man 



i 



318 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XVI 



living in this fine house. A wife, a daughter, a friend, 
and a son came into the room, and I became very im- 
patient when I found that nothing but European wars 
ai trifles of that kind were to be talked of; we could 
not even make out whether our host was a Mormon or 
not ! At last I managed to suggest to D. that we " really 
must be going," and then our host asked if we wished to 
see the Tabernacle, and if we wished an interview with 
Brigham Young; this last honor we declined. D. de- 
clares that it made me quite irritable even to be in his 
vicinity, and I think it did. 

Our friend drove, and a nephew of his wife's wei t 
with us to fetch Fred and the Colonel, and when some 
bright particular Mormon star passed the carriage stopped, 
and D. was introduced. The gentlemen jumped out for 
these presentations, and it was when left alone for these 
few seconds that I picked up some scraps of information. 
Her Ex., in a violent hurry, to young man : " Hem — , 
is Mr. J. a— gentile?" Young man, smiling: "No, 
but I am." Second opportunity: "Has Mr. J. more 
than one wife ? " " No ; she is my aunt. " This may be 
called an evasion, for I find that he had two, and has 
eighteen children ; but the second lady died, and the 
daughter we saw was her child. 

I was introduced to a few people too, and met George 
Q. Cannon, an M. C, a polygamist, an apostle (he is 
buildinjj a very fine house for some favored lady) ; and 
Olson Pratt, the man who led the Mormons to the Prom- 
ised Land, and who is one of the cleverest of the apostles. 

The first thing to be seen was the Tabernacle, in 
front of which a temple of granite is being built. The 
service will be held there when the congregation is 
small; but it seems to be intended principally for church 
ofiices of different kinds, and I suppose they will have a 
new Endowment House in it, for the place in which the 



SEPT. 1876 



MORMOX BUILDIXGS. 



319 



marriages are now performed is a miserable little build- 
ing. 

The Tabernacle is a huge and hideous edifice with a 
great flat dome. There is no support to the arch inside, 
of which fact the Mormons are proud. It holds i2,ooJ 
people, and .ve found it decorated with garlands and 
hanging bunches of flowers. There is an enormous or- 
gan, which we heard played ; and from Brigham Young's 
pulpit you can see every seat in the vaf . ■ -ular room. 
The acoustic properties are perfect. 

We next visited " Zion's " co-operitive sto: .. a very 
large place; indeed, the shops of the i .v- a ap^e r to me 
to be remarkably good. Amelia (Brigha.: '3 most power- 
ful wife) was in the shop, but unfortunately we did not 
know it at the time, and, being with Mormons, we were 
not told any gossip. Our driver took us past the Ame- 
lia Palace, a fine house which Brigham is now building 
for the favorite. Opposite to it is the Lion House 
where she and other ladies now reside, and the Beehive' 
also the abode of the Mrs. Youngs. ' 

A wall is built in front of this harem, so it is only 
when the various gates are open that a peep in is to be 
had. The only real evidence of polvgamy to be seen 
by the stranger is the multiplication of doors to a gentle- 
man's house; the Mormons are certainly shy of the sub- 
ject with " gentiles," and only say, " That is Mr. Cannon's 
house "; " that is another house of Mr. Cannon's." 

We visited the Theatre and the Town-Hall, and then 
returned to dine at our hotel. I believe our one friend 
here is a '' wet " Mormon, and at his house, where we 
spent the evening, we only met one-wifed men The 
Governor of the State and his wife went with us, and 
on arnvmg there we found every one sitting in a circle 
close round the walls of the room. Vve took our places 
in this very stiff row, and I kept mine all the time D 



«i >» 



I 1 






320 



A/y CANADIAN- JOVRN^iL. 



CH. XVI 



managed to lift his chai 



\ Mi 



littl 



r and to change his position a 



e. 'I'here were some officers of the U. S. A 



rmy, and 



some of our host's two families, also a Mr. H., whose 
daughter has just married one of the sons; the parents, 
when they found their children had been to the Endow- 
ment House, showed their want of faith by carrying 
them off to a registry office, and insisting upon their 
going through a legal marriage. Miss H. has only one 
father, but she had four grandfathers. 'We had Mormon 
fruit, Mormon cake, and champagne, handed round by a 
Mormon daughter of the house. 

Our hostess was quiet and rather melancholy-looking 
—the shadow of a possible colleague over her; she has 
not been out of the town for twenty-two years, though 
her daughters have been to Europe, and go to New 
York ; I suppose Mormon husbands think, " where igno- 
rance is bliss," etc. 

Saturday, joth.—Wa Iiad to leave very early in the 
morning, and were, as our hotel-keeper playfully re- 
marked, ".sent off with fireworks," the illumination 
being the burning of a rival inn. The whole roof was 
on fire, and the goods were being thrown out of the 
window. 

We breakfasted at Ogden, and then, in our comfort- 
able " house-upon-wheels," began to ascend the Rocky 
Mountains. 

Si/iKfav, Octflhfr Tst.~\\. was difficult to believe that 
this was Sunday, for when we "rrived at Cheyenne all 
was bustle at the railway-station, and in the town the 
shops were open. The only Sabbath " look was given 
to the place by the laziness of the men, who sat about 
and drank beer. The " West " seems to me to be very 
careless in religious matters, and the only church we 
could discover in this town was a Roman Catholic one. 
We and our two cars were left here. 



!:!f 



orr. 1876 



HOTEL AfAXXE/is. 



32r 



we knew of the quiet night at Cheyenne. It is an unin 
terestm. town, surrounded bv mountains t h,s sol" 
good shops, and is planted all over with r'h t^ 
green poplars; but we found twenty our 1 
much to spend in it. twent>-four hours too 

little'nolilr^f ''' '^"'"'^^esting character, it has its own 
tie political excitements, and a torch-light procession 
o Democrats marched past our hotel this e veni " 
while a Republican one formed close bv, and se o m' 
the opposite direction. It is w<>nderful^ ow the e nvl 
processions are managed without collision 

turns out' to"h"'" "'' !"''' '"'" "^ ">' "^ ^' --^'^ -'"^ 
turns out to be a great hunter ; he offers to take D and 

n-ic across the Rocky Mountains. ' 

One f ms into very bad manners at these hotels The 
d.nner is before one in little dishes, and one dips a fork 
•nto each d:sh, and take, bits of tins and of that in e 
same plate, and uses one's knife promiscuously for s 
'^..tter and the whole dinner. The cloth isV L' 

room that is bewildering. The .service is excessively 
slow an .t .s useless to try and get anything from any 
waiter but your own. At Cheyenne we had a most 
sympathetic black, who said, with the utmost i^Z; 
hat he was so .sorry - when we expressed an inability 
t^o^eat any more; wc almost over-ate ourselves to oblige 

I saw numbers of negro men and womenonhor.se. 
''a k to-day. and there was a white lady riding about in 
a pea-green habit. *" 



We heard of 



mines n week before with 



a young man who mrr'.?' '•? 



ri: liciri the 



1,900 lbs. weight of gold, worth 



n 



322 



M Y CA XA DIA .V JO URN A L. 



CH. XVI 



about 16^. an Dunce. He had an escort of twenty men, 
to each of whom he paid $200 (;^'4o). We were shown 
a nugget weighing about 145 ounces. 

Tuesday, jd. — We were very gla-' to leave Denver 
this morning. D. had a tallc with the hunter, who is 
known as Oregon Bill. He gave us his photograph, in 
which he is depicted with an Indian scalp hanging from 
his belt. 

We traveled through the ugliest country it is pos- 
sible to conceive : a flat plain, without the sn^allest vari- 
ation in it the whole day. Our only excitement was 
seeing a calf dragged along by a las.j, and numerous 
prairie-fires at night, illumirating the landscape in every 
direction. 

Wednesday, 4th. — The country still ugly, though when 
we got to the Missouri a few trees and some castor-oil 
plants were to be seen. I think we found this almost 
the longest day of our tour. 

Thursday, j///. ~ Arrived at St. Louis early, and 
found that it is the day of the year to be here— the 
best day of the Great Fair. The town and hotels are 
crammed, and some residents good-naturedly turned 
out to give us their rooms. We found two mails await- 
ing u.s, and after reading them went off to see the 
show. 

There is a very fine, uncovered amphitheatre, where 
we saw trotting-horses and four-in-hands ; a band 
played, and the seats all round the course were filled; 
there must have been 30,000 people there, and crowds 
outside and all throu^,!! the grounds. It is a great holi- 
day here. 

1), took me a walk through the town, which is one of 
the nicest I have seen in the Slates— solid-looking, and 
with very handsome residences. The hotel is very good 
and comfortable. 



OCT. 1876 



TOROXTO. 



323 



side ; - ;f 7 ^ '''' '^- ^"^"'-^ '^''^^ -d «^-^ out- 
e 1 d o " " 'r™'" ^'^ ^"^^ l>rid,.eovcr which 
uc had to pass. It oro.s.ses the Mississippi and the 
M ssoun the tvvo having joined into one muddv iv 
Ilie bridge ,s built on three piers and is \ 1 /r 
wonderful piece of engineering ^^^^ t), ""^^ 
way .s over the bridge, the ra.lwav throu, 7^L 

^'n a.h . but It IS, of course, really very strong 
Ue read pur newspapers, and I went for the thi-J 
t-e through all my letters ! Letters are nev lore 
an^recated or spelled through than when one Is trr. 

S.^furJay, ///.-Soon after breakfast we crossed the 
St, Ua,r n. our train, on a large boat built for the p 
pose, and being now in Canada the .-Grand To'r 

!>• and I spend Sunday at Toronto- nn \t , 



1 



i 



•• 



' Vi 



LHAPTER X7II. 



ll - 



OUR FIFTH WINTER AND SUMMER IN CANADA. 

FnWay, tjth October.— \\\^ " Grand Tour " being over, 
I quite forgot I had still to keep up a journal, and. sud- 
denly remembering it, I find myself at the end of a week 
with no notes, and the necessity of remembering how I 
have spent the time. We arrived at Toronto last Satur- 
day night, r-id were very hospitably received by the 
Macdonalds at Government House. I liked them all 
very mucli. 

On Sunday O. and I weni to church in the Cathedral, 
and in the afternoon a few |)i()ple came to see us— Lady 
Macdonald, old Mr. Chapman, etc. The Rowlands, 
Mowats, Colonel Cumberland, and Mr. Crooks dined. 

On Monday morning I had to be up at 5.30, to catch 
my train to Montreal, and I)., whom I left behind, 
started at eleven en route for Philadelphia. In spite of 
our recent long tour, Ale.<ander a. ' " wth thought this 
the longest journey we ever made. We got to Montreal 
at 9.30, Mr. Mackenzie having been with me as far as 
Prescott. Russell met me at the train, and I found 
Gwen in her own house, looking very well, and all her 
surroundings so pretty and comfortai)le. Gwen and I 
spend quiet mornings together. One afternoon we went 
a lovely drive up the mountain. We visited her chief 
friends, having tea with Miss de Rocheblave* and 



•a Freiich.C«imilian Indy who has very many friends in LnglanJ. 



NOV. 1876 



TOM THUMB. 



325 



Mrs^^^Stephens,* and driving with Miss Allen to the 

We breakfasted early this morning, and 1 left bv the 
train tor (Ottawa. 

FrUay, 2oth.~Uso days of Indian summer • s„rh 

lovely weather. We drove in the afternoons a'nde 

ma.ned .n the garden till five. The Counc.l and Mn.il 

ers are makmg arrangements to give D. a grand rece,,- 

t.o,. on h.s return ; we expect hin, on Monday or 'I ues- 

Tuesday, ^^///.-Sunday was wet and gloomy aeiin 
and so was Monday, on winch day D. returnee V2 
aldermen went to meet him at a station thutv mile o 
•'.Hi when he arrived at Ottawa there was a plat onn a 

ormg h.m to the Government House. The chiMren 
ere very happy listening to the guns and wa c 
e four grays and we all stood at the door to re^eu^ 

the Governor-General. '^*-tive 

He was so surprised at the sltrlif ,.<• i,- 1 1 

-h.rc^nandLproved.::;i;i:;;L'vi;f;L^^ 

ater m the evenmg Nelly dressed up in the most' a tis 
t.c manner as the " Queen of .Sheba ' 

nednesday, Nmrniber /^/.—The Count H« t 



I 



iii 



Lady Mount-Stephen. one of my sUtfr 



my Mstfr's best and kindest friends 



326 



A/y CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XVII 



!'■ I 



spectators, who were mostly children. The dwarfs did 
some little jtlays, one having a man in the part of a 
"mischievous monkey" m it, who once made a da^ii at 
our box, and was received with shrieks. 

The Littletons dined with us, and the Count told us 
funny stori<:s al)out his tour. Tht breather i-^ very bad 
^almost pitch-dark, and wet. 

Sunday, sth. — We were surprised when wt got to 
church to have the sermon first ; it was explained in the 
evLuing that this was a hint to people who came i.tte; 
and it was rallur unfortunate that en this day it hap- 
pened that the Governor-General was two or three min- 
utes late, and of course he could not imagine what 
had happened when tx: found us in the middle of the 
sermon. 

Tuesday, igth December. — The children did their 
Christmas shopping. I think it is the event of the year 
they like Mie best, and they each go with a few shillings, 
and with a list of about sixteen people, for whom they 
expect to buy handsome presents. 

Christmas Day, /.T-^.— The children's voices are heard 
very early, rejoicing over presents they have received 
from their nurses. 

'1 he whole family, except the absent .\rchie, dined at 
our lunch, Haby and Victoria for the first time. The 
Littletons came to tea, and there was a roiuid table with 
ten very happy faces at it. Then came the tree, which 
looked very brilliant, and gave universal satisfaction. 
Kvcry one seems to have got just what they wanted, and 
the clamor of musical instruments resounding through 
the house ever since sounds cheerful, if not pretty. 
When the pleasures of the tree were exhausted we had 
snapdragon, and then a " Yorkshire wassail-bowl," in 
which we all drank Archie's health with cheers. 

Sunday, j/j/.— Gwen's baby was christened to-day. 



CH. XVII 



Jan. 1877 



TORONTO. 



327 



Monday, Jamiary /, iSjy.—X hard day. At ten the 
children rehearsed their play; at twelve His E.x., the 
A. D. C.'s, and J, having dressed ourselves smart, sat for 
tuo hours receiving all the men in Ottawa. 

Exhausted by two, we lunched, and I then packed 
oft my famdy to bed. promising faithfully to call them 
at iour. 

At three a servants' children's party commenced, and 
nime joined them for tea ; after which thev acted a little 
play with great success, 

Friday, 3th.~\ had my annua! children's partv to-day 
Seventy-eight of them came at five, and mothers besides 
After the play, whicl, was acted again, there was tea • 
two long tables down the <lining-room, and one outside 
for the grown-ups. The magic lantern came next, and 
then we cleared away the chairs, and the children danced 
about, and amused themselves very much. 

Saturday, 6th.-\S^ had a skating-party, and final 
representation of the children's play, " Fifine, the Fisher 
Maid," which went off extremely well. They like the 
appreciativeness of a grown-up audience. 

Victoria was very funny: she would run on to the 
stage and exhibit her shoes, bracelets, etc., to the spec- 
tators ; at last I had to draw her back, as she was tak- 
ing the interest uH from the real performers. When the 
curtain was drawn up again at the end, she came for- 
ward and made a very nice little courtesy, and said 
"CJood-night, everybody." 

There was a scene in the plav in which all go down 
to the bottom of the .sea. I managed this by having 
green tarlatan, upon which fishes were pasted, drawn up 
s owly in front of the children to a certain height above 
their heads, showing the depth of the water, 

Toronto: Wednesday, 10th.— Wq left Ottawa f-.r 'i,.. 
ronto yesterday, on the most lovely Canadian morning, 



' If 



tt 






II 



328 



MV CAXADIAN JOUKXAL. 



CH. XVII 



I: T' M 



to Stay with the Macdonalds. After lunch to-day we 
set off for the Town-Hall, and had an address from the 
Mayor and a reply from His Ex. This was the one 
about which one of the aldermen said, when discussing 
the question of our reception, and the expense of it, that 
" a nice little speech from the Governor-General would 
cost nothing." 

People were presented to us after it, and then we 
went to tea at the Macphersons". There was a very 
pleasant dinner of thirty people here in the evening. 

Thursday, iith.—l). and I went to the Mechanics' 
Institute to receive an address. A ball given in the 
evening was very nicely managed, and handsomely done. 
We received the guests with Mr. and Miss Macdonald, 
and then walked through the room to the dais prepared 
for us. I sat there most of the evening talking to differ- 
ent people, and His Ex. danced everything till early next 
morning. 

Friday, i2th.—\i\.er breakfast D, and I visited the 
rooms of the Art Union Society of Toronto, and in the 
afternoon we went to the Curling and Skating Rink, 
where an address was read, to which he replied in very 
happy terms. They presented him with curling stones 
and brooms, and me with a beautiful pair of skates. 

I skated a little, and D. curled. He had a dinner at 
the National Club, and made a very amusing speech. 
Alluding to his duties as a constitutional governor, he 
likened himself to "the humble functionary we see 
superintending the working of some complicated mass 
of chain -driven machinery. This personage merely 
walks about with a little tin vessel of oil in his hand, 
and he i)ours in a droji here and a drop there, as occa- 
sion or the creaking of a joint may require; while his 
utmost vigilance is directed to no higher aim than the 
preservation of his wheels and co."?. frorrs the intrusion 



CH. XVII 

to-day we 
from the 
s the one 
[iiscussing 
of it, that 
:ral would 

I then we 
IS a very 
;ning. 
[echanics' 
an in the 
lely done, 
acdonald, 
prepared 
to differ- 
:arly next 

sited the 
id in the 
ng Rink, 
d in very 
ig stones 
ates. 

dinner at 
J speech, 
ernor, he 
we see 
ted mass 
i merely 
Ills hand, 
as occa- 
while his 
than the 
intrusion 



FEB. 1877 



OTTAIVA. 



329 



of dust ^^vvV., or other foreign bodies." The "Grits" 
be.ng the party now in power, this joke on their name 
was much appreciated. 

^.'^TT'T" '"■■■'■""= '''''' '^ ^« much wind 
we teel it more than at Ottawa 

W,n. ^/.-Hefore church we visited the Sundav- 

dra . After >t we drove out to see Mr. and Mrs. G^owski 
m the.r pretty hou.se; then lunch here; and after k 
J red and I drove out with Mr. W. Howla d to the Gen 
eral Hosp.tal. It is a very Hne one. and we went a 1 
over It, and on to tea with Mrs. Rowland 

Afo,nhy, /,-//, _^^•e fo.^ ladies-Miss Macdonald 

t at th?;-:';' "^>'-^^'^-^'-^ ^--. the gentlentr e' 
•ng at the Club dmner g.ven to His Ex., where he made 
another important speech. 

rw.,, .^//._such a lovely day at last. In the 
afternoon there was a very pleasant little skating-partv 

s e Arrah na Pogue at the Theatre. When the play 
was over we drove back, changed our dresses, and lent 
off to he rail way-car, where we meant to sleep. We re- 
ma.ncd in the station all night, but there uL such a 
"oise that we could not sleen and in h, , 
started for Ottawa. ' ' '" '^"'"'"^ ''^ 

r/uosday, February m.-h, the afternoon I attended 

' rs eVr " ':""'^' ^^^■' '°"^^^' -^y handsome. 

1 he Speech was a rather long one 

In the evening we had a very large Drawing-room in 
tf^e Senate Chamber. There must have been Soo pres- 
entations, and the room got quite crammed. ^ 

somfnr"-''' ''''—^^''^ »'^^ «" evening rehearsal of 
some plays we are getting up, and all the actors r.-.,.e to 
cime first, (jr course ther. were several things to be im- 



^^v^- 



330 



AfY CAI^ADIAN JOURNAL. 



CM. XVII 



proved : the gas did r »{: ofo oMt > len it should, etc. ; 
but by working han' we got it dU right. 

Friday, i6t/i.~\.\i- had the dress-rehearsal. Both 
pieces were immciiseiy successful. D. was delighted; 
the dresses capital, and in " Our Wife " very prettv. 

The " Loan of a Lover " came first, Mr. Kimber and 
his sister doing the principal parts, r. J a^i.i^ them ad- 
mirably. Colonel Littleton and I, Mr. Brodie and Mr. 
McLean, did the smaller parts. The songs were all well 
sung, and we put in a few additional ones. The two 
Freds looked very magnificent in "Our Wife." Fred 
Ward acted extremely well ; his part is most amusing, 
and si;itrd him exactly. Mr. Kimber was at his very 
best ; indeed, we had a very strong cast for the whole 
play. 

Saturday, iyi/i.~A rehearsal of "The Scrap of 
Paper " after lunch, and then a skating-party. There 
was no snow on the top of the slide, and consequently 
no tobogganing ; and it was too cold for much skating, 
so we began to di;nce early. 

Wednesday, 2Jst.~~T\\e day of our theatricals. The 
weather is beautifull, almost too warm. Great misfort- 
unes happened to-day. Miss Lea,* who is staying with 
us to do a picture of me, took h irtshorn by mistake, and 
nearly choked herself. Then D. got a bad headache; 
and at seven we had no r^as at all! I was in despair. 
The order was given to i ollect all the candles and lamps 
in the house, and our cook, who was preparing a supper 
for 400. was left in sudde'; u,.;kness. His wife was iiri- 
ous, and of course a couple of lamps had to be returned 
to him. You may imagine my feelings: al) '' c pas.sages 
and dressing-rooms in a miserable light; lor by vxght 
o'clock only a glimmer of gas had arpfi The stage 



Mr 



mna i.ca yiz>. 



MARCH 1877 



THE A TRICALS. 



331 



was lighted up with candles, which dripped over us. and 
had to be replaced between each scene. It was so de- 
pressing. 

People declared they were deUghted ; and certainly 
they did not mind the want of gas half as much as I did 
At the end I felt much more tired than usual, owing to 
the worry. 

Wednesday, March yth.—l have forgotten to say that 
on Friday, the 2d, there was a great curling-match be- 
tween our Club and J3elleville for a medal ; it was very 
exciting, the V. C. R. being behindhand at first ; but we 
finally won by two points. We have tu play once more 
before we can keep the medal 

Satunuy, /(V/;.— .Such a magnificent day. The trees 
sparkle like diamonds, and every twig and branch is en- 
tirely cased in ice. Against a bright blue sky they are 
too lovely. A large Parliamentary dinner in the even- 
ing. 

Wed>>,^day, 14th.— D. went into town, and after he 
got out o. the sleigh he slipped upon the icy pavement, and 
fel veryhe: :ly on a step. Some men picked him up 
and put h. a .,. his feet; but he could not stand, and' 
fel agai,,, 1 hey en carried him into a shop, where 
he lay on the floor . r quite twenty minutes before he 
could recover his breath at all. Two doctors came 
and bandaged him up tight. They said no bones 
were broken ; but he was very severely bruised and 
shaken, and m the evening suffered reat pain if he 
moved. 

Ofcour.se he had to go to bed, and he mi.ssed the 
"Scrap of Paper"; it went off very well, and people 
were delighted with it. They were so interested in the 
story, and they thought every one very good in their 
parts. There were no hitches at a!! ; the only drawback 
was D 's absence. 



332 



MV CAXADIAX JOUKXAL. 



CH. XVII 



n I * 



i-r-Ml 



Friday, i6i/i.—l). very poorly all day, and quite un- 
able to move. Colonel * and Mrs. Hewitt came for the 
large military dinner which we gave. There were fifty- 
four at dinner, and the i oom looked very well. D. so 
disappointed to miss it. 

H'cJueuiay, 2 J si. — About ii p.m. Mr. Brodie drove up 
to say that he, (leneral Smyth, his son, etc., had been 
burned out, and had lost everything— two theatrical suits 
for Saturday into the bargain ! 

Saiuniay, 2./i/i.—\\'e had the last performance of the 
"Scrap of Taper." D. was able to be at it, and in the 
house we had the Stephensons and Hewitts. There was 
a very large audience, and the piece was a great success. 
Between the acts we had some very good singing and 
playing. 

Monday, Aprii joi/i.—l^. and I were the recipients of 
a great honor to-day. 'I'he cabmen of Ottawa, having 
benefited by the gayeties at Government House this 
winter, got up a testimonial and an r.ddress for us, which 
they presented themselves. 

They came at two o'clock— fourteen very respectable- 
looking men. They read an illuminated address, and 
then presented D. with a handsome stick with a gold top 
and inscription, and me with a silver card-case, on which 
is inscribed : " Presented to Her Excellency the Countess 
of Dufferin by the Hackmen of the City of Ottawa, as a 
token of esteem. April, 1877." 

When the presentation was over, D. showed them the 
house— our sitting-rooms, etc.— and gave them dinner 
in the ball-room. Directly the wine was poured out they 
all stood up and drank the Queen's health. 

Saturday, May i2i/i.—\\e left home, D. on his way to 



* Colonel Hewitt, R. E., at this time was Commandant of the Mill- 
tary College at Kingston, Ontario. 



t of the Mill- 



MAV1877 DISTIXGUISHED VISITORS. 

Philadelphia, and I to pay a visit (with Fred) to Gwen 
a Mont^aL ^^'e had Mr. Reynolds's car, id .^^ 
w.th D at Prescott. We had four hours to wa t but 

Saturday, yp//.._After a very delightful week with 
-ven, Fred and I returned to Ottawt to-da^and th 
baby can.e down to see us of, as .erry and .'niable a^ 

Monday, 2ist.~ln the evening Fred the T ifM.f 

and I walked to the Reynoldses' nn.i . ^''"'^*°"-^' 

of ♦!, • 1 ^cynoiases , and sat out on the stens 

at thc.r house, watch.ng the procession on the wat r in 
honor of the new Pope (Leo XIII). There were a 
q-nt.ty of canoes with torches, wh.ch were v y ; tv 

nLed 1 r"",'"'"'^ '^""^^^ '" ^-- --""-- 

d the fne"" 'T '"'''"' "^ ^"J">-^ ^'^ -^Ik 

house) "'" ''""^ """^'^^''^'^ (^'^^ Reynoldses- 

Tuesday, 22d.-D. arrived from New York at i ,0 
and we spent the afternoon out of doors 

Mon'dir"' ■^"' "'""'" """'' * ""' '" '"'^ ^'^ 
r//«/-.</^,v, ////.-Before lunch an assembly of eccle- 
s.ast.cs arrived: "His Excellency the Apostolic Dele, 
gate to Canada," the Bishops of Ottawa, Newfoundla d 
and Prmce Edward Island, with all their acolytes 

The first-named is Bishop Conroy, of Ardagh, and is 

Itr? ^ ^' '"'^ ^" ''''"''' ^-^"^^^'-^ -^"- '" tlis 
a quantity of „.st.tut.ons, he came with all the others to 
d.n here, and he and his chaplain remained the night 

\Ve d.ned in the ball-room, and were aI>out fifty-five 
peo^ple-Mm^,^^^ Supreme Court Judge' etc 

* The present Ambassador at Mndrid, Sir FranciTru^T^^i^. ^ 



II 



I / 1*1 



I i 




334 



MY CA XA D/A X JO URN A L. 



CH. XVII 



The Delegate has been feted and worked so much in 
Canada, that he seems to be longing for privacy and rest. 
FriddY, Sth. — The Bishop was off at 7.30 to have 
Mass in town ; he returns to lunch, goes back to hold a 
Icvde, and then dines here. 

Tuesday, gth. — All the last week we have had most 
delightful weather, and not a mosquito to destroy our 
pleasure. 

We left Ottawa to-day and had to be up early, and 
to breakfast soon after seven Tlie children were all 
dressed in time to see us off Our traveling-party con- 
sists of Nellie, Fred, ourselves; Mr. Johnston, who 
comes as far as Montreal ; and Colonel Stuart, whom we 
take with us in the Druid for a few days. We leached 
Prescott at ten, and then got on board the river-boat 
and spent a very pleasant day, the weather being de- 
ligiitful. 

The Druid ds nice and comfortable as usual. Nellie 
sleeps in tiie cabin next to us, antl originally intended 
for my maid. Fred and Colonel Stuart have the two 
cabins in the forejiart of the vessel. 

Wednesday, 2ot/i.—\Wc g(,t to ()uel)ec directly after 
lunch, and as soon as I), had dismissed the guard of 
honor we went to the Citadel, and returned to dine on 
board the Druid. Dinner being over, we again started 
on our journey. 

Gasp^ : Saturday, 2jd.—k fine but cold a, id windy 
day. 1), and Fred went off for a little fishing, and 
brought back two salmon and three trout. D. was the 
lucky one. The men say we are a week late (always 
the case with salmon-fishing! ) ; so we shall have to go 
up and live in the bush, instead of in our comfortable 
ship. 

Monday, ^j///.— Mr. Reynolds, Mr. Middleton, and 
the Molsons earne to sec mc in the afternoon, and altcf 



Junk 1877 



FISHIXG. 



335 



dinner D. and I went over tu their yacht. They expect 
to sail in the morning, and are leaving the fishing j,, ,Iis- 
gust Mr. Reynolds has only caught five fish, and Mr. 
Middleton nine. 

'I'he only lucky person has been Colonel McNeill • 
he got thirty-three salmon in the York, and last night 
there came a letter from him to sav that he had just 
reached the Metaped.ac, and in one evening's fishing 
caught four salmon, averaging 2()\ lbs. in weight. 

Tuesday, 26/A.~D. anu Fred have gone up to the 
house, so we shall not see them till we get to them to- 
morrow. Colonel Stuart is fishing down here, and will 
dine on board. 

U'rJm-sdaw -'-''/'.—All the morning preparations for 
our departure were being made, and at two o'clock we 
got oil. We drove in a buggy for two hours, and then 
K:(.t on to horses. We only go at a foofs pace, but 
Nellie enjoyed it 

We arrived at five o'clock at the camp and found the 
river very low, but the water beautifully clear. We had 
a good account of the fishing. Tuesdav afternoon D 
ca-ight SIX salmon and I-rcd four, and yesterday 1> 
caughr four and Fred six ; besides, thev have several 
trout. . elhe and I welcomed them home about eight 
o clock, and saw the fish displaved on the rocks; then 
we dined, and sat at the camp-fire till bedtime Nellie 
amused herself making •« smudges." and filling saucers 
with moss and violets. 

The flif-s arc not so bad as usu.il this year. 

Satun/,fy,so(;,.-U.\ morning's fishing produced three 

salmon, and Fred came home with two. and thirteen 

beautiful trout. After lunch we again went out in the 

'-anoe. At one moment f was to be seen standing on a 



small rock In tb. 

and D, on a chair, which 



middle of the fiver, Nellie upon another, 
we had brought with us and 



' ii 




336 



MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XVII 



planted in the stream. We were all lashing the water, 
but were most unfortunate, and only brought home one 
trout between us. 

Tuesday, jd Ju/y.—l went out with D., and while fish- 
ing for trout had quite an adventure with one. I hooked 
him at the same tmie that I), had on a salmon. I w;is 
standing on a small rock in the middle of the river, and 
had neither landing-net nor salmon-killer with me, as 
D.'s man was to bring the net to me when I wanted it. 
The salmon, however, wished to go down the rapid, so 
I)., his men, and his canoe, had to pass under my rod. 
and between me and my trout. When I had tired the 
fish out, the difficulty was to capture him; but I man- 
aged to get him on my rock, and to unhook him ; and I 
had another on before I), came back. 

He had arranged to go far up the river and sleep, so 
he started off at eleven o'clock, and after lunch Nellie 
and I went out with Fred, As the salmon would not 
rise, we both fished for trout, and had great fun. To 
our surprise, on returning horue we found D. ; no fish 
had arrived so far uji the river, so of course lie did not 
stay, and we arranged to go " out " to-morrow. 

llW//fsd(iy, 4tli. — All busy packing. D. stayed at 
home, and I went out for an hour, and caught ten trout 
—one T^\ lbs., and the others smaller. I fish with a 
beautiful little bamboo rod which with the reel only 
weighs si.\ ounces. 

It was a lovely day ; I was quite sorry to leave our 
camp, as I enjoyed it very much this year, and we were 
less troubled with flies than usual, Wp had the Captain 
to dine with us, and started immediately after dinner. 

Thursday, ^th.—k beautiful day, and a lovely sunset 
and double rainbow. " A rainbow at night is a sailor's 
delight," so we hope it will be very fine to-morrow, when 
we ought to reach Tadousac. 



I 



CH. XVII 



JUNE 1877 



7 A DO USA a 



337 



Friday, ^///.-Arrived about eight in the morn'nLr- a 
most beautiful day, the chiltlreii all well, and enjoying 
the seaside very mucli. We sat out on the balconv, and 
walked on the rocks. 

Siou/ay, /j///._We have spent a very pleasant ten 
days. The weather has been lovely, and we have sat 
out the most of the day. We were able K, bathe oc- 
casionally, although the water is always very cold here 
— quite icy. 

D. drew a good deal, and had finished some very nice 
sketche.s, which yesterday met with a sad mishap We 
went on a fishing expedition np the Saguenav, taking 
he (Mllespies with us in the Druid. We breakfasted on 
board, and then ha<l a very pleasant voyage of two 
hours to the fishing-grounds. When we got back I) 
found he had left all his sketching things and finished 
drawings below high-water mark at the fishing-place He 
sent a man in a canoe to look for them, who found them 
soaked and spoiled. ' 

_ We are now returning to Ottawa to prepare for a tour 
in Manitoba, to which we are all looking forward with 
great pleasure. 



ill 



\i 11 



I 



CHAPTER XVI 1 1. 




THE NOKTHWKST, 

Monday, July joth.—Wtt left Ottawa this morning in 
good spirits and in smartish clothes, which we put on 
for the guard of honor and the friends who come to see 
us start. Once really off, we arrayed ourselves in cooler 
and more suitable traveling garments. 

The day was not so hot as we expected, and when bed- 
time came we all acknowledged that the time had flown. 
The maids, who are traveling more luxuriously than 
any ladies on board, grumble at having to sleep in the 
ordinary Pullman. Nellie and I have a cabm together. 

Tuesday, j/j/.— The train behaved in an extraordinary 
manner during the night. It rushed along at a furious 
pace for a couple of miles, pulled up with a frightful 
bump, stopped to shriek, went on again after three or 
four jerks, and in this way kept us thoroughly awake 
for what appeared the whole night, but was, I suppose, 
less than half of it. I felt a little the wor.se for the 
night's shaking, but a good breakfast in our own car 
and an hour spent outside of it in the fresh morning air 
quite revived me. 

We had such a dusty day: five minutes sufficed to 
cover tables, sofas, our faces, hands and hair with the 
dirtiest powder; and it was (|uite useless to wash, for 
we became as bad as ever immediately after. We were 
gn glad wh?n %-e arrived at Lake Michigan, and fell the 



AUG. 1877 



Sr. PAUL, 



339 



the dust of the ra.Iway. We had an hour at the hotel 
and .turned to our Puil.an n.ch the better folTur 

Wednesday August ^sf.-W^ had rather a pleasant 

^v. cros^d a ve::-;:: -;:i -^^ 

of the Mississippi, on which the town is built ^ 

nnH^/ T ''"""" ^ '^"'^" gentlemen came on board 
and too us to the hotel in carnages; and we enjoyed 
a night on shore very much indeed 

r^«r.^.z>- ^,^.„we breakfasted at 8.30, and almost 
d.rectly after held a little reception. A g eat numbe 
of gentlemen were presented to u, and t£n ne^d 
a speech, to which I), replied. They told me after! 
wards they were .'more than delighted " with his «< re- 

Tim affair was scarcely over when I was hurried off 

I)^ and (.eneral Johnston, and Mr. Rice went. They 

had been for many years in Congres,. and was a person 
to^whom every one appealed for every sort of 'infor" 

The second carriage contained General Terry and 
the Littletons. General Terry .s the officer who was in 
command when General Custer attacked the Indi , 

N:;.iruieii^^^..'^^''v---'-«^'^>'-^^'.^^i;^ 



an.i! mnrc -rentleme 



^^ -• ""^= ""Mc •;eiuiemcn. 
Wc drove to Minneapolis, through a flat 






aj 



country, 



il'.:i 






, 



1 




340 



A/V CAXADIAN JOURXAL. 



CH. xvin 



sometimes bush, sometimes prairie, and sometimes 
beautiful cornfields. Minneapolis is younger than St. 
Paul, the latter being about thirty years of age ; it is, 
I think, more llourishing-looking, and the residencies in 
the town, each surrounded with lawns and flower-gar- 
dens, look charming and comfortable. The hotel where 
we lunched is a very fine one. 

We soon set off again, and went to see the St. An- 
thony Falls. They consist of a series of rapids and an 
artificial "slide"; the water was wearing away the 
rock, and the hand of man has intervened to keep it 
in check, and to prevent the lumber interests being 
injured by Nature. Then we went over a flf)urmill, 
the flour here being a great spi'cialitt'. This mill turns 
out a thousand barrels a day, some of a peculiar, very 
white quality, which makes the most delicious bread; 
it contains the most nutritious parts of the wheat, and 
is made by a newly-invented process; but I will not 
attempt to describe this, any more than I have the 
engineering works on the river. 

Into our carriages again, and off to sec the Minne- 
haha Falls. " From the waterfall, he called her ' Minne- 
haha •— ' Laughing Water.' " The season has been very 
dry, and there was very little water coming over the 
Fall ; but I am very glad to have seen it, as Longfel- 
low's poem is one of my earliest recollections. When 
we refurnctl to our carriages we changed company a 
little. (leneral Terry came with us, and we went with 
him to the Fort 

It is beautifully situated on a very high cliff at the 
junction of the Mississippi and the Minnesota. As we 
drove into th(^ court formed by the barracks, we were 
saluteti by soldiers, and found the troops and the band 
arranged (what an unmilita'-y expression!) on the grass, 
looking Mj >{ay with their uniforms and colors.. The 



CH. XVIII 



AUG. 1877 



THE FORT. 



34 r 



band played, and we walked about, and then the officer 

duced to h.s sister and to another lady, and through 

torti ication, looking over the rivers. It was cover..H 
overhead, and there was a balustrade rou d i , . 
me.ited with flags. Such a pretty place! We n ""d 

r::;^:";." ''' "^'' '''''-'-' -'> ^-^ ^-^-n; the 

VVhen we left we crossed the Mississippi in a sort of 

wirl t'tr''^' "^-^ "^''^ ^" ^" ^-^'-d^ - o - 
wards by the current of the river itself • the flu lu.n. 

- pulled in a slanting direction, so IL le t 

We reached St. Paul about eight o'clock, said good- 

t'MVRU'd''"^ ^"'— --^d were' introdTed 
Ih tt \ 7^ '''' ^''° ^PP^^^^^ ^" be very nice 
seeing here. Neihe came home in tremendous snints 
In her carnage there was a doctor, who had laid hi'ns f 

an M 'rr '""• '^"^ "'^«- ^'- ^"i"ks verT'. wittv'' 
and delightful. At the Fort she was much interes" '.t 

acb ,^. ."-^'"'^'' f'^'^^ he at any rate was all rieht she 
asked h.m to show her the gent;, man with the w o^en 
leg- He replied that he was the one. and in her c nfa 
s.onse could only ...ink of asking .im if it hurt ," 

nempt was made to induce I), to speak to the crowd- 
but he declined. Every one has been so kind and avii 



Frit}. 



here ; we have enjoyed our d 
—We left the hotel 



and once more got into 



ay very much, 
early in the 



I "fir, 



morn 
ur train. We journeyed on all 



If! 



I 



MY CANADIAN' JO URA' A L. 



CH. XVIII 



|! li . I 



( \ 



ti I 



day, throtish swamps, lakes, and prairie-lands. In the 
evening we went thrcnigh some burning woods. They 
must have been on fire in about a hundred places, but 
the flames had not yet joined together into one devastat- 
ing sheet. 

Saturday, 4th. — I was awoke by the most disagree- 
able bumping and jolting, and soon discovered that we 
were off the line. It took us two hours and many shak- 
ings before we got on again. We were now traveling 
through the flattest of flat prairies, very ugly and very 
green. About ten o'clock by the new time — for our 
watches are called upon to change their opinions as to 
the hour at every place we get to — we found ourselves 
at Fisher's Landing, and the steamer ready to take us 
up the Red River. 

We have to leave our house-upon-wheels, and to em- 
bark upon the boat, which friendly hands have decorated 
with flags, wreaths of leaves, and flowers. She — the 
steamer — is a stern-wheeler, such as we had on the 
Fraser River ; she draws very little water, and certainly 
has an extraordinary passage to perform. The river, 
which to all intents and purjioses is the Red River (ihe 
first few miles it is called the Red Lake River), is very 
muddy, very narrow, and extremely sinuous. I can 
scarcely convey to you an idea of the extraordinary 
manner in which it twists and turns itself about : think 
of a braiding-pattern, or of a zigzag path up a very 
steep hill ; or imagine sailing through hundreds of small 
ponds all joined together, the second being concealed 
by the curve of the first, and you may form an idea 
of it. 

I can only tell you that we go from one bank to the 
other, crushing ami crashing against the trees, which 
grow down to the water-side; the branches sweep over 
the deck, and fly in our faces, and leave pieces behind 



CH. XVIII 



ids. In the 

)ocis. They 

places, but 

ne devastat- 

st disagree- 
red that we 
many shak- 
• w traveling 
ly and very 
le — for our 
nions as to 
id ourselves 
to take us 

and to em- 

e decorated 

She — the 

lad on the 

id certainly 

The river, 
I River (ihe 
•er), is very 
us. I can 
traordinary 
)0ut : think 

up a very 
ids of small 
f concealed 
rm an idea 

hank to the 
rees, which 
sweep over 
eces behind 




II ''^ 



I; 

'r'l. 



AUG. 1877 



THE RED RIVER. 



343 



them. I had just written this whe.i I gave a shriek as I 
saw my ,nk-bottle on the point of being swept overboard 
by an mtrusive tree; and D.'s hat was knocked off his 
head by it. The consequence of this curious navigation 
«s that we never really go on for more than three mni- 
utes at a time : we run against one bank, our steam 
shut off, and in some mysterious manner we swing rou 
till our bow is into the other; then we rebound, and go 
on a few yards, till the sharp curve brings us up against 
the side. Our stern wheel is very often ashore, and our 
captam and pilot must require the patience of saints I 
old you when the last branch came on board • well I 
have been writing as fast as possible since, and now ^e 

t'hL'w "r ""/''' '''" "^'^ • ^" >'°" "^^y --'ly believe 
that we travel seventeen miles for two that we make 

and were it not a lovely day, and had we not a delicious 
come. ' ^^^ ""' ^""^""^" '"'^h^ ""^ b^- 

We were told at St. Paul that we should be eaten 
w:th mosquitoes; that no oil, no veils, no gloves 
leggings would keep out the devouring monsters • fan v 

are able to sit gloveless on deck and write 

We breakfasted early, and were hungry for a one- 
o c oek lunch, which was more elegant than'substanti" 

most'::LT lf"f' '''''''""^ ^"^ '—am t 
most attractive dish to be procured. I hope dinner will 
be more suited to our appetites 

Rivl- itTf'7''/"' '-' "^^^ '^ ^'- "R^d Lake 
is on V t'wl. T '' ''' ''''''' ^^°"^^h ^he distance 

he Red River itself, we found the stream wide enough 
for us to go straight down it, less sinuous, but quite as 

muddy and uninterestinrr Trp- i 

, '-'to « recs cuiiic down to Ih* 

waters edge, and one can see nothing beyond themj 



li 



)■ m 



rn.- 



CM. XVII ^ ' 

1 

3 mUch^in , , 
:y and rest. 
;o to have . 
,t9; ij'o.ld a * . 

>'^ ; ■, , , .V ■_ . 

had most ■ : '. 
iesti-oy our'^ 



eafiy, and 
ni were- ^11 
jarty Qpn- 
ston, • who 
, whoni we 
^e reached**; 
river-boat 
being d^- 



i 



w< 



ertie 
' intended; 
J the n?o 



/-:i 




nd windy ♦, 
^ing, ami 
. w^s Hi 6^ 
e (adwrays 
avp to go 
niortahle 

itbn, and ^ 
md aftlf 






■ ^ 



jiwV 






iuNE 1877 



«v 



FISHING. 



"335 



dinner^, and I went over to their yacht. They expect 
to sail in the iporning, and are leavihg the fishing in dis- 

- w'i;, ^'■•'^^y^o'^'s has only caughlfive fish, and Mr 
Middleton nine. • 

The oniy lucky person has been Colonel McNeill- 
he got thif^y-threfe salmon in the York, a«d last night 
, there came ^vietter from him to say that he had just 
Reached the Metapedi^c, and in one- evening's fishing 
cauglit four salmon, averaging 29J fbs. in weight 
■ Tuesday, 26th.^\^.^,r,d.\\t.A have go^e up .0 the 
house, so we shalj^ not see them- till w,^ ^et "to them to- 
morrow. Colonel Stuart is fishing down here, and will 
dme on board. 

,/r^;/;^.^,^v, ^7M:-A11 the morning preparations for 
our departure were being made, a*id at two o'clock we 
got otf. . W« drove in a buggy fc/r two hours, and then 
got on to horses. We only g(/,.at a foot's pace, but 
Nellie en jo j"^ it,- \- " 

We arrived arfive o'clock at the camp and found the 
river very low, .but the water beautifully dear!.' We had 
a good account of the fishiijg.- Tuesday afterncx.n D 
caught SIX §#mon and Fred four, and yesterday I) ' 
caught four and Fred six;, besides, they have several 
trout. Nellie and I welcomed them h^me about eight 
.0 clock, and saw the fish displayeH on the rocks; then 
we dmed, and .sat at the camp-fire till bedtime. Nellie 
amused herself making " smudges," and filling saucers 
with moss and violets, 

Thp flifi&are not so bad as usu^I (ihis year. 

.W^o^, joM.-p.'s morningi^ftshing produced thre«: ' 
salmoWr _^nd Fre^ came home with two, and thirte«w'- ' 
beautiful tfout.,* After lunch We again went out in ths 



tjanoe. ' At 00^ mometit I was to be seen standi 



t )g on a 



».H^i rock in the middle of the river, Nellie upon another, 
and D. op a chair, whjch^ we had brt,ught -with^u. and 






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336 



MY CANADIAA; JOUHXAf qH.xviY 



planted i;i the sf ream. We were all lashing the waterj 
but were most unfortunate, and only brought home one 
trout between us. 

Tuesday, jd ////y.— I went out with D., and while fish- 
^ ing for trout had quite an adventure with one. I hooked 
him. at the same^ time that D. had on a salmon. 1, was 
standing on a small rock in the middle of the rii'er, apd 
had neither landing-net nor salmon-killer with me, as 
D.'s nian. was to bring the net tome when I wanted it. 
The salmon, ho\Vever, wished to go down the rapid, so 
D., his men, and his canoe, had to pass under my rod. 
and between me and my trout. When I had tired fhe 
fish gut, the difficulty was to capture him; but I man. 
aged to get him on my rOck, and to unhook him ; and I 
Ijad another on before D. came back. 

He had arranged to ^o far up the river and sleep, so 
he started off at eleven o'clock, and after lunch Nellie 
and I went out with Fred." As the s^mon would not 
>ise, we both fished for trout, and had great fun. To 
our surprise, on returnirtg honie we foi^nd D, ; no fish 
had arrived so far up the river, so of course' he did riot 
stay, and we arranged to go " out " to-morrow. ' 

IVeduesday, 4th. — All busy^packing. D. stayed at , 
home, and I went out for an hour, and .caught ten trout 
— one 3^J lbs., and the others smaller. I fi&h with a 
beautiful little' bamboo rod which with the reel only 
weighs six ounces. 

It was a lovely day; I was quite sorry tb leave our 
camp, as I enjoyed it very much this year, and we were 
less troubled with flies than usual. We had the Ca|)tain 
to dine with us, and started immediately after dinner, 
Thursday, sth.—Kht3iW\\{\x\ day, and a lovely sunset . 
,,and double rainbow. " A rainbow at night is a sailor's 
delight," so we Hope it will be very fine to-nii^frow. when 



i 




CH. xvn 

the water, 
t home one 

i while fish- 
. I hooked 
ion. -J, was 
e riter, afid 
k^ith me, ag 
wanted it. 
le rapid, so 
ler my rod. 
J tired fhe 
3ut I man- 
liim ; and I 

id sl-eep, so 
nch Nellie 
would not 
t fun. To 
). ; no fish 
le did riot 

^•^ ■ . . " - 
stayed at , 
t ten trout 
i&h with a 
reel only 

i leave our 
d we were 
le Ca|>tain 
dinner, 
e\y &uriset 
> a sailor's 
row, when 



JUNE 1877 



■h\. 



TADOUSAC. 



t^in 



Friday, <5//i.-Arri vecf about eight in the morning • -a 
most beautiful day, the children all well, and enjoying 
the seaside very much. We sat out on the.b'aleony: and , 
walked on the rocks. 

- Sunday istA.-^t have spent a very plea^am^-tcn 
days. The weather has been lovely, and we have,«at 
out the most of the (Tay. We were able to bathe dc- 
casionally, although the. water is always very cold here * 
—quite icy. . 

D drew agood deal, and had finished some very nice / 
sketches, which yesterday met with a sad mishap We ■ 
went on a fishing expedition up the Saguenay, taking .. 
the G.llespies with us in the Druul We breakfasted on^"^" 
board, and then had a' very pleasant voyage crf^ two ■ 
hours to the fishing-grounds. When we got back "D 
found he had left all his sketching things and finished 
drawings below high-water mark at the fishing-place He 
sent a mart b a canoe to look for them; who fbund then! 
soaked and spoiled. ^ ' 

We are now returning to Ottaw. to pfepare for a tour 
in Manitoba, to which we are all looking forward with 
great pleastire. 1 



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^ 




CHAPTER XVIII. 



\ 



THE NORTHWEST. 

Monday, July joth.-^Ne: left Ottawa this mornfng in 
good spirits and in smartish clothes, which we put on 
for the guard of honor and the friends who come to see 
us start. Once really off, We arrayed ourselves in cooler 
and more suitable traveling garments. 

■ -Thfe day was not so hot as we expected, and when bed- 
time cajne we all acknowledged that the time had flown. 
, The maids, who'are traveling more luxuriously than, 

any ladies on board, grunible at having to sla^p in the 
ordinary Pullman. Nellie and I have'k<:abitfTogether. 

'r««</a>',j/j/'.— The tfain behaved in an extraordinary 
manner during the night. It rushed along at a furious 
pace for A. couple of miles, pulled up with a frightful 
bump, stopped to shriek, went on again after three or 
four jerks, and in this way kept us thoroughly awake 
If, / fo'' what appeared the whole night, but was, I siippose, 

less than half of it. I felt a tittle the worse for the 
night's shaking, but a good breakfast in .our own car 
and'an hour spent outside of it in the fresh morning air 
quite revived riie. 

We had such a, dusty day: five minutes suflficed to 

coyer tables, sofas', out faces, hands and hair with the 

dirtiest powder; and it was quite useless to wash, for 

we became a3ba"(j[ as- <>Ver immediately after. We werp 

Td glad wh^nX* arrivedaFXake Michigan, and felt the 



i.-* 



r;:S ;: 






^4»t ' <*"*!*■" 






AUG. 1877 



sr. PAd£ 



339 



.. the d.s, of the railway, We had » hour W<hnm!f 
a„^^ ..„ed .0 o.. P.„„a„ .„.H, .he be:U-L'?ui 

of the M.ss.sMppi, on wh.ch th'e town is buik ' ^ 

«nH .' V^ ''^'' u" ^ ^°'"" gentlemen came on board 
and took us to the -hotel in c"arr,iages ; and we er^oved' 
• a n.ght " on shore " very much Weed ^"-""^^^^^ - 

dire^vl^' "^Z^l "^"^^ ^8.30. and almost 
. du-ectly after held a little reception. A great number 

a speech: to wh.ch D. replied. They^told m»5 after 
wards they were " more than delighted" witM^s^": 

This affair was scarcely over when I was hurried off 

iJ. and r General Johnston, and iVIr. Rice went Thev 

were bpth pleasant men. citizens of this town ; th. litter 

. had been for mahy years in Congress, and was a p V o„ 

t.^ whom evefy o,e appealed, fpr every s6tt -of '121 

_ The second carriage' Contained" CTen^ral Terry »t,d 
the Littletons. - General Terry i^ the officer who It^t 
command when General CUsL aU«cked hi Inln " 

i^««H<j, Hie A. jj. C.'s. and Mow gtjitlfemen. 

Wff drqvc to Mianetpoli,,, through' a flat country, ' 



^\ . 






■V>^A 



340 



MV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XViil 



HI- 



sometimes bush, sometimes prairie, and Sometimes 
beautiful cornfields. Minneapolis is younger than St. 
Paul, the latter being about thirty years of age ; it is, 
I think, more flourishing-looking, and the residences it) 
, the town, each surrounded with lawns and flower-gar- 
dens,' look charming and com^rtable. The hotel whe^ 
we lunched is a very fine one/"* 

We soon set off a^gain, and went ^0 see the St. An- 
thony Falls. They consist of a serllg^f rapids and an 
artificial " slide " ; the water wa^ vi^earing away the 
rock, and the jjand of man has intervened to keep it 
in check, and to prevent #he lumber interests being 
injured by Nature. Then we went over a flour-mill, 
the flour here being a great sp<'cialit('. This mill turns 
out a thousand> barrels a day, some of a peculiar, very, 
white quality,\ which makes the most delicious bread;, 
it contains the most nutritious parts of the wheat, and 
ife made by a. newly-invented, process; but I will not 
attempt, to describe this, any more than I have the 
engineering works on the river. 

Into our carriages ag^iin, and off to see the Minne- 
haha Falls. " From the waterfafl, l^e called her ' Minne- - 
haha '— ' Laughii^g Water."'" The season has-been very 
dry, and there was very little water coming over the 
Fall; but I am very glad to have seen jt, as Longfel- 
low's poem is one of my earliest recoHections. When 
w« returned to' our ca|fJ4J?^s we changed company a 
Jitlje General Terry canie with us, and we wertt with 
him to the Pdrt 

■it is beautifufly situated on k very high cliff at the* 
niaction 4f the Mississippi and the Minnesota, As we 
^foVe.tntO the court formed by the barracks^ We were' 
saltited by seldiers, and found the troopg and the band 
»rr^ ns;ed (what an unmi4itarv ftXprpssinn f) on the gr.^c,r, 



looking so gay with their uniforms and colors.. The 



Hi^Ha^H 






AUG. 1877 



THE FORT. 



341 



band played, and we walked about, and thenth,> nffi 

,Tt ''"'' '° ""o"'" lady, and throuirh 

fottmcauon, looking over the rivers. I, „as covered 
overhead, and there was a balustrade rou" d h Irl, 
n,e„ted with flags. Such a pretty place We '^3 

ZW^: "" .^°°'' ^'^'""'"^ ^i' -" 'ook.nnt 'the 
When we left we crossed the Mississippi in a sort of 

Ta P„' ed i'n '"T"' "' '"^ "^" '"^" ■• ">= flat-boat 
was pulled m a slantmg direction, so that the stream 

We reached St. Paul about eight o'clock, said good 

to Mr R,ce s daughters, who appeared to be very nice 
girls^the only ladies Ve hav« k.h " ^"^^ "'^^^ 

•seeing here Nellie Jam. h *". «PPortunity of , 

Tn h„. . ™® ^""'^ '" tremendous SDirit«i 

o t rr'''\'''''' "^^ ^ ^'^^^-^ -ho had laid hi' ^f ;". 

out to amuse her, and whom she thinks very <' witfV 
and de irhtfa! Af fi,^ r . . '""k>> very witty 

:;a:in7d:j^rthrhVa?"' '-' "'°''' ^''^™-^ 

attemnr '"^P"^/'^ -^"-^ serenaded by a b«nd^and an 
attempt was made to induce D to sn^afc f« ^ana an 
but he declined^ Everv on! u ^V^^*"' *" '^^^^ ""*d; 
to he K "^""^"^ ^'Very one has been so kmd and civil 

J^r,<i^y,.J^ZZWc left the hotel early in themornm.. ^. 
and once more got into our tr^.n w • ^"*'"'°'^""?«. '" 

Koi into our tram. We journeyed on alj * 



. , A .« , ..«|. H' - It 






342 



MV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XVIII 



I- 



day, through &Wamps, lakes, and prairie-lartds. In the 
evening wb went through some burning woods. They 
must have been on fire in about a hundred places, but 
the flames had not yet joined together into one devastat- 
ing sHedt. , 

Saturday i 4th. — I was awoke by the most disagree- 
able bumping and jolting, and soon discovered that we, 
were off the line. It took us two hours And many shak- 
ings before we got on again. We were now traveling 
through the flattest of flat prairies, very ugly and very 
green. About ten o'clock by the new time — for our 
watches are called upon to change their opinions as to 
the hour at every plac€ we get to — we founff ourselves 
at Fisher's Landing, and the steamer ready to take us 
up the Red River. 

We have to leave our houjse-upon-wheels, and to em* 
bark upon the boat, which friendly hands have decorated 
with flags, wreaths of leaves, and flowers. She — the 
steamer— -is a -* stern-wheeler, such as we had ' on the 
Fraser River;, she draws very little water, and certainly 
has an extraordinary passage to perform. The river, 
which to ail intents and purposes is the Red River (the 
first few miles it is called the Red r|ake River), is very 
muddy, very narrow, and extremely sinuous. I can 
scarcely convey to you an idea of the extraordinary 
manner in which it twists and turns itself about : think 
of a braiding-pattern, or of a zigzag path up a very 

l^steep hill ; or imagine sailing through hundreds of small 
ponds all joined together, the second being concealed 
by the curve of the first, and yqu ma,y form an idea 
of it. 

•I can only tell you that we go from one bank to the 
other, crushing and crashing against the trees, which 

Jgj^yy dawa to the, water-side^ tlifcJ3raiiche& -S-W^sep .Qver— 



the deck, and fly in our faces, and leave pieces behind j 



C 



■MBi^^a^ —i 



CH. xvni 

;. In the 
Is. They 
laces, but 
devastat- 

disagree- 
d that vfe, 
any shak- 
traveling 
and very 
—for our 
ons as to 
ourselves 
) take us 

id to em* 
lecorated 
She — the 
1 on the 
certainly 
he river, 
.iver (the 
), is very 
I can 
Lord.inary 
It: think 
p a very 

of small 
oncealed 

an idea 

ilk "to the 
es, which 
egp. -Oyer,,. 
;s behind * 




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''■'TSf/'^lf^ 9W 



AUG. 1877 



T/f£ RED RIVER. 



\ 



t 



343 



them. I had just written this when I gave a shriek as I 
saw my mk-bottle on the point of being swept overboard 
byanmtrus.ve tree; and D.'s hat was knocked off Ins 
. head by it. The consequence ofthis curious navigation 
IS that we never really go onJ|Uore than three min- 
utes at a time: we run againUfne bank, our steam is 
Shut off, and m some mysterious manner we swing round 
till our bow is into the other; then we rebound, and go 

2e'T 'n"^"' ''" ''' '^"'■P ^"^^^>>g« "s up against 
the s.de. Our stern wheel ,s very p/fen ashore, and our 

captam and pilot must require the patience of saints I 

told you when the last branch came on board- well I 

have been writing as fast as possible since, and now ;e 

are ashore on the other side ; so you may easily believe 

that we travel seventeen miles for two that we make 

a.r^I don t kno^ow bad our language might not be- 

We were^told at St. Paul that we should be eaten 
^.th mosqu.toes; that no oil, no veils, no gloves no " 



leggmgs would keep out t!^ devouring monsters; fa^^cj! 

find tflere are none, and that we 



our delight, then, to 

' ' ... V— V ttit nunc, 

are able to s.t gloveless on^deck and write, 
n' ,^? ^^'^"^/^^^^d ^-^ly- and were hungry for a one- 
o dock lunch, which was more.elegant than substantial 
S^rdmes were the p'^c. </e r^sis,an,e, and ice-cream he 
Tnost attractive dish to be procured T LT ^ ,? 

be more-suited to our appetS^ "^^ ''''" '""''' "^" 

Rivl!^. r'f "^'- '^''^^ "^^^ '^ ^he "Red Lake 

^Zy L^:^T """ '' ''''''' ^^°"^h the distance 

heRLfifr vT/°'"' '" P°'"^- ^h^"^^ reached 

or us fo^r 1 '7' '^""^ *'^^ stream wide enough 

^^ to go straight do wn it, less sinuou., but ^ jte as 



^^s>T« ""''"'"'^^""ffv TT^ees come dowfTto the 
waters edge, and one can see nothing beyond them; 



1 



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TEST TARGET (MT-3) 



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moiogi'apnic 

Sciences 
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33 WIST MAIN STRUT 

WHSTIR.N.Y I4SS0 

(716) •7a-4S03 






344 



MV CAXAD/AJV JOURNAL. 



CH. XVIII 



Wiii 



\\ I 



behind stretches out the prairie, and every now and 
tlieu we were just able to sec how thin the screen of 
trees really is between the river and tlie plains. 

Alas! alas! towards evening tlie mosquitoes ap- 
peared, and bit us liorribly. At dinner (a very good 
one) we weie eaten while eatnig, and were very glad to 
leave the lighted saloon, and sit on the bow of the 
steamer in the air. The night was very dark, and the 
river looked gloomy and mysterious, and we sat there 
and watched the black retUctions in the water. Our 
steamer whistled, and in the distance we lieard it an- 
swered. Slowly we turned a point and saw another 
boat approaching us. It lt)oked beautiful in the dark, 
with two great bull's-eyes, green and red lamjjs and 
otiier lights on deck, creeping towards us; we stopped, 
and backed into the shore, that it might pass us. It 
came close and fired off a cannon, and we saw on the 
deck a large transparency with the words "Welcome, 
Lord l)ulferin"on it, and two girls dressed in white 
with flags in their hands; then a voice sang "Canada, 
sweet Canada," and many more voices joined the chorus, 
and they sang " Cod save the Queen " and " Rule, Bri- 
tannia," and cheered for the Covernor-Ceneral as they 
began to move slowly away, and he had only just time 
to call out a few words of thanks before they disappeared 
into the darkness. 

It was very striking, and we scarcely recovered from 
our surprise and bewilderment before the thing was 
gone. 

Sunday, i;th. — There was a very heavy shower of rain 
this morning, but happily it cleared up before we reached 
Pembina; there the American troops were drawn up to 
receive us, and we went ashore, and up to the Fort, 
where we saw four ladies and some inameuvres, and 
spent about an hour. A little way farther, and wc 



I H 



CH. XVIII 

:ry now and 
he screen of 
iins. 

(squitoes ap- 
a very good 
very glad to 

bow of the 
lark, and the 
\vc sat there 
water. Our 
heard it an- 
saw another 
in the dark, 
J lainjjs and 
we stojiped, 
pass us. Jt 
: saw on the 

" Welcome, 
ed in white 
ijj "Canada, 
J the chorus, 

" Rule, Bri- 
eral as they 
ly just time 
disappeared 

overed from 
: thing was 

ower of rain 
; we reached 
Irawn up to 
<) the Fort, 
I'uvres, and 
er, and wd 



AUG. 1877 



THE FJiOXT/KN. 



345 



^t'm''';r;^' '•''"' ""^^'^'-^-^--^ianterr. 

-everyprettya;:he!^:^Ue^Lr!:^^'''^'•^"'' 

.no^ecnhemalldown^UefounrpJo:;;::^^ 
Fci on It, at.d tlags all round it 1 v..r.. 1 

of honor (m.lit.a) anri -, / ' ^''"''^ ^'"^''^ 

Someof til V ■'■^' '"■^'"«"' '^"^'^'^ ^"''ians. 

bomt of Me latter were n, red coats, some in blankets 

cune wUMKunted faces, feathers n, the.r ha'^^S^^ 
n.cdak, etc. ; others were more cjuietlv got up but U 

U c walked dow., an,! looked at the women and chil- 

sacred. Ihe lust described then, as very happy and 
Pn.sperous, the second named some grievance to be re- 
uressed. 

U also spoke to the Mennonites (Russians) : thev are 
KCttu^g on very well, and want to have n,anv n^orV. of 
tl'c.r people out here. I), e.xplained to them that as far 
as we are concerned we should be verv «lad to h ,ve 
tl.cm. but that it was in,p..ssible for us to take any steps 
f l>nug then, from the.r own homes. They are very 
Kood settlers, and in ad.lition to the virtues of sobriety 
:"Hl '"dustry they add the advantage of bring.ug money 
• nto the country. ' 

In the afternoon we had prayers on board, and the 

jrentlemen bathed ,n the Red River; they seemed 

•' enjoy ,t very much, and stayed in so io„g that 

l>e moscpmoes on shore found us out, and came on 

uourtl. 



w 



reach Win 



e were stationary all ni^hl. a 



s we did not want t 



nipcg till a reasonable hour in th 



n 



e morning. 



I 



346 



.)/>■ C.W'ADIAX JOURXAL 



CH. xvui 



At five o'clock the gentlemen got up, and went out 
duck-shooting, and shot four birds. 

We have been very comfortable on board, though 
our sleeping-cabins are extremely small, and there is 
scarcely room to turn round in them. 

We heard Nellie describe her papa to a girl, who 
asked her to point out the Governor-deneral, as " the 
gentleman in the chimney-pot." She was very anxious 
to get Colonel Littleton to tell her the Kreemason 
secrets, and, failing, saiil, with a sigh of relief, "Well, I 
dare say when women get their rights we shall know 
them." 

My only difficulty is in keeping her at all smart on 
these occasions, for no sooner is she dressed than she 
visits the coal-hole, or clinil)s into some untliought-of 
place, and returns to me, each of her exploits marked by 
stains and smudges. 

Monday, 6th. — We left our anchorage early in the 
morning, and came in sight of Fort Garry about ten 
o'clock. The Red River appears to divide the town in 
two, but we left it, and turned into the Assiniboine, 
round the corner of which we found the wharf. We hao 
two hours to wait before landing. Some people came 
on board to see the Governor-General, and he arranged 
for me to start half an hour before him, and to go to 
the City Hall, where we ladies sat till the noise of banda 
and shouting announced his arrival in a carriage-and- 
four. 

The town of Winnipeg is rapidly increasing, and to- 
day, with its decorations of transplanted trees and flags, 
it looked gay and pretty. A very large number of peo- 
ple assembled round the platform, and came along the 
streets with I)., and some very handsome arches had 
been put up. Addresses were read and answered, the 
soldiers inspected, and then I got with D, into the car- 



AUG. 1B77 



wi.vxiPEa. 



347 



Hage, and dr„v=,„..sl,v„ Heights,".. here « are .0 

-.'j'^^f^.:^-:---^---^oa. 

tenant-Governor Mr Morric , I he Lieu- 

nJ'n'l- ''•''u'"" '' ^ '"""8^^' ^"d lent to us bv Mr 

's really too far away to enterfiin 'n n T "'" 
china, or the knives and fork wherewi h t "\^'" 

or a dinner ' ' ^^^'"""^'^^ '« &'ve a ball 

.i.etr.r;'Ktrt;".t.:„';'; ir": f ^ •" " '- 

i,aitwa>, Which forms a n re oI<I.fTthi,.„„^ 
court in front of the house. old-fashioned 

In the evening we went to a " Parlor Kntertainment " 
-J- ongs. speeches, and change of costumes- "n-H 



track on the prairie, and 



'<>m the town., 'r.i. 



-'3u is a sort of 



we soon found that we were off 



I 1! 



s% 



348 



MY CANADIA.W JOURS'AL. 



CH. XVIII 



I r 



li.*:! 



it. We asked the other carriage to go first, and the 
driver replied that he had no lights ; our man said his 
lamps dazzled him, so finally the other carriage did go 
first. It took us over an hour to get back, and if the 
four other nights on which we have to go into Winnipeg 
are dark or wet, I don't know what we shall do. 

Wednesday, 8lh. — We had a visit from an Indian. He 
was sent by a chief, who lives twenty-si.v miles away, to 
ask when the Governor-General would visit him. The 
messenger was a fine-looking man. His hair was long, 
and he wore a fillet round his head with eagles' feathers 
fastened into it. He had a red-cloth tunic embroidered 
with beads, with quantities of ermine tails hanging down 
from all the seams, each tail sewn into the center of a 
circle of beads. Round his neck he wore a large neck- 
lace of bears' claws, moccasins on his feet, and European 
trousers, which were generally hidden by a large blue 
blanket, which he pulled round him in very graceful 
folds. We had rather a long talk with him, and gave 
him some breakfast; he ate a few mouthfuls, and then 
asked for paper in whicl; to wrap up the rest. Mrs. Lit- 
tleton asked him about his religion. He said lie had 
none — that the Indians were here from the Creation, 
that there was one Great Spirit, but that he found "re- 
ligion " cost money, and so it was better not to have 
any. He was given a jiound of tea, one of tobacco, his 
passage home in a steamer, and an order for some pro- 
visions on the way. 

We drove into Winnipeg to see some games, and were 
silting on a platform, and rather enjoying ourselves, 
when the most desperate shower came on. Our cover- 
ing was soon soaked through, and we bundled into our 
carriage as (juickly as we could, but not before we were 
very much damaged ; feathers out of curl, dresses dirtied. 
The people were wonderfully good-tempered ; the whole 






i-I 



CH. XVIII 



AUG. 1877 

crowd seemed to b 



ST. BOX /FACE. 

e in a fit of laughter, and it 



ing to see some holding a bit of sail 



349 



was amiis- 



)ver them, soldiers 



^.Uh wheelbarrows on their backs for shelter, and others 
s.tt.ng under the shade of a big drum. One sergeant 
went about i„ the funniest way, holding a bit of wood 
over his head, and pretending he could not see from 
imder it. Hai)pily, we had not to go into town again in 
the evening. Mr. Campbell dined at Winnipeg, and lust 
h.s way on the prairie coming back; he got up to his 
knees in mud, and at last made for a light, and got a 
shake-down for the night in a farmer's cottage 

T/iursJay, j^Z/i.-We started off after breakfast to vi.it 
the Archbishop on the other side of the river at St 
Honiface. He and his clergy received us at the'palace' 
where two addresses were read. Then we saw the' 
church, and went on to a convent. 

The Grey Sisters have about thirty children under 
their care ; in these thirty there are representatives of 
eleven different nationalities. Each child had a little 
flag with " Welcome " written in her own tongue upon 
.t. here were Canadian French. Knglish, Irish, half- 
breeds, and different Indian tribes. 

The weather was really nice, and we sat on the bal- 
cony untd It was time to dress for the ball at Govern- 
ment House. We were asked at nine o'clock and went 
punctually, but •• in honor of us " the other people were 
late, and we stood about for a long time before the 
dancing began. A fine room had been put up for the 
occasion, and everything went off very well 

Ail the ladies were well dressed, and the dancing as 
at Ottawa or London. .Six years ago, at a ball here, 
ladies would have come in moccasins, and danced noth- 
■ng but the Red River jig. This state of society would 



iiave had some charm fo 



rapidly the place grows, and ho 



r lis, but the rhanire sh 



(iws ho 



w 



i 



h I 



fill 



w quickly outside ideas 



350 



A/y CA.y AD/AX JOURXAL. 



CH. xvm 



f4 



make their way in. The jig was danced for us; it is 
exactly the same as an Irish jig. The supper was good 
and the table prettily decorated with flowers The fruit 
had to be imported, as none grows here yet. 'Ihe Ro- 
man Catholic and English bishops both came to the ball 
for a few minutes. 

The drive back was very dark in spite of a fine dis- 
play of lightning on the horizon. The second carriage 
drove up against a post, and broke a spring, and Cap- 
tarn Smith had to jump down every now and then to see 
if we were on the road, and the driver kept " wishing he 
was at home." 

Friday, wt/i.—We held a reception at the City Hall at 
three o'clock. It did not last very long, but as we had 
to attend a concert in the evening we decided to dine at 
the hotel, and not to drive out to Silver Heights. The 
hotel-keeper insisted upon giving us our dinner free. 

Mrs. Littleton and I went over the Fort, and through 
the Hudson Bay Stores. The shop is a very good one 
and I purchased a hat for my rough expeditions, and a 
jacket of white caribou-skin, embroidered in silk by the 
Indians. We also saw the furs. The room full of buffa- 
lo-robes smelt horribly; but I bore it, being determined 
to see all I could. I believe the smell is not altogether 
from the skins, but is mixed with the odor of the Indian 
camp. Another place was full of various skins: wolf, 
grizzly bear, cinnamon bear, foxes of all sorts, etc 

The concert was "classical," and its great merit was 
the shortness of it. 

Nellie spent the afternoon at the Government House 
where there are three children, but she dined with the 
grown-up people, and enjoyed herself very much. 

^^/z-i/zv/m-, /////.—There were races to-dav at Huffalo 
Park, and happily the changeable climate did not spoil 
them. They were held in a large piece of prairie, walled 



CH. XVIII 



AUG. 1877 

in by a stout pal 



LASSO/XG. 



we had a capital stand in 



paling; numbers of people were th 



r seeing evervthi 



35' 
ere, and 



ng. 



I he races we-e the least interest.ng part „f the ner 
hZT' '.r'" ""' ^"' '''"" "vet f„r , , n^^- 
P' 1 ng, and every one went as fast a,, he cnf.l 
»nat we most enioved seeintr u-n = 

wild cow. He rode bea^tifnlT f " ''''"'"«^ ^ 

h^r t, beautifully, and sent the lasso round 

up heL he r; f "■" °" "" '"''■ ""'"" '" «" 
"F- i nen ne let her vn hnf !«<•♦ »i i , 

h«r K J * ' '^" ^'^^ 'asso fastened to 

wfsted'lt . :""' ^° ""'° ^'^^ ^-^ -hich was 

hemlnH ""^ ^"' '^' P^°P'^ ^^^hered in about 

them, and as soon as the cow was loose there was such 
a stampede ! She knocked over two men, but they we 
not hurt, and there waa great laughter ^ 

wildne"' thfs""" "" "" ^'^ '"''' *" ' ''''' "f «emi- 
selves lit H, ""' ""^""' "'^'"' ^" -h-'''^ them- 
le h^v sho^^^^ """' ""^ '-"'-' ^'-^ to be lassoed 

lest they should turn savage. We were surprised to see 
how fast they could run, and how well thev could mn 
or their big heads do not give them a ^rra i Z' 
pearance. ^ a<.iivc ap- 

J-""/V. /^M.-Went to church, and arrived there in 

me to escape a tremendous storm of rain. I neve saw 

suchachntate.. one may be wet through on the fines" 

started, nt'a c Ht^"l,''."'^".'^ '""'^ »h" w. 



ot a cloud in the sk 



nevertheless. I took my waterproof and 



y, and such a hot s 



un 



i , 






umbrella, and 




352 



A/y CAXADIAX JOURNAL. 



CH. XVIII 



sure enough the clouds gathered, and a thunderstorm 
came on with rain ! We were received in an arbor erect- 
ed for the occasion, an address was read, and I fired a 
shot, which was off the target, but which was marked a 
bull's-eye, and then the match began. In two or three 
minutes after we had been baked in the sun, the rain 
came on, and we had to retire into a large shed, where 
we lunched, and D. replied to a speech proposing his 
health, and then, as the rain continued, we drove home. 
In the evening we had a visit from eight or ten In- 
dians, who came to dance and sing before us. Their 
faces were most elaborately painted, and they came up 
the road uttering the most extraordinary cries. The 
men were fine, good-looking, and tall, of the Sioux na- 
tion. They all came over from the States fifteen years 
ago. They had feathers in their hair, and we are told 
that each white feather represents a white man's scalp 
taken by the wearer, and a colored feather stands for an 
Indian's scalp. When they reached our door they sat 
down on the grass and hung their drum upon some 
stakes they brought for the purpose; then half of them 
sat down, and the others danced round, while the sitters 
beat the drum, and the whole company shouted. They 
kept this up for a few minutes, and after a little rest 
began the same thing over and over again. We dis- 
missed them when we had seen enough, but D. promised 
to go to their camp in the morning. 

Tuesday, 14th.— \\q had to leave home immediately 
after breakfast, as His Kx. had to lay the foundation- 
stone of a ladies' college. On our way we stopped at 
the Indian encampment, one large half-covered tent, 
with twenty men and women sleeping in it. The men 
did not seem to have completed their toilet, and were 
still putting on their feathers, and having their hair 
plaited. There were some new devices on their faces. 



CH. xvni 

thunderstorm 
n arbor erect- 
and I fired a 
as marked a 
two or three 
sun, the rain 
: shed, where 
roposing his 
drove home, 
ht or ten In- 
e us. Their 
hey came up 

cries. The 
le Sioux na- 
fifteen years 
we are told 
man's scalp 
tands for an 
)or they sat 

upon some 
lialf of them 
e the sitters 
ited. They 
a little rest 
n. We dis- 
I). promised 

mmediately 

foundation- 
stopped at 

vered tent, 
The men 

t, and were 
their hair 

their faces. 



Al 



■c. 1877 



OA' THE PRA/RfE. 



353 
l!:Zr' ''"" ^""^ ^"^•'^" ^"^ ^'^^^^ --^ then we 

srhZY h'^"^ f ^"''"^'^ ^-^"^ •« building a g.rls' 
school. He .s already the head, and ent, re manage of 
a very successful college for boys, and afteHl e 'ua 
ceremon.es attendant upon laying a stone we dro 
see ,t A very n.ce set of boys received us at the door 
and showed us into the house, which, f,>r this roun " 
;s^^™ash.oned one. It .s on U. ban.lTu:^ 

The Bishop gave us hnich, and then ne returned in 
.he ote, at Winnipeg, where we dress for the ba , :h.e„ 

by the citizens to-night. ^ 

We dined with the Governor, and were escorted to 
he ball by a torchlight procession. The Citv Hall w ! 
beaut.fully decorated, and a large supper!ro:m wa^b 
for the occasion, and made to look like a tent with red 
whue, and blue material. The room and floo \"^;;; 
good, the ladies well dressed inrl fi.« . . '1^'^^^'^ 
successful. ' ^"^ '''^"''^ ''^'"S: most 

on tl!;t^' ^-^"^ "^^-^ '^-' - -^y P'easant day 
on the pra rie We managed to shake off our sleepiness 
after he ball, and to be quite readv for an ea h ' a" 
.an r got into a small phaet<,n, Mrs. ■ : deto .\> ' 
and Alexander into an ambulance wagon, and or th le 
ge-Ulemen mounted their horses, and of^ we w w h 
a tventy-eight-stone-weight gentleman in a bul^v to 
Se Birhop.r'cl"^ "^r^ "'""'^^^^' and^lr'r;.! 

is flal VZT "'' '" •'^ ^""" ^"^ ^-"^ '^"--. -el 

eemed to hn' l''l''^"' '^ ^" '""''"^^y ^^^^ ^^^ h;rses 

^'lu I'T"!"^:? ^^'""^ - through it. It 



peculiar smell, and th< 



fP ic a ApMrvUt^..} 



I; ■• 



•t. and one begins to feel the freedom-ofi^'he 



air upon 



■savage rais- 



I i 



354 



My CANADIAN JOURNAL. CH. xvm 



m 



ing one's spirits. We drove in this way for three hours 
(the servants following), our only adventure being the 
fall of Captain Smith's horse, and his narrow escape of 
being run over by the ambulance. 

Have I told you that we are bound for the Peni- 
tentiary at Rockwood .> The building is erected on " the 
big, stony mountain," which is really only a rise of 
eighty feet above the level of the prairie. It is lime- 
stone rock, and descends quite suddenly on the other 
side— like a precipice— back to the great plain-level. 

When we got within half a mile of the place, we 

were met by some gentlemen, who said they wished us 

to arrive in a vehicle peculiar to the country— namely, a 

Red River cart. These are made entirely of wood, and 

this one was ornamented with boughs, and was drawn 

by eighty oxen ! D. and I, Mrs. Littleton and Nellie, 

got in, and our eighty beasts, each conducted by a man 

with ribbons round his hat, began to move off. It was 

such fun, and looked so very pretty and picturesque. 

Sometimes an ox would become a little troublesome, but 

he was soon brought to order, and I felt like a barbarian 

princess as I drove along in this carriage of primitive 

magnificence. 

We passed through a beautiful triumphal arch, made 
of grain, with a spinning-wheel, plow, and other agri- 
cultural implements on the top of it. D. here got out, 
and answered the address, and then we returned to our 
triumphal car, and drove on, attended by a crowd, to 
the doors of the prison. A very handsome arch had 
been put up about a hundred yards from it, and fifty 
yards nearer to the house was another : these two were 
connected with chains of green rope, hung from poles 
with flags on them, and a new road ran between the two, 
which is the f^rst part of a road to Winnipeg. I was 
asked to open it, and was presented with a spade. I 




CH. xvin 

r three hours 
Lire being the 
row escape of 

for the Peni- 
;cted on "the 
ily a rise of 
-. It is lime- 
on the other 
ain-level. 
he place, we 
ey wished us 
y— namely, a 
of wood, and 
d was drawn 
I and Nellie, 
.ed by a man 
' off. It was 

picturesque, 
blesome, but 
i a barbarian 

of primitive 

1 arch, made 
other agri- 
;re got out, 
jrned to our 
a crowd, to 
ne arch had 
it, and fifty 
!se two were 
from poles 
een the two, 
peg. I was 
a spade. I 



AUG. 1877 ROCK WOOD rEXlIEXTIARY. 

emptied some earth out of a smart httlc barrow .nd 
then we all went in to lunch. "-iriow. and 

Our hostess is a half-breed ladv orettv -..ul 

<>a.sts. In l„s speech 1). „,U1 t|,e„, i|,„t |,e „„,,|, ,,„ 
ferred g„„,g,o jail i„ a car,.., leaving i,i„ „„,"""" 
After this, „c walked „„ the prairie, f, breathe the 
<iehc„„.s a,r and l„..Ked at the snake.h„le, whe" Mrs 
Heds,,n ,,„d „,e. they had kdled ,,.„ snakes in three 
da, s n, the sprtng : „ seen.s .„ be a re„de.v„„s, wh e e 

••Old. He l„„ked at the prisoners' garden but «l„.„ r 
prop™^t„l,,.,k at the prison,. as\.d all'':;.;::;: 

We were dreadfully .sleenv onrs.-Iv.. . 

actinllv in ti.^ s'ce])) oursehes, and were 

actuall) in the enjoyment of " fortv winL-^ " ;., 

:;;:::r^;-;:r^t:-di::f --"-"- 

II ■ * 11c j,uaruians or the nemtpnt nr.r 

had arranged some fireworks, and we sat u, on t " ir ' 
watching them until bedtime ' 

Thurs^iay, i6th.~\, eleven o'clock lr..t night there 
was the most beautiful cloudless, starlit skv, b t w ! 
awoke by a ternfic thunderstorm, peals of thunder 'n' 
flashes of v.v.d lightning. The driver of one of' ou 
-.ons was knocked down by the shock of eta 

rci;:f-:;--— --e.meac;::^ 
^ swollen, but the m^d"^^r too;: ::: :;: 

We breakfasted at eight, and went over the building 

'::r'"u;c;;'^:tr'^"'^^^^"^-^'^'--'^"'- 

fourteen nl' ? " '.. .^"^>' ^■^'^---- ^ ^here are 



'■ells 



teen officials to fourtee 



m 






are not nearly so good as th 



n prisoners. The wome 



n's 



24 



le men's, and I felt the 



356 



MY CAXADIAX JOURXAL. 



.!L« 



CH. XVIII 

more sorry fur this, as the one inmate was a wretched 
lunatic. 

We said good-l)y to Mr. and Mrs. Hedson and drove 

nff over the prairie a«ain. 'I'i,c storm had passed, and 

the day was lovely. About two we reached St. Andrews 

one of the oide.st settlements in the provinee. It is on 

the banks of the Red River, and is verv prett.lv situated 

Ue found an arch, or rather bower, there.' made of 

branches, Hags, and colored cloths ; the platform inside 

It was circular, so all the pet, pie could see us. J), replied 

to the address, and then we shook hands with every 

one, and Nellie and I were presented with bou(]uet's 

in pretty Indian " roggins." A very good lunch, on the 

teetotal principle, was given us, and our healths were 

drunk in water. Two mottoes in the luncheon-room 

were, '^ Kit Atumiskalinanr which means " We welcome 

you," in the C'ree language; the other was— 

Native, or English. Canadian we. 

Teuton, or Celt, or whatever we be, 

We aie all of ns loyal in our welcome to thee. 

The young lady who presented me with the bouquet 
made me a long speech in Cree. trembling violently the 
while, and a girl in the school who read a poem of wel- 
come was almost speechless with fright. Then I gave 
tlie prizes at a ladies' school, and after this we got into 
our carnage again, and drove five miles more along the 
banks of the Red River to the "Little Stone Fort " 
where we slept. A very sad thing happened here last 
Dominion Day (July ,st). Owing to the explosion of 
some gunpowder, five children belonging to the Fort 
were killed, and our hosts, Mr. and .Mrs. Flett. lost two 
so they are very depressed. I hope our visit and tlu' 
conse.pient bustle and change may do the poor woman 
good. 



CH. XVIII 

s a wretched 

>n and drove 
I passed, and 
St. Andrews, 
Lf. It is on 
tily situated, 
'c, made of 
tform inside 
. iK replied 
with every 
til bouquets 
uneh, on the 
lealths were 
K'heon-room 
\e welcome 



to thee. 

lie bouquet 
iolently the 
[)em of wel- 
len I j;ave 
we jrot into 
2 alonjf the 
;one Fort " 
I here last 
<plosion of 
I) the l-'ort 
t, lost two, 
it and the 
Dor woman 



AUG. 1877 



l/rrLl- STOXE FORT. 



rhis is one of the Huds..irs I 



357 



a fortified place. We all 



!ay stores, and is (luite 



have had anoth 



enjoy the air s 



th 



1.S out on the balcoii 



er very pleasant da v. I hav 



'<» niuch. ami 



pared. We ha 

are not such a 



y, while 



e written 



ve ()ur own took and pro\ 



our rooms are beinjr pre- 



dra 



winfr, Nellie dim! 



n invasive armv a^ 



everything, the otl 



"iig uj) evervwhere t 



isions, so we 
We appear. I), is 



It 



aft 



IS a v 



liers walking about .se 



ery restful evening after 



" lodk into 
I'ii'K the sights. 



J'^rUay, i?th.— 



\\ 



our journev 



er breakfast, and started 



e Kot into our 



w 



a'-'tns directly 



beautiful 



weather. 



on our way, I icing in th 



Wh 



SI 



en we had gone al 



gns of festivity : (I 



■lout five miles 



Indian warriors dancing in t 



iik^s Hying, and 



we came to 



sounds of music. 



ing their own e.xtraordinarv si 



"ic to the band, and ut 



look 



m«: creatures; most of tl 



•""ts. 'I'heywereci 



ter- 



irioiis- 



so covered with paint that thev look 



i^n legs were naked, though 



had h 



is legs of a dull white col 



ed clothed. One 



spread over them. Another had black 
•'pper man was variouslv dressed • eith 
or colored pieces of .joth. „r shawls 
lieads had feathers stuck al)out them 
were elaborately painted. 'II 



or. with large black bandj 



stri 



pe: 



The 



er a cottnn shirt 



tion I saw was a large gre 
i"» up a man's cheek, and 1 
chief 
iett 



ere worn ; the 

and the faces 

'e most striking decora- 

en caterpillar, painted crawl- 



los 



er. 



were the coat which I described 



'11R itself in his eye. 'Jht 



and which he had then lent 



to you in a former 



when he sent him to ask 



to one of his follow 



band of breth 



lis to come and .see I 



ers 



and 
dian 



ren are pagans (from 
are not very go„(| friends with the (I 



s we are on our way to 
Fr(iim th 



him. This 

economical motives), 

iristian In- 



see. 



We went wl 



e place wiiere we met this sfi 
wly, foll(,wed by tl 



town of Selkirk, to the pi 



ange assembly 
ie crowd, through the 
ace where another large arch 



35« 



MV CA A' AD/AX JOURXAL 



CM. xvm 



surmounted l)y railway impIenuMUs, was erected; for 
this is the sjjot where the ;,^reat I'acillc Railway is to 
cross the \Ki:K\ River; then we ^ot on to a |)latform, 
and had an address, anti looked at all these Indians! 
and went thrcnij^rh the regular business of presenta- 
tions, etc. 

We next drove on towards the Indian Reserve, and 
at its entrance were saluted !)y a lar^e deputation, who 
came to welcome us there, (^ne was a splendid man 
with a larj>e necklace of feathers, bare lejrs, and squares 
of beaded cloth gracefully coverinjr the rest of his body. 
He had in his hand a standard, like a ^i^autic hand- 
screen ; it was a lonjj pole with a stiH fringe of feathers 
the whole way down it, and red cluth .settin;,' it off as a 
trimminjr. 

We stopped for lunch soon after this, and spent a 
couple of hours very pleasantly sittinjr about on the 
Urass, before we walked on to the j,nand " I'ow-wow " 
place. The chief is called i)y the unromantic name of 
" Henry Trince," and is a ;rentleman in a fine red coat, 
and with two enormous medals on his breast. He re- 
ceived us in an ar!)or platform, and ^ave I), a very pretty 
a(hlress, which he answered, each of his sentences beinj; 
translated. This over, the chief asked to speak, and 
then he made a lonj,' oration, tellinjir all his j-rievanccs. 
I), told him to write them down, and send them to him 
on paper. We went into the school, and heard a hymn 
sunjr and saw a canoe-race. We walked all round the 
camp, to visit the women and children. 'I'he little 
babies have their h'jrs pai ked in dry moss, and are then 
tied u|) ii,i,dit in a sort of l)ack-board. I). h„l two ^^uns 
and two watches to present to chiefs, and on his own 
l)chalf he ^'ave four bullocks for a feast, so we left them 
all in «;oo(l spirits, while we had a pleasant thive back, 
geltiiiff to Stone i'uik at si.x uVlock. 



CM. xvni 

LTorted ; for 
.ailway is to 
a platform, 
fsc Indians, 
if prcscnta- 

Icscrvc, and 
itation, who 
iliMidid man 
and sc|iiaros 
of liis body. 
;antic liand- 
of feathers 
it off as a 



Al-G. 1S77 



CAMPIXG OUT. 



359 



Saturday, /.W/.— We |,ad a I 



Stone l''ort 



on;,' drive li 



• >nit' Iroin 



noon. 



and ^r,,t to bilvcr Hcijihts in the aft 



cr- 



at W 



Stin,/ay, /<^///.— Ihe iJishopof R 



iipcrt's Land preached 



iiinipe^:. and came l)ack to hnu h with us. 
AfonJay, .'o///.— Another expedition ! The first tl 



we heard thi 



;' mornm;r was tlie soiuul of rai 



imj; 



^•e «<>t lip the day looked most uni 



n, am 



1 wl 



KM 



we started about ten, the f( 



Littleton and h 



drawn !)y four horse> 



\V 



iromismj; ; however, 

)ur gentlemen riilin;,', Mrs. 

le ambulance 



er maid. Nellie and I in tl 



three hours, wl 



e Kot on very well for the first 



Our hor 
wheels of ou 



UMi we came to some fearful 



swamps. 



ses i)lunKa'd throui,di water and mud. the 



r carria^re sinkin;(. first on ( 



)iie side and 



then on the other; two or three times the horses in the 



carts sat d( 



wn in despair, and once th 



ev s 



unk 



so deep m 



the mire that the whole caravan had to'stop and help to 



pull them out. 'I'he rain came 



was thunder jjrowlinjr overhead. .Mtojjether it 
a nice day for campin;j: out. W 



destination at t 



on in torrents, and there 

was rot 

e ex|)ecteil to reach our 



adventures in the I 



wo. and to lunch there, but owinj; t 



o our 



oJk's we did not jfet there till ( 



we were all wet and famished. The I 



or had arrived bef 



ive, and 
ieiitenant-(iovern- 



tea, which revived us; then tl 



ore, and he j^Mve us shelter and some 



ic rain cleared o 



made up a nic e fire, and thinjjs be^an to look 1 



Our cook had been in th 



II, we 
letter. 



had been over his knees in water 



e mctst unfortunate cart, and 



the moment ii 



most of the (lav. but 



e arrived he lit his lire, and mad 



e us a ihn- 



ner of good soup, mutton chops, and potatoes. It was 
next discovered that three tents had been left behind— 



three out of six ; however 



out them. 1)., Nellv, and I had 



we mana^'ed very well with- 



.1 I. 



«! another (our maiil-. t 



one tent, .Mrs. F.ittleton 



turns— mine came last time), and the th 



ake the expeditions in 
rcc yt-'utlcnitu 



36o 



Ml 



MV CAKADIAX JOUKXAL, 



cii. xviri 



tl 



•t-' third. We had strctdier-bed 



and blankets on th 



S with Iniffalo-rob 



cm, and dry hay on ihc W 



-re really very ..n,rortab,e^,^r :;;;,;;: :,^ 
ear water, half river, half swan,,, and as tx ca I 
-'- . water, and nnlk, we shall return here for "the 
nijrlit on (Hir wav baek I r.ti, ,- i . • '"'"^"^'^ 
>lH.seb.,,.sa«.in I ' '''""' •■'"""•' """"«'' 

■/>'«./,,,, ^/./.-We were a»„kc. rath.r t-arlv l,v the 

stvu,, In , as 1 an, vc-ry much afraid „f htr hein,, uvt-r- 
re I .,„ ,h,s cxp.,li.i„„. I have. .sist „„„„ this T ,e 

: ::;:,;:"",:"""-"'^- "■■' ^""- '•"■' "- -' '.^ 

settkmun l„ur „f ihcsu men met us „„ h.,rsebaek 
some way fr„„, their farn.s, a.„l r,„ie l,ef„re „s thr.Z,' 
e,r Reserve. \„„ km.w that the Me„„„„i.es have ef 
nss.a „r c„„se,ent,„„s reascns, i„ the same ,va ■ tha 
Mey e ■ the.r native h.n.l, ,.„n,any, an.l settle, 
K"ss,a, heeanse they will n,„ liKhe, and these ,w„ e„u„- 
. - re„„,re that their snhjeets sh,„„d serve in the army 
I he Menn„n,tes are m„st desirahle i,nn,i„ranls ■ ihev re 
am . e,r he,. „erma„ eharaeterist.es, art hard-w rki, ;" 
" .est, ,„l,er, s.n.ple, hardy people : they hrin„ ,„,.„ev in-' 

'" "•;■ '■ "■■>■• ""'I «" ««tle in a w.o.lless plaee w h i, 

,"""";" "'■"•■'^' »■ '■ N--si,y (in Knssia h 't ^ 

hem t„ make a peeuliar fnel-cakes „f ma , are miL 

w,t straw which is kept a whole year to drv 
"Kl.'.v. and which looks exactly like t„rf; wi 1, i^ 

•hey «e, thro„,h the Ion,- Cana.lia,, winter with 

are"; ,;;; ''";•■■ """' "■""'"»•' ""• '■"•"-,. .] 

are I.ntheran, ,„ which for,,, „( religion thev add the 
ynakcr,' non-figh.ing doctrine. They dre« in the la 



cii. xviri 

l)iiffal()-rol)cs 
lioor, so we 

nj,' ^aoiiiui is 
we can get 

'■ fi»r aiiotlicr 

'in;,r tlir()uj,rli 

early by the 
p, c'oiivcrsa- 
I some (iiffi. 
:I<>.\ hour of 
bt'injr over- 
'1 this. 'I'he 
It the wiiul 
cverythinjr 
Mciinonite 
li'Tseback, 
lis throujri, 
.*s have left 
e way that 
settled in 
■ two coiin- 
1 the army. 
s; Ihcy re- 
il-workinjr^ 
money in- 
ace, which 
lias taiijfht 
ire, mixed 
dry thor- 
with this 
r without 
man, and 
' add the 
tile plain- 



Kvr. 



1877 



MEXXOX/TE SE TTI.EMEXT. 



361 



est and least decorative fash 



l)irth to their ;,^raves, t 
■fs fi, 



"»ii ; the women, from th 



If lip their heads i 



eir 

n colored hand- 



1- -■•-■■ ..v.iw.-i III 1 uioreo nand- 
^erduefs fastened under their chms, an<l wear dark-rol- 
ored stuU ^^owns, the baby's bein^^ made after the same 
fashion as .ts mother's. The men shave, and wear black 
stocks round their thn.ats. Partly in consequence of 
this unbecomms costume, all the ,,eoi)le, men and wom- 
tMi, are plain. One hundred and twentv families arrived 
in Canada three years a^n, and set'tled on this bare 
pra.r.e one autumn .lay. Kor a week they had not a 
roof to cover them, and slept un.ier their carts; then 
they dujr up the sods, and with them made rude huts in 
which they lived through one of our lon« and severe 
w.ntcrs. Ihis i.s, therefore, their third vear here-and 
now I will tell you how we find them situated 

Ue drove about five miles through their Reserve. 

■ch IS ei,d,teen miles square, and in so doinj, passed 

rcn.,h five or six villages of farmhouses; thev are not 

n strcet.s, each house beinjf surrounded bv land The 

verv'HuT.'""r''. "'''' ""'">' '^""t/ ^""f^^^ with 

ic hay thatch, the walls wooden, but covered 

"■th plaster. Next to and openin^^ into the livinj;- 

'•""se IS a large building in which the cattle spend tlu. 
winter. ' 

Kverything looks very neat; home-made w<,oden 

l-^;-. 'lowers in the windows, nice gardens, etc 

J''|'<h family ,s given ,60 acres of land, and the wav in 

^^- •'>•'• they work their farms enables them to do so very 

advantageously. ^ 

Supposing there are twenty families in a village, they 
P"t an the land togetlK^r. aiul nKirk otit the chfferenl 
spots w.ch are best suited to particular crops; thus, all 

':'r*:r"'i^:'"r^'''''''-'-^^'''-i"am.ther. 



and so on. Each man. how 
of each crop, and has h 



ever, worK 



s his own sha 



re 



IS proht to hi 



inself. Their 



'(i 




362 



My CAXAD/AX JOCRXAL. 



CM. XVIII 



cfuirch is most simi)le— pi 



and 



"') ornament anywhert 



pie— plain deal f„r 



Ills witlifMit |)ack> 



After drivinj^r tli 



a^Lfes, and passiii;;r th 



rou^rh these prosperoiis-Iook 



fore 

of it at 1 

witli 



lis on tlic open pra 



rolled) great 



corn-fields, w 



w\<^ vil- 



t' saw he- 



•ist 700 people, 'rii 



TIC an arbor erected and in f 



'Peciniens of iluir U 



c men stood ( 



«:rown from R 

•Jh 

lice. 



II ss 



irm produce liefore the 



ront 



'II one side 



f women on the oth 



"an seed, from Canad 



111, corn 



lit' l)al)ie! 



cr side showed th 



III seed. Ila.v, etc 



and 



arbor were three girls, with 



cliildren were out t 



•ir garden prod- 



00. 



ht 



offer ns 



ads, and trays with gla 



e handkerchief 



In tl 



s(Jme Russian t 



sses in their hands, read 



le 
s on their 



cr our cold drive. The arl 



aft 



»itli garlands of || 
with 



ea, w 



hid 



V to 



li was most refresh 



WYJ 



)or was very |)rettily hung 



owers and bunches of 



I'"PP'es, and there were tables all 



corn mi.xed 



tie Cliristmas-tree 



round it, and lit- 



(»erm 



:»n lines of wel 



">' wliich hung bouquets with 



ni 



ost charm 



come wrapped round 



some 



nil 



y done. Afr. MesiH-l 



each, thewhoh 



iigent, who arranged the whole of th 



pcler, the Me 



niionite 



with 



lis, and acted 



IS interpreter. The ,M 



IS immigration, was 



most learned man read, and Mr. H 



ennonitej 



very nice address, and I), replied 



espeler translated, a 



«litcd them greatly. Th 



III a speech which d( 



anything pleased th 



cy never cheered, but wh 



sion to their 



em they lifted th 



en 



eir caps. In a! 



peculiar tenets he said : " Vou h 



to a land where' you will fmd th 



are to associat 



and conten 



c engageil indeed i 



jieople with who 



;ive come 



li'iik' with foes whom it 
ergies to encounter. Hut those f( 



n a 



m yon 



ffreat struggle, 



requires their best 



iiman blood 



men, nor will you be called 
your hands with h 
your religious feelin 
you as recruits and 
tlie brute-forces of 1 



en- 
ow- 



k's. 



'he 



)es are not vour fell 

pon in the struggle to stain 

-—a task so abhorrent to 

war to which we invite 

IS a war w.iged against 



comrades 



lature: but tho.se fo 



rcea wiii wel- 



CH. XVtH 

ivitlif.iit backs, 

iis-Iookiiijr vil- 
(Is, we saw bv- 
-d and in front 
'd on one siile 
>rc them, corn 
seed, flax, etc. 
garden prod- 
too. In the 
hiefs on their 
nds, ready to 
'St refreshing 
I'rettiiy hung 
L'orn nii.xed 
Hi it, and Jit- 
:ts witli some 
ch, the whole 
e Mennonite 
gration, was 
Mennonites' 
translated, a 
fi which (le- 
1. but when 
's. In aliu- 
have come 
1 whom yf)ii 
It strugj^rie, 
it'ir best en- 
■oiir feilow- 
glo to stain 
)h()rrent to 
we invite 
fed against 
s will wei- 



Al'c; 



1877 



/■//A ■^/f:.vxo.v/r£s. 



363 



—for we inte.ul , '""l^"^'"- 't is a war <.f ambition 

he ocvi 1 "' ^'' '""^'^'■'^' ^^^-^''^ ^'thwart 

ineoctan; the rollnu'- nrairic will hi,.- 

e tr"d In one word, beneath the lla-^ whose 

lokJs now wave ituiv,. ,. ■,, "^ "iiosc 

^^'-' ^^■''"^'^''' '■"""d, and muttered a few !-,m,. c 
senten<t's -ii,,) ... ''""^ <'ermaii 

e.temxs. and „c.ro as s,,„cl,lcssly pohlc as « n,„l.l 

liiiliU 

m^K It .as very pleasant sitting by the lire and see- 
■ng the people enjoyn,,. their coffee on the grass A f ' 
- •>"- and a half spent here we walked o .;.,,; ,'" 
'iuarter of a mile o,r. Son.e won,en showe [i^L^ 

--ntly we saw hreworks rising from the other .amp 

'tsp ndej to by a distant cheer, and one line of "He is 
a jolly good fellow." ''"- '^ 

nonitts ,s hat the «:reat |)roportion of those here -ire 

">""^ Hhat a «:ain they are to this country in threr- 
.ears o have eighteen .sc,„are miles of ^ " "" 

t'V such peo|)le ! 



ot country settled 



364 



MY CAXADIAX JOIRXAL. 



h!f i - 



CH. xvm 

IVednesday, 22./.~Our camp is o„ ^uud ^unmd, and 
we all slept very ccmfortahly. and Inn.^er than we did 
tie first n,«ht. We were packed np about ten. and set 
off t„ dru-e through some more villaj,a's. Mr. Hespeler 
took us mto one house, and showed us the domestic ar- 
ran,.enu-nts. The only fault to find with these is that 
the stables open mto the living-rooms. The inhabitants 
will gradually leave off this nasty plan, but it is their de- 
votion to their cattle which makes them wish to have 
them so near. The village herd and the village school- 
master are the only two paid laborers in the Mennonite 
vmeyard : the clergyman receives no pay. School is not 
kept during the three summer months. 

We reached our new camping-ground early in the 
day. and the gentlemen went ouf shooting; thev got a 
'"■xed but not a good bag-prairie chicken, snipe, plo- 
ver duck, and a bittern, the latter quite delicious to eat 
n he evening we sat over our camp-fire, and Mr. McKay 
to d us some very .nteresting stones of his life. I must 
•ntroduce h,m to you, for he is (to use a very Yankee 
expression) the '' boss " of our party. He arranges ever ! 
tlnng for us, provides the horses, carriages, te' ts, bed^. 

The Hon. James McKay, M. P. (in the local Parlia- 
mc.t), has been a mighty hunter in his day, but as he 
"ow weighs 330 lbs., he leads a quieter though still a 
very active life He has a pleasant face, and is y rv 
cheery, and a thorough " good fellow," but so enormous r 
IMS curious to see him filling up his buggy, and driving 
on before us, steering us through the bogs, and making 
s>gns to our driver to avoid danger on the way His 
boy o eleven rides on a pony with him. and promises to 
De as large. I never saw such a fat boy 

Fr.f ;■ n'^,'-' ". ' ''-'"^■'^'■^^d. His parents had some 
French blood mt hom, ,-,nd he speaks the three languages, 



en. xvm 

d ground, and 
r than we did 
It ten, and set 
Mr. He.speler 
e domestic ar- 
I these is that 
he inliabitants 
t it is their de- 
wish to have 
•illage school- 
he Mennonite 
School is not 

early in the 
; they got a 
:n, snipe, plo- 
licious to eat. 
d Mr. McKay 
life. I must 
very Yankee 
'anges every- 
, tents, beds, 

local Parlia- 
y, but as he 
ough still a 
and is very 
J enormous ! 
and driving 
and making 
■ way. His 
promises to 



AUG. 1S77 

but 1 |)el 
one thumb, 
several other verv 
he and 
there 



WIXXIPEG. 



it-'ve he talks Jnd 



3^5 



and besides th 



ian at home. He has I 



ost 



's gunshot wound he has had 



"arrow escapes of his life. ( )ne d 



an Knjriish gentleman killed 
wasaba^r. Mr. McKav .shot f 



man three; but what 



feat is that h 



our, 
seems to me th 



with a las.so. Hl- 



e once killed 



bea 



had 



a mother and tw 



seven grizzly bears : 
and the English- 
e most wonderful 



r came towards hi 



"<-> giin with him 



lasso over her head, and t 



ni on her hind paws; he tl 



) young cubs 
md the great 



pulled her o 



he killed the cubs 



ver on her back 



rninghishor.se quickly aw 



an 



d St 



irew the 



'''y. 



H 



too. 



rangled her ; then 



e said he thought nothing of 



black bear with a I 



g of It, as he had killed 



;isso when he was fourt 



thi 



Jemmie" (his fat boy) ,s al 



een years old. 



igs off the ground when h 



ways i)racticing pjckin 



le IS on horseback, with 



g 



„■ . t ■■---.. ..V i.T \n\ iiorseoack with -» 

ew to future e.xcellence with the lasso. Mr \ cK.v 
l^nows a great deal about the Indian.s, and it wa ve' v 
■"terestmg to hear him talk of them ^ 

Thursday, 2j./.-.\v, u.d about twentv-flve miles to 
<ir.ve home, and as we got a good deal shaken we uere 
very t.red at night and ready to go verv t'rWu\^ 

after reaching Silver HeiLrhts Tl ' """^ 

1, , ^ ^"^er ntignts. i he vounger La'ntlemfn 

however, having gone to Mr Xfrk'-.v-c , >>'''"'emcn, 

selves by trying to learn the Keel River jig. 



s had some 
■ languages, 




CHAPTER XIX. 

MANITOliA. 

Saturday, Au^^^ust 2s//,.-Urs. Morris and her daughters 
Umched with us, and we had a visit from an American 
1 rofessor who has come here to study the manners and 
customs of the "hopper." As I have not a jjreat deal 
of personal interest to tell you about to-dav, I will try 
to mstruct you in Manitoban zoology and ^^Uomology 
^ou have of course heard of the grasshopper plague 
which devastates this country year after vear The 
creature is s.m])ly a hideous grasshopper, but he comes 
<n such extraordinary numbers that he literally clears 
all before him-crops of all sorts, bark of young trees 
leaves, buds, flowers, window-curtains, ladies' dresses' 
Nothnig escapes his great appetite and ostrich-like pow- 
ers of digestion. He flies into your face, he climbs up 
your garments, he sits upon your food, he ''.-ts you walk 
i>P«>n h.m. drive over him, slay him by thousands, but 
st.l he forms a th.ck covering over your palings, and 
darkens the air with his devouring presence. He has 
hut one merit-no, two : he does not bite you, and (if 
you can make up your mind to eat him) the Professor 
declares he is good to eat. 

The creature is supposed to he brought here by one 
"prevailing" wind and taken away bv another For 
two years (after fourteen of annual visitation) the peo- 
ple here have had a rest from him. and the crops are 
iiourishing. 




her daujfhters 
an American 
manners and 
a jrreat deal 
ay, I will try 
entomology. 
op])er plague 
year. The 
lilt he comes 
terally clears 
young trees, 
lies' dresses, 
ich-like pow- 
le climbs up 
;ts you walk 
ousands, but 
palings, and 
ce. He has 
you, and (if 
lie Professor 

here by one 
other. For 
m) the peo- 
le crops are 



AUG. 1877 
The 



/XSECT LIFE, 



1(^7 



common fly is a great nuisance too. We call 
h.m the "house- fly. but he also swarms on the prairie 
He wakes us m the morning, assists at our breakfast 
worries us while we write, and makes himself thoroughly 
objectionable, as a fly well knows how to do. 

In speaking of the mosquito I must change mv l)ro- 
noun, for the Professor declares that it is only the fair 
ladies who bite. She is a real plague in this a.untrv, In.t 
we are fortunate enough to have escaped her ainu,;;t en- 
tirely. An Englishman came out last year for pleasure 
but after three days' journey into the land he turned 
back, finding only pain, and literally defeated by the 
attacks of the mosquitoes. 1 am told that thev often 
kill animals by choking them, and that when so' killed 
a great ball of mosquitoes will be taken out of J 
cow's throat. This may be too interesting a fact for 
you to digest: stay-at-home people are so incredu- 
lous. 

Cows and horses have even a more fearful enemy in 
what IS called here the -bulldog." but what we rail 'the 
"horse-fly." They really do kill h<,rses by the irritation 
they cause. Mr. McKay told us that bv scrapng his 
hand along the back of his horse he has' taken off one 
hundred and seventy-three at once (d(,n't smile !) ; and he 
described to us the mane of a horse standing on end 
with the crowds of flies in the hair, one on the top of the 
other all struggling for blood. These nasty things come 
nuo the houses too, later in the year. I am very happy 
to add that the Professor says that blood is inju'rious to 
all these creatures, and that they are punished when they 
give way to their unhealthy appetites. 

There are no rats and no earthworms in Manitoba 
but there are squirrels which come into the houses and 
I am told that mice are plentiful, and are particularly 
tond of making a nest in one's best gown. 



;! 



'I: 




^/y C. t \ADIAN JOURXAL. 



CH. XIX 



of burden, and one 



Oxen are much used as bea 
i>t<i» ik /<*w mules. 

Mouuuy ^7//._The gentlemen went out shooting for 
the whole day, and came back well pleased, though !hey 
were unable to f.nd half the b.rds they shot! It c' me on 
to^pour .n the evening, and they lost one good hou^" 

^Ve ladies lunched with the Morrises, and met Mr 
Macpherson and Mr. Campbell, who hav; come all he 
way here by water (three weeks in canoes); we are go 
.ng .ner part of the same route, so they were able to 
g.ve .. ,ome hints. Mr. Macpherson d.d not i e t 
nd ree weeks of pork and canoe-made bread made 
h.m ,11. I hey fortunately had lime-juice with them 

Tuesday, 2St/,.~\\^ drove through rather a pleasant 
country, a wooded prairie, making tur way tot r 1 
nmpeg R.ver, and did twenty-nine miles in the dav 
Our camp.ng ground is on the banks of a winding stream 
and we were ju.st settling down when we heard that one 
o he horses had fallen into the river. We went to look 
a the poor brute, floundering up to his neck in nu.d 
he was getting very much exhausted, and we were al 

vt th t T '" ^'' '"""^ ""^- ^•'""^'^- "-f-tune 

was th t a cart, conta.n.ng the men's food and bedding, 
bro., down on the way, and did not arrive till very late 
and a th.rd that my maid is ill. .She has been so'fo a' 



rr, 20/t.—A\e\am\ 



nks everything verv horrid 



er is still very ill, and 



ps nasty; she touch 



camp-beds too 



r fit 



ger.s, and makes a fa 



es everything with the 



e rrally is ill, 
'- i>.ie i, ,vell. 



ce over everything 



and I hope she will like 



this 



'■■ CH. XIX 

urden, and one 

)iit shooting for 
2d, though they 
ot. It came on 
le good hour's 

, and met Mr. 
2 come all the 
; we are go- 
' were able to 
d not like it, 
e bread made 
with them, 
ler a pleasant 
y towards the 
:s in the day. 
inding stream, 
leard that one 
; went to look 
leck in niud ; 
we were al- 
ave him, but 
?r misfortune 
and bedding, 
till very late; 
een so for a 
e has a fear- 

ery ill, and 
mp-beds too 
ing with the 
r everything 
will like this 



AUG. 1877 



Sr. AXDKEll'S. 



369 



^^e expected to go through a number of swamps but 
the weather has been so dry that happilv there were 
none to speak of. We had n<,t gone nio're than two 
ni.les when a whole cavalcade of horsemen met us 
1 hey wore red sa:shes across their shoulders, and rode 
on Indian saddles, much embroidered with beads There 
was one l.ttie boy on an enormous horse, which nearly 
puhcd Imn off when it attempted to eat, which it d,d 
often. I he horses are not trained much, and have very 
hard mouths. These riders were French half-breeds, 
and looked very Indian. They rode beautifullv. and 
galloped by us for over two miles, firing a/.v/-./.-^ 
every few mmutes. When we got near to St. .Andrews 
we found that the people had made an .mpromptu avenue 
of trees fully a mile long, and at the end of .t an arch 
decorated with arms and welcomes. This settlement 
looks very flourishing and well cultivated. The people 
read a French address, and D. replied in the some lan- 
guage. Then an English one was read, and answered 
After this we went on. accompanied for some way bv 
our cavaliers, and after they left us we halted and had 
lunch. 

About five o'clock we reached our camping-ground 
having driven thirty miles, and having had one little in- 
terval of prairie-shooting on the wav. When the horses 
were unharnessed we all set to work: the gentlemen 
pitched the tents, -..-e picked up sticks, and made two 
f^re-. and then I made four beds, and plucked a duck 
for dinner ! This meal was highly appreciated bv us all, 
and we sat round the fire and listened to some' of Mr. 
McKay's stories. The gentlemen were made verv angry 
by hearing that at seven in the morning a bear was seen 
quite close to our camp! The men thought of telling 
them, but did not, and it was so close thev could easily 



ave got It. Was not !hat 



provoking 



•'^^rx^M.- 



370 



A/y CAXADIAX JOL-RXAI.. 



en. xix 



Th 



e prairie-fowl shooting is very odd. The bird 



s re- 



e sportsman, and 



main in the j^rass (|uitc ch)se to tli 
stare at him till he makes them get up. and then .some- 
times they flo]) down again before any one can shoot. 
Vesterdav, th 



ruthlessly shot down sat 



e mother of the brood which had 1 



)een 



look 



calling for her young, and 



ing about (]uite close to us. 



ThursJay, j(V//.— Traveling on the Da 



A hot day, and the road dusty and e.vtreniely rougl 



wson route. 



\\i 



were very tired by two o'clock, when 



e stopped at a 



sort of half-way house to rest and have lunch. Th 
orwegian, with live children— four most 

)y, seven days 



hostess wa 



a N 



ch 



irming, pretty little girls, the fifth, a bal 



'Id ! She, poor 



woman. 



for us, and to make Hags Sh 



got uj) to decorate her 



e seemed s 



uch 



room 

person, and she wept bitterly when we left. Df 

she was very weak, and she I 

and was glad to see so 



;i nice 
course 



are not good, as her husband is del 
seem to get on. They are just 



Pern I 



)nia Mountains, where thev h 



ives in a very lonely place. 

me one to speak to ; her i)ros|iects 

elicate, and does not 

going to move to the 



of 160 acre 
farm 



s. Neither h 



ive taken iiji a far 



m 



f nor she knows anything of 



iMJJ, and when they reach the place thev will h 



to build a house. 
Fred 



W 



ave 



erica. The other child 



e named the Norwegian !)abv 



yard, with .1 piece of stone f 



ren had made a t 



rain in the 



and boxes for carri 
for tickets, which 
which everybodv. ent 



or an engine, snow-shoes 



lages, etc. When I). 



saw it he asked 



one child instantly produced, and 



erin 



bought. 



lu-y immediatelv took th 



g into the spirit of the g 



ime, 



money to their 



mother, and we were able to please them with 



little ncckl 
is the father 



■t's we had for the Iiidi 



some 



:iiis. Johann Nord 



s name. 



Duri 



"C the afternoon-half of 



through a h-j, f,j.g^ {jyj ^_j -j 



our journey we passed 



osc enough to the actual 



CH. XIX 

Tlie birds re- 
sportsman, and 
nd tlicn sonic- 
onc tan shoot, 
hich liad been 
cr young, and 

Dawson route. 
L'ly rough We 
; stopped at a 
i lunch. The 
en — four most 
l)y, seven days 
decorate lier 
ed such a nice 
t. ()( course 
■ lonely i)lace. 
lier prospects 
and does not 
move to the 
I'M up a farm 
■i anything of 
hey will have 
wegian baby 
;i train in the 
', snow-shoes 
V it lie asked 
■oduced. and 
of the game, 
iney to their 
n with some 
fohann Nord 

?y wr passed 
to the actual 



AUc;. 1877 



// ••COA'DfA'oy KOAD. 



bla/e to be very mud 



1 annoved by tlu 



not get to our camping-ground t 
some new e.\i)eriences, for th 



■^niokt 



W 



371 



e (11(1 



'II SIX, and then we had 
ere was no water and no 



food for the horses. We had to dig for the f 
Mr. McKay tried to tak 



ormer. 



and 



bett 



e his horses somewhere for 



cr grass, i)ut they would not leave tl 



they hoped to find co 



le c.irts, where 



ni. 



'Jhi 



scenery at ail. 



s part of the country i 



s wooded, and there is 



no 



U 



e are in Keewatin now. 



council, and has not a I.ieut 

though .Mr. .Morris is what is called the ".Ad 



't is governed by a 



enanttiove 



riior o 



f it 



s own, 



/'■//,/, 



'.', J"/>A— JJefore luncl 



ministrator. 



miles, and as tht 



1 we did about 



seventeen 



rest m the middle of the d 



i: road was rough we were glad of thi 



IV. 



Wl 



len we started 



wc were told that we had only nine miles to 
tliought we should baye such an easy afteri 



ag.iin, 
go, and 



proved a very hard 



•lie. We had lly 



and a road made with rough-li 
When first made this sort of •>-■—■ 



ernoon. 
f 



It 



e miles of swamp 



cwn trunks of t 



rees. 



agreeable, but when time ha 



Ring of the ambulanc 
scribed I 



perpetual bridge is not dis- 
s Worn furrows in it the jog- 



w, 



igon upon It is not to be di 



W 



luMi we had lieen knocked about 



coult! bear we got out and walked 
i>ut almost our whole journey w 
and as we had to go at a fiiotV 
tiguing. 



as much as we 
a coujile of miles; 
IS over corduroy road 



pace. It was very fa- 



din 



As you may guess, a "cordur 



gnagian imitation of the material 



oy" road is a Hrob- 



tlc boys, and wh 



foni by rough lit- 



away altogether, wh 



en an occasional "cor<r' has bn.k 



en another has got I 
as the horse jnits his foot on it 



round 



"pon end as the wheel louci 



en 

oose, and turns 

or when it stands 



not pleasant to driv 

25 



H-s it, the cor(biroy road is 
f many miles over ! In consecpience 



•* 




372 



A/y C.IXAD/AN JOCA'AAL. 






C». XX 

of ..iir sl„w pr„j;rcss. it was ,,uite dark when we reached 
our cami..ii^-gr„u.ul, and the couk did nut arrive till 
half-past seven. 

.Vr/////</,/)., S,f(nn/,rr ist. 'I^en or twelve miles of roiKdi 
road brought us to the North-West Anule, where we 
fmnul a beautifully decorated steamer on the Lake of 
the Woods. 

There were a few Indians about: one who is alwavs 
called "Colonel Wolseley." because he was guide to Sir 
(.arnet, on the Red River Ivxpedition. 

We had KH.t up at si.x in order to do o„r steamer vr.v- 
agebydayh^du; but our horses wandered away in the 
niKht, and it took some time t<. catch them, so that it 
was one o'clock before we ha.l done the twelve miles 
and packed our thing's into the Ix.at. We had to part 
with Mr. McKay here, and to put ourselves into the 
hands of twenty-si.x canoe-men. Thev all came on board 
at the North-West Angle, whic h is a morsel of the United 
States mixed up with our land. 

We had such a pleasant afternoon in the steamer 
The Lake of the W..ods, about whi(h we had heard 
nothing, proved to be quite lovely ; islands innumerable, 
rocky and wooded, a great variety of shapes and sizes." 
sometimes far away, and sometmies so dose to thj 
steamer as (piite to darken it. We lunched and dined 
on board, and did not land until it was dark, and the 
setting-up of our camp was most dimcult. We could 
only get three tents up. and I had to be one of four in 
mine, so we were rather crowded. 

I found that we were close to the house of one of our 
Ottawa brides, who has come out here with her husband. 
She was a Miss Ashworth, and he a Mr. Lellf)wes. We 
went up to see her. and found her very happy nnd clieer- 
ful. She has one neighbor nine miles away, and a second 
eighteen niiies off. 



CII. xx 

hen wc reached 
nut arrive till 

' miles of rouj^h 
!«;'(-', where we 
'n tlie I.ake of 

who is always 
is guide to Sir 

r steamer voy- 
d away in the 
leni, so that it 
'- twelve miles, 
\'e had to part 
•Ives into the 
anie on board 
1 of the United 

the steamer, 
ke had heard 

inniiinerai)le, 
les and sizes, 

close to the 
led and dined 
lark, and the 
L We could 
me of four in 

of one of our 
her luisband. 
i-llowes, We 
)y nnd checr- 
;ind a second 



SEPT. 1877 



T/IE U'/xxz/v-o- A'/r/-/?. 



573 



Sufi,/ay, 2,/.—\\c had such a pleasant day after once 
we had got into our canoes and were well started, rhe 
weather was lovely, and the River Winnipeg beautiful 
We have two large and two small canoes. 'I'he first big 
one carries I), and Nellie and me, and eight men, ami a 
good deal of luggage; the second, Colonel and Mrs. 
Littleton, and eight men. The first small one had the 
two A. D.C.'s, .NOwell, and .si.v men; and the other small 
one held three servants and si.v men— that is to say, 
there ought to be si.x men in the two small ones, but 
f^-u left us, so our servants take it in turns at the pad- 
dles. We were most comfortable, and lav back reading 
and looking at the scenery, and occasionally doing a lit- 
tle sleeping. Sometimes the men sang the Canadian 
boat-songs which sound s„ delightful on the water and 
sometimes they cheered themselves up bv ra. ing the 
other canoes. Our tents, luggage, and provisions are 
distributed over all the boats. In the middle of the div 
we landed to lunch, and at fn-c we stopped <.n a piece ..V 
ground where Sir (Jariu-t Wolseley and his troops once 
camped. Nellie and 1 had a nice bathe, and returned to 
fmd our camp full of activity ; our twentv-f<.ur men. and 
four gentlemen and three servants hard at work < hop- 
P-ng woo.l. putting up tents, mending canoes, cooking 
dtuners, an.l making be.ls. The latter is a most impor- 
tant oftue. ! he bed-maker gets a cpiantity of drv grass 
and small branches of fir, which arc laid one o'ver the 
other .so as^ to form a spring mattress. A buffalo-robe 
goes over that, and then blankets „,/ ///u/um 

Ue had dinner of hot s<M,p, curry, stewed beef, duck, 
and prairie chicken, and a blueberry pudding, our cook 
liavmg g„t up early to pick the blueberries. The soui. 
;;l^:i/"!^:^^^^'''^-<'''-- tins, the game" has 



been shot on th 



done 



so wel 



e way, Mtmsieur Hcsriin. 



Wh 



our (no 



k, ha* 



tl: 



en we were driving he used to arri 



vc 



374 



AfV CAXAD/AX JOUKAAL. 



CH. XIX 



m 



sometimes lon^r after tis, wlic-n it was (|uite dark, and in 
five minutes" time he would be hard at work, and our 
dmner well under way. Mr. M, Kay, who is a great 
traveler, said he never saw a man wlio could produce a 
dinner so expeditiously, and get his things i)acked up 
again so cjuickly. In addition to this, he is always in a 
good humor, and in the daytime now he paddles away 
with a beaming countenance. 

Strange to say, though on the banks of a splendid 
river, we have no good drinking-water, and are obliged 
to suck it through a .sort of baby's-bottle lilter ! Jn the 
matter of drink we are badly off ; we have brought no 
wine, so as to lessen our luggage; we have no nnlk (ex- 
cept |)reserved milk), and, as I said before, good water 
IS hard to get. Tea is our principal beverage, but 
without milk it is not very nice. We also have choco- 
late (which makes us thirsty). 

Moiuhiy, ^,\/. — rp at six ; lovely morning ; tlie gentle- 
men bathc'l. and we got off on our travels l)y 8 ^„ 
We had another delightf.il day. We made two i)ortagesi 
andac the end of the senmd we lunched; a waterfall.' 
which we escaped by our portage, was really a verv' 
pretty and important one; and after lunch we went 
over such an exciting rapid : it was a great dip, the 
other part of the water being (i-jto smooth, and we 
seemed to slide over it, and then to plunge into a stormy 
sea. the canoe gallantly rising to the waves. At this 
one there were great cries of " Back water ! " and cner- 
getic signs made to the canoes behind us to avoid a cer- 
tain r(nk on the way. Later on wo had another very 
exciting descent, where the stream carried us at a fear- 
ful pace sharp round a rock ; we were all covered with 
water-prcv.fs. and some of the canoes shipped a good 
deal of water. 

The scenery i» beautiful : the W 



ipeg 



loo 



ks 



CH. XIX 

te (lark, and in 
work, and our 
who is a jfreat 
)uld product' a 
nijs packed up 
is always in a 
L' paddles away 

of a splendid 
nd are ol)li;rcd 
(liter! In the 
ve broujrht no 
■e no milk (ex- 
re, good water 
l)everaj,^e, but 
') have choeo- 

ii ; the ;,'entle- 
vels by 8..?(>. 
two portages, 
i ; a waterfall, 
really a very 
nch wc went 
jreat din, the 
lotli, and we 
into a stormy 
vc's. At this 
■ I " and ener- 
1 avoid a ccr- 
another very 
us at a fcar- 
rovered with 
pped a good 

KcUloni looks 



SF.Pi. 1877 /•///,• ..;/7//7/.; /)0(; .U/SS70.V." 



375 



I-kc'anvcr. In,t„rarlyalwaysl,kea iovelv lake f„ll .,f 
'>landx ihcy are mcky and wooded, and sonietunes 
here are Meej, precipu e. of ro< k. The foliage .s vaned 
(■>"l all p.ne), and the delightful weather helps to n,,ke 
It all charniing. 

We ramped at hve. and the u.ual husv srenes were 
enarted. I watched the way the nu-n kneaded the.r 
bread, and then 1 madeah,af; they use a Httle baking- 
P-v>ler. and pour the water actually into the sack of 
'""'■•''"'' *'" ''1' the kneading in the top of if then 
they spread the dough ou, in a frying-pan. and' put it 

"'",7 Y'""^ ''"■• -^ '''''^' '"'" ^'"-^ "^ -'^- - the 
result, lennnuan soup is another <,f their d.shes, and 
••^•al.v.t ,. no, at all IkhI, an.l it is verv (excuse the 
w.H-d) ••hllinj,." ,vhi.h is a great advantage. 

it is W(.nderful h,,w quickly these men put up our 
tents, especially as they have to cut down trees to make 
r.K.m f,.r them. I don't think thev were half an h.,ur 
getting then, up to-night. lighting all the fires, and un- 
IMcking all the things. lia. h crew has its own cook 
aiul mess. 

We stopped at a small Mission we saw on th. wav 
tn .get some milk. It is called the "White Do^r yu'^'. 
Sinn." .ind ,, h.iif-hreed clergyman lives ther,.. His wife 
lias been ill a year, has never seen a do, tor. and is now 
oil her back in a birch-bark tent, where she thinks .he 
lias mot-.- air than in a house. I went in to see her: she 
can speak Knglish a little, but did not seem to have 
riH.re comfortable surroundings than an Indian. \\\- 
were sorry we had no d,„,or will, us to ':el|. the poor 
Hiin,g. and such cases n.ake one realize the hardship ,,f 
living in these lonely parts. 

r/nx,An, ^//,.- Thv weather and the delights of our 



loiirncv h 



da 



th 



vs. 



I 



e sanie 



is on 



tht 



ast two 



il 



:r. 



le only events were the view of 



one most lo 



vely 



I 



m 



n 



'li'i 



'lil : 
ill' 



w 



i 



i 

Pli 



37^> 



MY C AX AD/AX JOURXAL. 



rn. XIX 



walt-rf.-ill, .intl snine line rapuls. At the fall tlic nvcr 
\va> ahoiil half a mile widf. ami the fall strcti lied liie 
whole way aciDss. It is really an enoinicjus rai)ul, tnil 
(■\( ept ill hei;;ht, it is one of the finest \\aterfall> I have 
seen, \\\' porla^a'd across, and ;4<it into our canoes 
a,i,Min at the foot ot it. 

There was one rapid which I >. went down Imt would 
not allow me to try, as there was some danj;er that one 
iniL;iit he swept into .i whirlpool antl upset; but all llie 
canoes i;ot safelv llirout;!) it. 




KAr I'oKlAi; 



We have just campi-ii at a porta,i;e for tlu'iii.uht. We 
landed at one side of an island, and the canoes and all 
our ^iiods wt're ( arried to the other side of it ; there \vc 
found ourselves (to use .i;e()K'';U''i'i';'l lan)j;uaj>e, witliout 
reallv stiulyinjs' the points of tlie compass) "bounded 
on tlie north" by a waterfall, tlowinjj; from us; on the 
soutli bv a i;reat rapid and a wood ; wood on the east, and 
an island lillin.i,^ up tlu' space Iietween tlii' Rapid and the 
lall on the west. To-morrow we liave to rov,- across 
the little basin, and iiortaH;c to tlie bottom of tiie I'all. 

Tliis W'!nnii)e,i; surjiasses all rivers 1 iiave ever seen, 
beinii so much more lieautifi.l than the other iar;;e rivers 
and lakes 1 liave been on. We enjoy our days ini- 



CII. XIX 

ill thf river 

retched llic 

IS rapid, but 

rfall^ I liavc 

our taivoes 

11 Init would 

j;er that one 

l)Ut all the 




leui^ht. We 
noes and alt 
It ; tliere we 
ia},a', without 
s) "hounded 
11 us ; on tiie 
I tlie east, and 
Lipid and the 
o row across 
.,f the 1-ali. 
\H' ever seen, 
.■r lar;;e rivi'rs 
lur davs iin- 



SKPT. 1877 



KJ/'fDS. 



1:7 



menstdy, and are sorry \vc have only two more of this 
dcH;^rhtful life. 

I). IS so inilustrious alx.ut drawin;^'; he has made a 
(piantity of pretty sketches. 

//V,///,-.v,/,/r, j///._l tried to describe to you the situ- 
ation of our campinjr.jrround, and I hope I made it clear 
that we had just to cross a small bay to the head of a 
waterfall, and to portage there, j^ettin^^ into our canoes 
again at the l)ottom. 'Ihe crossing was very exciting, 
for we ajiproached the Fall as if we were just going over 
it, and at the last moment we turned into an eddy, which 
swept us into a (juiet landing-place. 

I-rom the bottom, these great rapids are really beau- 
tiful ; they appear like one great wall of water, stretch- 
ing the whole widtii of the river, and divided into four 
I)y islands covered with trees. 

After we got into our boats we had a very short way 
to go before reaching another i)ortage, and here the 
rajiid went round two sides of an island, and we got in 
at the cpuet side (the third), and came round to the front 
of the Fall, wiiere we could look up at it. The weather 
continues to be perfectly lovely— a bright sun, not too 
warm, and everything is so gay ind pleasant. 

The third portage we made was about three cpiarters 
of a mile long, but we could not see the danger we es- 
caped until we were some way from it; then we looked 
back on a very fine fall. At the fourth portage we 
crossed an island which divided an immense rapid, and 
came to a place which looked worse to go down than 
anything 1 have hitherto seen ; the two rapids met here, 
and there was such a l)uhbling and iK.iling that the un* 
instructed eye could not see the way out of the diffi- 
culty. We apjieared to start straight for a great hole, 
and then to i)e borne away from it by a back current, 
and I was very glad when I found myself safe at the 






I'f 





AfV CA^ADIA.^ JOURXAL. CH. xix 

bottom, and when we landed at a very pretty camping- 
ground. -■ i & 

Indians have put up on a post the skull of a bear to 
show .uher Indians that they have killed bears here and 
we have taken the teeth as souvenirs of the place 

We came down another long, rough rapid, and then 
down some pretty little ones, and stopped rather early 
to camp, because the place was so beautiful we wished 
to stay at it. 

It is at the mouth of the IJirch River, which here 
flows nito the Winnipeg; and the two are flowing in 
c.pi)osite directions round an island. There are five or 
MX other islands in .sight, but the ground itself is not 
very good for camping : the rock shelves into the water 
and we have to cut places in the wood behind for our 
tents. 

Thursday^ 6th.~\\^ have been going down quite a 
Cham of ra|)ids this morning, and have had five portages 
one after the other. At the bottom of each we looked 
up at what this country calls " rapids," but what any 
other would dignify by the name of waterfalls. Some 
of us came down one that really was a precipice; there 
was a descent of (p.ite four feet, almost perpendicular, 
so that our canoe slanted headforemost down, and then 
rose lightly on the waves, 

The whole afternoon we had a fair wind, and sails 
were improvised in each canoe; with them we went very 
fast through the water, and landed at five much nearer 
to Fort Alexander than we had expected to get. On one 
side of us there is a roaring rapid, and another one lies 
I)efore us, for to-morrow morning. My tent is in a most 
picturescpie spot : I am in an arbor of trees, and 1 look 
across the lovely little bay, and down the river— sum- 
mer lightning enabling me to see the view everv now 
and then. Nellie'H tent is behind mine, and she rejoices 



CM. XIX 

etty camping- 

1 of a hear, to 
ears here, and 
e place. 
l)icl, and then 
rather early 
ul we wished 

r, which here 
re flowing in 
:re are five or 
itself is not 
ito the water, 
hind for our 

own quite a 
five portages 
h we looked 
lit what any 
falls. Some 
:ipice; there 
.'rpendicular, 
vn, and then 

id, and sails 
e went very 
nuch nearer 
!;et. On one 
lier one lies 
is in a most 
, and 1 look 
river — sum- 
r' every now 
she rejoices 



.SKI'T. 1877 



J-OA-r .i/./:x.i.v/)/:a'. 



379 






in the noise of the I'all. v. h„h .he tl,ink> a .leli-htful 
lullaby. 

/v/;/</r. ;///.--\Ve linished all mir camping uith.mt hav- 
ing had a drop of rain, but this morning the sky looked 
gloomy, and ue had our waterproofs readv to' pnt on 
We g..t up at si.v.and had only a cup of ch.-Vnlate and a 
l)iscu.t. so that ue might get off (piicker ; f.,r when we 
have a more elaborate breakfast we have to wait so long 
while the dishes are l)eing washed, 

The cnsetpience of „ur frugalitv was that we -ot 
over " the long portage" by ,S..5o ; and verv long it u"is 
more than three (piarters of a mile, hillv and slippery 
ground, and hard for the men to carrv the heavv canoes 
over. I'his day we made five portages, and as 'the rain 
did come on a little, and as the skv was cloudv they 
seemed more tiresome than usual. .\t one of th'e port- 
ages a canoe fell, and an immense hole was made in it- 
I he men set to work and mended it tpiickiv : thev got 
balsam-root, with which they sewed the birch-l)ark'over 
and over, and then with rosin thev covered the stitches 
up, and the canoe was ready for the water again 

There was only one shower in the morning,' but as 
ue were approaching Fort .Alexander in the afternoon it 
began to rain pretty hard. The sight of their destina- 
tion set the men a-singing, and we had all sorts of boat- 
songs, and rowed our four canoes up to the .piav t,. the 
triumphant tune of " Kn roulant ma boule " 

(lunshots were fired off from various cottages on the 
banks as w. passed them, and when we landed we found 
arches i)repared for us to pass under. 

The hostess at this fort is the daughter of Mr and 

Mrs Flett, of the Stone Fort; her husband is a Mr 

Mackenzie, and she has one dear little bov. and a babv " 

\\e had expected to meet our .steamer here, bi.t'.i 

has not arrived, so Mrs. Mackenzie is going to let us 



liv. 



3Ro 



AfV C.iy.lD/.lX /OTA' X.I/.. 



(II. XIX 



camp in luT lioiisc. As it is raiiiiiij.;'. il is vt-rv |ilcasant 
t<i be uiultT a roof, ami \vc enjoyed a ( up of lea with 
"real" nnik very much, tliouj^h certainly we have not 
l)een able to complain of our food on tiiis expedition; it 
has !)een excellent, and it was for the first time vester- 




INDIAN (JRAVK AT KURT AI.KXANUKR. 

day that we had to do witiiout bread, and take to sailor's 
biscuit instead. 

S<r/t/ri/ii\\ Sf/i. — A ^reat disappointment awaited us 
this mornin),^ — the unaccountable non-arrival of our 
steamer. She ()iij,dit to have been v.aitiny for us days 
aj^jo, and we are shut np here imtil she does come. 
'I'here is neither telej^raph nor other comnr;p,ication 



with the outer work!, and we wonder how we shal 
tiine." 



kill 



(11. XIX 

ry iilf;i>aiit 
if t(.'a with 
c have not 
pt'ditidii ; it 
iiiic vfstcr- 



SEPT. 1877 



//A- IXDIAX GRAVE. 



381 




„' to sailor's 

awaited us 
val of our 
for us (hiys 

Iocs COIIH'. 

iirMiication 
siuill "kill 



Wc went to visit the house of an Inciiaii who farms 
on a neighborinj,^ reserve, am! f<,un(l there the old Chief 
to whom I), jrave a watch at St. Peter's, and a few of his 
friends. The house is very well built, but it has only 
one room ; and I hear that, however lar^^e their families 
may be, the Indians have not yet begun to wish fur mure 
accommodation. 

I), looked about, found fault, praised, and gave good 
advice and a parcel of tobacco. We wound the fhiefs 
watch for him, showed him how to wear it, and coi versed 
with his brother, who is a pagan, painted, and les civil- 
ized, but a very jolly old gentleman. He is trying to 
build a house, but finds it much • more difficult to make 
than a wigwam "; and if the truth were told, he would 
probably consider it less comfortable when finished. 
The Chief told His K.x. that ;>e was " very hungry " (they 
all say this), and I), said, "and I am starving, my steamer 
has not come in, and I have eaten all my provisions"; 
upon which the Chief laughed immensely, and was cjuite 
satisfied. 

\\'e visited a curious grave — a coffin raised far from 
the ground on four posts. 

Thus did we spend the day, and we were just going 
to sit down to dinner when in walked Mr. Cami)!)ell, 
carrying a mail-bag! Of course we thought our steamer 
had come. But no ; he had started in her, but she ran 
ashore in a fog, and after vainly trying to pull her off, 
the Captain sent him on to tell us of his misfortune. It 
is indeed a great disappointment to every one concerned. 
The steamer has been done up for us, and in her we 
hoped to go round Lake Winnipeg, and to get into the 
Saskatchewan ; now this appears to be impossible, and 
we shall have to hug the shore in canoes, and shall not 
be able to do the Lake or the Saskatchewan at all. 

Mr. Campbell came in a tiat-bottomed boat with two 



382 



Af y CA i\A DIA X JO URN A I.. 



CH. XIX 



men, and had a vt-ry adventurous journey; one day he 
was blown fifteen miles out of his course, and had j^'reat 
difficulty in landin;r. He slept under his boat at nij,dit, 
and once a tremendous thunderstorm passed over him. 
I believe he really was several times in danger of being 
upset, there was such a stronjr wind. 

'I'here is just a chance that, as the wind blows in the 
rijjht direction, the Coh'illc may get off her nnidl)ank ; 
but we shall not know that yet. We have had such 
beautiful weather the last twenty-four hours that we re- 
gret the loss of our steamer immensely, and I am sure 
the Captain will be almost distracted. 'I'he reporter 
who was to have joined us in her would not face the 
flat-bottomed boat ! 

Simday, ^///._We were all up and ready for break- 
fast at seven o'clock, and by nine we had said"good- 
by " to the Mackenzies, and had packed our canoes, and 
started afresh on our way to Oimla (the Icelandic settle- 
ment). We had made up our minds to " rough it " in 
the way of provisions, anil looked forward to a possible 
diet of pemmican. Ugh! And we were bearing our 
disappointment in the most Christian manner, and were 
cheerfully reading our papers, and paddling along in 
our four canoes, when a cloud of smoke appeared on the 
horizon, and a cry of " The steamer ! " rose simultane- 
ously from all the boats. There she wa.s, off her mud- 
bank, and on her way to meet us. We soon got on 
board, and we found her most comfortably fitted up. I 
must confess, when I first saw her at Winnipeg in her 
working-dress, that, with every desire to make the best 
of everything, my heart sunk a little at the idea of 
spending si.\ days in her. Now she looks very nice; 
she has been repainted, and the hold has been turned 
into a beautiful dining-room. It has been entirely lined 
with green I)aize, while the companion ladder is clothed 



1 w 



CH. XIX 

one (lay he 
id had j^rcat 
)at at iiij^^ht, 
1 over him. 
cr of bciiij^ 

jIows in tlie 
nuidl)ank ; 
L- had such 
tliat we re- 
J I am sure 
le rep(jrter 
lot face the 

for break- 
laid ''good- 
canoes, and 
mdic settle- 
ugh it " in 
) a possible 
learing our 
r, and were 
g ah)ng in 
ired on the 

sinuiltane- 
ff her niud- 
on got on 
tted up. I 
peg in her 
e the best 
lie idea of 
very nice; 
;en turned 
tirely lined 
■ is clothed 



SKPT. 1S77 



fOA'T AUiXAXDER. 



383 



m red. and she has altngcther a most cheerful and com- 
fortable appearance. The gentlemen sleep in this .saloon 
On deck we have a sitting-room, and out of it are two 
cabms, with two berths .n each. There is another nice 
large cabin for Colonel and Mrs. Littleton. 

When we came on board we found a little Icelandic 
n.aid-servant, on her way to Mrs. Mackenzie. .She could 
only say "yes" and "no,- and her principal lugga.^e 
consisted of a tlower-pot with a geranium growing ""in 
It. She went on to Fort .Ale.xander in our canoes We 
took a tender leave of all our men, who were greatly 
delighted with a little e.xtra pay I), gave them. They 
were a most good-natured, friendly, shabbv lot ; and 
each day their clothes got more and more ragged, but 
at Fort Ale.xander one or two new shirts and cai)s made 
their appearance. 

I think our own clothes are rather in the same dis- 
reputable condition ; for. what with dragging one's self 
through the bush, sitting by camp-fi-es, having holes 
burned in ,me's gowns, lying or sitting on one's hat and 
never having one's boots cleaned, one is conscious of 
being rather uncivilized-looking when one re-enters so- 
ciety. I have been happy in the knowledge that after 
this journey my gown need never appear again, and that 
a mir.fortune more or less is a matter of no importance 
I bought, too. at a Hud-son's J?av store, a man's soft 
gray felt hat, which turns up or down, and accommo- 
dates Itself to every ray of sunshine; the rain may 
P<n>r upon ,t with impunity, and I can lean back upon 
It, so that wearing it I suffer no economical pangs The 
old gown is gray, and I have one new navv-blue ser-e 
in which to encounter natives; and this is all the finery 
1 could pack into the canoe. 

Nellie also has a dear old frock and hat. and on,- 
good one in a bo.x for grand occasions; but she can not 



'1 



I; 



384 



A/y C.tX.ID/.tX JOUAW.II.. 



Cll. XIX 



Ml i 



have anything of ht-rs on for two minutes without its 
meeting with some serious accident; the glory of her 
smart frock has been sadly marred during the two days 
upon which she has worn it. 

Of course we have fresh i)rovisions on tlie C'/tHI,; so 
the pemmican diet is posti)one(l for a time. The re- 
porter has met us liere again. 

JAW,/r, JOt/t.~['\xii h.ngest day I have spent for 
some time. 

Lake Winnipeg is so hirge we were out of sight of 
land, and the Co/r,7/,- is a terril)le ship for rolling Jn 
this fine weatlier slie rolled all day, and even when we 
anchored at night she went on swaying from side to 
side. 

rursday, /////.-We started again early in the morn- 
ing, and landed at eight o'clock on the shores of the 
Saskatchewan. 'Ihere is not very much to .see at this 
particular spot : trees on each side of the river, two large 
wooden houses at the wharf, and .some groups of Iiulians 
sitting about. 'I'hey had put up decorations, and fired 
off their guns as usual. Mr. McTavish, one of the Hud- 
son's May Company, came to meet us, and took us two 
miles across the portage on a tramway laid down since 
July, and the first railway in the Northwest. The car 
was most gorgeously lined with colored blankets, and 
when we got out of it we jumped into spring-carts, in 
which we (bd the unfinished |)art of the railway. Dur- 
ing the drive we saw some views of the river, and went 
to the Hudson's Hay Company's store. We then in- 
spected a new steel steamer, and lunched ; and I put in 
a rivet in the last bit of the railwav. ,ind was presented 
with the hammer. We met here Mrs. Ilon.pas, wife of 
the Hishop of .Athabasca, and offered her a passage in 
our steamer, which she was thankful to accept. She has 
been traveling a montii to get here, and her journey 



.<HW«*4S«N 



CII XIX 

without its 
lory of her 
iic t'.vo days 

; Coh'ilh\ so 
.'. The re- 

sj)ent for 

of sij^rlit of 
■oil ill};. Jn 
n when we 
»m sitie to 

I the morn- 
)res of the 

see at tins 
', two larjre 

of Iiulians 
, ami fired 
f the Hud- 

olv US two 

own since 
i'he car 
nivets, and 
K-carts, in 
■ay. Dur- 
and went 
■ then in- 
id I ])Ut in 
presented 
IS, wife of 
iassa)^e in 
Slie iias 
r journey 



SEPI. 1877 



THE SA SKA TCI/E WAX. 



385 



from an opposite direction mak'es us feel as if we had 
not penetrated so very far into the country after all 
Uealso visited Mrs. .Math.sson. a half-l.reed.' wlio LMve 
us some pretty specimens of her w..rk. And then came 
the event of the ,iay_our descent of the (Irand Rapids 
ot the Saskatchewan in a *• V„rk " j.oat. The " York " 
's a very iar^e, lieavy. wooden ix.at. whicl, holds ai.out 
twenty people; and the rapids we went down are four 
miles lon;,r. They are simply e.xtremelv rou;,rh wat.r 
a'ul wc f.nind them more sea-sicky and less exciting 
than the Winnipt-jr River rapids. 

I.i our ahsence one of our servants ^ot a ^^ood In-ar- 
skm fr<.m a man who killed the animal last night • he 
saw another hear there. I,ut we have no time to go after 
't. Ue hshed. hut though we saw a man witli a great 
barrowful of beautiful "white fish" fresh out of the 
water, caught nothing ourselves. Colonel Littleton got 
three pike in the morning. I), saw an Indian chief, and 
gave him a gun. 

_ We started off on our journey h.une ahout five 
odock, and looked forward with dread to Lake Win- 
nipeg. 

//V,/..,v,/.;v. ,..//,. We had a very good night, and. 

t.ll be ter, a heautiful day. so we enjoyed our vovage 

VNc talked to Mrs. iJompas and heard iur missiom'ry 

cxpenences. She lives in a place where she never has 

mdk or i)u ter i>read only three ti.nes a week (as flour 

"•«ts^.5 a i,ag). and fresh meat very rarely-pork an.i 

IH-mmican being her chief food ail the vear round. No 

simit IS allowed to be sold in the .Northwest, so •' the 

p easures of the bottle " are also denied the inhabitants 

ol these distant regions. 

in the middle of the day we went nsliore to see some 
Indians. The Chief was such a funnv old man. He 
gave wonderful 



ii 



expression to his one remark. 



repeated 



386 



A/y C.iXADIAX JOUKXAt.. 



en. XIX 



in a variety of ways while I), was sijeaking to him ; all 
he ever said hcinjr " Ah ! " " Kh ! " " Ah ! " " Kh ! " but 
one understood his gratitude, his wonder, his assent, and 
all his I'eelinjrs. perfectly well each time he emitted the 
soiuHJ. The receipt of a ^\\\\ evoked a very well-satis- 
fied "Ah!" but the mention of pork and flour brought 
forth an enthusiastic " Kh ! " and a shout from his i)eople. 
Thursday, /jt/i.—^ \. m. : Rollins;, rolling, doors bang- 
injr, ju^s upsettinjr all the morninj;; „o more sleep to be 
had, and the melancholy news that it is (|uite impossible 
to land at (;imh> to jrreet us when we feebly struggle 
down to breakfast. 

(Jimla is the Icelandic settlement which I), must see, 
and the alternative before us is either to roll about at 
anchor until the wind siiifts, which it mav do in a day 
or two, or to go all the way to the Stone Fort to coal, and 
return to-morrow (always provided the wind changes). 

1). thought the first alternative was out of the (|ues- 
tinn for me, so we settleil to come to the Stone Fort— 
and here 1 am. 

Once safe in a house, with the memory of the rolling 
fresh upon me, I could not make up my mind to seven 
hou.s more to (limla and seven back again; so Nellie, 
Mrs. Littleton, my maid, and I remain here for thJ 
night, while I ). and the gentlemen, having arrived here 
at two, started back again at five. 

They will get to the mouth of the river before it is 
dark, anchor there, and, if they can land, go on to 
(limla in the morning. 

It has been such a dreadful aiternoon— pouring rain, 
and two fearful thunderstorms. I shall have to give you' 
a second-hand account of ( limla. 1 am very sorry not 
to have seen it, but the iWrt7/f is such a lively little 
steamer in rough water that I dreaded fourteen hours 
mofc uf hcf ! 



CM. XIX 

to liiin ; all 
"Kh!" but 

assent, ami 
cmitic'd the 
y well-satis- 
lur l)r(iii>;lit 
1 his people. 
Joors baiiy- 

sleep to be 
' impossible 
)ly struggle 

). must see, 
ill about at 
-lo in a day 
io coal, and 
ihanges). 
'f the (|ues- 
Diie Fort — 

tlie rolling 
id to seven 
so Nellie, 
re for the 
rived here 

lefore it is 
go on to 

iiring rain, 
o give you 
sorry not 
ively little 
een hours 



SEPT. 1877 



GI.\fLA. 



2^7 



i 






We have telegraphed for horses, and hope to U'ave 
this to-morrow. Meantime. .Mr. and Mrs. Mctt are 
makmg us very comfortable. 

I), left with a very bad headache; he was up and 
clown all night, saving all <.ur go.,,!. fr..m being thing 
about the cabin, so 1 was n..t surprised that he had one 
We landed Mrs. Honipas at the house of .Archdeacon 
Cowley, where she is going to spend the winter. 

/>/;/</,■, /7//,.-()ur carriages arrived verv earb- i,, 
the morning, and we were able to start befor'e no.m in 
the ambulance, or, as my maid calls it, the "rund.le- 
tumble machine." 

Wc had. during the next six hours, a real spe. imen 
of Red River mud. Imagine driving twentv-five miles 
over a field of clay soil whi,h has just been' harrowed, 
and you may accpiire some n<.tion of the way in which 
our wheels were clogged with mud. and the hor.ses' tails 
weighted d,.wn with great balls of it. Ilappilv it was 
fine overhead, and we got " home " at five. 

We had .six mail-bags to ..pen, and were busy till 
dmner-time reading our letters. The housemaid cooked 
for us, and we enjoyed the cpiiet evening after all our 
traveling. 

S,tturif,i\\ /j-M.—Such a pouring morning ! We arc 
so glad to be safe at .Silver Heights. 

His Kx. got to Gimla yesterday. He spoke to the 
Icelanders, and said in his speech : " The homesteads I 
have visited seem well-built and commodious, and are 
certainly superior to any of the farmhouses 1 renumber 
in Iceland ; while the gardens and little clearings win, h 
have begun to surround them show that y,>u have 
already tapped an ine.\haustible store of wealth in 
the rich alluvial soil on which we stand." He then 
welcomed them to bin rn„ntry. saying. " It is a country 



;*' 



in which you will find yourselves fr 



eemen, serving no 



3«8 



^fV CAXAD/AX JOURXAL. 



CH. XIX 



overlord, and iK-in^: no man's men but your own ■ each " 
master of h,s own farm, like the Tdalmen and I'.onders 
of old days " ; and concluded with tluse words- "I 
trust you will continue to cherish for all time the heart- 
stirrmg literature of your nation, and that fr..m jjen- 
eration to generation your little ones will continue to 
learn in your ancient Sa^as that industry, ener^ry, forti- 
tude, perseverance, and stubborn endurance which have 
ever b^'en the characteristics of the noble Icelandic 
race.' 

The gentlemen arrived this afternoon, but the serv- 
ants did not get through the mud till late in the even- 
ing. 

Sunday, i6ih.-<su cold ! W c are thankful for a fire 
and shiver at the thought of „ur camp to-morrow. 

Church in the morning, and in the afternoon a visit 
from eight men, three ladies, and two children -all 
Americans from St. I'aul, who have come here f(,r a 
trip, remaining only two days, and ."o„,inj. i,, f„r bad 
weather. 

They brought me all sorts of messages from the 
ladies of St. I'aul, who regretted so much tlu.v had „,.t 
seen me there. They ,Iid m.t know I should' be at the 
Reception, and when they heard 1 was. they "felt 
badly," because they had not come to it 

Mo,ulay lyth.-W^ .lid not manage to get off oui 



so 



selv 



es, and our baggage, till after t> 



we started in the ambulanr 



•o o'clock ; but then 



e, and with all th 



ing-horses and wagons, the only differe 

cession being tl at, instead of the portly form of 



McK 



:iy, we had a clerk of his i 



e usual rid- 
lice in our pro- 
Mr. 



e reached the 



n our guiding-buggy. 



driven to it across the | 



camping-ground at five, h, 



iving 



ou 



r mattresses did not arrive, and at fi 



>rairie; but our provisions and 



had absolutely nothing to eut. On tl 



rst we thought w( 



oser inve.stjg.ation, 



L. 



CH. XI.X 



SEPT. 1877 



A LEATlfFK LODGE. 



•our f)\vn ; each 
en and JiDnck-rs 
CSC words : " I 
time the heart - 
Jiat from ^en- 
ill continue to 
•, t-nergy, forti- 
ice wiiich have 
ol)Ie Icelandic 

1, but the serv- 
tc in the even- 

vful for a fire, 
morrow, 
ternoon a visit 
children — all 
ne here for a 
I'k' i" for bad 

gcs from the 

they had not 

HI 1(1 be at the 

they "felt so 

' «-et off our- 
)ck ; but then 
the usual rid- 
- in our pro- 
form of Mr. 

five, having 
•ovisions and 
c thought we 
nvcstigalion, 



3'^9 



.^3f<.und that the cook iKul a few scraps wuhhun. and 
ot them he made us a capital dinner. 

Instead of a beit-tent we tried a leather " |o,|j;c- "-in 
-t'uT words, a rcK^ular Indian teut-the chief merit of 
which IS. that m u you are able to have a «ood tire. We 
watched the men puttin^^ .t up. There are thirteen lon.^ 
stuu poles. Jhree are fed to.^ether at the top. and are 
.fted up, and spread out at the bottom ; ei.dit others are 
hen fitted round these, so as to complete the circle at 
the bo torn, and to form a frame for the leather cover- 
'"K. Iwo c.rners of a large sheet of leather are at- 
acht'd t(, two more poles, and with these it is lifted over 
the skeleton frame-work; these two p.des also work the 
chimney apparatus. 

The tent is quite open at the top. but ,he two flaps 
of kaer regulate the draught. Ue had a good fire l., 
Ko to bed by. and to .Iress by in the mornin- but ue let 

•t go out at night. The provisions arrived late m Ju- 
evening. 

_ Turuiay^ rm.-.\\\^ j.„t up earlv. and werc^ breakfast- 
;.;|; wh- Mr. McKay arrived. We cheered his . Intl. 
'H.t 1 am sorry to say he brought the Littletons a tele- 
Rram r p ,,,^ 

that they had better return home 

ur.ulh'7/n, ''"■''• '''""''"^ ^^ '^"-- -'•' -I' tele. 

'M till t<. -morrow, and the chihj mav be better 

\\ I- were a long time packing onr wagons and ( at< h- 

.nRmir horses; but at last we started, and had an 
c. over the prairie. I>. had a headache, caused, he 

mks.bytheextr.neIybadwMerwehadtodri,klast 
*,ht. It recpiire,! no microscope to show the a imals 

"t Of course we filtered it. but F don't think it was 
P-ss,ble to make it wholesome. When we reached our 
i"nrheon-piace I), lay down, and with a good fire wc 



390 



^/y C.IX.tD/AX JorA'X.IL. 



<ll. XIX 



k'"t a little wa 



nil. 



\n\.Uir. 



lie sun is bri^rht, but the 



wind 



IS 



'I'lic after 



our canipmjr.jrrouiKl I 



"""M was e(]ua:iy cold, and wli 



fu we reached 



as (|UK 



kly 



was jrlad to j,a.t lhe"h.d«e"u|, 
as possible, that I), nii^rht ^..-t to bed. He 



was very feverish, and had 



// tdllCSiii 



n: 



house so hut th 



f'^//t.-~l f 



a terrible headachi 



outid the fir 



e Ml niv 



■ath 



IS mnrnni^r that I had u, let it burn d 



cr 



l)ef()re I could dress at it. |) 



own 



start in the anil)uhi 



i-ak( 



nice with us. We d 



was better, and able t( 



where we saw ()uaiitities of 



rf)ve past Shoal 



rrow-ducks stand 
our way lay lhrouj,di jir 



geese and of Lirj^^e 



"iJ,' upon pieces of rock in the wat 



cr ; 



iftcr a drive of 



uric 



oak-coppice, and marsh, and 



houses here and there, tl 



seventeen miles we bej-an t 



o see fa 



rm- 



rinally a little 

which we looked out on I.ak 



ere. then a Hudson's liav st 



a' ion, and 



«"tta;re, at whiih we stopped, and f 



Tl 



e Manitoba. 



roni 



le cottajre is Mr. M( K 



rooms, in one of which on 



ly's. It consists of 1 



wo 



the other eaten. We pitched all 



1- dinner will be cooked, and 



House. 
U 



our tents close to tl 



111 
le 



liile waiting for the w 



down to the Lake, an 
sea, with no land to I 
wide at this port. The si 
and Nellie am 



igoiis to arrive, we walked 



enormous sheet of water, like a 
)e seen across it. It is fifty miles 
lore is a lieautifu! sandv beaili 



used herself with the shells |) 



little lunch felt well enough to go out f 

look after some ducks. Captain Smith brough't' 1 



ifter 



or an hour to 



i)itt 



en., a plover, and three ducks, but 



loiiie a 



anything. 



no one else got 



Tftutufaw 2oth.~'\\\ 
ih 



ranoes this morning, and Nell 



e gentlemen went off in f 



U 



'e and I rem, 



e visited the Hudson's Hay store, wl 



was very civil to us; sli 



(uir 
lined alone, 
lere Mr. Clark 



Jus garden, ami afterward 



owed us his bears, his d( 



s sent me a 



quantity of How- 



^- CM. XIX 

but tlu' wind is 

when wc rc;uii«'(l 
tlu' "lodjre •• „p 
:<■■{ to l)cd. He 
idaclie. 
in Miy leather 
ft it burn down 
tcr, and al)lc to 
ove past Shoal 

and of larj^^e 
< in the water; 
and marsh, and 
'1 to see farm- 
!ay station, and 
'pcd, and from 

onsists of two 
cooked, and in 
s close to the 

ive, we walked 
f water, like a 
It IS fifty miles 

1 sandy I)each, 
s I), after a 
for an hour to 
Diitfht home a 

one else got 

t (>(i in four 
nained alone. 
re Mr. Clark 
irs, liis dogs, 
ntity of Mow- 



sept. 1877 



lAJsTE MANITOBA. 



391 



ers from it. The sun shone brightly, and it was very 
Jileasant. ^ 

The sportsmen got home about seven oVloek U,s 
Ivx. i8 head, Fred lO, Captam Smith 17, and Mr M, Kiv 
25- ' ^ 

They had several sorts of duck, plover, l),ttern 
grebe, and coot. They .saw over a thousand duck bu^ 
they were diffic.dt to approach. I), savs the shooting 
was very pretty and curious. Thev paddled to a sort of 
marsh, where there were gigantic rushes fornimg streets 
lanes, and squares of water. About these waterwavs 
they went, trying to get quietly up to the duck ; but the 
birds were very wild. 

After dinner Mr. Clark and an Indian agent came 
over from the Hudson's Hay store, and sat bv our fire 
Mr. Clark has lived here nine years. He has not one 
single neighbor or companion, and is unmarried. 

Mr. McKay described to us how i,e shot sixteen 

swans here last April. He had an enormous tub made 

for himself, which he sunk into the ice; he had it filled 

with hay, and surrounded with rushes. As he wciirhs 

twenty-eight stone, he must have looked funnv in his 

tub. In front of him he placed a stuffed swan, and 

there he sat, and shot the live ones whi.l, came to look 

at It. He remained there all day, got frightfullv chilled. 

and was ill for fifty days with rheumatic fever- the firs 

ailment he ever had. 

The wind began to rise in the evening, and at night 
the no.se m our tent was dreadful ; the wind whistled in 
at the hole .n the top, and the chimney flapped about. 
I hen an enormous d<.g crept in, and alarmed me I 
beard a rustling, and, looking up. saw a black creature, 
which I took for a man; I spoke, and the creature 
rushed out of the tent in such a rapid manner that I 



knew It must be a dog. I told I)., who d 



36 



eclared I was 



.)/>' CAX.U)/AX JOVRXAL. 



CH. XIX 



'''■'^am,n^: but .n a short time a<,ain I saw this j,reat 

annual, ancl a,,a,n fn^htc-ne,! hun w.th mv voire (Inehan 
cio;,- arc- very shy. l,ut savage ,f yen ch'.n't su<cec-(i in 
fnghtnun,,. thc-m) ; then I got up and barru-adc.I the 
door of my tent. 

Next morning a howhng was heard; so D. at last 
believed I was awake, and got n^ too. and assisted in 
mak„,g the flapping oilcloth door a little more service- 
ab e. Ue had evervthing we possessed piled upon the 
end of . to keep it down. The no.se in the tent was 
louder than that in a gale of wmd at sea, and ti,ere 
was so nnich draught we had to wrap up our heads as 
It we were out of doors. 

FnJay, ^/./.-Mr. AFcKay has a terrible headache, 
and there is too much wind for tl 



Jng IS put a stop to, which 



tain Smith have 



walked out to 



tiling in the marsh close I 



)V 



ne canoes, so the shoot- 
is annoying. Fred and Cap- 
see if they can get any- 



TI 



10 wind fell, Mr. McKay lost his headache, and 



gentlemen went ofT for the aft 



shooting is called here, 
great deal— the birds 



crnoon's "hunt in; 



'I'hey diti not bring back 



the 
as 



rusl 



Iff. A number of the birds thev si 



were .so wild ; twenty-six the total 



;o 



les. 



t were lost in the 



Sdtiadaw 



ui.—Wv I 



inpr. and after lunch 



cit our encampment this ni 



^niifh went 



eon Mr. McKav. D, 



orn- 



out 



and Captain 



Smith tossed up, and Fred I 



looting again. Fred and Cant, 



\\n 



U'e (I 



'St the place in the 



canoe. 

ler an 

is not even a shrub near it, 

ong grass, on a small piece of hi'diish 



love on to the camping-place, which is rati 
uninteresting spot. There 
^\\(\ we are in I 

ground surrounded b^ swamp. We can hear the sports- 
men s shots, and see an immense number of ducks es- 
caping, and flying over us. Fred has gone on foot to 
see what he can fet. 



en. XIX 



saw this ji^reat 
y voire (Indian 
on't MKcccd in 

barricaded the 



so D. .-It last 



and 



assisted ii 



c more service- 
I)iicd upon the 
in the tent was 
st-a, and tliere 
p our heads as 

ibie Iieadache, 
«, so tile shoot- 
Fred and Cap- 
y can get any- 

clachc, and the 
" hiintin.n-," as 
bring back a 
y-six the total 
-Te lost in the 

lit this niorn- 

, and Captain 

and ("a[)tain 



in tl 



ic canoe. 



I is rather an 
shrul 



) near it. 



•e of highish 

ar the sports- 

of ducks es- 

le on foot to 




SEPT. 1877 



PORTAGE LA PRAIRIE. 



W 



it>y came bark, having ;^rcatl 



393 



I^-ff"t nineteen bir Is ; %• I rT'"' " ''''''' ^^^^'• 
Sunday, 2jd.^\s^ ,,^j i„ 

J7---y to-day, but the shooting ve ter^ vVen\ ' T'l 
« i'ttic. Ue lunched close to the h' T "' ''^'"'^ 
surveyor, who brourhf ""'' "^ '' ^'•^^^^VM^ 

butte;.and w^vS ^s nfr'Vr"'"'^ '^^^^^-^^'- 
estabhshed hm.sel 1 n , o '"'^'^^'"- "^' '^'"^^ 

camped about fo o c d ? T"' "' ^""-' '"'^- ^^'^ 
of seeing ColoneLu , '""" ^'^ '^^ '''-^"^^ 

Littleton has ^ e hon rT\" "^ ^^"^""''^ "^- '^'-• 
letters also arru d In w "' ^■'"' " ^^^'"-- «- 

cIro;f:;ng^:;^^;-;::i^^-V'alf-past eight, an 
Portage La IVairf^ T '" ''""'^"^ ^'^'^ ^-'"« ^o 

bands of pain ed Indi n '"' ?7 "''"" ''*"^' '''" -'^'--. 
ics •• UV r ' '"'' '" '""^^ procession of " bue 

d'not ee t:;; h"" 'T '" '"^'-- ''.-n' a - 
old ladv^r "le 7" "' '"'' '"'"'^' ^^'^ -^«' the 
her bread as cT'h, '""" '""' '^^'^ ^""-- ^te .p 
her rich tl^ H^';^J:Zr1 ''''''^ ''''' '^^^ 
great interest and pride 1 ^ "" ''''"''"' '" ^^'^- 
a market they .l^^t r?:;L I'oT: ?;' ' T' '''' 
- Railway .neon. .ntn^lCU:::::^^ - 

.ro::;^r;l-:r:^^:S- -He Indians, and .e 
peg. and on the uav home ' ' "■'^' ^^ ^^■'""'■ 

broidered wiiS sold r; :: r' "' ''•^^'"^^- -• 

the stripes off his t ouse t u ^^'-"-t^s, and then 

withaLen ,.J.I !'':.' '."'^''^' *'»" "'^J friend of his. 



(blank 



green wreath on his head, .-ind 



ct, Nero fash 



ton), nudged hi 



rapped in a toga 



m, and egged h 



im on 




394 



AfV CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



t. XIX 

to a.lci dollars to his original prices. The man had a 
beautiful pipe, which he would not sell. 

Tucs^hn, .>,-///._j!efore startin.tr this mornin;,^ ,ve re- 
ceived an address, and were introduced to a .luantitv of 
people at High JUuffs; but we were on our wava-.un by 
iKilf-past nine. We drove till lunch-time along a good 
road, and through a beautiful farming-country. Bv the 
way, a farmer told me yesterday that they built no barns 
here, because it would be impossible to have them laree 
enough to hold their grain ! There is a great deal of 
natural wood, the country is flat, and the soil very rich • 
the only - ifs " the agriculturists have here are " if " the 
" hoppers ■• don't return, and " if " the railwav does come 
—then they will be millionaires. ' ' 

We camped at Houses to-,nght, and I think the only 
interesting feature of the plac-^ was the water Just as 
Nelly was about to drink off a tumblerful, she saw that 
It was full of large and lively animals. Colonel Littleton 
who had not looked into his before he drank it, felt verv 
uncomfortable. I think that, throughout our whole 
journey, water has been our greatest difficulty; though 
we have always had "water, water eyerywh;re," there 
was generally "not a drop to drink," unless yot^r filter 
was at and. The settlers seem to get accustomed to 
It, but It w-ould have made us very ill, I am sure 

Wednesday, 26th.-Kx. twelve o'clock to-day we reached 
Silver He.ght, and our Journey is virtual! over We 
haxe all enjoyed it very much, and are weP and much 
sunburnt after si., weeks of almost constant open ar 
Our good luck u. weather has been e.xtraordinar/; there 
was only one smgle night that we were driven fr^m our 
camp-fire by rain. The bad weather always seemed o 
come the days that we had a roof to shelter us, and this 
mornmg s dnve was cold enough to make us glad that 
our camping out is over. Our leather Indc^as -er-- 



^- t. XIX 

'riie man had a 

mDrninj; we re- 
" a <iuantity of 
ur way ajj^ain by 
: alonjr a good 
Kintry. Jjy the 
S built no barns 
ave tlieni large 
L great deal of 
soil very rich ; 
e are, "if" the 
ivay does come, 

think the only 
■ater. Just as 
. she saw that 
onel Littleton, 
ik it, felt very 
ut our whole 
culty; though 
-^ where," there 
iss your filter 
iccustonied to 
in sure. 
ay we reached 
ly over. We 
2II and much 
int open air. 
linary; there 
ven from our 
^s seemed to 
r us, and this 
us glad that 
!ge was very 



SEPT. 1877 



WIXXIPEG. 



393 



comfortable, though a little smoky; but a stove in the 
hall and an open fire in the drawing-room of Silver Heights 
are not unwelcome luxuries. 

The evening was frightfully wet— such pouring rain, 
as if to make us thoroughly appreciate our house. 

Mr. Mills and .Mr. Pelletier (two of the Ministers who 
have been traveling here) came to see us, and were un- 
able to look upon my extreme sunburntedncss without 
remarking upon it. 

Thursday, 2;///.— Most of us vent into town to pay 
bills and arrange various matters connected with our 
departure. I called upon the Morrises. 

There are such swarms of beautiful birds about the 
fields and roads. In the distance they all look the same 
like small crows; but near, there is great varietv! 
I here are orange breast.s, and crimson breasts, red- 
brown heads, two or three colored feathers in a 'wing 
and all the rest of every bird black. Thev must do a 
great deal of harm to the gram, one would think. 

Friday, 2Sth.-\y. and the other gentlemen went out 
shooting, and had a very su<rc^>tul afternoon. The 
bag was seventeen plove;, four prairie-chickens, one 
snipe, one duck, one goose (shot by Fred), one musk- 
rat, and one skunk ! There is variety for you ! 

Mr. McKay and Mr. Donald Smith dined with us 
The former gave NHIie and me two buffalo-robes and 
he has presented D. with the most magnificent horns I 
ever saw. 

Saturday, jp//,.— Last day at Winnipeg. We said 
good-by to Silver Heights soon after breakfast, and drove 
through Fort Garry and across the Red River to a place 
where D. and I each drove in a spike in the Canad.. 
Pacific Railway, the first line in this part of the wo-ld 
The chief engineer had gone to trv and get the locomo- 
live there in time for us to start it, but unfortunately it 




U I ! 




i' 




396 



^/y CAXAD/AX j0Uf!XAL. 



en. XIX 
could not be nianaircd Mr ui.w^i, i / , 

crossed the ruer a^ain, and drove to the Ci " u I 
■ where a a'>yru,,rr was given to the f ' ! ' 

eral. *" " "'^ <^")vernor - Cen- 

His speech at it was very jrood infl th. 
present were very much pleaL wh h n 77^ 

about three (urirf,.r. f V ^'"^ '"'''•'^e for 

listen w'n ' r :: ir' r";' '"-'"^ ^^^--^ •<> 

si/e t r n • '"^ ''' ^''^ ^"'"^ '^^■-^ <'f the ^reat 

-cofthe])oa.nH.,and,speakin,ofthisPronnce! 

"From its geographical position, and its necnli-,r 

Fir- :i~:3: ir ES3 

iNoNa Scotia, her Laurentian lakes and valleys corn 

tl . r ' '^"''" Kuropean kingdoms, were but 

t K- ves nbules and ante-chambers to that til the. 

confound the ar.thmet.cof the survevor and theveri.icH 
';''->fthe explorer. It was hence' that, cun, g er 
St ach.evements as but the preface and prelude tt 
future exert.ons and expanding destiniel, she to^k a 



CU. XIX 

(the engineer) 
opened in Knjr. 
r-st line in the 

t^d the Roman 
ter, and tlicre 
i(i girls. We 
fie City Hall, 
)vernor- Gen- 

the company 
He spoke for 
le seemed to 
at deal at the 
I of the great 
lis Province, 

its peculiar 

as the key- 
iiices wliich 
• I'acific. It 

woods and 
s and unex- 

un ex pec ted 

he Canadas, 

ibrador, and 

alleys, corn 

lore exten- 

s, vvere but 

" then un- 

isions alike 

he verifica- 

iinting her 

liide to lier 
ii^ f I. _ 

■••• -.wr, a 



SEPT. 1877 



UP THE RED RIVER. 



397 



fresh departure, received the afflatus of a more imperial 
inspiration, and felt herself no longer a mere settler 
along the banks of a single river, but the owner of half 
a continent; and in the amplitude of lior possession, in 
the wealth of her resources, in the sinews of her material 
might, the peer of any power on the earth." 

I>. had two addresses after lunch, and about four 
o'clock we got to the hotel, and received people till five 
saying " good-by " to all who came. Then we went 
over to the Morrises', and had a cupc.f tea; after which 
Nve got on board the A/in>n:s,>t,i, and started on cnir re- 
turn journey amidst much firing and shouting and wav- 
ing of adieus. 

One dear okl member <.f rarliament (who came as 
Falstatf to our fancy ball) was (piite overcome by the 
Krief of parting with us. and almost fell into the water 
because he would coninuie his parting speeches until 
the gangway was partially removed. 

We were very sorry to say farewell to Mr. Mc- 
Kay, whose substantial figure, in his well-known bug- 
gy, was one of the last tilings we saw as we steamed 
away. 

We felt very tired m the evening, for this had been a 
hard day. 

Su„J,iy,jof/,.-\'h,. Afinnrsota's screw shakes so much 
that 1 lind great difficulty in writing at all; but as we 
travel straight through to Ottawa. I think it better to 
defy It, rather thati wait till I arrive there. 

There is a cinnamon bear on board; a tame pig 
which answers to the namo of Dick, and a dog The 
bear sometimes hugs the pig, and the dog rushes to the 
rescue. Some one tied a bun to the pig's tail to-dav 
which the bear perceived, and seized ; but while he waJ 
leisurely arranging himself to enjoy it, the pig H^i?.fd it 



V\ 



and ate it 



up. 



■ Ti ; 




398 



AfV CAXAD/AX 



JOVR.XAL. 



Clf. XIX 



Monday, October /s/.—St 



Red River, we reached (Jratid Forks 
arrived at lisher's I.aiuiing in the night. 



"ling up the monotonous 
s at two o'clock, and 



No. 



Tuesday, 2d. — \\ 



2 of the Canada Pacific Rail 



e went ashore, and saw th 



n'peg with a train of railway-trucks, and it Ts to be 
tlie Lady Dufferin." 



e engine 
way; it is going to Win- 
called 



We St 



U W/iesdav, jd. — W 



irted at three o'clock, and si 



to g 



e reached St. Paul. 



ept in the train. 



n and dine at the hote:, which mad 



and had time 



in the j(;urney. The Milwaukee Rail 



us an additional 



free of e.xjjcnse, to C'h 

to see the banks <jf the M 

we had left the 



f a very nice break 

way Company gave 

us off on their line, 

icago, \\ c came this way in order 



car here, and .sent 



Thursday, 4th. ~\\' 



river when we trot 



issi.ssippi, but unfortunately 



noon, went to see an 

the Palmer M.nise, and left at iii 



«:ot up in the morning, 
arrived at Chicago in the after- 



exhibition g(,ing on there, dined at 



Friday, 5///. _\\ 



ne in the evening, 
e crossed the .St. Clair at Detroit, and 



arrived that evening at Toronto; the Macd 



nu 
wh 



mber of other peonl 



lonalds and a 



lie we had our tea 



people met us there, and sat with 



us 



Sa/urdav, 61). J 



>uring the night we reached 



ton. and sh-pi (juietly in our car till tl 



Kin 



gs- 



f'lrectlv after breakfast, w. 
Mrs. Hewitt. Sir E. Selby Snivtl 
and w 



'le morning, when, 
were met by Colonel and 



eiit olf at once to inspect th 



It is beautifull 



young institution, and I) 
visited the Fort, but I 



y situated, and is a 



and a guard of honor, 
e new Military College. 



yerv (1 



saw all the drill, etc. Ik- th 
ent straight to the Hewit 



"'Use. as tlie wind was bitter, and I had 



oiirishing 



en 

ts' 



cold 



on my journey 



< aught a little 



rhe Hewitts gave us a lunch, 
o'clock on our way to Ottawa, wh 



dren well and 



in 



great spirits. 



and .sent us off at t 
ere we found the chil- 



wo 



CH. XIX 



i rnonotonous 

o'clock, and 

\v the engine 
going to Win- 
is to becailed 

1 the train, 
iiul had time 
^ry nice break 
(>mpany gave 
"H their litie, 

way in order 

infortiinately 

morning. 

in the after- 
cre, dined at 
■ening. 

Hetroit.and 

)nalds and a 

sat with us 

(^hed Kings- 
-ning, when, 
"olonel and 
rd of honor, 
ary College, 
flourishing 
L\ Me then 
»e Hewitts' 
ik'lit a little 

'< off at two 
id the chil- 



, 



J 



CHAPTER XX. 

OUR LAST SEASON AT OTTAWA AM) MONTRF-At.. 

Of/awa: Sumiay, .V>r/,/Av .^M.__Ti,,re was a bad 
shock Of earthquake in the night. I am sorry to say it 
d.d not awaken me; but several people in the house got 
up to see what was the matter, and there are accounts 
ol It m all the newspapers. 

MonJay, r ■ . .,0,^ j^t/,.~\\c went into town, and did 
a quantity ui Cnrj.tmas shopping, and on our return 
found that i .e.l Ward, John Petty Ward, and Price Plack- 
wood had arrived. I was also verv busv most of the day 
gettmg the Christmas-tree ready; it is alwavs a long 
business. I have it in the middle of the ball-room, with a 
little red-baize platform round it, and then a green carpet 
forming a s(|iiare. on the floor round that ; on the platform' 
and carpet all the heavy things au" put, and the display 
this year is gorgeous. 

Christmas Day, /,V77,_We had such a " Merry " Christ- 
mas. I must tell you about it. 

In the morning we finished the tree, and then we went 
to church. 'I'hc c hildren were very an.xious to kill time, 
so after lunch we skated on the river till past four.. •(lock! 
Then we had tea, and at half-past five I gave the order 
to light up. .Mr. Dixon, the governesses, all the Little- 
tons, and our guests were present. The displav of pres- 
cnts was grand, Vict.»ria was hoarse with screaming 
over hers, and every one was pleased. Archie (who is at 



li 



Sf^-iatmm'Kr.. 




400 



MY C. XADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XX 



home from Eton for tlic holidays) was deliglUed, and in 
a great stale of excitement all day. We were twenty- 
one at fi uier, and had some dehghtful music in the 
evening. 

New Years Day, iSjS.—\\. five I began to dress my 
chicks for their play ; but before that I went down to 
the servants* hall, wliere all the children of the place 
were having their tea; the servants had decorated it 
beautifully. 

Then I pr iceeded to the luittiiig of finishing touches 
to the actors. The piece, " Fifine. the I'isher Maid," 
went off admiral)ly, and every one was delighted. The 
fleneral ami his son, Mr. Dixon and Mr. Higginson dined 
with us afterwards 

Wediiesiiay, January -?,/. — Skating on our Rink for 
the first time this winter. 

T/itirsaay, jd.—Wa went into Ottawa, and skated on 
the Rink tiiere. Some gentlemen had gallantly provided 
a band, and we danced the lancers and other figures, and 
enjoyed \l much. W'e are still driving on wheels; but 
the Ottawa is at last frozen over. 

This is the day of the children's party. I had tea for 
grown-up people in the recess off the corridor, and for 
the children in the dining-room. The guests were all 
quite delighted with the play, and as it lasted from five 
till seven, were hungry enough to enjoy their tea. After- 
wards they had a great romp in the ball-room. 

A/i>fi,/ay, 7///.~-ln the morning we went and skated in 
town, and although it was extremely cold, we danced 
our lancers and other figures, and enjoyeil ourselves 
very much. At lunch the gentlemen were full of tobog- 
Kaning, although the slide was not quite ready. There 
was a good deal of fun and chaff ibout it. and they soon 
went out, and at once decided to go down four on one 
toboggan. There was so much louse snow that the per- 







CH. XX 



iglitecl, and in 
were twenty- 
piusic in the 



n to dress my 
ent down to 
of the place 
decorated it 

■hing touches 
isher Maid," 
ij;hted. The 
jgiiison dined 

ur Rink for 

id skated on 

itly provided 

r fipfiires, and 

wheels; but 

I had tea for 
idor, and for 
jsts were all 
;ed from five 
tea. After- 
m. 

nd skated in 
, we danced 
d ourselves 
j11 of tohojr- 
ady. There 
>d they soon 
four on one 
that the per* 



FEB. 1S78 



OTT.lll'A. 



401 



son steering the toboggan was blinded, and they came 
again>t a tree, and J. 1'. Ward was seriously hurt. Fred 
rushed up to the house for brandy and assistance, and in 
a short time they carried him up. The doctor gc»t here 
in half an hour, and found his leg broken and his side 
much bruised, lie suffered greaily. U is so unfortu- 
nate; he was enjoying everything ^.o much, and now his 
whole winter is spoilt. 

Of the other three. Trice was stunned and bruised, 
Fred knocked and bruised, and Ired Ward tiie least 
hurt. 

Monday, *'<W/.— .\rchie and Terence left us on their 
way to school in Knghind. Mr. Higginson went with 
them to New \'ork. We all miss them so much, and 
spent a miserable day. In the evening we got letters 
from them written in the train. 

TliutsJa\\ jnt. — Katie and 1 went into town am! had 
a delightful skate. Mr. Haycock hail had a jiole put up 
in the Rink, from which depended a number of ribbons. 
The daniers '^tood roiuid it, and each one held a ribbon 
in her hand; then we went round ;>nd round to music, 
as in the last figure of the lancers, the ribbons being 
lifted over and under, so th.it gradually they got plai cd 
round the pole. Then we stopped, turned round, and 
going in the opposite direction unplaitei! them again. 

A great number of skaters had collected, and we had 
a very amusing morning-party. 

F»iiiii\\ February .W/.—The day of the opening of 
Parliament. If was very fme weather, but we had to go 
in carriages, not in sleighs. The Senate Chaml)er was 
full, and looked very handsome: the ladies well gnt-iip, 
the judges very splendid, etc. Having dressed in our 
finery so early, we were sotnewhat tired on our return, 
but after tea we h.-id to i\v^%% aga'n for dinne^'- and the 
Drawing-room, A thousand people passed— a steady 



im 





402 



My CAXADIA.W JOURXAI.. 



CH. XX 



Stream for an hour and a quarter-so nianv courtesies 
were exhausting. 

Monda:, //M.-We left Ottawa, a jjreat party, to stay 
at Montreal as guests of the Citv. The only two left 
behind were Cis,* who is ill, and Mr. J. P. Ward, who was 
to get up for the first time to-day. Mr. Bierstadt and 
Mr. Hayes go with us. The latter is the son of the 
President of the United States. 

We reached Montreal at six, and met with a splendid 
reception. The i)lace was crowded, and there was much 
cheering, a lovely bouquet for me, an address to I) and 
a drive through the crowd with four hor-cs to the Wind- 
sor Hotel, the bells of the town ringing out a welcome. 
We arc by way of opening this new hotel— the Wind- 
sor. It is a very fine one, and the Reception Committee 
were awaiting us in the gorgeous drawing-rooms- in 
reply to their words of introduction, I), told them that 
the humble rooms at Government House would not be 
able to contain him on his return. 

Our dinner was very good, but a long time being al- 
lowed for digestion between each course, we retired be- 
fore the pudding, and found Owen waiting to take the 
gentlemen on to a ball. 

Tucuhn\ i2th.-~\)., I, and a certain proportion of our 
party, lunched with Mr. McKay, a dear old gentleman 
who has spent his hard-earned wealth in building a great 
deaf-and-dumb institution, which he to-day presents to 
the City through the C.overnor (leneral. 

After lunch we drove to the Institution, our sleigh 
being escorted by a troop of cavalry. The building was 
ornamented with flags, and was full of people. There 
were prayers first, then addresses, and an inspection of 
the rooms. 



• My Kister-in-Uw (Mn. Rowan HamUton). 



J 



CH. XX 

any courtesies 

party, to stay 
only two left 

'arc!, who was 
Bierstadt and 

le son of the 

ith a splendid 
ere was much 
L'ss to I)., and 
■< to the Wind- 
It a welcome. 
;1— the Wind- 
)n Committee 
ij(-ro()ms; in 
Id them that 
vould not be 

me being al- 

e retired be- 

; to take the 

)rtion of our 
d gentleman 
Iding a great 
' presents to 

1, our sleigh 
l)uilding was 
iple. There 
ispection of 



FSB. 1878 



MONTREAL. 



403 



Afterwards we went to the Villa Maria Convent, 
where a very striking scene was presented to us. Turn- 
ing in from the cold and the daylight (it was a snow- 
stormy day), we found ourselves in a brilliantly-lighted 
room, full of young ladies, saw a gorgeous display of 
flowers, and heard sounds of music — " (iod save the 
Queen " played upon harjjs and pianos, and sung by nu- 
merous voices. All the girls wore black dresses for the 
Pope's death (Pius IX), but they had white lace bibs and 
cuffs, broad sashes of colored ribbon over the shoulder, 
and in their hands long sprays of artificial flowers. The 
hall is a very large one, and all along the walls were 
rows of girls; at the hxmX of the room a rising bank of 
the pupils, and in the center three platforms: on one the 
pianos, on the second five harps, and on the third, 1). 
and I. 

We had a good deal of music and six addresses- 
two in Fr.-nch and two in Fnglish, and two from little 
girls, who presented bouquets. 

When we got home we had to dress for dinner and 
a ball. The latter was given for us in a very fine dining- 
room in this hotel. There were 2.000 people at it, and 
it was in every way a success. We entered the room in 
a procession, and D. danced everything, while I "did" 
a few squares, and was introduced to numbers of ladies. 
Everything went merrily till 4.30 a. m., when we retired 
to bed. Katie* enjoyed this, her first ball, very much, 
and danced everything. 

Wednesday, ijth.—W'c went to M'Gill (\)llege, and at 
the gates the students met us and dragged us up to the 
door. Happily, no one was hurt, though these volun- 
teer horses were constantly falling, being dragged by 
the rope, and half driven over. 




404 



Afy CANADIAN JOURNAL 



jiiij 



CH. XX 

1 was taken up to the Hall, where I waited the arrival 
o the new LI.. 1,., f.r I), was down in the library hnnjr 
clo hed ,n cap and gcwn. The students soon lilled the 
hall completely, so that U was unpossible for His Ex to 
get through it, and he had to be brought bv a back stair 
and appeared through a trap-door on the platforn., where 
the learned sat. 

The address and reply were in (]reek, and I was 
listennig in a vacant manner, when I saw the Greek 
scholars smiling at me. and 1 found that the word 
Countess had been introduced into the harangue I 
came in for a share of glory also when the students pre- 
sented me with a very handsome silver bouquet-holller 
made on purpose for me, with Canadian and English' 
symbols the arms of the College, and an inscription 
engraved upon it. After a speech from the president, 
tl e new graduate signed the register, was handed his 
diploma, and was called upon for an address 

I suppose a learned and serious speech was expected ; 
but T). surprised his audience by a few light and airy 
sentences, and I don't think I ever heaixi him speak 
more ef ect.vely. He had not thought of anvthing'par- 
t.cular to say, and did not wish to enter into a serious 
speech about nothing; and. as it turned out, his in" 
promptu jokes were much better. I had one or two 

the' titatre'' "" "'^ '''"''"' ""^ "^''' ^'""" ''^ '''''' ^° 

The house was crammed, and presented a most brill- 

an spectacle. The piece was, in its way, unicpie, for 

^ ^^as made the excuse for a grand military display 

Th re were at least one hundred and sixty artillerymen 

on he^t'"'" ,' "'"'" "'"^'^"^^^ i" "rod, exhibited 
n Is age as about to embark for India. The steamer 
th Its funnel was ,n the background, the bands plny.d 
the regiments march. , on board; five horses at a time 



J 



CH. XX 

ted the arrival 
; lil)rary being 
ioon filled tlie 
for His Ex. to 
y a back stair, 
atforin, where 

s and I was 
w the Greek 
lat the word 
harangue. I 
students pre- 
iiqiiet-holder, 
and English 
II inscription 
lie president, 
^ handed his 
s. 

as expected ; 
:ht and airy 
i him sjieak 
nything par- 
ito a serious 
>iit, his im- 
one or two 
■ we went to 

1 most briil- 
tiniquc, for 
ary display, 
irtillerymen 
^1, e.xhibitcd 
"he steamer 
nds played, 
s at a time 



FE3. 1878 



MOXTREAL, 



405 



came on, one ridden, the others dragging the gun-car- 
nage. All was done in regular military fashion, and it 
made a splendid .scene. This was got up for us by the 
\olunteers,and it was most successful. We did not 
leave the theatre till midnight, and then were dragged 
by the snow-shoers of Montreal to the hotel. Our two- 
legged steeds wore a very picturesque costume, and were 
very lively horses and most cheery companions. "To 
bed, to bed, said Sleepy Head." 

Thursday, j^i/t.-W^ bad to leave early to drive a 
long way out to the Sacred iieart Convent. Jt is one 
of the most exclusive of the nunneries. When we got 
there we were received by the ladies, many of them very 
charming women. The I.ady Superi<,r is an Italian, and 
very clever and plea.sant. They gave us a cup of hot 
coffee, and then took us into the room where the chil- 
dren were assembled. It is a long, narrow room the 
walls covered with white and gold. At the far end of 
the room was a stage with rustic arbors on it and quan- 
tities of flowers, and on it was performed an original 
musical operetta, in whi( h all the flowers took part and 
which ended in the '• Rose " carrying a magnificent 
basket of flowers to his Ex.. each of her attendants 
holding a ribbon attached to it. 

When this was all over we were shown the house, 
and the fine chapel where the girls, with white veils 
thrown over their heads, marched two and two up the 
aisle, stopping for a second at the altar, and then on to 
their places, where they knelt, filling all the center part 
of the church, the colors of the painted windows lighting 
lip their white figures, and coloring them with a rainbow 
liRht, which looked very beautiful. The organ played, 
and there was some very good singing, the last thing 
bemg a sort of grace, for after leaving the chapel we 
went straight to lunch. There was a large party, and 






/I 



4o6 



A/y CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XX 







the nuns did the honors. They helped to wait upon us, 
and at tlie same time talked to us so pleasantly. 

Driving home, we went up the mountain — that is to 
i^ay, through Mount Royal I'ark. It is only just made. 
The road winds up to a great height, and the views from 
it are lovely. It will be a very beautiful drive to have 
so near a city. 

This evening there was the banquet, and I am sure 
no Governor of any kind jver received a more magnifi- 
cent ovation than this at the end of his term of office. 
The dinner was in the great ball-room. There was one 
long table down the side of the room, and ten others 
across, holding in all three hundred and fifty people. 
The first thing of which I can tell you from personal 
experience was my own entrance. I went in with my 
sisters and a few other ladies to hear the speeches. 
When I came in, every one stood up, most of them on 
their chairs, and cheered me for so long that, after ac- 
knowledging their greeting repeatedly, I sat down be- 
fore silence was restored. Sir Francis Hincks was the 
chairman, and of course the Queen's health came first, 
and was enthusiastically received. As a special compli- 
ment, D. ne.\t proposed the health of the President of 
the United States (Mr. Hayes), his son being present. 

The toast of the evening was the signal for most 
tremendous cheering— the gentlemen stood on their 
chairs, and waved handkerchiefs ; and when D. spoke, 
almost every sentence was followed by the greatest ap- 
plause, and all the amusing part by roars of laughter. 
Nothing could have gone off better or more brilliantly 
than this banquet did, and I wish I had lime to give 
you a better account of it. 

Friday, i^th.—W^ had to be at the Curling Rink at 
10.30 to play a great match— the Viceregal Club against 
the Three Rivers— lor the Caledonian medal. The game 



I. CH. XX 

wait upon us, 
isantly. 

tain — that is to 

[)iily just made. 

the views from 

drive to have 

and I am sure 

1 more magnifi- 
term of office. 
There was one 
md ten others 
d fifty people, 
from personal 
ent in with my 

the speeches, 
jst of them on 
that, after ac- 

sat down be- 
lincks was the 
1th came first, 
special compli- 
e President of 
;ing present, 
gnal for most 
:ood on their 
hen D. spoke, 
e greatest ap- 
•s of laughter. 
Dre brilliantly 

time to give 

rling Rink at 
1 Club against 
al. The game 



FEB. 1878 



OTTAiVA. 



407 

was an e.xceedingly close one, but alas ! we lost by one 
po.nt. The Rmk was beautifully decorated, eren the 
.ce being covered with designs; and our side plaved very 
well, though it was beaten. ' 

I skated for an hour, and hurried home to lunch 
and to dress for a reception we had at three 'Ihat 
over, 1 had the Chief Justice to tea, and then got ready 
for a dinner. In the evening we opened an exhibition 
of pictures of the Art .Vssociation of Montreal, and D 
announced that Mr. Jiierstadt was going to present the 
Society with a picture. The hall of the hotel, in which 
the exhibition was held, is an immense ,,lace with a 
marble lloor, and looked very splendid, filled as it was 
with gayly-dressed company. .Some of the princloal 
people came to our room afterwards. 

Saturday, /^M._Our week of ovation is over, ana 
this morning we started for home. Gwen and her dear 
little baby came to breakfast, and at ten we were off, 
hrst of all to visit an iiuiia-rubber manufactory and a 
cotton manufactory, and then to the station, where there 
was an address. 

On the way to Ottawa, by a new line of railway D 
had at least one address at every station, sometimes 
three-and I generally got a lovely bouquet We were 
very kind!y, and indeed affectionately, received every- 
where, and the whole country seemed to turn out to 
greet us. A number of gentlemen came part of the way 
home with us. Lady Sykes and her brother are staying 
here. ^ * 

I thought it best to finish the happy part of my 
Journal first; but there has been a drawback to my 
pleasure in the week. While D. was dining on 1 r.daj- 
and just before I went in to hear the speeches, I received 
a telegram to say that Basii had scarlet fever. He is 
going on extremely well, but of course I shall be very 
27 ' 



m ! 





408 



A/y CAXADIAN JOU/iXAL. 



CH. XX 



anxious until I know whether this horrid disease spreads. 
'I'hc other children are separated, but they were with 
hini when he first fell ill. His room is in the center of 
the house, and the iscdation is not as perfect as I could 
wi>h. Here we are, with Cis in bed, Mr. Ward laid up 
with a broken leg, sea let fever in the house, and visitors 
on the top of all this who " are not in the least afraid." 
Katie remained at Montreal with Clwen . 

Ikit for these domestic misfortunes our week at 
Montreal would have been an uncpialified pleasure. We 
found everywhere so much personal affection and kind- 
ness, and were in every way so magnificently received, 
that nothing could have been more delightful tlian it 
was. 

Monday, March 4th. — Mr. Harvey * dined with us, and 
we had music in the evening. Russell and he played the 
violin, and Mr. J. P. Ward sang the " Lost Chord " to us. 
He has a most beautiful tenor voice. He has only just 
recovered from the tobogganing accident. 

Sunday, lotli. — Mr. Ward fell ill to-day, but we were 
not at all alarmed about him till the evening, when the 
doctor told us his illness was most serious, and that there 
was no hope. He was told so, too, and immediately 
settled all his affairs and wrote a letter. I went to 
see him in the evening. He was perfectly calm and 
happy. 

Tuesday, 12th. — Mr. Ward passed away this afternoon, 
having lingered all Monday, exhibiting always the most 
wonderful patience, resignation, and thoughtfulness for 
others. I was with him when he died ; Fred Ward sel- 
dom left him. The anxiety was terrible, for on Monday 
afternoon we were given a ray of hope, soon to be de- 
stroyed again. 



* Of Ickwellbury. 



L. CH. XX 

disease spreads, 
they were witli 
in the center of 
rfect as I cuuld 
. Ward laid up 
.ise, and visitors 
e least afraid." 

i our week at 
jileasure. We 
[tion and kind- 
ently received, 
ightful tiian it 

led with us, and 
d he played the 
: Chord " to us. 
e has only just 

y, but we were 
n.ing, when the 
and that there 
d immediately 
it. I went to 
:ctly calm and 

this afternoon, 
Iways the most 
ightfulness for 
""red Ward sel- 
'or on Monday 
soon to be de- 



AHRIL 1878 



OTTA IVA. 



409 



T/iurufay, 14th. — He was buried early in the morning; 
none went to the funeral but those who knew him, and 
had been with him here. He was a very great favorite 
with us all, and this has been a great sorrow to us. 

Tuesday, April 2d. — We put off our farewell gayeties 
as long as we could, but to-day we resume our social 
duties. I spent the day nursing my voice, driving out, 
and looking over my parts; at six we dined, and our 
plays began at a (juarter to eight. 

"Sweethearts" came first, th;ii ''I^cw Men and Old 
Acres " ; and at the end an epi) -gue — .1 larewell L). had 
written for me to speak. No o le knew anything about 
it, not even my fellow-actors, so rhat it v ..s a great sur- 
prise. The worst of it was, that it aUe the audience so 
melancholy that the evening ended tearfully. 

Thursday, .////.— Gwen, Russell, the Baby, and Miss 
Abbott arrived. Muriel is very pretty, and a dear little 
thing in every way. 

Friday, j//;.— Our last play here. We had an enor- 
mous audience, and both " Sweethearts " and " New 
Men " and the epilogue were greatly appreciated. They 
certainly went off well, and every one was delighted ; but 
all were sad to think that we were having our last party 
here, and I know I feel miserable about it. 

Monday, c?///.— Fred Ward left for England— a signal 
of our approaching departure, for we shall have left this 
when he returns to Canada. I hate these symptom? - f 
our waning existence here, I have enjoyed it all so much. 
His departure makes also the first break in what has been 
a very happy fainily party. 

Saturday, ijth. — In the morning we drove into Ot- 
tawa to see an enormous map of Canada, prepared for 
the Paris Exhibition. We also looked at models of the 
Welland Canal, 

Hearing that the House had been sitting all night, 




u 



iJiiii 




410 



A/y CAXADIAX JOUKXAL. 



CH. XX 



and was likely to sit all day, we determined to come in 
again in the afternoon to hear what was going on. 

The Opposition were talking against time, to pre- 
vent a division being taken about some Quebec affairs 
(the Governor having dismissed his Ministers) until Mon- 
day, as the political meetings among the French are 
generally after Mass on Sunday, and they did not wish 
to have the defeat of their motion announced to the 
congregations. 

Last night there were singing and cock-crowing and 
all sorts of nois(;.s, and when Mr. IMumb was siieaking 
another member got up and said he was interrupting the 
music. When we went— Gwen and I, Mrs. Littleton, 
and the Colonel— a Member was speaking, merely to fdl 
up the time. He read out of a book, and gave us the 
title in full several times, and said it belonged to "his 
hon. friend the Member for Niagara"; and then, when 
noise was made, he said he feared hon. members had not 
heard, and so he would repeat what he had been saying 
or reading. Singing began— " Auld Lang Syne," " En 
roulant ma bonle "—cock-crowing, and all sorts of noises 
and fun, while the entertainment— as far as I heard it- 
ended with the ^L'lrs(■llaisc, beautifully sung by a musical 
M. P. When I got up to go. what do you think hap- 
pened ?— the whole House, both sides, stood up and sang 
"God save the Queen," and then cheered. Of course I 
got out as quickly as I could. We were told afterwards 
that we had been as "sugar" to the House; that they 
were just getting very cross when wt came in, and that 
our presence put them in a good humor— very good 
humor, as you may perceive. They were expecting to 
sit all night, but at si.\ Mr. Mackenzie consented to ad- 
journ, on condition that the division should be taken 
early on Monday. 

We had a Parliamentary dinner that night, so when 



CH. XX 

led to come in 
oing on. 
time, to pre- 
Qiiebec affairs 
Ts) until Mon- 
e French are 
y did not wish 
junced to the 

:-crowinj; and 
was speaking 
:erriipting the 
[rs. Littleton, 
merely to fdl 
i gave us the 
nged to " his 
k1 then, when 
ibers had not 
1 been saying 

Syne," " En 
orts of noises 
i I heard it — 
■ by a musical 
•u think hap- 
I up and sang 

Of course I 
d afterwards 
e; that they 

in, and that 
— very good 
expecting to 
ented to ad- 
Id be taken 

iht, so when 



APRIL 1878 



FA RE WELL ADDRESSES. 



4" 



I 



be able t 



was in the House I instituted in(]uiri 



o com 



me. 



Thirt 



es as to who would 
e. On my return a telegram followed 



y will not be able to dine 



Imner moved into the small d 



so I had tl 



le 



from fort 



y to sixteen. Soon after another 



iiiing-room, and cut down 



mej 



-iessage came 

to say the House had adjourned, which was agitating- 
but only thirteen guests arrived, so our table was al' 
right. We had a pleasant little dinner— Mr Macphe - 
son, Mr. Campbell, Mr. Ikinston, Mr. Odell, and the old 
Mr. Glasier. who went awav from our theatricals •• be- 
cause he did not come all the way down here to see a 
h)t of love-makmg." Mr. Ryan an<l the Deputy Sergr Mit- 
at-Arms, Major Smith, were also there. 

Tuesday, i6t/,.~l). received the address presented to 
him by both Houses of Parliament. We-Gwen Nellie 
and I-went to the Senate Chamber, where our scats 
were just in front of the Throne, Ministers' wives, etc 
behind. I found it a very melancholy ceremony, and it 
gave me a nervous headache. 

Afomiay, 22,/.— Wi^ began our last fortnight of gay. 
eties. (Iwen and Russell * are alroadv here, and Miss 
Abbott and Miss Scott arrived to take part in two con- 
certs. Miss Abbott has stayd with us before, and is 
very nice, and a great musician. Miss Scott is very 
pretty and nice, and sings and plays well. They both 
live in Montreal 

We also began to say "farewell." I), and I went 
into town, and in the Supreme Court spent an hour and 
a half, saying goodby to the members and senators 
Mr, Kimber and Mr. Fleming dined with us, and we had 
music in the evening. 

UW„r.u/ay. 24f/i.—\\c had our last " Good-by " at the 
Supreme Court ; and in the evening we had our last big 



Ml 



¥\ 



Mr. ind Mr», RiuwH Stephenson. 



SS*to**te,, 



J 



V. 



B » 



H 






412 



AfV CAXAD/AX JOURNAL. 



CH. XX 



dinner. The table formed three sides of a square, and 
we had over seventy people. After the ladies left the 
room a senator (Mr. Vida!) <go\. up and proposed my 
health; he sent round to ask I). i( he might, and he did 
not lilce to refuse. We had si''f,Mnjf after dinner, and 
I'>cd told us, when he saw the party off, they were de- 
lighted with their evening. They said they had left a 
man in the Mouse to talk against time, and had prom- 
ised to he back at nine ; but they did not leave till 
10.30. 

Fn\/ay, 26th. — In the evening we went to sec C har- 
lotte Thompson in " Jane Eyre." She is not a handsome 
woman, hut so good an actress th-t she makes you (pute 
forget her face. Her voice is very pretty. 

Siiturddv, 2jth. — (;ur concert took place this after- 
noon, and was most successful. The music was really 
lovely, and people seemed delighted. In the evening 
we went to see Miss Multon (" East Lynne "). 

Tuesday, joth. — I have organized .t l)azaar incur ten- 
nis-court to pay off the del)t on our little church, and wc 
began to arrange it. The carpenters put up the shields 
on the walls of the tennis-court and set the tables. We 
carried down all the things, and some ladies from New 
I'-dinburgh came to help, so that when we locked up for 
the evening everything was ready, and extremely pretty 
it all looked. 

Wednesday, M,ty /,v/._Will the weather be fine ? That 
is what we are an.xious about; it pours all the morning. 
I), is arranging a I'icture-dallery in the ball-room, to 
which the jjublic will be admitted upon payment t)f 35 
cents. Every p.-nting, water-color, engravingor photo- 
graph which we possess, whether in a book, a portfolio, 
or a frame, is exhibited here, and in addition we have 
borrowed two very Hne paintings of Mr. (lilmour's. An 
orange ticket, 35 cents, admits the juveniles of Ottawa, 



CH. XX 

f a pqiiare, and 
; ladies left the 
J proposed my 
;ht, and he did 
;cr dinner, and 

they were dc- 
they had left a 
ind had prom- 

not leave till 

t to sec C har- 
lot a handsome 
akes you rjnite 

ice this after- 
sic was really 
n the evening 

e"). 

aar in our ten- 
;'hurrh, and we 
up the shields 
le tables. We 
ies from New 
locked up for 
tremely pretty 

l)efino? That 
1 the morninjf. 
hall-room, to 
laynicnt of 25 
^viuj^or piioto- 
)k, a portfolio, 
ition we have 
iilmour's. An 
ies of Ottawa, 



MAY 1878 



J^AXCy fi.'IZAAF. 



413 



and many of the old people too, to the mysteries of 
•'Punch and Judy." which Mr. D-xon and Mr. JJrodie 
perform most adnurably. 

We were putting finishing touches to ourselves and 
to the tables till the last moment, and happilv the rain 
cleared elf, and the afternoon was lovely. In the garden 
we had the Guards' band, and a large "tin full of small 
parcels tied up with string. Near this stood two lovely 
ladies (Miss Grifhn and Miss Scott), w; h fishing-rods in 
their hands; for ten cents you were allowed to try your 
luck— that is, to take the rod and fish for aparcel.'and 
this became so popular an amusement, both for oid and 
young, that it went on all three afternoons, and made 
much money. 

Miss Mary Mardonald Fold flowers, and various young 
ladies had raffle-papers to fill up. Miss Macdona'.d and 
Nellie had the principal stall, and I was kept busy at my 
table answering questions, seeing to raffles, etc. ' There 
was so brilliant an account of the first performance of 
" Punch and Judy," that I went to see the second ; but I 
had not been long i., the room wh-n I heard some one 
say, "There is a fire!" And we did have a marvelous 
escape. 

A smell of gas, a lighted candle—and flames appeared 
through the lloor ! Mothers shrieked ; but in a few sec- 
onds the hose [-.ut out the flames, and no damage oc- 
curred, except to the unfortunate author of the disaster, 
the man with the candle, who burned his hand. In the 
confusion a lady threw her arms round Fred, and said : 
"Oh my children! my children! my husband is in the 
Public Works Department; what shall 1 do?" etc.. etc. 

The buying and selling, the music, the raffles, the tea, 
the fishpond, all go on merrily. 

Friiiay, .?//.— The weather was bad yesterday, and we 
had to keep indoors, which was a great loss to our pockets. 



414 



Af V CA .VA n/.i X JO Uf;XA L. 



CH. XX 



\f\ 



Botli Wecinesd 



av 



though I don't think I eve 



and yesterday I enjoyed very much, 



found it im|)ossible, from m 



r was so busy in mv life, for I 



attention off bazaar business f 
day was harder work, and not 
raffle all the thi- 



orning till night, to tak 



e mv 



or one moment. The third 
so amusing. We had to 



s, and fewer people came, and it was 



wet; but at the end ve had an auction fo 
hour, which at -used people nuch. 



r aiM-.'it an 



It, 



The thing was a gr.at success. Everybod 
and instead of my modest anticipations of makinirWoo 



y enjoyed 



I think we shall clear more th 



they had never been t 



an $2,000. Kverv 



one >aid 



o so honesi or so pleasant a ba 



zaar. 



and they proved theii sincerity by coming every da. 
while it was open. 

I am going to pay off the debt on our church (for 

give the surplus, 



which I got up the bazaar), and shall 

and the things left, to tlie Protestant Orphan Asyl 

Ottaw-i, which is very badly off. 

Thursday, j?/"//.— Parliament was prorogued to-d 



urn in 



Fn'tfiiw rrt/i. — Thi 



ay. 

s mornuig we had an exhibition of 



the i)hon()graph. Two men brought th 



vention for us to see. It is (juite 



is wonderful fn- 



dt r which you turn with a hand I 



a small tiling, a cvl 



in- 



e, and which you place 



on a common table. 

We were so amazed whei 
iron speak that it was bar' to Relieve there was no 



we first heard this bit of 



trick! Hut we all tried it. I- cl 



I), made it talk (Ireek, the Colonel 



sang "Old Obadiah, 



ang a French song, 



and all our vocal efforts were repeated. As long as th 
same piece of tinfoil is kept on the instrument you can 
hear all you have said over and over again ; anil the in- 
ventor will soon have completed a flat instrument. 



hich 



in 



you will be able to put in old sayings of yours, or 
of others, and hear them again. You may imagine how 
susceptibic the needie is when I tell you that the first 



L. 



CH. XX 



MAY l«78 



THE GEXERA!. HOSr/TAr.. 



4t5 



1^ 



t)yed very much, 
in my lit'e, for I 
slit, to take my 
itnt. The third 
ig. We had to 
ime, and it was 
n for aijont an 

ybody enjoyed 
of makins$6oo, 
Kvcry one .-aid 
t-asant a bazaar, 
ling every day 

ur church (for 
t'e the surplus, 
ihan Asylum in 

gued to-day. 
1 exhibition of 
wonderful in- 
tliing, a cyiin- 
lich you place 

ird this bit of 
there was no 

)ld ()l)adiah," 
I I'rcnch song, 
Vs long as the 
ment you can 
1 ; and the m- 
instrument, in 
[s of yours, or 
' imagine how 

that the first 



time that D. spoke into the machine he spoke too loud, 
and tore the tinfoil. The last performance was for 
I), to say something which should be repeated by the 
machine to a public e.xhibiiion in Ottawa in the evening. 
When I), had fmished, it was repeated to us (by the 
machine), and was, we hope, again delivered with good 
effect in the evening. 

We are scattering for a few days. Nelly goes to 
Niagara with the Littletons. To-morrow morning D. 
goes to Toronto for an exhibition c^f pictures, and I to 
spend a week with Clwen at Montreal. Then we all 
meet at Montreal for a Review on the (Queen's birthday. 

'I"he house is full of packing-cases, and everything 
bare and miserable-looking, and I am very glad of a 
rest and a holiday. 

Montreal : Monday, 2o//i.—ln the afternoon Gwen 
and I walked to the General Hospital, where the Grey 
Nuns have old people, orphans, and foundlings. Wo 
went over the whole institution, which took us fully two 
hours, and were very graciously received by the Sisters. 
They admitted us to the cloistered parts, and we saw 
their foundress lying in state Her body is covered 
with wax, and the sight is not at all ^rhastly— if you 
could think it was only a wax figure. 'I'he superior 
gave me a very handsome book, a biography of the 
foundresi. 

'I'he Hospital will be enormous when the l)uilding is 
finished ; it now holds over 700 inmates. 

riiutsday, 2j(/. — ll., Fred. Colonel Littleton, and Dr. 
Grant reached Montreal this evening, and came up to 
tea at Gwen's liouse. 

/>/(/</ V, .v/^'— The Queen's Birthdav. a most suc- 
cessful day. The weather was exactly suited to the 
occasion : not too hot, not di!.«itv. not wet. but b!i<?h 
and sunshiny. The Review began at 11.30, and Gwen. 



-tfy ^i ii Mt". ' J ».i. 












■1 


n, 


4 


It 





1 
i 



4if-" 



MV CAXAD/AX JOURXAL. 



<~H. XX 



R ssell.anrl I drove up to the (Irand Stand at that t,m. 
Ihe roads were full of carriages and people waik^n^' 
and the effect was quite Derby-like. I n^ve saw su. h';' 
crowd ,n Canada The f,e,d, the tree, the .de i.rlh 
mountain were covered w,th spectators, well-dressed 
smart look.ng people, and all ,n the best ^f hulrr ' 
There were about 3,00c froops, :.,ui the Governor, 
General and h.s '.brilliant S,aif - rode down the ranks 
stopping opposite to a company of U„ii.d States Vo ' 
mneers. who b.d ...e to take part in the procccdin; ' 
to^mako a htt.e speech, welcoming thenA. ranaS,' 

followed. I..vorybo,Iy was delighted with evervthin.r 
and what cou.dvonwi.h for more' The horses, S 

by he Ma,l..d those m the carnages behaved ad^ 
ab y. though Gwen and I never could get up a pc e t 
fa.th m ours. .:,nd were much alarmed bv the banSs ,nd 
tne squdxs. which were to be heard at in'tervals ' 

ye next hurrie.I through a little lunch, and pr,,- 
ceecled ,0 the Lacrosse ground. I), .-as ther pre eiUed 

- anaddressanda..crosse/^.ndwe.sawu.:: V 
P'-ey, games. Then we rushed back to the hotel to 
Irop I . f„r a great military l,anquet. which began at 
hotH t T '-'t C-vcn-s house, and returned to the 
hote, to pick up the gentlemen on our way to the the- 

^cd ,n. It was a very pretty sight, all the guests 
being ni uniform. 

„,„*','"?''''■•'■:"'-"■'""' ' l<-" M„„tre,-,l ,-,1 , A. „ and 
> I. t "l..nd ri,„e,„„ a.,d D,-. G..,„ ,,J„^^ ,„ J .' 

say Good-by ; and as the day was lovdy we sat ou- 
on the grnss. It was very hard to say •• Good-by " tc 



z. 



CH. XX 



tnd at that 'imp. 
people waikinp,, 
ever saw siu h a 
the !,ide of the 
■s, wril-dress'-i. 

of humors. 

the Governor- 
own the ranks, 
"cl States Voi- 
le proceedings, 
-m 1. Canada, 

a sham battle 
ith everythin|r, 
3 horses , Iddcn 
behaved admi- 
-t up a pc, feet 
the bands, and 
rvals. 

nrh, and prn- 
liere presented 
saw two very 
' tlu' Iu)tel to 
lic-h l)ejL:an at 

iirncd to the 
ly to the the- 
went up and 
ill the guests 

at 9 A. M. and 
■ urned to Ot- 

It home" to 
ly we sat cut 
od-by " tr .: 



MAV 1S78 



FARElVEI.r. TO OTTAIVA. 



41: 



many kind friends. I h 
to go through. 



ave two more of these farewells 



Sunda\\ 2d. — We 



last time, and in the aft 
Nellie, Freddie, and Vict 
the stone put up to J. P. Ward 



ent to our little church for tl 



If 



ernoon I), and I drove with 
oria to the ( "emetcrv, to sec 



Irisli cross. O 



s mcmorv. 



It 



is a small 



n our return we f(nMul Dr. (Iraiif he 



can't bear to say " Good-by," and 
every day. 

Thursdav, 6th. — \\ 



comes here 



ncarlv 



e went into town, where an ad- 



icre was a 



dress was pre.sented at the Town Hall. 11.. _ 
large guard of honor and crowds of i)eople. Th 
building is a new one, with a fine hall, wh 



received. 



ere we were 



The Mayor read the add 



ress, and when that and tht 
answer were over we shook hands with all th 



e people 

who liked to come up. Then we went out on the bal- 
cony, and an alarm of fire was sounded, that we might 
see the engines at work. 

D. then addressed the guard of honor (Governor- 
General's Foot Guards), and we drove away amidst !..ii.l 
cheers. We were shown a full-length picture of I) 
excellent likeness, painted bv order of the Gov 



an 



for the Parliament Jiuildings. 

I am sure I have told you before h 



ernment 



ow much Fred is 



liked here, and what a popular A. I). ('. he has 1 
Well, as a proof of their ai)preciation of his unfail 
kindi 



)een. 



ini 



less and courtesy during the last 



SIX vears. 



Canadian friends have presented him with a hand 



us 



sil 



ccdented honor ! 



some 



ver tray, teapot, urn, cream-jug, etc.— quite an unpre- 



Fn'diiv, yth. — T oft Ott 



awa, 



and be at the boat bv 



*e had to get up early 



seven. It was trying; first we 



had to say goodby to all the people about our house, 
and then at the wharf we found many friends. The 



•^ #, 



4i8 



MY CAXADIAX JOIRXAL. 



CH. XX 



• I ; f 



!| I 




large guard of honor was d 



rawr 



'" "P on the top of the 
chff, and at the water's edge were the friends. 

A number of young men— the bachelors— were wait- 
ing for me on board with a bouquet and silver holder • 
then the ship began slowly to move awav, and there 
were long cheers and waving of handkerchiefs till we 
were out of sight. Ottawa looked lovclv as we left 
and never shall we forget our happy six years here and 
our innumerable friends. 

We had to change at Grenville into a train, and there 
say a few more good-bys. After half an hour we got 
mto another steamer, which took us to Montreal At 
several of the small places we passed, crowds had col- 
lected to give us a parting cheer. At Montreal the 
steamer was full of people, all come to say good-by 
and to see an address presented. This was from the 
Curlers, and with it was given a beautiful colored photo- 
graph, with a view of Montreal, and portraits of our- 
selves and many other people we know. It is an oil 
picture, and is a most charming remembrance D re- 
pi.ed; but in the middle of the ceremony the galleries 
began to creak, and the crowd had to get out of them 
(luickly. 

Saturday^ cf///.— Up very early to see the children ofT 
to England. We breakfasted on board the Quebec 
steamer, and went in a tender to the Allan s s Scandi- 
navian. The Bishop and Mr. Dobell are on board and 
It was a lovely day for starting ; but it was very sad see- 
ing all our flock go-and now we have half left Canada 

Dufferin and I, Mr. Reynolds and Mrs. Littleton went 
on board the Druid, and are now on our way to Gaspd • 
but we shall not be ourselves till we have slept upon all 
the partings of the last two days. It has been so de- 
lightful in Canada, and never again, I fear, can we hone 
to be surrounded by so many true and kind friends. 



CH. XX 



the top of the 
ends. 

)rs — were wait- 
I silver holder ; 
'^'ay, and there 
'rchiefs till we 
?ly as we left, 
years here and 

rain, and there 
1 hour we got 
Montreal. At 
owds had col- 
Montreal the 
say good-by, 
was from the 
:olored photo- 
traits of our- 
It is an oil 
ance. D. re- 
the galleries 
out of them 

e children off 
the Quebec 
1 s. s. Scandi- 
•n board, and 
very sad see- 
left Canada, 
ttleton, went 
ly to Gasp^ ; 
lept upon all 
> been so de- 
can we hone 
friends. 



CHAPTER XXr. 

THE KASTERN TOWXSH.PS AND LAST I.AVS IN CANADA. 

Tuesday, June /////.-Everything we do now seems to 
be mipressed with that horrid word " last " • here we are 
at (lasp^ for the last time, enjoying our iast f.shing, 
cru.sing for the last time in the old Druui, and mentally 
saying "good-by " to many a pleasant thing which has 
become a habit to us during the past six years 

VVe arrived early in the morning, and even before 
breakfast there was an evident e.vcitement on deck and 
I could hear through my skylight as I dressed "yarns" 
of the forty-pounder the Colonel had lost, and of the 
smaller fry he and Sir F. Graham * have killed I elected 
to remam at home to-day, but Mrs. Littleton went with 
Mr. Reynolds to stay a few days with him, and to join 
her husband on the York. 

Fred and D. went to the lower pools of our river, 
which they can fish from the Druici. 

I am left in possession of " Tinker," Fred's devoted 
fox-terrier. No blandishments of mine affect him- he 
chooses to sit in sackcloth an J ashes until his master's 
return; he shivers in the ante-room, will not be warmed 
by my fire; will not even eat the mutton-chop I present 
him with, and makes me feel rather small at my signal 
failure to gain his confidence. 



1:1 




420 



A/y CAXAD/A.V JOURXAL. 



CM. XXI 



H 



U'ednesdiiv. ist/i.— R,;: u all night, the river rising. 
And— as I tci, the gentlemen to cheer them— there are 
fourteen h,.'irs to be spent in doing nothing! I divide 
my day into hours of eating, working, reading, writing, 
and walking on deck. So I hope to answer all my let- 
ters, to braid Victoria an elaborate ' . '., and to be well 
read in the history of theA\^f of Independence before I 
go to Boston. 

'i'he afternoon was fine, and I), sketched, and some 
vtrv important telegrams came. I had a cipher one to 
do, which took me two hours and a half, and that made 
a hole in the fourteen! There is a riot at Quebec; the 
soldiers out, the ringleader shot, and many people 
Wounded. 

The Littletons arrived when we were at dinner, and 
we spent a pleasant evening hearing of their adventures 
and playing whist. Sir Frederick remains with Mr. Rey- 
nolds. 

Thursday, /j///.— The steamer which was to take the 
Littletons uvay arrived unexpectedly at 5 a. m., and they 
had to pack aiid go off at once. 

1). and Fred went out fishing, and brought home only 
one salmon eai h ; Fred's wa-. a beauty, weighing 29 lbs. 

When D. came home he settled for us u) go up to the 
bush, as the fish have left the 'ower part of the river. 
This was just .: "ngev , when got a telegram from 
Quebec asking him to have a British regiment sent 
there, so D. thinks He had better return at once. The 
fires are lighted, coal taken o.\ board, and by two 
o'clock in the night we are off. CJreat \\\\\ be the d:,c.p- 
l)ointment to the men we employ '- ■ c when they come 
in the morning and find u^ --one. Btfore starting we 
sent off numbers of tele.!-/ s id the clerk of the 
office said his "head felt v. bai He seldom has so 
much work to do at quiet Gu.pc. 



L. en. XXI 

he river rising, 
hem — there are 
hing! I divide 
eading, writing, 
iwer all my let- 
, and to be well 
ndence beiore I 

ched, and some 
"x cipher one to 
and that made 
at Quebec; the 
many people 

; at dinner, and 
leir adventures, 
; with Mr. Rey- 

vas to take the 
A.M., and they 

ight home only 
eighing 29 lbs, 
-o go up to the 
irt of the river, 
telegram from 
regiment sent 
at once. The 
, aud by two 
I be the d;,^p- 
len they come 
re starting we 
; clerk of the 
seldom has so 



JUNE 1878 



QVLBEC. 



^21 



gl' 



Friday, /^///.— Such lovel 



y weather, the sea lik 



lass, and covered with fishing boats. We stopped liid 
bought over sixty cod, some of them very large, for two 
dollars. 

Saturday, /j///.-At Father Point we received a tele- 
gram from Dent to say tiuit all our rooms were filled 
with soldiers, beds on the floors, etc. We made up our 
mmds to stay on the Druid. 

Sunday, i6//,.~\\c found on our arrival at Ouebec 
this morning that most of the soldiers had left.^so we 
went up there and found everyll ;g tidy again. There 
IS still one regiment here, and the officers are filling the 
rooms we intended for Gwen. 

Dent had to provide for sixty officers-give them 
blankets, towels, etc.; so I don't know what they 
would have done if she had not been here. She kept 
uem .n great order, too, and insisted upon their replac- 
>n-r a pillow which had come to grief in a bolstering 
m. , h. "^ 

\\< had an escort of cavalry to come up to the (Ita- 
del i.n. Everything seems quiet for the present 

he not. J lay was muggy and wet, and in the uLdU 
there was a severe thunderstorm 

Monday, /,v/,._D. was very busy all day, and in the 
evening we duK-d at the Lieutenant-Governor's. I sa! 
between him and M. Joly, the Prime Minister; and on 

Jeat'd : °' I'" "^^ ' P'"^^^"^ "^^"- '^''-^ talk d 
a great deal, and were very amusing. It was a large 

d.nner. Ue had the military chiefs who distinguished 
themselves in the riot, Su N'arcisse Belleau. Mr. Irvme 
and several more of the political celebrities here 

li^ednaday, /pM._There was a review of "the 8th 
.J A f--'''''^ "" ^"^ i^^^planade. It was fine and 

sunny, and the r. iment gave great satisfaction to the 



I ' i *■■ 



in 



t ■ 







t 




422 



My CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH XXI 



on 



military lookers-on. I), complimented them, and 
their return to barracks they were disbanded. 

Thursday, 20th -We had a very pleasant expedition 
to-day. Starting in the Druid about lunch-time we 
went over to the Island of Orleans, where we drove'in a 
carnage lent to us by a " Habuan." The views from 
the island are lovely. 

Friday, 2ist.~\\^ slept on board and started early in 
the morning, reaching St. John, a town at the other end 
of the island, by breakfast-time. We were not expected 
there, but the Druid was seen in the distance, and by the 
time we landed every cottage had hoisted a flag or a 
tablecloth, and people were at every door bowing and 
smding. 

-\fter out drive round this end of this pretty island 
we found more preparations had been made: two men 
had got themselves into red tunics, and seven or eight 
young ladies had guns, and fired an impromptu and 
amateur feu de joic. They also had bouquets ready for 
us, tied with white ribbon ; mine had written upon it 
" For Lady Dufferin, in remembrance of her visit to 
St. John." The cur^ said if he had only known before 
we should have had all the country-people in to greet us. 
Quebec: Saturday, 22d.—A\. three o'clock we went to 
the House of Parliament, where addresses were pre- 
sented to I), on his approaching departure ; he replied 
and both addresses were read in French and English' 
The room was very full, every one having come to see 
the ceremony. The speeches in Parliament upon the 
address were extremely flattering, and, coming from 
both sides of the House, are very gratifying. 

Sunday, 2jd.—\\e had some diflRculty in arranging 
our journey to Boston-to which city D. has been in- 
yited in order to receive a Doctor's degree from the 
University oi Harvard-so as to arrive there on Men- 



L. 



CH XXI 



tliein, and on 
ded. 

sant expedition 
lunch-time, we 
; we drove in a 
["he views from 

started early in 
t the other end 
e not expected 
nee, and by the 
ted a flag or a 
or bowing and 



. pretty island, 
ade : two men 
seven or eight 
npromptu and 
I nets ready for 
ritten upon it 
f her visit to 
known before, 

in to greet us. 
"k we went to 
ses were pre- 
e ; he replied, 

and English. 
% come to see 
ent upon the 

coming from 

in arranging 

has been in- 

ree from the 

here on Men- 





LADV DUFKEKIN. 




JUNE 1878 



B0S7 0.V. 




:.fyt 



4-3 

'lay; It would take lwcnty-fn„r hours, an.l tlK-rc wctc 
""trams on Sunday. U . talkcl of .Mnn;: up to Mont- 
real .n tlK.. yjna,/, but as that u.uld hav. , ost the 
(-vc.rnnK.nf /:,oo. wc ^avc .,,. the ulra ; and yntuv uas 
rewarded, .or the mail steamer arr.vn.,. an express 
l.au) had immediately to be sent oil. So u. hnished our 
I'ack.n,,- and went in that. |.. and I ha.l an exeellent 
"'«IU in thetran,,and reaelud Montreal at.Mv in the 
mormnjr. 

JAW,,,., .v//,._n, ,.^,,,,1 ,^^,^i„ ^,^ ,,j,^^, ^^_^ ^^^^^ 

to l)OSt(Jll. ^ 

The railway passes through a i nelv <ountrv -rivers 
and mountains and fertile valleys-and we a;riv<.,i at 
.n.ston late in the evenin,.. We were met at the station 
l.y Mr. W.nthrop. who had just been assi.stinj,^ at rather 
a n.elanrholy dinner-a gathering of the survivors of 
iHselass at ndlet^e llfty years ago ; the heavy hand of 
lime had of course committed fearful ravages m the 
l-alf-century, and I only wonder anvbodv was al,le to 
lime at all. 

He dr. ve us out to Iplands, which is about a .piarter 
of an hoar from Boston, in a suburb called Il-ookline 
Our ho.sfs family con.sists of Mrs. \Vintlu.,p, his daugh-' 
t-r. and an invalid daughter of Mrs. U inthroi.'s. We 
hud tea, and were then glad to go to bed. 

r//rj</,nw,-///, — Immediateiv after bieakfast there 
were prayers in the hall, win. h is long and narr..w g.ung 
right through the house, with a door at ea, h en.l int.. 
tlu- grounds. The walls are wooden, and , ..vered with 
PKl'ires; there are tables, b.mks, bnst.s. an.l br..nzes 
about, and it makes a very nice sitting-r.,.,m. On one 
Hde isthedining-n.om. an.l on the other the drawing- 
room, and another small mom. 

At eleven we went (or a drive in the neighbf)rho,.d- 
a very pretty neighborhood it is-villa after villa sur- 
38 



J? 



? 1 



m 



lyi 



fit 



'' ( 



li 
J' 



;' 'f 







424 



J/r CAXAD/AX JOURXAL. 



cn. vxi 



rounded hy plots of ;rr;iss and i^^irdcns open to the 
road. 'Mien we hinclied, and then came what I call 
the American part of the day. I hail had an idea of 
sitting; out in the j^arden anil of walkinjr in the j^roinuls ; 
hut as I came out of the dininj;-ro(»m I was told that 1 
must rest, and tlial dniner was at six. I was led there- 
lore ui> to my room, ajrain reminded of the dinner-hour, 
and shut up there for the remainder of the day. Hav- 
ing a nice book, I reconciled myself to this un-KnglisU 
way of spendinj^ the afternoon. 

At dinner I sat between Mr. Winthrop and 



T,()nj;fcIlow, with Mr. Dana on the oti 



Mr 
im 



ler side of h 
Wendell Homes and Mr. I'arkman oi)posite ; the (lov- 
ernor of the State, the Chief Justice, Mrs. Amory Mrs 
M 



ason (formerly Sumner's wife), .Mrs. I'erki 



ns, our- 



selves, and younjf Mrs. Winthrop, formed tiie part} 

In the eveniiijif there was a reception, an 
number of dislmjruished people. 



(1 we saw a 



/ / \'(fnt'Si/(i\\ 26 tit. — Til 



IS niorniiiH- I), drove with ai 



officer in a carriajje-and-four to the State House, where 
he met the C.overnor, and at ten went with him, escorted 
by lancers, to the College (Harvard). 



We ladies did not leave the house till ten, and tl 



len 



some the- 



went to Harvard, and took our seats in a hand 

atre, immediately opposite to the platform, where all the 

University celel)rities sat. 

I'here were nine orations; after which tl 



le classes 



came uj) one by one, listened to some words in f.atii 



from the Presitlent. and were handed a 1 



)inulle of de- 



grees, which were re-distributed afterwards. When I), 
received his he was j^reatly cheered. W(; were allowed 
to peep into the line hall, where the party (Xoo) lunched; 

;ike a little speech; he did 



m 



D. was there, and had t( 

not get back till six. We went to Mrs. Kliot's (the wife 

of the rfetsident of Harvard), and had a ladies' Uinch. 



!t'ns open to the 

:inic what I call 
had an idea oi 

: in the Kr*>i'ii(is ; 

i was told that 1 
I was led thcie- 
the diimcr-hoiir, 

f the day. Mav- 
this un-lOiiyiisli 

ithn.p and Mr. 
icr side of iiiin ; 
)()site ; the (iov- 
Irs. Amory, Mrs. 
< I'erkins, oiir- 
(i the party. 
)n, and we saw a 

drove with an 
te House, where 
th Jiiin, escorted 

ill ten, and then 
I handsome tlie- 
ni, where all the 

liieh tlie classes 
words in I..uin 
I bundle of de- 
irds. Wlien I), 
e were allowed 
• (Hoo) lunched ; 
speech ; he did 
Kliot's (the wife 
a ladles" lunch. 



JUNE 187S 



y/ X/:il^ /LVUL.LVD HOME. 



4-^5 



.Sh 



e IS very pretty antl ni( e. am 



1 I 



iron 



I drove home wnh .Mrs. W inll 
cemetery tilled with beautiful plant> 
yy////,v,/,/r, j-///._I spent 
e with Mrs. U'inthrop in the aft 



enjoyed it very miu h. 



tl 



'lough a very line 



a very (uiiet dav, lak 



iriv 



w\x, a 



oration 



another Uiiuh, with an 

speeches were not reported, but I 

amusing and good. 



eriiooii. 



I). 



went to 



before it. 
hear his wa 



he 



s ver 



/•>/</< 



fei: 



</)■, J.V///.— I), and I went to breakf, 



ow. 



lit 



ami 



his dau'dit 



er, 



selves, were the party, l.ongfell 



1st with Long. 
;i Mr. (ireeii, and our- 



and kind. 



and gave me a' 1 



ow was very pleasant 



ni which he wrote mv nam 



caving a copy (,f ■• Rcranu 



He told us of a letter he received fr 



"111 a ladv. ask- 



ing f..r his autograph, ami suggesting that lu- ■sl„,„|,| 



copy her one verse of that 1 
" Itreak, break, breal 



ovely poem of his heeii 



miiiLr 



W 



t' got back to I'plands at el 



started on a very long drive t( 



even. 



ind soon afU'r 



> see .Mr. .\(la 
ister in London at the time of the W 



Mil 



nianv frii'iids tl 



Ills. 



If was 



II', and made 



lerc 



Ii( 

has I 



lives ni a (harming old-fashioned I 



iv^^w added to 



in everv ilirection 



ago he i)uilt a library in the garden, which i. a ( 
with .something verv (piaint about it. 'I'l 



louse, ivlii( h 
UKl ,1 few vears 



iiic room. 



bor( 



ers in the 



lere are Ix 



and I'lnglish-Iooking. 
Mr. .Adams has fi 



garden, and everything is old-fashioned 



ve 



New Englander.- 



J^ons, all doing well; but tlu 



West 



seem to think that the n 



will prevent the Kastern 



loiicN <if ihi. 



men from ever tak 



pnmunent part in polities again. .Mrs. .\,L 



mg a 



ims IS a very 
was a \ery pretty daiighter-iii- 



nice person, and there 

■»w there too. W,,. had lum heon witli thein. 'I 



drive IS a beautiful 
sunny. 



oni 



e, and the day wa 



W \\'-\ fIJ, 



antl 



\i 



426 



MY CAXADIAN JOURXAL. 



CIl. XXI 



','\%Y'' '' ' " 



m 




Mr. Parktnan diiu-d with the W iiithrops, and hud a 
long talk with I). Miss Motk'y is slayinj; hiTc. 

S,Uur,/(i\\ jt^f/i. — We were iij) very tar:\-. as ilic train 
started at ci;.,rht, and we had a \nn^ drive to liost'ui. 
Tiic Winthrops and Miss Motley saw lis otT. Thcv 
liave been most kind, and our visit has been very pleas- 
ant. 

Indeed I must say that wherever we have been in the 
States we have been most kindly reeeived. Xothinj,^ can 
exceed the hospitality of .\merieans; they seem as if 
they never could do enouijh for the comfort ami enter- 
tainment of those who visit them in their own homes; 
and I), and I have now hat! many opportunities of ap- 
l)reciatinj^ their kindness to stranj,'ers. 

The day was hot, and it seemcil v^rv loiii; in the 
train— from <S ,\. m. tdl 9 i-. m. ; then a rush up to the 
hotel for tea, anil then all ni^dit in the "cars." 

S///i,/(iv,j(>///.—\\'c reached (Quebec early in the morn- 
ing, and came over to the Citadel. 

Mt>//(/tn\ //t/y /s/.~ \ very hot day, upon which we 
did not do much till the evening, when we started in the 
y;/7//,/_lMed, I)., and 1— for Hie, where we take the 
train for Casaupscal, on the Metapediac River. 

Tnt'S(/a\\ 2if. — It was very pleasant sitting on deck 
till bed-time last night, with the prospect of a beautiful 
passage, but less delightful when we awoke this morn- 
ing, and recognized that easy roll iiroihict d by a swell, 
and heard that the wind was very strong, and that we 
were jiisf going to anchor on account of the fog. 

This we did, and wiien I fi'lt ;i little more accustomed 
to the motion, or when it was lessened by anchoring, 1 
got up, and lookeil into tlie siirrotmding mist, wonder- 
ing when it would clear, and whether we should see land 
soon enough to get ashore, and catch the train any- 



where; aiul what the Stephens' would 



iliMik wiien ihey 



irops, and had a 
njf here. 

irly, as the train 
:irivc to liost'in. 
V lis (iff, 'I'licy 
been very pleas- 
have been in the 
xl. Nothinji^ can 
they seem as if 
nfort ami enter- 
leir own homes; 
lortiniities ui ap- 

'■ry loiiiT in the 
rush up to the 
cars." 
irly in the morn- 

upon which we 
ive startt'd in (he 
Me we take the 

River. 

sittin),^ on deck 
ct of a beautiful 
I'oke this niorn- 
uccd by a swell, 
mjl, and tiiat wc 
' the fojf: 
lore accustomed 
by anchorinjj, I 
a mist, w<in(h'r- 

sliould see land 

the train any- 
hink when they 



Jii.v 1878 Don-^V THE ST. I.AWREXCE. 



427 



w 



ent to the station and did not find us, th 
injr that we had trusted to the sea at al 
(Iwen would imajrine if she ditl not hear of 
"lys (which is (juite iJossible). Hut happilv our 



)W- 



ey not kn( 

I ; and what 
us for three 



lers 



fuun 



^•ere cut short by the liftin^r (,f the b 



(I ourselves 



betw 



Woil- 



L^ and we 



een three shoals, and 



du Loup. We landed at once with our li 



(»U 



r servants on first, h.id a 1 



on 



and 



near Riviere 

agjjjajfe, sending 
;,^ drive to the station. 



near it met a verv e.\cited old 1- 



us that the train had just ;r,,„e wl 
rived, but that they had stopped it at tl 
aiKl were going to send 



renchman who tokl 
len our servant ar- 



le ne.xt station. 



it up. There is 
(ieneral. 



us on in a car and engine to pick 



some Use, yuu see, in being Cover 



nur- 



\V1 



leii we reached the train at C 



the chief of the line 



iicouna, Mr. I!ryi!ge> 



found that we had been k 



line into our carriage, and we 



ever, the tram wa 



eeping him waiting. As. 1 



low- 



a little to i!:s delintjuen 



s originally an hour late, w 



c onlv added 



cies. 



W 



ic, where we were to have landed, is such 



place; and, indeed, on our way to ( 
ral lovely bits of .scenery, thoiigl 



sevc 



country looks desolate and du 



a pretty 
asaupscal there are 
1 a great deal of (he 



ow 



Mr. Hrydges had his wife and familv on 1 
n private car, and he and his friend 



)oar( 



1 I 



lis 



with hatsiipon which was written "Create 



V\ 



e asked I he 



s walked about 
a-sar'sChost." 



name of a barge on which he 1 



meaning of this, and b)und that it is ll 



le 



ill the Restigoiich 



ives in his river. IFefislR's 



)lf fr 



(". a magnificent river which l)rancheH 



om (he Metapediac at a place called the Kork 



Up this he is drawn in his I 



)arge, anchors it at tlie top, 



and makes excursions in boats, always retu 
yacht at night. 



rnnig to hi» 



Wo 



got to our de.stination about hidf^pnst eight, and 



found Mrs. Stephens, Mr. Douglas, and Sir 1 



redenck 



wff^~ (l^^^^^^W^Wr't^iAa 



MtoWMHAMMMIiiUMMMHU 




!<j 




428 



MY C.lXAD/.tX JOURXAL. 



Clf. VXI 



Clraham at tlie station t 
fortunately, away. 



o meet us. .Mr. Stephens is, un- 



'I'i 



lis IS nuicii more civilized fishin,ir tl 



aflV^nls. 'I'iie liouse itself 



lan our river 



IS a very nice cottage. A 



railway runs along the banks of the river- the st 



cl(jse to the h 



ouse 



th 



nothing lonely about the 



ition IS 
ere is a telegraph, and there is 



lif( 



are ojien : \ mu look over distant hills and 



he surroundings, too 



have plenty of space round voi 



mountains, and 



bush. 



I, verv dilterenl i 



rom (lur 



\\ 



e had an excellent dinner, and afterwards sat 



an iron jxjt full of hre, the fuel b 



round 



fing supplied bv i'et 



cr, 



a (Ik 



iracter of dwarfish height, who used to keep a light- 



house, but left it in tlisgust 1 



vited so many guests to see the li'dith 



)ecause his wife's master ii 



put h 



ouse, and each one 



IS or her linger on the rellector, 1 



which Teter had to rub out. I can i 



eaving a smudge, 
magine how ag-rra- 



wen had told me of tl 



lis 



rating it must have become. ( 

man, and warned me that he would always enter my bed- 

a ladv has 



ro 



om withdut knocking; however, I think 



been told off t 



o wait on me. 



Mrs. Stephens was much afraid we should be too hot 



m our bedroom, which is under the roof; but th 
ing cooled down considerably, and we found it 1 
also there arc no (lies, which is delightful. 



e even- 
iixurious : 



]\'('Jiit'uhn\ ?(/.— W 



c got up at seven, had a 



tea and a bit of i)read, and went out ft 
went together in a wood 
John Hesh, 



CUD o 



siimg. 



I). 



aiK 



f 

1 r 



en canoe with a 



man called 



Ht 



ivi, ;i ('lasjie fishcrm.in, I worked 



cphens being very anxious that I should 



awav (Mr. 



salmon) and 0. Hogged the water, and , 
Ibow." another p„„l_l,„t eleven o'clock 



catch a 



i: 



a rise had we had, 
found that every 01 
It 



we tried "Ale 



came and n<il 



was too hot, nr hiiU I 



so we went home to breakfast, and 
u- else had been ccpially unlucky. 



)een too hot (salmon are 



won- 



li than our river 
nice cuttayc. A 
-I' ; tlie station is 
ipii, and there is 
irroundings, too, 
.1 nioiintaiiis, and 
llcrent from our 

rwards sat round 
ipplied by I'eter, 
I to keep a h^dit- 
vvife's master in- 
se, and eacli one 
:ivin<i^ a smudge, 
t,nne how aggra- 
I tohl me of this 
•s enter my hed- 
link a huly has 

nuld he too hot 
'; hut the even- 
nd it hixurions ; 
I. 

I, liad a cu]) of 
ling. I), and I 
I a man called 
rked away (Mr. 
hould cairh a 
i' tried " A lee's 
k came and not 
hreakfast, and 
pially nnliicky. 
dmon are won- 



JILY 1878 



O.V T/IE M/: TAP ED/ AC. 



tie 



rful 



-reatures for fimlinjr ,„it reasons for not 



iHit we were cheerful, and hoped for ! 



429 



risin.L,^) 



eveninir 



)etter si)ort in il 



Hreakfast 



on 



"•as a great meal of porridge, smoked 



, Dacon, eggs, tea and coffee 



salm- 



period of rest and idl 



an 



d aft 



eness. 



I 



•-•r it canu 



till about four, wl 



i took a walk with 1 



icn the gentle 



at with Mrs. Stei)hens 
men went out again, and 



ler. 



W 



e went along the road to Alec's ICll 



was fishing, and watched him for a 1 



'ow. where I). 



walk 



eti back to th 



ong tinu' 



V\ 



t' liouse, and he ret 



len we 



and made nie come and try mv I 



iirned there t( 



close to it ; l)ut 
time, and I), wa 



my luck in a beautiful \Hn>\ 



'>"' ii'»t a lish to Iieseen. It 



s just taking "01 



was (hnner- 



jnyful click of the reel was hear.l, and 



u; (-ast more," wl 



lei' the 



salmon, jumping out of the wat. 
an<.tlier long run, so that D.'s line 
We followed 1 



er 



away rushed a 

and then taking 

was nearly all out. 

er would 



iim as well as the verv rough wat 
IH-rmit; hut our long-e.xi,ected victun dropped the tlv 
out of his mouth, and left us feelmg very m.u h "sold.' 



fishing having hien so had all day, the whole I 



li"l(l were collected on the bank t 



lOUSC' 



w 



th 



e dined well, in spite of our misfort 



" watch the capture 



c evening as usual. 



tines, and spent 



77iitrsJcn\ .////.— We 1 



ia\ 



on 



about 



the line, and an engine whenev 



e Mr. Ilrydges's priv 



so we settled to 



:ite car 
IT we want to move 



make an e\|)edition t( 



other; and we had a ch 

river, fishing at every pofij. 1^„t 



see the 

iiggage 

<»tu lanoe. Sir Frederick m the 

irming morning going down the 



nver to-day. We started at 7.30, strvants and I 
in our car, I), and I in 



At 



seeing no prt v 



eleven we reached Assmatpiaghan. where .»«r car 
was •• anchored." and in it we found a hreakfast laal. and 
everything looking st> comfortable. 

Then we ordered ,he engine to ^tarv and ha.Ia really 



l!' 



|8 ^i iiii w."i i^y,>. 



ff 



. \ 



m m 





430 



MV atX.tD/AX JOCKXAL. 



cir. XXI 



lovely "drive" to Campl)ellto\vn. 



Met; 
ill ti 



'I'll 



e junction of the 



I)c(iiac and the Resti,ir„„che is <iuite l)eautiful, and 



all the way alon^r the road the vie 
\\^V, to see. 



\vs are well worth com - 



\t Campbelltown I), and 1 walked down to the pi 
sittinj,r down there, enjoyed the vi 



and 



air till our enj,Mne had t 



er. 



ews and the sea 



board 
Wh 



a.i^ain, and came back t 



urned round, when we got 



on 



o our anch(^ 



rage. 



en the sun was low, we resolved to give the sal 
on another chance, but i)y dinner-time tl 



m- 



caught was a small grilse, which I). 



ler, and which we ate at 



once. We have 



ic only thing 
got just before din- 
most comfort- 



able bedrooms in the car, where we slept after we had 
sat over a s|)Iendid camj) fire outside. 



Friday, st/i. — Th 



e inor 



engme going, and returneil to C 



Ming fishing over, we set 



our 



eleven o'( lock i)reakfast 



In ll 



ic afternoon ev 



isaupscal in time for the 
and very hungry we were for it. 



ery one set to work again, and 1). 



caught one jH-pound salmon, and Fred 
we were away lie got one 25 pound> 
luckiest of the party. 

After dinner no less th, 
in our honor — ;■ 



one 



Wh 



He 



le lias i)een the 



in .seven bonfires were lighted 



IX on the opposite bank of tl 



one nearer to us. They looked very bright in the d 



night 

S(ifii>i/(jy, 6f/t. — Fisli 
the morning; and at th 



le river, and 
ark 



in 



g unlucky— nothing d 



one in 



ree we left i 



very sorry not to spend a few days more in th 
spot. 



n our special train. 



•s pleasant 



In al 



we 



)out two hours we got to R 



re a crowd and an address. We d 



imouski, where the 



re 



lage, looked into a coll 



rove round the vil- 



to our car, where we refreshed 



ege and a convent, 



and returned 



oil 



tea. 



Tl 



rselves with a cup of 



le next station was Hie. and there we had 



address, and walkeil throuiHi t! 



another 



!'!ge and down 



10 



the 



L' junction of the 
te beautiful, and 
; well worth com- 

lown to the pier, 
;\vs and the sea 
lien we got "on 
horasre. 

give the sahii- 
the only thing 

just before din- 
L' most comf(trt- 
l)t after we had 

ver, we set our 

1 in time for tiie 
y we were for it. 

again, and 1). 
one 36. While 
le has been the 



■ Iiing done in 
r sjiecial train, 
ill this pleasant 

ki, where there 
round thevij- 

'■, and returned 
with a cup of 

ivehad another 

id down to the 



Jui.v 1878 



cnrco'^TiMr. 



431 



quay, where we found our 



IS quite lovely: the hills are of most 
esque shapes, and I should think it a rl 



own boat waiting for u- B 



ic 



spend a summer in, Uc looked 



ciuious and \, ir- 
'larming place ro 



a party of Indians were 1 



into a great cave, where 



)urned bv their ene 



;ig,,_exchanged greetings with' .Nlrs. Archi 
)t'll, whose children were firing a salute in 



mies long 



bald (■ 



anip- 



iiid who has a very pretty cottage h 
)oard with the cure, a M. Syl 



our honor. 



ors, who went over the Di 



ere, and then got on 
vain, and some other visit- 



mained at anchor till twelve, and th 



■///</, and then left us. W 



e re- 



do u sac. 



Monday, c5V//.— We startetl 
we began to fish for tr(jut, and 1 



seven dozen bet 



anchored, we got a boat 



ween us. In the eve 



en set off for Tu- 



iq' the Saguenay. .At one 
'y three had caught about 



ning, as we were 



the C 



anadi.m boat-son<rs 



s crew to row round us, sini 



:"ig 



us 



TiusJay, (^///.—Sir Frederick Grah 
at C'hicoutimi (where we arrivet 



aham and Fred left 



ing), 
on. 

(iwen, and 1 went by st 
getting into a buggv. d 



i early 



in the morn- 



:md went on an expedition after land-locked 
riuy will cam|i out for tl 



saim- 



nie or four tl; 



I vs. 



«&.» 



caintal sport herewith two good sal 
watching him, and looking at th 



aix 



ere, 

had 

mon, and we enjoyed 

e salmon jumping up the 



eamer to Ha-Ha Hay, aiul th 
Ii-ove to thcA-Mas River. I) 



We returned to the Dndd, dined, and 
e night we started again, and 



In th 

in the morning 

Wednesday, ioth.~\S^x\ t 
away our blankets, but left al 



sat on deck. 



arrived at 'I'adous, 



;ic 



over our emjity house, took 



shut it 



ou 



up— the last time. I su 



r nice furniture. 



and 



place. I hate th 



ppose. we shall ever see thi 



ese good-bys. 
Russell .Ste|ihenson came on board, and 



for Quebec. Unfortunately, the d 



we started 
ly was very wet and 



il 










432 



My CI. \.l /)/,!. V JOVKXAL, 



H. XXI 



tlisa^rreeable ; hut the rain will put out the hush fires, 
which are very i)a(l just now at Tiiree Rivers. The Mont- 
real hoat ac tually had to turn back on account of the 
smoke. 

T/nnsday, /////._( ;,;t to Quebec carlv. and came up 
to l)reakfast at the Citadel. I suppose we shall not 
aK-am sjiend a ni-lit in the dear old /;////,/. In the even- 
iiik^ we ^^ot a tek-ram from Sir K. 'rhornlon (Washinjr. 
ton), to .say that two thousand rou,<,dis had left ]5uffalo, 
and Hone to Montreal to " help " on the i Jth. 

Fruhy, y-V//.— (Ireat anxiety felt in the mornini,^ as 
to what woukl happen in Ah.ntreal. Three thous'and 
troops are there, and the Mayor has two hundred special 
constaI)les. 

At eleven the (ieneral telej,n-aphed, "There will he no 
procession - ; and the end of the whole thin- was, that 
the Mayor fcnnul an old .\ct which declared the proces- 
sion ille.tral : he seized the marshals as they came out of 
the Hall, :,„o ihe rest of the people remained shut up 
the whole day. and in the evening- were conveyed home 
in cah:, Wc b.ope this is the end of it. 

Sumh.y, / ;.y/._Sir iM-ederick and Fred returned from 
a pleasant expedition, hut unsuccessful fishinjr. They 
came hack in a hoat full of Americans— forty-seven of 
the Maine Press Association— and had j^^reat fun, as 
these people sang;, and recited, and acted, and made 
speeches. They were all in church this mornini,^ and 
we asked them to come up and see the Citadel and have 
tea. It was rather awful when they first arrived, as 
there was no one to introduce them, and they came in 
two and three together, all arm in arm. HoA-ever, I cut 
it short by going and shaking hands with everv one. 
though they evidently did not consider this an 'intr 
duction, as all afternoon they kept re-intr()ducin<r 



one- to the other. 



tro- 
me 



t the bush fires, 
•ers. The Moiit- 
1 account of the 

y. and came up 
c we siiall not 
/■ In the even- 
•nton (Washinjr. 
Kul left Buffalo, 
iJtli. 

the morniii;,r ^^ 
riiree thousanii 
hunth-ed special 

riiere will be no 
thin;; was, that 
red the jiroces- 
ey came out of 
lained shut up 
conveyed liome 

returned from 
fishing. They 
forty-seven of 
«:reat fun, as 
cd, and made 

morninir, and 
tadel ami have 
St arrived, as 

they came in 
loA-ever, I cut 
til every one, 
tliis an intro- 
troduciii": me 



Ji:lv 1S78 



QUEBEC. 



They said they were a large \), 
all serene, all bent upmi havii">- 



433 



irtv, " all harnu>ni(ius. 



g a good tune, all ac- 



quaints since childho.ui." \Vc walked about the plat- 
form, and they were much j, leased when thev found th 



were adniilteil into t; 



inner circle," and that it 



ley 



was a 



private sp(,t. They greatly appreciated our beautiful 
view, and were interested in all we showed tiiein. 
we gave them tea and claret-cup, which t 
enjoy ; showed the 1' 



lev 



to the Citadel to sav " (n^.d-l 



luis of Abraham, and the 



Then 
d to 
rned 



)V 



Fort 



y-seven people shaking hands (jnickiv, and all 



saying the same thing in a different form : •• Thank 

for delightful entertainment"; "Most h 

seen y.iu "; " Such a lovely time " ; '• V,.ur hosnitalitv 



vou 



ippy to have 



N 



The honor 
never forget 
our tour," etc. I smiled a 
ceremony. 
In the 
received the parties most 



Hope lo see vmi in the State; 



e\cr expected 



" Will 
I'lie feature of 



most too pleasantlv o\er this 



morning paper I see that " their !• 



xcell 



liemselves. 



free from restraint as tl 
Fred to give his love to his mot 
a good son. 



jraciouslv, and 



encies 
Were (luite as 



On 



e man told 



'ler, and tell her sh 



e had 



;h 



ere wa 



s one ver 



his h 



V fu 



air in the dra 



nny little man who combeil 



never could talk to him. a 
introduced to me. 
Sat III- Jaw 20th. — \\ 



wnig-rooni when he came 



ni 



but F 



at eight. Directlv aft 



, as some one was always being 
c were up early, and breakfasted 



Graham off to England. Colonel 



came down from Ottawa, and tl 



er we went down to see Sir F. 
and Mrs. Littleton 



I 



other break-up of our life here. 



was very sorry to say good-by to tl 



leir children sail to-day. 



icm, as It is an- 



At twelve we had a combin.iiion of breakf,-!-.* and 



luncheon, no one ha\ 



uig eaten much this mornin 



(r 



:ind 



%■ 




FAREWELL TO OTTAWA. 



417 



I have tn-6 more of these farewells 



1 bf|tle 

ryth% 



ru 



perfecm 



ds, atK^i 



d pro- 
rsented 
f) very 
stel to 
fan at 
to the 
le the- 
p and 
guests 

w. and 
o Ot- 



% 



y kind friends. 

_o th cough. 

1^1 Sun^o), 2d.~\Ve went to our litti? church for the 

^t time, and in tbtf afternoon D. and I drove with 

iphe, Freddie, and Victoria to the Cemetery, to see 

'lit stone .put up to J. P. Ward's memorv. It is a small 

^I?ish cross. On our return we found Dr. Grant • he 

^'^can't bear. to say "Good-by," and comes here nearly 

\%^Very.day. 

r/iursdaj,d/Pt.-^Wc vent into town, where an ad- 
dress was presented at the town Hall. ' T-Jiere was a 
%'arge guard of honor and croSfds of people. The 
building is a "new one, with a fine hall, where we were 
received. - 

The Mayor read the address, and when that and the 
answer were ov?rwd shook hands with ail the people 
who hked. to come up. Then we went out on the bal- 
cony, and an alarm of fire was sounded, that we might 
see the engines at work. 

D. then a,ddressed the guard of honor (Governor- 
General's Foot Guards), and we cfrove away amidst loud 
cheers. We were shown a ftill-Iehgth picture of I>., an 
excellent likeness, painted by order of tlie Government 
' for the Parliament Buildings. . * 

I am sure I have told you before how much Fred is 
liked here, and what a popular A. I). C. he has been. 
Well, as a proof of their appreciation of his unfailing 
kindness and courtesy during the last six years, his 
Canadian ffieiids have presented him with a handsome 
Sliver tray, teapot, urn, cream-jug, etc.— quite an unpre- 
cedented honor ! % 

FnWay, 7M.— T >ft Ottawa. We had to get up early 
and be at the boat bv seven. It wa«t tryif 



Ji^i t Ug.t.&tst.«^ 



had to say ^o'od-by to all the people about pur house, 
<ind then at t¥je wharf we found many friends. The 





4^8 



,^, 






mmmm 



' M Y CAXAPIAN JO VRXAL. 



CH. XX 

large gukrd of honor was drawn Up on "the top of the 
cliff, and at the water's edge were the friends. 

A number of young men-^the bachelors— were wait- 
ing for me on board with a bouquet and'sUver holder- 
then the ship began slowly to move away; and there 
were long cheers and waving of handkerchiefs till we 
were out of sight. Ottawa looked lovely as we left 
and never shall we forget our happy six years here and 
our, innumerable friends. \ 

., We had tq change at Gr^iiville into a train, and there 
say a few more gopd-bys. After half an hour we got 
into another steamer, which took us to Montreal At 
several of the small places we passed, crowds had col- 
lected tQ give us a parting cheer. At Montreal the 
steamer was full of people, all come to say good-by 
and to see an address presented. This was from the 
Curlers, and with it was giv^en a beautiful colored photo- 
graph, with a view of Montreal, and portraits of our- 
selves and many other, people we know. It is an oil 
picture, and is a most charming remembrance D re- 
plied ; but in the middle of the ceremony the galleries 
began to creak, and the crowd had to get out of them 
quickly. ,^ ., 

Saturday, cPM.-Up very early to see the children off 
to England. We breakfasted on board the Quebec 
steamer, and went in a tender to the Allan s s Scandi- 
navian. The Bishop and Mr. Dobell are on board and 
It was a lovely day for starting ; but it was very sad see- 
ing all our flock go-and now we have half left Canada 

Dufferin and I, Mr. Reynolds and Mrs. Littleton, went 
on board the ^r«/^, and are now on ouc way to Gasp6- 
but we shall not be ourseJves till we have slept upon all 
the partings of the last two days. It has been so de- 
lig^f£mCanada,an 4neveragaina^^^ 
To ^ surrounded by so many true and kind friends. 



^. 



\t 



CM. XX 

op of the 






M • \-'-. ~mg!e«3i?5^i^' 



ivere wait- 
;r holder ; 
and there 
is till we 
5 we left, 
here and 



'^ 



■/■ 



CHAPTER XXI. 

THE EASTERN TOWNSHrpS AND LAST DAYS IN CANADA. 

Tuesday, June //^.-Everything we do now seems to 
be impressed with that horrid word " last " • here we are 
at Gasp^ for the last time, enjoying our' last fishing 
cfu.smg for the last time in the old Druid, and mentally 
saying '<good-by - to many a pleasant thing MtM(ih has 
become a habit to us during the pa^six years^ 

We arrived .early in the morning, and even before 
breakfast there was an evident excitement on deck, ^hd 
.'Pcould hear through my skylight as I dressed "yarns" 
of the forty-pounder the Colonel had lost, and of the 
smaller fry he and Sir E. Graham * have killed I elected 
to^^am at home to-day, but Mrs. Littleton went with 
Mr.-Reynolds to stay a few days with him, and to join 
her husband on the York. 

Fred and D. went to the lower pools of our river 
which they can fish from the Druid 
' I am leift in possession of " Tinker," Fred's devoted 
fox-terrier. No blandishments of mine affect him • he 
chooses to sit in sackcloth and ashes until his master's 
return ; he shivers in the ante-room, will riofe b^ warmed 
by my fire; will not even eat the mutton-chop I present 
him with, antl makes me feel rather small at my signal V 
failure to ^||n his confidence . lM 




k Grahaiq of Netherby. 



% 



I 



tt 



I! 



ii 



% 



%. 



420 




jqURNAL, 



• * , 

' 1 



CVL XX.I 



Wednesd<^^M:—^7i\n all night, the river rising. 
And— as I te#the gentlejnento cheer them-^there are 
fourteen .%ours to be spent in doing nothing! I divide 
my day into ho^jrs of eating, wq|kiM|^|gLing, writing, 
and wj^Jking on deck. So I hcgW^nf^ all^iy k- 
ters, tl) braid Victoria an elaborate frock, antl to be well 
readji^^he history of the War of IndependeDCe before I 
go ^^^oston. 

^.'^ afternoon was fine, and D. sketched, and some 
ver;|^|'fflportant telegrams came. I had a cipher one to 
' hich took me two hours and a half, and that made 
ible in the fourteen! There is a riot at Quebec ; the 
0'W|t the, ringleader shot, and many people 
Vounded. *^ 

The Lit^fetons arrived when w| were at dinner, and 
we spent a pleasant evening hearing of their adventures, 
and playing whist. Sir Frederick remains with Mr Rey- 

. Thursday, /J'iJib— The steamer which was to take the 
Littletons away arrived unexpectedly at 5 a.m., and they 
had to pack and go off stt oncek, 

D. and Fred went out fisfting-^^nd broughi.hbme Only 
one salmon each j Fred's, j.w.as a b'&au^y., weigtiing29 lbs. 
When D. camelj^e l^ettred Ikx us to go up to the 
bush, as the fish Spfe left the lower part of the river. 
This was just arrang^when he got a telegram" from 
Qtj^bec asking hin^^ilijave a B^sh xegin#t seat, 

T^ 
j!,3nd by two 
11 t>e the d^sap-, - 



tlvere, so D. thinks he'^liad bettei'.^reyrn %ionce. 
s fires are lighted, coal taken on b 



"o'clock in the* night we,^r^~off 



ji^intment to the men we em 
inr th*^ naprning and vfind us 
set^ ^fT^numbers of telegraniK; an 
•^Iffice said his ''head felt very bad." 




vheil'fhey cojxme^. 

ifore starting we 

the clerk of the 

He seldom has so 



^ ■ 




■J!" 



■■:T 



JU.VK 1878 



QUEBEC. 



421 



/-r/^/ov, /^M.-Such lovely weather, the sea like a 
glass and covered with fishing boats. We stopped and 
bought over sixty cod. sonje of them very large, for two 
dollars. -' 

Saturday, /jM.-At Father Point we received a tele- 
:||am from Dent to say that all our rooms were filled 
w.th soldiers, beds on the floors, etc. We made up our 
mmds to stay on the Druid. 

Sunday, /<JM._We found on 01^ arrival at Quebe^ 
this mornmg that most of the soldiers had left so w^^^" 
wen^p there and found everything tidy again ' There 
IS still one regiment here, and the officers are filling the 
rooms we intended for. Gwen. 

.Dent had to provide for si.vty officers-give them 
■^^fets, towels, etc^; so I don't know what they 
■ ^/>mbave done if slie had not been here, ^gycept 
^''^'^^'■^^* °*-^^>too, and insisted upon thei^kc: 
ing a p|aw whjph had come to grief in a bolstering 
match.||M»? ' 

del "^^^W^ "^^ "'''''' ^° ^^'^^^ "P ^° ''^Cita- 
del wi h. Evf^ing seems quiet for the preserU 

the Hot'" Th'T^' ^*'"' '" ''' "'' ^"^ '^'^ "« -" -bout 
he not. The day was muggy and wet, and in the night 
there was a severe thunderstorm ^ 

Monday, ///^-D. was- very busy all day, and in the 
evening we diiVed at the Lleutenant-Goveitr^ ^ 
between him and M. Joly. the Prime Minister ; and Tn 
the other side of him was a pleasant man. They talked 
a great deal, and were very amusing. It was a lar^e 

themselves in Ee not. Sir Nardsse Belleau, MMrvinV 
and^several more e./. the political celebrities here 



fuX ^''; ™°^"'".8^ <^" the Esplanade. It was fine and 
sunny, and the regiment gave great satisfadTion to the 



y''.^, ■■ f?T«?io)'' If ~5i9|^,^T!^?E»ir«"^ •?(i<«Tj'ifr's»^iff 



Cy^ i. ■ ■, ; 



422 



Afy CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH XXI 

military lookers-on. D. complimented them, and on 
their return to barracks they were disbanded. 

Thursday, 2oth.~\\e had a very pleasant expedition 
to-day. Starting in the Druid about lunch-time we 
went over to the Island of Orleans, where we drove in a 
carnage lent to us by a " Habltan." The views from 
the island a're lovely. 

Friday, 21s/.— We slept on board ami started early m 
the morftmg, reaching St. John, a town at the other end 
of the island, by breakfast-time. We were hot expected ' 
there, but the, jDruid was seen in the distance, and by the 
time we^ landed every cottage had hoisted a flag or a 
tablecloth, and people were at every do©r bowing and 
smiling. , ■ 

After oui drive round this end of this pretty island 
we found more preparations had been made: two men 
had got thems,elyes into red tunics, and seven or eight 
young ladies had guns, and fired an impromptu and 
amateur /eu de joir They also^had bouquets ready for 
us, tied with white ribbon; mine had written upon it 
''For Lady Dufferin, in remembrance of herSisit to 
St. John." The cur^ said if he had only known before, 
we should have had all the country-people in to greet us. 
Quebec: Saturday, 22d.— At three o'clock we went to 
the House of Parliament, whtfre addresses were pre- 
sented to D. on his approaching departure; he replied 
and both addresses were read in French and English' 
The room was very full, every one having come to see 
the ceremony. The speeches in Parliament upon the 
address were extremely flattering, and, coming from 
both sides of the House, are very gratifying. 

Sunday, 23d.— We had some difficulty in arranging 
our journey to Boston— to which city D. has been in- 
J2^^.a^ ,^°-i^g^l.^ Doctor'sj jggree. { Eo m_l lre-_ 



"University of Harvard-so as to arrive there on Mon- 



Htft^ 




# 



I 




- f 



r 



LADY DITKKRIN. 



JUNE. 1 878 



BOSTON. 



A~l 



V 



Uay ;>it w,n,ld take tw.nt^-f,.ar hours, and there were 

he, r^ns on Sunday uy talked or«o,„, up to M.,,u-' 

' real ,n the Z;,-W, but as that xvould have' eost the 

. .. . Ooverm„an^,oo, we ^ave up the idea ; and virtue was 

. - rewardc,forthe'n1air.stea,ner arr.vn^. an .xpres. 

> ^^^ ■nn^ed.ately to l,e sen| o^. So we ,rn,sh.i our 

, pa,lcn^ and went .n that.. I,. ax,d I had an 'excxHent 

, il.ght u, the tram, aiuJ reached Montreal at s,>; in the 

. ' morning. . . ; 

^ Mo^uiay, 24th.-^. started again at n.nc on ourway 
JD Ijostb^i. V - ' < 

The>^^l_^way passesthrou^rh -a lovdv eountry-^rivers 

. /md mountaurs and- fertde valleys-and we arrived at ' 

ios^M. hue m the evening. .^Ve were met at the station 

by Mr. U.nthrop, who had just been assistnig .rt rather 

a meiaucholy dmner^a gathenng of the surviv'ors of 

Pifvs class ,t X^^^,^^ hfty years ago; the heavy hand V>r 

nine /lad of,e.n.rse committed, fearful ravages ni the 

^alf.c^ftiry. and I only wonder aVbo.dy' was able to 

. -. dine at ali. ^ 

. ' FTJ drove* out to Upland., which ,s ab(.u( a quarter 
Ct arf hour from Boston, in a snJ^urfj called Hrookline 
««l:jfa«st:s family consists of Mrs. Winthrop, hi. daugh- 
■ on inviilid'-daughter of Mrs. \\ inthrop's Ue 



ha'(Tfe^a4*l were then glad to go to bed 



Tuesday , ^f//i--^' Immediately after breakfast the 



were prayers in the hall, whkh is 1 



re 



rigtit through the house, with a"d 
the grounds. The walls .arc V^ood 
,.|»irtures; there are -tables, hm^ks, b 
about, and /t- makes a very fiu t 



<uig and narrow, going 
loor at each eiul into 



en. and Covered with 



'lists, and br< 



'tiJK-S 



liid 



e is the dining-room, and on th{*other the d 



room, and tn'oth^ small room 



sitting-ro<(m. On one 



rawing. 



-^ 



^ 'fK-rt^^^nrir^nrr-rrrr ^ lTrTvr7fl- fTielTe^TiXw, rhl^T^dT 



^ 



a ifit 



y pretty oeighborhood it is-vijia aAcp villa, sur- 

2(5 * 









'# 

.< 






■-— -fia 



WM^PlPPilPI 






424 



Afy CANADIAN JOURNAL."^ 



cit. txi 



pounded by pjots of grass and gardens open to the 
road. Then we lunched, and then came what I call 



the American part of the day. 1 had had an idea of 
sitting out in the garden and of v^alking in the grounds ; 
but as I came out of the dining-room 1 was told that 1 



must rest, and that djnner was at six. I 
f( 



was led there- 
re uj) to my room, again reminded oi the dinncr-^our, 



.and shirt up there for the remainder of the day. Hav- 
ing a nice botik, I reconciled myself to this un-Knglish 
way of spendiirg the afternoon. 

rop and Mr. 



At d 



inner I sat between Mr.' W inth 



Longfellow, with Mr. Dana on the oth 



Wendell Flomcs an<I Mr. I'ark 



er side of him 



nian opposite 



the ( 



lOV 



ernor of the State, the Chief Justice, Mrs. Amory. Mrs. 
Mason (formerly Sumner's wife). Mrs. Perkins, our- 
selves, and young Mrs. V\inthr(>p, formed the party. 

In the evening there was a reception, and we saw a 
number of distinguished |)eoplc. 

U'cdiieulay, ^f^M.— This morning I), drove 'with a 
\^ officer in a carriage-and-four to the State House, where 
he met the (rovcrnor, and at ten went with him, escorted 



n 



by 



an 
We 



cers, to the College (Harvard). 



adies 



did 



not leave the house til! ten. 



and then 



went to Harvard, and took 



our 



hainh 



seats in a haifdsomc the- 
atre, immediately opposite to the~ platform, where all the 
UYiiversity celebrities sat. 

There were nin«t orations; after which the classes 
camei up one by one, listened to some word.s in Latin 
^rom the President, and were handed a bundle of Ci€- 
grees, which' were re-chstributcd afterwards. When I), 
received his he was grcatly cheered, ^\■c were allowed 
to peep in|^) the fine hi»1^, where the pjl/ty (Hoo) lunched ; 
1). was there, and had to make" a Utile .speech; he did 





ll 


not get l)a( k tiii sixi Ue went to Mrs. Eliofs fthe wife 


> 




1 


ot the President of Harvard), and had a lacjies' lunch; 






1 




J ■ 



JUNE 1878 , A A'£IV EXGLAND HOME. 

» ■ 
'-■■■*.■ 

She is very pretty and 



I drove lioihe with M 



cemetery fiUcd witii be^wtiful plaiib 



An 



ice, and I enjoyed it very much. 
0>. W'inthroi) through a very ( 



ine 



Tliuruiav: 2flh.~\ 



Iriv 



,e withMrs. Winthrop in the aft 



pent a very (piicl day, takinjj a 



another luncli. 



ernoun. 



1). 



with 



went to 



an 



'oration " beforfc it. Tht 



speeche^s were not reported, but I hear h 
■amusin),r and ^(kk\. 



IS was V 



try 



J'ndiiY, ^St/i.~\). 



fellow. He and his dauidi 



md I went to brcai<fiist with I 



Rhter, a Mr. ( 



selves, were^ t lie i)arty. I.cju^feH 



.on^. 
irecn, and our- 



ynd kind, and j,Mve nie at 
in which he wrote my name. 



ow was. very pleasant 
leaving a copy of - Kcramo.s." 



He told Us of a letter 1) 



c received from a la(rv, ask- 



'"R for his autograph, and suggesting that he ^hoak 



copy her one verse, of that lovel 
" Break, break, break. 



y i)oeni (^f his begi 



•ginning 



We 



got back to I'plands at^I 



started on a very 1 



Ministe 



r in London at the t 



ong drive to see Mr. Ad, 



even, and soon after 



inis. 



many friends there. 



ime of the War. 



He was 

and made 



He 



lives in a char 



has f/een added t 



ming old-fashioned 1 



<> in every di recti 



on 



ago he built a library in the garden, whici 



with 
bord 



something very (juaint al 



louse, which 
ainl ;ii few )«^r.s 
1 is a fine roo 



)out It. 



ers in tht 



'Ih 



m, 
ere are bhx 



garden, ami everything's old-faslujJied 



k' 



e sons, all doing .well ; but tht 



and iMiglish-looking 

Mr. Adams lias.fiv. 
New Knglandefs seem t 
West will ^xrevent the Kastc 
prominent part in politics again. Mrs. Ad 



u think that the 



m 



oney of the 



nice person, and there was 



rn men from ever taking a 
;ims ^s a vety 



law there tOd. We had lunci 
'Ir'YC is a bt.-autiful 



a very pretty dauj,Hitcr-in- 



leon with theiM. 'I'l 



le 



sutlny. 



u .K^ , and -rirtr day fas warnr^aHir 



"Si 






\r I 



mmm 



426 



ji/T CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



CH. XXI 



Pi. 



Mr. Parkmjan dined with the Winthrops, and had a 
long talk with I). Miss Motley is staying here. 

Saturday, ^///.^We were up very «arly, as the train 
Started at eigiht, and we had a long drive to Ikjston. 
The' Winthrops and Miss Motley saw us off. 'I'hey 
have been mQ$t kind, and our visit has been very pleas- 
ant. 

Indeed. I must say that wherever we have been in the 
States we have been most kindly received. Nothnig can 
exceed the hos|)ital.ity of Americans; they seem as if 
they never could do enough for the comfort and enter- 
tainment of those who visit them in their own hT)nies; 
and I), iind I have now had many opportunities of ap- 
preciating thei\r kindness to strangers. 

'I'he day was hot, and it seemed very long in the 
train— from 8 a.m. till 9 p. .m. ; then a rush up to the 
hotel for tea, and then all night in the "cars." 

Sunday, joth.—\\*i reached (^uebet^ early in the morn- 
ing^ajid came over to the Citadel. 

Yilmday, July /s/.—A very hot day, ui)on which we 
did not do much till the evening, when we started in the 
y^rt/id—Vrcd' D., aiid I— for Hie, where we .take the 
train for C'a.saUjiscal, on the Metapediac Rivef 

Tuesday, 2d.~li was very pleasant sitting on deck 
till bed-,time laist ni;rht, with the jirospect of a beautiful 
passage, but less delightful wlien we awoke this morn- 
ing, and recognized that easy roll produced by a swell, 
and heard that tho wind Was vefy strong, and that we 
Were just goin|; to arvchor o,n account of the fog. 

- This we diit, and when I felt a little more accustomed 
to the motion, or when it was lessened by anchoring, 1 
gat up, and looked into the surrounding mist, wonder- 
ing when it would clear, and whether we should seii land 
ROon c»o"gh tf)^^ej_^ashore, and catch tji^p tr-on-any- 
whore; and what tfie, Stephens' woultj think when they 



W^"****! 



*.. 



■... s^'^';.i 



the morn- 



JUI.Y 1878 BOfm THE ST. LAWREXCE. 

went to the station and did not find us, they not know-^- 
ing that we had trusted to the sea at all;, ami what 
Cwen would imagine if she did not hear of us for three 
days (which is quite possible). U'ut happilycur " won- 
ders ' were cut*hort by the, lifting of the fyg, and we, 
found ourselves between three shoals, and near Riviere 
du Loup. We landed at once with our baggage, sending ' 
our servants on first, had a long drive to the station • 
-^and near it met a very excited old Frenchman who told 
•us that the train had just gone when our servant ar- 
rived, but that they teid stopped it afr the next station 
and were going to send us on in"a car aiid engine to puk^ 
It up. There is some use, you see, in being (;uv:i;rnor- 
CJeneral. 

When we reached the train at Cacouna, ,Mr Hrydges 
the chief of the line, came into our carriage, ami we 
found that we |?ad been keeping him waiting \^ h^. 
evcT, the train was origiiullly an hour late, we only added' 
a little to its delJnciuencies. , ' 

I5ic, wlrere we were td have lande.l, is such a pretty 
place; and, indeed, on our way t<. Casaupscal .there are 
several lovely bits of scenery, though a great deal of the 
country looks desolate and dull. ' 

Mr. Hrydge.s had hi» wife and family on board his 
own private car, and he and his. friends walked about 
with hats upon which was written " (;reat (-esar's ('Ihu^t - 
We asked the meaning of this, and found that it is the 
name of a barge^on which he lives iij his riveY. He fishes 
in the Kestigouche, a magoificent, river which bron^hes 
off from the Metapediac at a place called, the hork^ 
Up this he IS drawn in his bitge, anchors it .tt tlie top 
ami n?akes excursions in boats, i^hvays returning" to his 
yacht at nijifht. 



"'S 



4¥^ 



Trnrrn ouMiestiiMtion about hairi^^t~right ancT 
found Mrs. Stephen.^ Mr., Douglas, and Sir Medei-icW 



li 



, ./v- ^.v 






CH. XXI 




ftt gq^t a tfT- u iil tirk ff 



rt was too hot, or had been too hot (salmon are ^fron 



X 



JULY 1878 ON TlfE METAPEDIAC 

♦ 429 

derful creatures far finding out reasons for not risinjj) • 

but we were cheerful, and hoped for bcttl-r sport in tie 
evening. 

Breakfast was a great meal of porrulgc, smoked salm- 

^ on,, bacon, eggs, tea and coffee; and after it came a 

perKKl orest and idleness. I sat w.th Mrs. Stephens 

■ 1 about four, when the ^^entlemen went out again, and 

I took a walk witlj her. 

• ^y^J^"t>long the road to Alec's Hlbow, where n 
was fKshmg, and Watched him for a long tune. Then we 
waked back to .the house, and he returned there tocf 
and made me come and try my ludc in a beaut.ful pooi 
ck.e to .r but no loot a fish to be seen. ItwasdinLr! 
lime, and ). was just takn.g '-one cast more," when the ' 

J.;yfuldK:k of the reel was heard, ,nd,:awa;rush«i: 
salmon, jumpnig out ,.f the .water. .,nd then taking • 
au<>theHong run. so that l),-s i,ne was" nearlv ^11 out ' 
. Ue/pliowed hm, as well as the very mugh waler would 
permit; but (H.r l.ong-ex,)ectcd victim dropped the fly 
outu>f his m..uth,.and .left us feelmg very much " sold ' ^ 
Ihe HsI^mg h:mag been so bad ailday, the whol, house- 
hold were coHerted on the bank to watch the capture' 

-Wedirted welt, in spite of our misfortunes, and spent 
the evening as usual. 

ThurUay, ^f/,:^We have Mr. lirydges's private car 
on the Ime. and an er>gine whenever, we want to move 

ahmit • i;,\ .1.,. i„»ti...i . r* 1 - • 



abdut; so we settled to intake a 



river to-day. We .started 



n expedition to see the 



our car, D. and I 



at 7.30, servants and, lugj,^age 



other ; and wc' hatj a charming mar 
riv^er, fishing at every pool.but 



in one canoc; Sir .irtderick iti the 
liing going down the 



At eleven we reached A 



seeing no prey. 



ssmaquaghan, where 



our car 



^»U iq it we found a breakfast Iwrr? .-.n,! 



Was "anchored, 

cvci yiliirig lo«)king~;j^r7^TSi777FubI^ 

Then we orclered the engine to start, and had a really 



\ < 



i' , 



nppiPfiPfwppiili 



430 



M'V CANADIAN JOURNAL. 



<rir. XXI 



lovely " drive " to Campbelltown. The junction of the 
MetapecJiac and the Restigouche is quite beautiful, and 
„ ail the. way along the road the views are well worth com- 
ing to see. 

At Campbelltown I), and I walked down to the pier ' 
and, sitting down there, ^^rjjoyed the views and the sea 
air till our 'engine had turned round, when we got'" on ' 
board " again, and came back to our anchorage. 

When the sun was low, we resolved to give the salm- 
on another, chance, but by dinner-time the onlv ning 
caught was a small grilse, which I), got just before din- 
ner, and which we ate at once. We have most comfort- 
able bedrooms in the car, where we slept after we ha<J 
sat over a, Splendid camp fire outside. 

Friday, j///.— The morning fishing over, we set our 
engine g.img, and returned to Casaupscal in time for the 
eleven o'clock breakfast ; and very hungry we were for it 
^ in the afternoon every one set to work again, and I) 
caught one 28-pound salmon, and hVed one 26 While 
we were away he got one 25 iK,unds. so he has been the 
luckiest of the party. , '* , 

After dinner no. less than seven bonfires were lighted 
in our honor-^six on the opposite bank of the river and 
one nearer ;o us. They looked very bright in the 'dark 
night. " 

Saturday, ^///—Fishing unlucky-lnothing done in 
the morning; and at three we left in our special train 
very sorry not to spend a feW davs more, in this pleasant 
spot. ' • 

In about two houts we got to Rimouski, where there 
were a crowd and an address. We drove round the vil- 
lage, looked into a college and a convent, and returned 
to our car, where we refreshed our.selves with a cup of 
'Ti. ■ .■ ^'.'. f'' T^:"" ""'^^ "'^' ""^^^^'•^ ^^ had anof h..r 



iMliiitMiicaMaiSS,.^ 



CUi XXI 



July 1878 




cnicouTtffr. 



quay, where we found our own boat waiting for us iJic 
.s qu.te lovely : the hills ..re of most .curious and pictur- 
esque shapes, and I should think it a charming place to 
spend a summer in. We looked mto a great cave, where 
a party of Indians were burned, by their enemies lung'- 
ago-exchanged greetings with Mrs. Archibald Camp'- 
bel, «^ose children were firing a salute in our honor 
and who has a very pretty cottage here, and then got on 
board ^w.th the cure, a M. Sylvain, and some other visit- 
ors, who went over the DrunI, and then left us We re, 
ma.nedat anchor till twelve, and then, set off for Ta- ' 
do u sac. 

^ Monday, ^^We started u,, the Saguenay. At one 
we.began to f.sh.|^r trout, and by thrfte had caught about 
seven d5,2e.n betv^een us. In the evening, as we were 
anchored we gut a boat's crew to row round us, singmg 
the Canadian boat-songs. ' 

Tuesday, ^//J.-.Sir I^Yedcrick Graham and Fred'left 
us at Chicoutimi (^here we arrived earlv in the morn- ' 
nrg), and went (hv an expedition after laml-locked salm- 
on. I hey will camp. out for three ..r four day-^) 
Gwen, and I went by steamer to HaJIa IJav and ' 

getting mto a buggy, drove to the*A-Mas Riv,' 
capital sport here wit'h two good salmon, and v 
watclnng him^-ind looking at the salmon jumi 
leap. ' 

We returned to the /^/v//,/, dined, and sa 
In the night wt^ started again, and arrived at 
in the morning. 1 

ll'olnesday, /oM.—Went over our empty h* 
away our blankets, but left all our'nice furni 
shut It up^th^.- last time, I suppose, we shall 
place. I hate these good-bys. 



and th^e, 
•er. I), had 
we enjoyed 
iping ii|) the' 



ev 




K iiss €ll -otu|>lieiisMpr;innrTm--T^oar3ri^ 
for Quebec. .Unfortunately, the day was v 



we starter 
ery wet and 




iJS=,S>^isS3,£!lS^^^ 



i t. 



i^«. 



» If^-*" 






43^' 









M y CA A' A t>IAX JOURA'A L. 



M^fl^ ' 



CH. xxi 



cJisa^rreeable; hut the rain will put out the hush fires 
which are verj had just nuw at ihree Rivers. . The Mont- 
real boat actually had to turn back on account of the 
smoke. . 

Thursday, ////,._(;„t to Quebec early, anff came up 
to breakfast at the Citadel. I suppose we shall not 
a^nun spend a ni^riu in the dear old J),uiJ.. In the even- 
ing' we got a telcK^ram from Sir K. '1-hornton (Washing- 
ton), to say that two thousand roughs had left Buffalo 
and gone to Montreal to " help " on the i2tii. 

Friday, /.'///.—(Ireat anxiety felt in the morning as 
to what would happen fn Montneal. Three thousand 
troops are there, and the Mayor has two hundred special 
constables. 

At eleven fhe (Jeneral-telegraphed, "There will bene 
iwocession '•; ^nd the end of the whole thing was that 

^''^^^'^'■**'' '^lltei'" "'^' '^^f ^'''i^h declared the proces- 
sion 'fl^'j;;dj^ Pel ,.d the tnaYshaJs asithey came out of 
the Hall„^i^||^Q^,,[(,f ^^^ peojjle remained shut up 
the wiiole dajj^i'd m the evening were conveved home 
nrcabs. ^ We imffc this is the end of it. - 

Sunday, /yM.— Sir Frederick and Fred returned from 
a plea.sant expedition, but unsuccessful fishing. They 
came back in a boat full of Americans— forty-seven of 
the Maine Press Association^and had great fun, as 
,these people sang, and recited, and acted, and made 
speeches. 1'hey were all in church this morning, anci - 
we asked them to come up and 'See the Citadel and have 
tea. It was rather awful when they first arrived, as 
.there was no (me to introduce them, and they came in 
two and three together, all arm in arm. However, I cgt 
It short by going and shaking hands yvith every one," 
though they evident!/ did not consider this .an intro- ^l 
duction, as all afternoon they kept^ re-introducing me 
-oiie to trlw v»therr— — . . -— —- ^ 



i^- 



L 



■'Tf 



Jt'i.v 1878 



QUEBEC. 



433 



I hey said they were a large party, "all hiirmonious, 
'all serene, all beiU upon having a good time, aH ac- 
quainted since childh.KHJ." We walked about the plat- 
form, 'and they were much pleased when they-fuund they 
were admitted into the " innt-r circle," and that it was a 
private spot. They greatly appreciated our beaj^l 
view, and were interested in all we showed them. sKi 
we gave them tea and claret-cup, which thev see.ne^o 
enjoy; showed the Plains of .\braham, and then returned 
to the Citadel to say " (nnxl-hy." 

Foi-ty-seven people shaking hands quickiv. and all 
saying the same thing in a different form : •' Thank you 
for delightful entertainment";'" Most happy to have 
seen you " ; " Such a lovely time " -, " Wnxx huspitaHtV*" ; 
" The honor " ; " Hoi)e to see vou in the .States *:' •- " Will 
never forget"; HN-ever expected"; "The fcaiure .,f 
-our tour," etc. I smiled almo>^t too pleasantlv over t'his 
ceremony. 

' In the morning paper I see that "their K.xcellencies 
received the parties most gracu.uslv, and were (,uite as 
free from restraint as themselves." ()„e man told 
Fred to give his love to his mother, and tell her she had 
a good son. 

There was one very funny litlfe man who combed 
his hair in the drawing-room when he came in • but I 
never could talk to him, as some one was alwavs being 
introduced to me ■ \ - *. 



Saturdii\\ 20tfi. — We 



at eight. Directly after w 



were up curly, and breakfasted 



Graham off to England. Colonel ^ndMrs. I 
came down from Ottawa, andtt 



went down to see Sir Y. 
Jittleton 



I wa^ 



leir children sail to-day. 



very sorry to. say good.by to them, as 



other break-up of our life h 



It IS an- 



ere. 



,^L„tvygiYe. we h a r J La^xombmatiutt^ of l>Ft!a]. fa .t 



i.=»»*5^ 



1^ 



<^*' 



luncheon, no one having eaten niuchthis niorhing; and 



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434 ^fy CANADIAN JOURXAL. cir. xxi 

afterwards wc wctit over to tlie Ca.np, where we saw a 
little bit (,f a fo.x-lu.nt, and the gentlemen olayed lawn- 
tennis. 

The Littletons and Mr. Adams (son of the American 
Mnuster ni London during the War), with a friend and a 
young Mr. Potter (son of an English M. ]'.), dined with 
us. Mrs. Littleton and 1 were left till ,,,50 up-stairs 
ah.ne, the gentlemen having got into politics down- 
stairs. 

Tucuhy, .'.,V.-Mrs. Littleton, (Iwen, IJaby, and I 
drove out to Sillery, where the nuns received us most 
graciously, and then we went on to the Trie es, 'I'hey 
iuive a lovely place on the St. I,awrence, with some fine 
trees on the lawn and a good view of the river ; there are 
a nice old-fashioned house and (lower-garden, and we 
liad tea with strawberries and cream, and (lowers to 
take home. I), rode there, and found a game of tennis 
going on when he arrived. 

Tui'Sihi\\jotli.—\). remains another month, at the rc- 
(lucst of the Secretary of State. 

\Vi'J,n'Sihty,ji,t.~\\\^ made up our minds to go out 
for tea. so at four we drove olf to Spencer Wood, where 
we sat on the grass and admired the view, and on leav- 
ing were presented by the gardener with three imucpiets 
one for each lady. 'Ihe Littletons dined with us 

'I'lu' papers are full of 'Our New Covernor-Cen- 
t'ral."and all are delighted at the idea of having a 
Royal Princess iiere. 

Momhy, A„}^„st stfi.— W^x, R„„,..,n Catholic ilishops 
of the Province of Quebec, who had been assisting at 
the consecration of the Hishop. called. There were seven 
or eight of them, gorgeous in purple and gold Tne 
new Hishop of C'hi.'o.itimi (Racine) was one of the 
nicest. 

\\'c heard of the death of the Apostolic !h.!,Mr.-Uc I^'- 



L. 



cir. XXI 



■vliere we saw a 
(-■n played lawn- 

•f the American 

!i a fricml ami a 

I'.), (lined with 

11. 30 up-stairs 

politics duwn- 

1, liahy, and I 
ceived us most 
' Trie cs. 'I'liey 
with some fmc 
■iver ; there are 
(ardcn, and we 
111(1 (lowers to 
yame of tennis 

'iith, at the re- 

inds to );jo out 
r \\'ooiI. where 
', and on ieav- 
Iirce l)on(juets, 
with ns. 
iovernor-Cicn- 
of havinjr a 

lliolic Bishops 
ill assist injj; at 
ere were seven 
id K'old, The 
s one of the 



I).. I 






AUG. 1878 



ISLAXD Of- ORLEAXS. 



('on 



I 



roy, I?ishop„f Arda^di. He died in X 



am very sorry, as he was al 



ewf 



435 

otindland. 



and never seemed to he 1 



ways lonj,rinjr to jr^t | 



Kmu', 



cuts are alive, and will feel his deati 



with 



Tu,-s,/,n, 6//i.~.'r,n luhvard 'i 



iai)py over here. H 
1 terriblv. 



is old par- 



iis. and It rained— ponrcd in t 



iiornton came to stay 



ever, when in the afteri 
went out and sh 



ro|)ical stvle. Ho* 



""11 it chan^a'd to drizzh 
owed the town to .Si,- Kdward. A 



we went on hoard the DnaJ. and duicd tl 
were en>,rajre(i to attenil 



we 

t six 



icre, as we 



ance on the Island of Orl 



an amateur theatrical perfor 



m- 



have been cl 



cans. 



larmin-r i,ail th 



course the rain spoiled our pi 



'l"lu' e.\|)editi(.n would 
e weather heen fine, hut of 



part of it. \\ 
what had heen 



easure in all the yachtinj; 



anded at ei;;ht o'clock, and d 
X carpenter's shop, hut 



verted into a " Theatre Roval "• tl 



rove up to 
was now con- 



; tile " jrixen-rooin 



a tent, and the porch, in which the band stood 
of taroniilin 



dl 



;irpaulin 

I rushed throuj^h th 



was 

was made 



(lied up ni waterproofs and i 



is as one does whe 



sudd 
th 



enly founil myself, as I th 



s makin>4 for 



e presence of an aiuHence. I 



'ii«lit, 



11 one is bun- 
:i slu'ltiT, and 



M'"" the staj^e, ii 



and handed 



i>ut n)y wraps, allowed the ( 



jiiickly step|)ed back. 



era! to precede me. and made a proper and f 



trance 



•overnor-den- 



ormal en- 



but th 



Tlien r founil that it 



It ill front of the sta«e tl 



was the Mieatre I had ent.n I 



K'e there were banks of il 



ers. two little arbors in the corners, an.l seven I 
dressed m powder and Dolly \-arden .-ostumes 
111 t thmk how pretty they looked. 'Ih 



u\s - 

IjsMires 
\'ou 



spread with refreshments in the arl 
ese Dresden fi>rures ready t 



th 



in f 



ere were tal)les 

)ors, and liehind stood 

serve us; ami on stools 



ront were four children— two little jrjrls in cad 



ner — also In costunu 



tl cor- 



Wi 



icii we had stood for "God 



save the Queen," and 



43^^ 



MY C.IXAD/A.V JOURXAL. 



CII. XXI 



had seated ourselves in the armchairs prepared, a little 
powdered, cliina-lookiny; j,nrl came and handed me a 
heaiitifnl boiuiuet, and then another came with a painted 
pr()j,^ramme, and between the scenes the j^rown-up China 
brought us ices, cake, and claret-cup. The room itself 
was hunj,r witii llao;s, or rather lined with flags. The 
play was "She Stoops to Concpier," and it went olf 
very well. The Tony Lumpkin was admirable, and 
the prima donna was very handsome, and acted very 
well. She is a Mrs. Watson, and she had arranged 
the whole thing. 'I'he small figures got very sleepy and 
tired l)efore the end; but they atided greatly to the 
general effect, and amused us a good deal by the natural 
way in which they admired their own finery, and ex- 
amined even the soles of their feet and their colored 
heels. 

We went to the hotel afterwards, where we were 
given supper; so that by the time we got to the Citadel 
It was nearly two. 

W'cdiicsdaw ytli. — Actually fine weatiier ! so at eleven 
we went on board the nniid, a party of fourteen, and 
sailed for the Montmorency l-'alls. Th ere full of 

water, and were looking lovely. We 1 1 in i)',)ats, 

and our jiarty divided when we got ashv)re. Some went 
one side of the I'"all, some the other, aiul some sat down 
and sketched. 1 went to the left, and hiid a vcrv line 
view; but we got so wet with the sjiray that we soon 
iiad to move. 'I'he workmen there (lumbermen) would 
keep l)udding nie uj) substantial thrones in the very 
wettest places, and I alt obliged to try each one for a 
few minutes ; then we went off to see the saw-mills, and 
were weighed there. .About three o'clock, having thor- 
oughly enjoyed the sight of the beautiful Kail, we went 
on board again, A different but very acceptable sight 
was the deck, where h.mch.eo!! was spread ; wt- were all 



'- CH. XXI 

repared, a little 
I luiiuied me a 
e with a painted 
;r()\vn-iip C'iiiiia 
riic room itself 
itii llaj^^s. The 
11(1 it went off 
athnirable, and 
iiul acted very 
had arranged 
k'ery sleepy and 
greatly to the 
I by the natural 
linery, and e.\- 
d their colored 

liere we were 
. to the Citadel 

r I so at eleven 

fourteen, and 

■ ere full of 

1 in boats, 

e. Some went 

some sat down 

had a very fine 

that we soon 

bermen) would 

s in the very 

each one for a 

saw-mills, and 

k, having thor- 

Kall, we went 

coptable sight 

I ; w'- were all 



AUG, 1878 



CIIAUDILRE FALLS. 



437 



so h 



ungry. 



O 



ur 



C.'s, the Littleton 
M 



party consisted of ourselves and A. 1 ). 



s, Stephensons, Hcrv 



evs. 



Jud 



(I *> 



iss Johnston, Colonel Montizambert, the Spanish C 



and 



sul, and Sir V.. I'hornt 



on- 



on. 



T/iursihiy, ci'///.— Mrs. I,itt 



a steam-launch, so sh 



eton was offered the use of 



to 



go on an expedition with h 



e came uj) early, and invited us all 



)rmg the tea, and that we should 



er, arranging that ! should 



diere Falls. So after li 
—Sir K. Smvth and h 



go and see the Chau- 



and M. Chauv 



inch we assembled at th.e dock 
is son, the Littletons, ourselves 



eau 



lice-boat), who, it turned out 
W 



Iso the police-officer (it was tl 



lie 



was reallv the host. 



fright, 



puffed along cpiickly, and just had one litth 



when the funnel tumbled d 



thought the boiler wa 



lown, and of course I 



s going to burs' ; h 



soon put up again, and we i 
safety. 

We had to get out and 
in a scow; but we f-^nind 



owever, it was 



eacheil our destinatioi 



1 m 



cross 



th 



far off the waterfall 



e river (Chaudiere) 
everybody ignorant as to how 



mile 



s, and we trudged off t 



was ; some one told us it 



was two 



are not fond of walking 



o walk there. People here 



?. so at the .same t 



were sent to look for 

for when we had gone t 

a cottage how far it was to the waterf 

told " three mil 



line messengers 



)uggies; anil very lucky this waj 
wo miles in the rain, we askeil at 



111, and we were 



es more 



our carriages soon overtook us, and I), d 



a Jniggy, followed by all the oth 
We had one collision : going d 
behind u 
our wheel; bot 



rove me 1:1 
ers in various maciiines. 
"wii a hill, th 



s came too fast, and the h 



e carriage 



orse's leg got oxer 



n animals l)cing extremelv (piiet 
harm was done. The storm cleared awav, and whe' 



reached the Chaudiere th 
beautiful fall, and the shapes of tl 
which jut out into the f( 



no 

11 we 

e view was lovely. It is a most 



lie Slli-rriiiiwi 



rocks, 
>am are most picturestpie. We 



I 




438 



^/y CANADIAX JOVRXAL. 



CM. XXI 

had a great climb to reach tlie best point of view but 
when we got ihqre we sat directly opposite the Fall on 
a promontory of rock, and were able to admire thor- 
oughly the volumes of water and of sprav, and the rain- 
bows which shone through them. I), made a sketch and 
we sat Idle and enjoyed ourselves till M. Chau'veau 
called us to have the champagne with which he had re- 
placed my tea. 

We drove back to the scow, and crossed over to the 
aunch, which took us to Quebec in thirty-five minutes 
It was 8.30 when we got there, and bv the evening we 
were all extremely tired. 

Monday, 72i/,.-\\^ started at (.ne o'clock upon our 
tour in the Eastern T()wnshi|)s. 

After crossing the river in the steam-launch (steered 
by H.s Ex.), we landed at Port f.evi, and were i)resented 
with boucpiets on the way to our car. It is a (Irand 
Irunk pri..aecar, and is very comfortable. Our first 
stop was at Danville, where we were received by a guard 
of honor and a crowd, and were led to a carriage We 
got out at the Town Hall, had an address and a bou<|uet 
and were introduced to a few people; among them an 
old lady, who said my father's name had been a house- 
hold word in her family. 

We had i. drive through the town, which was prettily 
decorated, and saw thousands of peoi)le who had come 
in from the country. 

On our way back to the station I), spoke to an old 
Peninsular War soldier, who exhorted him to " go and 
conrpier Egypt," which, he .said, "we must have." 

Having spent an hour at Danville, we got into our 
car again, and proceeded to Richmond. A platform had 
liecn erected here, and an address was presented, signed 
by eleven Mayors. After being introduced to .some peo- 
ple, we hud lunch in the .station, and then dnrvc about. 



AL. 



CIl. XXI 



oint of view, but 
'Site the Fall, on 
' to admire thor- 
ray, and the rain- 
ade a sketch, and 
ill M. C.'haiiveau 
vhich he had re- 

ssed over to the 

rty-five minutes. 

the evening we 

''clock uj)on our 

i-launch (steered 
1 were presented 
It is a Orand 
table. Our first 
.'ived by a guard 
a carriage. We 
< and a boueiuet, 
umong them an 
1 been a house- 

licli was prettily 
who had come 

poke to an old 
lim to "go and 
St have." 
got into our 
A platform had 
csented, signed 
■d to some peo- 
il drove about. 



A'JG. 1878 



sherbrook'e. 



D. had four horses, but I d 
is settled out here) with a | 



rove with Lord .\\\ 



\\ 



)air, 



439 
mer (who 



e visited a college, and saw tl 



a V 



eiL' 



ery good band at the stat 



ht 



years < 



.1(1. 



le town. The 
■on. with a little I 



re was 



)OV o 



most grave and preoccupied air. 



I" iinilorni, playing the cvmbal 



f 



s with a 



Sherbrooke was the stat 



a most magnifuenl reception it 



i"ii we reached ne.xt 



and 



whe 



n we arrived, ami from the rail 



«ave us. It was dark 



manufactories and hot 



pane. 
W 



els with lighted candl 



way ul' saw large 



cs in every 



hen we stopped the Receot 



on board, and presented Mrs. I.ittl 



ption Committee ca 



me 



bouquets; then we stepped 



bef( 



)re us a line guard of ii 



lantiv 



c-toii and me with 

on to a platform, and saw 

onor, a great crowd, a brill- 



■■k^lited building, and a (pianlity of torch-b 



m red undorm (the Fire Hrigade). .After th 

and re|)lv we started 

th 



carers 



e address 



ree or four hundred torciies and i 



m a carnagt-and-foiir, escorted by 



ing of soldiers), to drive tl 



tifullv i 



exceedingly gratifvinu- t 



irough the t 



a crowd (to sav noth- 



luminated and decorated, and th 



'\Mi. Itwasbeai 



(General ! I 



«: to an almost defunct { 



e reception was 



•overnor- 



arch 



■"list trust to a newspai)er to describe th« 



es, the lights, tJie \ 



Jiises, the procession shoot 



inoiis devices for d 



rection, for I have not t 



"hh: lip rockets i 



Iccorating 



n everv di- 



must mention one arch dedicated 



Kut I 

by lad 

mounting it, with "Welcome t 



ime to enter into particul 



;irs.. 



les; it had an enor 



to nic, and made 



side, and " Kind hearts better th 



mous coronet of Ho 
o our ('ounte^ 



:ss 



wers, sur- 
on one 



other. One arch wa 
and was very prettv 



:in coronets" on the 



s an imitation of a (;othic arch 



way, 



We drove, with the crowd and the torches 
tng us. to Mr. Urooks's gate, where they left u 



surround- 



W 



e are staying with .Mr. and Mrs. Brooks. H 



29 



c is an 



t 



?i 



'il 



Iff 



i ■; 







440 



AfV CANADIAN JOURXAL. 



CH, XXI 



the, have a very n,ce house and pretty grounds The 
house >s new. and had not yet been papered; but Mrs 
Hrooks has ornamented her walls in a very eff ctive wav 
by P.nn.ng dried ferns and leaves upon theL. () e tZ 
room w.th a polished floor had our monograms p r t r ', 
^l-;nft.es of flowers, and a welcome it rhvm' on its 

We had had supper, and went to bed soon after 

lucsday, /jM.-The sun shone brilliantly at break- 
fast-time ; ra.n poured from ten till four, all the time we 
were out; and then it was beautifully Hne the rest of tie 
evennig. "^ 

We drove into SherI,rooke early, and visited first a 
fine new bank, just built; we admired especially he 
burglar-proof safe, with a lock which, when Lt to a pa 
cu ar hour, can be opened by neither friend nor foe un- 

aw thesTli";'"" ''"'', ' '' "^'^"' '''' '"'' ^^^-^'"". 

ten 0^:7;;"" "''"'' '■■ "^^^■'"^^••>'' ^'"d ^he horse 
step out. and fall into their own places in the various 

fire engines After this we went to a convent, whe e 
there were a little singing and an address ; and to a gre 

fine cloth I, '" ^'" "''"^" ''''''' -"---^-l into 

hne cloth. I), was presented with the material for a pair 

After seeing everything, D. made a speech to the 
operatives, and we proceeded to I^ennox ville In t .e v N 
la^e there were an address, a platform, and the i^u I 
etceteras and at the College and Schoo the me 1 
js one of the best English schools in Canada, bTt the 
boys were away for the holidavs. Two rivers mss bv it 
am. the country round is real' country, aiur^e " .' tv' 
We had about four miles to drive back to theliuse of 



AtTc. 1878 THE EASTEI^A; TOWXSHirs. 

n.f.cc,u rapid and sp,.,„„d .,;,;•',„,;:/'"""•■ 
m=nya„rca, KnglisI, landlmkler would t-'vehw 
to possess i„ his park Mr ami T u , '"""'"^ 
-"ch, and showed us ,he pLx ,uT, r""7 '^'"■''' '" 
*-,p. My petticoat was w t and n„ K "V ''" "'^^^ 
summery «ow„ wasou. of ptace b" i » ",'-' "■'•' 

<".. A. „. C's unlined suit ,!, t s;or ,i,l ""Th;." ""*•' '" 
bejran to look very limp and stickv a,' I ,, ^ """"■' 
time I looked at him ' '•''"='' """"y 

youn, ladies c.in, i„. The dau.ht f .e h^u e"a 

nice, pretty ^nrl, is M„t „ut yet ' ^ 

F). and the Colonel have to spend the ni«ht in the 

a.". I hey meet Mr. Macken^ie* at Riehnu.nd o 

business i,etween the hours of twelve and tuo, .u d 

turn here for breakfast in the morninjr ' ^ ' 

/^vW,,v, v//._Hed.time. I seize a few minutes 
to try and de.crihe the doings of a verv pleasant dv 
The weather was perfect, and we I.egan the mor in ' 1 y 
be,n,. photo,.raphed in,. roups at the door of Mr. i i -^ 
^ouse ; then I planted a tree 

VVe were to have left l>y train at ten oVl,>c-k, hut the 
e.raph ad broken down, and the necessarv a^su L e 
that the hne ,s clear " could not be obtained At hst 
tbey managed in some roundabout way to get" the n e 



i.| 



■The I' 



rcmier. 




442 



MY CANADIAX JOURXAL. 



CH. XXI 



MfMur'av' ^"' "" '" '"" " '""'" "" ^^^^^^-t to 

We went for about half an hour in the train to his 

house on Mas.snv.ppi Lake. He has only just bui t t 

-t already it is surrounded by Unvns and' llo J r .;. 

dens, and has from its windows a beautiful v.ew of Uie 

Mr. Murray introduced us to his wife and children 

came to Sherbrooke, enjoy-.ng in„nensely the view of the 
Lake and of the well-w, oded countrv 

house before we .set off again to drive to C.mpton 1) 
and I and Fred ^Vard were in a verv nice ^^ t 
others ollow.ng in t.-o more vehicles. ' U . drov^ n/t 

At the village of Compton there were both English 
and trench addresses, and I), replied to both Mr 
Cochrane met us with a drag and four horse He 
I'ves two miles from the viUa-e and h-.. -. i .? 

f'lPMi H« ; 1- , ^"'''^f, anu Has a wonderfu 

farm. He >s one of those people who get a thousnnd 
pounds for a calf, a hundred pounds for a pig et, 

Ihe house and farm-buildings look so colnfortable 
and there .s a n.ce conservatory, flower-garden and 
tenn.s-ground in front .f the house. We arr ved abo 
seven o-cU>ck, and after being introduced o M 
Cochrane, went up to dress. There were eight en peo: 
pie at dmner, and we sat out on the veranda a er 
ward, the grounds being illuminated with ^^^, 

\ye have very comfortable rooms, and Mr. Cochrane 
h taken n. our whole party. Mr. and Mrs. B o k 
dn.ed here, and we said good-by to them afterwards 



AUO. 1878 



STAXSTEAD. 



443 



about .he neld, ,„„,.,„ „ cln^ ':;:;""" 
I here is a cow li.^re ,-.11 1 ■,■ '"" '^"^tlaiul ponies. 

whicM.. „,..:;:: :;r ,.;;;•;'-.,,..»„, ...,,, 

the country are ouit,. ,„■ t " ^ ''^ ^''^^^-s over 

vina;:;^,;:;;^,,:^.!::;:;:': ;:': - ^ ;■- - ^ 

lected to meet i„ l, i ' *- "'" """'' ^acl e„l- 

a..U was vet, i;:,,, I ; ;.:-;:-■■'.; ^'--U vi„a,, 
the addresses „„ ,„ ,.,,.'" ' ""■ ''''"' "'"<^^»- --^fter 

walked .„ ,heM , ■rf""""";""""'"' >"•"'-"• - 
tea „ef..e ,.r,vi ^^ I,""";,';' "^- -; '-< a e„„ .f 

lighted up. "'" *■'""''■". "I'i'-h was 

■■c.tM;;^'t7,^7.'•;"''" ';'-^'-^^'' '-■^■•'--ai'- 

married daug er (Mrs ""t' "" '■''''"■■'•"• ""'< "" 

'-" ti.e gall ,r, ■';;"?*• "" """ "■"■ i""^- "- 
i-utiruietuntr .1';; ;?"",, r;:; ";,;;;;" ■- ".-.'h 

village, where we iv.rl , ,"''tle>_a nice little 

to Stans.ead ""■"' """ ""^ "^"=" ''<™'rs- 

«ot "the:: iri:';M''m.i"?T "'^' '-''■='"- -e 

a little o,„ „f ' :,, ' ""^'■- ■•■"". ""<-^- we we„t 
Mo..n,ains,„„„d, „;/;;' I'',." ''I"--'^'^'"'- '"- view. 

--ned ,„ make J,, T ,:;:;; '"rs:.::;-;"";^'"^" '» 



Iff here. Mr. Clolh 



US, and drove before 



V. th 



e member for .Sta 



us into the towi 



iislead, met 



ii 



At its entrance 




444 



My CAXADIAN JOUHNAL. 



CH. XXI 

we found a large corps Of firemen, some in blue some in 
ed,awa,t,n,.us,ancl the foremost presented wki a 
1 arp .nade of water-lilies from the ladies of the place 
Ihen the firemen and their band marched before u and 
we kept slowly behind them, my team behavi^'adm ra 
bly, considermg all things ^ aumira- 

extreme of the fash.on^splendid m silks of blue and 
ol.ve-green, red and pink, etc., and waving in each hand 
^^^f^^uT"^''; ''^' -- Ameri'.ns,:.:i;^ 

;2;e:ted;;'^^^'^^ -' - '''-'■ ^^-^'-^ -"^'^^ -- 

l.ve'lnirthf " ^"'' ."" "" '""'"' ''''' ^'^^^ Americans 
■V e half the year m Canada and half in the States We 

undK-d w.th Mr. and Mrs. C. Pierce, and the beautifu 
Kd.es came over to h... house here, and the Governor of 
Wmont Mr. Fairbanks) met us. Mrs. Fairbanks ad 
sen me a bouquet. They were five widows, all sisters 
or daughters of his. 

whe.e there were two addresses. I), having replied and 
havmg ha a little joke, which was h.ghl^ap reclkted 
o^cr the American Protection laws, made the people 

tZ 'Jr/'^'^'^^'' ^' ''-' United States and thi G ! 
ernor of v ermont. 

We shook hands with a number of people afterwards, 
and then got mto three buggies and drove twelve miles 
more to Georgeville, up and down mountain.s, to Lake 
Memphremagog, where Sir Hugh Allan's steamer met 
us; and m her we spent an hour and a half going to 
Magog, where I now am, and where we arrived about ten 
o Clock. W e were drawn a mile up to the hotel bv hov« 



^vn. 1978 z^A-^ ^^f£^Vi>//J?£.UAGOG 

445 
and sold.ers replied to two addresses, admired the illu 
m.nat.on o every window, and were too „u.!h t.ed to 
eat the good food provided for us 

We said "(iooj-by- to Mr. Cochrane at Stanstead 
Our visit to h.m was extremelv pleasant ^'^"•^^^'^^• 

^^W.- Safun/^n, /7//..-(),r hotel' is an ordinarv 
country inn, and the view from the windo^is no" re 

r Su ';r;;:' ^'^'i '] ^"^ ^-"^ ^^^ those-wL :w 

Hn.h ; '■ T'^^'^' ''-^'^'^ '^'''^' ^■^"'•>' fi»e views. Sir 

Hugh A, an came for us at ten, and we steamed up the 
lake in h-s yacht seeimr iii u, . i ' 

magog. ^ '"- ^"^"^'"'^ '^f Memphre- 

The two ends of the lake are uninteresting, but there 
IS a fine mountain in the center, called the (tr He .d 
and some of the scenery about there is beau f ,1 1' 
Hugh s own place is perfect ; it is almost < an it), 'j 
Ihe house is placed on the top of -, hjM, h li 

-ooth g.ss slope up to it is pL^ed wl; U^^ 

Ihe forests of wood on either sir!*, tu . 

church, and were nrearh.vl t„ J , • "''^^^"^to 

He,.heHi.,„;::;t:HX::47;;;:\f^ 

They br„t,gl,t „s ,|,e photographs taken of the frroun 



jr my Canadian collect 



ion. After d 



inner 



446 



My CAXAD/AX JOUKXAL. 




CH. XXI 

we spoke to some of the people staying in the hotel who 
had helped to decorate it for us 

J/War /^//, _We left Magog by train for Bolton 
w ere Mr. Huntu.gton has a country place. The v i'v' 

>e has fne akes .vthn, three miles, one does not catch 
a glimpse of them from the vvin.h.ws. 

An address was presented l,y the neighbors, while -i 
very smartly dressed ban.l plavcd to us 

In the drawing-room was a very handsome decora- 
t.on-the arms of Kngland n,ade in flowers. M,-s H ^ 

J"Rton IS very nice, and she iKul four .American' vog 
lad.es staymg with her. U e had a verv pleasant u 

and soon a.ter continued our journev to Waterloo 

'''r->-'--f^'i what these small towns do to welcome 
.s. ^^^'^-om^'toa place of 4.000 inhabitants, and (Ind 
regiments turned <,ut. bands, arch after arch ,1-. „ 

erected. Ilagsaiul all the country collected J^^^^ 
Waterloo really gave a very Hne reception. The plat- 

orm was well-made and c..nvenient, L ^ 
and I but the whole .Staff, were presented with bou 
;i-ts In- little girls dressed in while. Thence! ^ 
sp -echcs. and such cheers ! The village has an KnglisI 

.nha,tantwh<. prides himself upon his M.urrah,-':^ 
\Mi<> led the applause. 

\\V drove round the town in a procession, and I am 
surel), ,, ,,,,^.,,„^,,^^^ 

"" y aivhes ! Here are some of them ; - \-„tre seiou 
;■-' anada fournira une 1^ 

Hiuueiuie la compagne de celui <|ui a compiis notre 

affection" " To Canada's favorite Ruler." .'Farewell 

<.hnn.-I,o has won, he hearts of all Canadians." •• -^ 

vnnte of the people." ■•Canada's Pride." " II est la 

«lc..re du Canada." •• Prudence. Energy. Chari y " 



^^- CH. XXI 

J in the hotel who 

train for TJolton, 
')la{:c. 'I'lie view 
*ama of mountain 
•it, for, altiioiij^li 
t' does not catch 

ei^iilxTs, while a 

iiHisome (lecora- 
tTs. Mrs. Mimt- 
American voiniir 
• pleasant linich, 
' Waterloo. 
IS do to welcome 
>itants, and luul 
•irch, platforms 
'ted to meet us. 
;i"ii. The plat- 
id not only I). 
nted with hou- 
I'hcn there were 
has an Kn)i>iish 
" Hurrah," and 

'>*'<'n. and I am 
d the mottoes 

" \'()tre sejour 
otre histoire," 

con(|nis notre 
." "Farewell 
idians," " I'u- 
." "II est la 
Sy, Charity." 



Aeo. 1978 r//£ £^S7V:A'X Toirxs/f/rs 

447 
" Eternal sunshine settle on his head " • If,, i .. , . 

»e <l„u.,l a,ul sl,.|„ i„ „„r |„|„ia| ,,r. ami a ,„ mm, 

;e .,.»•„, I„u , «, „„ ,„. ,,a.,„r,„ a,ul . , 

cn,,™„„sl,„a,,„l,,,rni,,«i,,,,,,,,,,,dl.,,f,,,es . 

vn/:n,r;:;r •"■?'■'""' '"^'^^^ >•• ■'■'--'".». 

\n\ small place, where a wonderfullv nr.Mv ,- 
was nrcn-.r,.,i 'i-i 'ti'iiiiv pritl\ leception 

y- prepared I|,ere .s a line Town-Hall, which w.s 
1-orated w,th .lowers. ,n front of ,he ta-e " 

^e^u-pofnowers,wh: we afterwanis p^J ;:; 
the end of ou, t,,,,„ .„ ,,^. ^ >' 

-^- a Ion, speech here nU.:n.,.h. and :lho tor: 
I-rench.and then we drove round the viila.a. .nd u 
mired its dec-.u-ations Th,- ,,.,-1, 
shapes. "'^ -"^ f>- were o, very pretty 

He s|>e.,ks ex lem|,„re, an,l |„.„|,le m, ,,,„, 

;,.'"''" "•" '""■ "exl |,„i„l, a,Hl it «as ll,e eiul „f 

..ne l,a,uls,„„e s.ree. was wJ,MW .leo. , ' ' 
ever,. wm„I.,w wa, .„„ „f „„„,„, ;,; ^ „ ' ' ' 

^rove,,, v,s„ a l„„ul.„,u. R,„„a„ (a,!,,,!,.. cl,„r, 1, u . 



M)e<:miensofthework. The -iris read 



Ifave me a b(iU(|uet, \\ 



me an aiklress and 
e also saw the Kn^lish Cluireh 



i 



W^mii^m^aasa^- 




448 



A/y CANAD/AX JOUKNAL, 



rH. XXI 

and the old barracks, and then g<,t into onr train, and 
started on a little holiday trip. 

We stopped at Plattsbur^r. ;vl,ieh is in the States, and 
slept on board the Vermont, a ma^^nificent steamer, on 
Lake Champlain. 

IVcJncuiay, .v./._We awoke " at sea " on Lake ('ham- 
plam, and after breakfast sat on deck and enjoyed the 
scenery T.conderoga is reached at one, and we in,- 
nied.ately j(ot into a train, which in twenty miniites d.s- 
Roryedits i)assenjrers on Lake (Jeorge. 

This is a smaller and a very lovely lake too; but I 
prefer Lake Champlain. as the mountains are more dis- 
tant than they are at Lake (Jeorge, where the hills rise 
stra^du rom the water. All alon,. the Lake are little 
hotels, where we stopped and exchanged travelers. At 

Henrv 'a " '"^''' "'" "'""' ''' ""^ ^'-tination, Fort 
Henry. As soon as the steamer touched there was a 

the house i ley had gone to secure the outside places 
-ya nun.ber of coaches which stood there, and we al 
going on to C.len Falls and .Saratoga 

^^e took a ,pnet drive in a carriage, conducted l,v . 
coachman who has held his office for f., r ;; lut 
who .s now only twelve years old. and ve^ s ^ ' w 
^nc a te,,,,, Such dresses ! and sud. hats to 

v" th . T,'""'"'*'' amused_in a melancholv way 
-by the chMdren. They were dressed out with t e 

nusim and lace dresses, the best of .olored silk stock- 

n>.^s, and b....ts with large bows to match ;stK-hc Is 
and fans, and bracelets : and. ab,.ve all. su-hrr"i 
such conscousness of deserving admiration! T '"y 

; ' I ften sat alone at a table, the girls looking twenty 
'"Hi the i,oys rather naughty and undisciplined This 



AL. 



rn. XXI 



to our train, and 

11 the States, and 
cent steamer, on 

" on LakeCham- 
iiul enjoyed tlie 
)iK', and we ini- 
nty minutes dis- 

lake too; hut I 
IS are more dis- 
'e the hills rise 
■ Lake are little 
I travelers. At 
fstination. Fort 
-il there was a 
raced towards 
' outside i)Iaees 
e, and were all 

•oiidurted by a 
our years, hut 
L'ry small. \\q 
uch hats to be 
lelancholy way 
out with the 
ricent silk and 
red silk stock - 
h ; such curls, 
such airs, and 
>ii ! Tile way 
y themselves, 
lokinjr twenty 
'plitRHl. This 



AUG. 1878 



lAA'E CIlAAfPLAIN. 



youn-r j,a-neration I 



and 



110 object but d 



'vi'ijs^ its hotel-life 



startling phenomenon. 
\\'e came in f, 



'■t-'ssmg itself and 1 



449 

with no duties 



1 



<'r a verv 



Ko/ 



my lit 



<^'. of the Italian Opera, lu 



'citiK' admired, 



Rood concert whi, |, M 



IS a 



irie 



•'1'1'cncd to be giving to- 



Thursday, 22ii.~\.i,h the h 



I^ake Cieorge 



'••sited the old Fort bel 



^^^ain, and on to '1 



«'tel early, and came do 



icondcroga, where 



wn 
we 



agam. 



"■•egomgon board the /W, //.,,/ 



^\'c had another pi 



plam, and got on t 

our way to Montreal. There'l f 

for which 1 have 1 

our last Canadian ' 



pleasant journey down Fake CI 
o our car, ni which 



lam- 



«c |)roceeded 



oui 



Safu/uA 



'ilW 



to return home at 



-V//.— r re 



>ecn piniii^r ;i|j ^ 
official •' tour. 



'^' >uy Fnglish lett 



on 



crs. 



ic week. So end 



ed 



ccived letters which obi 



"ic to have to 1 
very nn'serable. 



once. It is a great d 



eave I), and ( 



ige me 
'^appointment to 



W'en, and it niad 



\v us all 



^''nJtiy, jof/i.—\\ 



good-l 



telescope 



y to the men, and t 



e went down to the /;//,/,/ 



to 



present the Capt 



sav 



am with a 



'I'h 



e improvement 



made at Otiebcc. 



s which I) 



nnd 



cl 



with a view t 



suggested should I 



>e 



K'ltes, its picturcs(| 



o preserving its old walb 



liiracter, have been I 



"« appearance, and it 



promises to becon 



H'«:un. and the " Dufferin 'I 



world 



'^- one of the loveliest walk 



s ancient 



errace' 



in tht 



•V.A///;v/,n-, j/j/.—A fi„..,i 



my happy Canadian life; and 



gOO(l-I)y to Ouel 



to I), and (Jwen. '|'| 



go(»d- 



H'c, and to 



!'•»">' me, an<| to fire a salute i 



e H Mattery turned 



i)V also, f 



. 'or a tune, 
out to accom- 



left th 
I 



c wharf they all cheered fr 



'■ 'lie, and after the sh 



>ers of ncMiW 



^'"'■ly in the nu 



I'!*' 'ame dcmn to the steame 



o'n the Citadel. \u 



P 



m- 



'Hiing that I left 



'■» though it was 



(i 




450 



A/y CANADIAX JOURXAL. 



CH. XXI 

In one c.f his farewell speeches in Canada D. said : 

s<^e v'^'J""' "' "' ^"'" ' ''-''' •"'"^'-' -^'^ vour 

e t 1 m^se;" '"" '"■''""■ ^'"'■^^ "^^ '^^'^'''"-' inter- 
ested myself in your afla.rs and business, become one of 

you u. t ought and feeling, and never have I e c ^i • d 
at your hands, whether n. my ,n,blic or in my ^ a ' 

;rnH :"''"'" '" '^ ^'"^'•^^^ -nslderaU r 
most nuiuigent sympathy, and the warmest welcome" 
1 h.s be.ng so truly the case, no wonder that althcn.gl. 



AftcT 1 ..ft. I), received a deputation, consisting of the chief 
omce, o, .. I the .nunicipaiities of Ontario, who canl to Qu ec 
tc. present Imn w.th a joint address. The ceren.ony took place 
on the pi.u .,r„, at .ho Citadel, and the deputations arrived pre 
ceded by three Highland pipers <iressed in .he tartans of t r 
respecve elans. In his reply to them he spoke much of the 
Prmcess Louise and LonI Lome, and said .hat. with re^rard to 
the L.tter. he only knew of one fault-- of one conge.uial defect 
wh.rh attached to his appointment as (;overnor-(-.eneral of 
Cana<la-he was not .ui Irishman." .Sever.,1 other addresses 
were presented to I)., and he was made a Doctor of the I iv d 
Cniversitv. " ' 

La.<M- he went to Toronto to open a provincial exhibition, and 
whilst there he visited institutions and m;ide a number of speeches 
I' was at this time that he suggested in a letter to the (iovernor 
'•r New ^ork State fh.it the Covernments of Canada and of the 
I nited Stales shoul.l join together to create an International Park 

.>t Ni.ig.ra: that the troublesome touts .ind stpiatters. with their 

»iu eoiis sh.-inties and wooden huts. should begot rid of; and that 
< !'• lo'... itv should be restored to its pristine condidon of wild 

l^^.-d secluded be.iuty," This project has since been .arried out. 

and the isl.inds in the Ni.igara River have been called after 



A'^Z. 



CH. XXI 



n Canada D. said : 
mingled with your 
nd pastimes, inter- 
ess, become one of 
t-T have I received 
■ (»r in my private 
consideration, the 
armest welcome." 
(icr that although 
>f the most miser- 



1878 



LAST DAYS. 



451 



johnMacc,ona,d„noct.;,er.^.:';;r;;::;;:r 

'- sailed fron, Qu h ' . VtT.'"' 7^" "" "'"'"'■^ ">"^ 

'ron. thec.t.ensi„d re. ^ ^, ^ ^"■^"' ^ "-" -'^-- 



insisting of the chief 
iho came to Quehec 
eremony took place 
I'alioris arrived, |)rc- 
Ihe tartans of their 
spoke much of the 
hat, witii regard to 
le congeiiiial defect 
overnor-Ceneral of 
ral other addresses 
Joctor of the Laval 



icial exhihition, and 
uimher of speeches. 
LT to the (Jovernor 
Canada and o( the 

International Park 
piatters. with their 
ot lid of; and that 
; condition of wild 
e l)een carried out, 

been called after 



•v-^ 









MU 



tv^ 



y 



|4>^H 



40U 






^\ 






»««p 



V(r«ahu 



80 




to«igitttd»vr«tt 90 of Qr«w.wieli. 



MFW Yi'WK, 1.'. AI'l'MCTOM 3c CV 




lOiigitMAB vr^tt 90 of Graanvieh.. 



A' Y' MvK. 1 '. Ai'i 'ii-yroH a- 



I N 1) E X . 



Alaska, 287. 
Alert Bay, 290. 
"Alexander Camp," 183. 
Alkali I'lains, 26.5, 266, 317. 
Allendale, 172. 
A-Mas River, 431. 
Andrew's (St.), 355, 369. 
Anne (St.), Falls at, 168. 
Anthony (St.), Falls, ,^0. 
"Artemisian Desert," 263. 
Assiniboine River, ^v»6, 347. 
Assmaquaghan, 429. 

Baker, Mount, 275. 

Baltimore, 223. 

Barrie, 172. 

Bedford Hasin, 106. 

Belleville, 212. 

Bergeron, 12. 

Berlin, 198. 

Bersimis, 89. 

Bic, 426, 430. 

Birch River, 378. 

Bolton, 446. 

Boniface (St.), .^g. 

Boston, 224, 423 ; Bunker's Hill, 224 ; 
Harvard Collepe, 224, 422 ; Dor- 
chester Heights, 225 ; Uplands, 

425- 
Bar, 298. 
Bow I'ark, 202. 
Bowmanville, 210. 
Bracebriclge, 176. 
Brantford, 202, 199. 
Breton, Cape, 104. 
Brockville, 214. 
Brute's Mines, 179. 
Buckingham, 245, 247. 



1 Buffalo, 41. 
; Burlin^;t(in, 260. 
I Hurrard's Inlet, 293. 
I Bute Inlet, 2.S1. 

I 

! Cd'^he Creek, 305. 

Cacouna, 10, 427. 

California, 268. 

Cainpbt'lltown, 430. 

Cap Rouge, 36. 

Cariboo, 305. 

Carlelon I'lace, 215. 

Casauiiscal, 426, 427. 

Catherine's iSt. ', 205. 

Chaleur, Bay of, 99. 

Cliamplain, Lake, 448, 449. 

Charlotte Town, lui. 

Chatham, 100, 194. 

Chaudiere Falls, 6, 30, 153, 437. 
River, 437. 

Cheyenne, 262, 321. 

Chicago, i8g, 259, 316, 398. 

Chicoulimi, 166, 431. 

Clair (St.) River, 195, 323, 398. 

Coaticook, 443. 

Coburg, 210, 258. 

Coliax, 267, 317. 

CoIlingwo(Ki, 178. 

Compton, 442. 

Couchiching Lake, 173, 174. 

Cowansville, 447. 

Dalhousie Bay, 99. 
Danville, 438. 
Dartmouth, 105, 114. 
River, 94 ; " Lady's Steps" rapids, 

95- 
Dawson, route, 370. 



I 



454 

Hean's Corner, 2;i5. 
Denver ^21. 
Detroit, 19,, jgg. 
Devil's Gap, 179. 
Slide, 264. 



Echo Canon, 264. 
Emerson, 345. 
Esquima'jit, 273, 279. 
Eternity Ciiff, 165. 
Etienne (St.), 13. 
Evanston, 263. 

Father Point, 236. 
Fisher's Landing;, 342, 398, 
Flattery, Cape, 273. 
Fort Alexander, 378. 
Garry, 346, 395. 
Henry, 44S. 
Huron, 19O. 
Simpson, 284. 
William, 185. 
Eraser River, 294, 296, 306. 
Frodericton, 120. 
Fremont, 261. 
Fundy, Bay of, 115. 

Gait, 199. 

Garden River, 180. 

Gaspe, 93, 156, 164, 250, 419. 

Ga:ineau River, 144 ; rapid? 

152 ; saw-mills, 15;. 
George, Lake, 448, 449. 
Georgeville, 444. 
Georgian Fay, 279. 
Gimla, 382, 386, 
Godbout River, 87. 
Godcrich, 197. 
Granby, 447. 
Grand Falls, 121. 
Forks, 398. 
Island, 261. 
Gravenhurst, 175. 
Green Mountains, 226, 
Grenville, 418. 
Guelph, 199. 



ArV II XA DIAX JO CRXAL. 



Gut of Canso, 10.3. 



fif' fi 



Haha Bay, 165, 431. 

Halifax, 105. 

Hamilton, 37. 

Harrisburg, 199. 

Hastings, 211. 

Hat ley, 443. 

i Jell's Gate, 298. 

High Bluffs, 394. 

Hocheiaga, 66. 

Hope, 296. 

Horn, Cape, rounding, 267. 

Houses, 394. 

"Hudson's Bay settlements," 91. 180, 

3X4; Fort, 180. 
Huron, Lake, 187, 195. 

Indian Reser\'e, 2a,, 358; Mohawk 

Church, 200. 
Ingersoll, 203. 
International Park, 450. 
Irvington, 221. 



Jacques Cartier River, 27. 
John (St.), 115, 1,58, 422,447. 

River, 95, 119, j2o. 
Jo.seph (St.), Lake, 24. 
Joseph, Lake, 17O. 

Kamanistiqwa River, 186. 

Kamloops, 303 ; " Powwow "at, 303. 

Keewatin, 371. 

Killarney, 178. 

Kingston, 7, 171, 203, 398. 

Lachine Rapids, 7, 95. 

Lake of the Woods, 373, 

Laprairie, 7. 

Lawrence (St.), 3, •2..,, rcS v:^^ ^3^ 

Lennoxville, 4^ . 

Lievre (Le), R...,, _^^ ; rapids, 245. 

Fall, 246. 
"Little Stone Fort," 356. 
London, 42, 43, 204 ; " Victoria 
Park," 204. 



Ill 



INDEX. 



Louis (St.), 322. 
Louisburg, lo,^. 
Lytton, 299, 305. 

Mackinaw, 187. 
Maj,'og, 444, 445. 

River, 441. 
Manitoba, 396. 

Lr-.ke, 390. 
Manitoulin, 179. 
Marguerite Kiver, 16; rapids, 16; 

salmon fishing, 18. 
Maritime Provinces, 117. 
Massiwippi, Lake, 442. 
McNab's Island, laS, m. 
"Meech's Lake," 154. 
Mempliremagog, Lake, 444; Owl's 

Jlead, 445. 
Mennonite settlement, 360. 
Metapediac River, 426, 427. 
Metlacatlah, 283, 287. 
Michigan, Lake, 187, 1S8, 259, 338. 
Michipicoten Island, 180. 
Miller's Landing, 251. 
Mingan River, 96. 
Minneapolis, 339. 
Minnehaha Falls, 340 ; Fort, ,340. 
Minnesota River. 340. I 

Miramichi River, loo. I 

Mississippi River. 260, 323, 340, 341. 
Missouri River, 260, 322, 323. 
Mitchell, 197. 

Montmorency Falls, 8, 123, 4-56. 
Montreal, 8, 59, 81, 226, 24,, 323, 

324, 402, 405, 415. 
Mount Royal Park, 406; banquet, 

406. 
Muri -' Bay, 167. 

River, 168. 
Musknka Bay, 175. 
Lake, 175. 

Nanaimo, 280 ; coal-mine, 280, 
Napanee, 213. 
" N.irrna-,," the, £73,253. 
New Edinburgh. 49. 

3c 



455 



New Liverpool, 30. 

Muskoka Grant, 176. 

Westminster, 294, 306. 

York, 217, 221. 
Newcastle, 100. 
Newmarket, 172. 
Niagara, 39, 205. 

Nipigon. 180; River, 181; rapids, 
'■'^.l ; "portages," 183. 

Lake, 183. 

Northwest An„'le, 372. 
Northwest Arm, 106. 

Oaklands, 267. 
Ogden, 265, -17,320. 

Cai'ion, 265. 
Omaha, 26:1. 

Ontario, Lake, 37, 171, ao8. 
Orange Valley, 221. 
Orillia, 173. 

Orle-ms, Island of, 422, 4:ji;. 
Ottawa, 4, 47, ,S3, ,49, 2,5, ^,0^ 3^,^ 

256, 325. .U2, 397- 402. 
Owen Sound, 178. 



Paris, 203. 
Parry Sound, 177. 
Paspediac, 99. 
Paul(St.), 341,3,3,3^. 
Pembina, 344 ; Fort, 344. 
Perc6, 97, 98. 
" Petrolia " oil-wells, 42, 
Philadelphia, 323, x!,^ 
Pictou, 103. 
Platte River, 261. 

Valley, 261. 
Plattsburg, 448. 
Point Levi. 438. 
Port Hope, 210. 
Portage La Prairie, 39^. 
Prescott, 5, 83, 178, 237, 258, 333. 
Pre.squ'ile, 178. 
Preston, 199. 
Prince Arthur's Landing, 184. 

Edward's Island, 8i, loo ; coal- 
mines, 103. 



456 



J^Y CAXADIA.V JOURNAL. 



Quebec, 2. 29, 36, S9. .'•'o, ,.3, ,,6, 
23.), 2J5, 24«, 4'o, 4,X, 42,, 445. 
Quoen Charlottes Islands, 288. 

Rama, 174. 

Red Lake River, ,^4 5. 

Kiver, .,42, ,546, 356, 387, 395. 
Kosiifjouche River, 427, 430. 
Rice Lake, 211. 
Riclinion I, 43S. 
Ridoau 1-alls, 244. 

River, 244. 
Rimouski, 430. 

Riviere du Loup, 5. o, ,«, 122,4.7 
Ri>ckw()..(i I'enitentiar)-, 354. 
Rocky Mouiilains, 261, 362, 

I'lains, 262. 
Rousseau, 177. 
Lake, 176. 



Saf.'ty Ifarbor, 2S2. 

Sje^yKWer,.2,.5,.6s.3,,7.43. 
salt Lake, 265, 317. 

City, 265, 317. 

•'•-•" J>ancisc,,, a'-.S, 3,0, 3,2, :„6. 
Sarnia, 19:;, 196, 2-9, 

Saskatch wan, 381; (}rand Rapids, 

SaultSte. Marie, 17^, .s^, 

Havorna-Ii's Ferry, 305. 

Selkirk, 357. 
•Sevrii, 17^. 
Seynvmr \arr,)vvs, aga. 
Sheband:)\van, 185. 

Lake, 18 i. 
SluTbro ,ke, 435, 44,, 

SIllTIIlUl, 353, 

Shoal Lake, 393. 

S'll^y, .H, 29?, 4,34. 

Silv.T Islet, 184. 

Siincoe, 3 )5. | 

lake, r72. 
Smith's F.ills, 21 ^. 
Spencer Wood, 3, 434. 
Stansie.-id, 443. 
t-^tong r„ii, 379, jno. 



Stratford, 197. 
Superior, Lake, 184. 
Swest.sbonju^li, 447, 
Sydney, 104. 

Tadousac, „. ,4,86, ,22, ,64,355. 
3.56,431. 

Tarrytown, 221. 

Thomas (.>-,t,), 104. 

Thompson River, x^, ^05. 

Thousand Lslands, The, 2i'4. 
I Mile Tree, 264. 

Three Rivers, 432. 

Ihuiider V y, 184, ,87. 

Cape, 1S4. 
Ticonderoj;a, 448, 449. 
Toronto, 37, 42-44, 46, 47, ,7,, 308, 

.U.-i, 324, .127, ,59«, 4iO. 
Tribune liaibor, 28c, 292. 
Trinity Cliff, 165. 
Trois Rivieres, 170. 



j Uintah Range, 264. 

j Vancouver Island, 273. 
Victoria, 273, 284, 289, 296. 

\\'asha),'n, 775. 

Washinj^ton, 223. 

^^'aterford, 205. 

Waterlo(», 446. 

Welland, 205 ; Canal, 306. 

\N'est I'anihani, .(47. 

Whitby, 209; "TrafalRar Castle," 

3IO, 

^^'indsor, 195. 

Winnipeg'. 34.';, .M^, .^8, 353 ; silver 
"••'Klit.s, 359.365,395. 
Lake, 381. 

River, 368, 373. "porfapes,"374; 
" White Ooj; Mi.ssioii," 37, ; rap. 
''^''- 374, 37'' ; the Fall, 374. 
Woodstock, 43, lai, aoj. 



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es. The col- 
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rsl liixN, and 

look at the 



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y, J. D. 
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c season." 



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e rcinark- 
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iircs more 

WhncvtT 
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prnSi^:\J:;;;'^ri['en';nS:ix:";r':;f *:"■ ""•" "--^^-r "'"• -"■-' -- 

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'E ALL. A story of out-door life and adventure 
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<><'^r^-'^^^^^^^^''^^^'^^^^ • • • ■•■"-■ven.u.e, 

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ho^of«hly famJiarwi.h the customs a,,rhab1tsonh.^ Hh^ """"■"' ^"' "'^' -""hor is 

- /mE SMOKE. A story of the Sioux Ind.ans. 
% W n-L.AM O. SroiMMRD. With ,2 full-page Illus.rati,,, s by 
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Previously puhlismei) in same Series 
miVDJW OUT a CRO field. By W.LUAM 
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Otorgia. With SIX Illustrations :»■ E. W. Kfmhie 

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.istr.'iti>ii s by 

Cloud, and 

isenung the 



William 

gbt his way 
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r boys would 

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mSHIPMAN PA ULDING. A true story of the 

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andGEORGK WiiARTO.N Edwards. »vo. Hound in blue cloth, 

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deli)>ht to read it, and will unavoidably remcinbcr ^ main WXMXK^.'—spnugltcid 
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The story is told in a breezy, pleasant style that cm not f^iil to capture the fancy 
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XExv i-niTiox. 

ITTLE JARVIS. The story of the luroic mid- 
shipman of the frijjate "Constellation." I!y .Mol.l.v Ki.iior 
.Skawki.l. With Six full-paoe Illustrations l.y [. O. David- 
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" ritile;.arvis was a iTianly, jolly little midshiom.in on foard the pood ship Ton- 
stelkt.,,n, m the year ,8.»: so full of pranks tlu, he sp.-.u most nf his time in the 
cross-trees and live.l prepare.l for this inevitable fate, with a book in one pocket an I ,a 
piece of hard-.ack m the ,.ther, . . His l.oyish amhitioi, w.-,s to smell powder i.^ "r al 
\l^)^u" -"f.' ^"d/""'!'!" .a hve Iren.h man-of-war. It would he unfair to the re.nder 
with hl"f ■; '■' "f ^."■^■^'•""'"cte,! hitriseir when at length the ' Consteli.ition ' Rrappk-d 
with the frigate 'Vengeance- in dea lly comlmt."— /V,.r7;/,'«,v y,-uy>ml. 

whi:;^n mt it';;:!^.'^^)!::,^^,;;:';!,^"^ •^"'"'^' ^""^ ''"^ «'^"=" "■•= «•-"' 

has there been published a more stiirinR lesson in patrioiism."_A'xi','/.. Beacon. 

" It is what a boy would call ' a real boy's hook.' "-Cha<h,toH News ami Courier. 

.l,-"l.' '"?/,'" J-'" !>""- "'*''';'' '■<'"''<^'l '•'C Pri" of five hiindreil dollars offered by 
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"It is well to multiply such books, that we m.iy awaken in the youth that rea<l 
them the spirit ..fdevorion to duty of which Little I.irvis is a tvpc. We sh.dl some 
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STRAIGHT ON. a .s.ory of a 
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the author of '• The Story of Co- 
lette." With eighty-six Illustra- 
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l2mo. Cloth, $1.50. 

Few books have appeared in recent vfar« 
M appeal so stron^Wy to the better sen, I 
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On. ' It IS a deeply interestinf; novel ot tho 
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be.nf. left an orphan at an early a^e r'e.Ud 

^h Sorfor'r, "'"'^. •■"•""'"''' ^ '"i' tarv 
'--- ^\\»o\ for a term of vears. The nns ind 

downs of his life in the new home incf at 

which pive the book its title-for hi^ ^aM?^"!? *"', ^^""^'"^ '^«' ""^ds- 
tive, culminatinL' in a>, 1,-. ,.f . '"^""' "a'cliword. make an absorbinsr narra- 

!'!> a mystery inVhid n" my .Sts ha^S^^^^^^^^^ ''T ^^f ^^ -hi'elt dears 
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T 



II.LU.STR.VTED EDITION OF " COI ETTE " 
^HE STORY OF COLFTT^ a ' ,' 

edition. With thirty-six Il^frtL^-Svo" ''^^Tr'' 

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and p,quant thoughLs."_C/l,i-4" yS«f? ^' '"" "^ P'"^"-^^' ""ages, quaint figures, 
r^^T^^^^^^^^^^ m s'f ""'' '"^-''"^'^'y P-«y' The 

i'rovuience youmal. innocent yet sighmg gayety of Colette's life."— 

mVrhf/orn™a;j:'''=I,^'rs^-,-;j'/;e^^^^^^ .simplest li„es, .I.c-ougMy pure, and ad- 
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a n-«- phase ,.f Anunr.in life in this book, ai.d has ticatcd it verv 1 iV K, i i,c 
evincma an increase of literary skill. •■_/,•„./<,« //..,.„/^. ^ " ""^ "'''>• '"•^"'" 

QNE REASON WHY. By Beatricf. Whitbv, au- 
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"-nilE SOVEREIGNS AND 

-'■ COCA'/S OF J-UKOPE. The 
Home and Court Life aii.l Character- 
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"I'oi.iTiKos." With many I'<3rtiait 
I2m(). Cloth, ?ii.5o. 

. "A remarkably able liuok. . . . A Rroaldea! of the 
-nn r Instorv ot Kurnpe ,s ,„ be found infhe v.lrk nd u 
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" Its chief merii is ihat it uiws ,, new view of several 
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correspondents who Ke,.cr,,lly trv to , onvey the itnpres" 
sion that they an- on t.rn.s of imimacv witf. royalty •.! 



Specimen Portrait. 

(Kedurcd.) 



SiiH l-raucisco LMroiiulc. 

' I'he anonyinniis author of these 




'ketches 



•IIIE KlNr. OP (iKEErR. 




k,n«s!5^ce;;s'and'Si"'''"^t'"''',"'''' "" "'^'^r f ' ^•""-"■" "^ 'he reiRning 
A„.V,!!::^v',";;;.Z:'' """•■"»••"" •« ^e n,nt,d c,.ndu,sc<l in so small a vol„„,e.•■- 
for^;ed wn;^r.'"l V vlvrf^t'r^;,^ evidently the work of a singnlarly well-in- 



wi.l be valiK'd bj 

Specimen I'ortrajt. (Reduced.) 




Tim rji'i^PN or KNr.i ami. 



• • . A book that woidd cive the truth, the 
whole t'lilb, and nnthinn bi.t the truth (so far as 
such ..oniprthennvcaci iimcy is possible), about 
these exalted personages, so often heard about 
but so seldom seen by ordin.arv mort.ds, «as a 
desideratum, ai d this hook seei'ns »ell fined to 
satisfy the demand. I'he ai.lhor is a well-known 
wnlcroii qtieMionsindicatcil by his pseudonym ' 
—.Ui'ntinii (.iizifff. ' 

" A series of essays and sketches of the 
crowned reads which sum up the charaetcristicj 
of roy.aiy, and >;ive the sali.nt features of the 
hie and nature of m.lividual rulers with an in- 
telhu. lice and considerable weight. "—//<» //.>-rf 
ton I nut, 

•• \ very handy book of reference."— A.iA)« 
/ >vr«.ii n/'f. 

"The historical statements arc cineci, and 
the royal pcrsonaijrs are tr.ated with <lisiriiiiina- 
tion. The aiiei dotes aie numerous and well 
rhogen. I he author's readiiiij must have been 
wide, and his eoinprehension of the present 
political condnion of Knr.ipc is excellent "— 
Ultraty W oilii. 



New York ; D, ALPLETON .<l CO.. i, 3, & j Bond Street. 



IONS. 

impii Portrait. 

Kciiurcd.) 




NO OF CREEf E. 

I of curious infor- 
crtainly in several 
cli furiiislics views 
lian can be fi'iind 

rs of the reiRning 
^ men and women, 
iii< Ki'/ii/i/ic. 
mall a volimie." — 

sinRiilariy wcli-in- 
!• various royalties 
lal csliniate which 

live the truth, ihe 
lie irulh (so far as 
- possihle), about 
>rtcii heard ahout 
rv iniirt.ils, was a 
uns well filled lo 
ir is a well-known 
his pseudonym. " 

sivciches of the 
he charatlerisdcs 
t features of the 
ilers with an in- 
Kht. "— //,i»(/f.»v/ 

n!nce."—/it<tfpn 

are ri ricci, niul 
with (liMriinina- 
iiruns and well 
numt h.i\e lie< n 
(if the iiresciit 
is excallcnt."— 



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A New BooKBf the, author of "A Social Departure." 

N AMERICAN GIRL IN LONDON. hy9,AKK 
jEANN^fTO DCwcAN. With 80 IJlustratiojis by F. il. Towx- 
SEND. lamp. Paper, 75 cenK ; doth, $1.50. ;^ 

A brilliant book, picturing English, sfrhts, society, customs, and amuse- 
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ties which made "A Social Departure" so remarkable a success will make 
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"In iKe tighter litemture of last year there *m nothing more amusing than ' A 
Social Defiarture,' by Sara Jeannette Oiincau, of Canada. It was jiiat Ipng enough- 
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another l>ook in si.nilar style. Well, she ba» done it, and she cout^l not have lakao a 
• better siil^ect than ' As American Girl in London. ' "—New ) ork Htrald. 

"The racinest and breeiine» which made ' A Social Departure,' by the sane au- 
thor, last season, the bost-read and most talked-of book of travel for many a year 
permeates the new lKK>k, and appears between the linis of every page. It U .upei-! 
fluous to say that 'An American Giri' U 'awfully fetching "•-i!r«,i/y« i^ti^ndartl^ 
Umom. 



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SOCIAL DEPARTURE: Hinv Otthoddcia and r 
Went Rownd the World by Ourselves. By Sara JeAn.nktte 
Di;ncAN. Illustrated by F. H. TowNSENU. izmo. Paper, 75 
cents'; clothi $1.75. 

" It is a chttry, imtty, dtforout, charming book,"— A'rw Vori f/eraU, 

" Widely read and praised on both sides of the Athmk and Vacifie, the di,iry U ' 
now republished in New York, with score* of iHustrations which fit the te« eiacUy 
and show the inilid of artist and writer in unis9n."— AVw V,>r* Evuting Voti. 

"- . . It is to be d6Mbled whether another book can be found so thoroughly amua. 
■Ag from beginning to end."— ,«#nVm( /?to//y AdveriSttr. 

"A very bright book on a very entertmmng ^nbj-et. We commend it to thoM 
readen who abbtM' the ordinary stathtical b6ok of WveU. "— fi^j/i-» Jivtning Ttam- 
ltri/>t. _ * 

• "A brighter, merrier, more entirely charming "jook. would be, indeed, difficult to 
fitiA."—St.Lot,uRt^MbUcaH..' 

"For sparkling wit, irreiistibly coatagious fun, keen obsetvit\)n. absolutely poetic 
■ppfeciatidn of natural bmuty, and vivid dew:riptivenes(, i^Wna Mceht rivals- 
Mrs. P. T. Bminuh'I L«t4r to tl^p A'w Kur* rninw. 



New York : D. APPLETON Sc CO., i, 3. & 5 Bond Street 



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T^^f ff^^^^^^^ ^^OK OJ^ POETRY 

^ Edaed by CHARi.ES A. Dana. Entirely newed^L f ' 
new typ.. .ith nearly two hundred addiLnirpo^lr' slH 

ig many shori Poemny-i^iSo« whTV*^"* '" ""* *e"-"naiiged collection 



including manyshori PoemV^y :iutho"« whT"!. '*°''"* '" hi* welUnanged 

Th1."H- "'^ *"«.. authors "gh.^e^rwhom i^ A™!'*^"""' '^?"" "»~ ^''^dr^ 
Ihised.hon gives a Ust of author* a lis. n7.h?^ '^'"*"°^» ""«* fifty-two women 



start 



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